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Attestant posted:Anything I should know about texture paints without a proper texture tool? I got some astrogranite debris, but realized I don't actually have one of the fancy plastic paddles. Basically, will I run in to issues if I just sacrifice a cheap large brush for the job instead? I used to use coffee stirrers but wanted try to stop the "single use" approach. So instead I tried the $5 kids brushes from Ikea and they work remarkably well for that. They're soft enough they don't leave marks, they are very easy to clean, and they come in a pack with different sizes which is useful of course.
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# ? Jun 11, 2024 03:21 |
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Crossposting from the Oath thread:Refind Chaos posted:Oath complete! Rough painting so many in 31 days but I got there and I'm overall happy with the results. Need to figure out how to diffuse my light box though.
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I'm interested in transferring my citadel paints to droppers too but since Canada amazon is labelled differently than American despite selling (probably) the same products, https://www.amazon.ca/gp/product/B07HL26877/ref=crt_ewc_title_dp_1?ie=UTF8&psc=1&smid=ANBPCCFIHH8 would these work?
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Harvey Mantaco posted:It's cheap enough I gave my kid a big thing if it to use in a diorama for grade school. my dad was a skilled tradesman who was certified in multiple fields and had a bachelor's or master's degree? in some engineering field or another, with access to a full machine shop with cnc equipment at work, I don't think there was ever a pinewood derby we didn't win hobby dad is a powerful, powerful ability to have as a child, haha
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Furism posted:I used to use coffee stirrers but wanted try to stop the "single use" approach. So instead I tried the $5 kids brushes from Ikea and they work remarkably well for that. They're soft enough they don't leave marks, they are very easy to clean, and they come in a pack with different sizes which is useful of course. Yeah, I ended up using a cheap dollar store brush, and the results were just fine. ![]()
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In September I decided on a whim to get an Asset Drop box. Finally got the suitably spoopy box done today What I got ![]() What I made ![]() The painting guide had recipes for mixing the minis robe colors with the Instar Alpha paints. That worked all right, but I feel like my mixes were darker. Oh well. The peat husk was nice because the fibrous bits in it kinda felt to me like more dead plant matter for an abandoned cemetery. Might have to get another one some time, I dunno.
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Cthulu Carl posted:In September I decided on a whim to get an Asset Drop box. Are those boxes any good? I really like the idea. Is the overall price (incl. shipping) cheaper than buying everything separately? Their website seems broken at the moment it doesn't show the "past boxes."
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Furism posted:Are those boxes any good? I really like the idea. Is the overall price (incl. shipping) cheaper than buying everything separately? According to the pricelist in the painting guide, everything individually is $35.14 (not including shipping) - including shipping, I paid $34.86. So I guess it's worth it by a little? One thing I do like is that when they announce the month's boxes they give you an idea of what's in it - a silhouette of the mini and a general list of what's in it - and then later in the month they sent my an email with a link to the full contents of the other boxes to sell the others. I feel like the biggest impediment to me getting more boxes more often is the paints - that's gonna add up fast. Probably faster than I have room for.
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yum posted:I'm interested in transferring my citadel paints to droppers too but since Canada amazon is labelled differently than American despite selling (probably) the same products, https://www.amazon.ca/gp/product/B07HL26877/ref=crt_ewc_title_dp_1?ie=UTF8&psc=1&smid=ANBPCCFIHH8 would these work? Should be fine yeah, there’s always a modicum of risk taking with this stuff on Amazon but returns are easy enough. I bought a set of Amazon Canada a while back that work well but I misread the size so they’re comically large (30ml), different brand/seller but look identical.
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After 5 years off, I finally painted some miniatures recently. I had moved into a house from my tiny apartment, living with another pserson, have pets, just lost my motivation. I feel like my photo taking skills suffered as much as my painting, I can't get anything in focus to save my life.![]() ![]() ![]() ![]() ![]() ![]() This guy was actually my first mini after the layoff. I kept on meaning to get going with an entry into Reaper's quarterly painting contest on their Facebook group, after not doing that for over a year, I finally dug in with this one. I felt the rust big time painting this, but the chibi Halloween figures when a little better. ![]() ![]() Hopefully this will get me going to keep painting this and that every month. Bachtere fucked around with this message at 23:47 on Oct 31, 2020 |
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Koopa Kid posted:Should be fine yeah, there’s always a modicum of risk taking with this stuff on Amazon but returns are easy enough. I bought a set of Amazon Canada a while back that work well but I misread the size so they’re comically large (30ml), different brand/seller but look identical. Thanks! Gonna pull the trigger then.
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I'm not sure if this is the right place for it or not, but I finished up some wood-patterned dungeon floor tiles.![]() ![]()
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PoptartsNinja posted:I'm not sure if this is the right place for it or not, but I finished up some wood-patterned dungeon floor tiles. Never post this here again. Umm actually it owns OP and you should post more.
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PoptartsNinja posted:I'm not sure if this is the right place for it or not, but I finished up some wood-patterned dungeon floor tiles. Also check out the Terrain Thread cuz that's good stuff that will help that thread move. More content is always good.
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I like those chibis, they're pretty fun looking.
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Any tips on a wash for white armor? I'm trying to do something like this:![]() Agrax Earthshade is definitely not subtle enough.
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Mirthless posted:Any tips on a wash for white armor? I'm trying to do something like this: I would say seraphim sepia, thinned if necessary.
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GuardianOfAsgaard posted:I would say seraphim sepia, thinned if necessary. Maybe even applied with a sponge
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I'll have a chance to drop by the hobby store this afternoon so I'll pick some of that up and see how it goes. Thanks!
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Mirthless posted:Any tips on a wash for white armor? I'm trying to do something like this: Maybe try the Parchment wash from Secret Weapon? http://www.secretweaponminiatures.com/index.php?main_page=index&cPath=54
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Spanish Manlove posted:Maybe even applied with a sponge you could also give the model a gloss varnish first to help the wash find the recesses
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Mirthless posted:Any tips on a wash for white armor? I'm trying to do something like this:
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Electric Hobo posted:I've used Army Painter Soft Tone to good effect for ny Stormcasts' white armor. I've posted them in the thread a while ago, so you can see if it gives a result that you like. This looks good. I have some soft tone and I'm not quite getting the finish I want but I'm close and I think I can get there if I play with it for a bit. Thanks!
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Mirthless posted:Any tips on a wash for white armor? I'm trying to do something like this: Base with Wraithbone, then Skeleton Horde contrast loaded with a lot of contrast medium. Highlight up to white
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xpost from the 41st millennium Finished the Judiciar last week but didn't get the photos done right away. Decided to keep more in line with the lore and do the armor black, but went dark on the skull helm and go with my chapter red for the coat. I decided to try something a little different with the edge highlights on the black, but not sure if its too light. ![]() ![]() ![]()
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So I am working on this Creature Caster model, and while it's one of the few they have that isn't just a titty demon, it's still got one part I am not super happy with. I bluetac'd the pieces on to show how it's supposed to look, but essentially that giant phallic horn/tongue thing I just don't like at all. It's just... too big. So the question is, what do people think would be the best way to cover up that gap between the skirt piece and his stomach, and what if anything should I do about the blank space that will be left behind at the top of the skirt? I could just greenstuff in a tiny bit at the top, but I was hoping someone would have a better idea. Warning I am not an expert at sculpting, but I am willing to give anything a try! ![]() ![]() This thing has been a massive project though, slowly getting there but there's endless work to be done on it.
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Two Beans posted:Base with Wraithbone, then Skeleton Horde contrast loaded with a lot of contrast medium. Highlight up to white Corax White -> Apothecary White -> White Scar maybe.
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Cinara posted:So I am working on this Creature Caster model, and while it's one of the few they have that isn't just a titty demon, it's still got one part I am not super happy with. I bluetac'd the pieces on to show how it's supposed to look, but essentially that giant phallic horn/tongue thing I just don't like at all. It's just... too big. I'd consider cutting the tongue off and just having it an open screaming mouth/beltbuckle? Some careful carving and sanding, maybe a little greenstuff and it would be fine?
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jassi007 posted:I'd consider cutting the tongue off and just having it an open screaming mouth/beltbuckle? Some careful carving and sanding, maybe a little greenstuff and it would be fine? I was going to recommend the same thing. At least start from there, if you were originally thinking to ditch the belt buckle all together.
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Do you have any leftover bits you could use as a big Texas sized belt buckle? Maybe the embossing on a shield that could be cut out to a more appropriate size.
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Work in progress but wanted to show off this bad boy 3d printers are fuckin dope ![]() Also do a big Texas belt buckle on that demon. w00tmonger fucked around with this message at 05:42 on Nov 2, 2020 |
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nostrata posted:Do you have any leftover bits you could use as a big Texas sized belt buckle? Maybe the embossing on a shield that could be cut out to a more appropriate size. Yeah or maybe one of the skulls from the warhammer skulls box.
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Speaking of 3D printers, does anyone have any good recommendations for one? I'd mostly be using mine to print out miniatures and bitz (surprisingly) if that makes any difference.
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Der Shovel posted:Speaking of 3D printers, does anyone have any good recommendations for one? I'd mostly be using mine to print out miniatures and bitz (surprisingly) if that makes any difference. Elagoo mars or anycubic photon. cheap/good
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I speedpainted Envy for an upcoming Malifaux game. Hopefully he'll kill many, many demons.![]() ![]()
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Der Shovel posted:Speaking of 3D printers, does anyone have any good recommendations for one? I'd mostly be using mine to print out miniatures and bitz (surprisingly) if that makes any difference. I did some digging in the past and my understanding of the situation is the following: For miniature painting you probably want a resin-based 3D printer. The prints need less cleaning than with a filament based printer and they'll just look better. The downside is you're working with dangerous chemicals you're not supposed to dispose of by draining them into the drain so I'm not sure how much of a pain in the rear end it is, logistically, day-to-day. For decors filament based seem to work just fine as long as the models are not too "organic" (ie: a wall or farm will look great, a disgusting blob of flesh won't). They are also perfect if you need to print spare or custom parts (not only for modelling). In the end I gave up because I'd need both types and I don't have space for even just one.
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I've had good experiences with my Elegoo Mars Pro (Resin printer). I'm not sure the activated carbon filters are hugely beneficial. From what I've heard the Anycubic models are pretty comparable, and there's a new competitor out through Creatality that's also pretty comparable. From what I've seen about it on youtube the grooves on the build plate are very deep which helps prevent print failures. I can only speak firsthand about the Elegoo Mars, but my only complaint about it is that the rubber O-ring around the removable UV light shield falls off too easily. It'd be worth looking up a few youtube videos discussing them. Brent w/ Goobertown Hobbies had an Elegoo vs. Anycubic test that sold me on the Elegoo being comparable with the Anycubic model despite being cheaper; and Creatality gave him one of their 3D printers so he's got a review of it as well. PoptartsNinja fucked around with this message at 15:20 on Nov 2, 2020 |
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Fingat posted:xpost from the 41st millennium i blew my top over this in the other thread but seriously this is incredible and I hope I am this good someday, WOW. I absolutely love your shading style
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Electric Hobo posted:I speedpainted Envy for an upcoming Malifaux game. Hopefully he'll kill many, many demons. Looks great Malifaux has a lotta balls constantly giving you bases the models dont actually fit on
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# ? Jun 11, 2024 03:21 |
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Der Shovel posted:Speaking of 3D printers, does anyone have any good recommendations for one? I'd mostly be using mine to print out miniatures and bitz (surprisingly) if that makes any difference. I have a Ender 3 Pro (filament) printer and an Anycubic Photon (resin). They're awesome and awful. I'd take the Elegoo Mars Pro if you can. it has a bunch of little nice to haves over Anycubic. Just make sure that you really understand what you are getting into. 3d printing is 70's home computing, fiddly and difficult and really for entertaining people who love to tinker.
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