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I'm planning on redoing my kitchen floor with 6" x 36" plank tile. I've torn out the existing floor down to the subfloor. Every single thing I've read online basically says "uh, hire a professional for plank tile because your floor has to be way more flat than it is" and that you can only have 1/8" variance over 10'. So, I get if it's not level within a given 36" length but does it really need to be that flat over that length? I mean if it's a very even rise from one end to the other that ends up being 1/4" over 8' I can't see why it would matter. Again, assuming the rise is even throughout. Fwiw there's practically no lippage on the tiles and I plan on doing a 33% offset. Anyone have experience with this? I've only done square and 6" x 12" tile before and all the WARNING messages have me a bit on edge.
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Oct 9, 2020 19:58
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regulargonzalez posted:I'm planning on redoing my kitchen floor with 6" x 36" plank tile. I've torn out the existing floor down to the subfloor. Every single thing I've read online basically says "uh, hire a professional for plank tile because your floor has to be way more flat than it is" and that you can only have 1/8" variance over 10'. Flat!=level is the biggest thing to realize here. Your floor does not have to be level. With a 36” tile though, flat will make your life way easier. I’m assuming by subfloor you mean the plywood floor. You’re going to want to put hardibacker down on top of that. Here’s a link to my “tiling a kitchen floor” post I made last year. https://forums.somethingawful.com/showthread.php?threadid=2734807&userid=38284#post497799879 With a 33% running bond 6x36 should go perfectly but you’re again going to want to make sure the floor is reasonably flat, so no major bumps or anything. The easiest way of checking that is to get a straightedge and lay it on the floor. If there’s virtually nowhere where it is obviously screwed up you’ll be ok. If there is, depending on how bad, you might want to look into some floor patching. You don’t want self leveling if your floor is out of level you’ll want something to fix it. Our go-to is ardex am100. If your floor isn’t too bad and you use a reasonable joint (3/16 or so) you should be okay. Just ensure you’re checking for lippage as you set, and you’re going to want to have a nice heavy notch trowel 1/4x3/8 ish or so, so that you have room to smoosh tiles down if necessary, or pop them back up and get some more mortar under if necessary in certain spots. I know I didn’t answer all your questions so let me know what I missed. AFewBricksShy fucked around with this message at 21:56 on Oct 9, 2020 |
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Oct 9, 2020 20:18
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BRAKE FOR MOOSE posted:Almost everything in my new condo falls neatly into a "can obviously do this myself" or "really should hire someone" bin, except for this one, so I'm looking for advice about it. What exactly is "the firewall"? How is it constructed? Is is typical double 5/8" sheetrock on either side of 2x4s or 2x6s? Something else? Are the penetrations through BOTH pieces of drywall if it's the type of construction? If all you're looking at is patching a sheet of 5/8 drywall and you don't even need it to have a particularly great finish it's almost definitely something you can do yourself.
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Oct 9, 2020 22:14
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hi liter posted:Hi friends, I'm not a super DIY guy, but I've solved these problems myself for fairly cheap. There are probably more experienced guys in here, but this is how I would fix these problems: I'd go with painter's caulk for the first separation between wall and molding there. It's cheap, paintable after it dries, and readily available at most any hardware store. Assuming you have nothing in terms of equipment get a caulk gun and maybe some rags. Squeeze a bit out of the tube onto the crack, use a wet finger (use a glove to be safe) and smooth it out/press it in. Let it dry. Paint. For the middle one I'm guessing it's the quarter circle hole at the back there. I think for something small like that a drywall patch kit would be enough. That's likely going to have a piece of mesh, some tape and probably some spackle of some kind. You should be able to cut a piece of mesh to fit just over the hole, secure it in place and then go over it with the spackle. Try and smooth it out, let dry, sand to get it consistent with the wall. Paint. For the bottom one you should be able to find wood filler. There's a bunch of different brands, and slight variations in style, but most of them are basically glue and sawdust. I would recommend a putty knife and some sandpaper with this one, a few different grits, but probably nothing lower than a 200. Clean the area well, vacuum and mop, or just spot clean with soap, water and sponge. Basically get all the loose particles and hair up that you can. Spread the wood filler into the empty cavity and smooth it out with the putty knife, scraping up any excess. Let it dry completely. Sand it so it is level with the floor and not completely rough. It will take stain, but the flooring you have now is very light, so it might not be worth the effort to stain a tiny little strip. You could pick up a stain pen (probably near the wood putty or where other wood stain is kept) which is just a small dose of normal stain that you draw on with a marker. I wouldn't bother with any extra wax or sealer if you aren't doing the whole floor, but if you are doing the whole floor, don't ignore that section.
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Oct 9, 2020 22:37
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I need to frame out a ceiling on concrete and it had to have about 4" of clearance for insulation. I'd like to use metal framing. There's a bulkhead needed that will prevent me from just supporting it on the concrete walls, so I'm looking to screw essentially furring strips into the concrete ceiling. My plan is to use 1-5/8" tracks/studs to create mini-walls that drop the needed height, spaced out 16"-OC. My concern is this overkill? The space in question is about 9'x7'. Could I get away with just framing the outer box then running the furring strips across? This would literally just be holding up the drywall.
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Oct 10, 2020 00:39
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You may want to attach metal furring/hat channel to the ceiling, then metal studs perpendicular to those. That will get you metal joists while still giving enough spacing for insulation.
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Oct 10, 2020 01:14
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AFewBricksShy posted:Flat!=level is the biggest thing to realize here. That's great, thanks for this! What are your thoughts on leveling spacers? Like QEP Lash
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Oct 10, 2020 01:57
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regulargonzalez posted:That's great, thanks for this! What are your thoughts on leveling spacers? Like QEP Lash
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Oct 10, 2020 02:32
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CzarChasm posted:lots of clear recommendations Thanks!
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Oct 10, 2020 02:56
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Bioshuffle posted:I tried out the fire starter for my wood burning fireplace with a gas starter, but it looks like 2 out of the 3 slots are clogged up. I tried to scrape away at the build up somewhat, but it looks like it's.. rusted shut? The chimney sweep guy said it looked fine, but he said I would have to ask a plumbing person for more details since it was gas related. Do I need to replace the whole thing or can I just take a hacksaw and gently open the slots back up? The pipe extends beyond the brickwork, so I would have to hire someone to cut the pipe and rethread it.
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Oct 10, 2020 14:49
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kid sinister posted:You may want to attach metal furring/hat channel to the ceiling, then metal studs perpendicular to those. That will get you metal joists while still giving enough spacing for insulation. Thanks! I'd not considered this. The spacing would be perfect and the price nice but then I realized it means doubling the number of holes to drill into the concrete, since the earrings need to be attached on both sides.
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Oct 10, 2020 14:57
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GWBBQ posted:You have no way of knowing how rusted it is inside or where. Anything short of replacement is asking for surprises, and when they involve natural gas and fire (or worse no fire at first then lots of fire later) they're not a lot of fun. Have it replaced, and expect that you may have to have the brickwork pulled and repaired to have it done properly. I was quoted 200 to replace it, which isn't bad at all. Why would there be rust inside a fireplace? I'm confused by the whole ordeal.
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Oct 10, 2020 15:01
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Repeated heating/cooling cycles attract atmospheric moisture, and in spun or stamped thinner metals, will corrode fairly quickly. See: exhaust systems on any IC engine, and gas grills.
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Oct 10, 2020 15:41
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Bad chimney allows rain in?
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Oct 10, 2020 15:42
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Natural gas burning results in water and co2. Also burning is rapid oxidization.
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Oct 10, 2020 15:54
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Re: gas fireplace line: No steel in the world resists corrosion forever, you have to coat it or change material systems. Unless your fireplace is 30+ years old, though, it sounds likely that either misuse, lack of maintenance, or some other factor might have caused it to corrode more quickly/easily. Do you live near saltwater? My own question: I have a standard drywall framed attached garage with a door opener, and I’d like to install some shelving on the walls and probably hanging from the ceiling. I saw a kit of what was essentially angle bar stock and pallet rack metal shelving making two 4’x8’ shelves at Costco for $250 or so, but that seems like a lot of markup for some fairly common building materials. Are there any recommended project guides or DIY instructions for designing and building your own garage storage? I’m fine using either metal bar stock or wood for construction.
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Oct 10, 2020 16:58
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is doing a connection to a new gas range pretty straightforward? I have a gas range right now that I will be replacing. I ask because the city I live in literally charges a $350 permit fee if you have the installer do it. If I lived a few blocks away in a certain direction, it would be 0. https://www.youtube.com/watch?v=b8F9fFjWDI4
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Oct 10, 2020 18:05
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Lawnie posted:My own question: I have a standard drywall framed attached garage with a door opener, and I’d like to install some shelving on the walls and probably hanging from the ceiling. I saw a kit of what was essentially angle bar stock and pallet rack metal shelving making two 4’x8’ shelves at Costco for $250 or so, but that seems like a lot of markup for some fairly common building materials. Are there any recommended project guides or DIY instructions for designing and building your own garage storage? I’m fine using either metal bar stock or wood for construction. How much weight do you need this shelving to support? You can buy shelf brackets from the hardware store and then stick 1x12s on them; that's pretty simple and probably about as cheap as you're going to be able to manage. It's not ultra-heavy-duty though so I wouldn't e.g. try to climb on them.
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Oct 10, 2020 18:06
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Hello goons, about twenty minutes ago my oven began making a loud ticking noise and spontaneously trying to turn itself on. I think it is alive. Seriously though I've got some kind of Maytag gas stove in an old-rear end NYC apartment. Today it started making a constant clicking noise from somewhere in the, uh, top back bit (where the display screen and buttons live). This went on for about ten minutes, then stopped. The stove has since been occasionally, spontaneously activating the 'set timer' screen for the broiler. I figure this is some kind of electrical issue. I haven't tried anything yet (like resetting the breaker or even unplugging the stove and plugging it back in.) Just thought I'd check to see if this was a known issue.
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Oct 10, 2020 19:41
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TooMuchAbstraction posted:How much weight do you need this shelving to support? You can buy shelf brackets from the hardware store and then stick 1x12s on them; that's pretty simple and probably about as cheap as you're going to be able to manage. It's not ultra-heavy-duty though so I wouldn't e.g. try to climb on them. Probably 3-400 pounds absolute maximum.
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Oct 10, 2020 19:51
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Lawnie posted:Probably 3-400 pounds absolute maximum. Err towards the heavier-duty shelving brackets, and screw them into studs with at least 1.5" of screw shaft length gripping the stud, remembering to take into account the drywall thickness. The brackets should list how much weight they're rated for, if I recall correctly. So as long as your weight is evenly distributed across the length of the shelf instead of concentrated onto a single bracket, you should be able to figure out how many brackets you need and of what size, based on the length of the shelf and the max load you want to support. As for the shelf material, any real wood or plywood will be fine. Don't use particle board, MDF, or similar materials that have no grain.
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Oct 10, 2020 19:57
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General Battuta posted:Hello goons, about twenty minutes ago my oven began making a loud ticking noise and spontaneously trying to turn itself on. I think it is alive. You can try unplugging and replugging in 10 or so mins but sounds like it's at the end of it's life
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Oct 10, 2020 20:05
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TooMuchAbstraction posted:Err towards the heavier-duty shelving brackets, and screw them into studs with at least 1.5" of screw shaft length gripping the stud, remembering to take into account the drywall thickness. The brackets should list how much weight they're rated for, if I recall correctly. So as long as your weight is evenly distributed across the length of the shelf instead of concentrated onto a single bracket, you should be able to figure out how many brackets you need and of what size, based on the length of the shelf and the max load you want to support. Gotcha, thanks for the tips!
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Oct 10, 2020 20:43
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General Battuta posted:Hello goons, about twenty minutes ago my oven began making a loud ticking noise and spontaneously trying to turn itself on. I think it is alive. The clicking noise is probably a relay. It sounds like the control board is trying to flip on the broiler. Somehow I bet this is an issue where the smoothing capacitors in that board's power supply section are wearing out and the electronics are getting confused by the 60 Hz flicker from their power not getting smoothed out. If you took that board out, I bet that you could see if those capacitors are bulging and/or leaking. If you knew electronics or just can be trusted with a soldering iron, some solder wick and solder, I bet this would be an easy fix for less than $5 in capacitors plus shipping. However, if you're renting, then this is the landlord's problem.
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Oct 10, 2020 21:57
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My father's got an antique Italian chest of drawers. It's not an expensive antique but he loves it, and he's been working on the finish with 0000 steel wool and boiled linseed oil. He asked me to look online and see what could be used as a polish on top of that, but he doesn't want to use wax. Of course, everything I can find about antique wood says not to use oil on it, and to use a thin paste wax for polishing, so of course he'll ignore my advice in that regard. Does anyone have another suggestion that might be compatible with stubborn old man criteria?
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Oct 11, 2020 01:18
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actionjackson posted:is doing a connection to a new gas range pretty straightforward? I have a gas range right now that I will be replacing. It's very easy, but you really do not want to gently caress it up at all. Is the $350 permit fee for commercial applicants? Could you apply for the fee yourself and then have a contractor do the work? Where I am the permit to replace a gas range is $108 and I live in one of the most wealthy counties in the US.
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Oct 11, 2020 02:03
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General Battuta posted:Hello goons, about twenty minutes ago my oven began making a loud ticking noise and spontaneously trying to turn itself on. I think it is alive. Unplug it now. I had a claim involving a range that started up spontaneously & locked itself into cleaning mode within an hour of the homeowner leaving for work (restaurant chef). It was January or February in Philadelphia, and brutally cold; when he came home twelve hours later, it was over 90-degrees in the house and the range was radiating like an active volcano. There was a fair bit of smoke (which is how I got involved) because he had stored 3 or 4 Revereware pans in the oven and the handles just...evaporated. He called the fire department; they cut house power long enough to unplug it & shut off the gas. Gotta hand it to Maytag; the unit ran for twelve hours at 500-degrees plus, and contained the inferno. I had an engineer inspect it; he found a fault in the control panel. Which was a miraculous piece of probity, since the control head on the unit looked like a Salvador Dali sculpture.
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Oct 11, 2020 03:01
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glynnenstein posted:It's very easy, but you really do not want to gently caress it up at all. Is the $350 permit fee for commercial applicants? Could you apply for the fee yourself and then have a contractor do the work? Where I am the permit to replace a gas range is $108 and I live in one of the most wealthy counties in the US. no it's for residential, my city is known for stupid poo poo like this (Minneapolis)
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Oct 11, 2020 03:47
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Just a reminder to everyone, DIY secret santa registrations are open! Everyone is welcome to participate, and we're especially looking for ausgoons. https://forums.somethingawful.com/showthread.php?threadid=3941260
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Oct 11, 2020 06:20
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Rexxed posted:My father's got an antique Italian chest of drawers. It's not an expensive antique but he loves it, and he's been working on the finish with 0000 steel wool and boiled linseed oil. He asked me to look online and see what could be used as a polish on top of that, but he doesn't want to use wax. Of course, everything I can find about antique wood says not to use oil on it, and to use a thin paste wax for polishing, so of course he'll ignore my advice in that regard. Does anyone have another suggestion that might be compatible with stubborn old man criteria?
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Oct 11, 2020 13:45
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How important is the air gap unit when installing a dishwasher? I've seen everything from "absolutely mandatory or your dishes will be covered in sewage" to "eh, usually not really needed"
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Oct 11, 2020 18:47
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regulargonzalez posted:How important is the air gap unit when installing a dishwasher? I've seen everything from "absolutely mandatory or your dishes will be covered in sewage" to "eh, usually not really needed" I definitely benefited from mine because it kept dirty water from being backed up into the dishwasher. It was a pain in the rear end to replace and fix, but I'd do it again.
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Oct 11, 2020 18:59
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Air gaps didn't become code until 2016ish? You can have a functioning dishwasher without an air gap that empties into the sink. The back in the day installation method was to attach the dishwasher drainage line to the top of the cabinet, known as a high loop. You are basically making a trap so water from your sink drains will not fill up your dishwasher. 
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Oct 11, 2020 19:02
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When I put in my cheapy dishwasher I used the high loop method and it works fine. And by that I mean the dishes get washed and all the dirty water disappears.
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Oct 11, 2020 19:11
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mutata posted:When I put in my cheapy dishwasher I used the high loop method and it works fine. And by that I mean the dishes get washed and all the dirty water disappears. What you will notice when you don't have a high loop is that your dishwasher stinks, because water from your sink (particularly if you have it hooked to a garbage disposal) will drain back down that line into your dishwasher. Which then sits there full of part of the sludge you intended to put down the drain. And usually not enough to see it in the bottom, just eough to be nasty. Run a load of dishes and it goes away. Or almost goes away. Sometimes takes doing an empty load with some vinegar. In any case, that's sewage backflow from your sink and you need an air gap and/or to fix your high loop. Bosh dishwashers have a slick plastic thing that's part of the packaging that can be snapped out and mounted inside your cabinet to support the drain hose and make sure your high loop stays put.
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Oct 11, 2020 20:07
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I agree with you! I was saying I did the high loop and it's worked great. Unless you were just continuing the conversation generally, heh.
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Oct 11, 2020 20:17
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mutata posted:I agree with you! I was saying I did the high loop and it's worked great. Unless you were just continuing the conversation generally, heh. Yeah, adding some extra info for those who might be thinking "my dishwasher washes the dishes and drains just fine, but why does it stink?"
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Oct 11, 2020 20:18
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actionjackson posted:no it's for residential, my city is known for stupid poo poo like this (Minneapolis) It should be as easy as shutting a valve, disconnecting a flex pipe, and reconnecting it to the old range. Here's a decent video: https://youtu.be/b8F9fFjWDI4 Note: pipe sealant goes on piping threads only, not the flare fittings.
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Oct 11, 2020 20:36
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thanks, I found out that there's no permit fee for just capping the gas line, so I might just have them do that and put in an electric range. I would still need to have an electrician put in the 240V outlet but it's not that expensive, and I like the look of electric more (plus easier to clean the stovetop).
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Oct 11, 2020 20:48
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actionjackson posted:thanks, I found out that there's no permit fee for just capping the gas line, so I might just have them do that and put in an electric range. I would still need to have an electrician put in the 240V outlet but it's not that expensive, and I like the look of electric more (plus easier to clean the stovetop). If you actually cook, and have never had anything other than gas, you're going to hate it.
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Oct 11, 2020 21:37
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