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I love the new type R, but i hate how it looks. Is there a way to put new bumpers or body panels on it to look more subtle?
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Sep 6, 2020 16:02
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DildenAnders posted:What is the point of an overdrive off switch? Turning overdrive off puts our car into lower gears, which can be helpful in low traction or going up or down inclines. I usually turn mine off when going down an incline to help keep my speed from going too fast while not riding the brakes. It's especially useful for towing situations.
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Sep 6, 2020 16:19
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GOD IS BED posted:especially useful for towing situations. This. On something without a towing mode, slamming it into overdrive tends to lug the poo poo out of the engine once it hits 4th if you have a good bit of weight behind it. Then you wind up hunting between 3rd and 4th, which isn't good for anything. Newer trucks, at least heavy duty ones (I haven't driven a 1/2 ton in a long time, so no idea if this is a thing on those too), tend to have a tow mode that will cause it to hold gears much longer under lighter throttle (and downshift much more aggressively for engine braking while slowing down), so it's kinda pointless on those unless you just really want to hold that gear. It's primarily a thing on 4 speed autos. I think newer ones still have a (D) and D mode, which is essentially the same as disabling the tallest gear. Why, I'm not sure, when just about everything out there has anywhere from a 6-10 speed auto now, with much smarter electronics.
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Sep 6, 2020 16:44
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DildenAnders posted:What is the point of an overdrive off switch? To add to this, NOT using that switch on the previous gen ford trucks while plowing seems to lead to some very, very rapid transmission damage. Not sure if that's the case on the current gen.
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Sep 6, 2020 17:52
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My stepdad's 92 would pop the TCM fuse every time you sneezed at that switch. It took out a lot of the shifting (I think it would just go from 1st to 3rd?) and the cluster. I don't think the odometer would even count miles, but it's been a good 15 years since I drove that heap. His 01 handled the act of using that switch fine, it just exploded the transmissions on the regular. I think it was on its 4th or 5th by 140k (just gonna leave one acronym here that should say it all... AAMCO)
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Sep 6, 2020 18:07
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It reduces trans gear hunting at highway speed when towing, which is directly related to reducing the amount of slippage you allow on the clutches for the gears you're using and thus reduces the chances of blowing up the trans. Depending on the manufacturer it may also adjust the trans shift map, line pressure, etc etc etc to accomplish other related things all aimed at improving trans durability while towing.
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Sep 6, 2020 18:25
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Yeah, a pure "overdrive off" switch is just another means to lock out one or more of the highest gears in the transmission. Automatics are programmed by whatever means they have to shift into the highest viable gear for a given situation, but there are times when that is not desired. As already said, usually downhill or when towing / hauling very heavy loads. The other times I've used it are when climbing steep grades, to keep the transmission from shifting around every time I let up on the throttle a little. As far as why a switch? Design choice by the manufacturer for some reason or another. My old Volvo had, and my C10 currently has, four speed automatics. The Volvo had PRND21 on the shifter with an overdrive switch, the C10 has PRND321. D with the switch engaged on the Volvo, and 3 on the C10, are the same thing. In the Volvo's case I'd bet the transmission design started life as a three speed auto. My '13 CRV and '03 Grand Cherokee both had OD switches, which would actually lock out the top two gears. It was kind of annoying on the CR-V, fourth would have been perfect for the hillclimb I mentioned earlier. My newest automatic ('18 Canyon with a six speed) just has PRNDM, with +/- switches on the side of the shifter when you're in M. I've never used them beyond verifying that yes, it works, because: STR posted:Newer trucks, at least heavy duty ones (I haven't driven a 1/2 ton in a long time, so no idea if this is a thing on those too), tend to have a tow mode that will cause it to hold gears much longer under lighter throttle (and downshift much more aggressively for engine braking while slowing down) This. On my Canyon the "exhaust brake" button also engages the towing program in the transmission, and it is wildly different than the normal program. Much later upshifts, much earlier and more aggressive downshifts. It's awesome and if you're not in a hurry, you can pretty much ignore the brake pedal until you need to fully stop.
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Sep 6, 2020 18:29
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wolrah posted:Wasn't it a thing for a while to convert those old 350 diesels to gas because they had some sturdier parts in 'em, apparently not good enough for diesel use but better than the regular gas models? It was more of a thing back when there were tons of the Olds diesels sitting around. Bear in mind I have no first-hand experience with it, but from my research it seems like the diesel block can safely be bored .125"/3.2mm oversize with absolutely no side effects (as far as running it is concerned). I believe Mondello used to offer a kit for the conversion (I think it took it from a 350 small block to a 440 if you did the full overbore, but don't hold me to that). You can also leave the bottom end intact and swap heads/intake/cam etc. and run as is for a stupidly beefy (and heavy) small block that shouldn't turn very high rpms. General consensus these days seems to be that unless you have the parts lying around to do that, just buy a different motor so you don't end up in custom parts land. Fake edit: here's a somewhat recent article on converting one of the diesels over to gas. It's also one of the few I've read that correctly describes the diesel as being based on its gas counterpart, not converted from. https://www.hotrod.com/articles/wise-performance-engineering-465ci-oldsmobile-engine/
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Sep 6, 2020 22:40
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Long story short, some asshat parked in such a position that in order to get my car out, I ended up rubbing on a plywood barrier in the parking lot, painted with what I'd guess is latex house paint. Not a deep scuff (I didn't even know I rubbed it until I got home and said "aw, gently caress!" because I was doing 0.0004 mph getting out of this insanely tight spot). But now I got a big white schmear on my navy blue car. Saw some youtube videos saying I can remove paint transfer with wd40 and a magic eraser. Bought magic eraser on my way from work today, and looking at the box now, it says "NOT FOR USE ON CAR BODIES". Yes? No? Advice? It's a 2001 Cavalier, I'm not terribly concerned if I gently caress her up, but she does look good for age and I'd like to keep her that way.
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Sep 6, 2020 23:02
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Wasn't there an A/C thread? I can't find it.
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Sep 6, 2020 23:04
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JacquelineDempsey posted:Long story short, some asshat parked in such a position that in order to get my car out, I ended up rubbing on a plywood barrier in the parking lot, painted with what I'd guess is latex house paint. Not a deep scuff (I didn't even know I rubbed it until I got home and said "aw, gently caress!" because I was doing 0.0004 mph getting out of this insanely tight spot). But now I got a big white schmear on my navy blue car. Do not use a Magic Eraser. That's some pinterest poo poo. It's an abrasive and will scuff your paint. You want a clay bar or a synthetic clay mat. Hit it first with some rubbing alcohol or similar and I bet even that gets most of the paint off. When you clay use either detailing spray or soapy water to lubricate the area.
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Sep 6, 2020 23:39
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kid sinister posted:Wasn't there an A/C thread? I can't find it. It seems to have been closed and I can't find the replacement thread? https://forums.somethingawful.com/showthread.php?noseen=1&threadid=3888018&pagenumber=7&perpage=40#post505859193
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Sep 6, 2020 23:52
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Charles posted:It seems to have been closed and I can't find the replacement thread? Yo Motronic, what's up?
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Sep 7, 2020 01:24
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kid sinister posted:Yo Motronic, what's up? I'm not providing curated content to a lowtax owned site. Happy to answer any questions you have here though. OP content has been dumped onto my lovely blog: http://blarg.introspect.net/
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Sep 7, 2020 01:51
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Motronic posted:I'm not providing curated content to a lowtax owned site. Happy to answer any questions you have here though. OP content has been dumped onto my lovely blog: http://blarg.introspect.net/
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Sep 7, 2020 01:56
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Motronic posted:I'm not providing curated content to a lowtax owned site. Happy to answer any questions you have here though. OP content has been dumped onto my lovely blog: http://blarg.introspect.net/ That's cool I guess. I had an AC situation that I can't figure out if you don't mind. It's not on any of the gauge troubleshooting charts that I can find. 1997 Ford F250 HD. It was short cycling, so I filled it back up. Low side is normal (25 psi), high side is too high (300 psi). However, once the engine is off and the system equalizes, the pressures are still too low for the outside temperature. It was 90F here today and my gauges showed 28.5C equalized. I did notice that once I took the cap off the high side port, it was leaking. I saw bubbling and I could put my thumb over that port. I could feel the pressure building under my thumb until the metal got too hot to touch. I have a feeling that I have multiple issues.
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Sep 7, 2020 02:36
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kid sinister posted:That's cool I guess. I had an AC situation that I can't figure out if you don't mind. It's not on any of the gauge troubleshooting charts that I can find. 1997 Ford F250 HD. It was short cycling, so I filled it back up. Low side is normal (25 psi), high side is too high (300 psi). However, once the engine is off and the system equalizes, the pressures are still too low for the outside temperature. It was 90F here today and my gauges showed 28.5C equalized. Sounds like you have a clog. From what I remember those are accumulator/cap tube systems, so I'd start with an evac and open that thing up to replace the cap tube. It's the most likely culprit. If it's full of black stuff......uhhhh, well, sorry. (because your compressor is dying and you're gonna need to flush the entire system and replace a bunch of crap including the compressor) If you can get it working with just the cap tube change and you expect to keep this truck around for more than a few years I would suggest opening it up again and replacing the accumulator.
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Sep 7, 2020 02:45
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also replace the service valve cores if they are leaking, obv.
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Sep 7, 2020 02:52
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MRC48B posted:also replace the service valve cores if they are leaking, obv. Oh yeah, he did say that, thanks for calling it out. Definitely replace those while you have the system evaced.
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Sep 7, 2020 03:00
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I always replace the valve cores right before evacuation because the cores only keep pressure in, not vacuum. So if you evacuate, replace cores, then evacuate again, you are basically letting a full system worth of outside air and humidity in for no reason. Unless you have one of those nifty core replacement tools that allows you to do it without opening the system, of course, but I don't own one of those for r134a ports, only r410a.
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Sep 7, 2020 03:43
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kastein posted:Unless you have one of those nifty core replacement tools that allows you to do it without opening the system That is my favorite trick AC tool that has bailed out so many people.
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Sep 7, 2020 04:18
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kastein posted:I always replace the valve cores right before evacuation because the cores only keep pressure in, not vacuum. So if you evacuate, replace cores, then evacuate again, you are basically letting a full system worth of outside air and humidity in for no reason. Unless you have one of those nifty core replacement tools that allows you to do it without opening the system, of course, but I don't own one of those for r134a ports, only r410a. idgi, what else are you supposed to do when you don't have one of those tools other than evacuate first before replacing? Surely not venting to the atmosphere?
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Sep 7, 2020 09:20
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spankmeister posted:idgi, what else are you supposed to do when you don't have one of those tools other than evacuate first before replacing? Surely not venting to the atmosphere? I think Ken's talking about vacing the system down here, not recovering refrigerant.
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Sep 7, 2020 15:13
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The real trick would be if a shade tree mechanic could remove and recover the R134 at home...
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Sep 7, 2020 15:29
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I mean, you totally could. Recovery machines and cylinders are available from Jeff or other online vendors. Low end to get started is going to be like 6 hundred. 8 with a vacuum pump and gauges
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Sep 7, 2020 15:55
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I'll take it to a shop and have it evacuated tomorrow. Then I can open it up and check out that orifice tube. I got a vacuum pump, so I can see if that was the only leak. If I open it up, then I will need to replace the accumulator, right? Will I have to add oil too? If so, how much? Does the vacuum suck that out as well?
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Sep 7, 2020 18:02
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kid sinister posted:I'll take it to a shop and have it evacuated tomorrow. Then I can open it up and check out that orifice tube. I got a vacuum pump, so I can see if that was the only leak. Vac should not change the amount of oil. Yes, long term you should replace the accumulator because that's what's got the desiccant in it, but to be on the safe side I'd make sure that's not your only problem first. How to make the decision to replace the accumulator right away or recharge to test the system first really comes down to what you find when you open it up.
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Sep 7, 2020 18:28
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My car battery on my 2012 Jetta just died and when looking online about buying one I saw I may need to take it to a dealership to have it done because my keys wont work (keyless entry) because the memory won't be saved or something?. I only saw one thing about it and am not a car guy at all so I don't know how true this is, I've always just installed batteries normally but not on this car yet.
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Sep 7, 2020 20:20
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Bruc posted:My car battery on my 2012 Jetta just died and when looking online about buying one I saw I may need to take it to a dealership to have it done because my keys wont work (keyless entry) because the memory won't be saved or something?. I only saw one thing about it and am not a car guy at all so I don't know how true this is, I've always just installed batteries normally but not on this car yet. If nobody in this thread has the answer, there's also a VW thread too, worth cross-posting to. https://forums.somethingawful.com/showthread.php?threadid=3298776
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Sep 7, 2020 20:37
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Bruc posted:My car battery on my 2012 Jetta just died and when looking online about buying one I saw I may need to take it to a dealership to have it done because my keys wont work (keyless entry) because the memory won't be saved or something?. I only saw one thing about it and am not a car guy at all so I don't know how true this is, I've always just installed batteries normally but not on this car yet. The battery store I work at has a little battery box that plugs into your car's OBDII port while the battery is replaced. Because there's still current getting to the computer, all settings are preserved. Disclaimer: last time I used it was on my car, and while the radio settings were saved, the car's computer reset; so it doesn't always work. I don't remember about a 2012 Jetta having that problem, but I'm not at work today so I can't double check. I know I've swapped many Jetta batteries of that era without using a battery box with no issues. I'll double check myself tomorrow if no one else has chimed in by then.
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Sep 7, 2020 23:29
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The AUX port on my 2011 Honda Civic seems to be broken. It can't detect when a jack is plugged in anymore, which I've confirmed by testing multiple different jacks on it. Supposedly you can replace it with a new part, but I don't know how reliable that fix is. If I do go with that fix, where do I get the part I need? Will this work, or do I need to go to a Honda dealership for a replacement or something?
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Sep 7, 2020 23:39
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Motronic posted:Vac should not change the amount of oil. Yes, long term you should replace the accumulator because that's what's got the desiccant in it, but to be on the safe side I'd make sure that's not your only problem first. How to make the decision to replace the accumulator right away or recharge to test the system first really comes down to what you find when you open it up. ...but I gotta open it up to check out the orifice tube. So.... I should open it up, check out the orifice tube, pray that the compressor didn't poo poo itself, put it back together with the original accumulator, then see if it holds vacuum? Then if it does hold vacuum, put a new accumulator on and vac it again?
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Sep 8, 2020 03:24
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kid sinister posted:...but I gotta open it up to check out the orifice tube. So.... I should open it up, check out the orifice tube, pray that the compressor didn't poo poo itself, put it back together with the original accumulator, then see if it holds vacuum? That at a minimum. Depending on what you find I might be tempted to put at least enough refrigerant in it to see if the pressures look plausible (i.e. no more clog), get it evaced again, then replace the accumulator, vac and fill. But again, this depends on what you find when it's open as well as how much the accumulator costs compared to another evac.
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Sep 8, 2020 03:40
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I didn't see a bodywork thread, so I suppose I'll ask here  What's the right way to paint my project car's floor pan? The surface is a patchwork: It has had some professional major rust repair that's painted with a two-part epoxy primer. Other parts with minor rust I ground to bare metal and painted with POR-15 and/or possibly Rustoleum (I was younger then, good paint was expensive). Other parts still have the original paint. Other parts have original paint covered with POR-15 and/or Rustoleum. Other parts still are bare metal with some surface rust awaiting paint. I recently discovered the paint adhesion isn't great everywhere. I power washed the floor this weekend and some paint came off in a few areas, revealing bare metal that I painted over with either POR or Rustoleum. Yikes. Clearly I need to re-do the floor but I could use some direction. I'm not concerned about looks, I just want corrosion protection. What's the right thing to do here? Thanks!
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Sep 8, 2020 08:11
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Also interested in what the current best way to sealing raw metal is.
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Sep 8, 2020 08:25
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I'm looking for a 4x8 or 5x8 utility trailer. Mostly it'll be used for moving my zero turn mower around, with the occasional hardware store run. Is there a consensus on the Harbor Freight or Northern Tool Ironton trailer kits? I really like the idea of getting the 4x8 foldable trailer for storage reasons but that's going to be a tight fit with my mower on it. Northern Tool has their trailers on sale right now, so $350 for the 4x8 folding one or $450 for the 5x8 non-folding.
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Sep 8, 2020 13:41
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I bought that trailer (HF) for the same reason, and the folding function was inconvenient enough that I never once folded it. Also it has no sides, which means if you’re barely fitting your mower on it, as I was, it looks and feels suuuuuper sketch. I was doing basically exactly what you are, only real difference is that my mower wasn’t z turn. I very much disliked every moment with that trailer and sold it first chance I got. Check the tools thread for a similar discussion about that trailer and, importantly, more notes about the highway unworthiness of that thing. That is, if you do buy it, don’t ever take it over like 50mph. e: Oh, and the wiring rotted out within six months. In the end I picked up a slightly larger rigid Carry-On trailer from Tractor Supply. It’s been fantastic. Bonus: built in ramp. Bad Munki fucked around with this message at 13:57 on Sep 8, 2020 |
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Sep 8, 2020 13:52
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Bad Munki posted:I bought that trailer (HF) for the same reason, and the folding function was inconvenient enough that I never once folded it. The Ironton appears to be a little better quality than the HF one, but it's still probably similar enough to have the same drawbacks. Good to hear that you like the Carry-On, that's probably what I'll end up getting if I can find one nearby. Thanks a lot!
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Sep 8, 2020 14:05
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Pollyanna posted:The AUX port on my 2011 Honda Civic seems to be broken. It can't detect when a jack is plugged in anymore, which I've confirmed by testing multiple different jacks on it. Supposedly you can replace it with a new part, but I don't know how reliable that fix is. That'll work fine.
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Sep 8, 2020 14:12
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STR posted:That'll work fine. Thanks, ordered. Hopefully I can get this completely fixed before my 3.5 hour drive on Saturday 
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Sep 8, 2020 14:29
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