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Weight matters, as well as drain holes. Thickness too. I tried printing some beskar ingots and made a fairly good way into them before they just sort of peeled themselves open. Also had a baby Yoda I did too thin that ended up looking like he was the test case for ED-209 because I made him too thin.
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Oct 22, 2020 12:28
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ImplicitAssembler posted:I had a Rostock Max V2 for years and while at the time they (Deltas) could produce superior quality.. A RS Max v2 was my first printer, and it is still the only one I have. Though it has been upgraded many times over. It is more or less a v4 now.
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Oct 22, 2020 14:55
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Z hop did it. I guess in this case there was more travel than in any PETG model I had printed before and it was getting snagged
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Oct 22, 2020 15:08
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Acid Reflux posted:Counterargument: Don't necessarily buy an Elegoo Mars, as they're now a generation behind the current technology. Newer monochrome-screened printers are faster, the screen lasts longer (it's a consumable item, the UV light and heat break them down over time), and are moving toward 4K resolution over 2K. Thanks for the info- I did some more research and a lot of people seem to think that 4k monochrome LCDs will be a drop-in upgrade in a year or two. Is that even possible? Also the specs look a little better on the Creality3D LD-002R, and I like the idea of the built-in air filter (even though I know I'll still need a ventilator). It costs the same but reviews say it's pretty much identical to the Elegoo Mars in quality. Anyone have any insight?
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Oct 22, 2020 17:19
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I had one successful print by introducing z-hop, and then the next one failed (I want 3 good ones total). What seems to be happening is that part way through at a random point - anywhere from 25% to 60% through the print - it just starts going back and forth on one axis - sometimes, X, sometimes Y, while it keeps extruding until it thinks that the part is finished. The really bad one that I posted was one where it must have gone for an hour or so without me noticing, producing that blob and canoe effect which builds up to the point that it runs out of space and pops the bed clips off. I've resliced it a ton of different times with different settings and it will happen at different points even in consecutive prints from the same gcode. The gcode that created the successful print then produced a failed one immediately afterwards. I had successful prints of other .stls amid my failures on this part. I've rebooted my entire system for the next attempt to see if that helps. The only thing unusual about this particular project is that it's a very large .stl which produces a 13.9 MB Gcode. Could that be causing octoprint or my printer to glitch out? e. I also just realized that the PLA prototype was printed with traditional supports, and since I switched to PETG I've been working with tree supports because they're easier to remove, so that's another variable CommonShore fucked around with this message at 17:32 on Oct 22, 2020 |
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Oct 22, 2020 17:28
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Martytoof posted:What's the accepted guideline for SLA printing on something other than a 45 degree incline? I have a fairly long/tall model that exceeds build plate capacity if I print it at 45 degrees but would be fine if I printed at, say, 60 or 70. I already print with paranoid amounts of supports, is there anything else I should be compensating with? If possible, position/rotate the object so as to minimize the size of the cross section, ie get the smallest size of slices. The bigger the slice, the more force the model is subjected to during the peel.
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Oct 22, 2020 17:39
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CommonShore posted:I had one successful print by introducing z-hop, and then the next one failed (I want 3 good ones total). Do you have a loose cable to one (or several) of your motors? That's a weird failure mode and it's not the sliced gcode if that code worked fine once. Edit: maybe try printing it off a card instead of via octoprint?
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Oct 22, 2020 17:50
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armorer posted:Do you have a loose cable to one (or several) of your motors? That's a weird failure mode and it's not the sliced gcode if that code worked fine once. I'll (re-)check the cables after this attempt. I was thinking about trying it from a card next. I'm 34% in and so far so good, but that's now the danger zone.
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Oct 22, 2020 18:06
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CommonShore posted:I had one successful print by introducing z-hop, and then the next one failed (I want 3 good ones total). 13.9MB is nothing for a gcode file. I've had > 250MB gcode files before. Are you ejecting the SD card, or just yanking it? The thing itself may be corrupted.
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Oct 22, 2020 18:26
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insta posted:13.9MB is nothing for a gcode file. I've had > 250MB gcode files before. Using octoprint. I noticed the print was dead at 67%. This is what the octorpint terminal was reporting at the end. quote:Send: N290322 G1 X130.664 Y104.465 E3474.95963*106 CommonShore fucked around with this message at 18:42 on Oct 22, 2020 |
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Oct 22, 2020 18:39
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It worked off of the sd card. I'm going to try one more time so that I have a few copies of the part to give to my friend. This is a really frustrating and dumb problem.
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Oct 22, 2020 20:57
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CommonShore posted:It worked off of the sd card. I'm going to try one more time so that I have a few copies of the part to give to my friend. This is a really frustrating and dumb problem. Ping foosel, she might have an idea why it failed.
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Oct 22, 2020 21:09
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Oh good. My print ran out of filament 14 hours into a 16 hour job. Then the remaining bit of plastic cooked itself into the heating element over the remaining two hours and has jammed the entire thing. This is exactly what I wanted to spend my evening fixing. 
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Oct 22, 2020 21:23
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get thee a filament sensor. they're like 5 bucks or less on amazon and they're pretty easy to wire into most boards. (or, did you know that prusas have a filament sensor built into the extruder?)
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Oct 22, 2020 21:24
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Sagebrush posted:get thee a filament sensor. they're like 5 bucks or less on amazon and they're pretty easy to wire into most boards. That's probably a good idea. Normally I calculate how much filament I have by weighing an empty spool and compare it to the one I'm using. This was apparently not accurate enough. 
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Oct 22, 2020 21:28
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Sagebrush posted:get thee a filament sensor. they're like 5 bucks or less on amazon and they're pretty easy to wire into most boards. The Mk3S does, on the Mini it's an add-on that is in-line just outside the extruder.
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Oct 22, 2020 21:56
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The filament sensor has been an upgrade I'm so glad I got. Doing my first ASA print tonight, wish me luck 
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Oct 23, 2020 01:50
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How are peoples workflow with the wash n cure? I dumped a bunch alcohol in it but it became super cloudy after like 3 prints to the point that crap was getting in my models. I tried to filter it with the cone filters but that did jack poo poo. It’s taken like 2 weeks to settle but I’m almost afraid to pour it and stir it up again. I’ve been using a Tupperware bowl with smaller doses of alcohol instead. And that seems to settle far faster. I was thinking of getting a pickle container to pre-wash before the wash n cure but that kind of defeats the purpose. Any tips on filtering IPA??
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Oct 23, 2020 03:02
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NewFatMike posted:The filament sensor has been an upgrade I'm so glad I got. I had really good luck with the settings in Prusaslicer for ASA (check my posts ITT for some images of the prints, and the bridging MP4s).
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Oct 23, 2020 05:28
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I think I asked something similar before but I can't find it: if I got a silent board to my ender3 do I need to do new firmware things to it or is it still an Ender 3pro to the slicer?
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Oct 23, 2020 06:19
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cakesmith handyman posted:I think I asked something similar before but I can't find it: if I got a silent board to my ender3 do I need to do new firmware things to it or is it still an Ender 3pro to the slicer? If you got the Creality replacement board I'm pretty sure you just drop it in and go. If you got a third party one you'll need to configure and compile the firmware for it. The slicer shouldn't require much updating since not much has changed with the printer hardware unless you've added accessories that might need some new gcode.
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Oct 23, 2020 06:44
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Doctor Zero posted:How are peoples workflow with the wash n cure? I dumped a bunch alcohol in it but it became super cloudy after like 3 prints to the point that crap was getting in my models. I tried to filter it with the cone filters but that did jack poo poo. It’s taken like 2 weeks to settle but I’m almost afraid to pour it and stir it up again. The IPA I currently have in mine is also getting kinda cloudy, but it hasn't affected my gaming miniature prints in any noticeable way so far. I do recall someone asked Uncle Jessy on his YouTube channel how often he changes his print cleaning solution and he said something like "honestly I've left it for weeks and never had any issues". That said, I think a lot of people generally "filter" their IPA by curing it so that whatever resin is in there becomes more solid and easier to filter out when you run the solution through a paper filter (with the bonus of being slightly safer to dispose of too, in comparison to uncured resin). Maybe get a clear plastic container that's about the same size as the Wash & Cure one, dump the solution in there, cure it, filter out the sludge and solid bits, and see how it does? I'm thinking I may have to do that myself and see what kind of container I can find the next time I go to the store...
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Oct 23, 2020 07:31
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poo poo, get a dollar glass bowl from walmart. Just make sure to have a funnel for the filter and you are good. No reason to try and find a special container somewhere.
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Oct 23, 2020 07:39
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My 3D printing shame is that I use the bits of leftover filament rolls to print small, semi-disposable funnels in vase mode. Those get used for alcohol, resin, whatever. If they can't be cleaned properly or get too gunky, I toss it and grab the next one from the stack.
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Oct 23, 2020 08:34
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Stupid_Sexy_Flander posted:poo poo, get a dollar glass bowl from walmart. Just make sure to have a funnel for the filter and you are good. No reason to try and find a special container somewhere. Good idea and then I can use the original container right away The Eyes Have It posted:My 3D printing shame is that I use the bits of leftover filament rolls to print small, semi-disposable funnels in vase mode. Those get used for alcohol, resin, whatever. If they can't be cleaned properly or get too gunky, I toss it and grab the next one from the stack. This is brilliant!
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Oct 23, 2020 11:55
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Arven posted:Thanks for the info- I did some more research and a lot of people seem to think that 4k monochrome LCDs will be a drop-in upgrade in a year or two. Is that even possible? I don't think many hobby printers would be able to accept a 1-for-1 swap between 2K and 4K due to differences in how you'd have to drive the display, but I'm also no expert on LCD screens and I could be wrong about that. As far as print quality between the various machines goes - many of the printers in the original Mars/Photon/etc. category use the exact same screen. Like literally the same part number and are interchangeable between brands. What tends to be different is the UV lighting scheme. Some printers (and for the life of me, I couldn't tell you who uses what specifically) have a single UV LED with a lens that spreads the light across the screen surface, where others use an array of LEDs. Some are 30 watts, others are 40W, and some of the more expensive hobby units (Epax, maybe?) I think use a 50W light. Those variables will affect print times and overall quality to an extent, but realistically, I genuinely think you'd be hard pressed to tell the difference between most prints if someone handed you a sample from each machine. I can tell you that the guys who make the resin I use most often ("Hero" by 3D Resin Solutions) really like their LD-002R, to the point where they started selling them on their online store. I've never used one myself but it seems like it's perfectly comparable to its peers. Doesn't seem to have as wide of a user base as some of the others, but I think a lot of that has to do with the fact that it just wasn't on the market yet back when people were really starting to buy resin printers en masse. Honestly, if you're going to buy a $200 2K machine, you can probably just pick a name out of a hat these days and be pretty happy with what you get. 
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Oct 23, 2020 12:28
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Stupid_Sexy_Flander posted:poo poo, get a dollar glass bowl from walmart. Just make sure to have a funnel for the filter and you are good. No reason to try and find a special container somewhere. Well, I was thinking like one of those plastic juice/Kool-Aid pitchers you can get, nothing fancy. I have to save up my money for resin, after all.
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Oct 23, 2020 13:51
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Doctor Zero posted:
Let me tell you the opposite of brilliant: I didn't realize you could do vase mode (I never otherwise use it) without a solid bottom! So for a long while I was printing these and then manually cutting off the solid bottom that the slicer added on  It's SO much better to print a funnel with no solid bottom. Now I just add a small brim and snap it off after it prints.
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Oct 23, 2020 18:39
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Just replaced my Ender 3’s original main board (v1 from 2018) with a SKR Mini E3 with 2209s. Set up a print and literally forgot it was printing because the stepper noise is non existent. The noise didn’t bother me that much - basement so lots of background from HVAC - but I definitely understand why people talk about putting Noctua fans onto their printers now.
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Oct 23, 2020 21:45
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Kalman posted:Just replaced my Ender 3’s original main board (v1 from 2018) with a SKR Mini E3 with 2209s. Set up a print and literally forgot it was printing because the stepper noise is non existent. The noise didn’t bother me that much - basement so lots of background from HVAC - but I definitely understand why people talk about putting Noctua fans onto their printers now. how hard was that? I'm eyeing one myself. That comes with the BLTouch support and boot loader built in, right?
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Oct 23, 2020 23:42
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Doctor Zero posted:how hard was that? I'm eyeing one myself. That comes with the BLTouch support and boot loader built in, right? I use Klipper so I don’t know about the firmware support for a bltouch, but it has a hardware port for a BLtouch (no need for a pin 27 expander board) and firmware flashing is “stick a firmware file on an SD card and put it in the slot”. Install is pretty much “swap all the wires to basically the same spot as on the original board”, most annoying this was detaching the hot glue they used to hold the wires on the original board. SKR is mostly very well labeled except for the two “power” terminal blocks - one is for your DC in from the supply and the other goes to the hotend fan. Kalman fucked around with this message at 00:43 on Oct 24, 2020 |
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Oct 24, 2020 00:38
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  Prusament ASA is comically easy to print with, I definitely need to dial in my first layer more, but it went great. If the PC Blend is this easy, I'm straight up never buying another blend except for maybe like NylonX or NylonG in the future.
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Oct 24, 2020 17:04
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Just a quick update, I recently got a 2nd Elegoo Mars (my first one a few months back was the red/black one, the new arrival is the orange/silver one) after getting a really good deal for a used one off of eBay (the only downside is it didn't come with a resin vat, so I ordered a set of 2 brand new ones separately). And I have to say it's goddamn awesome being able to just fire up two of 'em and let them chug merrily along next to each other, printing out wargaming miniatures, bases for miniatures, etc. 
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Oct 25, 2020 08:19
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I'm terribly sorry but are there any good guidelines for Slicer settings that don't completely destroy the finish of a part? I'm print PLA with a 0.2 Nozzle and 0.08 layer height very consistently with no problems there, but the Simplify 3D supports just ravage any decent finish on bottoms portions of prints and can be just a complete nightmare to remove. I tried Cura tree supports which seem to fare significantly better in general but I simply do not understand what I am doing wrong on Simplify 3D. I also attempted a temperature tower yesterday I found out that temps ranging from 240C to 190C with my 0.2 I'm seeing pretty much zero difference. Is this normal? Shouldn't some of the bridges fail or come out at complete garbage? Using the same slicer settings I've achieved a very nice looking over hang of 65* with sagging only beginning to appear around 70* getting progressively worse. Is this pretty acceptable results for a simple overhang test? I'm still learning tons reading multiple forms and watching YouTube videos, but I know some goons are pretty massive well of information so I'd love any input. Thank you guys in advance for all your awesome input and experience. Hopefully with some help I can print the stupid scale Atlas and MadCat mechs I've always wanted as a child.
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Oct 25, 2020 08:34
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One of the only reasons I’d still consider using s3d is that the supports should be almost effortless to remove so it’s entirely down to your settings. Unless you use a soluble support there’s always going to be _some_ loss on the underside of supported parts but not catastrophic. Your results for overhangs are what I’d expect for a small nozzle and small layers. You wouldn’t get the same results using a .4mm nozzle and .3mm layers because the stick out on each layer is so much more.
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Oct 25, 2020 08:56
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Moochewmoo posted:I'm terribly sorry but are there any good guidelines for Slicer settings that don't completely destroy the finish of a part? I'm print PLA with a 0.2 Nozzle and 0.08 layer height very consistently with no problems there, but the Simplify 3D supports just ravage any decent finish on bottoms portions of prints and can be just a complete nightmare to remove. I tried Cura tree supports which seem to fare significantly better in general but I simply do not understand what I am doing wrong on Simplify 3D. I had the same problem with S3D. What's happening is that the supports are getting too tightly fused to the model, and they aren't close enough together, so the bridging is making the surface rough. Increase the separation from part settings. mine are .5mm horizontal offset, upper separation 2 layers, lower separation 2 layers. Also consider increasing the density to 40% to reduce bridging. It takes more material, but I get decent results with that. As far as temps go, depending on the filament you can vary it quite a bit and not see a difference. Some filaments get horrible if you go outside a 5 degree difference. A couple of things I learned here: You can go too high with the end temp and then you get problems with the filament adhering to the bed. I thought hotter was always better, but that's wrong. Also, if you crank up the bed temp too much you start to get corners lifting due to the upper layers pulling them up when they cool. Again, I thought higher was always better, but that's also wrong. At the end, if it prints nicely, use that setting. Doctor Zero fucked around with this message at 13:12 on Oct 25, 2020 |
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Oct 25, 2020 13:07
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Since the OP says to  A friend of ours has talked 6 of us into splitting the cost on Anycubic Photon Mono we haven't order it yet but I'm the one looking into things like "are there replacement parts" "is it still supported" etc because they're going "WE'RE GONNA BE ABLE TO PRINT SO MANY MINIATURES!!!" and I feel like it's not going to be as easy as they're making it out to be. What's a good place to read up on resin printers aimed towards people who know nothing? Edit: I don't actually want to pirate any miniatures from developed miniature wargames I promise. I want to make token organizers for my boardgames and ridiculous things like that snail with a xenomorph head Len fucked around with this message at 01:19 on Oct 26, 2020 |
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Oct 25, 2020 23:43
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Resin printing is easier than FDM. So many fewer settings and things to go wrong. There's still some finesse to getting things right. The number one thing you'll need to worry about with resin printers is resin safety. Exposure to resin build up in your system over time and when you reach a threshold, you start having allergy-like reactions to it. Shouldn't be much of a problem as long as you ventilate and wear (disposable) nitrile gloves when handling uncured resin. Also, for a page or so back, use mechanical separation of cured resin as an absolute last resort. Acetone for fully cured resin and IPA for partially cured stuff works just fine. It can bond so solidly with with the film that any form of mechanical separation either won't work or will damage the screen. I learned this hard hard way 
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Oct 26, 2020 12:20
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The recommendation I make based on my half year experience with SLA printing is: SUPPORTS SUPPORTS SUPPORTS Auto generate your supports and then some. You will need a metric ton of them for any print. I tried to cut corners and support only what I thought was necessary, watched youtube videos where people add minimal supports with good success, and it cause me nothing but trouble. I can count on one hand the number of successful prints I had until I started auto-generating paranoid amounts of supports. And when you do auto-generate supports, make sure you scrub through your build timeline to verify that you have sufficient support on any edges that are printed. Often when I'm printing something round it will take that first sliver of corner and only generate one measly support for a long length of resin. I tend to add two more surrounding the initial support to be safe. Supporting properly shouldn't be controversial but I don't know if this over-support thing is universal advice and I'm sure someone will tell me I'm crazy and doing it wrong, but I'm not joking when I said I was ready to call it a day with SLA due to failed prints until I stopped trying to skimp on supports and in fact even until I started critically analyzing what my slicer thought was a sufficient amount of them. some kinda jackal fucked around with this message at 13:12 on Oct 26, 2020 |
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Oct 26, 2020 13:10
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I finally got around to checking out my hotend after the 500 degree incident. PTFE looked fine. I changed the thermistor out and did two PID tunes (the first one looked a little choppy after I plugged in the calculated values). I'll be doing a test print today to make sure everything survives motion. However during this I realized I must have had material leaking out of the top of the heater block because there's a bit of material sandwiched between the heatsink and the block. Any easy way to clean that stuff off? Is it hurting anything being on there? I know it's probably caused by an under tightened nozzle, so I'll check that out too.
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Oct 26, 2020 13:43
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