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Dr. Fishopolis posted:. Definitely don't retract over 5mm, ever. I just got an ender 5 pro and noticed the demo gcode retracts 10mm. What's the 5mm upper limit about?
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Sep 25, 2020 19:50
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taqueso posted:I just got an ender 5 pro and noticed the demo gcode retracts 10mm. What's the 5mm upper limit about? Don't want to pull melted filament out of the melt zone and into the heat break where it can harden and cause a jam.
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Sep 25, 2020 20:00
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exactly. this isn't an issue on stock creality hotends though, you can go nuts with retraction if you want (but, like, don't)
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Sep 25, 2020 21:18
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biracial bear for uncut posted:3d Printers: Get an Ender or a Prusa Unless I can get a good deal on Craigslist/Facebook market of course. And deeply questioning if I should for the Ender-grade 3d printer of Prusa with multicolor. PLA + Resin or just one?
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Sep 25, 2020 21:23
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Fire Storm posted:And deeply questioning if I should for the Ender-grade 3d printer of Prusa with multicolor. PLA + Resin or just one? What?
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Sep 25, 2020 21:38
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So I've definitely found my problem. It was kinda clogged. I did cold pull as suggested by one of Thomas Sanladerer's videos. And pulled out a hunk of junk. I pulled my bowden tube out and cleaned from the top a bunch and got it really clean. I noticed my bowden tube wasn't cut flat, it was already attached when I got it so stupid me didn't check it. I cut it flat and pushed it in all of the way and did a quick reprint and it looks great. Speaking of retraction distance, I did not follow that 5 mm max. When I was testing retraction tests, I found 7 mm looked the best. I did a few further prints with that setting. I'm guessing that high retraction length and not flush bowden tube caused all of my problems.
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Sep 25, 2020 21:53
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calandryll posted:Speaking of retraction distance, I did not follow that 5 mm max. When I was testing retraction tests, I found 7 mm looked the best. I did a few further prints with that setting. I'm guessing that high retraction length and not flush bowden tube caused all of my problems. I don't think the retraction did it, it's almost certainly the bowden not sitting flush against the nozzle. I only mentioned the retraction thing because I thought you had an all-metal V6. Creality hotends don't exactly have a heatbreak to jam, it's just teflon all the way to the melt zone so unless you're retracting waaaay too much it's not really an issue. Honestly I think all-metal hotends are best reserved for direct drive setups for this reason, it's a pain in the rear end to tune the retraction just right otherwise.
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Sep 25, 2020 21:59
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biracial bear for uncut posted:3d Printers: Get an Ender or a Prusa 3d Printer: Sure, maybe I'd also suggest a Monoprice Mini Delta? Auto bed leveling and such, cheapest you can get for a full feature printer. Just stick to PLA and you'll be happy. Laser Cutters: There's a lot of chinese ones that work.. fine... But it's one of those situations where "if you're asking, they're not for you". CNC Mill/Lathe: The 3010 mills are getting a following. Or build your own? https://www.crankorgan.com I built a brute, and mine was taking 3/4x3/4" cuts in aluminum, so... yeah, that's a thing. Sagebrush posted:lol This amazes me. When I first was introduced to 3d printing, it was at that level. It might be fun to discuss all the things demonstrated there. Hot ends, at first, some weren't even like.. actively cooled. And they were hand made by winding nichrome wire around a bobbin, and insulated with refractory putty. (I've made a few of these). Modern common hot ends use a heater cartriage, and a machined heater block, a careful heatbreak, and a cooling fan. While we're at it, we also have part cooling fans, which end up being a lot more important than one might imagine. (and if you watch Thomas's latest video, are the core limit on how fast a prusa can print cleanly.) Iterations and revisions have happened dozens of times over the last decade, and even ~right now~ there's distinct differences between them. Early printers were dependent on a host computer. They were dead simple, dumb, CNC driven machines. Frequently, there wasn't even a single board. At the time I got in, the common answer was a arudino mega and a giant shield that you mounted drivers to. Each driver had to be tuned... I picked up a kit printer 4 years ago. I only finished assembling it a few months ago, even THAT one needed the drivers tuned, and it had/has an integrated driver board. Nowdays, most printers come with a completely integrated driver board, often with an interface driver on it as well. Fancy ones even have software controlled steps and driver current. Fancier ones can even get around most endstops by checking stepper current. This too has seen dozens of revisions. And a few different lineages. Even the frames have evolved radically. The early stuff in the Mendel project was really focused on self replicating 3d printers. This kinda kneecapped things for a while. Perhaps it related to the patent stuff, but also FOSS bleeds over. This lead to some... questionable design decisions. Frame design has gone from "well this works" to "cartesian or delta" and "we're mostly going to use the right materials for the job". *coughs in acrylic frame i3..* Most recently we've started seeing core x-y. A lot of the delta development was stymied by 8bit controllers, when 32 bit came around.. well so did the deltas. When you buy a decent printer now, there's a metal frame, often 20x20 or custom extrusions, or at worst laser cut steel. They're solid (if light duty) CNC machines now. Heated beds. I mean, just.. the heated bed.. and the materials used on them has come a long way. The first printers I saw, were printing on hardboard beds. No heat. The early heated beds were always something.. "made up" either an etched board glued/clamped to the actual build surface, or a commercial silicone pad that never was actually the size of the heated bed. These days we expect an aluminum PCB with traces as part of the bed. And then.. surfaces. Glass. Tape. The two classics. But these days we've moved on, PEI, Buildtak, spring steel with special coatings. Magnetic mats... Boy talk about what 10 years will do. Even the idea of bed leveling. Prusa went the path of "we'll measure it and do it in software" Good on them. But better printers are more rigid, and dont' lose level like say.. the early mendel designs. I can grab my ender, or MPMD from the handle or top rail, carry them across the room, and the print goes on undisturbed. That i3 clone, doesn't even have a part cooling fan, or a provision for one.
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Sep 25, 2020 22:07
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The first desktop printer I owned didn't even have a Z-axis switch (not enough inputs on the board). You would just manually move it up and down until the nozzle just touched the bed, then send a G92 Z0. If the layer was too thick or thin, you cancelled the print and started over.
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Sep 25, 2020 22:31
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biracial bear for uncut posted:3d Printers: Get an Ender or a Prusa I guess if you're holding tenths or just really love Haas. A loaded Tormach PCNC 440 is barely over half that. I've heard generally positive things (for a benchtop) about Taig CNC jobs from the other thread for way less. And yes, gently caress Glowforge.
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Sep 25, 2020 22:41
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That Mendel pic reminded me of that hilarious ZMorph machine from circa 2013 or so. Are they still around? Holy poo poo! Here you go! 
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Sep 25, 2020 22:56
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Are heated filament boxes A Thing people use or are they just to sucker Amazon shoppers? (I mean the boxes that are used while you print) I just leave my filament on a spool and I go through it in a couple weeks.
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Sep 25, 2020 23:22
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Doctor Zero posted:Are heated filament boxes A Thing people use or are they just to sucker Amazon shoppers? Are you talking about the filament boxes or the full on enclosures? If the former, I honestly haven't known anybody to purchase one. But I do know many people with dehydrators and air-tight containers for dry boxes that are very similar. You don't really need the dehydrator if you have proper storage for the number of spools you have in mid-long time storage; especially if PLA, it just gulps moisture out of the air (at least it does here with an AVG of 50% humidity). I have no insight to enclosures, other than I can't imagine why you'd need to control the heat at that level if you have a heated bed you can accomplish the same thing with just any ol' enclosure for the most part.
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Sep 25, 2020 23:41
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Some sort of sealed box is appropriate if you're printing very sensitive filament (either nylon or water-soluble supports, generally). Heated might be overkill if you're good about keeping your filament dry, but if it absorbs moisture, you cannot drive the water out with just dry air. Heat is required at that point. If you're just printing PLA or PET and you either go through a roll in less than a month or put it back into the bag between prints, I wouldn't worry about it. I have seen some decrease in print quality with old PLA that's been sitting out in the air here in San Francisco, but it's not huge and it takes a while to get there. It doesn't become literally unprintable like nylon (it fizzes and bubbles after 24 hours sitting out) or soluble support (starts to melt into goo in a similar interval) filaments do when they get waterlogged. Sagebrush fucked around with this message at 23:53 on Sep 25, 2020 |
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Sep 25, 2020 23:47
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Doctor Zero posted:Are heated filament boxes A Thing people use or are they just to sucker Amazon shoppers? Those are mostly for the engineering plastics that have to be super dry. Vision Miner winds its moisture sensitive stuff onto metal spools for drying for example (and they sell a lot of industrial printers and accessories): https://www.youtube.com/watch?v=gAIARZh9JV4
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Sep 25, 2020 23:52
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Doctor Zero posted:Are heated filament boxes A Thing people use or are they just to sucker Amazon shoppers? A feed drybox is worth it, and while it's easy to add a heater it's extremely not necessary as mentioned by others. It's nice to know that you can walk away from the printer for a week or three and not even consider moisture problems. 
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Sep 25, 2020 23:56
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Gonna put an enclosure around my Mini next week and do something insane. Attempt to print with HDPE filament!
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Sep 25, 2020 23:59
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let us know how it works, i've been curious about PP and HDPE filament but getting them to stick sounds monstrous
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Sep 26, 2020 00:03
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Hypnolobster posted:A feed drybox is worth it, and while it's easy to add a heater it's extremely not necessary as mentioned by others. cool, thanks goons. That picture gives me ideas - we have the exact same containers... 
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Sep 26, 2020 00:34
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Sagebrush posted:let us know how it works, i've been curious about PP and HDPE filament but getting them to stick sounds monstrous An unenclosed trial got adhesion by putting a layer of packing tape down (won't stick to PEI, glue stick, hairspray or glass), but about six layers in it warped hard enough to pull the tape up (the tape was stuck to the HDPE but good, though). So, enclosure time.
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Sep 26, 2020 01:10
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The only thing I really want to change about this is that good deltas far precede 32 bit boards. The rostock and the kossel are the 2 major reprap designs, and seemecnc has sold a whole line of delta printers. Their current stuff is 32bit based, but they've also moved upmarket from their start. I have an orion from them and it works well.
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Sep 26, 2020 03:19
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biracial bear for uncut posted:An unenclosed trial got adhesion by putting a layer of packing tape down (won't stick to PEI, glue stick, hairspray or glass), but about six layers in it warped hard enough to pull the tape up (the tape was stuck to the HDPE but good, though). That's encouraging. What are you making? HDPE would be such a useful filament if it wasn't such a warpy bad layer adhesion bitch.
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Sep 26, 2020 03:29
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Attempting to make a part that is also difficult to make with simple 3-axis milling machines (holes at compound angles relative to the shape of the part). Hard to explain, but if I don't forget I'll post a pic of the 3d model Monday when I'm at work.
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Sep 26, 2020 13:48
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Is that something my fancy printers could do?
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Sep 26, 2020 14:31
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insta posted:Is that something my fancy printers could do? Probably? Filaments.ca was the only vendor I found that sold HDPE filament though. Some Pinko Commie fucked around with this message at 14:41 on Sep 26, 2020 |
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Sep 26, 2020 14:35
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RadioPassive posted:Speaking of which, how hard is it to use my Ender 3 as a CNC paper cutter? Stick a knife on there and run some jazzed up gcode? Depends on the type of cutting and paper you want but you would almost certainly be infinitely better off just buying an entry level Vinyl cutter that you could just print a vector image file to. Professional cutting machines are typically "CNC Linear cutters" and have a rotation axis on the head to keep the knife in the correct direction for each cut and you have to make allowances for how tight you can cut curves, how to approach corners, etc. They use em for all kinds of neat stuff though like leather or Kevlar with a vibrating knife.
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Sep 26, 2020 19:11
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Can any of the cheap cnc mills handle aluminum?
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Sep 26, 2020 20:20
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Depends on how you define 'handle aluminum' but largely no. You can cut aluminum on a MPCNC if you absolutely dial feeds and speeds, and that's about the most capable in the 'cheap' category (if you have a 3d printer).
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Sep 26, 2020 21:00
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Aurium posted:The only thing I really want to change about this is that good deltas far precede 32 bit boards. The rostock and the kossel are the 2 major reprap designs, and seemecnc has sold a whole line of delta printers. Their current stuff is 32bit based, but they've also moved upmarket from their start. I have an orion from them and it works well. I expected argument or more information. Are we saying I got that .. list.. story? whatever mostly right? hahaha. Deltas were limited in speed by processing speed, which almost defeated the purpose of a delta. Speaking of which, it's time for me to mess with my delta today. Scarodactyl posted:Can any of the cheap cnc mills handle aluminum? Yes. But the answer is a lot more complex than that. If you're asking, the question is more or less no. If you're doing conventional milling the whole time. With a short tool. You can be fine. But there's more to it than that......
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Sep 26, 2020 21:21
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That's fair. I guess the first step will be making an mpcnc and learning some basics. At this point I wouldn't need anything super intricate in aluminum, it'd just be nice to drill precisely placed outlines and holes for adapter plates instead of doing it all by hand (though 3d printed drilling guides have helped a lot on that).
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Sep 26, 2020 21:34
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Scarodactyl posted:Can any of the cheap cnc mills handle aluminum? Define cheap? You can get one of these, https://www.grizzly.com/products/Grizzly-4-x-16-Mini-Milling-Machine/G8689, or similair and put a CNC kit on it that consists of 3 stepper motors to drive the handles and a control board. It will handle aluminum fine and isn't a whole lot more expensive than an assembled Prusa.
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Sep 26, 2020 22:26
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Nerobro posted:I expected argument or more information. Are we saying I got that .. list.. story? whatever mostly right? hahaha. I still don't really agree, it's easier to get my orion to go faster than most cartesian bots. Deltas were one of the big drivers of sd based printing because it was easier for them to drain gcode buffer. Maybe it could go even faster with a faster processor, but I don't currently print as fast as it can go to get better quality. As long as we're on the topic of how old stuff went together, the old hot ends really were interesting. You mentioned that many weren't actively cooled, but they really didn't need it because they used much more thermally insulating materials, and didn't suffer heat creep like steel throats do. There was also a step between nichrome bobbins and cartridges, my first hot end used a 2w 6.8ohm resistor covered in exhaust putty run at about 20w. One thing that is taken completely for granted is that modern cold ends use stepper drives to accurately dose the plastic, the early drives just used regular dc motors controlled with pwm. It amuses me to see you call them dumb machines too. I understand where you're coming from as they were dependent to a computer for a stream of instructions, but compared them to hobby cnc machines they're far far smarter. Hobby cnc fed step and direction signals directly out of the parallel port to stepper drivers. Many hobby cncs now have an interpreter, but the parallel port style is still common. Other odd things, the very earliest electronics didn't use gcode, but had multiprocessor distributed systems.
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Sep 27, 2020 02:57
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Aurium posted:I still don't really agree, it's easier to get my orion to go faster than most cartesian bots. Deltas were one of the big drivers of sd based printing because it was easier for them to drain gcode buffer. Maybe it could go even faster with a faster processor, but I don't currently print as fast as it can go to get better quality. quote:As long as we're on the topic of how old stuff went together, the old hot ends really were interesting. You mentioned that many weren't actively cooled, but they really didn't need it because they used much more thermally insulating materials, and didn't suffer heat creep like steel throats do. There was also a step between nichrome bobbins and cartridges, my first hot end used a 2w 6.8ohm resistor covered in exhaust putty run at about 20w. One thing that is taken completely for granted is that modern cold ends use stepper drives to accurately dose the plastic, the early drives just used regular dc motors controlled with pwm. quote:It amuses me to see you call them dumb machines too. I understand where you're coming from as they were dependent to a computer for a stream of instructions, but compared them to hobby cnc machines they're far far smarter. Hobby cnc fed step and direction signals directly out of the parallel port to stepper drivers.
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Sep 27, 2020 18:51
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DC feed motor was one of those ideas that couldn't go the way of the Dodo fast enough. It seems repulsively bad in hindsight but it had its reasons at the time.
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Sep 27, 2020 18:58
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Yeah the first hotend I had was one of the early J-heads and the fact that it had an actual heater cartridge instead of a big resistor was a major innovation. No cooling, all plastic above the heater block, and you glued the cartridge in place with muffler putty and kapton tape. The nozzle was an integral feature machined into the block. Desktop 3D printing has come a looong way in ten years.
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Sep 27, 2020 19:29
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What are some good filament brands that have a shorter delivery window than Prusament? Asked for some for my birthday, and my parents need recommendations.
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Sep 28, 2020 03:35
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I've been having great luck with Zyltech filaments all year. They ship fast and you can avoid Amazon, if that's important to you.
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Sep 28, 2020 04:17
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I’ve been using Atomic and like it. I can tell it’s definitely better than run of the mill whatever generic brand. More consistent color and extrusions
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Sep 28, 2020 04:24
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I've only been printing for a few months but Hatchbox seems pretty good and it's very cheap. $20-23 for 1kg of PLA. Everything else I've tried in that price range isn't even close to the same quality.
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Sep 28, 2020 07:52
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Jessie PLA from printed solid, IC3D for ABS or PETG, Atomic for the same any techier filled ABS/PETG filaments. Taulman for nylon and PC. All fully US made filament and well priced. Jessie PLA in particular is excellent and like $19 a roll (and free shipping over $45 or something). All significantly better filament than various nearly-generic spools from Amazon, and gently caress amazon anyways. Zyltech is on my list to try too, because I'm a fan of theirs for motion components. I'm not sure if they're making it themselves. This is definitely one of those things that would be great to have in an updated OP. Hypnolobster fucked around with this message at 10:29 on Sep 28, 2020 |
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Sep 28, 2020 10:21
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