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DrBouvenstein posted:I am somehow having a lot of trouble finding the part I need, a wire harness/connector to my 2008 Mazda 3S low beam. What's weird to me is the connector in your photo looks like a three wire connection, which perhaps Mazda decided all cars get the same connection and sized a socket to fit your bulb? I would take the male end down to the auto parts store and see if you can try a few different pigtails. This one looks a lot more like the one you have. But if course it's impossible to tell the sizes. https://www.autozone.com/electrical...899_216208_4155 And the ever present option of last resort, just use a couple of blade connectors loose. Will definitely get you light, and you can hit the junkyard at your leisure.
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Oct 6, 2020 15:32
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e: nevermind
eddiewalker fucked around with this message at 15:56 on Oct 6, 2020 |
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Oct 6, 2020 15:53
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Motronic posted:Replacement body parts don't come painted. This is why you got a junkyard suggestion: you can possibly find one off a car of the same color. I've purchased prepainted replacement parts before (from the dealer). Mirrors and door handles can often be ordered already painted, but they're generally special order. You can sometimes even get bumper covers already painted (for your first and second born), but generally it's just mirrors and door handles. Though it's a major pain in the dick when they insist your car is one color and the VIN (and shade of the paint) says something different. "special order, no returns" even though you gave them the drat VIN to order that drat door handle. gently caress off, Toyota of Richardson. They gave me the base model Camry white (which AFAIK didn't even exist on the 2nd gen Avalon), not the pearl white that the car came with. Luckily it wasn't too noticeable. It was $85, IIRC, which was a shitload cheaper than a new door handle + paint. The dealer quoted $750 to replace it themselves (ordering a new handle, painting it, then installing)... when you can just get the drat thing from Toyota already painted and swap it in an hour (if you invent enough new words.. an hour and a half otherwise). Brennanite posted:I have realized I am far more attached to other people's perception that I take good care of my car than the car itself, which is probably worth a chat with a therapist, but practically it means I would better off putting the $500 it would cost to fix it through insurance into a savings account for a new car than making a strictly cosmetic repair. Thanks for the advice. To be honest, it probably wouldn't cost much more to replace the door skin and have it repainted, so long as you don't ask them to blend it to the rest of the car. It'll stand out to someone with a good eye as being repaired (particularly if they're wearing polarized sunglasses, they really make metal flake being put down in a slightly different direction very obvious), but for the casual bystander it'll look fine. If it's a Corolla or Civic, you might see some of that money back whenever you sell it (assuming you sell private party). Anything else... so long as the window still rolls up/down, I wouldn't bother with anything beyond having someone pull the dent a bit.
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Oct 6, 2020 17:27
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Do you guys use a mylar bag for proximity keys?
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Oct 7, 2020 05:51
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The Gamma 2 engine in your car shares a weak point with previous 1.6 litre Hyundai engines - migrating reluctor rings on the crankshaft. These rings can move slightly along the crankshaft, causing the crankshaft position sensor to not get accurate data reliably, which causes the engine to stop running or not start sometimes. There is not a tb for this as far as I know, but it's a common enough issue that anyone familiar with Hyundai engines should be able to diagnose and fix with relative ease.
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Oct 7, 2020 06:39
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Charles posted:Do you guys use a mylar bag for proximity keys? Tin cookie box.
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Oct 7, 2020 07:42
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StormDrain posted:What's weird to me is the connector in your photo looks like a three wire connection, which perhaps Mazda decided all cars get the same connection and sized a socket to fit your bulb? I would take the male end down to the auto parts store and see if you can try a few different pigtails. I also thought it was weird it looked like a 3-prong connector but was only using 2...I haven't looked at the high beam or fog light bulbs to see if they use the same one, though even then I'm not sure why either of those would need three prongs? Isn't that usually for dual high/low headlights? One positive for each, and then they share a negative/ground? The problem is I KNOW I have the remains of the connector I snipped off, just have to find it to bring it in to the parts store to compare, but that does look similar. And yeah, right now it's temporarily connected from female spade connectors on the remaining bits of wires connected into that bulb harness thingy. Not great, but it works for now.
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Oct 7, 2020 15:51
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Yeah that really looks like an H4 connector - which is a dual filament bulb (generally shared negative, switched positive, unless you're weird and/or Subaru.. then it's a shared positive and switched negative). Odd, but maybe they went "ohshi" during a refresh and decided it was cheaper to use an adapter?
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Oct 7, 2020 21:32
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Vehicle: 1992 ram van/b250 Speedometer was taking a while after startup to actually kick in and register movement. I replaced the speed sensor, and that problem went completely away. A few weeks later, the speedo started acting up again, but not the same way - it will read wrong (like 30 when I'm going 60), or read 0, or be pegged as high as it physically goes. The odometer still increments accurately, and nothing* else seems to be amiss. Given the speed sensor being brand new, what's the trailhead to chase here? *on the same trip where the current problem showed itself, I also noticed (by sound and then visually) a big split in the muffler. I don't know how that could possibly relate, but when two things break at once, it bears at least noting
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Oct 8, 2020 03:09
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1999 plymouth voyager 3.3l For the last few weeks it randomly takes many tries to start. Most of the time when this is happening there will either be nothing at all or a bit of a humming/buzzing noise and no cranking, but sometimes it'll crank briefly then stop. The dash lights and a/c kick in normally when turning the key to the on position while all all this is happening. It seems most likely to happen on the first start of the day but it can go days without happening or happen at every start for the day. Usually if it happens more than once in a day the later starts take fewer tries. Battery's new, cables are tight, and it's entirely too warm out to be having trouble starting the van. dis astranagant fucked around with this message at 06:53 on Oct 8, 2020 |
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Oct 8, 2020 06:49
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Starter or starter solenoid (on the starter) is failing.
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Oct 8, 2020 15:06
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Javid posted:Vehicle: 1992 ram van/b250 Did you clock the VSS correctly when installing it? Is the wiring harness to it dragging on the exhaust or a driveshaft perhaps? Speedo flaking out lower than actual speed is normally the sender not being clocked correctly on install and the gear teeth not fully contacting the drive gear. If it goes on long enough it normally chews up the teeth on the plastic gear and now you need a new one. Flaking out higher than actual speed is usually wiring issues, on my 91 Comanche (same exact hardware as yours) it was because the VSS harness was melting on the downpipe and it turns out it's just a reed switch so of course when it really started intermittently shorting out, the ECU interpreted the rapid shorting and unshorting as me driving ridiculously fast.
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Oct 8, 2020 15:59
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He did say the odometer seems to be registering properly though, regardless of what the speedometer is doing. So... maybe the speedometer itself?
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Oct 8, 2020 16:07
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Maybe. Could also be that the signal is averaging out to the right number of pulses per mile still, or just isn't far enough off to noticeably affect the odo reading. I usually default to checking the most recently changed parts, especially when there are common mistakes that can be made that might not be noticed if you haven't made them before. If it's not what I said, the cluster itself is basically the only other thing that fails much, though. I don't think the signal is even processed by the ECU, fairly certain it goes straight from the VSS to the cluster on those.
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Oct 8, 2020 16:19
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To be fair, it's a 1992 Dodge. It's already 25 years past its design life. 
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Oct 8, 2020 19:19
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I had just put in an order for Mission Automotive Silicone Paste for doing new brake pads on my F-Type (if it matters?) and got back that they are out of stock, amazon showing low stock/long ship times for it also. I just kinda googled for that brand in the first place TBH, if I get 3M Silicone Paste from a local shop is that good/bad? Should I get something different?
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Oct 9, 2020 07:02
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Most any brand name "brake lubricant" will be fine. Some are ceramic based these days. I used to use Sil-glide, or maybe it was Syl-glide, but I can't find it anymore. Lately I've been using something by Permatex. Don't recall the name, but its orange and is ceramic based. FWIW, I am satisfied with the product.
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Oct 9, 2020 11:35
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tangy yet delightful posted:I had just put in an order for Mission Automotive Silicone Paste for doing new brake pads on my F-Type (if it matters?) and got back that they are out of stock, amazon showing low stock/long ship times for it also. I just kinda googled for that brand in the first place TBH, if I get 3M Silicone Paste from a local shop is that good/bad? Should I get something different? That 3M stuff doesn’t sound like it’s meant for brakes. Something like this should work for the caliper pins. I’m not sure if it’s necessary, but I use this on the brake pad backing plates. nitsuga fucked around with this message at 12:32 on Oct 9, 2020 |
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Oct 9, 2020 12:29
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tangy yet delightful posted:I had just put in an order for Mission Automotive Silicone Paste for doing new brake pads on my F-Type (if it matters?) and got back that they are out of stock, amazon showing low stock/long ship times for it also. I just kinda googled for that brand in the first place TBH, if I get 3M Silicone Paste from a local shop is that good/bad? Should I get something different? No. That's dielectric grease. Go to the parts store and buy literally any bottle that says "brake parts lubricant". This is not an application specific material unless you're working on a formula 1 car or something.
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Oct 9, 2020 16:51
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Got it thanks guys. Not sure how I managed to google into completely the wrong thing, glad it was out of stock now.
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Oct 9, 2020 17:30
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tangy yet delightful posted:Got it thanks guys. Not sure how I managed to google into completely the wrong thing, glad it was out of stock now. Tbf it does say for brake systems on the label, but yeah get something just for it.
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Oct 9, 2020 20:03
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Silicone paste is good for slide pins, but not the other parts of a brake setup,
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Oct 9, 2020 21:02
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99 Honda Accord just stopped running today while I was driving. I turned on the flashers, tried three times to restart, and after waiting a minute or so, another try got her started and running. No issues driving 8 miles home (I kept on surface streets just in case). I have an appt tomorrow at the mechanic, but the reply online is varied between spark plugs, a busted fuel gauge, alternator, etc. Is there any way to narrow it down?
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Oct 10, 2020 01:01
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Bad plugs don't make it up and quit all of the sudden without making the car run like rear end for a while first. They certainly don't magically start working again. Fuel gauge... Well you can probably remember when the last time you filled it up right? Is it plausible you ran out of gas due to a bad gauge? You drove it for 8 miles afterwards so there must have been some gas left. (A broken gauge doesn't make the car cut out it just makes you forget to fill up and run out) Bad alternator: Was the car doing weird electrical things before it cut out? (Dim lights, no fan, radio cutting out, power windows not working, etc.) Would you be able to crank the car if the battery had been run flat due to a bad alt? So just run through all these options in your mind like this and try to figure out if any of them makes sense given the circumstances. You just need to have the issue diagnosed properly. It could be anything, fuel pump issue, ignition switch, ECU issue, distributor/coils, bad ground, etc, etc. Any number of things. So you just need a proper diagnosis.
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Oct 10, 2020 01:23
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spankmeister posted:Bad plugs don't make it up and quit all of the sudden without making the car run like rear end for a while first. They certainly don't magically start working again. Filled up last week, maybe a quarter tank down? Nope, nothing weird for electric. Mechanic tomorrow can hopefully figure it out, I'm super leery of driving anywhere now.
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Oct 10, 2020 01:38
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May be the fuel pump / relay The pump unit can be replaced through a hatchway accessible through the trunk floor. Which is good, because the alternative is dropping the entire rear subframe to access the tank/top of the tank. Ask me how I know. PainterofCrap fucked around with this message at 01:58 on Oct 11, 2020 |
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Oct 10, 2020 04:01
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Cowslips Warren posted:99 Honda Accord just stopped running today while I was driving. I turned on the flashers, tried three times to restart, and after waiting a minute or so, another try got her started and running. No issues driving 8 miles home (I kept on surface streets just in case). It's almost certainly electrical, but that doesn't really tell you much since most of the stuff in the car is electrically run. That sort of problem is a classic symptom of a bad coil. In use it heats up, the circuit opens, and the car shuts down. After it cools, it contracts and makes contact again so the car will run. I think the 99 Accords were still using a central coil rather than coils on plugs like most cars now, so it's a good candidate. It could also be a bad ground somewhere, again opening a circuit when it gets hot and reconnecting when it cools off. That could be almost anywhere. Random electrical stuff like that can be a bitch to track down. Good luck.
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Oct 10, 2020 04:09
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Cowslips Warren posted:99 Honda Accord just stopped running today while I was driving. I turned on the flashers, tried three times to restart, and after waiting a minute or so, another try got her started and running. No issues driving 8 miles home (I kept on surface streets just in case). Hondas of that era are famous for two particular electrical issues that make them die in their tracks: Ignitor (inside the distributor, but you usually see the tach start fluttering randomly before it shits, car also sometimes surges a bit). Not applicable to the V6. Once it dies, it's usually dead. Main fuel relay (under the dash). Sometimes comes back to life once it either cools off (from not being driven) or heats up (sun). A good solid fist thump against the kick panel/underdash trim by the driver's door may or may not get it to restart, but that's just borrowing time. If the check engine light did NOT come on when it wouldn't restart, it's the relay - it controls power to both the fuel pump and engine computer. I'd say 80-90% of no-start/random dying issues on 80s-early 00s Hondas are the main fuel relay (pulling that percentage out of my rear end, but it's a very common issue, common enough that out of every Honda I've seen die out of nowhere or refuse to start, it's been the case for all but two). Your fuel gauge isn't going to randomly tell the car "hey, stop running". Your alternator would have caused the alternator light to come on, and you would have had TONS of warning (usually radio dies, then gauges die, then the car starts running like total poo poo before dying - won't restart without a jump). Spark plugs don't up and fail either. If these "replies online" are from your mechanic, you need to find a new shop. If they're from one of the various "oh hey we'll take your $50 and  diagnose your problem" sites, you wasted $100.
randomidiot fucked around with this message at 18:30 on Oct 10, 2020 |
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Oct 10, 2020 18:20
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today the maintenance light came on. whoo. fun times. Not Check Engine.
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Oct 10, 2020 19:53
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Cowslips Warren posted:today the maintenance light came on. whoo. fun times. Not Check Engine. If it's just the maintenance light then maybe you just need an oil change.
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Oct 10, 2020 20:34
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wesleywillis posted:If it's just the maintenance light then maybe you just need an oil change. It didn't come on yesterday at all when the car stopped. Drove around today for errands but only in areas of town where there was no traffic (early morning poo poo). Other than the light coming on, flashing three times, then going off, nothing new. Edit: got to mechanic, they try to turn it on, and she ain't starting. Awesome. Edit two: turns out it was the ignition switch. $500ish later and I hope this is good for a while! That included an oil change as well, I was pretty close to needing one anyways but it's always the labor that kills you in the pricing; all mechanics charge for a diagnostic check? no, this is not an online one, but for them to actually see why the maintenance needed light is on and you're having issues in general. Cowslips Warren fucked around with this message at 23:55 on Oct 10, 2020 |
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Oct 10, 2020 21:14
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Well I finally did it! I smashed something important while off-roading my 2000 Toyota Sienna CE FWD minivan. I first noticed it was injured while still on the trail. It was slowly bleeding some kind of yellow fluid, about 1 drop every couple minutes. At first I thought I has finally managed to knock the oil pan, perhaps just enough to tweak the gasket. I checked the level and it was about a quart low, which is not unexpected because it's due for a change in 500 miles. So I drove 220 miles home, stopping a couple times to check the oil level. All was fine until I got off the freeway and heard the power steering pump whine. gently caress. Did I just gently caress up a hose? Did I destroy the rack? I can't wait to find out! I figure it's probably not the pump, since I imagine it's not in a very vulnerable spot (correct me if I'm wrong here). Is it possible to damage power steering poo poo just from high forces, wheel impacts, etc? Or did I definitely smashed something on a rock? I guess this bumps up the priority of my custom skid plate idea from idle curiosity to something I should actually do. Also raises the question of whether it's sane to do thousands of dollars of work on 20 year old minivan that has a market value under $1,500.
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Oct 11, 2020 04:58
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50/50 you tweaked a line by impacting a rock with the rack, or a hose/seal just decided to pick that specific time to start leaking on its own.
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Oct 11, 2020 05:04
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Sometimes power steering systems will have a cooler of some sort. In my experience they're typically mounted fairly low, near the front of the car. You may have scraped it, or bumped it off a branch or rock. A 20 year old vehicle will probably have some fatigued, rusted, corroded or otherwise weakened metal lines and fittings. Even if it doesn't have a cooler per-se, you may still have bumped a line and caused a leak.
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Oct 11, 2020 05:09
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IOwnCalculus posted:50/50 you tweaked a line by impacting a rock with the rack, or a hose/seal just decided to pick that specific time to start leaking on its own. Both those sound relatively cheap to fix, which goes against my power steering instincts. Though I suppose if I had massively hosed the rack it would be bleeding a lot more fluid. Also it definitely wasn't coincidence that it started leaking today. I hit enough poo poo that I was checking for small leaks on the trail. Realistically, I should not have driven my minivan up Hogback Rd into Lassen National Forest. OTOH, it was pretty fun trip.
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Oct 11, 2020 05:10
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Cowslips Warren posted:all mechanics charge for a diagnostic check? no, this is not an online one, but for them to actually see why the maintenance needed light is on and you're having issues in general. Yes all mechanics charge a diagnostic fee. Usually it's a flat fee for say an hour of labor. It can vary wildly how long a diag takes, sometimes 5 minutes, sometimes several hours, or anything in between. Remember that you're paying an expert (well, you hope) whose spent years of their life building experience and training. That kind of knowledge isn't free nor should it be free. Also they have to invest in all kinds of special tools, diagnostic equipment, software, access to service information from manufacturers (expensive subscriptions), etc. If there are any shops that don't charge a diagnostic fee, they still charge you by having higher hourly rates and more markup on parts. Or they don't do diagnosis properly and just shotgun parts which ends up costing you even more. e: if it was just the service light being on because it needs an oil change then yeah you wouldn't really charge a diagnostic charge for that because it's trivial and you'd make your money on the oil change, but I presume in this case your diag charge is for the ignition switch issue. spankmeister fucked around with this message at 09:38 on Oct 11, 2020 |
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Oct 11, 2020 09:33
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It costs $0.05 to turn the screw, and $500 to know which screw to turn.
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Oct 11, 2020 10:16
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$1000 to turn it the right direction. Then more money to turn it to the right torque. And then another bunch of money to automatically detect that the screw is actually present and the right screw. wait.. what are we talking about?
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Oct 11, 2020 11:21
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Yeah, the dude gave me the $100 quote for the diag, then after an hour came back with ignition switch. I told him to do the oil change as well, I was close to needing it done. But now I'm paranoid because when I went to leave, the Maintenance Light was still on; the dude said the techs forgot to reset it, and did for me. Okay cool. Then I heard a click when I turned the steering wheel. A single sharp click, and it doesn't happen all the time. gently caress, I don't even know if it's happened before this switch was fixed because I have music on. Possible something got twisted or broke when they fixed this?
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Oct 11, 2020 15:23
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I've done a pump relay in a 2000 Accord. I forgot about the switch :/ My son & I replaced his in his '01 Accord. It involves removing the binnacle covers (between the steering wheel & the instrument cluster) and then a number of star bolts to decouple the ignition switch from the column assembly. It's possible that when the tech reinstalled the binnacle covers, that one was sightly misaligned, and that <pop> you heard was it re-aligning. The Maintenance light on these Hondas is basically Honda Service rattling their tin cup for alms. Can't recall the reset procedure off the top of my head, but it requires no tools.
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Oct 11, 2020 17:00
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