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I'll admit I don't know much about enamels but if it was an acrylic I'd say It looks like maybe the primer didn't adhere properly to the PLA, or possibly the paint trapped some moisture under it and didn't adhere to the primer. If you've used the paint/primer combo before it might be due to some environmental factor like heat or humidity. You probably won't know for sure until you strip it. Is the glossy part solid, or is it malleable? If you put pressure on it with a finger, does it deform?
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Oct 2, 2020 21:45
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Red Herring posted:
Man this guy looks great! You did an excellent job
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Oct 2, 2020 23:29
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Must have been something with that piece. I tested the same paint on scrap prints that I had laying around that I primer, painted and enameled and it went fine. That's super odd.
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Oct 3, 2020 00:12
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Rythe posted:Must have been something with that piece. I tested the same paint on scrap prints that I had laying around that I primer, painted and enameled and it went fine. Did you spray that topcoat on? If so it's possible you sprayed too close or didn't shake it enough and the propellant got onto your surface. Moisture / heat can cause weird poo poo like that too.
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Oct 3, 2020 01:17
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I'm thinking it was something stupid that I did when it came to not shaking the can enough. I have probably done 50+ pieces with no issues and then I forget a basic fundamental like shaking enough. I'll probably wait to coat my next items until after l let everything cure overnight. I am out of filament for my printer and if I screw up I'm boned.
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Oct 3, 2020 02:25
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On an spray-adjacent note, finally going to pick up a bottle of Stynlrez, but when I was reading the reviews a bunch of people kept mentioning how easy it is to sand and...is that something I'm supposed to have been doing with primer all this time? Is sanding primer one of the secrets to super-smooth coverage that nobody talks about?
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Oct 3, 2020 21:15
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Grizzled Patriarch posted:On an spray-adjacent note, finally going to pick up a bottle of Stynlrez, but when I was reading the reviews a bunch of people kept mentioning how easy it is to sand and...is that something I'm supposed to have been doing with primer all this time? Is sanding primer one of the secrets to super-smooth coverage that nobody talks about? not really with mini painting. the sandable thing is more of a plus in the scale modelling side of things where you run into things like seams between like fuselage halves and priming is a good way to see where you need more sanding to get things flush
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Oct 3, 2020 21:49
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Paragon8 posted:not really with mini painting. Ah ok, I was sitting here wondering if I'd been a dumbass all these years and it was just something everybody knew about. On a completely unrelated note, but does anyone have a recommendation for an absurdly rich / saturated red? Trying to figure out how the hell the dude did this cloak or if it's just post-processing trickery, I can't remember seeing red that vibrant on any mini in real life. 
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Oct 3, 2020 22:21
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It's a post processed image to boost contrast but you can probably get something close to that in real life if you slam some naphthol red ink through an airbrush after you've done your tones
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Oct 3, 2020 22:27
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One trick to vibrant red is highlighting it with a light fleshtone and then going back over it with a few glazes of a red ink. This keeps it from turning pink but still makes it read as more red than the adjacent red.
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Oct 3, 2020 22:42
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Anyone have a link to the cool brushstrokey Skaven that got posted a few months back? I think they must have been done in oils bit I'm not sure
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Oct 3, 2020 23:43
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Grizzled Patriarch posted:Ah ok, I was sitting here wondering if I'd been a dumbass all these years and it was just something everybody knew about. Get a highly saturated red paint and thin it as little as you can get away with for your basecoat. Thinning brings down your saturation and red is a difficult color to get coverage with to begin with. I use Kimera which is basically painting red on easy mode, but thinning a red paint with red ink would probably also work well. From there glaze in your shade color, I'd recommend a warm brown for warm reds and a magenta for cool reds (there are plenty of other good choices, of course). Then layer on some exaggerated highlights, I'd recommend mixing some orange or yellow + base red + white for warm reds and just base red + white for cool reds. Do some final sharp highlights on edges and creases, I wouldn't recommend going to pure white at any point in this process unless you're looking for an extremely shiny silk or something, since you'll have problems glazing over it in the next step. After doing the highlights glaze over over them with your base to reestablish them as red rather than the pink or orange they've probably ended up as. You'll probably have to do a few glazes because as I mentioned earlier red has bad coverage. I'd say the most important thing is that if you want really saturated red like that you can't dilute it too much or its going to take 20 coats to get good saturation at a dilution where a color like green might take 2 or 3.
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Oct 3, 2020 23:58
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Sounds like I've got a bunch of new techniques for painting red to try out then! I've been meaning to give inks a try so I guess now I have a good excuse. Thanks guys.
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Oct 4, 2020 07:47
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So I’ve been working on a thing. If you choose to airbrush yellow next to black do yourself a favour and learn from whatever insanity kept me from keeping the hull in sub assemblies. 
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Oct 4, 2020 16:51
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Silly Putty works as a mask too if you're careful not to overspray past the putty (I always spray past the putty)
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Oct 4, 2020 17:03
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The Moon Monster posted:Get a highly saturated red paint and thin it as little as you can get away with for your basecoat. Thinning brings down your saturation and red is a difficult color to get coverage with to begin with. I use Kimera which is basically painting red on easy mode, but thinning a red paint with red ink would probably also work well. From there glaze in your shade color, I'd recommend a warm brown for warm reds and a magenta for cool reds (there are plenty of other good choices, of course). Then layer on some exaggerated highlights, I'd recommend mixing some orange or yellow + base red + white for warm reds and just base red + white for cool reds. Do some final sharp highlights on edges and creases, I wouldn't recommend going to pure white at any point in this process unless you're looking for an extremely shiny silk or something, since you'll have problems glazing over it in the next step. After doing the highlights glaze over over them with your base to reestablish them as red rather than the pink or orange they've probably ended up as. You'll probably have to do a few glazes because as I mentioned earlier red has bad coverage. I have been using P3 Red Ink "thinned" (really, thickened) 1:1 with Vallejo Glaze Medium and I get very good results after 3-5 coats (edit: I am brush painting, to be clear) which feels pretty decent for a thin glaze. This is what I get after a dip wash, and I could have had much more saturated colors with only one or two more coats:  This is over a black>grey>white zenithal prime, pure white would also yield a much more saturated result. Ink is the way to go for saturated red imo. Mirthless fucked around with this message at 20:59 on Oct 4, 2020 |
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Oct 4, 2020 20:32
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Mr Teatime posted:So I’ve been working on a thing. If you choose to airbrush yellow next to black do yourself a favour and learn from whatever insanity kept me from keeping the hull in sub assemblies. I am concerned about the level of self harm you are inflicting on yourself here.
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Oct 4, 2020 20:42
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Mechs! Painted these guys to clear out my backlog. 
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Oct 4, 2020 20:53
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Am I just doing it wrong or is zenithal priming not as impressive as I expected
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Oct 4, 2020 21:19
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I said come in! posted:I am concerned about the level of self harm you are inflicting on yourself here. I even glued the sponson turrets on before painting. My only saving grace was leaving all the repulsion plates off.
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Oct 4, 2020 21:21
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 Like here's my 2 latest attempts at zenithal priming
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Oct 4, 2020 21:26
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Seems fine to me, you can go a little harder with the highlights and shadows if you want. It won't show up under your basecoat unless your are using thin glazes or inks anyway.
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Oct 4, 2020 21:34
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Phi230 posted:Am I just doing it wrong or is zenithal priming not as impressive as I expected You could be zenithal priming them more starkly if you wanted, try hitting it with another spray of white from above after that if you want a stronger zenithal effect. That said I think it's at its most useful/efficacious if you're painting with an airbrush or glazes/washes. Zenithal undercoats tend to disappear under regular brush painting. It's a good way to have your recesses primed black while other areas are grey or white, which is real nice.
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Oct 4, 2020 21:37
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Oh ok I guess I was just expecting it differently.
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Oct 4, 2020 21:40
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Phi230 posted:
What is that giant model?
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Oct 4, 2020 21:51
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Sab669 posted:What is that giant model? Its Nolzur's Frost Giant
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Oct 4, 2020 22:03
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 Turbo dorks metallics are dope. People eater purple applied fantastically. Pearly gates is masked on the left but honestly doesn't photograph well. Really subtle colorshifting metallic white Paints flat, almost has a textured look from the amount of metallic pigment in there though
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Oct 4, 2020 22:28
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Phi230 posted:Am I just doing it wrong or is zenithal priming not as impressive as I expected You need to use transparent paint or its largely pointless Get glaze medium and/or a line of paint meant for layering or glazing. With transparent paint it can make a very dramatic difference
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Oct 5, 2020 00:21
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One advantage you get from a zenithal is the easier coverage/brighter colors from painting over a white prime but your shadows are already black. This is especially helpful if you're painting tons of minis for an army, as a missed spot or two will not show up nearly as bad as something that was only primed white. But yea, like a lot of people have said, it works especially well if you use it as a base for further airbrush painting or glazing. Or hell even just use it as a guideline to start off your lighting and make it easier to see details. Even if you completely cover it there's still some benefit to be had and it barely takes any time at all to spray the quick layer of white from the top.
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Oct 5, 2020 00:28
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Addendum to my earlier post now that I'm home - nearly the entire army painter line is transparent to some degree and cutting it with a medium will smooth it out and let you apply a lot of transparent layers of paint that will dry thin and build up opacity layer by layer. If your transitions are smooth on the primer (either /w airbrushing or drybrushing the transitions) you can get some very bold shadows with 2-3 layers of thin transparent paint and some very simple highlighting Every paint line is different and you gotta experiment Mirthless fucked around with this message at 01:17 on Oct 5, 2020 |
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Oct 5, 2020 01:11
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finished the necron plasmacyte whatsit that's been sitting on my desk mostly done for ages:  
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Oct 5, 2020 07:15
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I love pink glow necrons, and you have managed to get a great vibrant pink there. I am going to have a hard time not painting my Indomitus ones in a similar way despite having a bunch of pink Sylvaneth and Slaanesh models.
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Oct 5, 2020 07:41
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Cinara posted:I love pink glow necrons, and you have managed to get a great vibrant pink there. thanks! - and go for it; plenty of ways to make them visually distinct from each other beyond just having pink only thing I will advise is, if you use a fluro paint like I did, test it on something you can strip back easy. takes a bit of adapting to since the pigments are the difficult kind
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Oct 5, 2020 11:21
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I realized that I don’t like painting my Crimson Fists, so I’m working on a new project instead. The test model came out nice so I’m going in balls deep: Link for bigger image and bonus closeup of my best helmet to date: here Condoleezza Nice! fucked around with this message at 13:07 on Oct 5, 2020 |
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Oct 5, 2020 13:04
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Condoleezza Nice! posted:I realized that I don’t like painting my Crimson Fists, so I’m working on a new project instead. The test model came out nice so I’m going in balls deep: Paint their hands blue and call them Navy Fists
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Oct 5, 2020 13:09
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Crosspost from 40k:^burtle posted:Sorry for the spam, still learning how to lightbox but just a brief check in from me:
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Oct 5, 2020 18:12
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I’m always relieved after doing the grungy chipping and washes when I’m working on something. I always worry that my base colours aren’t quite what I want but this step seems to always make things come together for me. 
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Oct 5, 2020 21:13
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Assessor of Maat posted:only thing I will advise is, if you use a fluro paint like I did, test it on something you can strip back easy. takes a bit of adapting to since the pigments are the difficult kind Yea, fluorescent paints are really weird to work with, that's what I use to highlight the pink for my Slaneesh. They have absolutely no coverage and if you're not careful will just go everywhere but where you actually want it, like the worst wash you ever bought. But drat if you get a hang of them they are vibrant, and on the plus side they work fantastic through an airbrush.
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Oct 5, 2020 21:28
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Condoleezza Nice! posted:I realized that I don’t like painting my Crimson Fists, so I’m working on a new project instead. The test model came out nice so I’m going in balls deep: At some point I'll get to my indomitus box and I was going to do Blood Ravens. I'd been trying to think of what to do the officer helms, and that white is a nice contrast.
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Oct 6, 2020 19:50
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I'm trying to come up with hobby related things to put on my Christmas/birthday list, and I need some ideas. What are things you'd love to have but probably wouldn't buy for yourself? Or would buy, but aren't really "necessary"?
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Oct 6, 2020 20:21
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