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BonerGhost posted:Our electrical service line from house to pole (our responsibility, the utility will not trim trees to protect this line) goes through our neighbor's yard, under their trees. Several of the branches look not great, but I'm no arborist. *Laughs in underground utility lines.* Which is actually rare for the area, I think I'm the only neighborhood in town that has underground utility lines for EVERYTHING. Not a pole in sight in my little pocket of town.
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Sep 1, 2020 20:39
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HycoCam posted:Pull up your neighbors plat and see if you have a powerline easement. If you do--that powerline easement will allow you to trim back the trees/ensure the power line will not get overgrown. If you don't have a powerline easement--call the power company and ask why you don't and tell them you need to get the line trimmed. So what I'm getting from this is that trimming the neighbor's tree is our responsibility bc it interferes with our power line. Is that right?
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Sep 1, 2020 20:43
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BonerGhost posted:So what I'm getting from this is that trimming the neighbor's tree is our responsibility bc it interferes with our power line. Is that right? It depends on the jurisdiction. Typically there is an easement to allow utilities to access and maintain their infrastructure. How that flows through to you is dependent on the city/county rules. It could be you are responsible for yours, or you are responsible for "all lines on your property" etc. It's certainly your problem though so call around and ask. Your city hall might also be able to help guide you.
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Sep 1, 2020 20:58
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DrBouvenstein posted:*Laughs in underground utility lines.* All well and good until you want to upgrade your service, then you get to pay 10x as much to do it. We're one of two houses on our street with underground service at the end of the cul de sac.....which really gives us all of the downsides of overhead service (vulnerable lines on ugly poles in our neighbors yard) with none of the upsides (easy replacement when needed).
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Sep 1, 2020 22:20
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BonoMan posted:Yeah I'm assuming we're talking about, like, Amazon deal of the day $150 Sunjoe pressure washers here. I got a little sunjoe electric pressure washer on sale for $130 for small jobs like the patio and it works great. I wasn't expecting much and it has exceeded my expectations
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Sep 1, 2020 22:45
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Final inspection passed - the inspector walked in and walked straight out and finaled. This is for a remodel of a kitchen, two bathrooms, and three bedrooms.
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Sep 1, 2020 23:08
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ntan1 posted:Final inspection passed - the inspector walked in and walked straight out and finaled. Congratulations, I recall this being a pretty extensive demolition, do you have any "after" pictures?
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Sep 2, 2020 01:03
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:3 congrats mate
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Sep 2, 2020 01:25
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D-Pad posted:I got a little sunjoe electric pressure washer on sale for $130 for small jobs like the patio and it works great. I wasn't expecting much and it has exceeded my expectations I have the same and it's def for small jobs but easily comes up against it's limits
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Sep 2, 2020 01:52
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Apologies that the lighting definitely doesn't really help in any of these pictures - they were taken really fast. There are also no exterior pictures yet as we still need to get the outside of the house painted (which you don't need any building permits for). Also getting rid of the last trash before then. These pictures dont include the second floor master bedroom and bathroom remodel that was what I started off with when I bought the house. So give or take it's been about 1.2 years of remodeling, including through the whole coronovirus situation. Now I have to spend a bunch of time moving furniture around, and then doing a bunch of interior decorating. Job Card:  Kitchen: Before: https://imgur.com/a/IJrhCZg After: https://imgur.com/a/zf2XMCr After (Great Room): https://imgur.com/a/PIzfJ2n ---- Master (Used to be additional living room space) Before: https://imgur.com/a/vs8tVh7 After: https://imgur.com/a/LXcAu3o --- Guest Bedroom/Office/Guest Bathroom Before: https://imgur.com/a/DxMvp9L After: https://imgur.com/a/fygeZea The red room got turned into the bathroom. The yellow room had really old shag carpet that the former owner had their cats pee on. Tried desperately to decontaminate it temporarily, but it kept smelling all the way until I completely got rid of all of the carpet and stripped it down to the foundation.
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Sep 2, 2020 07:14
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Looks nice! What is that unit with the horizontal handle in the island? Convection/Microwave sorta deal?
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Sep 2, 2020 17:12
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Yup, it's a Speed Oven (combined microwave + mini-oven)
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Sep 2, 2020 17:21
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I wasn't sure where to ask this, but figure this thread is better than the others. My wife hates spiders, just truly hates them. Well, it's peak insect season and we're seeing a lot of spiders around the house. In the garage we've got lots of webs with egg sacs. To me they're super interesting, but I made the mistake of showing my wife one that had recently hatched and now she's convinced that we need to eradicate all the eggs in the garage, on the porch, in the basement, and basically anywhere near the house. She insists that I'm allowing a spider infestation to happen under our noses by letting them hatch and not destroying or relocating them. We keep a worm bin for composting food scraps. It was in our basement for a while until it developed a fruit fly infestation. I had to battle those suckers for months even after moving the bin outside, and to me the spiders were a big help. I'm convinced the current influx of spiders is partly from that and partly from the time of year, but can't really prove it. So anyway, is there any truth to the idea of a "spider infestation"? It seems impossible to have a spider infestation without some other type of bug infestation. I don't worry about the spiders and just assume that as long as we're clean and keep insects under control, there won't be a corresponding spider infestation in the house. It seems pretty obvious to me that spiders help against infestations, but for her that idea is a real lightning rod. Am I being naive or blinded by hubris here?
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Sep 2, 2020 20:06
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eggyolk posted:I wasn't sure where to ask this, but figure this thread is better than the others. What kind of spiders? If they're venemous you should be shop vac'ing the eggs regardless. Otherwise it's a bit of both. The spiders get the bugs in your garage but also definitely are leaving (or dying) when they hatch to feed on bugs outside. Having them in the garage isn't strictly indicative of other bugs in the garage. If they freak your wife out it's probably better to suck them up rather than risk marital bliss. Don't spray poison.
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Sep 2, 2020 20:22
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H110Hawk posted:What kind of spiders? If they're venemous you should be shop vac'ing the eggs regardless. Am I missing something because I don't think vacuuming up spiders kills them.
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Sep 2, 2020 20:25
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Do you leave near mosquito hell? Spiders kill mosquitos.
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Sep 2, 2020 20:28
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SpartanIvy posted:Am I missing something because I don't think vacuuming up spiders kills them. It probably will eventually being in a dusty bag or container and they breathe through pores in their exoskeleton or whatever. Basically just kills em slow. We have a lot of orb spinners near my front door that taper off as the weather gets cold and they are really neat to look at while perched on their webs. Once I even watched a smaller male try to convince the much larger female to get down tonite but she wasn’t into it. She did let him live though so next time, buddy! In short spiders are cool and good.
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Sep 2, 2020 20:41
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Spiders are cool but also if I find them in my basement, they get the vacuum. Especially when I find the venomous ones up in my living room, gloves are off after that. Taking the shop vac to the floor joists 1x a month really put a dent in the amount of spiders in my house after I first moved in.
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Sep 2, 2020 20:48
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Venomous spiders are a problem but an excessive number of non-venomous spiders in your house likely will resolve itself as they die/leave for places with more food unless you have an ongoing insect infestation. It's the same with house centipedes, if you have them you probably have pest insects, but the house centipedes are a benefit if anything. If you need to relocate them for the sake of your relationship do so, but please don't kill them.
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Sep 2, 2020 21:11
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Thank god I live someplace where the centipedes are only small and live outside, I would flip my poo poo if I saw one of those big ones inside. They are the only things that give me the willies.
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Sep 2, 2020 21:13
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We have a house centipede that lives in the wall near our dining room that absolutely wrecks any of the ants that try to get in that way from our side garden. There’s just waves of ant murder. He’s basically part of our family.
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Sep 2, 2020 21:28
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SpartanIvy posted:Am I missing something because I don't think vacuuming up spiders kills them. I am presuming the shop vac kills them, yes. I vac or spray (a little tiny spritz) black widows. Daddy long legs get to continue to exist unless they're in a very inconvenient spot like the shower. There is another type I've not bothered to ID but they spin giant webs between the branches of our trees and the ground which makes them a real nuisance if they're in the way, but otherwise fun to watch catch bugs. Never seen them inside, and only seen the black widows in the garage and outside.
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Sep 2, 2020 21:47
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My husband and I just bought a place that has a bunch of funnel web spiders all over the front windows of the house. They're cool, keep to themselves, and they absolutely wreck the houseflies and horseflies. Spiders are cool and good.
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Sep 2, 2020 22:55
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Oh the house centipedes are those longer legged but still pretty small ones, those are ok. Anything over 2-3” though I would freak the gently caress out about.
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Sep 2, 2020 23:02
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Not necessarily a constructive post (yet), but I've been working my rear end off on this so I wanted to share. We're in the process of getting a screened in porch + deck built. I, over the past few years, have been slowly building a 3D model of my house. It's proven itself quite useful with regards to furniture placement and running network cable around. Now it's working as a visualization for what our deck might look like. Don't quite have it finished, but here's the "current" scenario with a dinky 10x13 deck (that is 20 years old and rotting away):  Now here's a concept of a 16x13 screened in porch, with a 18x12 side deck:  More is to come. There's definitely some context missing. Yes, there is a door that goes from the house to the deck (left-most part of the deck, between the windows and rail). The ground slopes down from right-to-left. So the left-most corner of the screened section is like 8' off the ground, and right-most corner of the deck section (the stairs) is basically ground level. There's a service door to the garage not far from the deck stairs. Because I'm a loving nerd, I've parameterized everything I could so that I can just tweak a few numbers and automatically generate a new deck with realistic-looking rail spacing and whatnot. All the rails, balusters, posts, stairs, etc. adjust automatically when I move the base point or when I change the overall size. Hell, I can adjust the width of the stairs and the rails/stairs all fix themselves, like for example if I wanted to make the stairs run most of the length of the side deck:  (if I make the stairs run the whole length it flips out and puts things in random places, I said it's not finished dammit) I put way too much work in to this. There are a bunch of bugs, but I can make it do mostly what I want. If you're curious, I'm using FreeCAD. It's free. Not much more I can say about it, but it works (for the most part). Still throwing ideas around, but basically the screened section is decided, and the deck portion is in question. Not sure how big, or if we want it level with the screened section or down 1-2 steps to be more level with the ground. Once I'm happy with the setup, I'm going to mock up a few views to see what I like. Certainly welcome to any suggestions. There are some details like quantity of skylights, type of lighting (if any), and some other stuff, but the biggest thing keeping us from pulling the trigger is overall dimensions. DaveSauce fucked around with this message at 04:17 on Sep 3, 2020 |
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Sep 3, 2020 04:14
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I have no idea how a peaked roof attaches to a house, but almost certainly more expensive than something that's flat. Main curiosity is how you went from 4 stairs to 2, also doing landscaping at same time?
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Sep 3, 2020 13:49
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falz posted:I have no idea how a peaked roof attaches to a house, but almost certainly more expensive than something that's flat. Probably, but it'll look better. Also we were told by one company that it would actually be easier to build. The loads on a gable are all shunted to the sides via the trusses, whereas with a shed roof they'd need extra support for the roof on the house-side. And since the roof would extend beyond the 2nd floor bump-out, that would get kind of awkward. Or something. I'm not that kind of engineer, so I'm probably talking out of my rear end. To be sure, they can't put an additional load on the house frame without an engineer signing off. That would of course be expensive, and unlikely to yield any results since the 2nd floor bump-out is cantilevered already. So any attachment would be cosmetic anyhow. If nothing else, the estimates we've received so far account for a gable roof, and they're mostly reasonable. So it seems like we're OK with paying the premium for the gable roof from an aesthetic standpoint. It's more open, makes for a better view, and after looking at various pictures online it'll just look better overall I think. Also I'm aware of the little weird section between the roof and the right-hand side of the 2nd floor bump-out. I don't expect the final product to look like this, the roof is kind of thrown in just for a visual. falz posted:Main curiosity is how you went from 4 stairs to 2, also doing landscaping at same time? I'm making wild assumptions about the grade! The ground slopes down along the house from the right to the left. Much more severe on the left side under the porch, but the slope definitely exists on the right side under where the new deck would go. I'm kind of eyeballing about 1' over the 12' of deck we're thinking about, which would be 2 whole steps with the current rise. I'll probably take measurements at some point.
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Sep 3, 2020 14:54
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falz posted:I have no idea how a peaked roof attaches to a house, but almost certainly more expensive than something that's flat. Makes no difference on a brick house, you just get diagonal flashing, and it's (I believe) less likely to leak because no standing water  I've no idea what the procedure is for something like vinyl siding.
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Sep 3, 2020 15:14
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Looking on Amazon for a pair of sawhorses, found this kit that is just a plastic bracket you put your own cut 2x4's in. The review that really sold me: 
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Sep 3, 2020 16:20
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Sep 3, 2020 16:40
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I'm putting up some walls in my basement so I can move my office down there, and I've got a few question about part of the frame.  So there's that beam and post that's going to be the corner of the room, and I've got to go around that ducting. For that blue top plate, do I attach it to the yellow stud, the post, or both? Should the yellow stud be attached to the post, or just the top and bottom plates? Do I need a stud at the green location, or will the fill-in studs plus nailing it to the full height stud be enough? The blue distance is 40", so including the yellow, I'll have 3 studs in there already.
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Sep 3, 2020 20:00
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This is in the US, yes? This is a non-load bearing wall, so here is what to do: Top plate/header of door: use two 2x4s as the header, they need to be resting on a 2x4 on each side, so the yellow and green are required. Since this is not load bearing structural, nailing will usually be sufficient for attachment to the posts. For the rest of the wall, standard 2x4 construction with two 2x4s serving as the top plates, studs 16 inches apart.
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Sep 3, 2020 20:44
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I have an HOA (it's a combo condo-townhome property), got a letter from a lawyer that specializes in this kind of stuff, and apparently people who are renting out their townhome or condo aren't actually allowed to do it. The governing documents/declaration/etc. said that only owner-occupancy was allowed, but the developer couldn't sell all the units so they allowed them to be rented out. However there was never an amendment to this effect in the governing documents, it was just tacitly accepted. So now the landlords have a one year grace period before they are no longer allowed to rent out their units, or they will be a recurring penalty. Several of them are going to sue which will fail spectacularly. fuckin landlords
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Sep 3, 2020 23:38
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No matter who loses, we win!
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Sep 4, 2020 04:10
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corgski posted:No matter who loses, we win! HOAs for as bad of a rap as they get, are... kicking out landlords??? thank you chairman mao also the language from the lawyer was kind of funny, at one point she's like well you could sue us, but you will lose and we will charge you for all the HOAs legal costs obviously i'm paraphrasing a bit :p actionjackson fucked around with this message at 16:19 on Sep 4, 2020 |
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Sep 4, 2020 16:17
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ntan1 posted:This is in the US, yes? US, yes. I'd read that non-load bearing doesn't need a double top plate; is that just old information? What am I actually nailing to the post - the top plate(s), or the stud? Will attaching the stud directly to the post end up transferring load to the bottom plate/slab at all? One more I thought of - that main beam leaves headroom of only about 76" of headroom, and that's where I want the wall with the door, but doors apparently need to be minimum of 80" high. I'm guessing that means I just build my wall on one side or the other, and either use a pocket door or have it swing away from the beam.
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Sep 4, 2020 16:53
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Yup, top plates can be one 2x4 in partition walls as long as there is something above (either more wood or blocking) to tie it to. Your problem for the section above the door is that you need a header there, and one 2x4 there may not supply ample strength for a header. The header sits on studs and then the studs are nailed into the posts.
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Sep 4, 2020 18:35
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Does the 80" minimum height apply to all interior doors or only those required for egress? i.e. bedroom and all the doors between them and the exit. I've cut down lots of slab doors/head knockers to fit in basements--but not sure I've ever had an inspection by that stage.
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Sep 4, 2020 19:04
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ntan1 posted:Yup, top plates can be one 2x4 in partition walls as long as there is something above (either more wood or blocking) to tie it to. Cool cool, that wall is running directly under a joist so I'm good there. Thanks!
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Sep 4, 2020 19:16
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We're doing a largish format tile backsplash/kitchen wall so in prep for putting up wonderboard lite (per manufacturer) I found this rickety crap in my kitchen: Disregard the broken waste pipe, I dropped half a sheet of drywall on it. The "studs" are 1.5x1.5. My plan is to pull out everything that makes up the kitchen wall (the back wall is the bathroom wall) and replace with 2x4s. That would be 2x4s across the top and bottom screwed into the wood above and subfloor (or floor joists?) on bottom. It's 8.5' wide, so I figured 7 studs across (including outer edges) because the cement board can't span more than 16" OC. I intend to attach the electrical boxes to the new studs right where they were before and dispense with the blocking in the center. I haven't dug through the book yet but maybe one of you folks will know if the plumbing needs a certain clearance from the studs? Does this plan make sense? E: feel free to poo poo all over the lighting fixtures, PO had no loving taste BonerGhost fucked around with this message at 23:13 on Sep 4, 2020 |
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Sep 4, 2020 23:07
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