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Geisladisk
Sep 15, 2007

BARONS CYBER SKULL posted:

Skeleton Horde is the "if you only get one" one

it's literally the best thing you can possibly ask for

The horns on the archaon I posted are just one thick coat of Skeleton Horde.

A guy in a discord specifically complemented them as "sick" and asked for my method.

I am a fraud.

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PoptartsNinja
May 9, 2008

He is still almost definitely not a spy


Soiled Meat
Making good use of an extremely versatile tool does not make you a fraud. It makes you resourceful!

richyp
Dec 2, 2004

Grumpy old man

Bark! A Vagrant posted:

These look incredible. Total novice question, but what did you do/what tools did you use to remove the genestealer cult iconography from the neophytes?

Thanks, just the edge of a craft knife /xacto blade. As they’re mostly hanging from chains, I also flattened the back of some skulls and stuck those over them to make it look like a hanging skull thing.


The guy in the background is a good example. Working on a Baneblade/Shadowlord for them to ride around in at the moment.

Stephenls
Feb 21, 2013
[REDACTED]







(Last two images are Carcharodon test model #1 on the left and #2 on the right.)

Problems: The dark armor patches are still too light. I remain convinced based on the Badab War II color plates that the ForgeWorld Carcharodons Astra armor pauldrons are not black, (despite all the YouTube painting tutorials and the official ForgeWorld paint job on Tyberos the Red Wake that claim they are... and also despite them being about the same shade of grey as used for Raven Guard armor in the Raid on Castorel-Novem RG heraldry plates, which I know are supposed to be black so who am I kidding?), because they contrast with areas like ribbed MkV chest straps that clearly are black, but I need to go darker than the Stormvermin Fur I used here to make them contrast with the lighter armor bits better. Might go all the way to Skavenblight Dinge; that'd let me use Stormvermin Fur as a mid highlight, which would be handy. (Slaanesh Grey as the spot highlight?) The freehand exile marks are compounding this problem; see below.

The Fallout Hobbies decals are pretty bad, honestly -- I mean, aside from the badness of ordering from Fallout Hobbies at all. I can see the print lines, the decals are too low-resolution for the shark's eye to show up, and it lacks the array of smaller shark emblems the Carcharodons put on their knee plates, weapons, etc. Probably have to learn to freehand that poo poo. If anybody has a copy of the old ForgeWorld Carcharodons Astra decal sheet, I would like to buy it from you, please. This is not a joke.

By contrast, the Forgotten Chapters Kickstarter purity seal decal I used looks pretty great. Happy with that -- it was slightly too wide, but I solved this by just painting over a bit of it. And I like the black seal wax -- normally purity seal wax provides an opportunity to do a bit of spot color, but, well, Carcharodons. Speaking of, the white edge highlighting on the purity seal wax and back of the left knee are pretty rough, but I don't care because this is a test model and "how to highlight soft joints on space marine armor" is a solved problem that just needs more effort, not a matter for experimentation.

Speaking of, and pursuant to the first problem, my freehanding lines are too thick, and the overwhelming thickness and brightness of my implementation are further creating the impression of large bright patches, which overwhelm the Skavenblight Dinge and further destroy the impression of dark armor plates. Need to work significantly on my freehand; probably a 00 or 000 brush is in order, but I'll also need to figure out paint consistency so the lines can go on thinner without running. May actually need to switch to a dry palette for those; wet palettes are nice but tend to over-hydrate the paint over time, I've found. Also need to get used to working with more, thinner layers, probably starting with a darker grey that uses a pigment less likely to tangle up than loving titanium oxide. For that matter, my exile mark aesthetics need work: "Silhouette filled with evenly-spaced hatched lines" is not very sophisticated and I am too obviously stealing from too narrow a portion of Seyni N'Diaye exile mark style. I probably need to look seriously into Polynesian tattoo aesthetics so I can develop something that evokes the Carcharodon Badab War II heraldry plates but more clearly does not look like actual Polynesian tattoos because I know those have genuine cultural significance I don't want to rip off for toy soldiers. Night Scale Studios seems to be doing it well. Only so much one can do with abstract geometric art, tho.

While I do like the effect of the enamel wash (and the less saturated tone of the dark brown wash I've used here fits better than the streaking grime I used on test #1), it bothers me how the size of the cotton buds I'm using prevents me from reaching portions of the model; there's an obvious triangular brown patch on the right ankle underneath the holster where I could not physically reach the enamel wash to wipe it off even with the smaller, Tamiya hobby cutton swabs I'm using here. While this doesn't really matter because it mostly just looks like a shadow, it does bug me a bit; a friend has suggested "flood the area with mineral spirits" as a solution, but the other solution that comes to mind is finally investigating homemade oil washes instead. That'd have the advantage of not filling my poorly ventilated apartment with atomized enamel, so I guess that's what's up for test #3.

I'm still not sure how to accomplish my basing goals. I want something that looks like the harsher basing techniques used in Horus Heresy models -- ash waste evocative of places like Istvaan III. I like the idea that any place where the Carcharodons fight for any significant length of time just gets reduced to a wasteland, beyond even the "ruined city" aesthetics I'm using for my Raven Guard and well into the sort of dessicated blasted heath the Color out of Space leaves behind. I should probably check out Heresy batreps for inspiration; I know that no texture paint has sand texture fine enough to accomplish what I'm after, and drybrushing creates too coarse a texture as well. So it's really a matter of just how much color I want to incorporate into my use of weathering powders. Test #1, where I used just black weathering powder, sure didn't work, although it did create a nice velvety matte texture that's close.

My Carcharodons Astra ambitions are fairly small. I want to paint up one (1) Patrol Detachment of space sharks, roster undecided and pending reveals of the gear options of the multipose heavy and assault intercessor kits. I am imagining a scenario where either a) the multipose Assault Intercessor kit comes with chainaxes as an alternate wargear option, or b) the multipose Heavy Intercessor kit is not a multibuild kit that shares space with the Eradicators, but rather its own kit with both a melee and ranged option like how Reivers have both bolt carbines and combat knives, and the melee option is heavy chainaxes. If neither of these turn out to be the case (and I have no reason to believe they will; I just like to hope), then I'll probably have to kitbash some Assault Intercessors with Pop Goes The Monkey Shapeways chainaxes, but I don't want to order them until I can be absolutely sure none of the upcoming plastic kits come with an official chainaxe option.

(I was gonna wait to post this until I got the base and weathering powder work done, but that might not be until next weekend.)

Stephenls fucked around with this message at 18:13 on Aug 31, 2020

Professor Shark
May 22, 2012

Finally finished this trio before work starts up:










This gin-tpoper-and-magnet-and-coin set up that I started using is working out really well!

Stephenls
Feb 21, 2013
[REDACTED]
I really like those stompy augmetic legs.

richyp
Dec 2, 2004

Grumpy old man

richyp posted:

Working on a Baneblade/Shadowlord for them to ride around in at the moment.

This one:





The Leman Russ from the other day looks tiny in comparison

Professor Shark
May 22, 2012

Stephenls posted:

I really like those stompy augmetic legs.

Thanks! They're from LaserForge. It was a bit of effort to get them to fit (the Squad Leader's leg actually broke) and I had to do quite a bit of work, but I think it was worth it. I'm hoping to use the tri-toe leg on an Assault Primaris, I think it would be cool/unusual to have it in a running pose!

w00tmonger
Mar 9, 2011

F-F-FRIDAY NIGHT MOTHERFUCKERS

whats a good source for basing sand? I had some random dub of GW stuff that Ive had for years and accidentally dumped it today

SiKboy
Oct 28, 2007

Oh no!😱

w00tmonger posted:

whats a good source for basing sand? I had some random dub of GW stuff that Ive had for years and accidentally dumped it today

Do you live near a beach by any chance?

Stephenls
Feb 21, 2013
[REDACTED]

w00tmonger posted:

whats a good source for basing sand? I had some random dub of GW stuff that Ive had for years and accidentally dumped it today

Aquarium sand from pet stores?

w00tmonger
Mar 9, 2011

F-F-FRIDAY NIGHT MOTHERFUCKERS

provinces away from a beach, but Ill check out a pet store

Iron Crowned
May 6, 2003

by Hand Knit
If you're just looking for flat basic sand, I like this method of CA glue + baking soda

https://www.youtube.com/watch?v=XL_xRxbxnbE&t=4s

SiKboy
Oct 28, 2007

Oh no!😱

Last time someone asked about basing bits, I said

SiKboy posted:

Presuming you dont want to buy a massive sack of sand at a builders yard, you can often get smaller bags of it in pet stores. Something to do with birds I think? Or possibly lizards or fish? Similarly bags of gravel/small stones. I also have a 1.65 lb tub of "dyft" decorative sand stuff I got from ikea that I havent actually used any of yet, but it should work fine. Not totally sure what ikea intend it for, possibly putting in jars/vases as ballast for fake flowers but it wasnt expensive.

Other people recommend dollar stores (pound shops in the UK, but same difference) but in my experience thats hit or miss.

KozmoNaut
Apr 23, 2008

Happiness is a warm
Turbo Plasma Rifle


w00tmonger posted:

whats a good source for basing sand? I had some random dub of GW stuff that Ive had for years and accidentally dumped it today

I use the Vallejo pumice acrylic paste, you can build a bit of variation with it instead of flat ground, and push various rocks and debris into it (optionally with a dab of superglue) before it sets.

Professor Shark
May 22, 2012

w00tmonger posted:

provinces away from a beach, but Ill check out a pet store

I can grab a handful of sand from across the road, you can have Ultramaritimes-nes

goodness
Jan 3, 2012

When the light turns green, you go. When the light turns red, you stop. But what do you do when the light turns blue with orange and lavender spots?

NC Wyeth Death Cult posted:

Fan made 6mm Thousand Sons for Epic 40k. The detail on them is amazing. Usually fan mades don't make it out of the closed circle of the hobbyist forums but for a second there people were posting them to FB groups because they could go for a mint. I couldn't figure out where to get more if I tried.


For their headpieces, I was thinking about using a small brush and lightly dry brushing white and then the yellow.

Here they are if you have access to a printer

https://cults3d.com/en/3d-model/game/epic-6mm-scale-1000-sons

Max Wilco
Jan 23, 2012

I'm just trying to go through life without looking stupid.

It's not working out too well...

Revelation 2-13 posted:

Skeleton horde is great for anything bone which there usually is a lot of; skulls, horns, etc. can also be used for purity seals. Snakebite leather is great for anything leather, basilicanum grey is great for all kinds of things, especially non-power swords, daggers and whatnot. Those are best ones imo other than the ones you mentioned. Talassar blue is kinda like blood angels red for blue. If you need a super-blue blue, then it’s good. People swear by painting nazdeg yellow and or ianden yellow over metal for an easy gold, but others say snakebite leather is the best for that. Ianden yellow is not bad for painting a warm bright orange yellow for cloth and stuff if you need that. People like wildwood for wood things, but Vallejos wood grain is far superior imo - though it is a brush destroyer.

The Warhammer YouTube channel put up this video on how you can get the candy-red armor of Heresy-era Thousand Sons easily with Blood Angels Red over Retributor Armor. Similarly, there's this one on how you can do Heresy-era Word Bearers by starting with a Leadbelcher coat, dulling it down with Basilicanum Grey, and then doing Flesh Tearers Red over that.

I keep meaning to get more Contrast paints, since I only have a few. I want to get Black Templar to do the armor for the Sisters of Battle I have once I get them primed.


jesus WEP posted:

The youtube channel tabletop minions has a good video summing up their thoughts on contrast and they align perfectly with your thoughts - black, white, and anything brown or beige is basically god-tier for contrast. I have only tried black and white but they both work REALLY well, i will probably pick up snakebite leather pretty soon

The video in question.

One thing he points out is that the contrast paints have a better effect with a zenithal highlight, and he mentions another painter who uses brown-and-white instead of black-and-white with the zenithal (although I wish there was some more information on that brown-and-white zenithal)

jesus WEP
Oct 17, 2004


Max Wilco posted:

The Warhammer YouTube channel put up this video on how you can get the candy-red armor of Heresy-era Thousand Sons easily with Blood Angels Red over Retributor Armor. Similarly, there's this one on how you can do Heresy-era Word Bearers by starting with a Leadbelcher coat, dulling it down with Basilicanum Grey, and then doing Flesh Tearers Red over that.

I keep meaning to get more Contrast paints, since I only have a few. I want to get Black Templar to do the armor for the Sisters of Battle I have once I get them primed.


The video in question.

One thing he points out is that the contrast paints have a better effect with a zenithal highlight, and he mentions another painter who uses brown-and-white instead of black-and-white with the zenithal (although I wish there was some more information on that brown-and-white zenithal)
brown and white zenithal would just be: prime grey or white; paint your whole model brown; spray white zenithally. if you have brown primer you can combine steps 1 and 2

Geisladisk
Sep 15, 2007

w00tmonger posted:

whats a good source for basing sand? I had some random dub of GW stuff that Ive had for years and accidentally dumped it today

You probably live within 500m of a sandbox for children. Take a little container and scoop up some sand. Try to ignore the baffled looks of onlookers.

Max Wilco
Jan 23, 2012

I'm just trying to go through life without looking stupid.

It's not working out too well...

jesus WEP posted:

brown and white zenithal would just be: prime grey or white; paint your whole model brown; spray white zenithally. if you have brown primer you can combine steps 1 and 2

I just didn't know if there was a particular shade of brown that worked best.


Geisladisk posted:

You probably live within 500m of a sandbox for children. Take a little container and scoop up some sand. Try to ignore the baffled looks of onlookers.

I don't know if that's sanitary.

moths
Aug 25, 2004

I would also still appreciate some danger.



Bake the children's sand in an oven.

Booley
Apr 25, 2010
I CAN BARELY MAKE IT A WEEK WITHOUT ACTING LIKE AN ASSHOLE
Grimey Drawer

Max Wilco posted:

I don't know if that's sanitary.

Bake it. 300f for 45 minutes.

Spanish Manlove
Aug 31, 2008

HAILGAYSATAN
Help that just turned my space marine into a model of Judge Doom at the end of Roger Rabbit

Dreylad
Jun 19, 2001
For contrast paint, I found this chart really helpful: https://imgur.com/gallery/mb5jHNg

Haven't bought any yet myself since I'm still just glazing everything which I guess is similar to how you use contrast paint but I may pick up Skeleton Horde.

Eej
Jun 17, 2007

HEAVYARMS
Bake anything you harvest from the outdoors before you use it, be it a bag of pee pee sand or just a pile of rocks

E: don't be like that guy who bought mealworms from the store and then varnished them to make a Tyranid Breeding Pool

Eej fucked around with this message at 00:44 on Sep 1, 2020

I said come in!
Jun 22, 2004

Got a new lightbox today, and am trying to learn how to use GIMP. Just happy to be able to have a blank background for my miniatures. I just feel like it looks a lot better, plus being able to better control the lighting. This lightbox has 3 lights up above, and 2 in front, all can be dimmed or brightened as needed.





Winklebottom
Dec 19, 2007

Remember to put sand/rocks in the ovnen when it's cold and then heat it up, but not above 100C. Some rocks contain water and can explode when it starts boiling.

Big Bad Beetleborg
Apr 8, 2007

Things may come to those who wait...but only the things left by those who hustle.

Winklebottom posted:

Remember to put sand/rocks in the ovnen when it's cold and then heat it up, but not above 100C. Some rocks contain water and can explode when it starts boiling.

Ignore this, make the forbidden pop rocks

Duct Tape
Sep 30, 2004

Huh?
Been a while since I posted what I've been working on. This month it was 5 Corpuscarii Priests, a marine, and 3 Serberys Raiders.




Last month was five of these Pteraxii.


Then before that was an Ironstrider Ballisatrii and more Skaven



I'm thinking next month is going to be a Bladeguard Veteran, some Skyrye Acoltye third party models, and then who knows what else off my backlog!

Floppychop
Mar 30, 2012

Basing materials are cheap enough to buy that I don't see it worth it to source from outside. You can buy a tube of sand for cheap or playground sand if you want something finer.

Wizchine
Sep 17, 2007

Television is the retina
of the mind's eye.

R0ckfish posted:

I got some more characters done!





Sweet.

Verisimilidude
Dec 20, 2006

Strike quick and hurry at him,
not caring to hit or miss.
So that you dishonor him before the judges



Duct Tape posted:

Been a while since I posted what I've been working on. This month it was 5 Corpuscarii Priests, a marine, and 3 Serberys Raiders.




Last month was five of these Pteraxii.


Then before that was an Ironstrider Ballisatrii and more Skaven



I'm thinking next month is going to be a Bladeguard Veteran, some Skyrye Acoltye third party models, and then who knows what else off my backlog!

These look incredible! Do you use a lot of contrast paints? And what's your recipe for the power armor?

BaronVanAwesome
Sep 11, 2001

I will never learn the secrets of "Increased fake female boar sp..."

Never say never, buddy.
Now you know.
Now we all know.
I pee on my own sand, thanks

I can link a tutorial if anyone needs

Count Thrashula
Jun 1, 2003

Death is nothing compared to vindication.
Buglord
Taking a break from 40k, x-posting my Viking boi

NUMBER 1 FULCI FAN posted:

Speaking of Saga, I just painting up my very first Viking, a hirdman. I call him Torbjörn. For winging a free-handed shield I think it's fine.

First time using flocking. I uhh. Apparently I have no idea what I'm doing. How do I coat it with pva after it dries and still have it looking grassy? Won't it just glop it all down?




Duct Tape
Sep 30, 2004

Huh?

Verisimilidude posted:

These look incredible! Do you use a lot of contrast paints? And what's your recipe for the power armor?

Thanks! My Skaven are almost entirely Contrast paints, as are the Gellerpox Infected I've painted. Both of which I posted about here:

Duct Tape posted:

Contrast is a fantastic product line. There are definitely some bad ones, but once you find ones that you like, and get used to using them, you can paint some gorgeous minis incredibly quickly.

These models are almost 100% Contrast, with the only traditional paints being their eyes and a drybrush of Leadbelcher over the metals. Most of these took no more than 30 minutes to paint, start-to-finish. The larger guys maybe took two hours each.







As for the power armor, that one is airbrushed Stynylrez black primer. Followed by these colors airbrushed through a dryer sheet: Skrag Brown, Korne Red, White Scar. Armor trim is Retributor Armor, then wash the whole thing with Nuln Oil. Finally wash the gold with Reikland Fleshshade.

Normally I would paint Korne Red is first, followed by Skrag Brown. Also, normally I put a bit more white on their armor. The result was that this guy wound up being quite a bit redder than I hoped. But it still looks neat.

Werix
Sep 13, 2012

#acolyte GM of 2013

LifeLynx posted:

I spent way too long on this, but it's my first Thousand Sons model and I was experimenting a bit. I sprayed Army Painter Gunmetal and then tried a zenithal with Army Painter Plate Mail, but the Plate Mail wasn't bright enough so I had to highlight the areas I wanted super bright blue with Citadel Stormhost Silver before applying Talassar Blue. I'm going to work a little more on the staff and base. I think I'm happy with the color scheme, I'd just like to add a bit of pink here and there to really get the unsettling appearance of these going, and some gradients but I'm not confident enough to do that yet. Do the silver edges work well? Not sure if I should stick with traditional gold for the rest of the squad.



I want you to know this looks good, as someone who recently painted a lot of Thousand Sons. My one "regret" was doing stripes on the head crests. I use quotes because it turned out good (wash hides a multitude of sins) but it would have been much easier to do solid color on those.

Under 15
Jan 6, 2005

Mr. Helsbecter will you please stop shooting I am on the phone

Nebalebadingdong posted:

ya'll ready to paint some goddamn doors?





Quoting this from downtown because idgaf. I put the tutorial to use on a model. Chickened out from going all the way, but here's the result:









I really like how the hands came out on this model - usually it's something I gently caress up really bad, but here I think I nailed it. Maybe because the sculptor put some effort into it as well?

Max Wilco
Jan 23, 2012

I'm just trying to go through life without looking stupid.

It's not working out too well...

Eej posted:

Bake anything you harvest from the outdoors before you use it, be it a bag of pee pee sand or just a pile of rocks

E: don't be like that guy who bought mealworms from the store and then varnished them to make a Tyranid Breeding Pool

The baking thing makes sense, it's more the handling I'd be worried about.

Though in saying that, I'm also going to turn around and say that you could also use cat litter as a source for sand. Ideally, though, you would use fresh litter from out of the packaging, though I guess you could utilize used litter if you feel bad about depriving the cat of comfort, or if you feel like courting the Plaguefather.

More seriously, cat litter could work as sand, but the consistency/granularity might not be right (though it may depend on the brand), and seeing as how it's meant to absorb moisture, I don't know how it would react to glue or paint.

Under 15 posted:

Quoting this from downtown because idgaf. I put the tutorial to use on a model. Chickened out from going all the way, but here's the result:



You did really good with the face. She looks really sad. :smith:

The shading on the dress is nice, and the bricks kind of have a 'cel-shaded' look to them.

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DoubleDonut
Oct 22, 2010


Fallen Rib
crossposting from the 40k thread:

DoubleDonut posted:

Well, here's some crappy phone pics of my first ever warham man.



He's not perfect, but I like him. Tomorrow I'll try out a space marine and then start painting the rest of their squads.

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