|
bEatmstrJ posted:I have a new dust collector I'm looking to hook up in my garage. The dust collector has the following power requirements: You shouldn't be running 20A over 14/2 to begin with, ever. ref: NEC 240.4(D)(3). You can swap it to a 15A two pole and run it without a neutral by taping the neutral red or you can pull new wire if you need a neutral or want 20A. corgski fucked around with this message at 21:10 on Aug 25, 2020 |
#
?
Aug 25, 2020 21:08
|
|
|
|
| # ? May 23, 2024 17:18 |
|
|
corgski posted:You shouldn't be running 20A over 14/2 to begin with, ever. ref: NEC 240.4(D)(3). You can swap it to a 15A two pole and run it without a neutral by taping the neutral red or you can pull new wire if you need a neutral or want 20A. How do you just completely miss an opportunity to have him post pictures of the inside of his house
|
|
#
?
Aug 25, 2020 21:21
|
|
|
is the toilet wired with 14ga
|
|
#
?
Aug 25, 2020 21:23
|
|
|
angryrobots posted:How do you just completely miss an opportunity to have him post pictures of the inside of his house Shame on me for not looking at usernames. 
|
|
#
?
Aug 25, 2020 21:25
|
|
|
I’ve been slowly adding a new gfci circuit to the garage, running an outlet as I have time. I realized this weekend that I could easily add an outdoor outlet next to the garage exit door for $20 in parts, which would be very handy since I haul the table saw/router outside to make cleanup easier. I also replaced the motion lamp, the old one was falling apart and had water inside the housing. Two more outlets and I’ll be done with the circuit then I can tie it in to the panel.
|
|
#
?
Aug 25, 2020 21:27
|
|
|
angryrobots posted:How do you just completely miss an opportunity to have him post pictures of the inside of his house It's less exciting than you want to believe.
|
|
#
?
Aug 25, 2020 22:14
|
|
|
bEatmstrJ posted:It's less exciting than you want to believe. You need a dedicated circuit for the motor for that dust collector, if you're going with a dedicated circuit I'd wire if with a 240V 15A 14ga line, that's the easiest way. You need a 10ga, 30 amp circuit if you want to go with 120V, I don't see an upside to doing it this way. Also gently caress that Electrician, he should have his license revoked.
|
|
#
?
Aug 26, 2020 01:25
|
|
|
Leperflesh posted:is the toilet wired with 14ga No, but the heated bidet is!
|
|
#
?
Aug 26, 2020 18:56
|
|
|
I don't care what anybody thinks, I love my tepid taint tickler and running an outlet for it was priority #3, right after replacing the ancient carpet and redoing the electrical in my living room in my new house. Fake Edit: In retrospect it should have been #2.
|
|
#
?
Aug 26, 2020 19:15
|
|
|
Elviscat posted:You need a dedicated circuit for the motor for that dust collector, if you're going with a dedicated circuit I'd wire if with a 240V 15A 14ga line, that's the easiest way. Well after learning that there is a control board conversion kit required to change my dust collector from 110v to 220v which is A) Over $150 and B) back-ordered, I've opted to instead just run new 10/2 wiring and use a 30amp 110v circuit breaker instead. The run is >50ft and mostly in conduit so it shouldn't be too hard. And i'm hoping i'll be able to use the old wiring to pull the new wiring through the short section of wall so I don't have to cut any holes. I'll probably rip out the other section of 14/2 wiring at the same time and swap it out with 12/2 for sanity since it follows the same path.
|
|
#
?
Aug 26, 2020 21:17
|
|
|
What "other section of 14/2 wiring"? Edit - just verifying that you're talking about a different circuit than the dedicated dust collector. angryrobots fucked around with this message at 21:28 on Aug 26, 2020 |
|
#
?
Aug 26, 2020 21:25
|
|
|
Any 14/2 that isn't on a 15A needs to be put on a 15A or replaced, yes. Leaving it as-is is not an option.
|
|
#
?
Aug 26, 2020 21:33
|
|
|
angryrobots posted:What "other section of 14/2 wiring"? Yeah should have clarified. Two separate "20amp" circuits were installed at the same time following the same path. Gonna replace it all since I have to use the same conduit for the new cable anyway.
|
|
#
?
Aug 27, 2020 02:12
|
|
|
bEatmstrJ posted:Well after learning that there is a control board conversion kit required to change my dust collector from 110v to 220v which is A) Over $150 and B) back-ordered, I've opted to instead just run new 10/2 wiring and use a 30amp 110v circuit breaker instead. The run is >50ft and mostly in conduit so it shouldn't be too hard. Uh oh, you've opened Pandora's box if you're planning on pulling 10/2 NM through conduit. I doubt your conduit is large enough to allow that fill, in theory. To do it technically right, transition to 10ga THHN in the conduit.
|
|
#
?
Aug 27, 2020 02:31
|
|
|
B-Nasty posted:Uh oh, you've opened Pandora's box if you're planning on pulling 10/2 NM through conduit. I doubt your conduit is large enough to allow that fill, in theory. No, it's perfectly *heave* fine *yank* to stuff that much copper through *strain* a conduit sized for 14ga *my fish tape snaps in half and smacks me in the face* Also what the hell fly by night idiot tells someone 14/2 is fine for 20A and then fishes nm through conduit too.
|
|
#
?
Aug 27, 2020 03:37
|
|
|
It's grody, but using conduit as mechanical protection for NM is perfectly acceptable (334.15 (B)), I've done it when we were just doing someones garage and didn't want to break out the 'ol THHN rack. I don't recommend fishing 2x 12-2NM/B and 1x 10-2 NM/B through a 1/2" conduit though, also you don't meet wire fill requirements if you do, and you have an excellent chance of damaging a cable. You could do 3x #12 THHN (one white, two colored) and 3x #10 THHN (one each white, black, and green/bare) and (barely) meet wire fill. Best way would be to run a new conduit to your dust collector, or fish NM around to a wall outlet. And yeah, dunno what kinda jank rear end electrician runs 14 gauge for a shop, then fuses it at 20A, was he actually licensed?
|
|
#
?
Aug 27, 2020 04:09
|
|
|
Elviscat posted:It's grody, but using conduit as mechanical protection for NM is perfectly acceptable (334.15 (B)), I've done it when we were just doing someones garage and didn't want to break out the 'ol THHN rack. He was a commerical electrician doing a side job for me, so it wasn't "licensed work", but should still have followed code. I wasn't too thrilled but the price was right so it was hard to complain. It won't be too hard to replace so it's not a big deal. I'll be stuffing 1x 12/2 and 1x 10/2 into a 3/4" conduit, and the 10/2 will continue on it's own through a 1/2" conduit. I'm thinking both of these are within fill specs.
|
|
#
?
Aug 27, 2020 04:36
|
|
|
That's.... fine, it's not what a professional would do but w/e. Note: the conduit must be grounded by the ground wire on the #10, so make sure that ties in to a metal box or something somewhere. E: lol, didn't notice the irony of it being much better than the professional who installed the original when I posted that Does either conduit have bends? If so have fun getting those cables around them. Elviscat fucked around with this message at 05:31 on Aug 27, 2020 |
|
#
?
Aug 27, 2020 05:25
|
|
|
bEatmstrJ posted:He was a commerical electrician doing a side job for me, so it wasn't "licensed work", but should still have followed code. I wasn't too thrilled but the price was right so it was hard to complain. It won't be too hard to replace so it's not a big deal. Er, if he was a licensed electrician doing electrical work for money, it was "licensed work." "Not permitted work" is the phrase I think you're looking for, because no inspector would have signed off on that. Around here, pulling a new circuit requires both a permit and a licensed electrician. And the precise reason is because some idiot is running around putting 14AWG on 20A circuits. It's bad enough that homeowners do janky electrical poo poo, but a professional? Dude could have burned your house down.
|
|
#
?
Aug 27, 2020 12:43
|
|
|
Some rear end in a top hat emptied out my WAGO connector boxes and filled them with old wire nuts. They didn't even sort them either.
|
|
#
?
Aug 27, 2020 16:03
|
|
|
kid sinister posted:No, but the heated bidet is! Speaking of which, I'm looking at getting a bidet toilet seat...If a model isn't listed by a NRTL, is that a good reason to get something else? The models by alpha seem well priced, but as far as I can tell none of them are ETL/UL/Whatever listed unlike some other brands like brondell. Edit: looks like they're listed under their actual manufacturers, in this case LS Daewon gwrtheyrn fucked around with this message at 06:56 on Aug 28, 2020 |
|
#
?
Aug 27, 2020 19:23
|
|
|
DIY secret santa maybe?
|
|
#
?
Aug 28, 2020 00:36
|
|
|
Any recommendations for surface mount raceway that doesn't suck rear end / fall apart? Looking to cover up my garage sensor wires (tiny) and then a single Cat6 cable to an AP on the ceiling in the garage (I'll probably end in a surface mount box, or be lazy and just run a stranded cable because it's not in wall) — so it'll be upside down. There's tons of choices, but I figured I'd check for personal experience with non-poo poo brands.
|
|
#
?
Aug 28, 2020 02:46
|
|
|
EMT, or if you're feeling fancy, Rigid. Seriously it all sucks, genuine metal wiremould holds up and is paintable at least. I think conduit looks better, I know most people don't agree with me.
|
|
#
?
Aug 28, 2020 03:19
|
|
|
Elviscat posted:EMT, or if you're feeling fancy, Rigid. The garage is finished right now, but on one of the walls, it's all concrete so any outlets and stuff I add will need metal conduit (FMC) run anyways. So you're suggesting just do conduit + pipe clamps along the ceiling? What's the grey conduit stuff I see around sometimes that isn't the usual FMC? (Just thinking about putting a long metal run near a WiFi antenna and torching performance). (Also to be clear, everything is going to be low-voltage — there's already an AC outlet on the ceiling for the garage opener)
|
|
#
?
Aug 28, 2020 03:23
|
|
|
God the outlets aren’t STILL electrified are they?
|
|
#
?
Aug 28, 2020 03:26
|
|
|
That's schedule 40 PVC conduit, that'd work just fine, it likes to sag though, so if you use it on a ceiling strap the heck out of it, it is super easy to work with, and provides surprisingly good mechanical protection.
|
|
#
?
Aug 28, 2020 03:26
|
|
|
Elviscat posted:That's schedule 40 PVC conduit, that'd work just fine, it likes to sag though, so if you use it on a ceiling strap the heck out of it, it is super easy to work with, and provides surprisingly good mechanical protection. Bathroom goon dude basically made joist a trigger word for me, but I don't think they'll mind some small holes attaching clamps / straps to support the conduit.
|
|
#
?
Aug 28, 2020 03:28
|
|
|
movax posted:Any recommendations for surface mount raceway that doesn't suck rear end / fall apart? Looking to cover up my garage sensor wires (tiny) and then a single Cat6 cable to an AP on the ceiling in the garage (I'll probably end in a surface mount box, or be lazy and just run a stranded cable because it's not in wall) — so it'll be upside down. Real-deal metal WireMold (r) (tm) (c) surface channel. Stuff looks really good; especially with the prefabricated corner pieces installed. A bit of paint on it afterwords and it blends right in.
|
|
#
?
Aug 28, 2020 12:59
|
|
|
ncumbered_by_idgits posted:God the outlets aren’t STILL electrified are they? no splendid is still alive and not showering with gloves last I heard.. but it's been awhile
|
|
#
?
Aug 28, 2020 17:02
|
|
|
I'm afraid we will never know what truly happened in splendid's old apartment
|
|
#
?
Aug 28, 2020 20:16
|
|
|
Got a question about getting power to a wall mount TV in a code compliant way. After nearly 2 years in our current house I finally bought a new TV I want to go through the trouble of wall mounting. The previous owners already had someone install a behind the TV outlet where its going but the problem is I want to hook up the TV to a double conversion UPS, which obviously won't fit behind the TV. So, having a regular power outlet at the TV doesn't help me, I need to get power from a UPS at a built-in entertainment cabinet 10 feet away to the TV, through the wall. Obviously just running an extension cord in the wall along the same path as the HDMI cables is a code violation but is it true I can functionally do the same thing by plugging a short extension into the UPS, plugging that into an "inlet" outlet like the one below, which is in turn connected via an NM cable in the wall to a regular outlet behind the TV? If so do they make interior "inlet" outlets? All the ones I seem to be finding look like they're meant for outdoor use and wouldn't mount to a typical electrical box. https://www.amazon.com/Solo-Lights-Convenience-Electrical-Resistant/dp/B07HKNWNVN
|
|
#
?
Aug 29, 2020 03:27
|
|
|
You're correct that an inlet can be used - https://www.electricallicenserenewal.com/Electrical-Continuing-Education-Courses/NEC-Content.php?sectionID=111.0 Here's a sample product that would work for this: https://www.monoprice.com/product?p_id=4652 Keep in mind you'll have to get a split box so the low voltage opening is separated from the line voltage connections.
|
|
#
?
Aug 29, 2020 03:36
|
|
|
That's a pretty nice solution. It's going to confuse whoever buys your house soooooo bad tho.
|
|
#
?
Aug 29, 2020 05:47
|
|
|
I used a kit like that when I put the living room tv on the wall, it worked really well.  
devmd01 fucked around with this message at 12:44 on Aug 29, 2020 |
|
#
?
Aug 29, 2020 12:32
|
|
|
I just can't leave well enough alone: I want to get a clamp multimeter to measure the starting current of my aircon compressor. Will the Harbor Freight 600A unit suffice? Anything comparable I should look at?
|
|
#
?
Aug 29, 2020 14:25
|
|
|
Elem7 posted:Got a question about getting power to a wall mount TV in a code compliant way. I just installed this in my place, and it's great. Echogear in-wall TV and sound bar wire kit
|
|
#
?
Aug 29, 2020 14:37
|
|
|
Yah I had seen some of those all-in-one kits already and the ones I saw all had chintzy and far to short in-wall cables in the kit, plus, I mean, $99 for that? Ended up finding an inlet outlet that's still 10x what a regular outlet costs but, better than 50x. Thanks for confirming I can do the same myself with regular NM.
|
|
#
?
Aug 29, 2020 18:44
|
|
|
Skinnymansbeerbelly posted:I just can't leave well enough alone: I want to get a clamp multimeter to measure the starting current of my aircon compressor. Will the Harbor Freight 600A unit suffice? Anything comparable I should look at? Should work fine. Make sure you get one that does inrush current, I think they have some that don't.
|
|
#
?
Aug 29, 2020 19:21
|
|
|
|
| # ? May 23, 2024 17:18 |
|
|
What's the best cheapish regular multimeter to buy?
|
|
#
?
Aug 31, 2020 04:47
|
|
