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I am still in the process of finalizing plans to get my 10x20 carport closed in to shop and got some great advice here a few weeks ago and just wanted to ask a couple follow-up questions. The contractor who I am going with is going to do all the work including installing all the outlets and putting them wherever I want, but he’ll need me to have the subpanel run first. He’s a trusted word of mouth recommendation, seems to know his stuff and is giving the cheapest price, so if that’s how he does things I’m just gonna go with it. I did work with a good electrician recently who ran a stove wire for us and quickly took a look at the job and said it wouldn’t be a problem so I’ve called him for a formal estimate. I just wanted to one more time ask any other advice for planning this out. From the posts here I want to at least run a wire rated for a 100A panel even if I felt like I wouldn’t want that, just so if it needs expanded in the future it doesn’t have to involve running all the way back to the main panel again. I need at least 4 circuits, 1 for lights, 2 for 120V outlets, and 1 for 240. Also it was recommended to be able to leave one of the 120V convertible to a 240 if I ever decide to upgrade to a 240V DC system or air compressor in the future. Does this sound about right? How many amps should I plan for, if planning to run lights, dust collection, table saw, and likely an air cleaner? Also wanted to ask about heating. I’m planning on putting in a window to use a window AC unit in the summer, and think even though the shop will be small and insulated some kind of heating would be nice. After starting to search around on that today I saw some comments about being cautious with heating so you don’t start a fire due to sawdust, and to possibly avoid forced air heating because that just circulates sawdust, although one article I read on family handyman says a ceiling mounted, forced air gas unit is the best option. I don’t know that I want to install a baseboard system. Would a space heater be adequate? Any good ideas for this?
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Sep 16, 2020 19:07
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Newb question: are these gum lines and are they bad? When I saw them I thought they were some cool color variations but after some googling it seems like people try to avoid them?  Would it be bad to try to use them? Thought it might look neat on the front/side aprons. Also both boards I got have a ton of that cats eye effect and I’m super excited. I used some mineral spirits to see the grain and it’s gorgeous.
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Sep 16, 2020 22:08
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Those are gum pockets/lines, yeah. They're not a structural defect, so you can totally do that. Eventually gum pockets are a little less visible as the cherry darkens from UV.
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Sep 16, 2020 23:01
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nosleep posted:Also wanted to ask about heating. I’m planning on putting in a window to use a window AC unit in the summer, and think even though the shop will be small and insulated some kind of heating would be nice. After starting to search around on that today I saw some comments about being cautious with heating so you don’t start a fire due to sawdust, and to possibly avoid forced air heating because that just circulates sawdust, although one article I read on family handyman says a ceiling mounted, forced air gas unit is the best option. I don’t know that I want to install a baseboard system. Would a space heater be adequate? Any good ideas for this? I don't recall seeing you mention what kind of climate you're in but if it was me and I wasn't expecting to see negative temperatures I'd probably look into a mini-split that can handle both duties. If that's to much and you're in a mild area I'd say get a window AC that has a heating mode.
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Sep 17, 2020 00:14
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nosleep posted:I am still in the process of finalizing plans to get my 10x20 carport closed in to shop and got some great advice here a few weeks ago and just wanted to ask a couple follow-up questions. Check with your electrician, he'll have an idea on what is standard in your area (code) for poo poo like that. Lights are marginal amps (LED), table saw FLA will be 10-15 amps, and is pretty common for stationary 120V AC tools. You should be able to google your equipment name followed by "amps" or "fla" (full load amps). Forced air gas, like a Modine, would be one option. Another is a portable oil or water filled space heater. No moving parts, nothing exposed to flame, exterior will never get hot enough to combust dust. I heated a similar sized small garage last winter with a ceramic element electric space heater. My climate sees winter temps down below 0 F. It isn't toasty warm, but I was able to get things done.  I'm now out of the spacious 10X20 garage and into an 8X10 shed... Still a work in process. edit : You could ask the Wiring thread too, https://forums.somethingawful.com/showthread.php?threadid=3090739&pagenumber=336#lastpost Yooper fucked around with this message at 00:31 on Sep 17, 2020 |
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Sep 17, 2020 00:27
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Note that your 120v circuits should all be 20A circuits, not 15A.
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Sep 17, 2020 00:53
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What's the major drawback to having, say, a contractor table saw on a 15A circuit, other than bogging down the motor in thick stock? Asking for a friend.
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Sep 17, 2020 01:06
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z0331 posted:Newb question: are these gum lines and are they bad? When I saw them I thought they were some cool color variations but after some googling it seems like people try to avoid them? If there's no separation between the grain, I don't know why you can't. Cats eye maple is highly prized and sought after.
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Sep 17, 2020 01:09
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more falafel please posted:What's the major drawback to having, say, a contractor table saw on a 15A circuit, other than bogging down the motor in thick stock? Asking for a friend. Overloading the circuit and having it throw the breaker if you have a bunch of shop tools and chargers and maybe a dust collector etc. all running on one circuit? The reason I mentioned it was code, though: 210.11(C)(4) Garage Branch Circuits says a garage shall have (at least) one 20A circuit, which I was misremembering as requiring them all to be 20A. NEC did an update this year to clarify that's the requirement. e. I also assumed the enclosed carport would still be a garage. If it isn't, then I don't think 210.11(C)(4) applies. Consult your local licensed electrician. Leperflesh fucked around with this message at 01:25 on Sep 17, 2020 |
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Sep 17, 2020 01:22
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I went to the lumber yard, it was really cool. I bought some wood. 
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Sep 17, 2020 20:35
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That's some sweet maple there, nice find. I pulled a board like that out of the general maple pile once and the guy in the yard was like, "Whaaaaat," made some nice things out of it.
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Sep 17, 2020 20:41
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hitze posted:I went to the lumber yard, it was really cool. I bought some wood. Doo-dah, doo-dah. Curly maple 10 feet long, all doodah day. Nice curly.
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Sep 17, 2020 21:06
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Shelf Update: I finally got around to finishing up the bottom trim and baseboards around the shelf and surrounding areas    All I have left to do are the four trim pieces for the verticals. I've purchased boards and started on one, but its been so drat hot lately I haven't been able to do much work on them. Soon though!
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Sep 18, 2020 00:01
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A friend of mine put together this nice ladder for the loft in our place: edit: here it is from another angle It doesn't have any sort of finish right now and I've been thinking about whether it needs a finish or treatment of some sort. Curious to hear what folks in this thread think. El Mero Mero fucked around with this message at 05:17 on Sep 18, 2020 |
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Sep 18, 2020 05:06
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El Mero Mero posted:It doesn't have any sort of finish right now and I've been thinking about whether it needs a finish or treatment of some sort. Curious to hear what folks in this thread think. I would put a poly finish on it, because I am a degenerate and love to put a poly finish on everything. But it probably doesn't need anything, its not outside or going to get wet or anything?
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Sep 18, 2020 12:41
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El Mero Mero posted:It doesn't have any sort of finish right now and I've been thinking about whether it needs a finish or treatment of some sort. Curious to hear what folks in this thread think. I wouldn't do poo poo. And if I did do anything it would absolutely not be polyurethane unless you want to slip in your socks getting out of the loft and smash your face down 7 rungs. If anything I'd try to match the color of the other woodwork around it and use a stain. If you're dead set on a smooth finish then I'd look at adding PSA anti slip pads. That place looks cool, I'd sleep there. The timberframed look is spot on.
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Sep 18, 2020 13:10
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Yooper posted:I wouldn't do poo poo. And if I did do anything it would absolutely not be polyurethane unless you want to slip in your socks getting out of the loft and smash your face down 7 rungs. There are goons in the audience. That might be exactly what they want.
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Sep 18, 2020 14:23
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Mr. Mambold posted:There are goons in the audience. That might be exactly what they want. Only if op posts it in the Schadenfreude thread.
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Sep 18, 2020 15:17
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Yooper posted:I wouldn't do poo poo. And if I did do anything it would absolutely not be polyurethane unless you want to slip in your socks getting out of the loft and smash your face down 7 rungs. If anything I'd try to match the color of the other woodwork around it and use a stain. If you're dead set on a smooth finish then I'd look at adding PSA anti slip pads. Yeah, Definitely don't use a film forming finish like poly. A penetrating oil should be ok though.
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Sep 18, 2020 16:30
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The junk collector posted:Yeah, Definitely don't use a film forming finish like poly. A penetrating oil should be ok though. Yeah this makes sense (including the "do nothing" advice.) I honestly like it a lot, I just wasn't sure if leaving it completely unfinished was a bad idea and quarantine life has me latching onto random unnecessary projects. I kinda doubt my ability to get a good match in color to the surrounding beams, so I think I'll just stick with the contrast.
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Sep 18, 2020 18:36
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Hey all, I've got a tiny project I could use advice on: what's the best finish for cleaning up an old frame? Obviously it doesn't heavy water protection or whatnot, so this has been tricky to research because most sources are for things like floors where the finish needs to be way tougher. Goals: give it some shine (satin finish would be best I'm guessing), perhaps a bit darker, but neutral (so the color stays the same) would be fine too. I've got on hand: Danish Oil (way overkill for something like this from what I understand) Linseed oil (I read this gives an amber/golden color - would it lighten a piece like this?) 
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Sep 20, 2020 14:48
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I don't think wood finish is the correct tool here. You want to get all the dust and gunk out of the crevices; finish would just end up kind of gluing it all in there. I'm not an expert on dusting out nooks and crannies, but have you tried compressed air? EDIT: at least, you want to make certain the piece is as clean as possible before your question about finish applies. TooMuchAbstraction fucked around with this message at 15:34 on Sep 20, 2020 |
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Sep 20, 2020 15:07
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Nosre posted:Hey all, I've got a tiny project I could use advice on: what's the best finish for cleaning up an old frame? Obviously it doesn't heavy water protection or whatnot, so this has been tricky to research because most sources are for things like floors where the finish needs to be way tougher.  looks like a job for poly-acrylic
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Sep 20, 2020 15:17
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Nosre posted:Hey all, I've got a tiny project I could use advice on: what's the best finish for cleaning up an old frame? Obviously it doesn't heavy water protection or whatnot, so this has been tricky to research because most sources are for things like floors where the finish needs to be way tougher. Satin is not shiny. Hi gloss is very shiny; semi-gloss a bit. Oil is not going to lighten anything. Maybe go for a pickled stain, which is what that kind of resembles.
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Sep 20, 2020 15:41
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Nosre posted:Hey all, I've got a tiny project I could use advice on: what's the best finish for cleaning up an old frame? Obviously it doesn't heavy water protection or whatnot, so this has been tricky to research because most sources are for things like floors where the finish needs to be way tougher.
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Sep 20, 2020 16:55
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Thanks all!TooMuchAbstraction posted:I don't think wood finish is the correct tool here. You want to get all the dust and gunk out of the crevices; finish would just end up kind of gluing it all in there. I'm not an expert on dusting out nooks and crannies, but have you tried compressed air?  Rutibex posted:
Kaiser Schnitzel posted:I would try and clean some of the dust/dirt out first with compressed and/or a scrubbing with a toothbrush, and then I would wax it with a good paste wax. If you got a darkish tinted wax, it will sit down in all the little nooks and crannies and hide the dirt and also bring out the carvings and mouldings a bit more. You want to get it in all those little carvings and stuff-a toothbrush or paintbrush is good for this. It will ruin the brush so don't use a good one.
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Sep 20, 2020 17:09
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Nosre posted:Thanks all! You might try this stuff. I use it when I want my warhammer 40k minis to be extra shiny, and they have lots of tiny details: 
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Sep 20, 2020 17:32
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Rutibex posted:You might try this stuff. I use it when I want my warhammer 40k minis to be extra shiny, and they have lots of tiny details: I don’t know about that product specifically, but normal pledge has silicone in it that can really cause a lot of problems when refinishing. All you really need to clean and dust furniture is a slightly damp rag.
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Sep 20, 2020 17:37
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Kaiser Schnitzel posted:I don’t know about that product specifically, but normal pledge has silicone in it that can really cause a lot of problems when refinishing. All you really need to clean and dust furniture is a slightly damp rag. After going at it with a tooth brush I'd just wipe it down with a rag dampened with mineral spirits or similar. Then wax if desired. A denture brush will give some extra umph for stubborn gunk but if the wood is in bad enough shape it might be to aggressive. A soft paintbrush would also work for cleaning it out and are pretty cheap from Harbor Freight.
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Sep 20, 2020 18:01
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Danish oil may be "overkill" in that you don't need the protection of the varnish part of it, but it's super easy and doesn't build up a significant film. Here's a frame, maple and cherry, finished with natural (no stain) danish oil. 
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Sep 20, 2020 18:53
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Sounds like some good options, and I've actually got two identical frames, so maybe I'll try one of each. I'm mostly worried with the heavier products 'pooling' in the carvings, since it'll be impossible to spread them evenly as you would a flat surface
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Sep 21, 2020 10:05
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I have an old Stanley no.5. I can use the adjuster knob to retract the blade, but going the other way, trying to advance it, it won't automatically do it. Instead, the Y-lever will stay where it is while the knob goes backward (so a gap will form between the lever and the adjuster nut). I have to unfasten the lever cap in order to loosen the Y-lever so it will move backward against the nut and let the blade/chip breaker to sort of fall forward into the new position. I have a Lie Nielsen no. 4 which works fine that I can use for more careful planing, so this isn't necessarily the end of the world, but it makes it hard to be careful when starting out, and fine adjustments are difficult. Does anyone know if this is something wrong (and maybe fixable) with the plane or if this is just how this particular generation is?
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Sep 21, 2020 15:37
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Kaiser Schnitzel posted:Anyone every used a round skew? I've seen some British production turners using them and they seem pretty slick, but they all also make every tool look like easymode. I got my hands on 9" of rock hard...1/2" M2 High Speed Steel for $24  Made a handle from some scrap sapele  Banged the rod in the hole (it's actually pretty straight!).  Spent like 2 hours  Rubbed some BLO on the shaft et voila:  It may just be because it's the first time I really got a skew very sharp, but it cuts like a dream. Planing cut on sapele (which normally tears out if I try this) left an incredible finish:  It's definitely a little 'catchier' than my normal rectangular 1/2" skew when rolling beads. I'm not sure if that's because I was giddy with excitement and not paying attention or a different grind angle or just the nature of the beast. I'm not sure about the handle either. It's a copy of the handle on some of my Crown tools, but I think I may like the Sorby style that's a little slimmer at the bottom for more finesse. With more practice it's definitely a hugely versatile tool and a bit easier to handle in some ways than a normal skew. Looking forward to messing around with it some more.
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Sep 21, 2020 23:42
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So I thought I’d do a couple small projects, but really wanted to work on squaring up some pieces of maple from a log from family stuff. But, new house, so I need a plan for where to plug it in. Haha haha. Ha... Turns out the only breakers rated higher than 15amp are for the dryer and range and they’re the 240v outlets. My saw is 120v, but it will kick the breaker if it hits anything hard to saw. So I guess I’ll not do anything that’s hard to saw. Maybe I’ll just buy some better hand saws and see if there’s a maker space.
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Sep 22, 2020 00:04
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Jhet posted:So I thought I’d do a couple small projects, but really wanted to work on squaring up some pieces of maple from a log from family stuff. But, new house, so I need a plan for where to plug it in. Or get a 20a breaker for your shop space. e: assuming you have 12/2 wire. Stultus Maximus fucked around with this message at 00:22 on Sep 22, 2020 |
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Sep 22, 2020 00:18
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Stultus Maximus posted:Or get a 20a breaker for your shop space. It’s a rental. Otherwise I’d install everything I needed immediately. I don’t even need to guess the wire isn’t the right gauge for it. I don’t want to spend money on something that isn’t needed for more than a few times a year right now. The hand saws I can use for a long time at least.
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Sep 22, 2020 00:59
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What saw do you have that would trip at 15? As long as it's on its own circuit you should be fine.
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Sep 22, 2020 03:29
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Anyone here have experience with the Dremel router attachment? Is it garbage, or good enough for very small/casual projects? I already have a Dremel 200, so we’re talking about a $28 investment vs. about $120 for the absolute cheapest dedicated plunge router you can get.
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Sep 22, 2020 04:24
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Rock My Socks! posted:Anyone here have experience with the Dremel router attachment? Is it garbage, or good enough for very small/casual projects? I've got one and it works fine for light duty. The tool selection is a bit more limited and it's a bit lighter than a purpose built hand held router. If you've just got a little bit to do it'll probably work fine as long as you're happy with what you can fit in the dremel chuck. It's been a few years since I used it last so it's possible they've changed their line up a bit.
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Sep 22, 2020 05:02
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Kaiser Schnitzel posted:Well I couldn't find one of these for sale in the US and Crown Tools wanted 110 Moon Dollars to ship me one from the UK, so I just want to say that this is a great post. Truly, once you have a lathe and a grinder you never need to buy lathe tools again. I was looking at making a skew out of M4 steel because of how expensive they are to buy but it turns out just getting M4 is stupidly expensive and I don't think I could justify it over M2 unless I turned every day. Actually, I need to find a good place where I can buy wood and metal. I haven't put in the legwork since I moved to Austin and I've never been super happy with online. How did you index your grind by the way?
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Sep 22, 2020 05:33
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