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It's also worth nothing btw that whether a certain thread will work has to do not only with the pitch, but with the steepness. If you use the standard (coarse) threads for a given diameter, you can usually print pretty good ones down to M6x1 or below. However, you can't just go okay, so I can print 1mm threads, great, and then try to make a 1mm pitch thread on a 70mm jam jar lid. The thread angle there will be much more shallow and you'll need thinner layers and a more precise printer to make it work well, if indeed it works at all. I saw someone posting in this thread that they were able to get the M58x0.75 thread used on camera lens filters, but I question whether that was actually a true thread or more of a jam-fit. Something to experiment with!
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Oct 4, 2020 20:15
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I'm lazy so I like to borrow threaded rod models from mcmaster-carr and cut them down to what I need.
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Oct 4, 2020 20:38
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I design with this in mind, but I'll also print my male threaded parts at 98-99% scale in X and Y (with the threads progressing in Z, so that's 100% scale), just to have a no-brainpower easy way to print threaded things, like this 90 degree box jig:
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Oct 4, 2020 21:15
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Who makes good quality nozzles? I know Micro-Swiss does, but I'm a bit leery of spending 15 bucks on a single nozzle when I'm just printing PLA. What should I look for in regular brass nozzles?
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Oct 4, 2020 22:02
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zharmad posted:So given that I don't have any CAD software right now, is there any reason I shouldn't pickup Corel iCAD from humble bundle for $30?
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Oct 4, 2020 22:13
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Rapulum_Dei posted:That’s for 6 months, check how must it automatically bills you for after that. That's 6 months of CorelDraw, everything else is permanent.
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Oct 4, 2020 23:01
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Doctor Zero posted:Ah you are right. I mean condensate. Regardless, I’ll not sure I’d use tap water, but the stuff the dehumidifier has doesn’t have any minerals and I get like a gallon free every day. I think you may be overthinking this part. You’re just going to be rinsing off models and maybe the build plate (I use damp paper towels followed by dry to wipe the plate). My rinsing container holds about a quart and I’ll go maybe a dozen prints before it gets even a little cloudy. Prints go in, get a swish and a light scrub with a soft brush to get it out of crevices, they come right out. It doesn’t have to be hyper pure and it doesn’t have to be in any great quantity.
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Oct 4, 2020 23:03
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Enola Gay-For-Pay posted:Who makes good quality nozzles? I know Micro-Swiss does, but I'm a bit leery of spending 15 bucks on a single nozzle when I'm just printing PLA. What should I look for in regular brass nozzles? Micro-Swiss, E3D, Slice Engineering, Raise 3D, probably some others. You can get away with multipacks of generic nozzles from Amazon, but you should really just get a brass E3D nozzle and not worry about it. They're $10ish or so.
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Oct 4, 2020 23:50
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csammis posted:I think you may be overthinking this part. You’re just going to be rinsing off models and maybe the build plate (I use damp paper towels followed by dry to wipe the plate). My rinsing container holds about a quart and I’ll go maybe a dozen prints before it gets even a little cloudy. Prints go in, get a swish and a light scrub with a soft brush to get it out of crevices, they come right out. It doesn’t have to be hyper pure and it doesn’t have to be in any great quantity. I could be! I’ve only been doing this for 48 hours! So the test prints on the Anycubic Photon Mono came out excellent, but those are boring, so here’s my first real print. It’s as good as resin minis if not better, because there are no mould lines. (The one on the left is primed) 
Doctor Zero fucked around with this message at 00:11 on Oct 5, 2020 |
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Oct 5, 2020 00:09
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Sagebrush posted:It's also worth nothing btw that whether a certain thread will work has to do not only with the pitch, but with the steepness. If you use the standard (coarse) threads for a given diameter, you can usually print pretty good ones down to M6x1 or below. However, you can't just go okay, so I can print 1mm threads, great, and then try to make a 1mm pitch thread on a 70mm jam jar lid. The thread angle there will be much more shallow and you'll need thinner layers and a more precise printer to make it work well, if indeed it works at all. I saw someone posting in this thread that they were able to get the M58x0.75 thread used on camera lens filters, but I question whether that was actually a true thread or more of a jam-fit. Something to experiment with! My experimental print gave good results. I am using the Fusion 360 thread feature, and by taking off 0.2mm on all angled faces (nut and bolt), I have it working now. All other combinations were unsuccessfull. The version with rounded over threads works a tiny bit better. Now I just have to decide wheter to make my screw cap have outer or inner threads.
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Oct 5, 2020 03:42
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Elagoo mars pro heading in. Anything weird I should know about? Cool poo poo to print? I had a printebot simple metal a year or so ago but have never touched resin printing. I already have the titanforge Patreon for starters
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Oct 5, 2020 03:53
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Sagebrush posted:I saw someone posting in this thread that they were able to get the M58x0.75 thread used on camera lens filters, but I question whether that was actually a true thread or more of a jam-fit.
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Oct 5, 2020 05:42
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What layer height did you print that at?
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Oct 5, 2020 07:00
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.1mm on my ender 5
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Oct 5, 2020 07:44
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Printing the test took on the elagoo mars pro at 0.05mm layer height. after that I was looking at doing some minis. Should I reduce down to 0.01mm?
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Oct 6, 2020 01:44
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Owlbear Camus posted:Anyone using Siyara resin? I got it because it was recommended for the Phenom but I'm finding it cures... gummy? Is that just temperature? I'm gonna try dicking around with different resins because this is definitely not working like what I was maybe naively hoping for: an upscaled version of my photon. I've only got experience with the Siraya Simple transparent resin, but from what I've seen after 2 minutes (which IIRC is their recommended cure time for that particular resin) in curing in the Anycubic Wash & Cure, it comes out pretty solid. They did have an Excel spreadsheet with all kinds of info on their site for the Simple resin, so if you're using a different one of their resins, maybe see if they have a similar spreadsheet for that.
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Oct 6, 2020 04:12
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w00tmonger posted:Printing the test took on the elagoo mars pro at 0.05mm layer height. after that I was looking at doing some minis. Should I reduce down to 0.01mm? Just an opinion, but I've never printed anything finer than 0.03 and even that wasn't really much better than 0.05. Just added a bunch of extra time to the process. Once you get a coat of primer on, what little you can see for layer lines usually disappears anyway. No harm in trying it of course, but unless you're going to be spending all your time examining your prints with a microscope, I think you'll find that 0.03-0.05 is plenty of resolution for really good quality.
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Oct 6, 2020 10:58
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I want to play with wood filament, any recommended brands or suppliers? I'm in the UK.
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Oct 6, 2020 12:32
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cakesmith handyman posted:I want to play with wood filament, any recommended brands or suppliers? I'm in the UK. My recommendation is "Don't", because the filler loves to clog hotends if your retraction is too long/aggressive and will play hell with wear/tear on your nozzles.
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Oct 6, 2020 13:56
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Acid Reflux posted:Just an opinion, but I've never printed anything finer than 0.03 and even that wasn't really much better than 0.05. Just added a bunch of extra time to the process. Once you get a coat of primer on, what little you can see for layer lines usually disappears anyway. No harm in trying it of course, but unless you're going to be spending all your time examining your prints with a microscope, I think you'll find that 0.03-0.05 is plenty of resolution for really good quality. went down to 0.025 and its great. did some googling and generally people seem to go that way for miniatures. worked great on the printer vs my first failure at 0.05 so Ill stick with that for now now I just need to find someone who's made some alt sculpts for infinity so I can have an updated marut
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Oct 6, 2020 15:36
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I replaced my nozzle today with an E3D hardened steel nozzle, and after re-doing my bed level, the initial layers go down fine, but every print I've run (probably 4 prints, just flow rate calibration cubes as I just wanted a simple shakedown test) fails about 3 or 4 layers in. The new layer just seems not to connect to the previous ones and the printer is then extruding into the air and wrapping the hot end in filament. WTF is going on?! All of the gcode I've used has been successfully printed previously. I can't think of anything which should be causing repeated failures like this?
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Oct 6, 2020 16:24
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I found when I switched to a steel nozzle I had to bump my normal temps by upwards of 10° in order to get proper extrusion again.
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Oct 6, 2020 16:29
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stevewm posted:I found when I switched to a steel nozzle I had to bump my normal temps by upwards of 10° in order to get proper extrusion again. Interesting. I’ll try that tomorrow, thanks. I feel like that’s actually a good fit for the way it was failing.
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Oct 6, 2020 16:36
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I'm interested to try a tungsten carbide nozzle for abrasives, it should combine hardness, temp resistance, and the "middle of the road" thermal conductivity of brass, but I haven't gotten around to trying one yet
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Oct 6, 2020 17:04
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stevewm posted:I found when I switched to a steel nozzle I had to bump my normal temps by upwards of 10° in order to get proper extrusion again. This was it, thanks. The failures were occurring right as the part cooling fan was kicking in, so the first few layers were obviously right on the threshold of too cold and then the fan would tip it over the edge.
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Oct 7, 2020 02:29
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One thing I like to do to roughly get the proper temp is manually turn the extruder. I've got a feel for how easy it should be to turn on my printer. If it's hard to turn, bump the temp up, wait for it to stabilize, and check again. This is how I realized the steel nozzle was much different. I've read that steel nozzles are less thermally conductive, so you need more heat to compensate. Another thing I noticed is my top speed is limited with a steel nozzle, no matter how high the temp. With steel I can't go much past 80mm/sec without extruder skips. With a brass nozzle 100mm/sec is no problem.
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Oct 7, 2020 04:53
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shovelbum posted:I'm interested to try a tungsten carbide nozzle for abrasives, it should combine hardness, temp resistance, and the "middle of the road" thermal conductivity of brass, but I haven't gotten around to trying one yet Didn't know this was a thing... I didn't know for some time that a nozzle would actually wear out, so it never occurred to me to check it. I had mothballed my printer for some time because I just couldn't get it to print decently and got fed up with it. I eventually discovered the problem was my .5mm brass nozzle was now in excess of 1mm after 5 years of printing. It was big enough I could push a straightened paper clip into the opening! The 3 rolls of CF filament I went through during that time likely didn't help.
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Oct 7, 2020 05:05
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cakesmith handyman posted:I want to play with wood filament, any recommended brands or suppliers? I'm in the UK. I used the Geeetech wood filament that currently seems to be out of stock at Amazon - it gives a nice effect but is quite finicky, to the point where the only pics I managed to get were of prints that had failed halfway through (the person I was printing it for was waiting so when I finally got one to work I just sent it straight to him):  The main problem is that it's physically quite weak, so you have to make sure to dial down the retraction and possibly the travel speed to reduce the stress on the filament through the drive. It also absolutely loves to clog the extruder, oddly more at higher temps than lower - make sure you properly clean the nozzle before and after use.
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Oct 7, 2020 08:45
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goddamnedtwisto posted:I used the Geeetech wood filament that currently seems to be out of stock at Amazon - it gives a nice effect but is quite finicky, to the point where the only pics I managed to get were of prints that had failed halfway through (the person I was printing it for was waiting so when I finally got one to work I just sent it straight to him): Geeetech is garbage. I couldn't get the color of Hatchbox filament I needed one week so I tried it since it was the same price. It was really incosistant, clogged constantly no matter how low I dropped the temperature, and anything that successfully printed was super brittle. Threw it in the trash after a couple of prints and ordered a 10 pack of Hatchbox filament from their website since everywhere was out of single rolls of gray. I am not the type of person who just throws potentially useful stuff away either. Regrettable fucked around with this message at 09:05 on Oct 7, 2020 |
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Oct 7, 2020 09:03
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The Sunlu wood filament is decent, the print temp is just a bit finicky. I have mine set around 205° and it works fine. I also use a brand new nozzle each time and don’t use anything smaller than 0.4 or it’ll clog. The Sunlu stuff has enough wood content that you can actually sand it afterward and it looks nice. Ignore the lovely layer lines on Totoro in this one, that was my fault in slicing. 
Big Mean Jerk fucked around with this message at 09:15 on Oct 7, 2020 |
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Oct 7, 2020 09:11
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Sagebrush posted:A well-calibrated FDM should have no trouble making threads down to M6x1.0, and potentially smaller. You need to use the proper geometry for the threadform and you need to leave an appropriate amount of clearance. On the other end of the spectrum behold a M196x6 thread and counterthread on the cover for an upcoming telescope project. Designed with Fusion 360, printed with the standard PLA profile on Prusa MK3s and works like charm. Printing threads is just so abolutely satifying...  
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Oct 7, 2020 14:03
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Is that just using the thread creator in Fusion 360 or did you make it yourself? I've found the ones I've tried have all been a bit too tight, so resorted to manually upscaling one part by 1% in the slicer to give a little bit of tolerance.
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Oct 7, 2020 14:43
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I used the thread creator, made a test print and then extruded one flank of the thread by -0.2mm. It has a little bit of slack now but screws in without any effort and tightens and untightens nicely.
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Oct 7, 2020 14:57
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Cool, do some NPT threads. 
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Oct 7, 2020 15:02
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 no Ask me how my company once tried to design NPT threads into a plastic housing (please don't). EvilBert fucked around with this message at 15:30 on Oct 7, 2020 |
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Oct 7, 2020 15:27
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EvilBert posted:On the other end of the spectrum behold a M196x6 thread and counterthread on the cover for an upcoming telescope project. Anyone have any tips for determining thread pitch more accurately? I can't tell which direction my 0.925mm pitch needs to go because 0.92 and 0.93 feel about the same, but 0.90 and 0.95 are definitely wrong. I got this close measuring all 5 turns of the external thread together and dividing by 4, but being accurate at that scale is impossible for my dumb old peepers.
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Oct 7, 2020 15:36
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CapnBry posted:Motherfuckers use a proprietary thread for their nozzles that's alllllmost M16x1 but closer to M16.25x0.925 get yourself a thread gauge and stick it in the threads and see what thread it is  If it's an American-designed product it's probably 28tpi or something, not a metric size, since American tools are set up to make US customary thread pitches. If it's a European-designed product it's probably German because they're the sort of people to use M16.5x0.925 because it's optimal
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Oct 7, 2020 16:27
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EvilBert posted:
Coward. 
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Oct 7, 2020 16:36
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Here's my running total for the new Anycubic Sliced in Chitubox: 2 print failures (out of 2) Sliced in PrusaSlicer: 0 print failures (out of 3) To be fair, I probably need to adjust the support settings in Chitubox, but without touching anything, the PrusaSlicer just works and Chitubox does not. ( I am using auto support as a starting point and then adding manually to any islands in both). At least I know how to clean the resin tub now!
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Oct 7, 2020 16:56
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Doctor Zero posted:PrusaSlicer just works hmmm!
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Oct 7, 2020 17:09
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