|
JIZZ DENOUEMENT posted:Is it safe to have a home gym on a second floor? What color is your house? (I'm bringing this sarcasm over from AI. The point is: who knows without more details on YOUR HOUSE. In some houses with some types of construction and floor materials that will be fine. In others it will not. The same could be said about "can I put a fish tank here?" How big? Exactly where? What is this place constructed of?)
|
#
?
Sep 6, 2020 05:08
|
|
|
|
| # ? May 17, 2024 21:31 |
|
|
Motronic posted:What color is your house? I think the reason this sort of sarcasm doesn't help is that they come here not knowing that there can be significant differences in how floors are constructed, or whether those differences would affect installation of a home gym, and what information they'd need to give us anyway. So maybe a better response is to tell them whether in a typical house it would be a problem, and what to look for to determine if it's a problem for their specific house? And if not possible say "it's too risky for us to guess, you'll need a structural engineer to sign off". We answer questions with no further details all the time, how's a novice supposed to know which questions need specifics and which don't? Isn't that why they're here?
|
|
#
?
Sep 6, 2020 05:49
|
|
|
I mean I agree but Motronic literally spend the second half of his post explaining why he couldn't answer the question. It's okay to have some jokes.
|
|
#
?
Sep 6, 2020 12:22
|
|
|
JIZZ DENOUEMENT posted:Is it safe to have a home gym on a second floor? As a general rule, I wouldn't do it. Squats wouldn't be as bad as deadlifts (especially if you drop), but you'd still be slamming weights into the rack to re-rack. I would expect some serious nail pops and cracks in the drywall ceiling below. It's not like you're talking about rolling out a yoga mat and doing some burpees; if you add hundreds of pounds to a bar and start throwing it around, that's a lot of dynamic forces that most houses aren't designed to deal with well. It probably won't collapse, but I'd be surprised if it didn't damage drywall.
|
|
#
?
Sep 6, 2020 13:55
|
|
|
The dryer in my new house is gas, which I’ve not used since I was a kid in my parents house. It seems to dry the clothes alright (high heat setting, timed drying for an hour or more) but nothing seems to come out warm at the end. It has a cool down cycle option that I don’t use, and I cleaned the lint trap as well as stuck the shop-vac as far down there as I could. Is there anything wrong, and if so, recommended troubleshooting? I’ll probably try to open up the exhaust and see if it has a significant amount of lint in it; the previous tenants here were really, really gross slobs.
|
|
#
?
Sep 6, 2020 15:30
|
|
|
Lawnie posted:The dryer in my new house is gas, which I’ve not used since I was a kid in my parents house. It seems to dry the clothes alright (high heat setting, timed drying for an hour or more) but nothing seems to come out warm at the end. It has a cool down cycle option that I don’t use, and I cleaned the lint trap as well as stuck the shop-vac as far down there as I could. Is there anything wrong, and if so, recommended troubleshooting? I’ll probably try to open up the exhaust and see if it has a significant amount of lint in it; the previous tenants here were really, really gross slobs. Are the clothes hot mid-cycle? You may not have cooldown selected, but there may be a cooldown anyway. You should also check the exhaust (if it's someplace you can safely get to) to see if it's got significant velocity coming out of the vent as well as temperature.
|
|
#
?
Sep 6, 2020 15:58
|
|
|
The Dave posted:I mean I agree but Motronic literally spend the second half of his post explaining why he couldn't answer the question. It's okay to have some jokes. So just don't post the first half? What's the point of making someone feel stupid for asking a question in the questions thread.
|
|
#
?
Sep 6, 2020 16:02
|
|
|
Because it’s a light hearted ribbing that would only hurt you if you had the thinnest of skin on a website that most people joined for making fun of things.
|
|
#
?
Sep 6, 2020 16:13
|
|
|
The Dave posted:Because it’s a light hearted ribbing that would only hurt you if you had the thinnest of skin on a website that most people joined for making fun of things. If it was a regular asking the question then yes, but don't do it to new people. I've spent decades in technical roles watching senior people get their kicks talking down to new folk, and I've seen the way it puts people off. Nobody cries about it, they just stop coming here. It's a lovely little behaviour and I won't tolerate it here, and Motronic has been warned about this before.
|
|
#
?
Sep 6, 2020 16:39
|
|
|
Lighten up Francis--this is a dead gay comedy forum after all. Jizz has been around for eight years--by now I think he "gets" SA? Motronic consistently provides great information.
|
|
#
?
Sep 6, 2020 17:07
|
|
|
This is some nit picky micro modding.
|
|
#
?
Sep 6, 2020 17:11
|
|
|
H110Hawk posted:This is some nit picky micro modding. No, this is someone doing something they've been personally asked to stop doing. But you know what, fine. Not worth the argument.
|
|
#
?
Sep 6, 2020 17:19
|
|
|
But if like no one agrees with you (which I’m not claiming, others can come out in support still) then arguably you should take something from the interaction.
|
|
#
?
Sep 6, 2020 17:21
|
|
|
The Dave posted:But if like no one agrees with you (which I’m not claiming, others can come out in support still) then arguably you should take something from the interaction. I already know that some people don't agree with my position on it, and that other people do, but either way it doesn't change that a poster is doing something that I've explicitly asked them not to do. We don't operate by committee.
|
|
#
?
Sep 6, 2020 17:25
|
|
|
Jaded Burnout posted:It's a lovely little behaviour and I won't tolerate it here, and Motronic has been warned about this before. You are overreacting. dakana posted:I'm zone 5a, so it sounds like I'd need the big 3" foam boards. The 1.5 inch thickness is more commonly stocked, just stack them and offset the seams if possible. If you want to use adhesive to glue the foam layers together be careful and use a "foam adhesive" as many construction adhesives melt foam. quote:How does this work with the staircase? You aren't missing anything - it doesn't work unless you reframe the staircase (and have the room to do so while maintaining code minimum tread widths). When you retrofit an existing house, you just have to be ok with not getting everything perfect. In this case, maybe you just don't insulate that part of the wall, or only insulate under the staircase, or insulate to the maximum practical value (ie - not code).
|
|
#
?
Sep 6, 2020 17:26
|
|
|
Tezer posted:You are overreacting. Maybe I'm having a bad mental health day. I dunno. I'll take a few days away from modding and come back to it.
|
|
#
?
Sep 6, 2020 17:38
|
|
|
Jaded Burnout posted:Maybe I'm having a bad mental health day. I dunno. I'll take a few days away from modding and come back to it. We still like you.
|
|
#
?
Sep 6, 2020 17:47
|
|
|
Jaded Burnout posted:Maybe I'm having a bad mental health day. I dunno. I'll take a few days away from modding and come back to it. The vibe was right (make room for all people with honest questions), the application just seemed a little too strict. It's impossible to be right everytime, and stuff is super subjective/context driven.
|
|
#
?
Sep 6, 2020 17:47
|
|
|
I accept the possibility of light ribbing along with near-certainty that I’ll get a good answer to my question.
|
|
#
?
Sep 6, 2020 18:35
|
|
|
I appreciate the feedback my friends. And for what it's worth, I appreciate your protectiveness Jaded Burnout. If Motronic hadn't included their parenthetical, I would have been put off a lot. Anyway, I don't have specifics for "MY HOUSE" because I've just started the looking to buy a house. And I'm still very new to buying a house because I live in a very expensive metro area and basically thought I'd never be able to afford to buy. So I am still just learning about stuff. Townhomes and condos are obviously much cheaper than free-standing homes, but that raises concerns about how to get a gym into a home. It's weird because I basically only have ~2 big "wants" for a property, and one of them is that I can have a modest home gym with equipment to deadlift and squat. 1. When I look at homes, can I ask for blueprints? I'm assuming basically 0% of home sellers would have these. 2. Would a home inspector be able to check if [not-first] floors could support squat/deadlifts? Seems difficult without tearing up the floor and checking the supports. 3. Is it possible to reinforce a [not-first] floor to safely contain squat/deadlift use? What would it cost?
|
|
#
?
Sep 6, 2020 22:39
|
|
|
JIZZ DENOUEMENT posted:1. When I look at homes, can I ask for blueprints? I'm assuming basically 0% of home sellers would have these. 1. You can ask, but yeah, I doubt most people are gonna have blueprints. 2. This sounds to me like a structural engineer kind of problem, not a home inspector kind of problem. The inspector's going to know how to look for certain general classes of problems, like water damage, bad electrical wiring, aging roofs, and so on. Knowing what a floor can and cannot support requires knowing the limits of the materials used to build the house in the configuration they were used in. It would however almost certainly require opening up the floor (or more likely, the ceiling of the floor below) to verify the sizes and spacings of the floor joists and how they transfer load to the rest of the structure. 3. I mean, sure, you can tear out enough of the house to shove in steel beams and then you can do pretty much whatever you want. Exact pricing depends on so many variables that we can't give you a quote over the internet, but I wouldn't expect it to be cheap. Is there a reason why your home gym has to be on the second floor? This is IMO an ideal situation for a garage. Failing that, I wouldn't be surprised if in many cases it might be cheaper to append a new room onto the first floor than it would be to retrofit a second-floor room to support heavy weights.
|
|
#
?
Sep 6, 2020 22:56
|
|
|
JIZZ DENOUEMENT posted:1. When I look at homes, can I ask for blueprints? I'm assuming basically 0% of home sellers would have these. You can, but the chances of someone having them is small, and even if they do the plans won't tell you a lot. Many residential blueprints detail layout and critical dimensions, and then builders use the building code span table to 'fill in' the framing requirements. This applies to most of the 'builder' homes you'll find, and about a third to half of architect designed homes - in my experience. The inspection period is probably the right time to ask to review any plans that exist (anything older than 20 years almost certainly won't be digital, and it's unlikely a seller will digitize the plans for you pre-offer). quote:2. Would a home inspector be able to check if [not-first] floors could support squat/deadlifts? Seems difficult without tearing up the floor and checking the supports. As a next step, I recommend that you research what framing is recommended for floors supporting these activities. I'm sure someone has done some calculations out there, a starting search might be "floor framing for olympic weightlifting". Knowing this will allow you to ask specific questions about the houses you are looking at and understand how far off a 'code built house' is from what you need. I'm just guessing here, but I imagine squats aren't a real issue, it's probably the instantaneous load from dropping a deadlift that will be a problem. There is a home gym thread somewhere, you might want to ask if anyone is deadlifting over a framed floor and get their impression. Most home gyms are in basements, outbuildings, or garages for a reason. The only gym I've ever done weight work in that didn't have a concrete floor was in a converted 1800's textile factory with a really beefy floor.
|
|
#
?
Sep 6, 2020 23:03
|
|
|
When my fiancé and I were shopping one of the places we considered was an old commercial storefront specifically because it could support a gym on the first floor. At the house we ended up buying it’s going in the basement because yeah, residential floors generally aren’t made for that sort of load.
|
|
#
?
Sep 6, 2020 23:14
|
|
|
Tezer posted:The 1.5 inch thickness is more commonly stocked, just stack them and offset the seams if possible. If you want to use adhesive to glue the foam layers together be careful and use a "foam adhesive" as many construction adhesives melt foam. This is definitely good to know because it seemed like the 3" would be hard to source. And re: the staircase, I didn't know how consequential not following code would be. I think my main concern while doing this stuff is to avoid issues during inspection down the line when we sell.
|
|
#
?
Sep 7, 2020 00:27
|
|
|
Tezer you posted a lot of good info I’d be interested in your thoughts on what I’ve heard the cool kids do these days which is not do the XPS foam and just leave an inch or so gap to frame out their wall so that they can get airflow behind to mitigate any condensation issues and vapor barrier stuff. Then insulate the wall with fiberglass or rock wool to your requirements.
|
|
#
?
Sep 7, 2020 00:38
|
|
|
TooMuchAbstraction posted:Is there a reason why your home gym has to be on the second floor? This is IMO an ideal situation for a garage. Or a basement. Even in my basement, I built wood platforms to help absorb the shock of dropping deadlifts (and I don't drop from the top) so I don't damage the concrete slab. When you think about heavy plates on a bar falling, the actual part of the plates that will contact the surface is pretty small. Easily enough to chip concrete, and could crack plywood if it landed between joists.
|
|
#
?
Sep 7, 2020 00:52
|
|
|
TheBananaKing posted:Is the same true for bolt/nut extractors? I recently hosed up a bolt on my car and have been looking into them but I'm thinking I'll exhaust some other options before spending the money for something that won't help. I successfully used a bolt extractor on a hard to access and rounded oil drain bolt. Had to loosen/rough up the bolt using a metal chisel and hammer in the correct rotation.
|
|
#
?
Sep 7, 2020 08:20
|
|
|
I want to fix the concrete floor in my basement workshop area but not exactly sure how to go about it. The house dates to ~1850 and the concrete is in terrible shape. Lots of cracks and rough areas and at least one "top coat" in the middle of the floor. What are my options to get this floor roughly flat, clean, and durable? I could live with the end height being an inch or so higher at the door, but I'd entertain a full slab replacement if that's the only long term solution.
|
|
#
?
Sep 7, 2020 15:10
|
|
|
Be mindful of the fact that your house has no footings under the foundation walls, and that the floor was originally packed dirt. Which means that, if you want to tear out the old puddled concrete and re-pour it, you will need to avoid trying to excavate the floor any deeper than it is now, and absolutely not to dig at all within a foot or two of the foundation walls. Undercutting the foundation walls can have spectacular results (very entertaining for the insurance adjuster).
|
|
#
?
Sep 7, 2020 18:46
|
|
|
mcgreenvegtables posted:I want to fix the concrete floor in my basement workshop area but not exactly sure how to go about it. The house dates to ~1850 and the concrete is in terrible shape. Lots of cracks and rough areas and at least one "top coat" in the middle of the floor. How far out of flat is it? One option is to pour self-level on top... however you'd need a ton of self level for that, and each bag is like $50. Also, self-level is not a finish surfact, you'd still need to put something on top. If it were me, I'd give it a coat of paint (to seal it up a little and reduce dust), and then lay some sort of garage floor tile on top (swisstrax is the $$$ option there).
|
|
#
?
Sep 7, 2020 19:22
|
|
|
Definitely mindful of foundation issues. Not going to be digging anywhere near the fieldstone walls. The floor is way too uneven to apply any sort of tile system with acceptable results. I need to refinish the surface in some way. I do'nt care if its ever truly level, but it needs to be flat. My main concern is that if I just pour something new over the old its going to crack and break apart like whatever is there now. Is there any middle ground between a complete tear out and just dumping new material ontop and hoping for the best?
|
|
#
?
Sep 8, 2020 01:06
|
|
|
Boliver_Shagnasty posted:So I just moved into a new place. I switched the utility accounts to my name, and while I was moving in, I realized I have no hot water. I went down to the basement and the pilot light on my water heater had gone out. I reset it without any hiccups and reset it to the temp that it was set to before. It’s a gas water heater with an electronic gas valve that’s upwards of 10 years old. Ever since then, the water is just not coming out that hot. I’ve incrementally increased the temp setting, and while it’s gotten better and feels warmer, I’ve maxed the setting and it’s still not that hot. Depending on which sink/shower I try, some feel hotter than others. Especially when I go to the second floor bathroom, it doesn’t feel very warm. Does your water heater have a vacation mode? I only ask because the hot water crapped out after one day in my new house and I thought maybe the pilot light had gone during the utilities hand off. Nope, vacation mode.
|
|
#
?
Sep 8, 2020 01:52
|
|
|
When redoing a basement, what's the best way to insulate very hard to reach joist bays? E.g. HVAC running right in front of it.
|
|
#
?
Sep 8, 2020 02:08
|
|
|
mcgreenvegtables posted:Definitely mindful of foundation issues. Not going to be digging anywhere near the fieldstone walls. Concrete cracks. You can control where it cracks with some relief cuts, but you can't really prevent it cracking. One option would be to grind the surface off the concrete to flatten it out. This might not be enough depending on how far the surface is out, and is a *horrible* job. I'm not sure I'd recommend it in a basement, when they did it to my garage everything was covered in concrete dust for weeks. You might end up with enough dust floating up into your house to make you miserable.
|
|
#
?
Sep 8, 2020 02:32
|
|
|
mcgreenvegtables posted:Definitely mindful of foundation issues. Not going to be digging anywhere near the fieldstone walls. Schluter ditra uncoupling membrane is designed to reduce cracking in tile flooring installation. Might work but will increase costs. https://www.schluter.com/schluter-us/en_US/Membranes/Uncoupling-(DITRA)/Schluter%C2%AE-DITRA-&-DITRA-XL/p/DITRA#tab0
|
|
#
?
Sep 8, 2020 03:08
|
|
|
I drilled too far into my walls yesterday and put some hugeass holes into the other side. How do I fix this?
|
|
#
?
Sep 8, 2020 04:18
|
|
|
mcgreenvegtables posted:Definitely mindful of foundation issues. Not going to be digging anywhere near the fieldstone walls. How much height could you comfortably give up to this? Does the result need to be concrete? Could you frame and board over it? (I don't know if moisture would cause an issue under there)
|
|
#
?
Sep 8, 2020 06:13
|
|
|
Any suggestions for getting mineral oil off concrete?
|
|
#
?
Sep 8, 2020 15:41
|
|
|
I need to replace the soap dispenser in my kitchen sink. That means removing the existing dispenser, which has a brass nut holding it in: It's too tight for me to hand-loosen, and the under-sink space is tight enough that I can't manage to get a wrench in there. Any suggestions?
|
|
#
?
Sep 8, 2020 16:32
|
|
|
|
| # ? May 17, 2024 21:31 |
|
|
Tube spanner maybe?
|
|
#
?
Sep 8, 2020 16:44
|
|
