|
What type of plants are you interested in growing? This poll is closed. |
|||
|---|---|---|---|
| Perennials! |
|
142 | 20.91% |
| Annuals! |
|
30 | 4.42% |
| Woody plants! |
|
62 | 9.13% |
| Succulent plants! |
|
171 | 25.18% |
| Tropical plants! |
|
60 | 8.84% |
| Non-vascular plants are the best! |
|
31 | 4.57% |
| Screw you, I'd rather eat them! |
|
183 | 26.95% |
| Total: | 679 votes | ||
|
Lead out in cuffs posted:Those are both succulents, so have good water reserves to tide them over from any root disruption. I'd say just repot them. Yeah, I separated a bunch of Euphorbia lactea like two or three weeks ago and wasn’t happy with how I had placed a couple of them in one of the pots, so I repositioned them last night before watering. No harm no foul.
|
#
?
Aug 29, 2020 23:15
|
|
|
|
| # ? May 14, 2024 17:25 |
|
|
AfricanBootyShine posted:How soon can I repot a plant after... repotting a plant? I have an aloe and a kalanchoe that I potted in generic compost mix two weeks ago, as succulent soil was OOS in every shop in the area. I managed to get a good mix off of etsy finally, and I know they'd be happier in it. Just repot them, as others have said. Depending on how much you need to gently caress with the roots (e.g. if you break any) just don't water for a few days after repotting. Waiting longer will just give the plant longer to root in and make it more unpleasant for it, though succulent roots don't tend to grow very fast anyway. showbiz_liz posted:Supposing you were a monster who figured special succulent soil wasn't THAT big a deal (eg, me) - if you repot in a different medium, do you need to try to remove every bit of soil from the roots before transplanting? Or can you leave the root ball in soil if the rest of the pot is succulent medium? Ideally you remove as much as you possibly can without destroying the plant, honestly. If you have substrate that retains far more water than everything around it right up against the plant's roots it's very difficult to tell how long the roots are staying moist. Using something long and thin like a skewer or a metal chopstick can make it a lot easier to get the roots cleaned off without breaking them all.
|
|
#
?
Aug 30, 2020 00:48
|
|
|
Wallet posted:Just repot them, as others have said. Depending on how much you need to gently caress with the roots (e.g. if you break any) just don't water for a few days after repotting. Waiting longer will just give the plant longer to root in and make it more unpleasant for it, though succulent roots don't tend to grow very fast anyway. You can also like briefly sit the root ball in a bowl of water and maybe give it a light shakey shakey and wash all that stuff off. That's how I separated and repotted all of my succulents and cacti and they've all done well.
|
|
#
?
Aug 30, 2020 00:57
|
|
|
A soft wide paintbrush can be helpful dislodging dirt from fine roots but it tends to work better dry.
|
|
#
?
Aug 31, 2020 16:30
|
|
|
https://amp.theguardian.com/lifeandstyle/2020/aug/31/imagine-using-liquid-water-why-people-water-their-house-plants-with-ice-cubes They treat this as a joke, but I still wonder if anyone here has a similarly strange trick to avoid overwatering root-rot prone houseplants?
|
|
#
?
Aug 31, 2020 19:13
|
|
|
^^ I will need that info too Hey guys, I just came back from a 4 day trip and luckily my dwarf still lives. I think the citrus fertilizer that costs more than a good suit (per ounce) is doing its job.  Tomorrow the new pot with drainage holes arrives and I only just thought of this because I'm dumb - do I repot it with the same soil or do I need to go buy a bag of wet black mulchy stuff? Also, how should I physically repot? I own no gardening tools and it just occurred to me I probably shouldn't just grab it by the trunk and yank. Should I go buy a trowel and soil first thing tomorrow?
|
|
#
?
Aug 31, 2020 19:27
|
|
|
RickRogers posted:https://amp.theguardian.com/lifeandstyle/2020/aug/31/imagine-using-liquid-water-why-people-water-their-house-plants-with-ice-cubes
|
|
#
?
Aug 31, 2020 19:35
|
|
|
Yay for Facebook plant swap groups. I have an insatiable need for soil and pots, so I posted five of my (many) purple oxalis in a local swap group asking for soil or pots in exchange, and they were all claimed within 45 minutes. Oxalis is so easy to grow and divide that I think I'm going to start deliberately maintaining a larger "crop" of them just for swapping purposes. I will then flood the central Brooklyn plant market to the point where they become worthless as a currency of exchange. This is how many I currently have (including the ones to give away). I split them two weeks ago, there were only 5 or 6 then. 
showbiz_liz fucked around with this message at 19:50 on Aug 31, 2020 |
|
#
?
Aug 31, 2020 19:46
|
|
|
jojoinnit posted:^^ I will need that info too You'll reuse as much of the soil as is stuck to the root ball, but you will almost certainly need to top up with new soil, especially if the new pot is larger than the old one. You should definitely buy some. A trowel is helpful for getting soil into the new pot around the root ball, but you can also use your hands. If using your hands, gardening gloves help a lot. Does your new pot come with a saucer/tray to collect the excess water? That's also something to make sure you have.
|
|
#
?
Aug 31, 2020 20:31
|
|
|
Lead out in cuffs posted:A trowel is helpful for getting soil into the new pot around the root ball, but you can also use your hands. And if the pot is plastic and is at all flexible, you can give it a couple good hard squeezes first to help loosen the root ball from the sides of the pot.
|
|
#
?
Aug 31, 2020 20:37
|
|
|
Thank you kindly both. I don't have gardening gloves but if I'm okay scooping with my hands that's fine. And yes, I specially ordered a saucer for the drainage water.
|
|
#
?
Aug 31, 2020 21:06
|
|
|
Hi how many small 3’-to-6’ young fruit trees will one 16oz bottle of Bonide Neem Oil Concentrate cover with a single application, approximately? The label doesn’t say, I can’t find this information online, and I don’t know what the gently caress to type into Google to find this out which pisses me off. I. M. Gei fucked around with this message at 23:34 on Aug 31, 2020 |
|
#
?
Aug 31, 2020 23:22
|
|
|
I. M. Gei posted:Hi how many small 3’-to-6’ young fruit trees will one 16oz bottle of Bonide Neem Oil Concentrate cover with a single application, approximately? When I've used it, I've mixed half a teaspoon (with a few drops of detergent to help it emulsify) in a 500ml spray bottle. It's pretty concentrated. So 16oz would make up around 180 litres of spray (around 47.5 gallons). I don't know how much you need for one tree, but I could cover some pretty big tomato plants with maybe half a cup or less of spray. So let's say half a cup per tree. So about 720 trees? Edit: http://www.gardensafe.com/products/fungicide/neem-oil-extract-concentrate.aspx quote:INSECTICIDE/MITICIDE USE OK, that's more concentrated than I've done before, but you should still get 8-16 gallons of spray out of your 16oz bottle. Lead out in cuffs fucked around with this message at 01:18 on Sep 1, 2020 |
|
#
?
Sep 1, 2020 01:13
|
|
|
Some plants can sunburn after neem application so I'd bring them under cover for a day or two if possible. Also fair warning it smells rank, I bought some for my houseplants but can't make myself use it.
|
|
#
?
Sep 1, 2020 06:41
|
|
|
jojoinnit posted:I think the citrus fertilizer that costs more than a good suit (per ounce) is doing its job. Sorry, that may be my fault. I did not consider that you might live somewhere it’s not readily available. Citrus don’t have particularly unique nutrient requirements. I imagine the bag you bought will last that tree quite a while, but if you ever need more, general‐purpose fertiliser is fine. Your citrus fertiliser should have a box on the label stating which nutrients it contains and in what quantity. You can use that to compare with a general‐purpose fertiliser that doesn’t cost an arm and a leg. I would mostly reuse the medium that’s in the pot if it feels pretty loose and hasn’t broken down into a fine‐grained soup. Citrus grow fine in common, cheap, woodchip‐based potting mix, but it does decompose and need to be replaced every couple years or so. showbiz_liz posted:And if the pot is plastic and is at all flexible, you can give it a couple good hard squeezes first to help loosen the root ball from the sides of the pot. What I do with plastic pots is ball my hands and clap down on the pot from both sides. Spin the pot, do it again. subpar anachronism posted:Some plants can sunburn after neem application so I'd bring them under cover for a day or two if possible. Also fair warning it smells rank, I bought some for my houseplants but can't make myself use it. It smells like Satan’s coffee.
|
|
#
?
Sep 1, 2020 07:09
|
|
|
Platystemon posted:Sorry, that may be my fault. I did not consider that you might live somewhere it’s not readily available.    It was expensive (and very homemade based on how the label feels self-printed) but half of that was shipping since Germany was the closest neighbour to willingly ship this stuff to me. Based on how much I use per mix I think this will last at least a year so I'm not bothered. Hopefully by this evening I'll be able to post a pic of Dwarfy in her new home, happy and able to drain and grow.
|
|
#
?
Sep 1, 2020 10:02
|
|
|
I uh, made a mistake. Am not a smart man.  
|
|
#
?
Sep 1, 2020 11:14
|
|
|
Tell the tree to dress for the job it wants, not the job it has.
|
|
#
?
Sep 1, 2020 16:41
|
|
|
At least with my non-dwarf lemons they expand to fill a new pot real quick. I've never done that big of a jump, though... you'd have to be even more careful with overwatering it, because the big problem with excess soil is it stays damp for longer
|
|
#
?
Sep 1, 2020 16:47
|
|
|
Just moved into a new house and I want to know what kind of trees we have. This is in Austin, TX: First tree. It has berries of some sort:    Second tree, also has berries:   Third tree with berries. I think this is a cedar or juniper? I know around here people call these cedar and I seem to remember somebody saying they aren't actually cedar.   Curious if any of the berries are toxic to dogs and/or kids. Also, any general tips about taking care of these types of trees I should know. Thanks!
|
|
#
?
Sep 1, 2020 16:47
|
|
|
Platystemon posted:Tell the tree to dress for the job it wants, not the job it has. Nosre posted:At least with my non-dwarf lemons they expand to fill a new pot real quick. I've never done that big of a jump, though... you'd have to be even more careful with overwatering it, because the big problem with excess soil is it stays damp for longer Yeah I've already returned it. Now that I learned a little something about how to measure pots (I was doing outside diameter and height, don't ask) I've learned the current pot is 20cm. Should I order the same size or go to 30cm? Obviously 40cm is a bit much. I'm thinking 25cm feels safe but unfortunately it's sold out so my options for replacement are 20cm or 30cm. Second question is if I should order the same pot or if I need something with more holes than this:  Annoyingly most pics on Amazon don't show the drainage holes so I'm buying blind. I uh, apologise that so much of my posts here are essentially "I'm a stupid person, please help".
|
|
#
?
Sep 1, 2020 17:17
|
|
|
First one kind of looks like a camphor tree or a cherry laurel maybe? Second one is chinaberry maybe? The bark looks right but hard to see the leaves. Third one is a juniper. E: 1st one might actually be a big overgrown ligustrum/Japanese privet? Kaiser Schnitzel fucked around with this message at 18:55 on Sep 1, 2020 |
|
#
?
Sep 1, 2020 17:20
|
|
|
I did it I got a monstera adansonii, and a big one too Finally I can die I guess (not yet, I still need a deliciosa, they look rad in person) Now I think I gotta get one for my mom I also got a bunch of cheap, bitty croton varietals I didn’t previously have, to go with my big leggy ones, a bunch of small indoor prebonsai, and a small flowering succulent whose name currently escapes me but I think I’ll figure out in short order
|
|
#
?
Sep 1, 2020 17:23
|
|
|
Kaiser Schnitzel posted:First one kind of looks like a camphor tree or a cherry laurel maybe? Second one is chinaberry maybe? The bark looks right but hard to see the leaves. Third one is a juniper. Interesting idea on the privet, could be Ligustrum lucida, only one I could think of that could get to that height. Bark and growth habit (especially those skinny little limbs growing straight out of the main branch) look pretty spot on. If so that’s one Big rear end privet Agreed on chinaberry, pending better pic Third tree is Juniperus virginiana, also called Eastern red cedar which is where your name confusion comes from The privet and the chinaberry fruits are toxic. However, they are also very gross to man and beast alike, and you’d have to eat a bunch to suffer any real impact. Both these trees are downright ubiquitous, and I have never heard of a dog going to town on either one. You’ll have more of a problem with the birds stripping the berries away before they can be enjoyed for their decorative appeal The cedar berries are edible but also have a strong flavor/scent that usually deter children and dogs, but nbd if they ate them. Very pretty and mature specimens btw
|
|
#
?
Sep 2, 2020 10:03
|
|
|
That does look like glossy privet. It's a nasty invasive weed.
|
|
#
?
Sep 2, 2020 16:16
|
|
|
Small branch fell from the first tree you guys think might be a privet so here are much better pics. I'll see about hauling the ladder to the backyard for the 2nd so we can get a better guess. First tree:  
|
|
#
?
Sep 2, 2020 19:38
|
|
|
Yeah compare to 
|
|
#
?
Sep 2, 2020 22:36
|
|
|
Thanks for the tree identification. Since you mentioned pretty and mature specimens I took some pictures of the oak tree at our old house when I was over there today. It was one of my favorite things about the property, but unfortunately we were renting and the owner wouldn't sell it to us.     You can also see the grove of smaller oaks in the backyard in this one: 
|
|
#
?
Sep 3, 2020 01:03
|
|
|
Those are spectacular!
|
|
#
?
Sep 3, 2020 01:44
|
|
|
Yup, that's a drat fine oak. Worth the house on it's own, I'd say. Pity they wouldn't sell. Reminds me of parts of suburban Austin, TX. You'll be in the lovely parking lot of a lovely strip mall and erupting out of the pavement next to your car will be a an ancient towering live oak. If you stand below it and squint up at the sky you can travel back in time 75 years and be standing in range land amongst a lone longhorn taking refuge in the shade of a younger, smaller live oak. It's fantastic that developers have kept so many of them, probably because cars congregate under them for some relief from the sun, like the cattle before them.
|
|
#
?
Sep 3, 2020 12:28
|
|
|
Live oaks are awesome. It's like adding a whole room to your house. They seem much friendlier to garden under than most trees. Not as thirsty and the shade is higher? Maybe they aren't as allelopathic as many other trees? The leaves are the best mulch. Here's mine, with friendly neighborhood owl.  From years ago when my yard was a barren wasteland of grass  .My neighbor took down the one on the left a year or two ago and it broke my heart, but it did give that side of my yard some more sun and my bigleaf magnolia over there shot up like 15' in 2 years. I really need to prune out all the watersprouts again this winter. It's lookin pretty shaggy compared to that second pic.
|
|
#
?
Sep 3, 2020 13:57
|
|
|
Sprue posted:Yup, that's a drat fine oak. Worth the house on it's own, I'd say. Pity they wouldn't sell. I'm in Austin, but not the suburbs. Part of the reason, at least in the city limits, is you can't cut down trees over a certain size (pretty small if I remember correctly) without approval from the city. It's one of the reasons Austin has so many great trees. The land where that house stands was originally a dairy farm. The original homestead is still in the neighborhood, outhouse and all, and has a lot about triple the size of the rest of the houses. It's great it is still there.
|
|
#
?
Sep 3, 2020 14:48
|
|
|
Oaks have a nasty habit of dropping branches. I like to visit them. I wouldn’t want to live under one.
|
|
#
?
Sep 3, 2020 14:50
|
|
|
Yeah we have a huge willow oak in the back that mercifully just dropped a giant widowmaker down on the shade garden I’ve got beneath it. Somehow missed everything except a lawn chair that I had placed there to help further shade some real wusses. I’m so relieved that it finally came down, as I had basically resigned myself to a brutal and sudden death from above
|
|
#
?
Sep 4, 2020 11:06
|
|
|
D-Pad posted:I'm in Austin, but not the suburbs. Part of the reason, at least in the city limits, is you can't cut down trees over a certain size (pretty small if I remember correctly) without approval from the city. It's one of the reasons Austin has so many great trees. The land where that house stands was originally a dairy farm. The original homestead is still in the neighborhood, outhouse and all, and has a lot about triple the size of the rest of the houses. It's great it is still there. Wow, that's awesome. I didn't know that, but it makes a lot of sense. A tree that old is worth something even to adjoining property, so it makes sense even in economic terms to protect them.
|
|
#
?
Sep 4, 2020 12:22
|
|
|
Sprue posted:Wow, that's awesome. I didn't know that, but it makes a lot of sense. A tree that old is worth something even to adjoining property, so it makes sense even in economic terms to protect them. Anybody got a guess how old it might be? I figured at the minimum 200 years, but probably more. I'm not an expert but oaks grow sooooo slow. Here is the Austin tree ordinance. More cities should do this! quote:What size trees are protected? https://www.austintexas.gov/faq/what-size-trees-are-protected-are-permits-required D-Pad fucked around with this message at 14:53 on Sep 4, 2020 |
|
#
?
Sep 4, 2020 14:50
|
|
|
D-Pad posted:Anybody got a guess how old it might be? I figured at the minimum 200 years, but probably more. I'm not an expert but oaks grow sooooo slow.
|
|
#
?
Sep 4, 2020 15:03
|
|
|
After waiting more than a month for Stark Bros to send me the Bonide neem oil concentrate I ordered back in July, and getting a notification that shipping on it got delayed again by another week, I did some googling and discovered that there’s an Ace Hardware near me that has some in stock RIGHT NOW. So I just put in an order with them, and it should be ready for pickup later today. I also went ahead and ordered some liquid copper fungicide, just to be safe. Now I have a few quick questions: 1. Is there a particular order I should apply the neem oil and copper fungicide in, or does it not matter? Do I need to wait a certain amount of time after applying the first one before I apply the second one? 2. Are Bonide Revitalize Biofungicide or Bonide Infuse Systemic Disease Control any good, and if so, would using either/both of them alongside the neem oil and/or copper fungicide on my fruit trees help at all? 3. Ditto on question(s) #1, but with the Revitalize and Infuse included too, assuming either of them work.
|
|
#
?
Sep 5, 2020 18:05
|
|
|
Anybody else having some mature and healthy trees prematurely defoliating? My big rear end black cherry has really left loose, I think this summer has just been one big rear end kick and the plants are calling it a day earlier
|
|
#
?
Sep 6, 2020 16:51
|
|
|
|
| # ? May 14, 2024 17:25 |
|
|
I'm just hoping all these cedar are just flagging and not completely gone already 
|
|
#
?
Sep 6, 2020 16:57
|
|
