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NUMBER 1 FULCI FAN posted:An effort post would be great! I'm familiar with the era, I'm just worried if I start painting up some French unit, and then a guy at my FLGS is like "hey I wanna game out Ligny this weekend" I'd have to be like ah gently caress I don't have X corps that was at Ligny. I think a lot depends on the kind of scale (in both game and miniatures) that you want to do and what game you'll play. Basing for Sharpe's Practice is probably a bit different than for Black Powder. Also, I doubt that historical gamers can allow themselves to be that picky when it comes to opponents.
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Aug 26, 2020 06:02
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NUMBER 1 FULCI FAN posted:An effort post would be great! I'm familiar with the era, I'm just worried if I start painting up some French unit, and then a guy at my FLGS is like "hey I wanna game out Ligny this weekend" I'd have to be like ah gently caress I don't have X corps that was at Ligny. In my experience in a pickup game any reasonable unit type that could be present is fine. A lot of times when historical players want to set up a specific battle they'll build out the historical forces for both sides themselves and then loan out one army to the other player(s). So just build whatever army you like best (French) and have fun (playing French).
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Aug 26, 2020 06:29
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Class Warcraft posted:
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Aug 26, 2020 06:54
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Lilljonas Effort Post Guide to Starting Napoleonics Disclaimer: everything here are perfectly biased personal opinions and should not be taken for facts. Napoleonic miniature wargaming is great and terrifying for the same reasons - the period just covers so much time, so many nations, so many battles, so many obscure terms and so many great personalities that you can research for years and still just scratch the surface. That means that you can mine it for hobby gold for the rest of your life, but it also leaves beginners facing the problem of where to stake their claims. I'll try to divide that question into subchapters, and cover it bit by bit. Trailblazer vs Bandwagoneer This one is pretty important and can affect all your other options. Are you the first person in your gaming group/area looking into Napoleonics, or is there already some kind of scene available or starting up? It's always easier to follow the flow if you want to join a local group. Are they playing pick-up games of Black Powder in 28mm? Then you'll probably want to build your own army for that. Are they doing big collective games where they recreate battles in 6mm? Then you might want to join in by building a specific division for that Aspern-Essling game they're planning for next spring. A lot of the time you migth be in the middle, finding yourself together with a few others who COULD be cajoled into The Hussar Lifestyle. Then it's a good idea to sit down and talk about if they'd prefer the traditional "Warhammer" way of each building an army, or to pool your painting projects together into two fieldable armies more quickly. In my case I was definitely the somewhat suspicious bandwagoneer, as a clubmate wanted to play in Russia 1812 in 28mm, and he wanted to collect the Russians, so he needed an opponent. As a clueless beginner I assumed that a mixed French and Austrian army would do, and bought that (but those Austrians were far away on southern flank because they really didn't want to fight in the war and so they pretended to join but didn't really and were all like "oh don't mind us we're just really watching this far, far, far southern flank REALLY HARD GUYS, just give us a break mGAHD! That's Napoleonics!). Miniature Scale You're probably entering the idea of playing Napoleonics after seeing some lovely 28mm miniatures. If you want to start out playing smaller skirmish games, and then slowly work up to larger battles of a couple of battalions, 28mm is great. If the uniforms and the visuals of the soldiers is your main draw, I'd definitely go with 28mm. However, if your main interest is to recreate big battles, remember that you'll need hundreds of miniatures and a big-rear end table to do that. Like, ping-pong tables will barely fit a few divisions duking it out, not mentioning something like Austerlitz. If you want to play grand tactics without renting a convention centre and painting for ten years (or pooling a lot of gamers into it), I'd recommend checking out smaller scales, even 2-3 mm. Some gamers try to bridge this problem by having four lone musketmen represent a battalion strutting around filling up a tiny scaled down field but... no. Just no. It looks so bad. Especially compared to how awesome this looks:  (2mm scale battle) Period within the Period We're now ready to approach the part where we have to start make more difficult choices. Depending on your army, their uniforms and equipment changed a certain amount over time. In some cases in distinct ways that let you tell armies apart easily, in some other cases more subtly or gradually over time. It's up to you to decide how important this is when assembling your army. First of all, don't sweat it too much. The majority of Napoleonics wargamers are not as strict as you might assume from Facebook or TMP or whatever, because as always the most vocal ones are usually a minority. Most people are not insane enough to collect a separate French army for Egypt, one for Marengo, one for Austerlitz, one for Borodino, one for Leipzig and one for Waterloo, even though those armies would have unique traits that would let you tell them apart. Also, most wargamers are not stubborn enough to refuse to fight battles before 1813 with their Bardin uniformed French, just because that uniform didn't saw widespread use before that. However, at the same time, some Napoleonic wargamers like having a thematic army. That their British army looks like a proper British army on the Iberian peninsula around the time of Vitoria, or that their Prussian army looks like it would fit in at Eylau. In some way it can actually help you focus your project and give inspiration in how to make it something special. Will they be rugged veterans, covered in soot and dust? Or do you want fresh recruits in new uniforms?  (Not posted on the Russian border) Again, your army will define your choices, as almost all of them underwent at least one major reform during the Napoleonics War that included a uniform change. Often the choice is as simple as what kind of hat you prefer (Austrian infantry went from helmets to shako around 1806-09, British switched shako style before Waterloo), or if you want tall or slightly less tall plumes (Russians switched plumes, mostly in 1811). I'm generalizing here as there are tons of tiny details that changed as well, but my point is to not worry too much. In my case I wanted to do French in 1812, so I bought.... Perry's French for 1812-15. Only to learn that the 1812 uniform was not worn in 1812 because it took too long to implement and they had big stocks of old uniforms to wear out first because the Colonels were financially responsible and would avoid switching to save money and then some battalions were transfered from other theatres anyway and didn't have time to change uniforsms anyway and MGAHD! That's Napoleonics! Orders of Battle You can absolutely skip this if you want to, but it can be a nice source of inspiration to limit yourself to a specific real formation. With all the bits and pieces I could add to my French army, starting with the 2nd Division of the I Corps in 1812 for my infantry was useful to get a specific goal. It's fun to research what generals would be there and what quirks you might find, be it unusual flags or unregulated uniform options. As a bonus, you'll have "your" guys when you read history books. When I see Friant do something in a book on the battles of 1809, he's "my" general, even if the miniatures I paint are set for three years later. Before I started with Napoleonics I thought this concept was kind of offputting, as more of a limit to my imagination, but now I find it endearing to paint up actual units with real history and background. It's rather the other way around, that I now rather paint specific units in other historical wargames as well, rather than a generic army. Choosing Armies This is a huge one, and unless you're locked in already here's are my top tier options for beginners when choosing 28mm armies:  French The Ultramarines of Nappy, both in colour and in the sense of poster boy. They just have everything. Five times as many good miniature ranges because everyone collects them. Every imaginable unit type. An entire elite army within the army for people who love to collect snowflake armies - there are more gamers with a unit of Grenadiers à Cheval de la Garde Impériale than there were soldiers in the Grenadiers à Cheval de la Garde Impériale. You want to do bog standard footsloggers in dirty greatcoats? There are tons of options for minis. You want to do a cavalry force of the obscure Mamelukes imported from Egypt? There are ALSO tons of options for minis. Do you collect 40K army because you find a specific special character to be just too cool? Second tier French generals would still have been among the most famous generals in any other army. I could list ten French generals that are cooler than your coolest British general before I even have to start looking in my books. See my previous post on when Lannes and Murat personally captured the Tabor bridge using charm, a pipe, and their enormous balls of pure brass (https://historycollection.com/12-greatest-military-bluffs-history/4/). The French Napoleonic army was just an amazing torrent of military talent that took 20 years to bleed out before the combined forces of Europe could deal with it. An additional bonus is that the French uniforms were quite generic in regulation, meaning that a unit painted to regulation will only differ in the number on the flag. However, many would NOT follow regulations, so you can still do the button-counting thing and research what exact shoulder pads (epaulettes) your voltigeurs should have in the 43rd line infantry in 1809. If you want to. Collect French because they were part of almost every war in the period, because they have a ton of cool stuff, because there's so much material for research and because you don't want to disappoint Lasalle.  British The British Bias is strong in miniature wargaming, so even though they were a small player in the actual land wars of the period there's a lot of British miniature ranges. There's also naturally a ton of English books on the British army, which makes them beginner friendly for collectors. While not as diverse and army as the French army, the British still has the Highlanders as an interesting alternativ to line infantry. They're pretty well served with plastic kits, bot infantry and cavalry. In the Peninsular War you can also expand using Portuguese, Spanish, or even forces from the Kings German Legion. While most go for the Peninsular War or Waterloo, you can do a deep cut and paint up an force fighting for the Navy across the world, or a super deep cut and recreate a force for the Walcheren campaign where they did a failed invasion of the Netherlands in 1809. Bonus points for Brits is that you can also use them for the War of 1812 (which is a strange name for the smaller of the two major wars in 1812). British are a little bit less generic compared to French, as each regiment will have different facing colours and matching flags. So you need to look those up when you paint them. Collect Brits because you're a Brit, because you like Sharpe novels/shows, or you like playing gunline armies.  Austrians Thanks to the Saint Perrys and their release of plastic Austrian cavalry this year, I'm moving the Kaiserliks to A Tier for beginners. The constant whipping dogs of the era, they just couldn't refuse getting into trouble. Tenacious in battle and stout on the defence, their armies were often lost due to aristocratic generals that were too slow, too timid or too dim to strategically counter Napoleon's marshalls. Austrians have additional flavour in German vs Hungarian regiments using different pants (blue or white!) as well as each regiment using different facing colours. On top of this they had something called Grenzers forming their skirmish screens, and those all had a multitude of different uniforms. You also have Landswehr, basically badly trained militia that ranged from pretty great troops to just disappearing into thin air before the battle even begun. Finally they pooled their grenadiers into entire divisions, meaning huge bricks of elite troops with big bearskin hats. Collect Austrians if you like being the underdog, if you like tenacious but less flexible armies and if you like painting white. So basically if you like Dwarfs?  Italians Yes! Italians! Do you want to field Italians and not be the butt of all jokes? This is the period for you! Because now, Naples is a separate country and they are famous for being the worst army instead. Italians are basically French in different coloured uniforms, meaning that you can make most of the army using the same multitude of good kits as the French. They also fought well in both 1809 against Austria, 1812 against Russia and in the 1813-1814 campaigns in Germany so there's plenty of history to be inspired by. Collect Italians if you want to collect French but not be so mainstream. Other armies are nice too! But be prepared that you'll have to get some or all of it in metal, so it will be more expensive than the armies listed above. Some ranges will have big holes (like Danes or Swedes), but Russians, Prussians are top tier as long as you just look at the infantry. Plastic Bavarians are on the way from Victrix later this year, so they'll take a huge step up in accessability. Buying minis Starting out, my blanket statement here is to get some plastic boxes of infantry for your chosen army if you have the option. Here are the main players: Perry - by far the best in most cases. Best bang for your buck and just look plain better. Always go for Perry for plastic cavalry. Victrix - most of their Napoleonic kits are old and they've jumped a lot in quality since then. Their French Guard in greatcoats is a good option if you're doing French or Italians, maybe look into their Austrian boxes too if you're collecting them. Victrix is getting back into Napoleonics again, and the previews of plastic Bavarians look great, so keep an eye on them. Warlord - not so good unfortunately. I'd recommend their late French in greatcoats if you want a quick to paint force. I have a ton of Warlord stuff because I got them very cheap, but do they really spark joy? Do they? Go for Warlord if there's no other better option available. Then there's a ton of options for metal minis, especially if you choose an army with no plastic kits. Too many for this post. If you're starting with a skirmish game, chances are that one or two boxes of infantry will be enough for now. Painting minis Napoleonics taught me to batch paint. Holy poo poo. I used to dread the period from seeing tables with several battalions on it, as I thought I could never paint that many minis. Like, a hundred! Now I laugh at my previous, weaker, self. If you are new to batch painting, I recommend starting with 6-10 minis, and simply paint them one colour at a time. Set a goal to paint at least one paint per day, be it the blue on your jackets or a highlight layer on the skin. Usually, you'll be able to do more, but as long as you paint one paint per day you'll start to chew through those first units, and then you'll know if you're hooked or not. After that you can gradually increase the size of your batches, to the point where you'll regularly churn out battalions as long as you stick to the mantra of always painting at least one layer of paint per day. This will have the additional bonus of a transferrable skill that you can use when painting other periods. Painting up a viking warband for Saga becomes easy when you realize that it's about the same size as a single battalion of Napoleonics. Same with a WW2 platoon. Basing minis Basing minis is often up to what rules you start playing. If you're completely new, I recommend a skirmish game or a semi-skirmish game like Sharp Practice, where you can paint up a few dozen men and quickly get started. For such rules you'll often use sabot bases, basically a big base with slots for smaller bases, so that you can then re-use the same minis for games with larger formations. Bigger battle games usually have you mount several minis on a larger base. Older games used to be very strict about basing, while newer games are generally less so. Often you get away with having roughly similar sized width of the battalions, no matter how many minis are on there: a unit 12 minis on 20mm round bases put into sabot bases will have roughly the same width as 16 minis with 15mm width per mini. In my case I started out with Sharp Practice and painted up single based sabot based Frenchmen until I reached a point where I had far more than I'd ever need for skirmish gaming. Then I started to base the new stuff I paint on larger bases, with 6 miniatures in two ranks on a 45mm wide base. When doing bigger battle games, a big option is how many miniatures you want to represent a battalion. This can be tricky as different armies had different amounts of companies for each battalion, and also had different numbers of soldiers in each battalion. You're dealing with a range of options here where a smaller number of miniatures means that you can paint up your battalions quicker, but a larger number of miniatures look nicer. Finding something that works for everyone is important here, it's not a big deal if one player has a slightly wider solution but it'll be weird if one does 12 man battalions while the other does 48 man battalions. For French you'll probably make an army with 6 companies per battalion, so your main options are 24, 36 or 48 men per battalion. I settled on 36, which I find a nice balance.  (My 36 man French battalions of mostly Victrix minis) Whatever you do, don't just reach for some 25mm round bases that you have left over. Ranked infantry looks very weird if they are too far apart. 20mm is passable, and a good compromise if you're doing individual bases in sabot bases, but 15mm width per infantryman looks so much better if you go for your multi-miniature basing. That's pretty much it for now, please feel free to ask about anything. lilljonas fucked around with this message at 11:52 on Aug 26, 2020 |
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Aug 26, 2020 11:33
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That's such a great post, thank you! I'll probably pick up a box or two of Frenchmen and single base them for now so I can play some skirmish rules (hell, maybe even a box or two of another army so I can just solo play in my game room at home... it is quarantine after all). And then I can just put them in sabot bases to play larger games until I can phase them out for dedicated multi-model bases. Sounds like a good plan 
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Aug 26, 2020 13:36
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Great post, liljonas. If you're looking for a really nice painting guide, check out the books by Historie & Collections. They're French, and are available through Amazon or other booksellers. Each book covers a specific battle and cover the uniforms beautifully:  - - - One other army to consider, but with a caveat or two: Russians. I love my Russians. They fought against France as much as anyone, and are an absolute sledgehammer of an army. Unfortunately they changed organization and uniforms in the middle of the era, so if you're nitpicky troops for Austerlitz (1805) won't work for Leipzig (1813). But there's a lot of fascinating history there, and they're a great army to paint and play. - - - Personally I recommend basing 28mms individually on 20mm square bases from [url=http://shogunminiatures.com/Shogun Miniatures[/url]. You can use them individually for skirmishes or put them on 60mm x 40mm steel squares (or whatever) for most other games.
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Aug 26, 2020 17:11
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Those Shogun bases are cheap, dang. I guess square bases wouldn't make a difference if I'm playing a skirmish game a la SP?
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Aug 26, 2020 17:31
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Not at all. Round bases are great, and I generally prefer them. But for Napoleonics any game above skirmish scale is going to require that you put your troops in ranked formations, and square bases work much better for this.
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Aug 26, 2020 17:36
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Apparently a number of guys near me play SAGA, and I just read through the rules and it's a super quick elegant skirmish game :O
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Aug 27, 2020 02:25
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Same here. I've yet to even proxy a game, but the rules seem really neat Only thing that worries me is that it seems to require a bit of terrain to fully experience
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Aug 27, 2020 02:32
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BULBASAUR posted:Same here. I've yet to even proxy a game, but the rules seem really neat I've been dicking around with it in TTS, and even just a single "woods" and a building on the terrain makes it a fun little skirmish (with 4 points). But yeah, with that small of a map (3'x4'), more terrain would make it more interesting.
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Aug 27, 2020 02:38
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Crosspostin' from the terrain thread RE: Sabot Basing.Springfield Fatts posted:Been messing around with some sabot base solutions on the cheap.
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Aug 27, 2020 15:59
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That's pretty neat, and would be really easy to put a strip of magnetic tape in between the two floor tile pieces for a simple magnetic solution,
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Aug 27, 2020 16:23
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lilljonas posted:That's pretty much it for now, please feel free to ask about anything. So, here's a question about troop makeup in battalions and making them somewhat historical. Let's say, for example, I wanted to base up a 36-model representation of the 33ème Régiment d'lnfanterie de Ligne as they fought at Austerlitz. Is there a good way to research that or do you just kind of make an educated guess? It looks like your batallions have 1 base of grenadiers, then 4 of fusiliers, then 1 base of voltigeurs. If I were playing Black Powder, could I just base up that mix of models and say "that's a line infantry battalion"? For coloring, do you just kind of wing the pompon colors as you like it, or is there a reference out there? Judging from the Osprey book, looks like the 33rd had pink lapels and collars, which is dope. I've got that much at least. And... I'm just realizing that 1805 fusiliers had bicornes anyway, so it doesn't matter! I guess if there's one hobby I can be overly obsessive with, it's this one...
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Aug 27, 2020 19:53
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NUMBER 1 FULCI FAN posted:So, here's a question about troop makeup in battalions and making them somewhat historical. First of all you’d want to check how many of the regiment’s battalions were present at Austerlitz. This will be noted in most order of battles, so basically any good book on the battle will help you with that research. Most napoleonic games will have each battalion operating individually, as it was kind of the smallest ”gaming piece” on anything larger than small skirmishes, where companies might operate separately. Typically, you’d have two to five battalions of each regiment present, often three. Each battalion was made up of companies. The french battalion structure from 1805-08 had nine companies per battalion, and after that they switched to six companies. For French, it’s often simples to let one base, be it four or eight minis, represent a company. The companies remained the same number. Before battle, officers would even them out, so even though nominally they’d have some 140 men, in practice they’d usually be smaller. So you’d always have the full compliment of companies unless something drastic had happened, like the entire voltigeur company being sent away and gotten themselves captured. The pompoms would typically follow a scheme that differentiate companies: grenadiers/carabiniers : rouge 1re fusiliers/chasseurs : bleu de roi – the dark blue of the uniform coats 2e fusiliers/chasseurs : aurore (”the colour of sunrise”, a type of orange) 3e fusiliers/chasseurs : violette 4e fusiliers/chasseurs : cramoisie – crimson, a dark, slightly puplish red voltiguers : jaune – yellow Afaik the earlier, pre-six company regulation was really old: With the battalion organization changed in 1791 to 1 compagnies of grenadiers + 8 compagnies of fusiliers (and noting that the same colors were used in the same order 1808-1810), the de facto "standard" was, as follows (but no new regulation or specification was issued): grenadiers/carabiniers : rouge 1re fusiliers : bleu de roi 2e fusilers : aurore 3e fusilers : violette 4e fusilers : cramoisie 5e fusiliers : bleue de roi avec centre blanc 6e fusiliers : aurore avec centre blanc 7e fusiliers : violette avec centre blanc 8e fusiliers : cramoisie avec centre blanc (I.e there was a white spot in the middle for the latter ones) But because Napoleonics is insane, of course they switched again in 1810: Specificification of the pompoms in November 1810: grenadiers/carabiniers : rouge – a pure medium red, maybe a bit toward scarlet/orange red, but not like a crimson/purple red 1re fusiliers/chasseurs : vert fonce – dark green, like French dragoon/chasseur à cheval uniform coats 2e fusiliers/chasseurs : bleu céleste – literally sky blue, but rather darker than we might think of today 3e fusiliers/chasseurs : aurore –- literaly the color of the dawning sun, a light golden yellow with touches of orange and pink 4e fusiliers/chasseurs : violette : literally violet, rather a dark purple voltiguers : jaune – yellow, rather a pure yellow without any orange, perhaps a bit pale by modern standards Aaaand then you’re left with lots of Colonels simply not keeping up with uniform changes, due to money, logistics, conservativism or pride, so it’s kind of hard to pin down exactly who is wearing what when. But I use that as an excuse to sometimes wing it a bit, and use some artistic liberties with my French. Such as keeping bearskins on my grenadiers later than regulation, which some veterans would do to show off. Just as an example. Treat the madness and confusion as a resource, rather than letting it paralyze you. But that’s one of the reasons why choosing a year for your army helps, as it gives you an answer to how MOST uniforms were at least supposed to look at that point, and then you can deviate from that according to personal taste. And ooh! l’m doing the 33rd ligne too! I even went and made a kinda wonky carrying case for them:  Also, be wary of Osprey. They’re not always spot on, especially the older books. lilljonas fucked around with this message at 21:13 on Aug 27, 2020 |
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Aug 27, 2020 20:50
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liljonas to the rescue again. Thank you! I didn't even know you did a 33eme Line, I just went through the Austerlitz OOB until I saw an officer I recognized (Davout), and picked the first line infantry regiment listed after that. But also in my drunken wisdom last night I ordered the Perry 1812-1815 line infantry box, whoops. No Austerlitz for these guys!
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Aug 27, 2020 21:32
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NUMBER 1 FULCI FAN posted:liljonas to the rescue again. Thank you! Yeah I’m doing Davout’s I Corps in 1812, starting with 2nd infantry division. Cavalry is all ocer the place though, as no corps had all unit types and I want to paint every option. I also got the 1812 box first, but now I’m mixing in most of my new stuff as pre-Bardin uniforms. Pretty much all the way up to 1815 there’d be a lot of older uniforms around, and even then you’d not see the entire army in 1812 uniforms. So there’s always leeway with mixing, and honestly I would not hesitate to use my army to recreate earlier wars.
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Aug 28, 2020 07:04
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I just spent more on sabot bases than I did on the actual box of models I'm painting up next week. THATS WARGAMING BAYBEE Got some SAGA Vikings and some 1812-15 French infanterie de ligne coming on Monday, so that's my next few weeks sorted. Never mind my ideas for terrain on top of that.
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Aug 29, 2020 01:03
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So looking at SAGA, is inter-book play at all supported?
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Aug 30, 2020 05:19
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If you mean between agree of Vikings, crusades, magic, etc... I mean you COULD do it, I don't see why not. But I don't think it's specifically sanctioned.
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Aug 30, 2020 05:40
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Cassa posted:So looking at SAGA, is inter-book play at all supported? I’ve been working at a Saga force myself this summer, so I checked the local tourney scene. They’ve been playing mixed book tourneys in 2nd ed, pitching crusaders vs vikings etc. https://scattereddice.wordpress.com/2019/05/27/salve-regina-mater-misericordiae-taking-the-crusaders-to-a-saga-tournament/
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Aug 30, 2020 07:33
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 Selling off my 15mm WW2Got them for a CoC/Battlegroup project I couldn't finish.  Soviets Japanese Americans
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Aug 30, 2020 18:41
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Cassa posted:So looking at SAGA, is inter-book play at all supported? It's possible, but the books advise against it.
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Aug 31, 2020 12:01
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That feeling when you’ve decided to compensate for the low mini count of Saga by handpainting all shields:   I’m doing it to practice my freehand, as I always try to avoid freehand painting. After a dozen shields I feel like I’m making progress.
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Sep 1, 2020 19:43
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Bear in mind that shields are disposable, so Olaf likely isn't going to spend days getting the feathers on his raven just right when he knows some rear end in a top hat Saxon is just going to stick a spear in it. You're already at the point where most people are going to be super impressed.
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Sep 1, 2020 20:39
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Speaking of Saga, I just painting up my very first Viking, a hirdman. I call him Torbjörn. For winging a free-handed shield I think it's fine. First time using flocking. I uhh. Apparently I have no idea what I'm doing. How do I coat it with pva after it dries and still have it looking grassy? Won't it just glop it all down?  
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Sep 1, 2020 23:27
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Luke Towan uses a spray bottle of PVA thinned with water. Maybe tbin pva way down if you're brushing it on
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Sep 1, 2020 23:35
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That grass is a bit too long for that scale honestly, and static grass bases are usually a case of less is more. What'd I'd do here is base with some sort of texture paint, then put a few dots or patches and put the grass just in those places. Also, when your putting it on, don't just set it down; instead, take a pinch of it and hold it above where the glue is, then work the 2 fingers holding it back and forth and the grass will gradually drift out. This also will activate the "static" part of it and make it stand up.
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Sep 2, 2020 00:45
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I agree, I think you need shorter grass. What I do is sprinkle it on, then turn the base upside down and tap on it a few times so more of the grass dries standing up.
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Sep 2, 2020 01:40
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I did all of the things listed above :/ I think shorter grass is the answer Though I did add some watered down PVA on top of the grass and already it looks a lot more coherent.
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Sep 2, 2020 01:43
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Arquinsiel posted:Bear in mind that shields are disposable, so Olaf likely isn't going to spend days getting the feathers on his raven just right when he knows some rear end in a top hat Saxon is just going to stick a spear in it. You're already at the point where most people are going to be super impressed. I wonder if they had ceremonial shields, then simpler battle shields they take to battle.
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Sep 2, 2020 07:34
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Grey Hunter posted:I wonder if they had ceremonial shields, then simpler battle shields they take to battle. It's quite likely, the shields were disposable enough in battle that you typically got three shields for a holmgång duel, with the expectation that they might be chopped up along the way.
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Sep 2, 2020 12:07
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Freehanding shields is very fun, even if you don't know how to draw.
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Sep 2, 2020 12:15
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Now that ive got a bit of disposable income I'm again looking at getting into ADLG. One thing that bugs me- what's the point of generic medium swordsmen in that system? The only advantage they have over spears is vs impetuous foot while being even more incredibly vulnerable to cavalry. I get they can be good with impetuous or impact, but a decent number of armies are stuck with a core of generics E: also, how best to deploy medium missile infantry? Doesn't seem like you can checkerboard like in FoG that easily StashAugustine fucked around with this message at 15:36 on Sep 2, 2020 |
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Sep 2, 2020 15:03
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Class Warcraft posted:I agree, I think you need shorter grass. What I do is sprinkle it on, then turn the base upside down and tap on it a few times so more of the grass dries standing up. drat it I knew I forgot something.
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Sep 2, 2020 17:45
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EdsTeioh posted:drat it I knew I forgot something. I follow that up with holding the mini up and gently blowing at the grass, so that I blow from underneath and make the grass stand up a bit more. Be careful to hold your hand or something behind the model, as you’ll get grass all over your room otherwise.
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Sep 2, 2020 20:02
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Or, a thin sock (stocking is best) over a vacuum cleaner. Get rid of excess flock without making a mess (almost, you can recuperate a lot more) and makes the flock stand up as well. I also apply generous amounts of hairspray to seal the stuff when doing larger patches of scenery.
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Sep 3, 2020 08:37
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Wowshawk posted:Or, a thin sock (stocking is best) over a vacuum cleaner. Get rid of excess flock without making a mess (almost, you can recuperate a lot more) and makes the flock stand up as well. I also apply generous amounts of hairspray to seal the stuff when doing larger patches of scenery. Fish net stockings? It's the only type I have access to.
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Sep 3, 2020 17:37
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Crossposting my SomuaZuul the Cat posted:I have completed a Somua S35!
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Sep 3, 2020 20:34
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Zuul the Cat posted:Crossposting my Somua I just love those french tanks, awsome job. Meanwhile, shield madness continues    I seem to settle on a lot of animal themes, so I might continue that by giving the units different animal banners.
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Sep 3, 2020 20:48
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