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Eej posted:Apologies for the Canadian links but I'm just grabbing links from my Amazon invoice The compressor doesn't seem to be on Amazon US, but that adapter looks good; the reviews mention it connects to the Badger 105 brush, and one mentions it working with a Harbor Freight compressor, which is the one I thought about buying. Thanks. EDIT: I thought about a quick-release adapter, but I think I might wait until I've tried using the airbrush for a while. Max Wilco fucked around with this message at 03:06 on Aug 28, 2020 |
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Aug 28, 2020 02:40
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Quick release valve with air adjustment and a Badger QD male end are my recommendation. Sets you up cheap to swap if you get a second non-Badger airbrush and gives you some quick air control right at the airbrush.
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Aug 28, 2020 03:11
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Skorpekh Lord done! This fellow was a lot of fun, really makes me eager for more necrons.
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Aug 28, 2020 04:08
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Dreylad posted:Yeah, I've got to say I really enjoy blocking in my highlights and shading first -- something about that process is really chill and fun, probably because I struggle to identify where my highlights should be when applying them after a base colour. Being able to apply thin coats of colour afterwards while maintaining the highlights and shading already locked in is pretty cool. Not to mention how easy it is to blend colours on the model. One of the little things that most people who make videos about glazing pass over or forget to mention is that you typically want to wick away a majority of the moisture in your brush when glazing. You don't want the brush bone-dry, but you definitely don't want it going all over the place because the relatively high surface tension means it's going to behave like a bad wash, with lots of pooling and splotching. After you've loaded up your glaze, just lightly tap the tip of your brush to a piece of paper towel and you should be just about perfect. For the really smooth glaze blending, you're basically using coats so thin that there is virtually no visible difference until you've built up several layers - some of the crazy Golden Demon guys do dozens and dozens of glaze layers, but if you just want some easy color modulation with decent enough feathering to look better than the typical layering / wash style, you can use 2-3 passes of a more pigment-heavy glaze.
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Aug 28, 2020 04:54
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Dreylad posted:Oh yeah, already done and practicing, it's an important part of underpainting. I just get lost if I add my base layers and lose that highlight and shading, even when I take pictures of some of the models. This is me! Although instead of going the glaze route I'm experimenting more with inks, but I guess at its core it's the same principle.
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Aug 28, 2020 10:59
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Painted a pair of plague marines to get my workflow on them down, actually enjoyed painting them which is more than i can say for admech   
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Aug 28, 2020 12:03
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Grizzled Patriarch posted:One of the little things that most people who make videos about glazing pass over or forget to mention is that you typically want to wick away a majority of the moisture in your brush when glazing. You don't want the brush bone-dry, but you definitely don't want it going all over the place because the relatively high surface tension means it's going to behave like a bad wash, with lots of pooling and splotching. That's perfect advice, thanks a lot. I've been following Dana Howl on this (as have a few other people from the looks of it), and she does mention that particular tip, but your description gives me a better idea of what I'm aiming for. Just going to keep putting in some hours and develop a feel for it. I already love the results, even if it is more time consuming than layering/washing. I'm also getting a better feel for which paints need more thinning because of the difference in coverage (blues vs yellows being a pretty obvious example).
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Aug 28, 2020 15:23
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After a hiatus of nearly 20 years I have recently picked up the brushes and started painting miniatures again. I would like to share the minies I've painted the last few weeks This is Minsc and Boo wich were included in the D&D starter paint set. It was the first mini i painted after my break and the first time ever doing fancy stuff like washes and highlights. I forgot to remove the mould lines and the wash I used on his skin did not work that well with his skin tone, but other than that I think it turned out ok.  A pair of WizKids mules. Those ropes on the luggage were really annoying to paint. I painted them so I could use them in my D&D campaign, but of course those psycos left their mule to die in the wilderness in the first session it was used   I gues this is a Ral Partha from the late 90s. This was quick and fun to paint.  This is a Ral Partha from 1990 that I think is supposed to be bone naga. I'm not super happy about how it turned out and I probably should have used a lighter brown wash for the bones as the black one I used made it hard to highlight the bones without them standing out in a bad way. 
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Aug 28, 2020 15:40
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Yellow is a pain in the rear end to paint, but I'm slowly learning.  
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Aug 28, 2020 16:44
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https://www.youtube.com/watch?v=ufP8ka3KGno Duncan posted a video with six tips for starting painters. Featuring an in depth look of his first ever model.
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Aug 28, 2020 17:04
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blue collar orc posted:After a hiatus of nearly 20 years I have recently picked up the brushes and started painting miniatures again. I would like to share the minies I've painted the last few weeks These look great!
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Aug 28, 2020 19:05
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Cooked Auto posted:https://www.youtube.com/watch?v=ufP8ka3KGno I've been painting off and on for 20 ish years and still watch every "Tips for Starting Painters" videos.
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Aug 28, 2020 19:31
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Cooked Auto posted:https://www.youtube.com/watch?v=ufP8ka3KGno My daughter painted her first Space Marine. She didn't get too disappointed in her mistakes, which was great, but I was about to go look for Duncan's first model to show her how even the best painters started off making mistakes. She did have some tricks Duncan didn't back then like contrast paints and metallic base paints, neither of which need much thinning. She's still going to add more details to it this weekend.
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Aug 28, 2020 19:49
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I want to see his rhino
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Aug 28, 2020 19:50
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Cooked Auto posted:https://www.youtube.com/watch?v=ufP8ka3KGno I relate a lot to this, because I was in the same situation and about the same age. No one told me anything, I just tried to figure it out my own. My high elf spears basically look like that Space Marine.
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Aug 28, 2020 19:58
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Hot painting tip from me, age 14: Having trouble getting good coverage in a single coat? No problem, just put more paint on your brush and paint using literally a glob of paint drooping off the bristles. 
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Aug 28, 2020 20:28
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Der Shovel posted:Yellow is a pain in the rear end to paint, but I'm slowly learning. That battle damage and rust looks amazing
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Aug 28, 2020 20:44
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Der Shovel posted:Yellow is a pain in the rear end to paint, but I'm slowly learning. Hell yeah sponge weathering! It's such a good value of effort vs reward.
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Aug 28, 2020 20:57
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blue collar orc posted:That battle damage and rust looks amazing Thanks  As Spanish Manlove says, sponge weathering! Tore up a kitchen sponge into small irregular bits, dip it Dryad Bark and pat away. If I got a bigger spot, I painted some metal on the edge later.
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Aug 28, 2020 21:20
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Phi230 posted:Does anybody have any advice on developing a color scheme for pale blue or pale grey flesh? I'm trying to paint a pair ghouls and I want their skin to be a light, pallid kind of grey-blue or just cold grey. I'm still trying to get a hang of making my own color schemes so any help on this front would be appreciated. So just to update: I'm trying, for my first attempt, with Vallejo Cold Grey and Dark Grey Blue as a wash, and highlighting pretty much with just mixing in Vallejo Pale Flesh up to the top. Will this, theoretically yield a decent grey flesh tone? Or should I highlight up with lighter greys and not use the flesh tone. Could still use some advice. Also how do I use WN Glaze medium, should I add water or flow improver/thinner to the mix to actually thin it to a glaze consistency. Does anybody have any experience with this stuff/have a recipe as a guide? Here's my latest model from the Reaper Layer Up kit:  I have no idea how to highlight metallic paint. Phi230 fucked around with this message at 21:27 on Aug 28, 2020 |
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Aug 28, 2020 21:25
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Phi230 posted:So just to update: I'm trying, for my first attempt, with Vallejo Cold Grey and Dark Grey Blue as a wash, and highlighting pretty much with just mixing in Vallejo Pale Flesh up to the top. Will this, theoretically yield a decent grey flesh tone? Or should I highlight up with lighter greys and not use the flesh tone. Could still use some advice. For metallic paint you can typically wash it, and them bring it back up to brightness with the same metallic you started with, or something even brighter. Some people go with silver on gold for a highlight, but I think this looks very odd personally, and it makes non-silvers look less like non-silver.
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Aug 28, 2020 21:59
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Verisimilidude posted:For metallic paint you can typically wash it, and them bring it back up to brightness with the same metallic you started with, or something even brighter. Some people go with silver on gold for a highlight, but I think this looks very odd personally, and it makes non-silvers look less like non-silver. Yeah I don't like how people highlight gold with silver, it looks weird to me.
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Aug 28, 2020 22:02
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Kroxigor!       
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Aug 29, 2020 01:42
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^Those are gorgeous Anyone know how big the Scale75 busts are? I'm having so much fun with my airbrush I just only want to use that all the time now. Also what do you guys think of the Adolforc bust they have? I think it's funny and making fun of that shitlord but I feel like it's ~too controversial~ in today's climate 
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Aug 29, 2020 02:45
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Test space wolf second try. Even lazier paint job than last time but this is all to see if colors work together. Got some vallejo luftwaffe grey for the armor and it's fitting pretty well in my opinion. I washed the blue/green with some gulliman blue glaze (rip) then drybrushed with p3 frostbite white.  So what do you guys think of the colors? Tomorrow I think i'm gonna try this scheme out on a primaris marine from the indomitus box. Lets see if I remember how to apply transfers. edit: I originally planned on using a dark blue for space wolves but instead decided to use that on the tau. Here's what that would have looked like (I used some extra bits to decorate the base of a ghostkeel) Spanish Manlove fucked around with this message at 04:35 on Aug 29, 2020 |
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Aug 29, 2020 03:42
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Did Citadel revamp their Kroxigors finally or is that some other manufacturer? Last I checked they were still the goofy old sculpts but those look awesome.
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Aug 29, 2020 03:46
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Skeleton boss! ... Twins?  Oh. Skeleton minibosses!  Plus an Umber Hulk I'm extremely happy with (and an old mini for scale)! 
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Aug 29, 2020 04:12
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Grizzled Patriarch posted:Did Citadel revamp their Kroxigors finally or is that some other manufacturer? Last I checked they were still the goofy old sculpts but those look awesome. Those are Lost Kingdom. They sell them cast in resin or they started a Patreon earlier this year where they've gradually been releasing the STLs for 3D printing of the lizards, some dwarves, and this month had some Tomb King-ish cavalry.
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Aug 29, 2020 05:16
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darnon posted:Those are Lost Kingdom. They sell them cast in resin or they started a Patreon earlier this year where they've gradually been releasing the STLs for 3D printing of the lizards, some dwarves, and this month had some Tomb King-ish cavalry. GW's release mentality of "never touch a faction for decades unless we go for a complete revamp of the line, then ignore it again forever" has to be losing them some money.
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Aug 29, 2020 05:47
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Dammit. I organised baby sitting. Wife is watching work video's. Great warm sunny weather. Best day in months to put together my OATHMARK army and undercoat it tomorrow. ...and the partially used Games Workshop plastic glue dried up/blocked/stopped up completely after doing the first 10 out of 40 Northstar Elf Archers. With everything in LOCKDOWN here in Melbourne I can't just go walk into Mordor to get more model glue. I've tried superglue but that's not working to get the tiny heads on. It did work wonderfully on getting on my fingers  . I got their arms on but the heads would just stick to me instead of the model's neck. I feel like I should cry at this point.Instead I've ordered more plastic figure glue which won't arrive for a week and I'm going to mow the lawn instead.
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Aug 29, 2020 07:28
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Comstar posted:Dammit. I organised baby sitting. Wife is watching work video's. Great warm sunny weather. Best day in months to put together my OATHMARK army and undercoat it tomorrow.
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Aug 29, 2020 07:52
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jesus WEP posted:if you have a gas burner, pull the metal applicator out of the bottle and hold it over the flame with tweezers to burn the dried cement out of it. try not to breathe too much maybe Lighters work too.
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Aug 29, 2020 08:35
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Cross-posting from the MCP thread:
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Aug 29, 2020 14:39
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Some totally loyalist Tempestus Scions
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Aug 29, 2020 17:12
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richyp posted:Some totally loyalist Tempestus Scions drat that OSL is masterful. I'm getting a really strong Helgan from Killzone vibe.
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Aug 29, 2020 18:21
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I’m (struggling with) building some Nighthaunt Spirit Hosts and HOLY gently caress are these some of the fiddliest, shittiest designed models I’ve ever had the displeasure of trying to assemble. I’m building a few just because I thought the models look rad as heck when they’re done, but gently caress me are they a nightmare to build. I can’t even imagine building a shitload of them for an actual army. Whoever designed the instructions can get hosed, they’re totally useless.
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Aug 29, 2020 18:41
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KingMob posted:Cross-posting from the MCP thread: Started paint again after a hiatus, I'm quit happy how these ended up. 
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Aug 29, 2020 20:34
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   Tidied up the first 2 and finished 3 more (minus a bp)
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Aug 29, 2020 21:14
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Indomitus Space Marine Attempt #1 Transfers are a huge pain in the rear end, and IDK how I feel about how the colors are layered on the shoulders. Maybe do the frost effect then put the transfer on? Free handing runes isn't that bad, next time I won't have coffee in the morning as my hands were kinda shaky.   
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Aug 29, 2020 23:14
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Furism posted:Lighters work too. I'm pretty sure every time I ever sit down to build some minis always starts with me lighting the tip with a clipper until it roars a tiny flame Surely every corner shop stocks super glue as well?
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Aug 30, 2020 00:01
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