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kimbo305 posted:While that crank is definitely GXP style, the bottom bracket SJS says in the comments to replace it with is a Hope, with the same Shimano style spacer setup. I think a lot of the problem is SRAM seems to sell bottom brackets without saying what width the cups are, I think if it comes with spacers it’s the narrower design. May be it’s a OEM thing but the cups fitted to my bike work without any spacers and it’s a 69mm BB.
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Sep 20, 2020 20:16
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TobinHatesYou posted:The fork leg almost always flexes more when leaning right, causing rub on the left pad. Increase the distance to the left pad and slightly decrease it to the right pad. Don’t aim for symmetry. I'll give this a shot and see how it goes. Eviljoven: what does faced mean here? I tried googling and it wasn't obvious. Most likely I'm just going to adjust them until I'm happy, unless this is something relatively inexpensive.
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Sep 20, 2020 23:21
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The metal that you’re bolting the caliper to might not be perfectly flat. Facing it means to file/smooth the two mount holes into a single plane, so that the caliper can actually sit flush.
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Sep 20, 2020 23:26
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kimbo305 posted:Facing it means to file/smooth That's an accurate description, but getting them flat and even will require a jig or expensive tool. Attempting to anything with a hand file will destroy your bike. Just making sure no one gets the wrong take away from this.
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Sep 21, 2020 03:22
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Can we get some Fs in chat for this tried and true workhorse:
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Sep 21, 2020 17:38
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Bad news: Shimano stopped making the un55 and the replacement un300 seems to be of lower quality. All the ones I've encountered have had pretty rough bearings out of the box. Really sucks if you're running square taper.
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Sep 21, 2020 18:13
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Motherfucker. Phil's counting his money now, because if I can't get like 4-5 years out of a $30 BB, his expensive BB starts making more sense. There are still some out there online with sr. google. nm fucked around with this message at 18:18 on Sep 21, 2020 |
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Sep 21, 2020 18:15
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I'll probably start giving tange ln-3922 a try for my projects E: or the cheapest sunlite has to offer because the JBI rep is pretty good about returns.
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Sep 21, 2020 18:36
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CopperHound posted:Can we get some Fs in chat for this tried and true workhorse: Havana Affair posted:Bad news: Shimano stopped making the un55 and the replacement un300 seems to be of lower quality. All the ones I've encountered have had pretty rough bearings out of the box. Really sucks if you're running square taper. Thanks for the tip. The 113mm spindle version is already gone in a lot of UK places it seems. I just ordered one from halfords. I have an unused one with a 122.5mm spindle that I can post out for £20+P&P if anyone is desperate.
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Sep 21, 2020 22:11
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Question: is there a way to change a 12x100 wheel to a 15x110 without switching out the hub?
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Sep 21, 2020 22:25
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Ugh, this front derailleur. (Shimano Sora) So I thought I had everything dialed in. The shifting seemed to work fine when I tested it at the house. Out on the road today, I found that the derailleur isn't quite working the way it did at home. The issue is this - if I'm in the middle ring, I can shift up to the big ring easily. The shift happens quickly and smoothly. But, when downshifting back to the middle ring, I noticed that for starters, the thumb button to downshift seems to require more effort to press down. After pressing the button, the gear readout on the brifter is in the middle, but the shift never happens. Looking down, I saw that the chain was still on the big ring. And, I can hear the chain making some noise, like a rattling or something. If I try clicking down again, the chain will skip all the way down to the small ring. So, right now, if I want the middle ring, I have to click all the way down to low, then shift back up to the middle. The shift down to the middle from the big ring doesn't move the chain. Oddly, upshifting works well. Quick gear changes, no noises or hesitations. I'm wondering if it's a combo of too much cable tension and an improperly set low limit screw. I haven't had the chance to examine everything yet.
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Sep 21, 2020 22:37
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mexecan posted:Question: is there a way to change a 12x100 wheel to a 15x110 without switching out the hub? Depends on the hub but most likely no.
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Sep 21, 2020 22:55
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Dolemite posted:I'm wondering if it's a combo of too much cable tension and an improperly set low limit screw Unlikely to be limit screw, since it can get into small ring, and limit screw wouldn’t come into play on the first shift into the middle ring. How high and yawed is the FD?
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Sep 21, 2020 23:40
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kimbo305 posted:Unlikely to be limit screw, since it can get into small ring, and limit screw wouldn’t come into play on the first shift into the middle ring. Ah, good to know stuff about the limit screw. I’ll take a look at the height and yaw tomorrow. Thanks for the info!
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Sep 21, 2020 23:59
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Too much cable tension pressing hard against the high limit can make the downshift click a harder press, but you would definitely notice it when jamming the shifter into high gear. Front deraileurs are finicky. I don't want to suggest one easy fix, because every combination goes a little different. Like Kimbo was hinting at, there are all sorts of adjustments to front deraileurs: Height, Yaw, Limits, and Cable tension. The first two usually require literally loosening and moving the deraileur. If you take a couple hours to put your bike up on a stand and see how each sort of adjustment can effect shifting (and chain drop  ) it should become more clear what adjustments you need to do.Often times just a slight yaw adjustment or lubricating the pivots can solve front shifting problems. Any height adjustment will also require the cable tension to be readjusted.
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Sep 22, 2020 00:10
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mexecan posted:Question: is there a way to change a 12x100 wheel to a 15x110 without switching out the hub? Maybe if it’s a decent hub. You may be able to change axle size with different end caps. Then there are some options for spacers. You’d have to be more specific about what hub.
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Sep 22, 2020 01:51
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funkymonks posted:Maybe if it’s a decent hub. You may be able to change axle size with different end caps. Then there are some options for spacers. You’d have to be more specific about what hub. It’s a Raceface/Easton wheel set and hub: Raceface Affect 30 wheel set. Seems like DT Swiss it can be done but unsure of these ones.
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Sep 22, 2020 03:29
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I suck at bikes. I fitted a Garbaruk long derailleur cage to my sram rival 1 RD on my Raleigh Stuntman as outlined here: https://www.youtube.com/watch?v=3jFzCwjlH4E Parts seems to fit well. I just can't seem to get shifting adjusted right. I gave up last night but will try again today. I watched the park tools video and the sickbicker video too. Might try the sickbicker method today. https://www.youtube.com/watch?v=Ly4wDlMWR9o Coredump fucked around with this message at 16:52 on Sep 22, 2020 |
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Sep 22, 2020 16:22
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kimbo305 posted:... So here are pictures that, hopefully, give an idea of the height/yaw of the derailleur. Yaw:  Height:  I think the rotation might be okay, but I'll double-check that later today. Not the best photo for the rotation angle. Is your thinking that an improperly rotated derailleur could be denying that big to middle ring downshift? Edit: Oh, and yeah, the bike desperately needs cleaning. It sat dormant for many years, so I've been trying to get as much rust and other crap off as I can.
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Sep 22, 2020 17:16
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IMO: lower it a few mm - it should only just barely clear the teeth. Should be angled with the tail of the cage slightly further out, too.
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Sep 22, 2020 17:26
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Dolemite posted:
It doesn’t just need cleaning, it needs new chainrings and a new chain. I shouldn’t be able to see daylight through gaps between the chain and teeth like that. Your big ring is done and the middle ring isn’t looking great either. I think the hinge of the FD is just rusty and dry af so the cage isn’t springing back down to the inboard position when you release the cable tension. Another possibility is the cable itself is experiencing a ton of friction in the housing or shifter body...or it’s just all chewed up inside the shifter body as often happens with Shimano. TobinHatesYou fucked around with this message at 18:08 on Sep 22, 2020 |
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Sep 22, 2020 17:29
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What kind of gearing are you running to need that on the stuntman?  I have an 11-46 that works just fine on mine.
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Sep 22, 2020 17:41
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Can't have too much gearing. Excited to see someone bring out 10-60t.
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Sep 22, 2020 18:01
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bicievino posted:IMO: I'll adjust these when I work on the bike tonight. Thanks! TobinHatesYou posted:It doesn’t just need cleaning, it needs new chainrings and a new chain. I shouldn’t be able to see daylight through gaps between the chain and teeth like that. Your big ring is done and the middle ring isn’t looking great either. I did some quick price checking on replacement rings and chains, and, holy hell are those expensive! Since the bike sat for so long that the components rusted, I gave thought to replacing all of it - front/rear derailleurs, cassette, crankset. Turns out that finding stuff for 9 speed bikes is hard these days. At least, in my search. And all of the upgrades would cost so much that it's almost worth buying a used road bike.  Is it still safe to ride with the chain and chainrings in that condition? I'll accept the reduced performance, as I'm not a competitive cyclist. Once I find a job and can afford to, I'll either fix up the current bike further, or, look at getting a new (used) bike.
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Sep 22, 2020 18:04
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e.pilot posted:What kind of gearing are you running to need that on the stuntman? I'm a big ol boy. I was at 300 lbs back in November, got down to 245 there abouts so far this year and that's made hills easier but for actual climbs... yeah I could stand to have more gearing so my knees will speak to me the next day. Running 40t on the crankset and trying to get this sunrace 11-50t cassette to go.
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Sep 22, 2020 18:11
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Upon further inspection, the chainrings miiiight be ok, but I suspect they have been scalloped enough by your worn chain to warrant replacement. At the very least, the chain has to be replaced. 1) It is rusted to hell and 2) it is elongated well beyond 1%. The slightest bit of maintenance goes a long way. If you don’t want chains to wear out quickly, keep them clean and lubed. Dry off your bike if you’ve ridden in the rain and likewise store it in a dry place if possible.
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Sep 22, 2020 18:15
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TobinHatesYou posted:Upon further inspection, the chainrings miiiight be ok, but I suspect they have been scalloped enough by your worn chain to warrant replacement. At the very least, the chain has to be replaced. 1) It is rusted to hell and 2) it is elongated well beyond 1%. Since my LBS has an affordable chain, I'll go ahead and replace it. Going over the Park Tool article on chain replacement, I'm also buying some chain tools. Before I place my order, this stuff is currently in my cart. Not sure if I'm missing anything else to complete this repair. Chain: Shimano CN-HG53 9-speed chain Tools: Park Tool Mini Chain Brute Chain Tool Park Tool Master Link Pliers If I'm doing my homework correctly, this should be all I need. At least, I think so? Chainrings will definitely be next when I get more funds. EDIT: Oh yeah, and: Cassette is a SRAM PG-950 11-26, 9 speed and the chainrings are FSA Vero 50/39/30. Dolemite fucked around with this message at 19:01 on Sep 22, 2020 |
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Sep 22, 2020 18:59
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That chain does not come with a masterlink. Not a huge deal, you just don't need the masterlink pliers. The pin is one time use, so if you think you might gently caress up the chain length, get extras or a new master link. CopperHound fucked around with this message at 19:05 on Sep 22, 2020 |
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Sep 22, 2020 19:03
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Can anybody here confirm that the thread on a FSA crank bolt is M18 x 1.0mm? Not content to risk my health by wrenching on my own bikes, I figure I'll up the ante by making my own replacement parts. The bolt I has all the threads stripped off and no longer holds the non-drive-side crank.
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Sep 22, 2020 19:15
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Dolemite posted:I did some quick price checking on replacement rings and chains, and, holy hell are those expensive! Since the bike sat for so long that the components rusted, I gave thought to replacing all of it - front/rear derailleurs, cassette, crankset. Replacement chainrings shouldn't be awful, $30 or so for a ring on eBay. Similar for chains. quote:Turns out that finding stuff for 9 speed bikes is hard these days. At least, in my search.
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Sep 22, 2020 19:21
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Ffffuuuccckkk. In the process of trying to adjust height and rotation of the front derailleur, I managed to screw everything up. First, when I loosened the clamp bolt, I was adjusting along, when the derailleur sank like halfway down the frame. When I tried to reposition the derailleur to a proper height, I couldn't move the thing upwards at all. I wondered if there was some cable tension issue causing this, so I loosened the inner wire pinch bolt and took out some slack, so that I can try to move the derailleur up without any resistance. I was able to get the derailleur to a proper height, so I retightened the clamp bolt, and then, tried to feed the wire back to the pinch bolt. In doing so, the little crimped end of the cable broke off. So now, the wire is fraying where the crimp used to be. Even with everything tightened back up, all the settings seem jacked. I never seem to be able to find the right combo of limit screw settings and cable tension. I'll try to go through the entire settings procedure again and see if I can salvage this. I really don't want to have to take this to a bike shop for fixing. I bet the cost for them to replace the chain and reset the derailleur (along with a tune up) will probably be crazy expensive. I just wanted to be able to let off steam and ride. Oh, and here's a shot of the fraying wire in question. Am I safe in assuming this wire will completely fray over time, causing the derailleur to snap all the way back to the small ring due to the sudden lack of cable tension? This doesn't seem like it could be safe. I hope I'm wrong! 
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Sep 22, 2020 23:30
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You must replace that cable.
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Sep 22, 2020 23:51
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nope, get a new cable and start again dude. If you want to even try fixing your adjustment from scratch you're going to need to undo the bolt that is grabbing onto the frayed wire.
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Sep 22, 2020 23:52
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Literally Lewis Hamilton posted:You must replace that cable. Development posted:nope, get a new cable and start again dude. If you want to even try fixing your adjustment from scratch you're going to need to undo the bolt that is grabbing onto the frayed wire. Sigh, yeah, I was afraid of that. I’ll look into how to replace the cable. I’ll also be calling local shops around the area to see what fixing this thing costs. I’ve had a really good run so far when it comes to fixing stuff on my own, but It might be time to call in a pro. And, DEFINITELY not riding the bike until the cable thing is sorted! EDIT: Shout out to all of you in this thread! Always appreciating the help. 🙂 Dolemite fucked around with this message at 00:10 on Sep 23, 2020 |
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Sep 23, 2020 00:06
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Replacing it isn’t hard if you want to give it a shot. Basically you’d undo the cable bolt, roll back the rubber hood on the shifter (newer Sora) or pull the lever. If you have an exposed part of the cable (not the housing!!!) then go ahead and cut it so you aren’t trying to push that frayed bit through the housing, then push the cable backward through the housing. This is probably close to what you have since I can see Sora and it’s a 3x. https://youtu.be/kVLmpBpC0vU
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Sep 23, 2020 00:45
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Pro tip for when you install a cable; after you install it and feed it through the housing, cut it way longer than you need. This way you have plenty of cable to grab onto and if the end frays while you're adjusting, no biggie since it'll be cut off when you're all set up anyway. Also get a proper cable cutter and a box of cable end crimps.
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Sep 23, 2020 12:50
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Literally Lewis Hamilton posted:Replacing it isn’t hard if you want to give it a shot. Basically you’d undo the cable bolt, roll back the rubber hood on the shifter (newer Sora) or pull the lever. If you have an exposed part of the cable (not the housing!!!) then go ahead and cut it so you aren’t trying to push that frayed bit through the housing, then push the cable backward through the housing. Awesome find! Yeah, the video does make it look simple enough. Worth trying. spf3million posted:Pro tip for when you install a cable; after you install it and feed it through the housing, cut it way longer than you need. This way you have plenty of cable to grab onto and if the end frays while you're adjusting, no biggie since it'll be cut off when you're all set up anyway. Good to know! I could've seen myself making the mistake of cutting the cable too short. --- Bike thread: Given all I'm going through with the FD, I've been looking more and more into going the 1X route up front. The simplicity appeals to me. Also, I live in Florida, so we have like zero hills here. Well, except for parking lot speed bumps. I've been doing some research on this, and it seems like the consensus is that you can get away with it, with some caveats. Like, with the way the chainrings' teeth are cut, the chain could possibly shift itself off the chainring. I've read that people are either buying a chain catcher thing, or, leaving the front derailleur on, to act as a makeshift chain catcher. The other caveat is you'll, of course, lose all the extra gear combos when going from a triple to a single. But, Florida and flat land for days. In the more technical videos and articles, I've noticed that many opt to keep their middle chainring. I would be torn on which ring to keep. For the most part, I only used the middle ring to quickly accelerate from a stop, or, to battle huge headwinds. Other than that, I'm in the big ring mostly. My options up front would be to either keep the 39T or 50T. I went over and plugged those into Sheldon Brown's calculator, along with my cassette info. It seems that the speeds in the lower cogs are similar between the two chainrings, as is the jump from gear to gear. But, the jumps between the upper gears seem wider with the bigger ring versus the smaller. Although, I've never had an issue with the big jumps in speed when in the big ring. FWIW, this is the gearing in the cassette: 11, 13, 14, 15, 17, 19, 21, 23, 26 (SRAM PG-950) There is a very real chance that this is over my head. But, can't mess the bike up any worse at this point!
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Sep 23, 2020 14:59
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Coredump posted:I'm a big ol boy. I was at 300 lbs back in November, got down to 245 there abouts so far this year and that's made hills easier but for actual climbs... yeah I could stand to have more gearing so my knees will speak to me the next day. Running 40t on the crankset and trying to get this sunrace 11-50t cassette to go. By some sort of miracle I got everything shifting correctly. Not the fault of the equipment, its just being worked on by a dummy. I need to get a picture of the bike in its current state but all I can say now is... ULTIMATE. CLIMBING. POWAAARRR. It's nice.
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Sep 23, 2020 16:57
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Dolemite posted:Bike thread: Given all I'm going through with the FD, I've been looking more and more into going the 1X route up front. The simplicity appeals to me. Also, I live in Florida, so we have like zero hills here. Well, except for parking lot speed bumps. I've been doing some research on this, and it seems like the consensus is that you can get away with it, with some caveats. Like, with the way the chainrings' teeth are cut, the chain could possibly shift itself off the chainring. I've read that people are either buying a chain catcher thing, or, leaving the front derailleur on, to act as a makeshift chain catcher. It's sounded like you want to do this on a budget. If so, you would just set the limits of the FD to right around the middle ring, and never touch the front shifter. Or just never shift out of the mdidle ring with an intact front shifting setup. Nothing simpler than doing nothing on a working bike. If you really wanted to, you could try to get a bigger middle ring once you decided that 39t wasn't enough.
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Sep 23, 2020 17:24
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kimbo305 posted:It's sounded like you want to do this on a budget. If so, you would just set the limits of the FD to right around the middle ring, and never touch the front shifter. Or just never shift out of the mdidle ring with an intact front shifting setup. Nothing simpler than doing nothing on a working bike. Yeah, definitely wanted to do this on a budget. I was planning on using one of the existing chainrings from the triple for the conversion. But it seems like at the end of the day, it'll just be easier to replace the cable and set the entire derailleur up from scratch. I managed to find the Shimano shop manual for the front derailleur, so that'll help. Other than the bike's current woes, it's in great shape. Finish everything off with a new chain and a cleaning, and we're good to go.
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Sep 23, 2020 18:02
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