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GoGoGadgetChris
Mar 18, 2010

i powder a
granite monument
in a soundless flash

showering the grass
with molten drops of
its gold inlay

sending smoking
chips of stone
skipping into the fog

GoGoGadgetChris posted:

New roof time!



This 1981-original cedar shake roof is coming off and a presidential asphalt shingle is taking its place. I need to pick a color. Should I try and replicate the copper color of the cedar or should I just go for a universal black? The house will probably get painted a different color at some point too so it'd be nice for the roof to be a flexible color to work with.

Leperflesh posted:

White is massively more energy-efficient.

e. in hotter/sunnier climates of course, but IIRC you're in California, right?


Portland, Oregon. Daytime temperatures are almost always between 45 and 65 with a few days above 85 and a few below 35 every year.

Looks like charcoal is the official color of the region, which makes sense for wanting more heat most of the time.

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DaveSauce
Feb 15, 2004

Oh, how awkward.

Leperflesh posted:

White is massively more energy-efficient.

e. in hotter/sunnier climates of course, but IIRC you're in California, right?

You know I'd never thought of that. We're on the cusp of getting ours done, and we figured on using charcoal/black like the existing roof (and like everyone else).

Only concern is technically we have to get HOA approval to change color... so we'll see.

On the plus side, we were budgeting like $12-15k for 50-year shingles, but the first company came in at around $8,300 for 50-year timberlines with a 25-year labor warranty (less without that). Got another company coming around Wednesday so we'll see.

Leperflesh
May 17, 2007

Yeah white/reflective is better in sunny hot areas, dunno if it matters at all in Portland which is very mild year round pretty much.

GoGoGadgetChris
Mar 18, 2010

i powder a
granite monument
in a soundless flash

showering the grass
with molten drops of
its gold inlay

sending smoking
chips of stone
skipping into the fog

DaveSauce posted:

You know I'd never thought of that. We're on the cusp of getting ours done, and we figured on using charcoal/black like the existing roof (and like everyone else).

Only concern is technically we have to get HOA approval to change color... so we'll see.

On the plus side, we were budgeting like $12-15k for 50-year shingles, but the first company came in at around $8,300 for 50-year timberlines with a 25-year labor warranty (less without that). Got another company coming around Wednesday so we'll see.

Roof pricing is hosed up at the moment because supply chains got disrupted by COVID and some shops got hit harder than others. If you're going to replace a roof, you either want to do it TODAY or in 3 years

I got quotes of

$13k

$18k

$29k

and $35k

The $35k guy simply would. not. believe. that I got a quote from anyone below $28k. When I sent him copies of the $13k and $18k bids he just said "I have no idea why they're offering that. I'm sorry. I can't come close to that. No one should be offering that"


Also if resale value is a concern, darker is better. Most people eyeball the age/condition of an asphalt roof by how much it has faded. A "white" asphalt roof looks exactly like a 25 year old charcoal roof so your prospective buyers will be asking for a roof credit even if it's brand new.

Omne
Jul 12, 2003

Orangedude Forever

Sigh...

We live in a one year old house, and they're building the three houses that back up to our property line. We had a fencing company out to give us a quote, and he realized that our property line extends further out than what the builder built to. The silt fence is on our property by 1-2", which has caused the irrigation subs to install the lines and heads on our property as well.

DaveSauce
Feb 15, 2004

Oh, how awkward.

GoGoGadgetChris posted:

Roof pricing is hosed up at the moment because supply chains got disrupted by COVID and some shops got hit harder than others. If you're going to replace a roof, you either want to do it TODAY or in 3 years

I got quotes of

$13k

$18k

$29k

and $35k

The $35k guy simply would. not. believe. that I got a quote from anyone below $28k. When I sent him copies of the $13k and $18k bids he just said "I have no idea why they're offering that. I'm sorry. I can't come close to that. No one should be offering that"


Also if resale value is a concern, darker is better. Most people eyeball the age/condition of an asphalt roof by how much it has faded. A "white" asphalt roof looks exactly like a 25 year old charcoal roof so your prospective buyers will be asking for a roof credit even if it's brand new.

We'll find out! This company is a local GC that we called in to give an estimate for our screened in porch, but they do roofs too so we figured we'd ask for an estimate anyhow. Same with the company coming in a few days. We were considering holding off, but for this price I figure now's a good time.

All the deck companies are telling us material shortages are only affecting lumber prices at the moment, as well as schedules. Nothing was mentioned about shingles, and we're going to go with composite for the deck so it's not as big of an issue (for now).

One guy did mention that he built a deck at a $700 loss, though, because the lumber price he quoted was like 2 weeks out of date from when he bought material... so sucks to be in that line of work right now.

Leperflesh posted:

Yeah white/reflective is better in sunny hot areas, dunno if it matters at all in Portland which is very mild year round pretty much.

lol I'm in NC, so if we can reduce our solar load then I'm all for it.

therobit
Aug 19, 2008

I've been tryin' to speak with you for a long time

GoGoGadgetChris posted:

New roof time!



This 1981-original cedar shake roof is coming off and a presidential asphalt shingle is taking its place. I need to pick a color. Should I try and replicate the copper color of the cedar or should I just go for a universal black? The house will probably get painted a different color at some point too so it'd be nice for the roof to be a flexible color to work with.

Is your roof leaking or something? Those look pretty good for cedar shingle roofing.

GoGoGadgetChris
Mar 18, 2010

i powder a
granite monument
in a soundless flash

showering the grass
with molten drops of
its gold inlay

sending smoking
chips of stone
skipping into the fog

therobit posted:

Is your roof leaking or something? Those look pretty good for cedar shingle roofing.

The other side faces the sun all day and is where the Ugly Stuff is happening :negative:

No leaks yet, but they'll be able to tear off my roof with their bare hands.

moana
Jun 18, 2005

one of the more intellectual satire communities on the web
I think that copper color is PRETTY so choose that one

H110Hawk
Dec 28, 2006

moana posted:

I think that copper color is PRETTY so choose that one

:same:

therobit
Aug 19, 2008

I've been tryin' to speak with you for a long time

GoGoGadgetChris posted:

The other side faces the sun all day and is where the Ugly Stuff is happening :negative:

No leaks yet, but they'll be able to tear off my roof with their bare hands.

Did you get any quotes to just fix the other side? Those are about the best looking cedar shingles I have ever seen and I was born in Oregon and have lived here all but two years of my life. If half the house is perfect why not fix the other half?

Maybe call Roof Life of Oregon. I hear their ads about cedar shingle roof maintenance on AM radio quite a bit. It seems to kinda be their thing.

Edit- I mean holy poo poo it lasted almost 40 years on the bad side and the good side still looks fine!

GoGoGadgetChris
Mar 18, 2010

i powder a
granite monument
in a soundless flash

showering the grass
with molten drops of
its gold inlay

sending smoking
chips of stone
skipping into the fog

therobit posted:

Did you get any quotes to just fix the other side? Those are about the best looking cedar shingles I have ever seen and I was born in Oregon and have lived here all but two years of my life. If half the house is perfect why not fix the other half?

Maybe call Roof Life of Oregon. I hear their ads about cedar shingle roof maintenance on AM radio quite a bit. It seems to kinda be their thing.

Edit- I mean holy poo poo it lasted almost 40 years on the bad side and the good side still looks fine!

Yeah, I got Roof Life up there to do routine maintenance and they ended up not charging me because there wasn't much to actually do.





The shingles have gotten mighty skinny and you can pull some of the more flimsy ones out with your fingers.

I live in a ~50 home neighborhood built from 1980 to 1984 and my house will probably mark the 50% line for New Roof.

And then a few months later I'll join New Window Gang too!!!

Dik Hz
Feb 22, 2004

Fun with Science

GoGoGadgetChris posted:

Yeah, I got Roof Life up there to do routine maintenance and they ended up not charging me because there wasn't much to actually do.





The shingles have gotten mighty skinny and you can pull some of the more flimsy ones out with your fingers.

I live in a ~50 home neighborhood built from 1980 to 1984 and my house will probably mark the 50% line for New Roof.

And then a few months later I'll join New Window Gang too!!!
Modern windows are a life-changer. Quiet and energy efficient.

We got several quotes and got all the pushy salesmen out to our house. One guy bragged that his company's windows had less heat loss than the walls around them. What's the point of that?

devmd01
Mar 7, 2006

Elektronik
Supersonik

Omne posted:

Sigh...

We live in a one year old house, and they're building the three houses that back up to our property line. We had a fencing company out to give us a quote, and he realized that our property line extends further out than what the builder built to. The silt fence is on our property by 1-2", which has caused the irrigation subs to install the lines and heads on our property as well.

Lawyer time! Or just go the route of getting a survey marked up, then trash anything on your side of the line....but that course is probably not recommended.

Dik Hz
Feb 22, 2004

Fun with Science

Omne posted:

Sigh...

We live in a one year old house, and they're building the three houses that back up to our property line. We had a fencing company out to give us a quote, and he realized that our property line extends further out than what the builder built to. The silt fence is on our property by 1-2", which has caused the irrigation subs to install the lines and heads on our property as well.
Call them up and tell them. It'll be a lot easier and cheaper now than it will be at any point in the future. Also, I'm assuming 1-2 feet, right? 1-2" is inches.

DaveSauce
Feb 15, 2004

Oh, how awkward.

devmd01 posted:

Lawyer time! Or just go the route of getting a survey marked up, then trash anything on your side of the line....but that course is probably not recommended.

In all cases, fix this ASAP. Do this before anyone moves in. The last thing you want to do is have to complain to your brand new neighbor about this, or worse bring them to court. The builder will probably just fix it (half-assed) and move on.

DaveSauce fucked around with this message at 13:04 on Aug 25, 2020

Elephanthead
Sep 11, 2008


Toilet Rascal

Bioshuffle posted:

One of my upstairs windows has no window screen. Is it possible to buy a kit to install one from inside so I don't have to get up really high on a ladder trying something I've never done before?

Call a screen guy and he will build one the right size and stick it in. The key to homeownership is calling the right guy before messing things up worse. He will have a trailer that he has things in it to build the square things with.

Sirotan
Oct 17, 2006

Sirotan is a seal.


Bioshuffle posted:

One of my upstairs windows has no window screen. Is it possible to buy a kit to install one from inside so I don't have to get up really high on a ladder trying something I've never done before?

If you only need one, I'd probably just buy one of these things and call it a day https://flexscreen.com/

Omne
Jul 12, 2003

Orangedude Forever

devmd01 posted:

Lawyer time! Or just go the route of getting a survey marked up, then trash anything on your side of the line....but that course is probably not recommended.

Yeah we are jumping in this to get it fixed. We want the fence in as soon as possible and now need to wait.

Dik Hz posted:

Call them up and tell them. It'll be a lot easier and cheaper now than it will be at any point in the future. Also, I'm assuming 1-2 feet, right? 1-2" is inches.

Sorry yes, one to two feet. I called the office and they’re sending the project manager out to look. Unfortunately the sod was installed this morning. I went out and measured and sure enough, sprinkler heads are on our side. The fence guy couldn’t find the corner marker, he thinks it was either never placed or is now under the sidewalk they installed. He found the others and with his measuring wheel realized how off it was and showed us. He said this is not an uncommon occurrence

StormDrain
May 22, 2003

Thirteen Letter

GoGoGadgetChris posted:

Yeah, I got Roof Life up there to do routine maintenance and they ended up not charging me because there wasn't much to actually do.





The shingles have gotten mighty skinny and you can pull some of the more flimsy ones out with your fingers.

I live in a ~50 home neighborhood built from 1980 to 1984 and my house will probably mark the 50% line for New Roof.

And then a few months later I'll join New Window Gang too!!!

Are wood roofs still considered an insurance liability? If so perhaps you can get a lower rate when you replace it with asphalt shingles.

Dik Hz
Feb 22, 2004

Fun with Science

Omne posted:

Sorry yes, one to two feet. I called the office and they’re sending the project manager out to look. Unfortunately the sod was installed this morning. I went out and measured and sure enough, sprinkler heads are on our side. The fence guy couldn’t find the corner marker, he thinks it was either never placed or is now under the sidewalk they installed. He found the others and with his measuring wheel realized how off it was and showed us. He said this is not an uncommon occurrence
You'll be fine. Thank God you caught it now instead of after new buyers had moved in. The builders will probably just fix it and move on. Having potentially 3 new neighbors realize they didn't buy as much yard as they thought they did would be a nightmare.

I'd probably also leave the fencing guy a positive review somewhere that helps him and/or buy him a bottle of Scotch. His awareness helped you out.

Bioshuffle
Feb 10, 2011

No good deed goes unpunished

Elephanthead posted:

Call a screen guy and he will build one the right size and stick it in. The key to homeownership is calling the right guy before messing things up worse. He will have a trailer that he has things in it to build the square things with.

I'm starting to realize this. I went with the lowest bidder to remove wallpaper and skimcoat over it, but they did a really piss poor job in between the door and the wall corner, so I probably have to go back and fix it at some point.

LloydDobler
Oct 15, 2005

You shared it with a dick.

Omne posted:

He said this is not an uncommon occurrence

Yep. My dad installed his own corner posts to mark the property boundary and they're dead accurate. Then we spray painted a line between them. The idiots we hired to pave the back driveway still poured and steamrolled a corner of the asphalt 2 feet on to our neighbor's property, right over the line. That was fun to explain once it became fence building time. Fortunately the neighbors are cool and are just willing to live with a little patch of asphalt under the fence for now.

TURGID TOMFOOLERY
Nov 1, 2019

Cross posting a bit but;

Any good podcasts about buying a house and/or remodeling/upkeeping a house?

Moneyball
Jul 11, 2005

It's a problem you think we need to explain ourselves.
So, I'm not buying a house any time soon, but I am trying to work with the space I have, which is a good sized room, to make a combined bedroom, living room, and working space.

It's about 14' by 12' with four (!) windows on the southern corner of the house.

This image is not exactly to scale, but it's about what I was thinking of doing.

Top corner would be a dresser and other clothing storage or I could move that to the wall by the door.

Left of the couch- shelving, bookcase etc.

Big thing by the window would be a rug.

The only issue is what to do for a bed. I get that futons are tacky, but what about a cabinet bed that folds up in to a desk? Still tacky?
https://odditymall.com/murphy-cabinet-bed

It's not like I have a lot of guests anyway heh :smith:

I think I can make it look pretty good other than the less than desirable sleeping surface. If I do just go with a queen size bed, I'm going to have to crowd everything else.

Only registered members can see post attachments!

Moneyball fucked around with this message at 17:36 on Aug 28, 2020

Moneyball
Jul 11, 2005

It's a problem you think we need to explain ourselves.
Or something like this if I just stuck with a bed like a normal person.

Only registered members can see post attachments!

Sirotan
Oct 17, 2006

Sirotan is a seal.


How often do you expect to host people overnight? If it is only a couple nights a year, you could think about buying a nicer air mattress instead of some permanent hidden bed. I would bet the foam mattress in the thing you posted probably sucks to sleep on anyway. Get an air mattress, and maybe a memory foam topper for it and you'll probably have a more comfortable bed that also won't take up a whole bunch of room. That's what I am planning to do for guest accommodations, anyway.

Edit: I am going on the assumption that this is a guest bedroom

Moneyball
Jul 11, 2005

It's a problem you think we need to explain ourselves.
No, it's mine, sadly. I'm still living the poor life of renting a single room.

DaveSauce
Feb 15, 2004

Oh, how awkward.
I'd try to mimic a hotel configuration. Put the bed bottom left (rotate so headboard is against the left wall). Put the couch (loveseat?) next to the bed on the left wall. Desk and TV on the right-hand wall (desk bottom right, TV between the door and the desk).

You're not going to want the TV in front of a window unless you have blackout curtains (and even if you do, you'll have to work around the TV to open the curtains).

SpartanIvy
May 18, 2007
Hair Elf
Beds against windows are always a bad idea in my mind. Besides the light, you get additional noise from outside.

One tip I have is to orient the desk and other furniture so that they act as visual breaks within the room. By having them perpendicular to walls, they can act like little walls with the space. It also allows access to the back of the furniture which can sometimes double the utility of bookshelves, if they don't a back to them.

Sirotan
Oct 17, 2006

Sirotan is a seal.


Moneyball posted:

No, it's mine, sadly. I'm still living the poor life of renting a single room.

Oh then yeah give yourself an actual real bed or at least the the real Murphy Bed that uses a real mattress and folds up against the wall. Anything else is going to be completely miserable for sleeping on regularly.

I'd probably put the bed in the upper left, then stick your desk up against the windows. It's nice being able to sit there and look out while you work.

Edit:

Sirotan fucked around with this message at 18:17 on Aug 28, 2020

joepinetree
Apr 5, 2012
I don't remember if it was here on on the other thread that I discussed this.

I've been having pretty high humidity in my condo. Ranging from 65% to 80%. The reason for that is the specific weather pattern that we've been having: it's been both unseasonably cool and humid. So the AC doesn't turn on, etc. Now, everywhere I look on the internet says that ideal RH is like 45-55, with 30-60 as the acceptable range. So we're clearly above that. But at the same time, I expect this to be relatively temporary. While the forecast still predicts unseasonably cool and humid weather for the next 2 weeks, I image that once winter hits and the heat starts turning on more frequently the problem will solve itself (same for if we ever go back to having a regular summer weather).

So the question is: how much should I worry about temporary high humidity like this? I bought a cheapo small dehumidifier that is not handling the load, so next step is one of those $300-400 bigger units. On one hand, I don't want to spend 400 bucks I don't have to if the problem will solve itself in a 6 weeks, but on the other I don't want to risk having to deal with a big mold problem just to save 400 bucks.

Moneyball
Jul 11, 2005

It's a problem you think we need to explain ourselves.

DaveSauce posted:

I'd try to mimic a hotel configuration. Put the bed bottom left (rotate so headboard is against the left wall). Put the couch (loveseat?) next to the bed on the left wall. Desk and TV on the right-hand wall (desk bottom right, TV between the door and the desk).

You're not going to want the TV in front of a window unless you have blackout curtains (and even if you do, you'll have to work around the TV to open the curtains).

That's one configuration I was thinking of. The windows wouldn't be a problem though- I wouldn't use the TV much and in fact I don't even have one at the moment! So when I do get one, it would probably just be for watching stuff at night/when I have someone over. The window side of the room is actually curved outward, but I couldn't get the floorplan editor to do that. I'd have access to the curtains.



Sirotan posted:

Oh then yeah give yourself an actual real bed or at least the the real Murphy Bed that uses a real mattress and folds up against the wall. Anything else is going to be completely miserable for sleeping on regularly.

I'd probably put the bed in the upper left, then stick your desk up against the windows. It's nice being able to sit there and look out while you work.

Edit:



This may work.

I don't think I can bolt a Murphy bed to the wall, even though it's cool as hell. Plus both those and the desk bed are unnecessarily expensive. The only reason I would pay the premium is so they wouldn't take up a lot of space.

I've been avoiding having my bed up against the upper left wall since that's the only one I share with a roommate and I don't want to traumatize the poor girl if I have an overnight guest. But that might be the only option to fit things in nicely.

SpartanIvy posted:

Beds against windows are always a bad idea in my mind. Besides the light, you get additional noise from outside.

One tip I have is to orient the desk and other furniture so that they act as visual breaks within the room. By having them perpendicular to walls, they can act like little walls with the space. It also allows access to the back of the furniture which can sometimes double the utility of bookshelves, if they don't a back to them.

I was trying to do something like that with the couch in my second attempt. Use that to break up the room a bit. And Sirotan's example works for that as well.



Thank y'all. I have some planning to do.

DaveSauce
Feb 15, 2004

Oh, how awkward.
I will say in practice, the room splitting thing is quite nice. We're currently doing it with our bonus room, with our "office" on one side of the couch and the TV on the other similar to Sirotan's drawing.

Granted, it's a pretty big room, but we have room to spare so it's do-able with a smaller space. You may have to omit the coffee table to squeeze things in there, but if you get a couple end tables you won't miss it.

Soylent Majority
Jul 13, 2020

Dune 2: Chicks At The Same Time
Anyone have experience with under cabinet lighting? I’m looking to set something up as part of our diy kitchen remodel and I haven’t found much about which types/brands are good or bad. I think I’d have to add an outlet inside the cabinet and then run the power down from there to the light fixture underneath, but that would leave each side of the cabinets separate from the other - I think I’d rather have them turn off and on as one. Wife would like to have at the least adjustability on the intensity and temperature of the lighting, and wouldn’t mind if she could do cute poo poo with full rgb if that’s an option to let her set up red and green around Xmas or orange for Halloween etc.

We’re moderately handy folk, we’ve already replaced the counters with butcher block and replaced the sink and installed ceiling fans to replace lovely boob lights - I’m moderately comfortable doing electrical work but this would be my first time installing a new outlet vs updating the ancient ungrounded poo poo I’ve been updating around the house the last few years.

Anyone done this sort of thing? Pitfalls I should be aware of, advice on types of lights/installs etc that y’all have would be appreciated.

DaveSauce
Feb 15, 2004

Oh, how awkward.
I installed the Hue strip lights a while back and couldn't be happier. Our kitchen has plenty of outlets so we just plugged them in to the existing wall sockets. Kinda ugly in that respect, but it made a massive difference in light in the kitchen. Also technically you're not supposed to use a diffuser or anything, for heat reasons I presume. We don't, so the light is a bit raw and casts funny shadows, but we're over it.

Only issue I've had so far is sometimes the adhesive isn't stellar, but the 3M VHB tape usually fixes it up.

So it's certainly not a polished installation, but with a little bit more effort it could be.

edit: I'd post pictures, but our kitchen is a disaster area right now and the last thing I need is for internet strangers to see our dirty dishes and grease-spattered cooktop.

DaveSauce fucked around with this message at 19:40 on Aug 28, 2020

Struensee
Nov 9, 2011

joepinetree posted:

So the question is: how much should I worry about temporary high humidity like this? I bought a cheapo small dehumidifier that is not handling the load, so next step is one of those $300-400 bigger units.

How much humidity is there in the air when you have that unit running?

joepinetree
Apr 5, 2012

Struensee posted:

How much humidity is there in the air when you have that unit running?

The small one? Doesn't seem to make much of a dent at all, but it's one of those really small single room ones. It pulls maybe a pint a day of water, and if there is a difference my hygrometer varies in the low single digits with it on (so from 80 to 78, for example).

I know it is wildly insufficient, but at the same time, it's not a problem I've had before. Like, I know people who have installed humidifier units on their HVAC systems, but not dehumidifiers. It's not a normal problem to have here, and pretty much everything i find online is about perennially humid rooms and areas, and nothing about what length of period of high humidity is a problem.

joepinetree fucked around with this message at 21:47 on Aug 28, 2020

H110Hawk
Dec 28, 2006

joepinetree posted:

The small one? Doesn't seem to make much of a dent at all, but it's one of those really small single room ones. It pulls maybe a pint a day of water, and if there is a difference my hygrometer varies in the low single digits with it on (so from 80 to 78, for example).

I know it is wildly insufficient, but at the same time, it's not a problem I've had before. Like, I know people who have installed humidifier units on their HVAC systems, but not dehumidifiers. It's not a normal problem to have here, and pretty much everything i find online is about perennially humid rooms and areas, and nothing about what length of period of high humidity is a problem.

What is your inside temperature right now compared to outside? If you can stand adjusting that a degree or two by running your climate control system you are likely to notice a marked difference. Or heck crank it down and dry your place out. See how quickly it comes back after a few days of drying out. How well air sealed is your home?

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Sundae
Dec 1, 2005
Whoever writes the HOA newsletter has been having a very bad day. Excerpt:

"It has come to our attention that many residents do not understand what the phrase "load-bearing" means."

:lol:

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