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Motronic posted:What about one of the fancy fans that turns itself on with a motion sensor for X minutes and also has a humidity sensor? If that would work for you all you need is hot/neutral/ground up there. Forget the switch. Those loving suck and like to randomly turn on for no reason!!! And they're not really fancy, the only reason they exist is because California code said they were required in for new/remodeled bathrooms. That's why I have them in my house  .
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Oct 30, 2020 22:30
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ntan1 posted:Those loving suck and like to randomly turn on for no reason!!! Oh well that's disappointing because it sure seems like a really easy thing for a reno fan.
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Oct 30, 2020 22:49
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DrBouvenstein posted:I am planning on doing an almost full* bathroom reno in the spring, which will include removing all existing drywall, so I will install an outlet then when the walls are all open and it's easy to run a line, and probably re-locate the light switches as well. Literally the same on the bolded part, everything must go besides the almost brand new acrylic shower enclosure. My bathroom doesn't currently have an exhaust fan either. Posting just to ask: why not wait to install the fan when you've got all the drywall off? Just seems like less of a pain in the rear end for running cable.
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Oct 30, 2020 22:56
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Motronic posted:What about one of the fancy fans that turns itself on with a motion sensor for X minutes and also has a humidity sensor? If that would work for you all you need is hot/neutral/ground up there. Forget the switch. ntan1 posted:Those loving suck and like to randomly turn on for no reason!!! Well, I actually looked at that and was in Home Depot on the way back from work and got a different one that's kind of a hybrid...it might suck, I don't know, reviews were mostly positive. It's hardwired, so all I have to do is splice into the existing wire in the attic, no fishing anything, and is entirely controlled by a remote and/or app. The remote fits into a standard single gang slot, wireless so I don't have to power it or fish or pigtail anything. I can easily keep the remote here and it looks like a regular switch. Just remove the old switch and box and install a double gang old work one. I looked at my existing metal box and it doesn't look like the kind I can just expand, so remove and replace it is. Sirotan posted:Literally the same on the bolded part, everything must go besides the almost brand new acrylic shower enclosure. My bathroom doesn't currently have an exhaust fan either. Posting just to ask: why not wait to install the fan when you've got all the drywall off? Just seems like less of a pain in the rear end for running cable Mostly because I won't be doing the bathroom renovation until spring. I went all last winter without an exhaust fan, and even with the bathroom window all the way open there would be tons of moisture and condensation in the whole house, just buckets of water stuck in the insides of windows. Some days when it wasn't complete balls-rear end cold (not many in northern New England,) I'd open the bathroom door and the bedroom door across the hall and open all the windows in that room to get a cross breeze, it worked a little better but really not worth the deep chill it imposed on the rest of the house. DrBouvenstein fucked around with this message at 23:53 on Oct 30, 2020 |
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Oct 30, 2020 23:40
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existing 100amp sub panel, now with 24000w heater. Needs a new feed, correct? For 80%? So #2 copper or 1/0 aluminum.
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Nov 3, 2020 02:30
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24000 watt heater? As in 100 amps? You need at least a 125 amp panel to begin with. You should never run equipment that is literally rated 100% of the over current protection, you could easily be over 100 by a few amps, which means above the rating of the breaker and possibly the buss bars. Why are you running the heater from a sub panel and not a 125 amp breaker in the main panel? You're not running anything else off the sub panel, right? But yes, #2 or 1/0 would be appropriate. Elviscat fucked around with this message at 03:30 on Nov 3, 2020 |
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Nov 3, 2020 03:02
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Ferrule posted:existing 100amp sub panel, now with 24000w heater. Needs a new feed, correct? For 80%? So #2 copper or 1/0 aluminum. 24kw is that whole panel as a single circuit unless you have 3 phase 208v or something.
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Nov 3, 2020 03:08
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Sub panel was set up before me - 100amp off one of the mains. (2 m bins, each 200amp). Homeowner wants a bunch of heaters installed, each is 6000w. Just trying to tell him I'd need to change that sub panel feed and breaker.
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Nov 3, 2020 13:38
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Ferrule posted:Sub panel was set up before me - 100amp off one of the mains. (2 m bins, each 200amp). If you're doing this professionally and need to ask that here, I don't know what to say. The ratings on panels are clear, follow the code.
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Nov 3, 2020 14:12
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How annoyed is an electrician gonna be if I have them come in to just connect the circuit breaker for a circuit I already put in myself? I mostly don’t wanna deal with getting it down inside the wall into the breaker box from the attic. Everything else is wired correctly.
devmd01 fucked around with this message at 14:55 on Nov 3, 2020 |
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Nov 3, 2020 14:29
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Probably not very annoyed, probably gonna charge you a bunch of money, they'll also want to do a 100% inspection of the wiring you ran, since as soon as they touch that circuit the liability is on their bond and insurance.Ferrule posted:Sub panel was set up before me - 100amp off one of the mains. (2 m bins, each 200amp). That is a gently caress ton of heat, I'm assuming this is a very large house with electric only heat? Are these heaters replacing an electric furnace? If not have you re-done the load calculations for the panel these are off of? Because 24kw could put that panel over.
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Nov 3, 2020 17:04
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Ferrule posted:Sub panel was set up before me - 100amp off one of the mains. (2 m bins, each 200amp). Oh I remember this client of yours. Congrats on the upsell. I was assuming this was some monster instant hot water heater. How much "this is an absurd waste of resources" tax are you charging?
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Nov 3, 2020 17:10
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Elviscat posted:That is a gently caress ton of heat, I'm assuming this is a very large house with electric only heat? Are these heaters replacing an electric furnace? If not have you re-done the load calculations for the panel these are off of? Because 24kw could put that panel over. if I recall they are working to be better than the other neighbor and have the same number or more outdoor heaters than lesser people in the neighborhood.
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Nov 3, 2020 17:19
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loving hell 24kw in electric heat. And this is outdoor isn't it? 
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Nov 3, 2020 17:21
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Someone is paying you to be able to heat the outside? My dad is spinning in his grave.
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Nov 3, 2020 19:54
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The saga continues. I've now checked 4 hardware stores including a local set-up and no single-pole toggle switch has a ground screw. Small improvement: the local place at least has the hole for the screw still there. Amazon will only sell me a 10-pack at 15 bucks, or one for 7.50. I just need two. Besides, all the websites show grounded switches but when you get there, nothing. I'm not even sure I'll get what I need on the 'zon. I've tried salvaging ground screws but if I try to drive it in it strips the threads right off. Current plan: just tie a loving ground wire to the hole. Jenkl fucked around with this message at 20:55 on Nov 3, 2020 |
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Nov 3, 2020 20:53
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BonerGhost posted:Someone is paying you to be able to heat the outside? they also have installed an industrial-sized air curtain over the patio door. I have no idea what this guy is doing on his patio. I know the gc has no clue what he's doing. I haven't been back on site in months and they just called me about this nonsense so to answer this helpful tip sharkytm posted:If you're doing this professionally and need to ask that here, I don't know what to say. The ratings on panels are clear, follow the code. I'm trying to remember what's in the panel/what it's rated/going by what the gc has told me. I haven't been back. Frankly I don't want to go back because this place is a drat nightmare.
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Nov 3, 2020 22:05
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Jenkl posted:The saga continues. Can you order on USA Amazon and have them ship it to Canada? 10 Pack Leviton-1451-2WM-Single-Pole-Residential-Grounding
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Nov 3, 2020 23:01
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Hey there, I was wondering if I could get some feedback before calling an electrician to know what I'm getting into. My basement ceiling (unfinished thankfully) has the following linked wiring: ---->----L1----->----O----->-----L2---->----L3 L1, 2 &3 are lights with pull cords, and O is an outlet that the hot water heater is plugged into. L3 is where the wiring ends. Last week the outlet to the hot water heater lost power and L2/3 would not turn on. After a short time leaving the heater unplugged it would work for a couple minutes before losing power again. With nothing plugged in the outlet the lights would work for roughly an hour before going out. For the entire time L1 is working normally. Switching L1 on and off a couple times when the other lights aren't working will cause them to flash and resume working. Is this a short in the outlet, or a loose wire barely making a circuit that expands as it heats up? Having no luck finding anything online elsewhere to explain this. Thanks.
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Nov 4, 2020 02:54
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What country do you live in? How big is that water heater? I'd suspect a bad splice in the junction box behind L1 or O based on the information provided, a short circuit would trip the breaker, so it's probably an intermittent open.
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Nov 4, 2020 04:16
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Elviscat posted:What country do you live in? I'm in Canada. Currently the water heater (189 litre/50 gal) is plugged into an outlet on a separate breaker and is working fine.
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Nov 4, 2020 04:30
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Knuckle Sammich posted:I'm in Canada. Currently the water heater (189 litre/50 gal) is plugged into an outlet on a separate breaker and is working fine. I would pop open that outlet box and see what you have going on. Kill the breaker and make sure L1 goes from illuminated to off with the breaker throw if you don't have a voltage pen. If that all looks good try the light. Take some pictures, bring a flashlight.
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Nov 4, 2020 05:05
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H110Hawk posted:I would pop open that outlet box and see what you have going on. Kill the breaker and make sure L1 goes from illuminated to off with the breaker throw if you don't have a voltage pen. If that all looks good try the light. I will try to do this tomorrow night, though I would be more comfortable having some natural light so I might wait till the weekend when I can do it during the day. Thanks for the help.
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Nov 4, 2020 05:32
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Knuckle Sammich posted:I will try to do this tomorrow night, though I would be more comfortable having some natural light so I might wait till the weekend when I can do it during the day. If you're feeling frisky, once you have the cover off unscrew the 2 screws holding the outlet in place and pull it out, letting it hang by the wires. It might be immediately apparent what is wrong if a wire just falls out of a backstab. Dust is normal, black scorch marks are not. Take a picture or 3 showing clearly, in focus, the two sides of the outlet and into the box. If it's in one of the two boxes (L1, Outlet) the parts to fix it are probably <= $5.
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Nov 4, 2020 06:57
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Knuckle Sammich posted:I'm in Canada. Currently the water heater (189 litre/50 gal) is plugged into an outlet on a separate breaker and is working fine. Wait, if the water heater is on a separate breaker, what's plugged into O? A small "on demand water heater?
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Nov 4, 2020 07:13
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So all the electrical switches in my house are toggle switches, and are getting kind of worn out, so I was thinking of replacing some or most of them with Decora (rocker) switches. However, the switch for my garbage disposal is also a regular toggle switch, and thinking back I don't recall ever having seen a garbage disposal switch be a Decora switch. Am I imagining this? Is there some reason why a garbage disposal switch should be a toggle switch? 
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Nov 4, 2020 09:35
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floWenoL posted:So all the electrical switches in my house are toggle switches, and are getting kind of worn out, so I was thinking of replacing some or most of them with Decora (rocker) switches. However, the switch for my garbage disposal is also a regular toggle switch, and thinking back I don't recall ever having seen a garbage disposal switch be a Decora switch. Unless you have a monster disposal, there's no difference between decora and regular toggles. If it uses a regular toggle, you can swap it, if it uses a motor starting switch, you'll need to match the ratings. Pull the existing switch and see what it says for a rating, how many poles it has, etc. 99% chance it's a regular 15a or 20a SPST toggle, add you can change it over. Just match the rating.
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Nov 4, 2020 12:57
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Having it be a toggle switch does have the advantage that it's much more difficult to accidentally bump it and turn on your disposal, though.
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Nov 4, 2020 13:02
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Elviscat posted:Wait, if the water heater is on a separate breaker, what's plugged into O? A small "on demand water heater? Sorry, meant that I had to disconnect the heater from the outlet causing problems and use a different outlet on a different breaker so that I can have hot water.
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Nov 4, 2020 15:05
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floWenoL posted:So all the electrical switches in my house are toggle switches, and are getting kind of worn out, so I was thinking of replacing some or most of them with Decora (rocker) switches. However, the switch for my garbage disposal is also a regular toggle switch, and thinking back I don't recall ever having seen a garbage disposal switch be a Decora switch. I've seen plenty of disposals on Decora switches. If some sort of fancy toggle is used, you'll know, because it will be much "chunkier" than any other toggle in your house.
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Nov 4, 2020 16:22
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Elviscat posted:I've seen plenty of disposals on Decora switches. Our is on a single gang double switch Decora rocker. Gives it a left/right throw and a fun surprise if you think you're turning on the light and miss.
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Nov 4, 2020 17:10
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Is it any kind of problem to use 14/3 where only 14/2 is needed? Just a standard receptacle, capping off the unused red? Purely a matter of not wanting to buy more wire for the extra outlet inspector wanted.
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Nov 4, 2020 17:25
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Jenkl posted:Is it any kind of problem to use 14/3 where only 14/2 is needed? Just a standard receptacle, capping off the unused red? No problem. Cap it.
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Nov 4, 2020 17:40
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sharkytm posted:Unless you have a monster disposal, there's no difference between decora and regular toggles. ... Just match the rating. Elviscat posted:I've seen plenty of disposals on Decora switches. Nevets posted:Having it be a toggle switch does have the advantage that it's much more difficult to accidentally bump it and turn on your disposal, though. H110Hawk posted:Our is on a single gang double switch Decora rocker. Gives it a left/right throw and a fun surprise if you think you're turning on the light and miss. Thanks all! Sounds like I _could_ convert it to decora, but perhaps it would be slightly safer to keep it as a toggle.
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Nov 4, 2020 18:18
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floWenoL posted:Thanks all! Sounds like I _could_ convert it to decora, but perhaps it would be slightly safer to keep it as a toggle. What would be even safer than that would be to install a proper air switch. It boggles the mind how disposals are still being wired up to wall switches, and even worse, switches inside sink cabinets.
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Nov 4, 2020 18:44
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Does the air switch force you to hold it down to operate the disposal?
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Nov 4, 2020 21:57
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BonerGhost posted:Does the air switch force you to hold it down to operate the disposal? They are typically latching switches. So you press it once and the disposal is on, press it again to turn it off.
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Nov 4, 2020 22:17
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What's safer about that? Just no electrical current at the switch? My kitchen wiring is at a stage where changes are still easy. I was going to wire the cabinet receptacle to a decora rocker. I don't like the idea of a hard wired disposal, I prefer to be able to just unplug it if I need to do anything to it.
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Nov 4, 2020 22:27
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Those air switches are like RIGHT on the sink. You don't want that to be electrified unless it's in an expensive water-tight enclosure.
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Nov 4, 2020 22:36
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BonerGhost posted:What's safer about that? Just no electrical current at the switch? Yes. BonerGhost posted:My kitchen wiring is at a stage where changes are still easy. I was going to wire the cabinet receptacle to a decora rocker. I don't like the idea of a hard wired disposal, I prefer to be able to just unplug it if I need to do anything to it. Good news, that's exactly how they work. It's a switch that requires no hard wiring at all. You plug the control box part into an outlet, and plus the disposal into the outlet on the control box.
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Nov 4, 2020 22:44
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