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In Miami, Machines Gone Wild and WRXpers are the most well known Subaru tuning shop I think. I generally trust Machines Gone Wild because I've seen them at various autocrosses in the before times.
net work error fucked around with this message at 20:43 on Oct 28, 2020 |
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Oct 28, 2020 20:40
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STR posted:Uh, those are Aukee, not Aukey. Aukey does make decent stuff, but those bulbs are completely unrelated. I've found the high beams on the new Impreza crap compared to my 06 Mazda 3. The low beams are okay, but still not as good. Weird
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Oct 28, 2020 21:27
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At least I went with quality bulbs instead of cheapies (I think I got Osram or Phillips...).
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tacopie posted:They also keep the people who see a wing and think I want to street race away. I don't have a fraction of the silliness that I did before. I drive a wagon and still get this poo poo all the time. Please advise.
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Oct 28, 2020 22:56
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tacopie posted:Something like that you could get an E-tune for. You'll have to get a Cobb Accessport which is spendy but those issues noted aside from the exhaust I couldn't recommend BrenTuning highly enough. net work error posted:In Miami, Machines Gone Wild and WRXpers are the most well known Subaru tuning shop I think. I generally trust Machines Gone Wild because I've seen them at various autocrosses in the before times. Thanks a lot! Miami is a straight shot for me, as I'm on the east coast. And when that Round 1 opens next year, I'l gladly spend a few days down there! I self-tuned my last car as best I could with Hondata's software (3rd gear pulls that mimic a dyno read,) but throttle mapping was deceptively confusing, and I have no knowledge of what makes a turbo tune safe and efficient beyond "maybe a lil richer than stoich," so I'll check those places out when the time comes!
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Oct 28, 2020 23:20
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Blacknose posted:I drive a wagon and still get this poo poo all the time. Please advise. Lift kit and mudders.
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Oct 29, 2020 03:21
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STR posted:Uh, those are Aukee, not Aukey. Aukey does make decent stuff, but those bulbs are completely unrelated. Mother FUCKER.
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Oct 29, 2020 09:56
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You misspelled "mother and father fucker".  Serious chat: they probably went with "Aukee" for that exact reason -  says they were hoping people would read it as "Aukey", who is pretty well known for basically being the budget version of Anker.
randomidiot fucked around with this message at 17:31 on Oct 29, 2020 |
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Oct 29, 2020 17:25
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Is there a recommended JDM or junk yard source for TY758 trans? (08-14) - I just missed one for $1300 shipped off eBay, but I figured I'd as your guys/gals.
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Oct 29, 2020 18:26
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Question about the 3.0 engined Outbacks. As I understand it the main problem with them (aside from being auto-only) is that the radiator isn't large enough and the engine operates at a temperature higher than desirable. If you found one with good head gaskets is there a larger radiator that would fit? Or would you also need a different water pump to cycle at a higher rate? I always kind of wanted one of them when I needed to haul more than my Impreza can handle, but those engine problems put me off. Were they fixed for the 3.6? And was the 3.6 ever mated to something other than that godawful CVT?
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Oct 31, 2020 00:11
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22 Eargesplitten posted:Question about the 3.0 engined Outbacks. As I understand it the main problem with them (aside from being auto-only) is that the radiator isn't large enough and the engine operates at a temperature higher than desirable. If you found one with good head gaskets is there a larger radiator that would fit? Or would you also need a different water pump to cycle at a higher rate? I always kind of wanted one of them when I needed to haul more than my Impreza can handle, but those engine problems put me off. Were they fixed for the 3.6? And was the 3.6 ever mated to something other than that godawful CVT? The head gaskets are badly designed and do not flow through water jackets, added heat capacity sure does help but the fundamental flaw is always there. You wont find one with from the factory head gaskets that is in anywhere close to long term viable anymore - IF they have been replaced well you got more life. Fixed enough in the 3.6. As for the the CVT...... your location may vary but in the USA I understand the answer is no.
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Oct 31, 2020 03:04
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Yeah, no manual 3.6s, but used 3.6s are about $2k and a used ECU on ebay is $200~. ECU can be repinned to run with a manual though. Place that was supposed to ship my engine hosed up, so instead of having my outback today, it's gonna be another week. New FB25 they found has 15k less than the one that should have shipped already, so I'm not complaining.
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Oct 31, 2020 03:14
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Does the FB20D (2020 Impreza) cold idle a bit shakily?
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Oct 31, 2020 03:17
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STR posted:You misspelled "mother and father fucker". Bi solidarity I guess but also yeah I'm usually better about catching that poo poo. At least the fake review checker seemed legit at the time.
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Oct 31, 2020 09:07
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It gets worse. Apparently,quote:Diode Dynamics is suspending the sale of LED Headlight bulbs in the United States, due to federal regulations which restrict the use of replaceable light sources in headlamps. This restriction applies to all LED Headlight bulbs on the market. It is not unique to Diode Dynamics. TL;DR: holy poo poo america is behind the times, LED headlights are not actually presently legal, keep it under your hat.
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Oct 31, 2020 10:40
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22 Eargesplitten posted:Question about the 3.0 engined Outbacks. As I understand it the main problem with them (aside from being auto-only) is that the radiator isn't large enough and the engine operates at a temperature higher than desirable. If you found one with good head gaskets is there a larger radiator that would fit? Or would you also need a different water pump to cycle at a higher rate? I always kind of wanted one of them when I needed to haul more than my Impreza can handle, but those engine problems put me off. I recently exploded one of them 2nd hand engine was cheaper than fixing, is an upside
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Oct 31, 2020 10:55
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SwissArmyDruid posted:It gets worse. Apparently, Same reason we don't get the awesome laser headlights from Audi.
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Oct 31, 2020 12:07
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On a related note the steering responsive LED headlights in my new wrx are possibly the coolest thing ever, especially how they swing side to side on startup. I don't think headlights are covered by the extended warranty though and I shudder to think what the mechanism would cost to replace 
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Oct 31, 2020 12:27
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So my Brokeback (03 w/2.5 & auto) has always had a hard KACHUNK into reverse the first time I put it in reverse after it's been sitting awhile. I'm getting ready to do motor mounts (since the engine tries to rip itself out of the engine bay at the moment  ), but in googling how to do the motor mounts, I came across a few threads on the subaruoutback.org forums about the clunk being torn rear diff mounts. Pretty much all of them result in someone eventually coming along and telling people to try to get the diff centered in the mounts, use some window weld, and let it cure.Confirm/deny that this is likely the source of the loud clunk into reverse? It's only when cold (so likely shifting a bit harder into reverse already). There's tons of creaking coming from the back anyway, I'm sure just about every bushing is done. Sidenote: I knew the mounts were shot, but I didn't realize they were at the point that they are. I started it with the hood open a little while ago, stood on the brake, put it in drive, gave it some gas, and the driver's side of the engine came up a few inches.  Going into reverse and giving it gas isn't nearly as bad, but it's still moving a bit. Recommendations on motor mount brands on Rockauto? Advance Auto only carries Anchor, who I've heard nothing but good  things about. Special order anyway.
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Oct 31, 2020 14:36
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CAT INTERCEPTOR posted:The head gaskets are badly designed and do not flow through water jackets, added heat capacity sure does help but the fundamental flaw is always there. You wont find one with from the factory head gaskets that is in anywhere close to long term viable anymore - IF they have been replaced well you got more life. Okay. I'd be fine with an auto, but the CVT on my mother's '13 Outback has been a lot of trouble. The reason I want to get a Subaru with a bigger engine is that I'm hopefully moving up into the mountains in a few months and when I went up there a month or two ago there were a few hills on I-70 west towards the Eisenhower Tunnel where my OBS needed me to downshift to maintain speed and it was kind of awkward, and I also don't like revving the engine up that high for extended periods. I still want an SVX but I have to admit it's not a very practical choice when one of my concerns is driving in 6" of snow and also it hasn't been made in 23 years. My understanding is that the turbo 2.5s in the Legacy GT are failure-prone and I've gotten spoiled by how reliable my 2.2 is. Ideally I'd get a low pressure turbo on my EJ22 but $$$$. 22 Eargesplitten fucked around with this message at 21:09 on Oct 31, 2020 |
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Oct 31, 2020 20:59
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The 3.6 is offered in the Outback and Legacy with the 5EAT (5 speed auto) from 10-14.
Wrar fucked around with this message at 21:15 on Oct 31, 2020 |
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Oct 31, 2020 21:11
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Ah, okay, thanks. Probably out of my budget for now, but good to know.
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Oct 31, 2020 22:49
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SwissArmyDruid posted:It gets worse. Apparently, Not quite; LED replacement bulbs for incandescent fixtures are what is banned. OEM LED lamps are still okay.
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Oct 31, 2020 23:33
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It is also never enforced. Unless you're a minority.
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Nov 1, 2020 06:29
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Wait, so are LED replacements for incandescent bulbs actually decent nowadays? I was under the impression they're all trash and I have no way to tell the difference when shopping.
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Nov 1, 2020 08:53
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If you're asking if they still blind people, that mostly depends on the housing. It has been my impression the projector style housings with the lens (checked with one led/one bulb in) have the same pattern and aim; if you have the traditional reflector setups, they can be jacked up p bad and point into oncoming traffic. As for the color temp, read my previous posts. They're all too cool white for me. But they didn't burn out twice this summer and the electronics give off less overall heat than the old halogens.
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Nov 1, 2020 09:00
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Starting today, my EZ30 05 Outback has been real difficult starting Took it on a nice long drive in case the battery just needed a charge. Seemed to help 1st stop, but 2nd stop (also a fair drive after restarting) it REALLY struggled to start. Not sure how old the battery is. Replaced the starter motor with a reman one a coupla months ago, has been fine. Also the key fob now locks every door except the driver's, which seems odd? The half-alarm (the one when you lock with the fob but open with the key) went off first time I locked the car then opened the door, but no times since then. Is that just a low power thing for the locking, like it always leaves you a door open if your battery's hosed? Or is it a sticky lock mechanism? Does it sound like I need a new battery regardless of the lock issue?
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Nov 1, 2020 10:40
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If you can't remember how old the battery is, I'd start there. I'd also have your alternator tested first, because it'll just kill the new battery as well if it is failing.
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Nov 1, 2020 16:35
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Yeah, definitely check the alternator. I had one that was slowly dying over a cross-country trip and then finally died in southern Minnesota (and there was all of ONE after checking every parts store in Rochester) and replacing it was like night and loving day. What's this? It idles for more than two minutes? Hurrah!
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Nov 1, 2020 22:42
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Thanks guys. Today (having sat still 48 hrs or so): Tl;dr is struggled to start, idled a while, short drive (1 minute) to shops. Started fine after shopping (30 mins or so?). Radio key fob worked fine today. Long version: Really really struggled to start, as in I was convinced it wouldn't. Let it idle for a bit as I turned on lights, AC, and listened. There was what I'd describe as an "electric noise". Difficult to put into words. Have you ever sat below power pylons? Kinda like that. It varied with revs: more revs, higher pitch. There was the same background whine as always that I'm told is the power steering pump on all EZ30 Subarus. But there was also this other "electric" noise as well. And a new sound: the engine sounding like a washing machine on spin cycle. Going by the thread title, that's normal? It wasn't doing it before, though. Anyway every bushing I think is shot in the suspension, I think the dogbone bushings were on their way out when I bought it as well. As I put the lights on the revs dropped but that may just have been it relaxing into lower revs like any car does a minute or 2 after startup. When the AC was on it was too noisy for me to really tell if anything was different listening in the engine bay. I get to borrow a multimeter tomorrow to check the alternator.
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Nov 3, 2020 12:00
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https://www.subaru.com/2022-brz November 18 is the release day for the official info on the 2022 BRZ 
AFewBricksShy fucked around with this message at 19:41 on Nov 4, 2020 |
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Nov 4, 2020 18:56
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simplefish posted:Thanks guys. Update on this: Wasn't able to test yesterday so car has sat 48hrs Didn't come close to starting today. I can't test with a multimeter if the battery is known to be flat and the car won't run to turn the alternator. So let's play "Alternator or battery?"!! You can tell me if I'm making sense or very dense It struggled to start up having sat for 24 hrs. It drove a short distance to the shops where it say 20 mins. It fired right up no problem. If it was the alternator then it should have struggled MORE to start after a very short trip, right? Instead, it started great, but 2 days later... nothing. So the battery held charge for 20 mins but not 2 days. In any case, it WAS charged. Conclusion: alternator ok, battery hosed Right? Supporting thought: Even if I'm wrong and it's the alternator that's shot, lovely alternators kill batteries, right? So I'd need a new battery in either case? Although... lovely batteries kill alternators too, so... maybe I need both in either case? Please help!
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Nov 5, 2020 07:55
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Battery's probably shot, alternator might be. When my alternator was dying I could stave it off for a while by revving a little higher and manually shifting while driving, but eventually it would still poo poo out. Just definitively check the alternator to be sure. It's no bigs to bench test.
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Nov 5, 2020 18:35
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simplefish posted:Electricity If the alternator is dead then it won’t charge when you are driving and won’t stay running. If the battery is dead then it won’t start but once you jump it the alternator will continue to keep the system charged and it will continue to run, then when you shut it off the battery won’t hold a charge and it won’t start. However, what you describe with the car not starting after sitting could be something else. If there is a drain on the electrical system when the car is off, then it will slowly drain the battery until it’s too low to start the car. But when it’s running, the alternator will keep the battery topped up and overcome this drain and it will run fine. Think of the drain like leaving your headlights on...if they are on while you are driving, no problem. If you leave them on with the car off for five minutes, no problem. If you leave them on with the car off for a day, dead battery. To diagnose this you can either take it somewhere that can diagnose a drain (I think autozone will do it for free?), or you can just drive it for a while to charge it, then shut it off and disconnect the battery, let it sit for a couple days, then connect it up again and see if it starts. If no, you have a bad battery (because the battery lost its charge sitting with nothing connected to it). If yes, you have a drain (something in the car drained the battery as it sat). You can start pulling fuses until the drain goes away but you should have a multi meter with current monitoring to check this.
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Nov 5, 2020 20:02
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Battery can also fail by being internally shorted, meaning it's self-discharging all the time and that's why it goes dead between starts but looks perfectly fine even on a load test. I was having to jump my Saturn all the time until I finally looked under the hood and realized the sticker on the battery said it was ten years old.
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Nov 5, 2020 23:26
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Cursed! Ran over a fat screw just 1500 miles into ownership of my 2020 WRX. Too busy panicking about "poo poo gotta buy 4 tires I can't afford now" to think about trying to get it out of the tire before I already had the wheel off the car and the spare at my feet. Thankfully I'm pretty sure it didn't break through, and if it did, it'll be a slow, easy fix (no pressure loss after 80mi. highway trip.) Oh, and a god damned deer ran across my path once back in town. I have spent decades of my life cursing nighttime highway deer. Truly my archenemy.
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Nov 6, 2020 04:40
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Invest in a plug kit and a 12v air compressor. Keep a pair of pliers with those, I usually keep vice-grips around for yanking stuff out of tires. Also a knife or wire cutters to snip off the excess plug. It's been several years since I've had a puncture flat, but I can usually have myself going again in 15-30 minutes. As long as it's not within an inch or so of the shoulder, a plug will be enough to at least limp you out, but probably hold a lot longer. I've had tires I'd plugged at least 3 times. Not ideal, but god drat do they work fine in a pinch, didn't really effect the overall life of the tire. Obviously a plug-patch is better and balancing again would be ideal, but you work with what you can afford and if you're broke, that's a plug kit with a hand reamer and rubber cement. At least then you have something to huff while the compressor takes all day to fill your tire.
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Nov 6, 2020 04:57
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Also know that you can buy shaved tires from Tire Rack. I've done with twice on my WRX now.
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Nov 6, 2020 15:59
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Yeah, I did with my BRZ as well. Not that it was strictly necessary there for diff purposes, but it was just to replace an all season that took sidewall damage that I use during the winter and the others were worn enough. It wasn't worth it to me to replace the whole set since the car sees maybe 200 miles a year on those tires.
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Nov 6, 2020 17:06
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CRUSTY MINGE posted:Invest in a plug kit and a 12v air compressor. Keep a pair of pliers with those, I usually keep vice-grips around for yanking stuff out of tires. Also a knife or wire cutters to snip off the excess plug. Thanks for the tip! I didn't even know 12V compressors existed! I'll absolutely be picking one of those up, along with a roadside kit (accidentally left it in my trade-in.) If it weren't for the crappy little screwdriver Subaru graciously included with the scissor jack, I wouldn't have had anything on hand to pry the screw out. In the event that I don't lose any air over the next week, is a balance still recommended? I did take the wheel off, but just put it right back on instead of the spare, and never lost any air pressure. um excuse me posted:Also know that you can buy shaved tires from Tire Rack. I've done with twice on my WRX now. Also did not know that; that will be greatly appreciated in the event that I need to replace the tire! I doubt it this time, though.
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Nov 6, 2020 17:29
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If it's not losing air don't worry about it at this point. Probably didn't even get to the steel belts.
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Nov 6, 2020 20:23
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