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obi_ant posted:I'm fairly close to the router, no more than 10 feet away. I'm using Smart Connect, so the router is deciding which one is best, does this feature work well? Or should I have botch the 2.4ghz and the 5ghz as separate signals? Do you need 2.4? If not, turn it off. Can you make it a separate 24GHz SSID and just connect your legacy stuff to it or is there a range issue with 5GHz? Otherwise 2.4 must be on 1/6/11 only, anything else is pointless. Force it onto the least congested.
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Aug 16, 2020 00:18
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150mb is probably fine, how is it limiting you?
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Aug 16, 2020 03:52
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H110Hawk posted:Do you need 2.4? If not, turn it off. Can you make it a separate 24GHz SSID and just connect your legacy stuff to it or is there a range issue with 5GHz? Come to think of it, the only thing I connect to with the 2.4ghz is my 3DS. I don't think I have a range issue with the 5ghz , to my knowledge everything connects to it (iPad, iPhone, Macbook etc.) I used to have two signals House2.4 and House5.0 (before I turned on the Smart Connect a year or two ago); do you mean just having the House5.0 on and the House 2.4 completely off? LRADIKAL posted:150mb is probably fine, how is it limiting you? My line of thinking was, I upgraded my service, upgraded the modem, might as well upgrade my router (since it's at least 5 years old at this point). But you're right 150mbps is good for the iPhones and Macbooks (I can always hard-wire if I needed to download something substantial); just thinking I could get stupidly fast speeds over wi-fi would be cool.
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Aug 16, 2020 18:28
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obi_ant posted:Come to think of it, the only thing I connect to with the 2.4ghz is my 3DS. I don't think I have a range issue with the 5ghz , to my knowledge everything connects to it (iPad, iPhone, Macbook etc.) Just go back to this, and name the 2.4 one house-janky so people always hit the right one as guests. Unless you never use your 3ds anymore then yeah turn off 2.4 entirely.
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Aug 16, 2020 18:35
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Those "gaming" routers with the 45 antennas are just gimmicky trash for dummies right?
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Aug 17, 2020 11:37
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I mean, just the word "gaming" adds a $40 premium to anything, but things like beamforming and MIMO are actual IEEE spec features?
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Aug 17, 2020 13:21
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Oysters Autobio posted:Yeah I'll buy a new card, see if that works, and if it doesn't I'll go through the more onerous troubleshooting like a new cable. PC is in a different room from modem/router, so it would require pulling this cable, and running another one instead so if the new card fixes it for $35CDN I'll gladly just use it (yes I'm that lazy). Unfortunately, I installed my new Intel Gigabit ethernet adapter, ran a benchmark on the old adapter and ran another one on the new one and I have no changes in speed. Windows says there aren't any new drivers for this adapter but I doubt it so I'll go and make sure I have the latest but if that doesn't fix it than WTF is going on here? If when I plug in my laptop I'm getting double and triple the speed, and I also got a new ethernet adapter, then what else could be throttling the speeds? If not the cable or the adapter then what??
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Aug 17, 2020 13:31
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Oysters Autobio posted:Unfortunately, I installed my new Intel Gigabit ethernet adapter, ran a benchmark on the old adapter and ran another one on the new one and I have no changes in speed. Windows says there aren't any new drivers for this adapter but I doubt it so I'll go and make sure I have the latest but if that doesn't fix it than WTF is going on here? Do you have antivirus software on your desktop or anything else that might be doing network stuff?
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Aug 17, 2020 13:35
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Rexxed posted:Do you have antivirus software on your desktop or anything else that might be doing network stuff? Nope, I've only been using the built in Windows anti virus. I installed wireshark and glasswire just a few days ago to see if those would help diagnose, but my speed issues have been the same since before. I also uninstalled my password manager's built-in VPN (even though it was turned off) also just in case but also had no effect.
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Aug 17, 2020 13:46
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Are you using a new ethernet cable that you didn't make yourself, and if so, do you have another that you could try?
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Aug 17, 2020 14:26
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sellouts posted:Are you using a new ethernet cable that you didn't make yourself, and if so, do you have another that you could try? It's a fairly new CAT6 cable that I bought a few months ago when I built the PC and had to run it to another room. But again though, I don't understand how it could be the cable because when I plug in the exact same cable to my laptop, it's hitting the top speeds from my ISP. Wouldn't this rule it out?
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Aug 17, 2020 14:41
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Oysters Autobio posted:Unfortunately, I installed my new Intel Gigabit ethernet adapter, ran a benchmark on the old adapter and ran another one on the new one and I have no changes in speed. Windows says there aren't any new drivers for this adapter but I doubt it so I'll go and make sure I have the latest but if that doesn't fix it than WTF is going on here? Sorry, I am jumping into this without knowing 100% of what you tried already, but when you say benchmark, what are you running? Can you check what you have for DNS servers? When you run a benchmark/speedtest, is it running to a relatively local server?
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Aug 17, 2020 15:15
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I don't think the age matters. It can come inoperative or get damaged in shipping/shelving/running it to another room/whatever. I don't think it rules it out at all. Maybe you move it in a different way or it seats a certain way and it doesn't work but when it's used to the laptop it's fine? I have purchased CAT6 cables that don't work. I have purchased more than my fair share of HDMI cables that don't work. It might be exceedingly unlikely but so is this entire problem you're having. I keep a couple extra ethernet cables in case of stuff happening like this so I don't have to pull other cables and rewire stuff. I would literally start with the basics. Unplug power from modem. Take ethernet, plug it in from modem to your PC. Plug in modem, get it connected, plug in PC. Do you get full speed? Ok, then you know that it isn't the cable or the adapter. EDIT: I couldn't tell if you bypassed the router or not or if you physically moved the cables over. sellouts fucked around with this message at 15:24 on Aug 17, 2020 |
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Aug 17, 2020 15:19
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sellouts posted:I don't think the age matters. It can come inoperative or get damaged in shipping/shelving/running it to another room/whatever. This is good advice. Just make sure your PC's firewall is locked down first.
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Aug 17, 2020 15:31
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Yeah, very good point. Don't leave it this way. Do your test and get your answer and shut it down quickly. Also, this should be obvious but make sure you're using the same port on the router. Maybe there's a problem with the port you're plugging into so try a different one. Basically everything free you can physically do is worth trying, just change one thing at a time until you get it working.
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Aug 17, 2020 15:38
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KingKapalone posted:Anyone have experience with the Arris CM8200 as opposed to the SB8200? https://www.ebay.com/itm/ARRIS-CM82...Naxw4r#viTabs_0 Reposting my few questions since I need to order stuff soon before moving next week!
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Aug 17, 2020 20:40
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KingKapalone posted:Reposting my few questions since I need to order stuff soon before moving next week! It seems like there's enough weird stuff in that ebay listing that I would just buy whatever modem is on your cable company's allowed list. As far as networking- maybe you'd be a good candidate for eero? I just purchased the eero pro and 2 beacon kit but I wonder if I should have gotten the 3 eero pros now that I think about it. Mine's being delivered tomorrow so we'll see how it goes. I currently have a Ubiquiti Amplifi HD system and it seems that the mesh station I'm on just stops working. The cable modem seems fine so I'm hoping switching to eero will fix it.
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Aug 17, 2020 21:19
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TheWevel posted:It seems like there's enough weird stuff in that ebay listing that I would just buy whatever modem is on your cable company's allowed list. I'm waiting on the Eero Pro 3-pack to go on sale. If the past is any indication, it should be due soon: https://camelcamelcamel.com/product/B071DWXLYL Debated saying gently caress it and getting the regular Eero, but I figured I'd rather have the third band available. I got a lot of devices and poo poo flying through my network with online school for the kids and whatnot.
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Aug 17, 2020 21:59
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Been meaning to ask, why is eero being recommended, what with being an Amazon subsidiary? I would have thought the touch of Bezos would be a turnoff for a lot of goons.
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Aug 18, 2020 01:21
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TheWevel posted:It seems like there's enough weird stuff in that ebay listing that I would just buy whatever modem is on your cable company's allowed list. Also interesting seeing the eeros mentioned for the same reason SwissArmyDruid brought up. What sort of advanced features they have or customization options? Anyone have anything to say about Motorola MB8600 vs Arris SB8200?
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Aug 18, 2020 04:16
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KingKapalone posted:Anyone have anything to say about Motorola MB8600 vs Arris SB8200?
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Aug 18, 2020 21:23
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Is there a better place than eBay to offload networking equipment specifically? Thinking I might reactivate my account on other FS/FT forums, or try (ugh) Reddit homelab or something like that. Have a 48-port Dell switch I want to unload and my first eBay auction ended like $300 too low.
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Aug 18, 2020 23:41
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H110Hawk posted:Just go back to this, and name the 2.4 one house-janky so people always hit the right one as guests. Unless you never use your 3ds anymore then yeah turn off 2.4 entirely. Update: Thanks for the advice. This is what I ended up doing and for some reason I seem to have gained 50mbps? Maybe it's in my head or the traffic around me. On a completely different note, I'm looking at my in-laws's router and they seem to have three signals being pushed, 2.4Ghz, 5Ghz-1 and 5Ghz2. I turned off the 2.4Ghz. I assume the two 5Ghz is for the signal to be on two different channels?
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Aug 19, 2020 17:42
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Have you tried naming them all the same thing with the same password? A 2.4 GHz AP can be really handy for outdoor penetration or working in 5ghz dead spots. Use the wifiman app to analyze the channels.
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Aug 19, 2020 18:01
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LRADIKAL posted:Have you tried naming them all the same thing with the same password? A 2.4 GHz AP can be really handy for outdoor penetration or working in 5ghz dead spots. Use the wifiman app to analyze the channels. I have not tried naming them the same. I assume this would get rid of the different signals? They don't have anything in the house aside from their iPhones and iPads, that is why I disabled the 2.4GHz.
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Aug 19, 2020 19:14
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Ah poo poo, Best Buy has a 10% off one item during the month of your birthday. Now the great debate is to use it on a $500 Eero Pro 3-pack for $449 with Friday delivery, or wait for the potential $100 markdown via Amazon (currently out of stock and earliest delivery in 10 days). https://camelcamelcamel.com/product/B071DWXLYL
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Aug 19, 2020 23:32
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obi_ant posted:I have not tried naming them the same. I assume this would get rid of the different signals? It would get rid of having to choose which band or AP to use. Phones and whatnot generally do a pretty good job using the best signal. That's not a good reason to disable your 2.4ghz AP, though. Give them all the same SSID and password, and you should be good to go.
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Aug 20, 2020 00:40
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obi_ant posted:Update: Thanks for the advice. This is what I ended up doing and for some reason I seem to have gained 50mbps? Maybe it's in my head or the traffic around me. One could be G/N and the other AC. hard to know without looking. Mac's make it easy if you have one. Join each one and option-click the wifi icon. LRADIKAL posted:It would get rid of having to choose which band or AP to use. Phones and whatnot generally do a pretty good job using the best signal. This is literally what the issue was before and is generally terrible advice if you can avoid it. Devices will lock onto whatever happens to beacon next and not roam unless coerced.
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Aug 21, 2020 22:22
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Quarantine has pushed me into moving back in with my parents for a bit and I am trying to understand the weird networking situation here and why it would be set up this way. There's terrible issues with random slowdowns, disconnects, huge dead spaces, and stuttering throughout the day. My dad swears up and down that a corporate IT guy he knows set it up for him and he got very offended when I suggested that it might not be optimal. Here is the setup as I understand it: Xfinity-provided combo modem+router that he refuses to let me take a look at (it's in a storeroom he keeps locked) -> Asus AC3200 router in bridge mode 5 wireless networks are currently broadcasting. 2 from the combo modem+router, 3 from the Asus router. All of them have different names. Because the Asus router is in bridge mode and because all of its networks have different names, band steering/smart connect is not enabled. 4 people living at home using wifi heavily for work video calls, simultaneous movie streaming, etc. My thought is that the lovely combo modem/router is the source of a lot of our issues. My suggestion to him was to disable the router/wireless networks on the combo modem/router so that it only functions as a modem, take the AC3200 out of bridge mode and have it operate as a normal router, and rename all 3 of its networks the same thing so that smart connect can work. He got red in the face huffing and puffing about how dare I say I know better than the "expert" he hired. So I turn to the experts here so that maybe I can have some backup: was my suggestion better than the current setup? What would you do differently?
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Aug 22, 2020 02:53
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So maybe it’s this. Router 1 has , 1 5ghz , 1 2.4 ghz Router 2 has 1 5 ghz , 1 2.4 ghz , 1 guest network That’s my take on why there are 5 different ones. If both routers are in the same place only one of them needs to be broadcasting. Unless I’m reading that wrong.
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Aug 22, 2020 03:30
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This is not a fight worth having. Abandon hope. Bust your rear end to get out. If someone is red in the face yelling and locking a door refusing to let you see something it's not a good idea to poke that hornets nest. Do they make bridged wifi extenders which join an existing network then broadcast their own ssid? Buy that in secret, hook it up with a hidden ssid, profit. Post a wifi site survey from your computer. Please. It's going to be a poo poo show.
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Aug 22, 2020 03:30
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Oysters Autobio posted:Hey all, I posted this tech support question but I wanted to see if anyone could guide me in the right direction for further troubleshooting. Basically, on a direct connection to my modem (no router) via CAT6 ethernet, when I use my laptop I get the 250mpbs download speeds that are on my plan, but when I connect to my PC I get anywhere between 50 - 90 mbps. Other than drivers, what else should I be looking for? What could be throttling the speed that badly that originates only from my PC? Just wanted to follow up to hopefully a conclusion to this one, thanks to everyone for the help and troubleshooting. Knowing it was going to be something so obvious and stupid, it sounds like the problem is my router's ethernet ports are only rated for 100mpbs. I just assumed that because the wifi itself is rated high enough, that obviously the ports would be just as high right? So I'm buying a gigabit router with ethernet ports that are fast enough for my speed. If I still have problems I'll be back but this sounds like the most obvious one.
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Aug 22, 2020 03:59
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Don't feel bad about missing that, I don't think anyone would have thought that a modern AC capable router would be sold with 10/100 ports and not gigabit ports. Like that doesn't even make sense to me. Gigabit would maybe cost them 2 more dollars in parts.
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Aug 22, 2020 05:13
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There's some stuff I wonder might be faster if I just connect my Windows 10 machine directly to my Macbook via an ethernet cable (file sharing, Parsec streaming), but still having both machines continue to connect to the household WiFi for everything internet-related. I've only ever connected machines together via a router, never plugged in directly to each other with a single cable. Is there a reasonably simple way to get these two talking to each other directly?
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Aug 24, 2020 13:26
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Plug a cable from computer to computer, set a static IP in the same range on both of them. Gigabit is auto-mdix so you don’t have to worry about a crossover cable.
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Aug 24, 2020 15:48
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Static IPs on both but a different subnet than your main network. So if your WiFi is 192.168.0.0, use 10.0.0.0 or 172.16.0.0. That will avoid routing conflicts.
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Aug 24, 2020 16:01
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If you just plug them into each other then the APIPA addresses should end up in the same subnet
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Aug 24, 2020 16:53
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H110Hawk posted:This is not a fight worth having. Abandon hope. Bust your rear end to get out. If someone is red in the face yelling and locking a door refusing to let you see something it's not a good idea to poke that hornets nest. Well the door is locked because the gun cabinet (which is also locked) is in the room where the modem is. He does have a temper though especially when he feels he's being "disrespected" (he has a bad case of boomer brain). The wifi site survey isn't that interesting as it shows exactly what you would expect--the channels of the combo modem/router are exactly what the channels are for the dedicated router.
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Aug 24, 2020 16:56
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Feel free to tell me to gently caress off or whatever but have you spoken with your mother at all? I really doubt if this guy is an abusive prick that he limits it to just you.
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Aug 24, 2020 17:13
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Rosalind posted:Well the door is locked because the gun cabinet (which is also locked) is in the room where the modem is. He does have a temper though especially when he feels he's being "disrespected" (he has a bad case of boomer brain). So this isn't improving my opinion here. You should just focus on escaping.
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Aug 24, 2020 18:02
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