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Yooper posted:Dewalt 735 question. I'm planing northern white cedar, about 1/32 per pass, 8" wide boards, standard blades (very sharp). It'll plane a couple of boards beautifully then the drive wheels are unable to propel the next one. It'll spin and leave black marks and I can push-pull it through, but I'm at a loss as to what is happening. I've cleaned the rollers, waxed the bed, cleaned everything. The really odd part is it always happens on the same boards. I struggled through the pile, but it was really frustrating. I had the same issue several years ago when I planed a whole bunch of northern white cedar for a fence. I never did solve it, just got used to having to push/pull some boards through. I also found when planing the cedar the breaker would trip every now and then, that never happened on harder woods or anything, only the cedar 
Meow Meow Meow fucked around with this message at 19:19 on Sep 14, 2020 |
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Sep 14, 2020 19:15
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Meow Meow Meow posted:I had the same issue several years ago when I planed a whole bunch of northern white cedar for a fence. I never did solve it, just got used to having to push/pull some boards through. I also found when planing the cedar the breaker would trip every now and then, that never happened on harder woods or anything, only the cedar Huh, weird. Oh well, I've only got a few more boards to plane up and I should be good. It seems a bit better if I run the board through right on the very outside of the tray. I've tried skewed and it didn't seem to make much difference.
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Sep 14, 2020 19:45
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ColdPie posted:It's challenging to cut, and more challenging to cut well. I did breadboard ends on my dining table last year. I used a full size handsaw to cut the tenon. I used a long, straight piece of wood to guide the saw, and tape on the sawplate as a depth indicator. Then used a chisel to chip off the bulk of the waste, and cleaned it up with a rabbet block plane. Finally I used a coping saw to remove the waste between the deep tenons where the dowels go. For the mortise in the breadboard end, I used a plow plane to cut the bulk of the mortise and a mortising chisel to cut the mortises for the deep tenons. I absolutely love your table. Is there a good woodworking resource for things like table frames and the like?
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Sep 14, 2020 23:26
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KKKLIP ART posted:I absolutely love your table. Is there a good woodworking resource for things like table frames and the like? Thank you. My favorite intro to woodworking is The Essential Woodworker. The technique sections focus exclusively on hand tools, but it also contain introductions to every part of building tables (top, frame) & cabinets (carcase, drawers, doors). Once you know the basic terms and techniques, you can use them to expand out to further reference materials, including power tool stuff. I also highly recommend The Anarchist's Tool Chest and The Anarchist's Design Book. In addition to being fantastic practical woodworking books, they each have a handful of philosophy chapters that I find very appealing, as someone who likes to make things. If any of the above interests you (and you are in the US), throw me a PM. I've got some bookshelf space I'd like to clear off.
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Sep 15, 2020 01:54
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Dewalt Planer update. Lower humidity today and zero issues. Planed a bunch of the same batch of cedar without a single hiccup. Weird stuff.
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Sep 15, 2020 02:40
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Yooper posted:Dewalt Planer update. Lower humidity today and zero issues. Planed a bunch of the same batch of cedar without a single hiccup. Weird stuff. I don't entirely understand why it happens, but a google seemed to confirm we aren't the only 3 people in the world who have noticed a correlation between high humidity and feed problems on a planer.
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Sep 15, 2020 03:09
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Kaiser Schnitzel posted:I don't entirely understand why it happens, but a google seemed to confirm we aren't the only 3 people in the world who have noticed a correlation between high humidity and feed problems on a planer. Microscopic surface condensation? That’s pretty trippy how something so innocuous can mess with friction so much. Caution: slippery when humid.
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Sep 15, 2020 04:15
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ColdPie posted:Thank you. My favorite intro to woodworking is The Essential Woodworker. The technique sections focus exclusively on hand tools, but it also contain introductions to every part of building tables (top, frame) & cabinets (carcase, drawers, doors). Once you know the basic terms and techniques, you can use them to expand out to further reference materials, including power tool stuff. I also highly recommend The Anarchist's Tool Chest and The Anarchist's Design Book. In addition to being fantastic practical woodworking books, they each have a handful of philosophy chapters that I find very appealing, as someone who likes to make things. I can't imagine getting rid of my LAP books. Other stuff sure, but LAP stuff is like the very end of the list for me. Since you are recommending great Schwarz books, what's your take on the following "order" for reading? Anarchists Design Book (philosophy, design, minimal tools) Anarchists Workbench (workspace, more tools but still minimal) Anarchists Tool Chest (more philosophy, more tools (but still minimalish) Both from a grab the reader and motivate standpoint and from a "this is the order you'll likely approach these problems/needs" standpoint, this is my recommended order. Thoughts?
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Sep 15, 2020 04:19
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I have not read the other two, but Anarchist Tool Chest was really pretty formative for me and has influenced alot about how I think about tools. I read it when I'd doing this for a year or two, mostly working with machines, and it, along with watching tons of 'The Woodwright's Shop', really opened the door to adding hand tools. I think Schwarz has grown and matured a bit since then and I need to read his newer stuff. I think he and I likely have very different tastes in design, but I always find his writing engaging even if I don't agree with it. Roy Underhill is probably my favorite woodworking writer. 'The Woodwright's Apprentice' is a great book, and I still refer to it every time I need to remember how to sharpen a card scraper.
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Sep 15, 2020 04:30
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I took a class with Roy 5-6 years ago, and I wish like hell I could take it now instead. I wasn't ready at the time. He was so kind to my compete inability to follow through with the instruction. Just infinitely patient with my completely wasting his time.
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Sep 15, 2020 05:20
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Roy, if you are reading this, I promise I can cut a half-blind dovetail now. I got there, Roy.
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Sep 15, 2020 05:21
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Kaiser Schnitzel posted:I have not read the other two, but Anarchist Tool Chest was really pretty formative for me and has influenced alot about how I think about tools. I read it when I'd doing this for a year or two, mostly working with machines, and it, along with watching tons of 'The Woodwright's Shop', really opened the door to adding hand tools. I think Schwarz has grown and matured a bit since then and I need to read his newer stuff. I think he and I likely have very different tastes in design, but I always find his writing engaging even if I don't agree with it. Get ADB like, now, and read it. Its his work that I've re-read the most times, both the philosophy chapters and the instruction chapters. Its so drat good. Roy is great but if your wife is a redhead and you bring her by his school he's definitely going to try and flirt with her as much as he can.
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Sep 15, 2020 05:30
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GEMorris posted:Since you are recommending great Schwarz books, what's your take on the following "order" for reading? I wouldn't argue with that. I haven't read all of Workbench, but I did like his earlier book where he gave several different designs which work well for different situations. I feel like describing just one workbench is kind of limiting. It's also a fairly complex build (that top glue-up!), especially if you don't already have a workbench. I'm a really big fan of the knockdown Nicholson I built, especially for a first bench, and I think it'd be a shame to present just one bench plan to a new woodworker. I agree ADB is probably his best book. If you're going to pick one, that's the one to do. But my favorite essay he's written is the Three Tables chapter in Tool Chest. It's just a perfect description of why I like to make things.
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Sep 15, 2020 12:21
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I'm scoping out a workshop, and my initial thought was to vault the ceiling and use it for materials storage. Is that a dumb idea with wood? It's likely to get a decent amount of direct sunlight, and will be the hottest part of the building (though this is UK-hot so topping out at ~35ºC).
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Sep 15, 2020 13:08
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Jaded Burnout posted:I'm scoping out a workshop, and my initial thought was to vault the ceiling and use it for materials storage. Is that a dumb idea with wood? It's likely to get a decent amount of direct sunlight, and will be the hottest part of the building (though this is UK-hot so topping out at ~35ºC). When I was building my workshop, I looked into vaulting the ceiling. At least in my part of the US, no part of the building code covered vaulted ceilings, though, so I would've had to get an engineer to sign off on my plans, which would have been expensive. Now that I've built the thing, I've found that the ceiling joists are a convenient platform for storage (note that I used joists and rafters instead of those prefabricated webs). The main difficulty is that really long things can be difficult or impossible to get up there because they have to be able to fit in between the gaps between two joists without bumping into the underside of the roof. For your plans, you might look into whether it's possible to put a large access hatch into the ceiling. This would cut across one of the joists and give you room to get bulky materials in and out. Then you could put plywood flooring down across the joists. The big question (which I don't know the answer to, in the US or otherwise) is what that hatch would need to look like. Cutting a joist is not a small problem. I know it can be done because houses with stairs exist, I just don't know how, structurally, it's laid out.
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Sep 15, 2020 14:49
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Jaded Burnout posted:I'm scoping out a workshop, and my initial thought was to vault the ceiling and use it for materials storage. Is that a dumb idea with wood? It's likely to get a decent amount of direct sunlight, and will be the hottest part of the building (though this is UK-hot so topping out at ~35ºC). Storing stuff across the ceiling joists/rafters works well and I do it in my garage. If I were starting from scratch, I'd add a little door in the gable end to make getting long stuff in/out and avoid the problem TooMuchAbstraction brings up.
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Sep 15, 2020 15:08
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Huxley posted:Roy, if you are reading this, I promise I can cut a half-blind dovetail now. I got there, Roy. New thread title, pls. GEMorris posted:Get ADB like, now, and read it. Its his work that I've re-read the most times, both the philosophy chapters and the instruction chapters. Its so drat good. Lmao. You can take the boy out of, well even in his 60's Roy is still a boy.....
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Sep 15, 2020 17:55
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TooMuchAbstraction posted:When I was building my workshop, I looked into vaulting the ceiling. At least in my part of the US, no part of the building code covered vaulted ceilings, though, so I would've had to get an engineer to sign off on my plans, which would have been expensive. I'm going to have to do this anyway. When I redid my house it cost about £750 for the engineer, and this is a much smaller job. TooMuchAbstraction posted:Now that I've built the thing, I've found that the ceiling joists are a convenient platform for storage (note that I used joists and rafters instead of those prefabricated webs). The main difficulty is that really long things can be difficult or impossible to get up there because they have to be able to fit in between the gaps between two joists without bumping into the underside of the roof. Yes this was my original thinking, but also the problem I butted up against. TooMuchAbstraction posted:For your plans, you might look into whether it's possible to put a large access hatch into the ceiling. This would cut across one of the joists and give you room to get bulky materials in and out. Then you could put plywood flooring down across the joists. The big question (which I don't know the answer to, in the US or otherwise) is what that hatch would need to look like. Cutting a joist is not a small problem. I know it can be done because houses with stairs exist, I just don't know how, structurally, it's laid out. It's not too complicated really, it's a sort of square structure around the opening, but that doesn't really solve the issue either, as the physics of the angles will always be a limiting factor. Plus, putting plywood down negates the skylights anyway so the sunlight suddenly wouldn't be a problem, but I need all the light I can get here. Kaiser Schnitzel posted:Storing stuff across the ceiling joists/rafters works well and I do it in my garage. If I were starting from scratch, I'd add a little door in the gable end to make getting long stuff in/out and avoid the problem TooMuchAbstraction brings up. Unfortunately that only works if the gable is pointing towards a big open area. Kaiser Schnitzel posted:I try to keep wood out of direct sunlight. It can cause one side to dry out and warp the board and occasionally cause surface checking, especially in oak IME. Maybe not so much of a problem in not so sunny Britain. The heat isn't really a problem. If it's only the direct sunlight that's the issue I can probably build a cover into whatever storage I put in, one that shields the stock from sunlight but doesn't block all the light to the main work area.
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Sep 15, 2020 17:55
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Does anyone have a good resource on interesting deck railing ideas? I was originally going to do the aluminum posts with slats thing but due to the ridiculousness of construction lumber prices coupled with another home emergency has kinda killed my budget. It's a smallish landing and some steps going about 6 feet down, not a full deck.
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Sep 15, 2020 20:10
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Generalissimo
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Toast posted:Does anyone have a good resource on interesting deck railing ideas? I was originally going to do the aluminum posts with slats thing but due to the ridiculousness of construction lumber prices coupled with another home emergency has kinda killed my budget. Aluminum posts with steel cable?
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Sep 15, 2020 20:19
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Toast posted:Does anyone have a good resource on interesting deck railing ideas? I was originally going to do the aluminum posts with slats thing but due to the ridiculousness of construction lumber prices coupled with another home emergency has kinda killed my budget.
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Sep 15, 2020 20:21
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I wonder how much of America's soft yellow pine stocks have just burnt to a crisp in the california/oregon/washington national forests that burned.
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Sep 15, 2020 20:24
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Kaiser Schnitzel posted:I don't have any railing ideas (except make sure the top board is wide enough to set a drink on), but just wait if you can. Lumber prices are insane atm for a number of reasons, but they will come down. I was loving floored yesterday when I saw that HD wanted $7 for an 8' #2 2x4. Unfortunately I couldn't, the steps and railing were rotting away and weren't going to last another winter and that's my main exit to my parking area so I'm not leaving it without a railing for snow and ice season, the front steps which are almost but not quite in as bad a state are probably waiting an extra year now though.
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Sep 15, 2020 20:28
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Leperflesh posted:I wonder how much of America's soft yellow pine stocks have just burnt to a crisp in the california/oregon/washington national forests that burned. I think that's part of it, and also natural disasters destroying a lot of homes means a lot of new home construction, as well as fewer imports because covid.
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Sep 15, 2020 20:32
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Leperflesh posted:I wonder how much of America's soft yellow pine stocks have just burnt to a crisp in the california/oregon/washington national forests that burned. All that is on top of the fact that a ton of sawmills closed permanently during the 2008 financial crisis, and while there are actually alot of mills expanding/being build (at least here in the southeast) you can't build a sawmill overnight, and even if you could, it takes a decent bit of time to get a log from the stump to being lumber on the rack. The big bad pine beetle outbreak in the Canadian Rockies over the last few years has shrunk Canadian supply as well, and we import quite a bit of dimensional lumber from Canada. So even in February, there wasn't a ton of spare lumber inventory or spare production capacity sitting around to soak up the sudden spike in demand. This is a good chart from the Financial Times:  The Southeast is still growing southern yellow pine much faster than it can be cut. Between the death of newspapers/magazines and the growth of everything being done digitally timber prices have never recovered from their peaks in the late 1990s. There is a huge oversupply of SYP timber here-the bottleneck is sawmills. Lumber prices however, are at record highs, timber prices at near historic lows-there's probably never been a better time to be in the yellow pine sawmill business. Interestingly, it doesn't seem to have effected hardwood prices all that much, and they seem to have actually come down a bit (and they were already down because of the trade war).
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Sep 15, 2020 20:52
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Yeah, from what I've seen the US prices on the lumber I've been buying has been about the same, so with exchange even worse really.
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Sep 15, 2020 21:11
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That's really interesting, thanks KS.
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Sep 15, 2020 21:17
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I thought those 2x4x8s I bought last week were a bit pricey - almost $6 each. Seem to remember them being closer to $2 when I bought a bunch last summer.
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Sep 15, 2020 21:22
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Man I thought I had it bad when I bought a bunch of 2x4s in the spring for $3.75. Luckily I also spotted a bunch of 2x4s in the cull pile my next trip, which were pretty much the same quality, and those were like $1.00 each
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Sep 15, 2020 21:26
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Bought a bunch of cedar 2x6x8 last weekend at $21-23 each... painful
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Sep 15, 2020 21:29
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Jaded Burnout posted:I'm scoping out a workshop, and my initial thought was to vault the ceiling and use it for materials storage. Is that a dumb idea with wood? It's likely to get a decent amount of direct sunlight, and will be the hottest part of the building (though this is UK-hot so topping out at ~35ºC). If it helps, the shed I just built used joists on only half. I nailed down some plywood for some storage, where I'll put sheet goods and some lumber. The really long lumber will go on the wall still. (It's a 16 ft long shed, so this won't apply if your workshop is much shorter.)
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Sep 15, 2020 23:01
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Toast posted:Does anyone have a good resource on interesting deck railing ideas? I was originally going to do the aluminum posts with slats thing but due to the ridiculousness of construction lumber prices coupled with another home emergency has kinda killed my budget. Idk what the aluminum posts with slats thing is. You can do this with wood. I assume you're building steps? I think your best bet is to create a monolithic piece of steps, risers, posts, rail all securely fastened that then anchors securely to a concrete pad at bottom (and your house or porch at top) Can you sketch the thing out?
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Sep 15, 2020 23:12
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Mr. Mambold posted:Idk what the aluminum posts with slats thing is. You can do this with wood. I assume you're building steps? I think your best bet is to create a monolithic piece of steps, risers, posts, rail all securely fastened that then anchors securely to a concrete pad at bottom (and your house or porch at top) The slat thing is basically this but at deck railing sized https://i.pinimg.com/originals/e1/9c/cf/e19ccf0f6335a89d7bd9d3b719427ba2.jpg this is the actual construction, unfortunately the railing plan has gone through 4 iterations at this point so I built it without them: 
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Sep 16, 2020 00:08
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Toast posted:The slat thing is basically this but at deck railing sized https://i.pinimg.com/originals/e1/9c/cf/e19ccf0f6335a89d7bd9d3b719427ba2.jpg Okay, assuming you don't have a concrete landing(and that's better for you), forget the monolithic build. But, you need to get rid of those steps. No offense, but they're not going to support anything you need in terms of railing. I'd dig 2 12" wide x 24" deep holes (which might be a bit overkill, but it's only 2 holes) where the bottom posts are supposed to go, and sink treated 4x4's in a couple sacks Sakrete each, plumb and dead center where the rails are supposed to land. You have to have them in the exact right spot, or you're screwed. Maybe run some pieces of rebar horizontally through the bottom of the posts like spikes so they grab the concrete better. You can run them long, then cut to height when the concrete has set up. That's the most crucial part of the whole deal, otherwise your pony wall railing is going to wobble and be poo poo. Everything else is mostly common sense. 2x12 stringers would be my pref, along with 2x12 treads (you can probably reuse the ones in the picture). Do the treads however, but I probably wouldn't L notch the tops out of the stringers, because that would weaken them. I'd just bolt right into them. Lag bolt 4x4 half notched posts on either side, but the posts at the top are going to be your main problem from what I can see. That looks like 3/4 redwood or cedar skirting around the porch, and you're going to need to substantially brace behind that for your top posts and stringers to secure to. Run your slats however you want. I'd probably dado a slot in either side of the posts for them to set in. Top rail something appropriate that is not prone to splinter. Stain to your preference. That's my thinking.
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Sep 16, 2020 03:16
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Mr. Mambold posted:Okay, assuming you don't have a concrete landing(and that's better for you), forget the monolithic build. But, you need to get rid of those steps. No offense, but they're not going to support anything you need in terms of railing. Nah, the stringers are steel, the outer board the stringers are connected to (lag bolted through into another interior piece) is a 2x12 PT with extra bracing and various joist hangers (admittedly in one place making the best of a hack job by the previous owner but reinforced to the point I'm pretty confident about it) connecting it to several 2x10 beams that run directly into the house. As for the rest yeah, thanks for the input as that's basically been my thinking as I've done research over the course of day. I'm going to investigate just how bad doing the posts that way would be at this point but that's probably my weekend plan.
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Sep 16, 2020 03:43
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SouthShoreSamurai posted:If it helps, the shed I just built used joists on only half. I nailed down some plywood for some storage, where I'll put sheet goods and some lumber. The really long lumber will go on the wall still. I'll be aiming for ~6m long I think.
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Sep 16, 2020 10:08
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Was it this thread or somewhere else that someone put together a controller to manage their air compressor with like monitoring and delayed auto-drain and a bunch of other fun stuff? Trying to find that chain of posts.
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Sep 16, 2020 16:58
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Finally finished my most recent project: I’m pretty ambivalent about it. It looks kind of nice but it’s hilariously not straight/square. I’m actually more proud of the physical labor it involved since I surfaced and ripped 6/4 oak with a not-all-that-sharp panel saw three times for the posts. Regardless, I’ve decided to try to up my game and build a shaker style table. Went and got some cherry this morning, ordered a mortise gauge, and am planning to build a saw bench in the next couple weeks to rip more easily. Very excited.
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Sep 16, 2020 17:52
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z0331 posted:Finally finished my most recent project: It looks great I like the lightness feel to it, the good thing is when it's 3/4 full of wood you'll be the only one to know it's off! Post your next project pics too that sounds exciting
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Sep 16, 2020 17:58
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Harry Potter on Ice posted:It looks great I like the lightness feel to it, the good thing is when it's 3/4 full of wood you'll be the only one to know it's off! Post your next project pics too that sounds exciting Thanks! Also hidden on the back is the mortise I started cutting on the wrong side because I'm an idiot. But hey, it's not fine furniture. I figure worst case, down the road I can saw it apart and repurpose the posts as legs for a side table. I'm planning to basically build this: https://www.finewoodworking.com/2018/03/27/shaker-inspired-hall-table-plans I'm a huge sucker for Shaker style. I could fill the house with nothing but Shaker and Arts and Crafts furniture and be perfectly happy.
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Sep 16, 2020 18:21
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