|
Came here to say M42 is what you want if you want easily adapted MF lenses. The adapter is a $5 metal ring. For primes at 135mm, Pentax made a great 135 f/2.5 or a more common, and thus cheaper 135 f/3.5 in their Takumar lineup. You can also go to Soviet lenses, and there are some really very good options there too. The Jupiter 37A is 135 f/3.5, the Jupiter 11A is 135 at f/4 and are both common enough to be found for lunch money on auction sites. The best option is the much less common Tair 11A which is 135 at f/2.8. The Jupiters are Zeiss Sonnar copies, but the Tair is an original design.
|
#
?
Aug 30, 2020 07:19
|
|
|
|
| # ? Jun 8, 2024 09:52 |
|
|
Yeah, I did a 50 on my crop sensor and it was fine-ish but I didn't take enough exposures to get a nice and clean shot, plus I live under a ton of light pollution. Northern Michigan should give me a better chance at taking some decent shots if I get clear skies. I plan on eventually getting a tracking mount, but one thing at a time. The only lenses I have now for this camera are the 50 and 75-300 kit lens. I should be able to sell my others easily though since they're in perfect condition, and I found a few inexpensive EF mount zoom lenses for normal daytime landscape photography. I'll for sure look into the M42 stuff though.
|
|
#
?
Aug 30, 2020 08:10
|
|
|
Lots of people take to adapting old lenses because they have "character". I'm not sure character is what you want for astro?
|
|
#
?
Aug 30, 2020 08:26
|
|
|
Big McHuge posted:Yeah, I did a 50 on my crop sensor and it was fine-ish but I didn't take enough exposures to get a nice and clean shot, plus I live under a ton of light pollution. Northern Michigan should give me a better chance at taking some decent shots if I get clear skies. https://darksitefinder.com/maps/world.html#4/44.81/-86.53 Gotta go to the UP if you want proper dark! Or Utah. Pablo Bluth posted:Lots of people take to adapting old lenses because they have "character". I'm not sure character is what you want for astro? On the other hand astro nerds are solid in the if it's not perfect it's CRAP part of the Venn diagram. If it's a nice foreground and a prominent Milky Way, the average joe isn't gonna give a poo poo if there's coma in the corners. They'll probably never even look at the corners.
|
|
#
?
Aug 30, 2020 13:59
|
|
|
Sorry if this has been asked recently, but I'm looking at getting a DSLR to upgrade my 11 year old Powershot SX20 which is developing some mechanical issues with its lens. Is the EOS Rebel T7 still a decent relative beginners/enthusiast choice for a DSLR in tyool 2020? I mostly care about nature and landscape photography, and already have some amount experience with manually setting the shot settings with my current camera so that won't be a completely foreign concept for me to deal with. I was specifically looking at this package to get mostly everything I'd need in a single purchase. I might like to eventually get a real macro lens, but a few other folks I've spoken with have said that the macro lens attachments are a good enough place to start, and that I'd always be able to buy a real macro lens in the future if I decided I needed one. The 18-55 lens should be fine for the bulk of what I'd be wanting to take, and for further distance shots the 75-300 should have me covered, especially with the lens attachment for even further shots which I think I'd probably need to use as well for a number of shots. The other concern I had in looking at reviews was that the T7 doesn't perform as well as other DSLRs in low light situations and what is and isn't low light is tricky to define I think? A lot of the macro shots I'll take will be in the woods, which isn't like night time photography low light, but it's still relatively low light and my current camera has issues with that kind of shot. I'd have to imagine that even a Not Amazing DSLR would perform considerably better than an 11 year old superzoom in those same situations. Is that not the case? Does that package come with like a lot of garbage I'd just not use realistically? And even if it does, is everything bundled together seems like it'd be cheaper to buy it all as a pack and get some stuff I don't truly need instead of just buying the needed equipment in smaller packs or individually? e: seems like a lot of places recommend going for a t7i instead of the t7. seems like going for a similar bundle pushes the cost up ~300 dollars. This is something I hope/plan to get 5-10 years use out of so that isn't big of a deal when thinking of it spread out over that timeframe. What is the general feeling on getting those bundles instead of just getting things individually? Circle Nine fucked around with this message at 14:50 on Aug 30, 2020 |
|
#
?
Aug 30, 2020 14:11
|
|
|
Circle Nine posted:Sorry if this has been asked recently, but I'm looking at getting a DSLR to upgrade my 11 year old Powershot SX20 which is developing some mechanical issues with its lens. Is the EOS Rebel T7 still a decent relative beginners/enthusiast choice for a DSLR in tyool 2020? I mostly care about nature and landscape photography, and already have some amount experience with manually setting the shot settings with my current camera so that won't be a completely foreign concept for me to deal with. You've covered a lot of different types of photography there and yes a t7 can do them all to a decent level, will it be the best for all if them maybe not however lenses are lighting are more important. You mentioned macro in the woods, what exactly are you envisioning here? Generally bundles are poo poo deals, get the body second hand get a couple of memory cards and a rocket blower. Start thinking really hard about what you want to take photos of to decide on the lenses and other gear you need. Then pick up the lenses second hand as well. Nature can cover shooting birds at 600mm, landscapes at 18mm and macro at 100mm but a few cm away. Wildlife guys tend to get nerdy and have a niche though.
|
|
#
?
Aug 30, 2020 15:01
|
|
|
jarlywarly posted:You've covered a lot of different types of photography there and yes a t7 can do them all to a decent level, will it be the best for all if them maybe not however lenses are lighting are more important. You mentioned macro in the woods, what exactly are you envisioning here? Macro shots of fungus, mushrooms, moss growing on tree and stumps, bugs on flowers, etc. I like to just kind of go through the woods until I come along something I think is interesting which usually ends up being something like those. This and this are two old pictures I wish I would have been able to get closer and more detail on but I had trouble getting focus with the lighting I had. As for wildlife, I'd probably be focusing more on insects and waterbirds rather than smaller and flightier birds. But sometimes the herons, loons, whatever I'm wanting to take a picture of will be on the opposite side of a lake where I'd need to be able to shoot at a very long distance if I'm looking to get details. As for lenses, without breaking the bank too much, would the ef-s 18-55 mm and 75-300 mm cover the bulk of those needs? For very long distance shots, would I need something more than the 300? If I do want to do more of the macro stuff, would you recommend getting a for real macro lens? Honestly, lens are the most confusing part of DLSRs for me. Sorry for such basic questions.
|
|
#
?
Aug 30, 2020 15:55
|
|
|
Pretty much any current model DSLR/MILC is going to be a visibly better option than your dying Powershot. Spec differences are mostly a wash between cameras at similar price points and you'll hit your limits as a photographer well before you hit the limits of your gear in most cases. Having said that, I'd also go for the T7i, it has a better sensor, better image processor (which will help in lowlight a lot), and a bunch of usability improvements over the T7. The two lenses in that bundle are fine for figuring out what you want to do and covering a decent range of options to an acceptable level. Neither are stellar lenses, and I'd never recommend them as upgrades to anything at all, but you can use them just fine while you explore their limits and find out what gear upgrades are going to be best value for you. Other than the SD cards, the rest of the stuff in that bundle is garbage trash that is going to clog up a box in your spare room until you finally get around to throwing it out. Lens adapters are bad, you're going to be hugely disappointed with the results from them, especially as they are going to be attached to low-end lenses. There are also better ways of doing macro that don't involve buying a several hundred dollar lens if you want to play with that option on the cheap - check the Macro thread for some tips there. I'm pretty sure there's a T7i bundle with those two lenses and no other poo poo for around that price. Buy that, get a good SD card, a few microfibre cloths, and some macro rings, and you'll be set for the moment. A tripod should be an early purchase, but buy a not-poo poo one even if you can't afford a really good one to start. When you've got that setup, you'll find that you'll be in a better place to figure out which particular hole you want to throw your photobucks into. Finding that the 18-55 doesn't manage lowlight or action as well as you'd like? Check out the Sigma/Tamorn 17-50 f/2.8. Want to take pictures of flowers or your SO with all of the bokeh? Buy a 50 f//1.8. Finding that you aren't getting great shots of birds and wildlife? Figure out which organs you can live without and buy a nicer long lens.
|
|
#
?
Aug 30, 2020 16:11
|
|
|
Helen Highwater posted:Pretty much any current model DSLR/MILC is going to be a visibly better option than your dying Powershot. Spec differences are mostly a wash between cameras at similar price points and you'll hit your limits as a photographer well before you hit the limits of your gear in most cases. Having said that, I'd also go for the T7i, it has a better sensor, better image processor (which will help in lowlight a lot), and a bunch of usability improvements over the T7. Empty quote. This is the answer.
|
|
#
?
Aug 30, 2020 17:01
|
|
|
Woah. Didn’t know M42 lenses could be adapted to EF mount. Cool.
|
|
#
?
Aug 30, 2020 19:01
|
|
|
Circle Nine posted:Macro shots of fungus, mushrooms, moss growing on tree and stumps, bugs on flowers, etc. I like to just kind of go through the woods until I come along something I think is interesting which usually ends up being something like those. This and this are two old pictures I wish I would have been able to get closer and more detail on but I had trouble getting focus with the lighting I had. You listed my styles of photography, do these look like the kind of shots you'd might want?  Hoverfly by Aves Lux, on Flickr Mushroom Cluster by Aves Lux, on FlickrBasically here's what I'd do for starter entry level buy the T7i body and get the 18-55 and a Kenko extension tube set that supports AF so you have some a starter point. Go out and take some photos try to get the shots you want, see what you like/don't like about them and the process. Then when you kind of have some more experience For macro: Second hand Canon 50mm f/1.8 STM (for use with the tubes, great on it's own for portraits as well) Or a second hand Canon 100mm f/2.8mm USM macro (if you really think macro is you from the start) Then Godox TT685C Canon flash + batteries + charger + diffuser (pretty much a flash is required for bugs) Tripod with invertible pole and/or beanbag (required for mushrooms) If you want more macro tips come over to the macro thread here and we can go into the the techniques and reasons for gear (macro is technical.) For Birds Well this is where things can get expensive for starters you can go wrong with a Canon EF-S 55-250mm f4-5.6 IS STM Lens as a beginner telephoto. You'll soon realise you can never get enough reach though.
|
|
#
?
Aug 30, 2020 21:10
|
|
|
Coincidentally enough I've got a 18-55 kit lens and a 75-300 usm I'm trying to sell asap, I was going to ask this thread what a fair price for them would be.
|
|
#
?
Aug 31, 2020 23:56
|
|
|
jarlywarly posted:You listed my styles of photography, do these look like the kind of shots you'd might want? This is a good post. I'd add that the 70D, and 77D go for similar prices to the T7i on the used market and are more upscale models. There's also the mirrorless M cameras, which will mount EF-M lenses natively and the EF/EF-S lenses mentioned above with a $40 3rd party adapter. Prices are kind of up right now due to COVID, but Also, the 55-250mm STM (get the STM version, it's better than the older versions) can focus close enough to do some quasi-macro. Here's a short I took with mine yesterday (although I wish I could have another shot at composing it..):  jarlywarly posted:You'll soon realise you can never get enough reach though. The truest statement. The 55-250 on any of those cameras will get you distant bird shots that can be cropped and should be better quality than what you got out of your SX20. A 400mm+ lens like either the Sigma or Tamron 100-400mm go for ~$600 used and will do quite a bit better.
|
|
#
?
Sep 1, 2020 06:42
|
|
|
Maybe this should go in the general questions thread, but I have been using the camera connect app to remotely trigger my eos t6, and sometimes instead of firing once it shoots 2-10 times in quick succession. Anyone know what might be up with that?
|
|
#
?
Sep 4, 2020 14:45
|
|
|
Scarodactyl posted:Maybe this should go in the general questions thread, but I have been using the camera connect app to remotely trigger my eos t6, and sometimes instead of firing once it shoots 2-10 times in quick succession. Anyone know what might be up with that? Is the camera set to single shot?
|
|
#
?
Sep 4, 2020 18:23
|
|
|
As far as I know (unless I have missed a setting which is possible). It only happens sometimes, and it will usually shoot once on the next attempt. I typically have it connected to a microscope and set to manual.
|
|
#
?
Sep 4, 2020 18:45
|
|
|
Shooting tethered is often unreliable the protocol used is poo poo, set the camera to single shot. I have a similar problem with my 80D when doing focus stacking single shot stops it from happening. Manual mode has nothing to do with your camera bring set to single shot or continuous etc. If you're already set to single shot then it's likely just the app being poo poo.
|
|
#
?
Sep 4, 2020 19:00
|
|
|
I bought a 28-105mm 3.5-4.5 off ebay for my honeymoon next week to use with my new D6. Sadly when it got here there's a lot of dust inside the front element. I'm going to return the lens, but now I don't have a primary lens to use for most situations. Any recommendations for an inexpensive zoom lens in the 20-100mm area? I looked at renting something from the local store but it's going to be 80-100 dollars for a week and at that point I might as well just put it towards a lens.
|
|
#
?
Sep 4, 2020 22:48
|
|
|
Big McHuge posted:I bought a 28-105mm 3.5-4.5 off ebay for my honeymoon next week to use with my new D6. Sadly when it got here there's a lot of dust inside the front element. I'm going to return the lens, but now I don't have a primary lens to use for most situations. Any recommendations for an inexpensive zoom lens in the 20-100mm area? I looked at renting something from the local store but it's going to be 80-100 dollars for a week and at that point I might as well just put it towards a lens.
|
|
#
?
Sep 5, 2020 00:06
|
|
|
Yeah, especially at the front element. You can have outright damage to the front glass and not really notice until you're stopped way down, because the light is coming in from so many directions. A small amount of dust is annoying, but unless you can actually see it you probably won't even notice the difference in image quality. Like reminder that you can do stuff like this  and it doesn't change the sharpness at all, just the shape of the bokeh
|
|
#
?
Sep 5, 2020 07:06
|
|
|
Yeah the dust is nothing if you got a great dealquote:https://www.lensrentals.com/blog/2008/10/front-element-scratches/ The only possible concern is the dust might get into the body and onto the sensor, but it's still quite a long way through every elements to get there if you are seeing it on the front element.
|
|
#
?
Sep 5, 2020 08:38
|
|
|
Scarodactyl posted:Maybe this should go in the general questions thread, but I have been using the camera connect app to remotely trigger my eos t6, and sometimes instead of firing once it shoots 2-10 times in quick succession. Anyone know what might be up with that? Sounds to me like you might have the in-camera HDR or exposure bracketing setting on. By default, if it's on, it takes the bracketed shots then turns that setting off for the next shot. Just make sure that those settings are off.
|
|
#
?
Sep 5, 2020 09:49
|
|
|
Thanks. It looks like all the settings are in order--it must be a bug with the camera connect app.
|
|
#
?
Sep 5, 2020 19:18
|
|
|
I picked up a Pentax Takumar 135mm with an adapter ring, however the bottom 85% of the picture is just black on my 6D. It works fine on my Rebel T6 crop sensor. Any suggestions?
|
|
#
?
Sep 11, 2020 02:56
|
|
|
Big McHuge posted:I picked up a Pentax Takumar 135mm with an adapter ring, however the bottom 85% of the picture is just black on my 6D. It works fine on my Rebel T6 crop sensor. Any suggestions? how thick is your adapter ring?
|
|
#
?
Sep 11, 2020 09:10
|
|
|
jarlywarly posted:how thick is your adapter ring? It's super thin. Is it possible that this lens is only for crop sensor cameras?
|
|
#
?
Sep 11, 2020 13:33
|
|
|
Big McHuge posted:It's super thin. Is it possible that this lens is only for crop sensor cameras?
|
|
#
?
Sep 11, 2020 13:51
|
|
|
Don't forget the image out the back of the lens is upside down! So keep that in mind when looking for obstructions.
|
|
#
?
Sep 11, 2020 13:57
|
|
|
Is the image obstructed in live view mode too? Do you have any other lenses without electrical contacts that work fine? Check the aperture mechanism when looking through the lens, the adapter is probably keeping the lens stopped down so it should open and close when you turn the ring if the adapter is on the lens. Also if it is an SMC takumar, be careful not to force the automatic/manual switch on the side without having it mounted on the adapter.
|
|
#
?
Sep 11, 2020 16:19
|
|
|
Is it possible the lens is mounted upside-down or 90 degrees off? Or is the shutter speed maybe too fast? I've seen that kind of effect when I take a flash shot faster than the sync speed, I could imagine something similar with the aperture on a manual lens, not opening the iris fast enough, so only the bottom (which gets flipped to the top) gets exposed with the way the shutter moves.
|
|
#
?
Sep 11, 2020 16:27
|
|
|
That sounds to me like the rear of the lens sticks out a little too far, and the mirror is running into it and jamming before it can go up all the way. Since the mirror flips upwards and the image is upside down, only the top of the scene will be exposed. It's a known issue with some of the Takumars on certain Canon bodies because the EF mount is only like half a millimeter deeper than the M42 or K mounts, and many older lenses had deeper designs than modern ones since film bodies have a lot less stuff in them. I've only heard of it happening with the wider lenses, but I'd still look into it. Sagebrush fucked around with this message at 09:02 on Sep 12, 2020 |
|
#
?
Sep 12, 2020 08:57
|
|
|
Sagebrush posted:That sounds to me like the rear of the lens sticks out a little too far, and the mirror is running into it and jamming before it can go up all the way. Since the mirror flips upwards and the image is upside down, only the top of the scene will be exposed. This sounds like the most likely culprit based on what I'm seeing. There's a small tab on the lens that sticks out past the adapter, and it blocking the mirror makes the most sense. This would also explain why it works on the T6 since that mirror is set much further back. Maybe I'll just take both cameras with me on my trip. We're driving so we have plenty of cargo space.
|
|
#
?
Sep 12, 2020 15:05
|
|
|
Is it an m42 takumar or a k mount takumar bayonet? Is it just the aperture indicating tab that sticks out? You might be able to modify it. Or lock the mirror up and use live view.
|
|
#
?
Sep 12, 2020 15:17
|
|
|
Fools Infinite posted:Is it an m42 takumar or a k mount takumar bayonet? Is it just the aperture indicating tab that sticks out? You might be able to modify it. It's a k mount bayonet, and yes it is the aperture tab along with another tab right next to it. Edit: tabs removed/filed and it works on the 6D now. Huzzah! Big McHuge fucked around with this message at 15:44 on Sep 12, 2020 |
|
#
?
Sep 12, 2020 15:24
|
|
|
I tried a 6D with 85/1.2 II in low light. AF speed to still targets was around 5-10secs. I have never used anything so slow, even manual focus is faster.. it was excruciatingly slow. I hated every moment of that poo poo rear end camera-lens combo pitifully trying to find a focus. Is it the atrocious speed because of 6D or is the lens slow as poo poo with other cameras too? I've always wanted a pair of 50&85 1.2 lenses and Canon has been the only name in the town for 30+ years. I'm asking because I'm thinking about using the lenses on my Panasonic with the Sigma MC-21 adapter. The af is accurate but slower than with real canon cameras. How bad could it be with an adapter, 20-30 secs for 1 shot..? Since 85/1.2 took so goddamn long to focus even with a native camwra
|
|
#
?
Sep 13, 2020 11:36
|
|
|
Either there is something wrong with your lens / camera causing af to be that slow, or the light and target contrast are low enough to be outside the detection range for the 6D’s phase detect af and the system is falling back on contrast detection. An easy way to tell if it’s (probably) the latter is if the lens focus racks all the way from minimum focus to infinity, then goes back to the target distance and locks. My 5DII with 100mm macro would do that if it was a few mm closer than minimum focus distance. if the camera can’t get a clear result it will just hunt for a while then give you its best guess.
|
|
#
?
Sep 13, 2020 12:40
|
|
|
It was a friend's camera and 85LII. How old the AF system in 6D is? Is it the same which was in 5D? I googled about it and some diagram said there is one "cross point" AF thing, some "horizontal" and "vertical" af points around it. All the AF points looked like small black squares in the viewfinder so I assumed there was no practical difference. Maybe the "horizontal" or "vertical" AF points (over 90% of the 6D's af points) work only in some pre-defined situations/select light only?
|
|
#
?
Sep 13, 2020 13:32
|
|
|
Ihmemies posted:It was a friend's camera and 85LII. How old the AF system in 6D is? Is it the same which was in 5D? Can I ask why you want two of the more expensive, niche lenses? Why you need that aperture versus 1.8? If you weren't using the cross point, you were definitely asking a lot of that camera.
|
|
#
?
Sep 13, 2020 14:16
|
|
|
I’ve got a 6D and only use the center point (and back button focus/recompose). It’s definitely no AF champ but 5-10 seconds seems like something is wrong. I’ve never used that lens so can’t speak to that.
|
|
#
?
Sep 13, 2020 15:58
|
|
|
|
| # ? Jun 8, 2024 09:52 |
|
|
BetterLekNextTime posted:I’ve got a 6D and only use the center point (and back button focus/recompose). It’s definitely no AF champ but 5-10 seconds seems like something is wrong. I’ve never used that lens so can’t speak to that. I was assisting a friend in a wedding and had to recharge batteries at one point. Friend had a bunch of bodies and lenses so I used her 6D. I thought that best practice would be to avoid focus&recompose with 85mm f/1.2's depth of field. Seems that 6D's AF system is not designed to be used with fast lenses in a low light enviroment, unless you use the center point  Focusing probably took forever because the 10 other points do not function at low light even if you have the fastest production lens available (so excluding the 50/1).torgeaux posted:Can I ask why you want two of the more expensive, niche lenses? Why you need that aperture versus 1.8? The prices don't seem to be too bad. 85/1.2 II sells in Europe for around 750-850€ in ebay for example. The new sigma 85/1.4 DN is slower and more expensive new, and no one sells them used. I've used manual focus lenses for last 10 years or so, so I assumed that AF systems have progessed from year 2005 (from Canon I have used only the original 5D earlier). I have the Nikon 50mm f/1.2 and 85/1.4 manual focus lenses. I'd like to try more modern lens designs and in 85mm's case of course more speed! Both Canon 1.2 lenses have aspherical elements so they should give better wide open sharpess with less coma and haloing. My Nikkor 50/1.2 gives a white halo in most pictures when shot wide open and I don't think Canon's 50/1.2L is that bad. Unrelated picture with Nikkor 50/1.2 to have some content too instead of just gear talk. 
Ihmemies fucked around with this message at 18:45 on Sep 13, 2020 |
|
#
?
Sep 13, 2020 16:40
|
|