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sharkytm posted:Are you mixing modes? You can't have heat on one unit and fan/AC on another, they've got to be all on heat or off. AC and fan can coexist. I think that was it. My son put his to heat and I didn't realize it. I turned his off and the other one worked fine. Thanks!
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Oct 8, 2020 14:49
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Jerk McJerkface posted:I think that was it. My son put his to heat and I didn't realize it. I turned his off and the other one worked fine. Thanks! No problem. The Fuji's are decent units, albeit very tough to disassemble to clean.
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Oct 8, 2020 15:14
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Is there a recommended brand and/or place to purchase capacitors for HVAC systems? I just paid to have one replaced on one of my systems and I'm thinking I'm just going to buy a spare to keep on hand. I have 2 HVAC units, one uses a 35/5 and the other a 40/5. Carrier PN P291-3554RS and P291-4054RS. I see price differences from 5 bucks to 25 bucks with all sorts of brand names. I'm in the San Antonio area, and this last capacitor lasted 2 years, so I'm guessing the heat is going kill these things on a regular basis and I should just keep a spare on hand. Are there any other inexpensive parts I should keep on hand? I'm not going to keep a fan motor or anything on the shelf, but I can easily handle a capacitor, relay or a contactor
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Oct 8, 2020 21:26
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skipdogg posted:Is there a recommended brand and/or place to purchase capacitors for HVAC systems? I just paid to have one replaced on one of my systems and I'm thinking I'm just going to buy a spare to keep on hand. I have 2 HVAC units, one uses a 35/5 and the other a 40/5. Carrier PN P291-3554RS and P291-4054RS. Find out the real specs, not just the Carrier PN. Voltage rating, capacitance (dual), and can diameter/length. Buy name-brand motor start caps with high temp ratings. Chances are that Carrier is slapping their name on the cheapest thing they can find. I think GE still makes some, along with Mallory, Cornell Dublier, etc. If you can get one that's US-made, it'll probably be a little better on life, and they're not that much more money than Capzon or whatever cut-rate Chinese MFR is on Amazon. ::edit:: looks like GE Genteq is an option. There are generics, but I'd avoid them. One is 35/5, the other is 40/5. If they're the same size, you could probably get away with just keeping a spare 40/5 around. They're +/-6% anyhow. sharkytm fucked around with this message at 22:57 on Oct 8, 2020 |
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Oct 8, 2020 22:47
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The drain (white PVC) on this AC unit seems to have been done badly and it drains into a hole in the floor which is now overflowing.   This is an old building with lots of weird abandoned plumbing and I guess the AC installers figured that was an actual drain to the sewer, but I have no idea if the drain is actually connected to anything or just blocked. It seems like it would be easier/better to just drill a hole in the wall of the building (to the left in the pic of the unit) and run the drain straight to the exterior. Is there any reason not to do that? Can I go down to 1/2" PVC instead of 3/4"? The wall is (I think) concrete block with brick veneer and I'd rather not drill a big 1.25" hole through it if I don't have to. 1" SDS bits seem to be the biggest I can find locally in any case.
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Oct 9, 2020 18:10
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No, it needs to stay as 3/4. You also need a trap as discussed at length upthread.
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Oct 9, 2020 18:38
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Just a reminder to everyone, DIY secret santa registrations are open! Everyone is welcome to participate, and we're especially looking for ausgoons. https://forums.somethingawful.com/showthread.php?threadid=3941260
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Oct 11, 2020 06:21
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If someone was to take a 3/16" fiberglass tape fishing rod and punch it in one side of soft ducting and out the other side and upon realizing their error removed the rod and patched the two exterior holes with HVAC foil tape, would this be an ok fix for a duct running to a single floor vent? Or would the entire house burn down as a result? (or something in between) asking for a friend me  Something like this duct: 
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Oct 13, 2020 17:42
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You're probably fine but you might see some insulation or other fragments blow out of the register for a little bit.
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Oct 13, 2020 18:29
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My new AC system seems to have a 6.5/8.5 minute duty cycle, is this normal? When it cools off outside the on time stretches a few minutes more. I'd prefer it cool longer and stay off longer, I read the thermostat manual and can't find any settings that seem to control that. New house, new single stage ac, Lennox m30i thermostat.
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Oct 14, 2020 21:03
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Aquila posted:My new AC system seems to have a 6.5/8.5 minute duty cycle, is this normal? When it cools off outside the on time stretches a few minutes more. I'd prefer it cool longer and stay off longer, I read the thermostat manual and can't find any settings that seem to control that. New house, new single stage ac, Lennox m30i thermostat. The two settings that jumped out at me as possibly affecting this are the Feels Like setting, since they note they control off of that (and outside temp affects it) and the Fan Circulate time. I would try the Feels Like setting first since I suspect it will have more of an effect than anything else. Dunno if anyone else has any better ideas.
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Oct 14, 2020 21:44
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Hello DIYers! We have a new forum/mod feedback thread and would love to hear your thoughts! https://forums.somethingawful.com/showthread.php?threadid=3944213 Get ready to read this message 15 more times in every thread you read!
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Oct 16, 2020 01:29
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Explosionface posted:The two settings that jumped out at me as possibly affecting this are the Feels Like setting, since they note they control off of that (and outside temp affects it) and the Fan Circulate time. I would try the Feels Like setting first since I suspect it will have more of an effect than anything else. Dunno if anyone else has any better ideas. Thanks, I think "Feels Like" requires the outside temperature sensor, which I don't have. I will try upping the fan circulate time.
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Oct 16, 2020 18:30
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How do old-style thermostats work? I have one of these Honeywell ones:  And even though I set it to 70 and it was heating for a bit, it turned off once the temperature read about 64~65 (it's heated up a bit to 66 since then). The thermostat itself does the clicky-thing at about 70 anyway, so does that mean the bottom reading is incorrect, or does that mean the thermostat responds 4 degrees lower than the upper reading? I want to keep the room around 70 degrees cuz my hands are totally loving freezing right now so what the gently caress. Should I actually set the temperature to about 75 or so? Should I maybe replace this with a different kind of thermostat?
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Oct 18, 2020 18:57
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Mercury and a bimetallic spring. You adjust the angle or preload and as the temperature changes it tips a ampule of mercury causing it to short two wires and turn on your hvac.
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Oct 18, 2020 19:04
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That Tstat may not be level. How to level and adjust a round mechanical tstat.
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Oct 18, 2020 19:30
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It may also have an anticipator, which is a small heating element inside the tstat to anticipate the extra heat that will come from your system after it switches off to keep you from over-shooting your target temperature. Sometimes it's adjustable. e: The adjustment is explained in the link in the post above.
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Oct 18, 2020 19:43
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Pollyanna posted:How do old-style thermostats work? If you don't know how a thermostat controls a central heat/air system in general that part is at 2:31. The part specifically about basic analog thermostats starts at 4:41.
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Oct 19, 2020 16:17
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We have a heat pump / AC combined system. I recently upgraded the MERV rating of our filter due to wildfire smoke and I've heard that some systems can't handle the resistance of the higher-rated filters. How do I tell the max MERV I can put into my system? Related, the filter is installed horizontally into the one big return in the hallway ceiling. When the system runs, you can kinda hear it suck up against the ductwork and flex a little bit - I imagine that's good, it means it's sealing. 30 seconds or so after the system stops, you hear it sorta relax and un-crinkle, and then fall down a few millimeters, and it makes a kinda annoying clang against the cover grate. Is this a common problem (more of an annoyance really), and what's the best way to fix it? Just stick some weather stripping tape beneath it so that it's held in place more snugly, or something?
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Oct 20, 2020 20:07
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alnilam posted:We have a heat pump / AC combined system. I recently upgraded the MERV rating of our filter due to wildfire smoke and I've heard that some systems can't handle the resistance of the higher-rated filters. How do I tell the max MERV I can put into my system? It depends on a number of things, the most important of which is the size of the filter. A MERV-13, 1 inch filter is going to be way more restrictive than the same rating in a 5 inch filter. The only good way to know the answer to this is to take static pressure readings using a manometer. Blowers are designed for a specific max total external static pressure (usually not to exceed 0.5-0.7" WC.) The pressure drop of the filter adds to this number, along with your ductwork and coil resistance. If you exceed what is recommended, it can lead to all kinds of problems and damage your equipment. The short answer is to use the least restrictive filter you can. If you need air filtration, that is a separate concern, and you should look into standalone filtration units.
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Oct 20, 2020 21:14
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How do home humidification systems work? Are they integrated/connected with the ac/furnace etc. or is it a standalone thing? I checked out a this old house video and it looks like you need the ac/furnace, water heater, and drain, but it also involves changing the ductwork. actionjackson fucked around with this message at 18:05 on Oct 22, 2020 |
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Oct 22, 2020 18:01
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actionjackson posted:How do home humidification systems work? Are they integrated/connected with the ac/furnace etc. or is it a standalone thing? It can be either, but common evaporative models mount on the return plenum (ductwork) and also connect into the supply plenum/trunk. Some warm air from the supply is bypassed and flows through a pad that is kept wet to pick up humidity. This more-humid air then passes back through the return. There are also steam based units that just introduce water vapor directly into the supply ducts by boiling water. These are generally considered better than the bypass evap models, but can be really expensive to run, as you're basically boiling water all the time.
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Oct 22, 2020 20:02
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cool thanks. edit: someone from my HVAC company says it usually isn't done in newer condos like mine because you end up getting condensation on windows due to the good insulation - that is more commonly done in older, detached homes. actionjackson fucked around with this message at 21:35 on Oct 22, 2020 |
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Oct 22, 2020 20:50
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Okay, so I think this is the right place to ask this question. I apologize for not reading all 45 pages of this thread to see if this has been discussed already. This is a continuation of a series of posts I made over in the Home Owner's thread, so some of you likely already gave me some advice, but I wanted to go into more detail here. Before I start, I want to say that there are MULTIPLE problems here beyond just an HVAC question, all of which I'm trying to deal with, but I wanted to mostly focus on HVAC advice here. So, as I mentioned in the Home Owner's thread, I'm having a rodent problem and it is likely the fault of (and is also compromising) my HVAC set-up. The short summary is that rats are entering my crawlspace (likely where the HVAC unit meets the outside wall) and are then chewing through my ducts (in the crawlspace) to enter my vents and generally just walk around the inside of my ducts making noise and poking more holes. This appears to be a seasonal issue as last year we thought we had gotten rid of them, hired someone to rodent-proof the house, repaired the holes, and moved on on in life, but they have re-appeared. I'm not here for advice on rodent control, I'm addressing that problem, I'm here for comments on how my HVAC is set-up and what some solutions are. I will now post some pictures from my other post. If you were giving me advice in the other thread, please hold off and let some new eyes give their opinions. Enjoy. Anonymous Zebra posted:Okay, finally got some time on the computer. I took a few pictures to show what it looks like and I'll try to explain what assorted people have told me as they've checked this out. So essentially, the soft metal ducts in my crawlspace are easily chewed into, and at this point likely have some amount of rodent poop in them. I'm honestly afraid to turn on our system, and it's going to get cold soon (we live SoCal, so not THAT cold). The company that does my HVAC maintenance (but not the ones that installed this system) has told me that the best solution is a ductless system. That way they could just seal the opening in the side of my house up, seal up the ducts and then block off the vents in the home. This would allow me to better rat-proof the crawlspace, and would forever prevent repeat intrusions by rodents into my ducts. They also gave me a quote for "Replace All Exisitng Duct with Reflective Barrier Ducting - per system", which I was told would be a slightly tougher material to chew into, but the technician said that rats will chew through just about anything they could put under there. At minimum I likely need to replace all the ducts just because there is God knows what festering inside them at this point. A brief rundown of my home. It was built in the 1920's and has a very low clearance crawlspace, and an almost no clearance attic. It was obviously not built when central air existed, and the ducts are in the crawlspace and connect to vents in our floor (all next to windows LOL). The crawlspace is so low that the ducts essentially touch the soil despite being well attached to the ceiling of the crawlspace. Many of the other houses in the neighborhood have their AC units on the roof and going into the attic, but I've been told this will be impossible with how small my attic is. The home is a somewhat small 2 bathroom, 3 bedroom home, single-story with a total of 9 floor vents through the whole house. What I want to know is three-fold: 1) Are "duct-less" systems something that are meant to heat and cool a whole residential property? I've always seen them mentioned as replacements for window units, or for small structures, but never a whole residence. Please teach me about these things, or point me to a good resource on learning about them. 2) How hosed is that HVAC unit installation? The Home Owner's thread gave me their opinion, but I want to get as many eyes on it as possible. 3) What solution would you suggest for this issue? "Rodent-proof your house better" is a no-poo poo answer and I'm trying to, but that doesn't solve the holes in my ductwork or the fact that this keeps happening over and over. Thank you for any advice you can give!
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Oct 25, 2020 10:25
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Oh man, screw that. Also screw whatever rat bastard built a house with an inaccessible crawlspace. Seems like a zoneable split ductless heat pump system would work awesome for SoCal.
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Oct 25, 2020 16:18
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Anonymous Zebra posted:
The main common issues with mini-splits are -Wall units in each room that aren't very attractive. They do make in-ceiling cassettes that look basically like a vent, but with your lack of attic access may not be an option. -Condensate pump on each interior unit, with a line run outside. These are an ever-present opportunity for failure and leaks. The other option is mounting the unit on an exterior wall, with the drain popping straight out, which may be what they do because: -In your case, lack of attic access may mean opening interior walls to run the refrigerant lines, or running everything on the exterior of the structure which you may not want. Basically, you need details from the contractor about exactly where and how they're going to install this new equipment. If it were possible to reinstall the existing ductwork in such a way that it doesn't cut the crawlspace in half, I'd suggest to go that route. The unit would have to be reinstalled on a gravel bed or pavers or something, with everything fully sealed. Also the filter could be relocated inside to your return grill(s).
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Oct 25, 2020 17:56
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Anonymous Zebra posted:So, as I mentioned in the Home Owner's thread, I'm having a rodent problem and it is likely the fault of (and is also compromising) my HVAC set-up. The short summary is that rats are entering my crawlspace (likely where the HVAC unit meets the outside wall) and are then chewing through my ducts (in the crawlspace) to enter my vents and generally just walk around the inside of my ducts making noise and poking more holes. For those who didn't read this in the other thread: - this poster is getting a bunch of suggestions from contractors, none of which has been good advice or relayed in the thread in meaningful trade terminology/descriptions. Each contractor sees something their trade does as the solution. - This is a package unit which was dropped on the dirt next to his house by one drunk apprentice while the other meth head apprentice made a hole through the side of the house with the a claw hammer. (seriously: oversize chewed open hole, unit is literally sitting on the dirt. There is no pad. The whole thing is very much unworkmanlike.) - This poster seems to be convinced that there is something wrong with the size our output of this unit based on something someone who is trying to sell mini splits told them.
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Oct 25, 2020 19:02
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angryrobots posted:The main common issues with mini-splits are You forgot servicing and parts availability. Most of the conventional split systems have ubiquitous/universal parts, and are pretty dead simple to work on. They also have actual air filters (not a lame screen), so the coils don't get as dirty. Cleaning a mini's coils is a messy annoying job. Mini splits are awesome for supplemental heat/cooling (problem areas) or for old homes without ductwork, but there's no way I'd not use a central system for a house that already has ducts run.
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Oct 25, 2020 19:11
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Motronic. I appreciate the advice both you and others gave in the other thread, however you are both exagerrating and misrepresenting things I said in that thread, and I also specifically wanted different eyes to look at the problem before you went and shared your opinion. So I'm going to quickly clarify the points you just made so that things don't get off track here.Motronic posted:- this poster is getting a bunch of suggestions from contractors, none of which has been good advice or relayed in the thread in meaningful trade terminology/descriptions. Each contractor sees something their trade does as the solution. The contractors you mention here are 1) a pest control company that has looked through my home and found it to be rat-proofed except for this one location, which is very difficult to rat proof due to how the unit was installed, and 2) my HVAC company which suggested ductless among several different solutions. Motronic posted:- This is a package unit which was dropped on the dirt next to his house by one drunk apprentice while the other meth head apprentice made a hole through the side of the house with the a claw hammer. (seriously: oversize chewed open hole, unit is literally sitting on the dirt. There is no pad. The whole thing is very much unworkmanlike.) Here is where you are being inaccurate again. This unit was installed before I moved in, so neither you or I know the specifics of how it was installed. But as I said in the other thread, permits were submitted and approved with the city for this install. The company that is listed as doing the install in reputable within the community and does not appear to be some fake unlicensed scam place (although I have never personally used them). As I also said in the other thread, I have examined the HVAC units of several of my neighbors and they are set-up the same way (or are on the roof of the homes). I do not know the specific code regulations of Riverside when it comes to HVAC installs, but this install apparently was to code enough. I agree that the manner of installation is the cause of my rodent problem, but there is no evidence that this install is out of the ordinary for the homes in my area. Motronic posted:- This poster seems to be convinced that there is something wrong with the size our output of this unit based on something someone who is trying to sell mini splits told them. Now you are super mis-representing what I said in the other thread, and leaving out key details. The company suggesting the ductless system has been doing regular 6-month maintenance on my HVAC unit since I moved in over two years ago, and has never before this time suggested a ductless system or any other kind of upgrade. The original reason I hired them was because during my first winter here the blower motor on the unit failed and stopped blowing heat into our home. The technician who came that time (and also the owner of the company) told us that the blower motor failed because the unit was oversized for the duct size. He guessed that the previous company had managed to upsale the previous owner into getting a bigger unit than she needed, and that this was ultimately going to lead to issues (such as the blower motor failing so early that it was still under warranty). In the other thread I said that this information, on top of there likely being poo poo in my ducts, is enough of an impetus to make major changes to my HVAC set-up if people thought there might be a better solution than what I have. This company is used both by people I know and has a perfect record on every review site they are on. Even after being hired to patch the holes in my ducts last year, they did not suggest a ductless system. You seem to be obsessed with thinking that I'm talking to a ductless system installer despite me telling you over and over that these people only suggested that solution when I asked specifically about a way to avoid rats from sneaking in and chewing brand new holes on new ductwork. In any case, I hope that clears up some of your points. Thank you so far for the people that have commented on mini-splits. Anonymous Zebra fucked around with this message at 20:10 on Oct 25, 2020 |
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Oct 25, 2020 20:08
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B-Nasty posted:You forgot servicing and parts availability. Most of the conventional split systems have ubiquitous/universal parts, and are pretty dead simple to work on. They also have actual air filters (not a lame screen), so the coils don't get as dirty. Cleaning a mini's coils is a messy annoying job. I completely agree. This forum overall seems to be very pro mini split, so I was trying to not touch the poop.
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Oct 25, 2020 20:25
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angryrobots posted:I completely agree. This forum overall seems to be very pro mini split, so I was trying to not touch the poop. Oh please be very honest with me. I need to see all the poop so I can try making an informed decision.
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Oct 25, 2020 20:32
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Anonymous Zebra posted:Oh please be very honest with me. I need to see all the poop so I can try making an informed decision. Minisplits are awesome but I wouldn't install one in a house built for ducting. The hard part is getting the ducts or lines places - whichever one your house has is what you should stick with. For similar amounts of money r&r your current system and ducts properly instead of introducing a dozen more maintenance items and losing your air filter.
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Oct 25, 2020 20:41
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H110Hawk posted:Minisplits are awesome but I wouldn't install one in a house built for ducting. The hard part is getting the ducts or lines places - whichever one your house has is what you should stick with. I wouldn't necessarily say the house was built for ducting, as it was built well before the 1970's when central air began to be used, but I'll keep that in mind. Is there a better material than the super flexible ducting that I could use? I'm just afraid of getting all this ducting replaced only for another rodent to sneak in and destroy it again.
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Oct 25, 2020 20:45
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Rigid metal ductwork would be pretty well impervious to rodents. They could strip the insulation but wouldn't be able to get in it. An HVAC contractor that has their own sheet metal shop and can make custom size ductwork and transitions is probably what you need. Around here that would mean finding a contractor that also does commercial work. angryrobots fucked around with this message at 21:11 on Oct 25, 2020 |
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Oct 25, 2020 21:09
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H110Hawk posted:Minisplits are awesome but I wouldn't install one in a house built for ducting. The hard part is getting the ducts or lines places - whichever one your house has is what you should stick with. I'd normally agree, but that lack of crawlspace access makes replacing ducts a tough sell. I decided against minisplits on my own house because they're ugly, and the central filtering is very attractive. Anonymous Zebra posted:I wouldn't necessarily say the house was built for ducting, as it was built well before the 1970's when central air began to be used, but I'll keep that in mind. Is there a better material than the super flexible ducting that I could use? I'm just afraid of getting all this ducting replaced only for another rodent to sneak in and destroy it again. Another option is to have your company disconnect and move the HVAC unit, then have a General Contractor come in and pour a slab that abuts your footer, and properly seal the opening for the ducts while the unit's removed. Then do your duct repair, while the ducts are out have the exterminator come in and check everything out. Then put it all back together again. You could specifically request sheet metal ductwork from your HVAC guys, but it's not cheap. angryrobots posted:The main common issues with mini-splits are It sounds like OP's contractor's said it was too small for a conventional air handler, maybe the in-ceiling cassettes could still fit, or at least they could run the refrigerant lines through there.
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Oct 25, 2020 21:18
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I realize there are a few more details I can share about the house and what I've been told thus far. The house, like others in the area, was built as a two-bed one bath bungalow in the 1920's and has been renovated and added on over the last century. The crawlspace is contiguous across the whole home, but the new additions (so part of the kitchen, added bedrooms) have no attic access. I also should note that while I say space is tight in both areas, it's still possible to move through them, just not really convenient or fun. Currently the crawlspace is made tight partly BECAUSE of the ducts basically cutting it into different sections. We have 7 entrances into our crawlspace, so contractors are able to access all areas, but cannot access the whole thing at once since the ducts are blocking movement. The attic is also very tight, and not helped by the insulation which takes up some vertical space. The main reason that plumbing and ducts would not work up there is mostly because not all rooms have attic space, not necessarily because it's just too small for work.Elviscat posted:It sounds like OP's contractor's said it was too small for a conventional air handler, maybe the in-ceiling cassettes could still fit, or at least they could run the refrigerant lines through there. My limited knowledge of the terminology is hurting me here, so I'm not sure if I know the answer to this. When I look at pictures of ductless mini-splits online I see that there are lines going from the outside unit into the indoor portion of the unit. When I asked how these lines would reach indoor units on the other side of the house from the outdoor unit, the HVAC technician said they would run them through the crawlspace. angryrobots posted:Basically, you need details from the contractor about exactly where and how they're going to install this new equipment. If it were possible to reinstall the existing ductwork in such a way that it doesn't cut the crawlspace in half, I'd suggest to go that route. The unit would have to be reinstalled on a gravel bed or pavers or something, with everything fully sealed. Also the filter could be relocated inside to your return grill(s). I actually asked about having the filter installed into the return grill about a year ago, because it was annoying to have that outside on the unit. I was told this was impossible because the return grill is positioned between two floor joists and doing so would require cutting into the joists...at least I think it was something like that. I know that the technician said that there was some kind of structural issue with putting it there. Anonymous Zebra fucked around with this message at 21:48 on Oct 25, 2020 |
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Oct 25, 2020 21:44
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Elviscat posted:Another option is to have your company disconnect and move the HVAC unit, then have a General Contractor come in and pour a slab that abuts your footer, and properly seal the opening for the ducts while the unit's removed. Then do your duct repair, while the ducts are out have the exterminator come in and check everything out. Then put it all back together again. IMO this plus a fitted duct shroud with no gaps is a very good option.
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Oct 26, 2020 00:26
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That's what I would do too. Have any chewed up ducting replaced with less chewable ducting, clean and or ozone or bleach treat the remaining ducts, pull the unit temporarily, block up the gaps around the duct, put in a pad and put it right back together.
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Oct 26, 2020 00:41
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Ok. Sounds reasonable. Do you guys know what the different types of ducting material is, or a chart or site I could look at so I know what ask for? When I initially asked about changing the material the technician indicated we could replace it with the next level of durability but also said that rats would likely be able to get through anything that was within reach short of solid metal. Also, should I use this opportunity to just completely rethink the system I use? As I mentioned before, my unit is completely oversized for the duct size I have. Is now the time to think about getting a smaller or more efficient system? Finally, is there a good website that I can read that goes into how ductless systems work and get into the weeds so I know what kinds of additional questions I need to be asking?
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Oct 26, 2020 01:08
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kastein posted:That's what I would do too. Have any chewed up ducting replaced with less chewable ducting, clean and or ozone or bleach treat the remaining ducts, pull the unit temporarily, block up the gaps around the duct, put in a pad and put it right back together. This is the kind of educated and reasonable option that was rejected in the other thread. Which is why more opinions are being shopped for here.
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Oct 26, 2020 01:25
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