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poopinmymouth posted:As a counter, there are some things on a computer in 3d that are so much easier and faster, assuming one knows a 3d program. I was lucky that i worked 15 years as a videogame artist, so I know Max and Maya very well, neither of which are really CAD software, but can easily function as such. My garden window and those bedroom windows had angles that I let the computer solve for me, and the garden window specifically had design elements I believe a paper design would have skipped over and become problematic in building (for me personally). I'm a bit of a lurker but I love your red window and this animation rules. Everybody deserves a little recognition.
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Oct 19, 2020 10:17
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poopinmymouth posted:If you have a brain that visualizes things in 3D, and don't mind learning programs, I highly suggest giving at least SketchUp a try, or Blender. It can be very enjoyable for the right sort of brain. That's super sweet dude. More woodworking projects need exploded animated drawings. I use Fusion360 professionally and also for my woodworking projects. I found Sketchup to be a terrible hateful thing but I know some folks get good use out of it. It is surprisingly popular in the timberframing world. But for a solid parametric modelling program that is free I like Fusion. If you're a Solidworks person you can get a $40 membership to the EAA and get a student license of Solidworks with it. One really nice thing about Fusion and SW is the wealth of online tutorials. You can google "dovetails Fusion360" and some turbonerd will have a 4 minute step-by-step video on how to do it way easier than whatever you planned on.
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Oct 19, 2020 12:39
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I just watched the first episode of this new woodworking reality show The Chop: Britain's Top Woodworker. It was far, far better than I was expecting. Basically GBBO but for woodworking. They gloss over a lot of the technicalities, but hopefully they'll be able to go into more detail once the field is thinned out. Production is good and avoids the awful US-style with faked drama etc. Everyone seems pretty chill, and they give them a lot of freedom to be creative. They also all seem to be very competent. I've just come off binge-watching Canada's Worst Handyman so I've had to stop thinking someone's about to put a nail through their hand. Be prepared for some very dry British humour from Lee Mack. It does highlight just how many skills a modern woodworker needs to have, vs even 50 years ago when things were far more specialised. Definitely gives the generalists a leg-up. Would have been nice to have more (any) women as judges/hosts but they do have 3 women contestants which is honestly better than I would expect. Anyway I'd recommend giving it a shot. Someone's uploaded the first ep to YouTube https://www.youtube.com/watch?v=s0vKyqWZTUY poopinmymouth posted:If you have a brain that visualizes things in 3D, and don't mind learning programs, I highly suggest giving at least SketchUp a try, or Blender. It can be very enjoyable for the right sort of brain. Sick animation! Also, I've been wanting to learn blender for ages. How "against the grain" is it to use it for that kind of real-world 3d planning? I'm very used to sketchup which seems focused on exactly that use case so im wondering how difficult it will be to learn blender with it potentially fighting against me at the same time... Granite Octopus fucked around with this message at 13:00 on Oct 19, 2020 |
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Oct 19, 2020 12:52
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AAAAA! Real Muenster posted:Can anyone recommend a tool/program that would be good for me as a newbie to designing and building things out of wood to use to use to plan the desk I am going to build? I also support just drawing stuff on paper for your design process. That's how I start my designs. Once I come up with a design I like, I model it in SketchUp. Running through the modeling process makes me think about every single joint, and how I would do that with my process. Often I'll run into some flaw and have to tweak the design to make it buildable. The process is going to be different for everyone. Try a few things and see what works for you. If you decide to try SketchUp, I strongly recommend this video guide: https://sketchupforwoodworkers.com/ It'll take a few hours to go through, but you'll come out the other side knowing how to use the tool. It's a little outdated with the current software, but it should translate well enough. Whatever tool you use, don't just install it and start fiddling. 3D modeling is hard, you'll need to learn the tool to be able to use it.
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Oct 19, 2020 12:57
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poopinmymouth posted:If you have a brain that visualizes things in 3D, and don't mind learning programs, I highly suggest giving at least SketchUp a try, or Blender. It can be very enjoyable for the right sort of brain. Tinkercad works quite well and is very simple, though if you are doing something as complex as those sweet windows it probably isn't well suited to it.
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Oct 19, 2020 13:27
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I do my stuff in Rhino, which is way more advanced than required to do woodworking modeling. Sketchup would be sufficient for almost every normal woodworking project I'm sure. I just have Rhino from being in architecture.
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Oct 19, 2020 13:39
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Unrelated but what is this kind of window called?
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Oct 19, 2020 14:14
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Centrist Committee posted:Unrelated but what is this kind of window called? A bay window
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Oct 19, 2020 14:16
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Rutibex posted:A bay window I think a bay window doesn't have the 90 degree returns. \__/ vs |_| I've always seen that type of window called a garden window. AFewBricksShy fucked around with this message at 17:10 on Oct 19, 2020 |
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Oct 19, 2020 14:54
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If I were going to buy one saw for working on some odd projects here and there for building things out of wood, like the desk I've referenced or a shelf for an awkward spot in our laundry room, what saw would you recommend? I have a smallish shed (no garage) for storing it.ColdPie posted:I also support just drawing stuff on paper for your design process. That's how I start my designs. Once I come up with a design I like, I model it in SketchUp. Running through the modeling process makes me think about every single joint, and how I would do that with my process. Often I'll run into some flaw and have to tweak the design to make it buildable. The process is going to be different for everyone. Try a few things and see what works for you.
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Oct 19, 2020 16:10
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Is it feasible to do woodworking projects without having a truck or SUV or van? I only have a sedan, but I've heard it's possible to get the people at Home Depot or Lowe's to make the big cuts for you. I always see the wood cutting stations- how does that work? Do you just pay first and ask them to cut it? I'd love to take on some projects, but with just a sedan, I feel like my options are extremely limited. If I could get them to make a cut for me, I figure I could fit some of the timber home if I bring the rear seat down. Have any of you been in a similar situation to me? I certainly don't do enough woodworking projects to warrant a home delivery, although I know that is another option.
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Oct 19, 2020 16:41
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Bioshuffle posted:Is it feasible to do woodworking projects without having a truck or SUV or van? I only have a sedan, but I've heard it's possible to get the people at Home Depot or Lowe's to make the big cuts for you. I always see the wood cutting stations- how does that work? Do you just pay first and ask them to cut it? Well you definitely don't need a truck.  More to the point I see people at the small lumberyard nearby loading wood into their small cars all the time with planks sticking out the back. I've also always been happy to pay for delivery when I've bought 300$ of wood and didn't want to make four trips
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Oct 19, 2020 16:46
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Bioshuffle posted:Is it feasible to do woodworking projects without having a truck or SUV or van? I only have a sedan, but I've heard it's possible to get the people at Home Depot or Lowe's to make the big cuts for you. I always see the wood cutting stations- how does that work? Do you just pay first and ask them to cut it? I only have a sedan and a hatchback and manage well enough. You can rent a truck at the box stores if you really need to move a bunch of sheet goods in tact, but they will actually do a certain number of cuts for you for free, and more if you pay for them at like 50 cents a cut or something like that. Just don't expect them to make precision cuts, ask for bigger than you need and cut to the actual length at home.
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Oct 19, 2020 16:48
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I have a Civic that doesn't have a passthrough from the trunk into the cabin, and it's still possible, with some finagling, to get 8' lumber boards into the cabin. I sometimes have to not just open the front-right and rear-left doors, but also the windows, to give me enough room to back-and-forth the boards into the cabin, but it's doable. Plywood is trickier, mostly because my car doesn't really have any open spaces that can fit a 4'x4' square. Smaller cuts are doable though.
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Oct 19, 2020 17:06
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Made another thing. Box that fits little trays from ikea. First time trying a three way miter, came out pretty okay. 
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Oct 19, 2020 17:07
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Bioshuffle posted:Is it feasible to do woodworking projects without having a truck or SUV or van? I only have a sedan, but I've heard it's possible to get the people at Home Depot or Lowe's to make the big cuts for you. I always see the wood cutting stations- how does that work? Do you just pay first and ask them to cut it? I don't even own a car and I manage to get plenty of wood to my house. Ask my about getting confused stares from neighbors as I drag logs along the sidewalk  SimonSays posted:Well you definitely don't need a truck. 
Rutibex fucked around with this message at 17:18 on Oct 19, 2020 |
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Oct 19, 2020 17:16
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TooMuchAbstraction posted:Plywood is trickier, mostly because my car doesn't really have any open spaces that can fit a 4'x4' square. Smaller cuts are doable though. Yeah.. there's not much out there smaller than, like, a minivan that you can get a 4'x4' in to. Like, my Mazda 3 hatchback could fit a 4x4 sheet, the opening just isn't big enough to actually get it in.
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Oct 19, 2020 17:24
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You could try this https://www.youtube.com/watch?v=cTHLpA4267Q&t=73s
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Oct 19, 2020 17:29
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I will cop to spending some time trying to work out sketchup. I'm a photoshop/illustrator/indesign guy professionally but I bounced back to paper and pencil almost immediately for project plans. Maybe I should learn ... dimension? I think is the adobe equivalent. At any rate, here's a PDF of the graph paper I generally use for sketchup. Starting from the grey dot corner, the large hashes are on the 12s, so for a big project you can work in 1-inch-per-square (up to 8x6) or smaller stuff can be 3 inches per square, letting you work in quarter inches (up to 2x1.5). https://drive.google.com/file/d/1yyPn34KDJVLDYm2X3H2RkoSkDhzflHJ7/view?usp=sharing
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Oct 19, 2020 17:42
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Bioshuffle posted:Is it feasible to do woodworking projects without having a truck or SUV or van? I only have a sedan, but I've heard it's possible to get the people at Home Depot or Lowe's to make the big cuts for you. I always see the wood cutting stations- how does that work? Do you just pay first and ask them to cut it? I have a hatchback (Ford C-Max) that has seats that fold all the way down, so I can get 8' boards in the car, as long as I don't mind them sitting on the center console. For plywood I either get it cut up at the store (you just ask someone working there, they often have to get someone else who's trained on the panel saw, and then they cut it for you), or a couple times I've rented a truck. It's a bit of a pain because you need a credit (not debit) card and have to sign a bunch of stuff, but it's $20, so less than a sheet of plywood. Frankly, Home Depot has never charged me for panel saw cuts.
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Oct 19, 2020 18:09
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Cause I'd like to build something like this  Which would be pretty damned easy if I could just get them to cut it at the store.
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Oct 19, 2020 18:15
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For that, I’d just bring a handsaw or battery powered circular saw and a tape measure and cut it into smaller parts in the parking lot. I’ve never seen them cut s4s stock in the store. Should really only take a few minutes to cut down enough to get into the car if you know your cut list ahead of time. Just cut large and clean it up at home. The local lumberyard would cut hardwoods down for me, but the standard size construction stuff they wouldn’t be so interested in cutting shorter. Local lumber yards will also have much better quality wood that a box store.
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Oct 19, 2020 18:44
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Is a miter saw all I would really need to make cuts of 2x4s, 4x4s, and anything else I would be cutting to make a desk or shelf?Huxley posted:I will cop to spending some time trying to work out sketchup. I'm a photoshop/illustrator/indesign guy professionally but I bounced back to paper and pencil almost immediately for project plans. Maybe I should learn ... dimension? I think is the adobe equivalent.
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Oct 19, 2020 18:56
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AAAAA! Real Muenster posted:Is a miter saw all I would really need to make cuts of 2x4s, 4x4s, and anything else I would be cutting to make a desk or shelf? Miter saws are great for cutting across a board to make it shorter. What they can't do is lengthwise cuts, a.k.a. rip cuts. So the answer to your question really depends on if you're satisfied with the widths of the boards that you buy.
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Oct 19, 2020 19:02
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TooMuchAbstraction posted:Miter saws are great for cutting across a board to make it shorter. What they can't do is lengthwise cuts, a.k.a. rip cuts. So the answer to your question really depends on if you're satisfied with the widths of the boards that you buy.
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Oct 19, 2020 19:12
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Since no one has mentioned it yet re: wood transport... Get a roof rack. Get some webbing straps with cinch buckles. You can more a ton of flat stuff with this setup. Any time we upgrade a car this is the first accessory we buy.
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Oct 19, 2020 19:23
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AAAAA! Real Muenster posted:Thats kinda what I figured. Is there a good alternative that you would recommend? I have money to spend but space is a consideration as I dont have a spot to set up a proper workbench - I will probably be setting up the saw then taking it back down every time I use it. A benchtop bandsaw would give you more options, and it doesn't really take up more space than a miter saw: https://www.amazon.com/WEN-3959-2-5-Amp-9-Inch-Benchtop/dp/B077QMBTLP/
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Oct 19, 2020 19:25
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You can move anything with anything if you try hard enough. 
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Oct 19, 2020 19:29
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Thumposaurus posted:You can move anything with anything if you try hard enough. https://www.youtube.com/watch?v=CRA_fUpCxWA
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Oct 19, 2020 19:53
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AAAAA! Real Muenster posted:Thats kinda what I figured. Is there a good alternative that you would recommend? I have money to spend but space is a consideration as I dont have a spot to set up a proper workbench - I will probably be setting up the saw then taking it back down every time I use it. The "which saw" debate shows up fairly frequently, though not so often that I can just point you to the last time it happened. Let me see if I can sum up the pros/cons of your various options: Table saw: is the workhorse saw for most shops. Can do any straight cut, though you'll want a sled for crosscuts. Generally though if you want one of these then you want it to be big -- "contractor" saws aren't great. Table saws are also the biggest cause of injury in carpentry shops, either from body parts contacting the sawblade, or from kickback (where the blade flings the workpiece back at the operator, due to improper cutting technique). Much of that is doubtless because of the table saw's popularity, but it's still easier to use wrong than most other carpentry power tools. Band saw: on the flipside, probably the safest power saw, which is not the same thing as actually being safe. Can do curved cuts and I would say is the only realistic power tool that can resaw wood (turning a 1" thick board into two 3/8" thick boards, say). Reliably making straight cuts takes practice, as the thin blade doesn't do much to help guide the cut on its own. The big issue with these is their limited cutting depth -- a 14" bandsaw can't cut more than 14" (actually probably more like 13") from any edge of a board. So they're not good for crosscuts or most plywood cuts. Circular saw: can do any cut, but needs a jig (or a steady hand) for every cut. I would personally not like to rip thin material with a circular saw though. A circular saw and a block of insulation foam to do your cuts on is a decent choice. Miter saw as mentioned is for crosscuts only. They do that very well, and a shop that has a table or band saw plus a miter saw is in good shape for cutting wood, but a miter saw on its own isn't really going to cut it. Jig saw: not really a workhorse saw. Can do curved cuts, and can cut anywhere, but cut quality and control are both limited. Handy if you need to cut a hole in something though -- drill a hole big enough for the blade, then stick the jigsaw in and go.
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Oct 19, 2020 19:57
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TooMuchAbstraction posted:The "which saw" debate shows up fairly frequently, though not so often that I can just point you to the last time it happened. Let me see if I can sum up the pros/cons of your various options: How does this differ from a European woodworking standpoint? I'm thinking products like Festool that focuses on guide rails for circular saws or sliding tables for table saws. (Not necessarily a question for TooMuchAbstraction, but a EuroGoon in general)
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Oct 19, 2020 20:05
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Track saw is notably absent from that list, which is otherwise a good list. Track saw - provides a guide rail that solves for most shortcomings of a circular saw. Capable of handling cuts on large/bulky pieces because you only have to move the tool rather than the workpiece (so cutting a 4x8 sheet of ply is safer than on a table saw, but not as limiting as a bandsaw.) Has trouble with smaller cuts, especially rips on narrow pieces. Can have trouble with repeatability if you don't have the necessary jigs to solve for that. Many of its shortcomings can be solved with the addition of an MFT or ACS style table. Very stowable (provided you have a wall space to store your rail if you get a long one) My shop cuts are about 40% bandsaw, 30% track saw, and 30% handsaws. If I was starting from scratch an ACS/MFT system with a track saw would be the first purchase I would make (followed by quite a few hand tools, then a dewalt 735, then a bandsaw, then a drill press) GEMorris fucked around with this message at 21:05 on Oct 19, 2020 |
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Oct 19, 2020 21:02
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Jhet posted:For that, I’d just bring a handsaw or battery powered circular saw and a tape measure and cut it into smaller parts in the parking lot. I’ve never seen them cut s4s stock in the store. Should really only take a few minutes to cut down enough to get into the car if you know your cut list ahead of time. Just cut large and clean it up at home. I didn't even think about that option! I guess if it's Home Depot, I guess they wouldn't care if I start sawing stuff in the parking lot. This is something I'll have to look into. Thanks!
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Oct 19, 2020 21:38
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  Destined for firewood? Work around the holes? Burn down my house because it's infested? This is pile of 6/4 air dried poplar I picked up for too cheap.
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Oct 19, 2020 23:29
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Insect holes add rustic character! Just be sure to give it a good hit on the ground a few times to shake out any guests
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Oct 20, 2020 00:44
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Bioshuffle posted:I didn't even think about that option! I guess if it's Home Depot, I guess they wouldn't care if I start sawing stuff in the parking lot. This is something I'll have to look into. Thanks! I have cut many, many things in the Home depot parking lot. A hand saw or battery powered one will be your friend. Chances are you won't be the the only one doing it. It may be faster to just cut things yourself in the parking lot than to wait 30 minutes for someone to make the cuts for you if yours is anything like mine. I have a Sonic Hatchback so not a lot of room. I can fit a 6' board in though without too many problems. Just bought some padauk and maple from Rockler and the boards were 5' and 6' and about 6" wide. I think if I went any longer I would need a roof rack or boards hanging out the windows.
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Oct 20, 2020 01:57
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NomNomNom posted:
You can treat it with timbor/boracare and maybe that will work? Personally I hate powder post beetles and will do anything possible to keep them out of my wood stash. Depending on how much it is, for cheap poplar, I think I'd burn it. I've burned curly maple because I didn't want to burn the poplar next to it, and it really hurt my feelings. Powder post beetles are not uncommon in wood that has not been kiln dried. If you bought it from a reputable lumberyard/sawmill, they should take it back and if they don't, raise hell until they do. If you bought it from some dude, good luck have fun. Yooper posted:How does this differ from a European woodworking standpoint? I'm thinking products like Festool that focuses on guide rails for circular saws or sliding tables for table saws. (Not necessarily a question for TooMuchAbstraction, but a EuroGoon in general)
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Oct 20, 2020 19:24
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Sigh. Sounds like a lesson learned: don't buy air dried lumber from a dude on Craigslist. It was only 50 bucks, so I can't cry too much. Should burn nicely?
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Oct 20, 2020 19:28
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NomNomNom posted:Sigh. Sounds like a lesson learned: don't buy air dried lumber from a dude on Craigslist. It was only 50 bucks, so I can't cry too much. Should burn nicely? Sad but true. I think Boracare will cost you more than $50 anyway and I'm not sure I really trust it to kill the fuckers anyway.
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Oct 20, 2020 19:58
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Uthor posted:So I got a mess of comics in my closet. After a series of missteps, I finally started on this. I ended up measuring once and cutting twice because I made the cabinet a tiny bit too narrow. Now the drawers and slides will fit, but I think I went a bit too wide. I figure I need to shim them ~1/16" (maybe a little less). What's the best way to handle this? Do I just grab a shim pack and cut the piece that I would need? https://www.lowes.com/pd/Nelson-Wood-Shims-Actual-0-25-in-x-1-25-in-x-7-75-in-12-Pack-Fir-Wood-Shims/50051789
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Oct 20, 2020 21:44
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