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kastein posted:I truly hate welded in bolts because they can snap off. Welded in nuts are slightly less evil. Yeah I'm with kastein here, as a big dumb animal who breaks poo poo all the time, please don't make it a pain in the rear end to replace hardware I've monkey hosed because I wasn't paying attention  Though yesterday I got another object lesson when I broke a sway bar bushing bolt and had to get out the drill and extractor. Took it a bit easy with the ugaduga gun after that.
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Sep 19, 2020 18:50
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If it was actually in the frame I'd agree, but at least in this case now that it's been swapped, it'd just be the removal of four bolts to remove the plate with the welded-in fasteners. I suppose that with the welded nuts if anything ever goes wrong, it'd be much easier with limited tooling to just drill the nuts clean through or cut them off the back of the plate, and through-bolt from the inside. HVAC is now temporarily fixed. They brought out a used outside unit they pulled from another full replacement. Hooked it up and then discovered that the TXV valve was stuck shut. Cut and soldered a valve to it to pressurize it and force it to stay open and now I have cold air again for the first time in 48 hours. Should hopefully last through when they come to install the new system on Tuesday.
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Sep 19, 2020 20:14
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New system installed. It's loving huge. The outside unit is way quieter than before. Now the only issue is that on the second cooling stage, the amount of air the handler on the inside is trying to suck in makes the single 20x25 filter howl. I was told that the return is borderline insufficient so I'm not surprised, but adding another return will have to wait for the wallet pain to subside a bit.
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Sep 23, 2020 04:16
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Why not do the second return yourself? (Assuming it doesn't require extensive framing modification to clear the way to it.) I'm also curious if they installed a convenience outlet for service techs. I thought they were required by code but I don't see one there, at least from this angle. E: oh, it's only required within 25ft. Nevermind. (Article 210.63) kastein fucked around with this message at 06:00 on Sep 23, 2020 |
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Sep 23, 2020 05:55
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Crawling around in my attic is where I draw the line on home DIY, mostly because I loving hate the rickety wood ladder that's the only access into there. I hate ladders in general and the weight rating on that one is less than me. There's a receptacle just on the other side of that block wall facing the front door of the house. Maybe ten feet away straight shot, but further actually walking around the fence. Easy enough to chuck an extension cord in it and run it around.
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Sep 23, 2020 16:29
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What SEER did you go with? I know you're in a completely different climate, but I'm watching to see what people do with current AC units. I'm nursing a 21 year old Trane with a SEER of 8 or so. But the new variable-everything displacement high-SEER units scare me in terms of reliability. The old units were dumb and just chooch along forever... I am suspect that the new ones will do the same. Am I just being an AC Luddite?
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Sep 23, 2020 16:36
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EVERYWHERE 
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meatpimp posted:What SEER did you go with? I know you're in a completely different climate, but I'm watching to see what people do with current AC units. I'm nursing a 21 year old Trane with a SEER of 8 or so. But the new variable-everything displacement high-SEER units scare me in terms of reliability. The old units were dumb and just chooch along forever... I am suspect that the new ones will do the same. My old unit was a Lennox 12HPB42, which seems to have been a 12 SEER. I threw a fan / contactor / capacitor at the outside unit last August when the fan stopped working and caused the compressor to thermally overload, but other than that it was doing its job fine. Right up until the outside coil popped a leak I had no real reason to rush into a replacement. The tech that did the temporary work thinks the stuck TXV on the inside unit might have been the straw that broke the camel's back. "Everyone" says 10 years is a good lifespan from system here, but this one was ~21 years old. My mom had two ~30 year old systems that were still working when she finally replaced them (one first, then the other a year later). New outside unit is a Goodman GSZC18, 18 SEER. I'm not sure what the details are on exactly "how" it operates between the two stages but it sure seems like it just varies the indoor fan / outdoor fan / compressor motor speeds to do so. Today is going to be the first full day of usage with the new system and I can get hourly usage from my utility company, I just need to go back and find a few days with similar high temperatures to compare against. edit: Doing some more research it seems like these units have been around on the market for quite a while now, at least 5-7 years. So I'm not too worried about this being some bleeding edge untested gear. IOwnCalculus fucked around with this message at 19:22 on Sep 23, 2020 |
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Sep 23, 2020 18:55
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Spent some time on the C10 today. No photos because the work didn't actually look like much. I walked out to go work on the suspension, but for some reason the new wire channel I'd ordered a while ago was sticking out at me as something needing to get installed. Which turned into revising / rewrapping a good chunk of the lighting harness, and even then I'm not 100% satisfied with where it's at. Went through most of a roll of Tesa tape and I still might end up redoing much of what I did. I was trying to just get things cleaned up "enough" but now that I know how easy the lighting harness is to yank out of the truck, I might just pop it off completely and spend some time indoors fleshing it out. I'll also probably end up relocating the 12ga feed that powers nearly everything in the cab, so that it comes off the alternator directly. Shorter wire distance at the very least. On the plus side, I finally removed the last underhood traces of the long-gone ammeter and voltage regulator. This is all much easier to do with the inner fenders out, since the harness is routed up the inside of the driver's fender. I'm going to end up building a matching harness for the passenger side for the blower motor, AC compressor, computer feed, and fuel / fan / other relays.
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Sep 27, 2020 08:08
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   Apparently a "little wiring cleanup" means it's time to pay for the sins of the past 50 years. Which is good, I suppose. I found one wire that was made up of at least four separate butt-spliced sections, and another that was fed using a vampire tap on a wire that literally went to nowhere. I admit it feels weird to be yanking out "restoration" parts that have themselves failed, like the glove box liner and the A/C ducting... but I have to remind myself that now those parts are 20 years old and they weren't made any better than the originals. I think this time I'm going to leave them out to force me to finally shell out on a Vintage Air or equivalent, instead of throwing (much less) money at a decrepit old system.
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Sep 28, 2020 06:10
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IOwnCalculus posted:My old unit was a Lennox 12HPB42, which seems to have been a 12 SEER. I threw a fan / contactor / capacitor at the outside unit last August when the fan stopped working and caused the compressor to thermally overload, but other than that it was doing its job fine. Right up until the outside coil popped a leak I had no real reason to rush into a replacement. The tech that did the temporary work thinks the stuck TXV on the inside unit might have been the straw that broke the camel's back. I've seen Goodman around. Are HVAC companies like most other manufacturing areas where there are the name brand big dogs that also put out product under different labels?  cleaning up the wiring of others is always an adventure.
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Sep 28, 2020 17:01
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meatpimp posted:I've seen Goodman around. Are HVAC companies like most other manufacturing areas where there are the name brand big dogs that also put out product under different labels? Yeah, Goodman is Daikin - which also sells under their own brand, as well as Amana. I'm more familiar with Daikin on the industrial side but seeing it was made by them was good enough for me. quote:
"Others" in this case often means "younger, dumber me just making do with whatever scraps of wire I had on hand".
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Sep 28, 2020 17:44
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So after doing more disassembly, and looking closer at the "factory" part of the reworked factory harness: Yeah.  Most of the injectors have at least one wire looking like that.I don't know how I haven't had any actual wiring issues but at this point I'm yanking the harness out and replacing it with a new aftermarket harness. This one will get thrown in storage, cursed at for a while, and then maybe eventually gone through in detail (not on a vehicle) in order to prep it for the TJ.
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Oct 1, 2020 05:47
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IOwnCalculus posted:So after doing more disassembly, and looking closer at the "factory" part of the reworked factory harness: Well th'urs yer problem That is a nightmare situation... That'll cause some fuckery. 
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Oct 4, 2020 01:24
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Progress being made. I now have the LS harness about halfway disconnected, I think from everything I can get to up top. Still to go for sure are the O2 sensors, transmission and VSS, knock sensors, fuel pump relay, starter, and cam/crank sensors. I think it might also be hooked up to the factory Camaro oil pressure sender for literally no reason whatsoever because I don't think early LS PCMs like mine actually capture that as a PID. I've also stripped out most of the wiring from the nonfunctional factory air, gotten the jammed bowden cables and control unit out of the way, and the cabling I can't remove without pulling the whole unit will be tied up way out of the way. I also pulled the entire dash harness out of the truck for probably the first time ever. The wiring dangling in the center is the radio harness - it's effectively completely separate from everything else. Factory all the radio got was a single wire that plugged into a 1/4" quick connect on the fuse block, since there was no need for memory. It grounded through the chassis and connected to a dash-mount speaker directly above. With everything I've yanked out (and the elimination of the factory feed for the blower motor) I think I might be able to make this new setup work without actually splicing into any of the factory wiring, other than what I've butchered for the gauge cluster.  The dimmer switch did not survive being unplugged, so I have a new switch and a new pigtail on the way. Similar thing happened with the plug that goes through the firewall for the taillights, one of the conductors pulled through and apparently it's only available as the entire intermediate harness that runs from the firewall to somewhere under the bed. So I've got one of those on order.  Sat down and repaired some remaining damage from an electrical fire 20 years ago, and rerouted some of the wires to make more sense. The turn signal indicators, for example, were originally routed directly from the plug at the steering column. Given how much wiring I've yanked out of this harness, it makes more sense to splice them at the bulkhead, where about half the wires are already coming from. I can't repin the engine side of the wiring harness, so there's no need to send 12V ignition/crank to the stub of a resistor wire. Likewise all of the ammeter wiring, voltage regulator wiring, and the brake warning switch wire are all gone. The amount of excess wiring in this truck was just insane. I think before I disassembled this the starter signal wire went across the width of the truck three times before it hit the relay. I think I'm about at the point where I can start putting things back into the truck, at least inside the cab. I need to get the rest of the existing LS harness out before I start laying the new one in but I think I'm going to be able to mount the PCM up on the driver's side of the core support, where the voltage regulator used to live. Should clean things up a lot and more importantly will keep more of the wiring away from the passenger exhaust header. Once I get all that done I'm also going to order up some new battery cables, as well as a boatload of ground straps. I'm not convinced that the cab has a great ground path to the rest of the truck right now.
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Oct 11, 2020 03:25
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Finally hit dirt for the first time since getting the 8.8 and locker installed in April. https://i.imgur.com/u92RzZE.mp4 Granted that little set of rocks does not even remotely need a locker but I can now say for sure that my locker... locks. Also, 4.56 gears on 33s is loving perfect. Other things showed up finally for the TJ - this mount had been backordered for literal months at Quadratec. Ended up buying one on eBay.  New horns. Much, much louder than the lovely single horn. My mounting job is a bit ehhh but it'll be fine (until it's not).  Nothing to really show on the C10 but I have the mostly-new headlight harness about halfway done. Bits and pieces keep showing up in the mail to finish things out so that I can keep wire colors consistent for an entire run (or, at least, up until a connector).
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Oct 20, 2020 04:16
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Considerable progress has been made on the C10's wiring. I think I have the fuse box mounted for the last time, and compared to before now all of the branches coming out of it make sense and are all either for a single purpose (i.e. headlight switch) or for devices adjacent to each other. The blue tape is bundling together wires I haven't done a final routing / sheath on. There's the backup light wires and brake light switch wires, both of which I'll probably do last. There's also the wires feeding the harness to the rear taillights, which is too short to run in any way other than dangling in space, so I'll need to add a few inches to them. That might also wait until I push it back and lift it up to replace the exterior harness from the firewall to the bed, so I can have matching wire colors the whole way through.
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Oct 25, 2020 07:17
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https://i.imgur.com/tdVl5jf.mp4 P1282 makes no loving sense since that's "fuel pump relay control circuit open or short" and... it still runs. P0442 seems at least possible, but I'm going to build a smoke tester to figure out where.
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Oct 29, 2020 03:22
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Still waiting on nichrome wire for the smoke tester so I can figure out why the Jeep thinks it has an evap leak. Should also probably plug in and get freeze frame data. No real photos in progress but I did the longest / heaviest tow yet with the Canyon on Sunday. Two horses in the trailer, three adult passengers and one generously proportioned OP, ~50 miles one way across town. Truck did absolutely flawlessly and still averaged something like 15-16 MPG loaded. I bought exactly the right amount of truck for my needs and not a bit more. I'm sure it'll do the climb up I17 to Flagstaff with a similar load as well - though I guarantee it's not going to be able to maintain 75MPH the whole way. Only casualty was this trailer tire, but it ate that nail sometime before the trip. 
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Nov 2, 2020 21:07
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That was one long Tuesday, wasn't it?   Did some maintenance on the Canyon last night / this morning. The factory (and ACDelco replacement, of course) air filter actually has a foam prefilter glued onto it too. Filter on the right has just under 33k on it. Also changed the engine oil (finally managed not to dribble the remnants in the filter everywhere) and the transmission fluid and filter. There are two annoying as hell things about setting the ATF level. One is that it is done using a standpipe setup in the oil pan, so you should have it just dribbling out when it's at temperature. This on its own would be fine but the other problem is that on at least this 6L50 (and I think all of the 6Lxx transmissions), that temperature is only 30-50C / 86-122F. So even dumping seven+ quarts of ambient-temp ATF into it, you shoot pretty much straight into the middle of that range almost right away and you have very little time before even at idle you're up against the upper limit. This also means that doing this job accurately is pretty much impossible during the summer.
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Nov 9, 2020 00:04
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On the P0442, you've already tried a new gas cap, right?
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Nov 9, 2020 15:10
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I have not thrown a single part at it yet. Cleared the code and it hasn't come back yet but it also hasn't set ready either. I did get my smoke machine working without melting down and when I send smoke down the back half of the evap system, not only do I see no leaks but I actually had to pop the gas cap off due to pressure building up. So if there's actually a leak it must be in the underhood section, where the hoses are literally rock hard.
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Nov 9, 2020 15:55
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Gotta love what heat does to vacuum hoses! I spent a couple of years chasing random evap codes on my mom's last car - all of the hoses involved were rock hard, and under the engine cover (everything outside of the cover was almost like new). Finally got it to where it wouldn't pop the evap code until it ran that particular readiness monitor, which was always the last to set (TX allows one not ready), but never did find the remainder of the leak(s). Easy enough to keep most cars from running it, don't let them get below 3/4 of a tank. I did banish the CEL for about a year at one point, but a smoke machine would have been a big help. I still wouldn't rule out the gas cap until you've smoked the whole system - you put it under pressure, when the evap test puts it under vacuum. That fuel pump relay is an odd one - does it turn on the CEL by itself? I know my Nissan always had a knock sensor code, but it never turned on the light.
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Nov 9, 2020 17:25
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Don't know if that relay control code is enough to set a CEL, but it had self-cleared before I ever got around to plugging in a code scanner instead of just doing the key dance. I'm going to write that one off as the computer just throwing a shitfit. For extra bonus fun, I'm pretty sure most of the evap hoses underhood are officially no longer available, and they're all some funky hoses with multiple bends because they jammed the charcoal canister and leak detection pump all right there together between the washer bottle and the master cylinder. It's one of those things where I'm pretty sure I'll change the outcome by observing it so I'll just have to put some miles on it and see if the code resets. Still have until next August before it gets emissioned again.
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Nov 9, 2020 17:44
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Did enough driving for it to re-attempt the evap test and P0442 came back. Given that you're right about this: STR posted:I still wouldn't rule out the gas cap until you've smoked the whole system - you put it under pressure, when the evap test puts it under vacuum. I'm going to throw a new cap at it and see if that changes it. It looks like poo poo anyway.
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Nov 11, 2020 00:36
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Number of times someone has rifled through the Jeep without taking anything: 2 Number of codes the new gas cap fixed: 0 I think I'll smoke it again and check a few possible problem points on/around the tank even closer but I suspect it'll be one of the underhood lines.
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Nov 19, 2020 15:55
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So I took the week off as usual for Thanksgiving, and decided to knock out the timing cover on the Jeep. My RTV-gob wasn't holding up to the fact that the front two oil pan bolts were just sort of "there" instead of actually threaded into anything. Figured it'd be quick and easy to knock out. Even had this exact conversation with my wife: https://www.youtube.com/watch?v=uL0ROeZw7wA Famous last words. Pulling the front off the engine wasn't so bad. Treated myself to the 3/8 stubby M12 impact and Astro nano impact sockets, which are awesome for the most part. When I opened up the timing cover, I think I discovered the noise I've had on random startups.  The "chain damper" that's supposed to be one piece tucked into the side of the cover, is in fact in two pieces, one of which was floating around the inside of the chain. Also, clearly this engine has been ridden hard and not gotten oil changes as often as it should. As far as the chain itself? https://i.imgur.com/VKCPUfo.mp4 Plenty of slack, and a pretty decent bit of wear in the teeth of the gears to match with the rollers. I then noticed that my new "fits 2002 Jeep Wrangler" timing cover is just... new:  The main issue is the second bolt up the passenger side. This "new" cover fits older model engines, which use a 5/16-18 thread bolt with a big shoulder on it. Later-style ones (which year counts as "late" depends on the model because of course Jeep did that) use a 1/4-20 bolt without any shoulder. Literally nobody makes the late timing cover new that I have found. In the interest of getting back on the road soon(ish) I've decided to work around this for now by using a nylon bushing to take up the difference in diameters, instead of waiting on an eBay cover.  Harmonic balancer has a major groove worn in it, and:  The rubber is starting to chunk out of it. So, added a timing set and new balancer to the shopping list. Being down to only one running vehicle now meant not getting out to Autozone to get a set until late Sunday night. Went to install it Monday morning and discovered that the loving cam gear is underbored. Not by much, it barely starts on, but it seems like it either tapers too quick or the key (integral to the gear) is too large. Went to OReilly's Monday night and picked up their timing set, since it seems that neither of them stocks more than one of these at a time, and only at their hub stores ~15 miles away. Cam gear went on. Crank gear did not because now that one is either underbored or doesn't have the keyway cut wide enough. So tonight I went to the nearest Jeep dealership to see if they had a Mopar set on hand. Not only did they not, their parts counter recommended against even ordering it through them since both the cam and crank gears were showing backordered with no supplier available. Rockauto says they have the Mopar set but it's two weeks away. https://www.youtube.com/watch?v=l6MUtatvdDI Gonna do some mix-and-match tomorrow so I can get this thing back on the road. Oh, and those Astro sockets, why are they only awesome for the most part?  That 16mm is somehow narrower than 15mm...  Because the 15mm, isn't. Got a replacement set showing up tomorrow at least.
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Nov 25, 2020 06:14
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If you haven't ordered a timing set anywhere, I have a brand new one from Crown Automotive. That I've owned for no joke, 11 years and never put on a Jeep. I don't need it. Part number 53020444K-E. Includes guide, sprockets, front seal, cover gasket and chain. A little flash rust on the larger gears in very fingerprint like marks, probably from me picking the gear up and looking at it in 2009, I can brillo pad it off or you can. I wasn't really expecting to sell it but if you want, I can overnight it tomorrow for whatever price you think is fair that's under current retail value of like 58 bucks. Double check it'll fit first. I don't know what year 4.0s it matches but I ordered it for my 96 XJ.
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Nov 25, 2020 06:24
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Appreciate the hell out of the offer but it looks like that kit is set up for the early cam with a dowel pin. Mine has a keyway machined into the nose of the cam and the cam gear has a key cast into it to match.
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Nov 25, 2020 06:29
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drat! I guess it will sit on my parts shelf for another 9 years now Edit: the crank gear has a slot for a key, the cam gear has a dowel pin hole.
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Nov 25, 2020 06:40
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Both of mine are keyed. Crank has a key cast into it and a keyway cut in the gear, cam has a keyway cut into it and a key cast into the gear. Both of these defective timing sets almost feel close enough that I could file them into working, but I'd just as soon stick with gears that actually work out of the box.
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Nov 25, 2020 06:44
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I had no idea they even made different timing sets that way, so I learned something today. I wonder why they're not fitting? Seems like a big quality control issue.
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Nov 25, 2020 06:59
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It seems to correspond with when they switched from the spring between the cam and the timing cover, to a thrust plate mounted on the block. The Mopar parts catalog diagram still shows the non-existent spring setup, though.
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Nov 25, 2020 16:18
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Got everything bolted back together tonight. Just need to put some coolant in it, fire it up, and bleed it. For reference, this is the cutting and grinding that has to be done to make this "early" style cover fit the late TJ accessory setup:  Since that boss isn't used by the TJ accessory drive, it fouls the alternator bracket first and then the tensioner itself. You have to cut it off just about flush with the face of the cover, and take out a bit more than half its thickness.
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Nov 26, 2020 05:44
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Only had one hose clamp that needed snugging up once it got water in it, which is nice. But, of course, the new balancer's belt path is slightly smaller than the original. So the stock size belt is now just barely too loose. The tensioner is putting *some* tension on it but bottoms out before it puts enough on to keep it from slipping. Oh well. Ordered up a few replacement options that are slightly shorter. Amusingly, one of them is the same belt size my WJ used
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Nov 26, 2020 17:47
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Is this a 1-year-only configuration or something? I assumed all Jeep stuff is well known and documented, weird that you've got to trail blaze!
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Nov 26, 2020 18:20
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I'm kind of surprised by that too. Is the tensioner worn out maybe? Or did you replace it too? Meatpimp, I think this is more bad runs of parts causing issues than single year stuff. Typically Jeep parts will fit anywhere from 4-5 years to decades worth of vehicles. But if someone hosed up and made a part with an interference fit instead of a slip fit, or didn't chamfer a corner, it turns into a shitfest fast.
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Nov 26, 2020 18:50
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Yeah, I didn't exactly splurge for a Mopar balancer either. I wouldn't put it past Autozone to use the same balancer spreading across more years than it should, or just poo poo quality control resulting in a slightly undersize pulley. It pressed on fine and isn't pissing oil so it'll stay. Nothing else changed in the belt path. I did have to unmount the alternator but I don't see any room for adjustment on it, even though it calls the lower bolt a "pivot" in the manual. A new belt is easy to deal with anyway.
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Nov 26, 2020 20:40
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Decided to double check the belt diagram in the FSM for shits and grins, since whatever diagram was under hood is long gone. I had the belt routed wrong 
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Nov 27, 2020 00:37
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that'd do it. Time to draw your own on the cowl in paint pen.
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Nov 27, 2020 00:43
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I hate it when I gently caress up like that.
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Nov 27, 2020 00:51
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