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Hadlock posted:That one looks fine, just looks like a fancy box fan with an air filter I had a roomba and now have the Chinese knock off Roborock and it really is great for just daily upkeep. leftist heap posted:I really don't think you need to take such extreme measures. It defies belief that that ductwork entry point cannot be sealed with a bit of leg work. Absolutely. Like, I am not handy at all, and this seems simple enough. If the op doesn't want to follow hadlock or stormdrain's suggestions, it seems easy enough to just just extend the mesh if the rats are digging under it. If the OP doesn't want to dig down, just extend the mesh forward. Replacing the whole AC system because it is hard to seal that entry point feels like complete overkll.
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Oct 14, 2020 19:07
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leftist heap posted:I really don't think you need to take such extreme measures. It defies belief that that ductwork entry point cannot be sealed with a bit of leg work. Maybe. Some of the posts here have opened my eyes to the fact that the entry is sitting over open ground vs. concrete which I think is really the core of the issue. Since there's dirt under there, there is no hard surface to seal against. Any mesh, foam, or wool can just be dug under and thus compromised. I also think pouring concrete in there while the unit is still attached is impossible (correct?). Maybe someone else will post ideas, but right now it seems that at minimum I need to move that unit off the wall, so I can pour a concrete surface that meets the wall of the house, and then reposition the unit in an appropriate manner. joepinetree posted:If the op doesn't want to follow hadlock or stormdrain's suggestions, it seems easy enough to just just extend the mesh if the rats are digging under it. If the OP doesn't want to dig down, just extend the mesh forward. The mesh on the sides is a red herring. The rats can just go walk underneath the whole thing since it's just pavers with open dirt between them. I've actually previously pulled the mesh forward and held it down with bricks and stones on both sides of the unit, but the rodents can just dig holes around the edges because it's just dirt there. I'm now realizing that you can't seal against an uneven dirt surface. Anonymous Zebra fucked around with this message at 19:16 on Oct 14, 2020 |
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Oct 14, 2020 19:07
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Anonymous Zebra posted:Maybe. Some of the posts here have opened my eyes to the fact that the entry is sitting over open ground vs. concrete which I think is really the core of the issue. Since there's dirt under there, there is no hard surface to seal against. Any mesh, foam, or wool can just be dug under and thus compromised. I also think pouring concrete in there while the unit is still attached is impossible (correct?). Maybe someone else will post ideas, but right now it seems that at minimum I need to move that unit off the wall, so I can pour a concrete surface that meets the wall of the house, and then reposition the unit in an appropriate manner. They sell mesh in giant rolls. Put it all the way around your unit. If you want to be super handy with it, frame out a 2x4 structure and staple it to that so you can more easily move it when you need to do maintenance.
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Oct 14, 2020 19:27
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Anonymous Zebra posted:Maybe. Some of the posts here have opened my eyes to the fact that the entry is sitting over open ground vs. concrete which I think is really the core of the issue. Since there's dirt under there, there is no hard surface to seal against. Any mesh, foam, or wool can just be dug under and thus compromised. I also think pouring concrete in there while the unit is still attached is impossible (correct?). Maybe someone else will post ideas, but right now it seems that at minimum I need to move that unit off the wall, so I can pour a concrete surface that meets the wall of the house, and then reposition the unit in an appropriate manner. I mean, people are able to stop moles from digging through their yard. Unless we are dealing with pinky from pinky and the brain levels of rodents here, I don't see why it can't be done in your case even absent concrete.
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Oct 14, 2020 19:32
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What is condo ownership like in comparison to owning and maintaining an entire house? Easier, or about the same? I’ve considered working towards owning my own place, but I recognize that an entire house is hard to take care of, and I’m only one person, so maybe a condo would be a better fit for me. Not that I’m anywhere near even thinking about getting one.
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Oct 14, 2020 19:34
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Pollyanna posted:What is condo ownership like in comparison to owning and maintaining an entire house? Easier, or about the same? I’ve considered working towards owning my own place, but I recognize that an entire house is hard to take care of, and I’m only one person, so maybe a condo would be a better fit for me. Not that I’m anywhere near even thinking about getting one. One of the biggest differences will be that condos usually come attached with a HOA. Each HOA will differ as to how strict they are, but you will have way more restrictions about what you can and can't do as opposed to a home that's not part of a HOA.
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Oct 14, 2020 19:49
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H110Hawk posted:They sell mesh in giant rolls. Put it all the way around your unit. If you want to be super handy with it, frame out a 2x4 structure and staple it to that so you can more easily move it when you need to do maintenance. I think I'm just not picturing what's being suggested here. The mesh would be around the unit, but it would still be making contact with the ground, correct? I'm picturing myself pulling all the grasses up around the unit, leveling the dirt as best I can and plopping a mesh structure down around the whole unit, correct? Then, the bottom of this mesh is still against the dirt, so how do I stop them from just digging underneath the mesh again? Also, you can see that the geometry of the unit around the side that meets the wall is not exactly straight, how would I get mesh around that in a manner that can then be removed for maintenance. I'm not dumping on these ideas, just having trouble picturing them.
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Oct 14, 2020 19:53
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Anonymous Zebra posted:I think I'm just not picturing what's being suggested here. The mesh would be around the unit, but it would still be making contact with the ground, correct? I'm picturing myself pulling all the grasses up around the unit, leveling the dirt as best I can and plopping a mesh structure down around the whole unit, correct? Then, the bottom of this mesh is still against the dirt, so how do I stop them from just digging underneath the mesh again? Also, you can see that the geometry of the unit around the side that meets the wall is not exactly straight, how would I get mesh around that in a manner that can then be removed for maintenance. Look at the video I posted earlier on how to properly install mesh in the ground. Basically you bend it underground and have it run a foot or so away from the unit underground. This way if a rodent tries to dig under it within a foot of the unit, they are still stopped. The chances of them trying to dig under it from a distance are basically nill.
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Oct 14, 2020 19:58
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Pollyanna posted:What is condo ownership like in comparison to owning and maintaining an entire house? Easier, or about the same? I’ve considered working towards owning my own place, but I recognize that an entire house is hard to take care of, and I’m only one person, so maybe a condo would be a better fit for me. Not that I’m anywhere near even thinking about getting one. All the downsides of home ownership, wrapped up with all the downsides of living in an apartment. At a real basic level you'll just be responsible for maintaining the inside of your condo. Everything outside of the walls of your condo, shared amenities (gym room, pool) and services (landscaping, trash pickup), building maintenance outside your condo (roof, exterior paint) will be managed by the HOA who you will pay a monthly fee to.
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Oct 14, 2020 20:07
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Anonymous Zebra posted:Maybe. Some of the posts here have opened my eyes to the fact that the entry is sitting over open ground vs. concrete which I think is really the core of the issue. Since there's dirt under there, there is no hard surface to seal against. Any mesh, foam, or wool can just be dug under and thus compromised. I also think pouring concrete in there while the unit is still attached is impossible (correct?). Maybe someone else will post ideas, but right now it seems that at minimum I need to move that unit off the wall, so I can pour a concrete surface that meets the wall of the house, and then reposition the unit in an appropriate manner. What does the hole cut for the ductwork look like in its entirety? It's kind of hard to tell from the pictures. Is it just a rectangle in the exterior, or does it actually cut away the entire bottom of the wall? Like... ultimately the problem is where the rats are getting into the crawlspace, not how they're getting under the duct work. It's like worrying about rats getting under my deck but not fixing the gap in my wall/foundation through which they're getting in (a problem I have legit had!). If the wall is sealed correctly then who cares if a rat gets under the duct? That's my take at least. Like, what is going on under here:  Is that gap underneath the duct just a hole into the crawlspace??
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Oct 14, 2020 20:09
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My townhouse condo was the single best real estate experience I could've asked for and I miss it terribly. It was a ~1,300 SF two bedroom with garage built in 2007 by Renaissance. The development was so excessively high quality that it bankrupted them* $250 a month for insurance, landscaping exterior maintenance, and access to a heated pool & luxurious clubhouse. I feel like I pay at least $250 a month just getting an electrician or a plumber to fix some random poo poo in my new house (from the supposed golden era of 1981) *additional market factors contributed
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Oct 14, 2020 20:10
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SpartanIvy posted:Look at the video I posted earlier on how to properly install mesh in the ground. Basically you bend it underground and have it run a foot or so away from the unit underground. This way if a rodent tries to dig under it within a foot of the unit, they are still stopped. The chances of them trying to dig under it from a distance are basically nill. Yup, and that would wonderful for the parts of the unit that I would not need access to. - However, on the side with the old stone slab, I'll need to be able to open and close that latch once a month to replace our filter. I'd also need to destroy the concrete slab there to dig the trench down (not a big deal, but not something I'm going to do for only a temporary measure). - On the side facing away from my house, that panel needs to be removed to access the compressor coil and spray it down so it doesn't get clogged. I do this once every two months since both my neighbor and I weed whack the area and the clippings and other junk will clog it up if it's not sprayed down regularly. - On the third side by the water softener is the access panel the technicians use to access all the workings of the unit. That would need to be removed every six months when they come to inspect the unit. And, that's all three sides that I would need to pull the mesh back up to get access to the machine if the mesh was partially underground. Maybe peel back the mesh from the top? Or would I be screwing it in or foaming it to the machine? leftist heap posted:What does the hole cut for the ductwork look like in its entirety? It's kind of hard to tell from the pictures. Is it just a rectangle in the exterior, or does it actually cut away the entire bottom of the wall? Like... ultimately the problem is where the rats are getting into the crawlspace, not how they're getting under the duct work. It's like worrying about rats getting under my deck but not fixing the gap in my wall/foundation through which they're getting in (a problem I have legit had!). If the wall is sealed correctly then who cares if a rat gets under the duct? That's my take at least. The metal duct is literally the full height of my crawlspace from floor to top. There is theoretically a hole cut in the side of the house that the duct is passing through, which has a rubber seal or something around it, but underneath that is dirt and the rodents basically just dig right under the duct and into my crawlspace. I think they also may have chewed around the bottom side of that seal, but it's really hard to tell because that duct is literally making contact with the ground where it meets the wall. I have no idea why they are so committed to getting in there, but I noticed little pathways through the grass and dirt whenever I try to move the rocks/bricks around and seal that mesh better. Anonymous Zebra fucked around with this message at 20:19 on Oct 14, 2020 |
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Oct 14, 2020 20:13
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skipdogg posted:All the downsides of home ownership, wrapped up with all the downsides of living in an apartment. Bolder part happens in apartments too though, and it depends entirely on how responsive landlords are to requests (i.e. they usually don’t care). I just don’t want to have basic repairs held hostage by landlords who don’t put even a modicum of effort into taking care of their places. Other than that, I guess it’s a matter of renting a high quality apartment.
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Oct 14, 2020 20:49
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SpartanIvy posted:Look at the video I posted earlier on how to properly install mesh in the ground. Basically you bend it underground and have it run a foot or so away from the unit underground. This way if a rodent tries to dig under it within a foot of the unit, they are still stopped. The chances of them trying to dig under it from a distance are basically nill. This is how I finally thwarted groundhogs digging under my shed. Chicken wire (you need hardware cloth with smaller holes for rats/mice) that goes out about a foot and a half buried under a few inches of soil and is stapled to the shed wall. I'd try that first before I started messing with more permanent, nuclear options like pouring a bunch of concrete blobs everywhere.
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Oct 14, 2020 21:11
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Concrete ain't permanent. Especially watered down grout that you rod into place. Plenty tough for a rat but no match for a rotohammer.
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Oct 14, 2020 21:31
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Pollyanna posted:Bolder part happens in apartments too though, and it depends entirely on how responsive landlords are to requests (i.e. they usually don’t care). I just don’t want to have basic repairs held hostage by landlords who don’t put even a modicum of effort into taking care of their places. But then again you don’t have a landlord telling you that you’re not allowed to nail stuff onto the wall or whatever. Some friends of ours bought a condo in San Francisco (house is out of the question there) because they were tired of getting Ellis Act evicted from their apartment a year after they moved in. From my perspective, it’s a lot like living in an apartment building but you can’t get evicted for arbitrary reasons, and you have complete control over the interior of your unit. Seems reasonable for units in a shared building. On the other hand, my in-laws live in an attached townhouse in a development. We spent some time there recently and I honestly found it to be somewhat hellish. The HOA controls the exterior of the building except for a little backyard area, so you have very little control over a major aspect of the thing you ostensibly own. This particular development was full of very nice but very high maintenance landscaping and the sound of every manner of gasoline powered yard tool up to and including chainsaws was unrelenting. I was so happy to get back home and enjoy the blessed silence of my neighbors’ unkempt yards. I am definitely biased though. My dad always pushed the notion that ownership = control and if you buy something that’s bound by HOA covenants or in a building/on land you don’t wholly own, you’re not doing it right. But my dad can be crazy opinionated about that stuff. My in-laws seem to very much enjoy their townhouse with all its rules and fussy landscaping and our friends are quite happy in their city condo 
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Oct 14, 2020 21:32
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Queen Vic, I agree. Unrelated. After living in this house for two years I just noticed the tools and pins to load the spring hinges for the house to garage door to make sure it closes for fire safety. They were in a little bag nailed to the frame. Hidden in plain sight. So that's nice, should keep my cats from getting out when friends grab a beer.
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Oct 14, 2020 22:07
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I live in a condo in a high rise, and i love it. I travel too much and hate gardening too much for a house to make sense. And at least around me most rental properties are in developments with paper thin walls and flooring. My condo has concrete slabs between floors. The upstairs unit has been doing a massive remodel for a month and unless they are hammering down something on the floor i can barely hear it. I also have an amazing view that would probably cost millions by itself if i lived in one of the hot markets. That said, in the process of shopping for this one i saw several traps that must be horrible for the people who buy them. So if you're shopping for a condo, make sure you get not only the financials, but things like hoa minutes and reserve studies, try to visit it during busy times to see how noisy it is, and make sure you pay attention to things like the direction the unit faces. Unlike a house where you have access to all directions, a condo might never get direct sunlight, for example. Also keep in mind that hoa will likely be quite a bit more than what people in houses pay. My hoa fees are almost half of what i pay in mortgage.
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Oct 14, 2020 22:21
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Anyone have good questions to ask when interviewing roofers?
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Oct 14, 2020 23:36
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Tricky Ed posted:Anyone have good questions to ask when interviewing roofers? How many beers per day do you drink before 5 PM? After?
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Oct 14, 2020 23:43
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The high school bully now runs his own roofing company and is an ardent q-anon supporter I'd ask him his opinions on adrenachrome and see where that leads
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Oct 15, 2020 00:02
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FWIW we’re in a very high COL area and paying similar for ductless for a 3BR condo (top floor of a triple decker). It’s a really bad time to look for a deal from any contractor. Can’t tell you the efficacy yet though
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Oct 15, 2020 00:57
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Tricky Ed posted:Anyone have good questions to ask when interviewing roofers? If you need to replace plywood, how much per sheet?
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Oct 15, 2020 01:10
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What are the details of your guarantee? What is the length of time? Is it transferable to the next owners? What specific components of the work does it cover? Does it cover only the cost of materials, or also labor as well? Is the guarantee through your company or is it a manufacturer guarantee that will kick in even if your business ceases to exist? Who will be working on the roof? Am I talking to the roofer, or the salesperson for the company? Will YOU be on the roof mentioning all the details I just told you, or is it going to be a different project manager and his journeymen who I've never met before? What are your procedures for unexpected complications once the roof is removed (rotted plywood, or other unexpected costs)? Will you call me, automatically replace rotted/damaged materials, or do nothing without me giving consent ahead of time? What are the costs of the plywood or other potentially rotted components? What material are you using? What is the brand and manufacturer? Do you have their brochures? (You can look up the manufacturer online later) Anonymous Zebra fucked around with this message at 01:43 on Oct 15, 2020 |
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Oct 15, 2020 01:30
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Anonymous Zebra posted:I think I'm just not picturing what's being suggested here. The mesh would be around the unit, but it would still be making contact with the ground, correct? I'm picturing myself pulling all the grasses up around the unit, leveling the dirt as best I can and plopping a mesh structure down around the whole unit, correct? Then, the bottom of this mesh is still against the dirt, so how do I stop them from just digging underneath the mesh again? Also, you can see that the geometry of the unit around the side that meets the wall is not exactly straight, how would I get mesh around that in a manner that can then be removed for maintenance. Basically what everyone is suggesting, just at a much larger scale since you can't seem to get "in" to some of these places. You just need a defensible perimeter, it can go out away from your unit as far as you need it to go. If you have hard concrete somewhere that's great, they aren't going to dig under that. Anchor the mesh in place and move on. On the sides of your unit that aren't on a pad you can dig and install mesh there. You could probably buy a roll (first hit on amazon: https://smile.amazon.com/Openings-Hot-dipped-Galvanized-Hardware-Enclosure/dp/B01D82U4DE/ ), and some stuff to affix it to things (1x4 scrap wood, powder nailer if you hit concrete, staple gun, and some screws) and just go hog wild. Or hire someone to come out, pull the unit, put a proper pad down, fix up the crawl space access, and reinstall the unit is a 2-day job, only due to raw time lost to curing the concrete. They also make plastic pads it can sit on that are pre-made. In a few months even Riverside should be cool enough to go without AC for a few days while that happens.
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Oct 15, 2020 01:49
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Re: ratproofing, you should ask the chicken thread in Pet Island, they are very serious about it because rats will hide out in the coops and eat their sleeping chickens in the night.
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Oct 15, 2020 04:02
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Pollyanna posted:What is condo ownership like in comparison to owning and maintaining an entire house? Easier, or about the same? I’ve considered working towards owning my own place, but I recognize that an entire house is hard to take care of, and I’m only one person, so maybe a condo would be a better fit for me. Not that I’m anywhere near even thinking about getting one. It depends on the HOA and what your dues cover. Condos will pretty much always have a HOA of some sort because at bare minimum, you share walls and a roof. Many (I don't want to say "most" because I honestly don't know) condos will cover all external unit maintenance and grounds maintenance. Some will cover fire suppression systems, etc, in order to ensure that the damage to everyone else is minimized after you catch your unit on fire. Some will tell you to go gently caress yourself and that you should pay for everything. My experience (N=1, Condo N=1 also) is that it's easier than taking care of a house, but that you have fewer customization and personalization options than a SFH in a non-HOA neighborhood / development. The worst of both worlds is owning a SFH in a mixed-development HOA (condos and houses, both in HOA scope) because then you can't do poo poo AND you are responsible for your external structure. My condo is structurally covered by the HOA, up to the interior walls / finishes where they magically become mine. The slab and foundation, roof, plumbing from the road to sewer main, etc etc, is all their responsibility. The cracks in my exterior stucco are theirs to fix. It's a nice compromise for now, especially given the average home in my budget in this area was actually just a super-huge, disguised termite nest.
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Oct 15, 2020 04:42
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I'm a fan of my condo. it's an incredibly small 3-unit HOA though so there's no room for tyrants and if anyone really wants to do something they just have to be a good neighbor about it. It also means that all of the maintenance costs are split 3 ways and since the HOA is so small those costs are almost guaranteed to feel like they benefit me directly (rather than in big HOAs where you might be paying to replace an elevator you've never seen). Since it's super small though I guess we don't get any cost economy going so we pay what any SFH pays for everything. Doesn't seem like much of a loss though.
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Oct 15, 2020 05:45
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So the furnace and hot water heater are both 20 years old. Theoretically at the end of their theoretical life span. We’re in Denver so kind of a moderately cold winter The inspector said the furnace is short cycling and hasn’t been cleaned out in a few years. Do I let it ride or pull the trigger on a new one now? I just don’t know how long these things can typically keep chugging for
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Oct 15, 2020 16:05
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hobbez posted:So the furnace and hot water heater are both 20 years old. Theoretically at the end of their theoretical life span. We’re in Denver so kind of a moderately cold winter Do you have small kids? If so I would lean replacement. All adults or at least middle school aged? Up to you. Assume 3-5 days of cold if it fails.
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Oct 15, 2020 16:13
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H110Hawk posted:Do you have small kids? If so I would lean replacement. All adults or at least middle school aged? Up to you. Assume 3-5 days of cold if it fails. Get quotes now though because trying to find a qote while your poo poo is out sure sucks.
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Oct 15, 2020 16:18
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hobbez posted:So the furnace and hot water heater are both 20 years old. Theoretically at the end of their theoretical life span. We’re in Denver so kind of a moderately cold winter I don't know that I would roll the dice the same way that I would normally. It would suck to lose the furnace and a replacement is 2-4 weeks out. I think planning to replace the furnace now is a good idea, you'll have the option to meet with contractors on your terms and decide who's right for the job, what the right unit is, any additional work that needs or is best to happen now.
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Oct 15, 2020 16:19
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hobbez posted:So the furnace and hot water heater are both 20 years old. Theoretically at the end of their theoretical life span. We’re in Denver so kind of a moderately cold winter Can parts be replaced to fix the furnace? I would determine the cost of repairs vs replacement, factoring in the efficiency of this unit vs a new one, but keeping in mind that it usually takes a really long time to make up for a new furnace in efficiency gains.
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Oct 15, 2020 16:23
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hobbez posted:So the furnace and hot water heater are both 20 years old. Theoretically at the end of their theoretical life span. We’re in Denver so kind of a moderately cold winter Furnaces can last a really long time, and assuming the consumable parts are available, about the only thing that marks it for death is cracks/holes in the heat exchanger(s). You should get a trustworthy HVAC tech (good luck, but they are out there) to give it a full inspection and cleaning. You'll have a better idea of how likely it will last another few years. After that, you probably want to sign up for a maintenance plan that gives you priority support if it craps out on you. Barring the unsafe issue mentioned above, generally a good tech can get a furnace back up and running to cover you until you can replace it with a minimal (<$600) investment in parts. Water heater has to go, though.
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Oct 15, 2020 17:34
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B-Nasty posted:Furnaces can last a really long time, and assuming the consumable parts are available, about the only thing that marks it for death is cracks/holes in the heat exchanger(s). You should get a trustworthy HVAC tech (good luck, but they are out there) to give it a full inspection and cleaning. You'll have a better idea of how likely it will last another few years. I had my furnace and water heater checked out; both are pushing past thirty years with zero issues. I have a plan if they go but drat if I'm not baffled by their longevity.
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Oct 15, 2020 19:02
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My water heater is 22 years old and the boiler not quite as old. The boiler is only halfway through its projected lifespan, so we have another 15+ years before we have to think about replacing it. I’ve heard of some houses around here still running on prewar boilers, so my take is that boilers last a good long while. Water heater has lasted over twice as long as it’s supposed to, but I’m not replacing it until it is truly dead because my dad and I are in a contest to see whose 1990s water heater lasts longer.
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Oct 15, 2020 19:21
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Queen Victorian posted:Water heater has lasted over twice as long as it’s supposed to, but I’m not replacing it until it is truly dead because my dad and I are in a contest to see whose 1990s water heater lasts longer. Does the winner pay the loser's repair bill after all the water damage?
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Oct 15, 2020 19:49
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Sundae posted:It's a nice compromise for now, especially given the average home in my budget in this area was actually just a super-huge, disguised termite nest. Yeah, homes in the Greater Boston Area approach Bay Area prices while also being 100+ year old carpenter ant, lead paint, and asbestos traps. If I ever buy an SFH in my lifetime, it won’t be in Massachusetts.  I wonder what a good place to live would be. Pollyanna fucked around with this message at 20:38 on Oct 15, 2020 |
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Oct 15, 2020 20:29
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Repairing a furnace is one thing, but for ac/central the freon in a 20 year old unit is now something like $20+ a pound because it's illegal to make now, this has happened twice in my lifetime that I know of. Better for the ozone stuff is now mandated although there is a pool of grandfathered freon available for a high price.
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Oct 15, 2020 20:49
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Quaint Quail Quilt posted:Repairing a furnace is one thing, but for ac/central the freon in a 20 year old unit is now something like $20+ a pound because it's illegal to make now, this has happened twice in my lifetime that I know of. This is true, but it's more about price gouging by HVAC companies than actual availability. Even for 401a (which is still manufactured), nobody is going to recharge your system for $5/pound or whatever the retail price of the refrigerant is. R22 can still be found for, as you said, $20-30 pound, but you can expect the HVAC cartel to upcharge that by a factor of 4 or more, just because they can. If your system is leaking any significant amount of refrigerant, that's pretty much the end anyway.
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Oct 15, 2020 21:11
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