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I do most of my cash banking online with Capital One, but I still keep a checking account at my local credit union (BECU as mentioned) for convenience and it doesn’t cost me anything. In recent past, I have needed a medallion signature for transferring a brokerage account, and a cashiers check to close on a refi. So not very often but handy to be able to pop in and deal with that stuff. The Co-Op network for ATMs is huge as well, but online banks tend to have good ATM networks and reimbursements as well.
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Sep 30, 2020 16:44
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Space Gopher posted:I learned a real good lesson about this when I took my phone out of airplane mode landing in LAX to find a fraud alert waiting for me. When I called Chase, they were kind enough to let me know that my card was locked out. I was on a work trip with a few other folks from the office, and thankfully, a co-worker was able to throw down their card to cover my hotel reservation for the first night. Without that help, I would have had a real rough time. Chase is the absolute worst / most paranoid about randomly flagging accounts for fraud and locking cards. I do still have some Chase credit cards but I only use them for specific online purchases and never actually take them anywhere because of that. I do all of my banking through Ally. I keep an ancient BofA account to have access to their ATMs for cash deposits, and their tellers for the rare time I need to notarize a vehicle title or get a cashier's check / cash for a large purchase. Seeing as I average doing one of those things less than once a year, the hassle of moving money back to BofA ahead of time for a large cash purchase is worth it.
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Sep 30, 2020 18:42
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Serious edge case here, but I want to share a Bank of America story. When I was in India last year, my wife and I went to an ATM to make a withdrawal. We're taking out around $600 (~42,000 INR) to give to a friend as a wedding gift, and BOA's debit conversion fees are way, way lower than going to an actual money changer. Swipe the card, enter the pin, ask for money, enter the pin again (wtf?), and then the machine starts whirring as it's counting the bills. The power goes out just before the money slot opens. poo poo. Okay, it happens. That's Udaipur for you. Wait around for 15 min, power comes on again, we redo the transaction. Rejected this time. I get on the phone with BOA's international line, wait and wait and wait and wait. Thirty minutes or so pass without them ever taking me off of hold music, which point the cellular network drops my call. Turn on the data and check my e-mail: I have two fraud alerts. One for someone withdrawing 42,000 rupees from an ATM in India, and one for someone trying to do it again. I call the line again. This time I get through in about ten minutes, and as I'm going through the usual security questions, the call drops. A few min later, a THIRD fraud alert pops up: someone tried to access my account over the phone and then hung up when asked security questions.  Lost in all of this at the time, at least to me, is that the first fraud alert says someone withdrew 42,000 rupees. The machine never gave me the money because of the power going out. Later on once I get everything sorted out, I realize what's happened there and dispute the transaction. BOA comes back with an ATM timestamped code-list showing that I made the transaction and it was accepted, plus all the codes indicating the money was processed and being handed to me. Dispute rejected. "No, it never gave it to me! The power went out!" "There is nothing on the code list indicating that the power dropped, sir." Of course there isn't... the power went out. That's what happens when the POWER GOES OUT (and you don't have your ATMs on a universal power supply for whatever insane reason, probably Because India.) The kicker to all of this is that we even called BOA ahead of time and gave them the dates we were going to be in India.
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Sep 30, 2020 19:06
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Devonaut posted:How feasible is it to do exclusively online banking? I use a local credit union for checking and savings but I'm moving to a new state where they have no branches. Thinking I might just switch to entirely online, but I wonder about things like depositing checks, and occasional services like cashier's checks and medallion signatures. Guess I'll chime in. I moved states about a decade ago and have been using Schwab entirely online ever since. Check deposit via phone or you can mail it to them if you wanted to. Absolutely no fees for checking or savings, I think you have to do a trade with them to get a higher interest rate but (I think) they've done away with commissions on trades so that's not hard to do if you care. Unlimited ATM fee rebates including abroad (I've racked up hundreds in a month in Europe and the US and gotten it all back before). And their customer service is domestic without script and once overnighted checks to me for free after I asked if the turnaround could be any quicker. In short, if you won't feel dirty going with a big investment bank I can recommend them.
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Sep 30, 2020 19:31
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IOwnCalculus posted:Chase is the absolute worst / most paranoid about randomly flagging accounts for fraud and locking cards. I do still have some Chase credit cards but I only use them for specific online purchases and never actually take them anywhere because of that. I've had much worse experiences with Citi than with Chase on this. At least when Chase flagged that transaction and locked down my card, somebody had actually stolen my credit card number. With Citi, I was in Southeast Asia, had a travel alert set for Malaysia, and tried to use my credit card in the KL airport to buy a SIM card. It was rejected; I got an email about suspicious activity with a "click here to authorize the transaction" button. I did that, and it took me to a landing page that said "thank you, please try the transaction again." When I do, it's rejected again, and I quickly get a much harsher email about how my card is locked out due to multiple unauthorized foreign transactions and I need to call them immediately. That's where it was very handy to just sigh and pull out the backup credit card. Getting the account unlocked was a pain, of course, because Citi was convinced I was a foreign scammer impersonating myself, until I found a customer service rep who was willing to just bypass all their security checks. I didn't ever actually verify my identity - either they wanted me to do effectively impossible things like call from my US phone number or go into a US (not Malaysian!) branch with ID, or they just set aside every check past "what's the card number, expiration date, and name on the account?" My Citi card is the backup, now.
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Sep 30, 2020 19:34
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Fraud alerts aside, my experience with credit cards internationally has been randomly hit or miss without any real consistency. For the most part any Visa or MC works most of the time, but for some reason a card may just refuse to work with some foreign POS system for reasons. It's a really good idea to have multiple credit cards in case one of them decides to just not work, especially if you're traveling outside of North America or Western Europe. My debit card (which I only use at legit bank ATMs) has been hit or miss as well, but that seems more that some foreign banks just don't work with it. Trying a different bank has always worked. Still cheaper and more convenient than a cash exchange.
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Sep 30, 2020 19:40
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I have always had very good international support from Amex, but of course its acceptance is fairly limited.
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Sep 30, 2020 20:10
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KYOON GRIFFEY JR posted:I have always had very good international support from Amex, but of course its acceptance is fairly limited. Out of curiosity, why is this the case? Is it because Visa/MasterCard do not issue cards directly like Amex or Discover? Are there other, more minor players in this space other than the big 2/4? How’s the international market? I’d be surprised if countries like Russia, India, China use just VISA/MasterCard, but I’ve never even heard of any competitors in that space.
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Sep 30, 2020 22:26
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Cat Army 
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The Iron Rose posted:Out of curiosity, why is this the case? Is it because Visa/MasterCard do not issue cards directly like Amex or Discover? Are there other, more minor players in this space other than the big 2/4? How’s the international market? I’d be surprised if countries like Russia, India, China use just VISA/MasterCard, but I’ve never even heard of any competitors in that space. Amex charges a higher fee (I think same with Discover) and if I’m remembering this right is notorious on siding with customers on disputes, so a lot of companies don’t accept Amex because of the cost and plus they’re difficult to deal with.
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Sep 30, 2020 22:33
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Thanks for the suggestions everyone. My credit union has been good to me and I've appreciated having a local branch I can go to in case I need something unusual, so I'll stick with that at the new location. I do like the idea of moving everything else online though, I'll investigate that some more. For simplicity I prefer to consolidate into as few accounts as possible, but I think it makes sense to use both in this case since I won't be paying fees for the multiple accounts anyway, and I can get the best of both.
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Sep 30, 2020 22:42
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The Iron Rose posted:I’d be surprised if countries like Russia, India, China use just VISA/MasterCard, but I’ve never even heard of any competitors in that space. There are some regionally popular cards outside the US, like JCB in Japan, and UnionPay in China.
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Oct 1, 2020 04:36
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The Iron Rose posted:Out of curiosity, why is this the case? Is it because Visa/MasterCard do not issue cards directly like Amex or Discover? Are there other, more minor players in this space other than the big 2/4? How’s the international market? I’d be surprised if countries like Russia, India, China use just VISA/MasterCard, but I’ve never even heard of any competitors in that space. Amex generally charges higher fees to merchants. There are not actually that many minor players in the space as network effects are significant. It's a lot more efficient to have one or two big networks for customers, merchants, and payment processors than it is to have a bunch of fragmented players. For instance, Eurocard was a decently sized European player in the 1960s-1980s, then signed a JV agreement with Mastercard (Maestro, you sometimes still see the branding, it looks like MasterCard but red and blue not red and yellow), and then was fully merged in to Mastercard in the early 2000s. In the developing world there's a lot of cell phone based and direct banking payment.
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Oct 1, 2020 12:48
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Duckman2008 posted:The main downside is there is no way to deposit cash. For reasonable amounts of cash (<$10K) you can buy money orders at the post office ($1.75 per $1000) and deposit those like checks. IOwnCalculus posted:Chase is the absolute worst / most paranoid about randomly flagging accounts for fraud and locking cards. It's been my experience that Chase is highly attuned to your purchasing patterns so what they'll flag depends on how you use the card. I've used a Chase card as my primary travel card for forever and don't even bother to tell them when I'm leaving the country anymore. It's always worked straight away wherever I've gone. Someone did manage to clone the card once and use it at a Walmart in a suburb local to me. That poo poo got flagged instantly because I don't shop at Walmart.
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Oct 1, 2020 14:13
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SlapActionJackson posted:For reasonable amounts of cash (<$10K) you can buy money orders at the post office ($1.75 per $1000) and deposit those like checks. Some banks/credit unions will not accept e-deposits of money orders, so do check that in advance.
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Oct 1, 2020 21:22
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SlapActionJackson posted:Someone did manage to clone the card once and use it at a Walmart in a suburb local to me. That poo poo got flagged instantly because I don't shop at Walmart. Wish I had this on my old Fidelity Cash Management account. They cloned my debit card and emptied my acct at a Orlando Walmart, took them 2 weeks to restore the funds.
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Oct 1, 2020 22:08
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BigDave posted:Wish I had this on my old Fidelity Cash Management account. They cloned my debit card and emptied my acct at a Orlando Walmart, took them 2 weeks to restore the funds. If you've got a backup card, you don't even lose out on having your credit card locked.
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Oct 2, 2020 00:20
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Thanatosian posted:I recognize that not everyone can do this, but you shouldn't use your debit card to pay for anything if you can avoid it. If your credit card gets stolen, your credit card company has a problem; if your debit card gets stolen, you have a problem. I work for an FI, and I have an ATM card instead of a debit card. And to further this: You can have a checking account for your bills, and a checking (or savings) account for your ATM withdrawals. I have a few hundo in my "atm" checking account and the mortgage payment in my "real" checking account. Mind you I mail everyone those account and routing numbers every month in the form of a check but such is life. This is my local ATM, I have 0 fear putting my ATM card in there:  
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Oct 2, 2020 01:20
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H110Hawk posted:And to further this: You can have a checking account for your bills, and a checking (or savings) account for your ATM withdrawals. I have a few hundo in my "atm" checking account and the mortgage payment in my "real" checking account. Mind you I mail everyone those account and routing numbers every month in the form of a check but such is life. This is my local ATM, I have 0 fear putting my ATM card in there: I use my CS account this way. use it all over the world to get cash, keep like $1K in there.
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Oct 2, 2020 03:34
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Small White Dragon posted:Some banks/credit unions will not accept e-deposits of money orders, so do check that in advance. Well, you can always just mail 'em in, since you're already at the post office 
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Oct 2, 2020 04:19
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BFC Newbie-to-taxable investing question: Should I lock in my short term capital gains? This is my first year of taxable investing, and I’m trying to understand what to do. I’ve got my retirement allocation all set in my retirement accounts, and max those out before any taxable investing (personal IRA and work 403b.) I’m 37, all retirement accounts get maxed (personal IRA and work 403b). (If I should have posted this into the Long Term thread instead, my apologies.) I tax loss harvested about $1500 in losses earlier this year, when I swapped my VTSAX into VFIAX. But now i’m up about $3000 in gains on the VFIAX. I’ve calculated my 2020 taxes should be (top marginal bracket) of 24% federal and 6% CA. I’m salaried with no bonuses, so it’s a fairly certain estimate. Thus, I estimate the $3000 in gains will result in $900 in taxes and $2100 available to be immediately reinvested into VTSAX. If I wait until next year, and the market was exactly the same, I understand it’d be LTCG so I’d only pay 15% federal + 6% CA (assuming everything else remains steady in my life) so i’d end up paying $630 in taxes with 2370 to reinvest, assuming the market magically does not change between now and then. So i understand waiting is best in that situation, as i’d have an extra $270 to reinvest. That all makes sense. But one can guess the market will probably not be in the exact spot it is now, though i’ve no clue if it’ll be up or down. If the market is up at this time next year, then reinvesting now still gives me some gains next year which I could lock in again, so that seems beneficial for future Elvis. If the market is down at this time next year, then reinvesting now gives me some tax loss harvesting to do next year, which also seems beneficial for future Elvis. Thus, it seems like locking in my current gains is the better decision than to wait until next year. I’m content waiting until next year, and i don’t want to time the market - it just feels strange to not lock in gains when i am certain i have them. What am i missing? I’m sure there’s some further concepts or framework of understanding that’ll help clear up my thinking, so please, wise goons, why’s it better to wait until I have LTCG on these particular lots? (To reiterate, this is my first year dealing with taxable investing, and nobody in my family has any knowledge of this sort of thing. I have gathered all my understanding from reading this wonderful forum, Bogleheads, a few FIRE blogs focused on actual numbers/processes (e.g. mad fientist, physician on fire, the stock series from JLCollins), and actual IRS tax manuals.)
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Oct 15, 2020 04:56
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I'm struggling with this. You're basically incurring an unnecessary taxable event to use your tax loss to offset those unnecessary taxes, rather than just using the tax loss to offset your existing ordinary income tax burden. I assume you don't need the money right now and the money you've invested is for future needs. Let's walk through this using some hypothetical numbers. You bought a hundred shares of VFIAX @ 100/share, investing $10,000. Now it's worth $130. You are considering selling shares @130 to reduce your investment in VFIAX back to $10,000, which will leave you with 77 shares of VFIAX currently valued at $10,000, plus a reinvestment of $2100 (profits less losses less taxes), which will buy you (let's say 42 @ $50) VSTAX shares, giving you a total of 77 shares of VFIAX and 42 shares of VSTAX valued at a total of $12,090. You have moved a bunch of stuff around to have a portfolio that is worth $910 less than it would have been had you just not touched it. Your loss applies to your ordinary federal income taxes. Why don't you use it there? That way, you still hold your hundred shares of FVIAX, and you reduce your tax obligations to the federal government.
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Oct 15, 2020 14:40
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Elvis Enwright posted:BFC Newbie-to-taxable investing question: Should I lock in my short term capital gains? Which would you rather pay, your marginal tax rate (24%, short term cap gains) or 15% (LTCG)? You can offset a portion of your earned income with the investment losses at $3000/year, so assuming all is normal, take your $1500 and offset your ordinary income, and let your gains compound and eventually sell at long term rates. Suddenly you saved 9% on taxes using only paper losses. Isn't being rich great?
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Oct 15, 2020 14:52
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H110Hawk posted:Which would you rather pay, your marginal tax rate (24%, short term cap gains) or 15% (LTCG)? You can offset a portion of your earned income with the investment losses at $3000/year, so assuming all is normal, take your $1500 and offset your ordinary income, and let your gains compound and eventually sell at long term rates. Suddenly you saved 9% on taxes using only paper losses. Isn't being rich great? Thanks KYOON and Hawk, Of course, I’d rather pay the 15%, and (presuming I will listen to y’alls’ reasonable takes) plan to save on my taxes from the $1500 loss I harvested earlier this year. I take your point that the extra 9% ($270 in this example) that I’ll have in the future is the actual, simple answer to “why wait to lock in gains.” It may not feel like that big of a deal in comparison with the guaranteed gains now, but figuring the market will probably be up again in the future (no certainty in the next 5+ years of course) entails I should ignore those paper gains and just let compounding work its magic. It’s essentially a 9% bonus for waiting, though I won’t know how long that wait might be. (If it goes down next year, I can tax loss harvest again for up to $3k off our ordinary taxable income each year) That feels much clearer in my mind.
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Oct 15, 2020 16:00
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Elvis Enwright posted:Thanks KYOON and Hawk, The problem is, you're creating unnecessary churn. You already locked in the loss for harvesting purposes. Unless you need the money, there is NO NEED to create an extra taxable event. Then again, I know someone who for some reason thought they have to sell the contents of their taxable account each year "or the gains didn't count"  don't be that person.
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Oct 18, 2020 14:36
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We recently just paid off all our credit card debt at the beginning of 2020 (feels good!) but one card is kind of pissing me off and I feel like closing it. I know this can negatively impact my credit but here are the details. It’s the Chase Freedom Unlimited with a 24.99% interest rate. My credit score normally hovers around 795 and my other credit cards (Wells Fargo Visa I’ve had for 15 years and Apple Card opened a few months ago) have a 13-14% interest rate. I’ve called Chase and they said they literally don’t let people request a review to get a lower interest rate and my thought is, OK, gently caress you then, i can close this card and never do business with you again. The card is about 3 years old. I’ve never closed a revolving credit account - is it a straight bad idea or given my decent credit score plus the fact I have no need for credit in the next 5-10 years should I dump Chase?
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Oct 18, 2020 16:44
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If you're worried about the interest rate of a credit card you are credit carding very, very wrong.
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Oct 18, 2020 16:46
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LuckyCat posted:We recently just paid off all our credit card debt at the beginning of 2020 (feels good!) but one card is kind of pissing me off and I feel like closing it. I know this can negatively impact my credit but here are the details. It is a straight bad idea, and you just posted a whole story about why. Paragraph 1 is you not needing to worry about interest rate again. Paragraphs 2 3 and 4 are you worrying about interest rates. You're free now. Use the cards and never pay them a dime beyond the 3% they get for running your card in the first place. If you need financing get a 0% promo card. For example last time I looked at my credit card rates 25% was the lowest of my cards, and 30% was the highest. Interest I've paid on them since turning 21? $0. Good job BTW paying off your debts.  now keep up that discipline but towards saving and build yourself a cushion so that you can stay that way.
H110Hawk fucked around with this message at 16:53 on Oct 18, 2020 |
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Oct 18, 2020 16:50
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Thanks! I know the interest rate doesn’t matter if I’m not holding a balance but it just irks me for some reason. I’ll swallow my pride and be sensible!
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Oct 18, 2020 16:57
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LuckyCat posted:Thanks! I know the interest rate doesn’t matter if I’m not holding a balance but it just irks me for some reason. I’ll swallow my pride and be sensible! OTOH, it's not going to hurt your credit that bad as long as you have other, older cards, so if you really want to close it, go ahead.
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Oct 18, 2020 17:14
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LuckyCat posted:Thanks! I know the interest rate doesn’t matter if I’m not holding a balance but it just irks me for some reason. I’ll swallow my pride and be sensible! It's not pride, it's spite. Turn back on paper billing, support your local post office. Cost the credit card company more.
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Oct 18, 2020 17:23
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Inheritance question: I am a beneficiary to my mothers NYC Teachers Retirement System TDA. I am completely ignorant of tax law, my mother is doped out of her mind on pain killers and cannot give me a clear answer. TRS itself isnt taking calls because the phone line has a 2 day waiting period. They only call back my mother when I am not there. Upon her passing what exactly happens, what is my tax burden, can I continue to have the 7% interest, just in general wtf. I just got POA this last week and still need to get my grounding before actually managing her finances. Note: she has not made any changes to her finances in over 10 years and everything is mismanaged to the point of stagnation. According to this basic google search, I wont be able to hold the 7% interest but would it still remain a TDA under a lower interest? Should I have the payouts go into a basic account or go into an IRA or such? In addition this is the most clear explanation of what my options are, but of course tax law has changed then since we live in a hell world. (2016)"The beneficiary of a death benefit on a TDA has three options under IRC section 72(s): 1) collect a lump sum, with any tax-deferred growth taxable; 2) annuitize the death benefit over the beneficiary’s life expectancy, applying the exclusion ratio to recover the original owner’s basis on a pro rata basis; or 3) take a five-year settlement with no required distributions during the period, but with the entire amount required to be taken by the end of the fifth year." https://thechiefleader.com/news/pro...3f53b87156.html https://finance.zacks.com/taxes-inheritance-tax-deferred-annuity-9369.html
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Oct 19, 2020 03:22
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Gaj posted:(2016)"The beneficiary of a death benefit on a TDA has three options under IRC section 72(s): 1) collect a lump sum, with any tax-deferred growth taxable; 2) annuitize the death benefit over the beneficiary’s life expectancy, applying the exclusion ratio to recover the original owner’s basis on a pro rata basis; or 3) take a five-year settlement with no required distributions during the period, but with the entire amount required to be taken by the end of the fifth year." I just went through this last year with my dad. All his stuff was at TD Ameritrade, so I had to set up an account with them, and they just transferred all his holdings to me. Once that was settled, I called Vanguard to set up an inherited IRA, and then transferred everything there. Since my dad was holding a lot of really dumb funds with ridiculous ERs, I liquidated everything and put it back into a 3 different Vanguard funds. I personally went with your option #2 as I didn't need the money right away. At the beginning of the year, Vanguard sends me an email saying "You have to take out $x,xxx this year" in required minimum distributions. And of course as soon as I did this year's RMD, the rules changed because of COVID. Anything you take out will be taxed as income at normal income tax rates, and not as short/long term capital gains. If you need cash now to pay off debts, or whatever else, just take the money. If there is a decent amount, and you can let it grow, go with option 2 and just take the RMDs if she was at the age where she would have had to start taking RMDs. .
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Oct 19, 2020 13:02
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Not sure if this is a question for this thread but — How does one go about finding a decent financial advisor? I have no talent or time for investing, financial vehicles are all mostly gibberish to me, and as a result I have most of my money sitting in my checking account doing nothing. I need 6k in there to maintain my “free” checking with all the bells and whistles like safety deposit box, and probably a 3-4k buffer for ancillary spending or immediate emergency liquidity, but anything above that I gather should be working for me not sitting idle. I have zero debts other than revolving CC debt that gets paid off every month, and do maintain a TFSA with a single mutual fund that I dump a bunch of money into every paycheck so it’s not that I’m doing NOTHING but I’m also doing the TFSA out of habit because I started on a whim and not because I researched it well or anything. I’m wary of just going to use the financial advisor services from my bank because I have a suspicion they’ll just buy the bank’s own investments whether they’re the best for me or not. I don’t even know how to begin sourcing someone independent or reputable. Is it as easy as googling “financial advisor <my area>” or is there something else I need to look into? My goals are partially retirement and my realistic outlook is probably 25 years out, but my other goal is just to see my “savings” grow because I like to see that number go up. some kinda jackal fucked around with this message at 13:28 on Oct 19, 2020 |
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Oct 19, 2020 13:25
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Are you in Canada? Napfa.org is the best search site for the US, not sure about Canada, but what you're looking for is a CFP or CPA/PFP that is a fee-only fiduciary and independent from any big brokerage (like Edward Jones etc). For your situation, maybe search XYPN or the Garrett network, they work with lower asset levels. Or just make your own thread here, and we will probably give all the same advice for free. Or at least post here to double check the advice you get isn't terrible.
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Oct 19, 2020 14:39
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Will do, thanks! If nothing else that gives me an understanding of what to look for Canadian equivalents of!
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Oct 19, 2020 16:56
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Martytoof posted:Will do, thanks! If nothing else that gives me an understanding of what to look for Canadian equivalents of! 6k in checking seems excessive, are the free services you're getting more valuable than moving that to a high yield savings account?
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Oct 19, 2020 23:02
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Medullah posted:6k in checking seems excessive, are the free services you're getting more valuable than moving that to a high yield savings account? I would say that seems low without knowing their monthly burn rate. I try to keep 2 months going in mine which rounds up to around $15k. Makes my day to day hassle free for all of the autopaid bills that come out of it. I don't take action below $20k.
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Oct 19, 2020 23:33
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Without throwing out specific numbers I think 3-4k would easily sustain a two month burn in a crunch due to my living arrangements and lack of other commitments. 6k is a number I just never really gave much thought to. If I dip below that I don’t really think the fees on my services would be terribly onerous — the deposit box is probably fairly cheap though I haven’t looked into the price, and I literally live off my credit card for travel points so I rarely use the bank’s own payment schemes enough to hit their “free account “limit. I’m at the account I use because I started a well paying job and really just piled up enough money to where I said “okay now I have enough to get the better account for free” and never gave it much of a second thought. But now that I’m thinking about where else to put that money this might be a good thought exercise to partake in.
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Oct 19, 2020 23:50
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Hey Marty, what's good? As with most people who come here asking for money advice, the starting point really is your goals. Of course growing savings is good, it gives you flexibility - but the whole point is to be able to use it to travel, or buy a house, or start a business, or quit your job, or whatever... if you haven't put some thought to things you might want to do with the money, it's a good idea because different strategies are gonna align with different goals.
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Oct 20, 2020 00:01
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Martytoof posted:Without throwing out specific numbers I think 3-4k would easily sustain a two month burn in a crunch due to my living arrangements and lack of other commitments. 6k is a number I just never really gave much thought to. It's not, to me, a crunch number. It's just cash flow that keeps my life easy in steady state. If I needed to crunch I would be hopefully able to shave a few grand off my burn rate. To our esteemed other posters point, without a goal nothing matters. I would keep things free, any fee would immediately eat the $3/year in interest you might get .
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Oct 20, 2020 01:00
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