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Electric Hobo
Oct 22, 2008

What a view!

Grimey Drawer
24 point of Poxwalkers ready for my Kill Team! Who the hell decided that such crap units should be covered in details?







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Winklebottom
Dec 19, 2007

Took a break from Warhammer to paint a Discworld metal figure. It was almost therapeutic to paint something not covered in 3000 details.

DiHK
Feb 4, 2013

by Azathoth

tangy yet delightful posted:

And thanks, a youtube video said to put silver and then the Spiritstone red but I tried that versus a Mephiston red base coat and went with the red, seems to be more gem like to me.

I wholly agree. I've been using tamiya clear on silver for my gem stones and found that the GW Spiritstone on silver is a wee bit inferior to the Tamiya. On red though, well, those are nice stones.

AndyElusive
Jan 7, 2007

Fyrbrand posted:

Some more Marvel Crisis Protocol stuff I've done the past few months:









I get to paint infrequently at best anymore, but feels good to make progress at least.

Crisis Protocol looks loving cool as hell and so do these paint jobs.

Nebalebadingdong
Jun 30, 2005

i made a video game.
why not give it a try!?
more 10mm wood elves



Misty Fog
Aug 18, 2020

Seldom Posts posted:

I find the vallejo blacks cover pretty well. I use the metallic air black and it's great. Have also heard good things about the GW contrast black.

The GW contrast black is excellent, it gives a super nice finish for black armour, I use it for all of my black legion chaos. Just abaddon or vallejo makes it slightly glossy, the contrast is exceptionally matte and looks amazing.

Professor Shark
May 22, 2012

These guys still have a bit more work to go, however I'm done for the day (I think) and was so excited about how they're turning out that I had to get some pictures of them:







LifeLynx
Feb 27, 2001

Dang so this is like looking over his shoulder in real-time
Grimey Drawer
For my Thousand Sons I'm planning on painting Talassar Blue Contrast paint over a silver base. I've seen some pictures of people who have done that and it looks amazing. But what silver spray should I spray on them? I don't own an airbrush. Should I prime them grey and then get a spray can of silver and spray them after the primer dries? Or would that hide the details? Also what silver spray is recommended? I've always used Army Painter primers, but they don't seem to have a silver bright enough.

Spanish Manlove
Aug 31, 2008

HAILGAYSATAN
If it's gonna be on +50% of the model and I don't give a poo poo about splashing it on other things that are gonna get covered up with other colors: use a drybrush

Sab669
Sep 24, 2009

I primed my Stormcast Eternals with Army Painter's Plate Mail spray and used the Ork Flesh contrast (or whatever is called) and it worked great. I assume the blue you're using should be just fine that way, too.

Big Bad Beetleborg
Apr 8, 2007

Things may come to those who wait...but only the things left by those who hustle.

I picked up the Warcry starter set a few weeks back and gave the Iron Golems to a mate who was looking to get back into this, but he's been hit with a huge vet bill and is strapped for cash.

His birthday is coming up and I know the GW tools are a rort generally, but how does the value of the AoS paint & tool set stack up? Afaict it's still cheaper than buying all the paints individually, even if some may be smaller, and you get a free brush & nippers?

Eej
Jun 17, 2007

HEAVYARMS
It's 13 paints in there and each one is about $4.55 - $6.10 USD individually for a 12mL pot so even lowballing it to $4.55 for every pot you're looking at $59.15 in paints for $40 in addition to $18 mould line remover, a maybe ~$6 brush and the nippers aren't sold on the GW store (the ones they have seem a lot heavier duty) so we'll just say $10.

Pretty good deal no wonder it's sold out

moths
Aug 25, 2004

I would also still appreciate some danger.



Are they full sized pots or those weird baby starters?

Eej
Jun 17, 2007

HEAVYARMS
According to this listing at Miniature Market:

quote:

Contents:
Clippers
Mouldline Remove
Starter Brush
13 Paints (12ml)
‣ Retributor Amour
‣ Abaddon Black
‣ Armageddon Dust
‣ Kantor Blue
‣ Khorne Red
‣ Nighthaunt Gloom
‣ Rakarth Flesh
‣ Bugman's Glow
‣ Reikland Fleshshade
‣ White Scar
‣ Leadbelcher
‣ Mournfang Brown
‣ Celestra Grey

So yeah it's kind of a steal for starting out

Paragon8
Feb 19, 2007

Big Bad Beetleborg posted:

I picked up the Warcry starter set a few weeks back and gave the Iron Golems to a mate who was looking to get back into this, but he's been hit with a huge vet bill and is strapped for cash.

His birthday is coming up and I know the GW tools are a rort generally, but how does the value of the AoS paint & tool set stack up? Afaict it's still cheaper than buying all the paints individually, even if some may be smaller, and you get a free brush & nippers?

I actually started my paint collection with this very set. The paints are good value! You get the shade and the texture in the 12ml pot. White Scar is probably the only outright awful paint. The mould line remover is good and I still use. The nippers and brush are pretty awful but they're essentially free.

darnon
Nov 8, 2009
The clippers are decent Xuron-clone fare and the mold-line remover is just the one they sell separately without the handle. I used some moldable thermoplastic to form a proper handle and it works good.

Big Bad Beetleborg
Apr 8, 2007

Things may come to those who wait...but only the things left by those who hustle.

I picked a set up, thanks for the advice!

Professor Shark
May 22, 2012

moths posted:

Are they full sized pots or those weird baby starters?

12ml is full sized, regular versions

Dreylad
Jun 19, 2001
I'm starting up painting again (did a terrible job trying to zenithel highlight some models but I'm sure I'll get better). I have the Vallejo basic Game Colour set, but I also have a lot of old paints from 10-20 years back. Some of the lovely GW pots that are mostly dead, but a few of the really old ones that still seem okay. Also some more recent (but still older) Vallejo pots that might be okay. I've got some ball bearings that I can toss in to try to resuscitate some of them. Does anyone do anything else besides that with old paints? Would adding some matte medium help?

KozmoNaut
Apr 23, 2008

Happiness is a warm
Turbo Plasma Rifle


Dreylad posted:

Does anyone do anything else besides that with old paints? Would adding some matte medium help?

Matte medium would dilute the color and not really thin the consistency much, if at all.

If the paints are too thick, I would try glaze medium (Vallejo's is a mix of matte medium, thinner and drying retarder) or simply a bit of thinner. In a pinch, just a bit of water usually works fine.

MRLOLAST
May 9, 2013
Yeah I got that set and the only color I don't use regular is the dark/green.

Fyrbrand
Dec 30, 2002

Grimey Drawer
Painted Boomhowler, Solo Artist. Model for Riot Quest and also WMH (does double duty like all RQ stuff).



Spanish Manlove
Aug 31, 2008

HAILGAYSATAN
Hell yeah hand painted plaid

Nebalebadingdong
Jun 30, 2005

i made a video game.
why not give it a try!?

Fyrbrand posted:

Painted Boomhowler, Solo Artist. Model for Riot Quest and also WMH (does double duty like all RQ stuff).





nice work! love to see textures and patterns

Dreylad
Jun 19, 2001

KozmoNaut posted:

Matte medium would dilute the color and not really thin the consistency much, if at all.

If the paints are too thick, I would try glaze medium (Vallejo's is a mix of matte medium, thinner and drying retarder) or simply a bit of thinner. In a pinch, just a bit of water usually works fine.

Perfect, thanks! I got some glaze medium because I was interested in trying underpainting/glazing instead of the traditional layer-shade-highlight. There's a lot to learn since I stopped painting so long ago. My last few models I was just starting to understand shading and trying mixing colours for highlights. Mostly was still priming everything in white, not thinning my paints, and not really knowing what washes/highlights were.

Phi230
Feb 2, 2016

by Fluffdaddy
Does anybody have any advice on developing a color scheme for pale blue or pale grey flesh? I'm trying to paint a pair ghouls and I want their skin to be a light, pallid kind of grey-blue or just cold grey. I'm still trying to get a hang of making my own color schemes so any help on this front would be appreciated.

Also does anyone have any good resources on how to use Winsor + Newton Glaze Medium? Its very thick, should I add like water or flow improver to it?

How should I thin and subsequently highlight metallic paints?

Count Thrashula
Jun 1, 2003

Death is nothing compared to vindication.
Buglord
What would a 40k collection be without at least one boring rear end Ultramarine?

This one was free from my local Warham shop so it was an easy way to spend a lunch break.

KozmoNaut
Apr 23, 2008

Happiness is a warm
Turbo Plasma Rifle


Dreylad posted:

Perfect, thanks! I got some glaze medium because I was interested in trying underpainting/glazing instead of the traditional layer-shade-highlight.

That's exactly how I learned about how glaze medium works :)

Dreylad
Jun 19, 2001

KozmoNaut posted:

That's exactly how I learned about how glaze medium works :)

Yeah, I've got to say I really enjoy blocking in my highlights and shading first -- something about that process is really chill and fun, probably because I struggle to identify where my highlights should be when applying them after a base colour. Being able to apply thin coats of colour afterwards while maintaining the highlights and shading already locked in is pretty cool. Not to mention how easy it is to blend colours on the model.

My only problem is I'm still trying to figure out the right ratio of paint to glaze medium -- I've had some attempts that have the paint act more like a wash and make it difficult to control.

Eej
Jun 17, 2007

HEAVYARMS
Consider investing in Zenithal Priming if you want to know how light falls on your model!

Nebalebadingdong
Jun 30, 2005

i made a video game.
why not give it a try!?
adding some more dungeon stuff

hero quest cupboard, with frostgrave bits attached to the top



giant flies from northstar

tangy yet delightful
Sep 13, 2005



loving hell that woodgrain

Nebalebadingdong
Jun 30, 2005

i made a video game.
why not give it a try!?
the bottom piece with the doors is a cardboard punch out just so everyone knows lol, i didn't paint that

tangy yet delightful
Sep 13, 2005



hah well still impressive but now that you say that I can see the difference taking another look

Max Wilco
Jan 23, 2012

I'm just trying to go through life without looking stupid.

It's not working out too well...
So in my quest to get all the stuff needed for an airbrush, I screwed up a bit. I bought this hose from Amazon, but I found out it isn't actually capable of connecting to the airbrush (the Patriot 105) itself (looking at the hose listing again, I think they forgot to include a couple of the connectors).

My plan now is to order the Badger branded airbrush hose, since I can't seem to find any definitive info on any other adapters there might be for the Patriot 105. I still haven't gotten a compressor yet. I thought about trying to modify the shop compressor with a moisture trap, but I feel like that would be more of a hassle than its worth.

Is there an adapter out there for the Patriot 105 that I'm just not seeing? The Badger airhose is like $30, and I'm not super keen on spending that much if I can find an adapter to fit the hose I already have.

Eej
Jun 17, 2007

HEAVYARMS
Apologies for the Canadian links but I'm just grabbing links from my Amazon invoice

Badger 105: https://www.amazon.ca/dp/B002W84GTO/ref=pe_41291580_475835250_TE_dp_1

Compressor with 1/8" hose: https://www.amazon.ca/dp/B07HXN2V5B/ref=pe_41291580_475835250_TE_dp_1

Badger to Iwata (1/8") adapter: https://www.amazon.ca/dp/B004RM2DIO/ref=pe_41291580_475835250_TE_dp_1

That's all you need (I'm grabbing a quick release adapter cause convenience and I'm pretty sure putting down by airbrush with hose attached still feels like asking for trouble)

Cthulu Carl
Apr 16, 2006

Max Wilco posted:

So in my quest to get all the stuff needed for an airbrush, I screwed up a bit. I bought this hose from Amazon, but I found out it isn't actually capable of connecting to the airbrush (the Patriot 105) itself (looking at the hose listing again, I think they forgot to include a couple of the connectors).

My plan now is to order the Badger branded airbrush hose, since I can't seem to find any definitive info on any other adapters there might be for the Patriot 105. I still haven't gotten a compressor yet. I thought about trying to modify the shop compressor with a moisture trap, but I feel like that would be more of a hassle than its worth.

Is there an adapter out there for the Patriot 105 that I'm just not seeing? The Badger airhose is like $30, and I'm not super keen on spending that much if I can find an adapter to fit the hose I already have.

I use one of these to connect my Badger's hose to the compressor

Ignite Memories
Feb 27, 2005

Nebalebadingdong posted:

adding some more dungeon stuff

hero quest cupboard, with frostgrave bits attached to the top



giant flies from northstar



Dreylad
Jun 19, 2001

Eej posted:

Consider investing in Zenithal Priming if you want to know how light falls on your model!

Oh yeah, already done and practicing, it's an important part of underpainting. I just get lost if I add my base layers and lose that highlight and shading, even when I take pictures of some of the models.

One thing I'm excited about with these new models is they're just bigger than the old fantasy models, both in terms of the actual model size and the base. A lot more to paint, but a lot more forgiving on details.

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Eej
Jun 17, 2007

HEAVYARMS
If you're army painting you can leave one model just with the zenithal priming on as a reference you can rotate and move around while you do everyone else. Then when you're done all the others you can use the completed ones as the reference for your last model.

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