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In my experience as a boggart who haunts thrift stores, finding good speakers there is rare but it happens. They don’t sit around long. They also will often have to be refoamed, but that’s really not hard to do or expensive. Craigslist/Facebook has way better odds of getting something you want in useable condition, but you will pay more (sometimes).
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Oct 11, 2020 00:10
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https://www.amazon.com/Klipsch-Synergy-B-100-Bookshelf-Speakers/dp/B07VMTLQJ8/ref=cm_cr_arp_d_product_top?ie=UTF8 Could I pick up these to use in my home theater set up with a receiver, and add in a Sub later? My biggest concern with buying used is the fact that I know nothing about audio equipment, and I may miss obvious red flags. The best I can do is look up the model number on ebay to make sure I'm paying fair price, and maybe gather up a few reviews, but I'm scared of getting burned, and I'd much rather just get new. I know I can get a better deal by going used, but I feel like that's only the case if you know what you're getting into. Bioshuffle fucked around with this message at 17:07 on Oct 11, 2020 |
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Oct 11, 2020 17:04
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If you’re buying new I suggest holding off until you can save more money. Those cheap Klipsch are probably super bright if there’re like their older speakers. For $120 you can get these which are probably the cheapest speakers I’d recommend. The market really opens up in the $200-250/pair range with good options from Elac, Polk, Jamo, Q Acoustics, JBL, etc. cheaper than that is actually more difficult to shop because there’s overlapping compromises you need to keep in mind. What you want is a rectangular MDF box with a 5” or bigger driver.
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Oct 11, 2020 22:51
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A friend of mine has been gifted a speaker and receiver(?) set. This doesn't have a remote and sounds like one of those "back of a van" scam brands when she found the brand so universal remotes don't seem to work. What are her options for getting remote control of this system? Is it like, an actual receiver you can plug the speakers into and then ditching the included one or what?
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Oct 12, 2020 18:29
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tuyop posted:A friend of mine has been gifted a speaker and receiver(?) set. This doesn't have a remote and sounds like one of those "back of a van" scam brands when she found the brand so universal remotes don't seem to work. What brand is it?
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Oct 12, 2020 18:32
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My amp (Yamaha HTR-5730) has an output impedance of 6 Ohm. My speakers (Energy CB20) specify "8 Ohms nominal; 4 Ohms minimum". Would I gain any noticeable improvements by better matching the impedance with a different amp?
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Oct 12, 2020 21:04
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me your dad posted:My amp (Yamaha HTR-5730) has an output impedance of 6 Ohm. My speakers (Energy CB20) specify "8 Ohms nominal; 4 Ohms minimum". The 6 Ohm listing on your receiver is probably just Yamaha fudging numbers to get to the magic 100 watts number for marketing purposes. I'd guess it's around 50WPC at 8 ohms which should be plenty for most purposes, especially since those speakers look pretty efficient. If it sounds bad at high volumes or the receiver gets super hot you might want to look at a better amp but if it sounds OK at the volumes you listen to it you don't need more power. Doubling watt capacity at the amp only really adds 3db of headroom.
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Oct 12, 2020 22:29
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Thanks. They sound great at all volumes so I'll keep the receiver as is. I've owned it for about twenty years and I didn't know if I was selling myself short since the speakers are relatively newer.
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Oct 12, 2020 23:23
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Weird double post oh no
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Oct 12, 2020 23:42
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BigFactory posted:What brand is it? “Matrix Audio Concepts” I guess. Here’s the logo 
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Oct 12, 2020 23:43
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Yeah those seem like white van speakers for sure, but at least they were free, right? Aren’t there universal remotes that will scroll through all the IR channels until they find one that works? That would be what I’d try first.
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Oct 12, 2020 23:49
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BigFactory posted:Yeah those seem like white van speakers for sure, but at least they were free, right? Yeah we tried one of those. Something like 300 codes and we only had some janky ones where like 3 would switch inputs and stuff.
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Oct 13, 2020 04:35
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Buy the cheapest Logitech Harmony you can find on Craigslist. Just remember to clean it well.
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Oct 13, 2020 07:06
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evobatman posted:Buy the cheapest Logitech Harmony you can find on Craigslist. Just remember to clean it well. I tried an old 650 I have and it’s the same problem, no vendor found in Logitech’s database. Is there some generic product we should try instead?
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Oct 13, 2020 15:08
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Crossposting from the vinyl thread. This is probably a more appropriate place to ask: Assuming I don't need HTMI arc is there any reason to pay $800 for the new Klipsch The Fives instead of paying $375 for R-51PMs and maybe making my own custom 50s style grill? Or even $325 for the smaller (maybe better for my small apt R-41PMs.
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Oct 13, 2020 16:13
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Generally Klipsch speakers have had an upward tilt that makes them sound really bright to me, but supposedly some of their newer (including the fives) stuff has moved away from that. Not sure where the 51s would fit in that world.
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Oct 13, 2020 16:55
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powderific posted:Generally Klipsch speakers have had an upward tilt that makes them sound really bright to me, but supposedly some of their newer (including the fives) stuff has moved away from that. Not sure where the 51s would fit in that world. They came out the same year as the better sounding new RP line, so... maybe less bright? I also liked my old KG 4.5s from the 90s, so
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Oct 13, 2020 23:08
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powderific posted:Generally Klipsch speakers have had an upward tilt that makes them sound really bright to me, but supposedly some of their newer (including the fives) stuff has moved away from that. Not sure where the 51s would fit in that world. One of the things many are saying specifically about the new TheFives is that they're kind of bass-y which might not be best for my small apartment?
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Oct 13, 2020 23:17
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qirex posted:If you’re buying new I suggest holding off until you can save more money. Those cheap Klipsch are probably super bright if there’re like their older speakers. For $120 you can get these which are probably the cheapest speakers I’d recommend. The market really opens up in the $200-250/pair range with good options from Elac, Polk, Jamo, Q Acoustics, JBL, etc. cheaper than that is actually more difficult to shop because there’s overlapping compromises you need to keep in mind. What you want is a rectangular MDF box with a 5” or bigger driver. Thanks for the tip! Instead of dicking around with used gear while I don't know what the hell I'm doing, or settling for bottom of the line stuff, I decided to get a cheap soundbar until I can save up for a real system. It supposedly has Dolby x surround, but I have vaulted ceilings, so I'm sure that won't do jack all when it comes down to it. Still, it'll be better than the speakers on my TV.
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Oct 15, 2020 17:06
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I think you made the right call — it'll be easier to look for deals if you're not feeling constrained to just get something sorted when you do decide to upgrade too.Avian Pneumonia posted:One of the things many are saying specifically about the new TheFives is that they're kind of bass-y which might not be best for my small apartment? Not sure that's something to worry about that much — I doubt they're going to be rattling the floors like a subwoofer.
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Oct 15, 2020 17:41
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I set the crossovers to the lowest hz my speakers/sub supported, maybe bumped the sub a fuzz higher so deep voices weren't super bass. 80hz for the tiny satellite speakers 120 for sub. Is that sane? https://www.klipsch.com/products/reference-theater-pack They normally say put your sub left or right of your tv a few feet, or maybe like a corner behind your couch? Or I've heard, move your couch, put your sub in where you'll be sitting/listening and then where the sub sounds best is where you put it?
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Oct 19, 2020 11:20
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There is no wrong or right way to set up your speakers for your own ears. If it sounds good to you, then it's good as you're the only one that has to be happy with it. By all means tune everything to reference or go by someone else's settings but your room layout and shape will be different, what you have in the room will be different, your speakers will be different, you'll probably have the speakers in different spots and most importantly your own hearing will be different. You can sit in your room all day with RTA kit measuring everything and twiddling settings to get it perfect but that doesn't mean it'll sound good to you specifically when you're done. My own personal hearing deficiencies mean I tend to bump the low end a little more than most and I'm sensitive towards the top end so roll parts of that off to avoid ear fatigue if I want to watch something fairly loud. ...and then I have musician friends come over whose hearing is irreparably hosed from decades of unspeakably loud gigs who struggle to make certain things out. Never listen to the audio advice from anyone who has played in bands, particularly not a drummer, they are loving DEAF.
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Oct 19, 2020 12:40
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Quaint Quail Quilt posted:I set the crossovers to the lowest hz my speakers/sub supported, maybe bumped the sub a fuzz higher so deep voices weren't super bass. I assume you're setting this on a receiver and the main speakers are set to "small"? If so, the crossover you're setting for the main speakers/satellites is the crossover point between them and the sub for the main channels. 80Hz is a good starting point in general, and a lot of home theater speaker sets are designed with that in mind. The setting for the sub specifically is probably the LFE cutoff frequency. You don't want to lower this, it should be set to the highest setting (which is 120Hz). The LFE channel is additional bass content, it doesn't duplicate what's in the main channels and it doesn't affect the crossover between the main speakers and the sub. Lowering it would cut off some LFE content unnecessarily. Quaint Quail Quilt posted:They normally say put your sub left or right of your tv a few feet, or maybe like a corner behind your couch? The classic method is to put the sub in your listening position (as in literally in your seat, not on the ground) play something with good bass and crawl along the floorboards, listening to where the bass sounds best. Very often that ends up being a position that doesn't really work with your furniture and general room layout, so it almost always ends up being a compromise. Put it where it works with your furniture and sounds good.
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Oct 19, 2020 13:24
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Wife and I are finally getting into the 21st century with our receiver. We have an old JVC which was very good 20 years ago, but it is time for something new. We are looking at AVRs and we have a pretty good idea of what we want, but there is one thing that is not common on new stuff, A/B speakers. Our house is wired for Audio and our current set up will play on speakers in other rooms. It is not complicated, no zones, etc. We do not see AVRs, that have A/B settings and speaker connections without going way beyond our price range. I have heard that if you have a pre-out on your AVR you can use that as the B side and then get a multi-zone amplifier to control the house audio. Does anyone have experience with this or a different better way to do it? We are not wanting wireless speakers. I am looking at something like this: https://www.accessories4less.com/make-a-store/item/denavrs650h/denon-avr-s650h-5.2-ch-x-75-watts-a/v-receiver-w/heos/1.html As the AVR.
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Oct 19, 2020 19:31
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I think A/B speaker selection are more common on stereo amplifiers than they are on receivers these days, but I might be wrong. Multizone is an absolute arse for sure though, and you might have noticed there's two different types of MZ which the pricepoint reflects. My Onkyo at about $300 or whatever firmly fits in the 'it does MZ but it's not true MZ' which is the ability to connect speakers in another room up via speaker wire, but limits you on what you can actually send down that path. Usually analog only sources, and then there's the joy of dealing with multichannel audio from movies/TV that goes to a stereo speaker pair so you don't have dialog coming through. In the end my setup has involved running a 3.5mm headphone output from the TV to an analog in on the amp which I then turn on/off as needed. I believe real MZ (on the $1,000 upwards amps) will fix some, but not all, of these issues. With regards to running a separate amp on the pre-amps for this, I've never had to do that so can't advise but wanted to ensure you knew the potential minefield that MZ poses.
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Oct 19, 2020 19:40
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A lot, maybe most, AVRs with 7+ channels will let you assign two or more channels to a second zone, which is what you're accomplishing with the A/B settings unless I'm missing something. edit: on your site, multiroom audio is the check box you're looking for in the search.
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Oct 19, 2020 19:47
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Got a U-Phoria UM2, used. When I plug it into my computer I get a connection and the interface passes sound to headphones no problem. I can’t get any mics to work, though. I’ve tried plugging two different mics into the line in/instrument and mic ports and turning up the gain but I get no signal or clipping light on the interface, except for when I first insert the 1/4” jack, and nothing on the computer. Touching the 1/4” to 1/8” adapter I’m using while monitor mode is on produces a hum. This is with +48v on and off, in two different computers. What are my troubleshooting steps here?
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Oct 26, 2020 15:35
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Do the microphones and/or the adapter have a trs (tip-ring-sleeve) jack?
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Oct 26, 2020 16:12
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qirex posted:For $120 you can get these which are probably the cheapest speakers I’d recommend.
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Oct 26, 2020 18:20
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Flipperwaldt posted:Do the microphones and/or the adapter have a trs (tip-ring-sleeve) jack? I’m not sure! Here are all the various plugs I’m working with. 
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Oct 26, 2020 18:40
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Those are all TRS except the one with the cable going out of the right hand side, which is TRRS.
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Oct 26, 2020 18:44
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What mics are you using?
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Oct 26, 2020 18:48
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powderific posted:What mics are you using? I've got a "pop voice" lav mic and the mic on my Steel Series 3 headset but split off into a Y-adapter. I was hoping to grab a desktop dynamic mic next as well to round out the options.
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Oct 26, 2020 18:51
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Edit for future: misinformation! Read the next post. I wouldn’t think either of those need phantom power — do you have the mic gain turned up all the way? Usually dynamic mics are a really weak signal. powderific fucked around with this message at 21:54 on Oct 26, 2020 |
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Oct 26, 2020 19:19
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powderific posted:I wouldn’t think either of those need phantom power — do you have the mic gain turned up all the way? Usually dynamic mics are a really weak signal. Most PC mics are electrets, not dynamic. Dynamic capsules have to be relatively large to generate a usable signal. Headset mics need to be small. Most electrets have a tiny FET inside and need bias power. For cheap headsets your computer mic jack usually supplies a volt or three between the signal leg and ground instead of actual serious business 3-conductor phantom power. Trying to adapt a cheap PC mic into a more prosumer input can be tricky.  See how tip and ring are connected together? A balanced TRS input is expecting identical but inverted signals there. Because both hot and cold are identical, they get cancelled out. OP: buy a mic with XLR. eddiewalker fucked around with this message at 20:13 on Oct 26, 2020 |
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Oct 26, 2020 20:06
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eddiewalker posted:Most PC mics are electrets, not dynamic. Dynamic capsules have to be relatively large to generate a usable signal. Headset mics need to be small. That's extremely helpful, thank you! Have a recommendation for one? I'm looking for something that I can use to record videos and teach students remotely without having a lav mic pinned to me all the time or a headset on my head. tuyop fucked around with this message at 21:05 on Oct 26, 2020 |
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Oct 26, 2020 21:03
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eddiewalker posted:Most PC mics are electrets, not dynamic. Dynamic capsules have to be relatively large to generate a usable signal. Headset mics need to be small. Wups! That's what I get for assuming my rudimentary knowledge on the more pro side would extend to this. Edit: tuyop are you going to be moving around or is this just sitting at your desk? powderific fucked around with this message at 22:14 on Oct 26, 2020 |
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Oct 26, 2020 22:03
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powderific posted:Wups! That's what I get for assuming my rudimentary knowledge on the more pro side would extend to this. I have a headset for moving around so I’m not worried about that. But are there options that way too?
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Oct 27, 2020 00:22
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I was more thinking if you were like... standing up in front of a board or something vs sitting at the desk. Nothing is going to sound great with a lot of moving, but you could have some kind of overhead mic if it was more of a waist up shot with a white board. You could do a hand mic and feel like a reporter: https://www.trewaudio.com/product/electrovoice-re50-dynamic-omnidirectional-microphone/ But I guess I'd probably do a large diaphragm condenser on tabletop stand or something similar if you want something that sounds nice not connected to your body. The audio technica AT2020 seems like a go-to cheap one, but it's backordered everywhere. I have this and it's pretty good: https://www.adorama.com/spb1.html?origterm=studioprojects+b1&searchredirect=true
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Oct 28, 2020 16:34
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Sorry if this isn't the right place for this, I tried the HDTV thread but got nothing. I'm running into an issue with my Apple TV 4k and my receiver... the screen constantly cuts to black for 2-3 seconds, basically every second. I have an entirely new home theater setup so it's most likely something I'm doing wrong, but I'm new to this and have minimal idea what I'm doing. I have the Apple TV plugged into a Denon receiver (also 4K), which is plugged into a 4K Sony X900H tv. Connected to the receiver are a pair of Klipsch speakers. I set it up Sunday night and things seemed to work fine -- I was able to play Spotify on the ATV without issue. Yesterday I went to watch a movie and that's when the flashing began. I was able to navigate to the video output settings on the Apple TV and play around with the different signals but nothing. I unplugged the HDMI cable from the receiver/apple tv/tv and tried them in different slots. Nothing worked, and I didn't touch anything or change anything between Sunday night and Monday afternoon (that I know of). I can plug the ATV directly into my tv and it works fine. Any ideas? Googling gives me a similar issue but I don't think it's the same issue I'm running into. And if there's a better place for this just let me know.
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Nov 3, 2020 20:53
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