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So I found this on Chilton's. You can at least pull codes with an analog multimeter/voltmeter using the underhood connectors, to see if the ECU knows about anything, while you try to get the check engine light sorted out.Chiltons posted:In the absence of a scan tool, an analog voltmeter may be used to retrieve stored fault codes. Set the meter range to read DC 0–15 volts. Connect the + lead of the meter to the battery positive terminal and connect the − lead of the meter to the self-test output pin of the diagnostic connector.  The self test input connector is a single wire with a gray plug that should be under the same cover as the diagnostic connector. You'd be jumping the same wires to get the dash light to flash codes out. And you absolutely need an analog voltmeter/multimeter for that, without spending a small fortune you won't get a digital one that can react fast enough. In theory, if you can't get the bulb in the dash to work, you could probably wire ignition positive to one lead of a bulb, shove it in the dash, and wire the other wire from the bulb to the connector where you'd connect the multimeter's negative lead. That's very much a hack and I have no idea if that'd wind up frying the ECU after awhile or not, and it may piss off your smog tech. I haven't dug through any wiring diagrams yet, but I do have access to the Chilton's manual via my library (if you have a library card, you may have access to it as well).
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Nov 1, 2020 14:50
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Ethics_Gradient posted:Ah nice, I do see those available for AU$36 or so new, so hopefully wrecker won't be too dear. (I wouldn't mind paying for the new one, but waiting for it to get here isn't ideal). If you buy a yard part: at the very least, get a wheel cylinder rebuild kit and pick up a drill-driven cylinder hone (although you may not need it). You can take your chances if the one you get was not leaking (it'll be obvious). You should be able to just bleed the replacement cylinder after installation. However, this would be an excellent time to bleed all four corners and replace your old fluid with new (which you should do every 2-3 years anyway, since brake fluid absorbs water from the atmosphere). I understand your reluctance to do the other 3 since the bleeder screws may likewise snap off. In such case, consider hosing them down with penetrating oil several times, then attacking the job when you have a fighting chance to crack them open intact. If you do all four, start at the wheel furthest from the master and work your way to the closest.
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Nov 1, 2020 16:36
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^^^ What he said, but also, if you do choose to bleed all four wheels, pick up some new bleeder screws and replace the old ones. For how cheap new screws are, you might as well.
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Nov 1, 2020 17:56
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PainterofCrap posted:If you buy a yard part: at the very least, get a wheel cylinder rebuild kit and pick up a drill-driven cylinder hone (although you may not need it). You can take your chances if the one you get was not leaking (it'll be obvious). Oh not at all - the full bleed was what I was in the middle of doing (first wheel went fine) when it snapped off. Front driver's side brake was starting to drag a bit and it's probably been 4+ years since it was done, so I was going to do a full bleed + replace the pads - have done the operation on my motorbike but was my first time with a car. wesleywillis posted:^^^ What he said, but also, if you do choose to bleed all four wheels, pick up some new bleeder screws and replace the old ones. For how cheap new screws are, you might as well. Will look into that!
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Nov 1, 2020 20:57
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STR posted:So I found this on Chilton's. You can at least pull codes with an analog multimeter/voltmeter using the underhood connectors, to see if the ECU knows about anything, while you try to get the check engine light sorted out. Yes, looks like I can do the same procedure with a test light as well, which I do have handy. Thanks for looking that up. It also looks like I can pick up a Ford EEC-IV compatible scan tool for as low as 30 bucks, does this sound reasonable? My $20 Amazon special OBD-II tool worked well enough on my previous truck and a couple other vehicles. An outfit called Bishko looks to be selling a two-volume reprint of the factory manual for 1987 F-series trucks for about $120. I can afford that this paycheck, so I'm probably going to grab it. Theoretically, it should give me precise locations for all the ground points on the chassis, right? Also, the truck won't start at all now that I have both wiring harnesses unplugged from the instrument cluster. The right-side harness appears to control indicator lights for ABS, 4x4, and low-range. I'm guessing maybe the ABS light could be what's holding things up? This truck apparently is supposed to have rear ABS. And you previously said that my alternator won't operate with the alternator light shorted out or disconnected, might that extend to starting as well? One of the forums linked earlier indicated that the alternator light was a special socket with what looked like a small capacitor in the back, I had better double check that. It was definitely a white socket, while all the others were black. If this goes much further, I think I will start a project thread. The big problem is, my phone's camera is currently crapped out... and I was waiting to be done with this truck to buy a new phone! Oh well. But I am toying with the idea of getting in contact with a CA emissions referee to hash this out. If it comes to that, then that's automotively insane enough that it probably deserves a thread to itself. 
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Nov 3, 2020 03:28
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05 Escape Heli-coil is holding so far. And vroom, new spark plugs added some power back. Adjusted and bled the brakes (put in two brake cylinders on the drums). Brake is just not stiff like a newer car though and it hasn't been for a long time. Do I need a new brake booster? It's just annoying it's not crisp. What else could it be? I adjusted the drums Sunday so it's slightly dragging but it's still not crisp. And don't have anywhere else to post this, so here's a V6 '05 Escape with 150k with the front valve cover off: 
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Nov 3, 2020 04:42
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unbuttonedclone posted:05 Escape I don't think those spark plugs are OEM.
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Nov 3, 2020 04:47
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What is the coolest car
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Nov 3, 2020 11:48
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goblin week posted:What is the coolest car Whichever car you happen to be driving at the time.
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Nov 3, 2020 12:29
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istewart posted:Yes, looks like I can do the same procedure with a test light as well, which I do have handy. Thanks for looking that up. It also looks like I can pick up a Ford EEC-IV compatible scan tool for as low as 30 bucks, does this sound reasonable? My $20 Amazon special OBD-II tool worked well enough on my previous truck and a couple other vehicles. It should, yes. Check your library to see if they offer online service manuals though - Chilton's online stuff is often scans of the original factory manual. No clue why it won't start with the cluster disconnected. Did you happen to knock the skinny wire off of the starter solenoid? It'll be on the fender by the battery. unbuttonedclone posted:And don't have anywhere else to post this, so here's a V6 '05 Escape with 150k with the front valve cover off: Hol' up. What's that belt from the cam driving? Balance shaft or something else?
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Nov 3, 2020 13:53
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^^ guessing: water pump ^^goblin week posted:What is the coolest car Mine, next month, at 4AM. While I dream of remote-start capability
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Nov 3, 2020 15:05
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istewart posted:Yes, looks like I can do the same procedure with a test light as well, which I do have handy. Thanks for looking that up. It also looks like I can pick up a Ford EEC-IV compatible scan tool for as low as 30 bucks, does this sound reasonable? My $20 Amazon special OBD-II tool worked well enough on my previous truck and a couple other vehicles. Yeah. I bought one that is basically a gloried blinking light many years ago. It's an equus which is basically the same thing as the yellow and black one on amazon without the LCD. Will say it weighs more than I expected for something so simple.
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Nov 3, 2020 21:10
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C-Bangin' it 
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STR posted:
I will have to check that as well. One other thing I didn't mention is that there is some kind of security switch on the bottom of the steering column, a round button I have to push to the right in order to pull the key out when the ignition is in the off position. However, since I pulled the covers off the steering column to get at the instrument cluster screws, that switch has been floating freely and I can pull the key in and out at will. Maybe that's it too?
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Nov 3, 2020 21:56
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Anyone had a vehicle Waxoyl undercoated? A shop near me has recently started offering it, and I was thinking of having my truck done with that stuff this year instead of the regular annual fluid filming. It's devilishly expensive, but allegedly it's a lifetime product, which is probably a stretch, but if it's effective for at least several years I'd come out ahead on cost. I live with heavy road salt applications, so some form of protection is pretty much mandatory.
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Nov 3, 2020 23:37
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istewart posted:I will have to check that as well. One other thing I didn't mention is that there is some kind of security switch on the bottom of the steering column, a round button I have to push to the right in order to pull the key out when the ignition is in the off position. However, since I pulled the covers off the steering column to get at the instrument cluster screws, that switch has been floating freely and I can pull the key in and out at will. Maybe that's it too? Nothing to add except I forgot about that pain in the rear end button thing.
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Nov 3, 2020 23:39
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Uncle Lloyd posted:Anyone had a vehicle Waxoyl undercoated? A shop near me has recently started offering it, and I was thinking of having my truck done with that stuff this year instead of the regular annual fluid filming. It's devilishly expensive, but allegedly it's a lifetime product, which is probably a stretch, but if it's effective for at least several years I'd come out ahead on cost. I live with heavy road salt applications, so some form of protection is pretty much mandatory. Very popular in Rover circles. Works great, needs occasional touch up, but it's basically a heated bucket of cosmoline being sprayed on the undercarriage. I'd suggest you do everything you want to get done under there first. Also, it will smell like a refinery for a couple weeks.
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Nov 4, 2020 00:13
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Uncle Lloyd posted:Anyone had a vehicle Waxoyl undercoated? A shop near me has recently started offering it, and I was thinking of having my truck done with that stuff this year instead of the regular annual fluid filming. It's devilishly expensive, but allegedly it's a lifetime product, which is probably a stretch, but if it's effective for at least several years I'd come out ahead on cost. I live with heavy road salt applications, so some form of protection is pretty much mandatory. Obviously not 1:1, but I have little trouble believing it to be very durable.
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Nov 4, 2020 03:09
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'97 VW Polo 1.4. Family member borrowed it, drove through a sizeable puddle and it died, but they managed to fire it up again and limp it home. I left it to dry out for a few days, it fired up first time, I drove it around the block and it died again and just cranks and refuses to start ever since. It's weird because all the ignition stuff and electronics are on the side of the car that remained dry. The only electrical item on the side that got wet is the alternator. Any thoughts on what the problem could be?
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Nov 4, 2020 13:54
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I'm having trouble finding a replacement trunk liner for my 2011 Chevrolet Cruze. I found a part number for the part that covers the empty well for the spare tire (94521930) with which I can find a diagram that includes all parts that I'd want to replace, but I don't know how those single-digit numbers correspond to the presumably 8-digit part number I'd need.
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Nov 4, 2020 16:38
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Got two stupid questions: 1) If I buy a car that has factory keyless entry but not remote start, are there any aftermarket products that will add remote start but that will have everything on one fob? 2) Is there some way to fix the lag on some stereo systems where pressing play on a Bluetooth-connected phone has a 2 or 3 second lag before audio starts playing on the stereo? It's happening on my 2011 Subaru Legacy and just happened on a 2018 Acura TLX I just test-drove, but my wife's 2011 Nissan Leaf doesn't have any noticeable lag. Same phone for all three instances.
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Nov 4, 2020 20:58
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MJP posted:Got two stupid questions: Yes. Not without replacing the head unit/stereo.
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Nov 4, 2020 21:50
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It depends on the phone / car. Bluetooth is kind of buggy and implementations vary. Subaru's head units are the least liked things about their cars, generally. My 2020 Impreza works fine, but I have an iPhone. I haven't hooked it up with an Android yet.
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Nov 4, 2020 22:11
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how hard/expensive is it to put in remote start anyways? i got a 90's honda, with how easy to steal they're supposed to be you'd think it would be pretty simple
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Nov 4, 2020 22:15
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owlhawk911 posted:how hard/expensive is it to put in remote start anyways? i got a 90's honda, with how easy to steal they're supposed to be you'd think it would be pretty simple Fairly easy on a 90s honda mostly because there's not security stuff to bypass IIRC. But it's still a ton of wiring and if you want it to be reliable you need to do it right.
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Nov 4, 2020 22:18
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Those aftermarket remote start thingies are a surefire way to get intermittent electrical issues in your ignition circuit.
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Nov 4, 2020 22:18
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Hi pals! I bought another 2005 Celica after my last one got fuckin obliterated, and it came with a set of winter tires on rims. However, when I went to have them put on the shop said they need a different type of lugnut, the factory ones currently on it are "tapered" and won't fit. I'm just trying to shop for them now and am wondering if there is a specific way or keyword to tell what ones I DO want? I'm dumb as poo poo about this kind of thing, thanks for any help.
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Nov 5, 2020 00:08
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hooah posted:I'm having trouble finding a replacement trunk liner for my 2011 Chevrolet Cruze. I found a part number for the part that covers the empty well for the spare tire (94521930) with which I can find a diagram that includes all parts that I'd want to replace, but I don't know how those single-digit numbers correspond to the presumably 8-digit part number I'd need. I picked LT trim so ymmv. https://www.gmpartsdirect.com/v-2011-chevrolet-cruze--lt--1-4l-l4-gas/body--interior-trim-rear-body https://www.gmpartsdirect.com/v-2011-chevrolet-cruze--lt--1-4l-l4-gas/body--interior-trim-trunk
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Nov 5, 2020 01:08
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Grakkus posted:'97 VW Polo 1.4. Family member borrowed it, drove through a sizeable puddle and it died, but they managed to fire it up again and limp it home. I left it to dry out for a few days, it fired up first time, I drove it around the block and it died again and just cranks and refuses to start ever since. It's weird because all the ignition stuff and electronics are on the side of the car that remained dry. The only electrical item on the side that got wet is the alternator. Any thoughts on what the problem could be? How's the battery? I would guess if it cranked up but then is dying while you are driving around, the alternator got too wet and isn't working. Charge up the battery if it isn't too old, and then either test the voltage with the engine running (should be around 13-14 volts if your alternator is working right) or take it in to get the alternator tested. If your battery has good voltage, then you've got another issue, and I've got no ideas on that!
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Nov 5, 2020 01:26
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Can someone point me in the direction of instructions to do the ignition timing on a 1995 Rav4? The manual I have omits this, and I can't seem to find instructions online. When I got it, I was sure the timing was wrong, especially given the way the engine would rattle if I accidentally took the revs too low under load like turning at an intersection. A year or two back I replaced the distributor O ring and tried to put the distributor as close to its previous position as I could. The rattle mostly went away so I guess I gave it a touch less advance than before. The engine was also a little quieter. Less loud is probably a better description. I still feel the timing out by a bit though because it still has that eager to rev sound and the blowby is pretty bad.
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Nov 5, 2020 02:54
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Colostomy Bag posted:I picked LT trim so ymmv. Lol it's ~$270 for the karts I need, but $1,000 for shipping. I guess my car's just going to have a faint odor of turpentine forever, then.
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Nov 5, 2020 03:07
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hooah posted:Lol it's ~$270 for the karts I need, but $1,000 for shipping. I guess my car's just going to have a faint odor of turpentine forever, then. I feel your pain, there's a set of ridiculous louvers I want for my Celica but the shipping far outweighs the cost.
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Nov 5, 2020 04:02
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SilvergunSuperman posted:I feel your pain, there's a set of ridiculous louvers I want for my Celica but the shipping far outweighs the cost. edit: wow it exists https://midshipgarage.com/products/toyota-celica-zzt-rear-window-louver?variant=31788906184809 people who manufacture louvers take the absolute goddamn worst pictures. Cage fucked around with this message at 04:42 on Nov 5, 2020 |
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Nov 5, 2020 04:32
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Crossposting here:simplefish posted:Thanks guys. Update on this: Wasn't able to test yesterday so car has sat 48hrs Didn't come close to starting today. I can't test with a multimeter if the battery is known to be flat and the car won't run to turn the alternator. So let's play "Alternator or battery?"!! You can tell me if I'm making sense or very dense It struggled to start up having sat for 48 hrs. It drove a short distance to the shops where it sat 20 mins. It fired right up no problem. If it was the alternator then it should have struggled MORE to start after a very short trip, right? Instead, it started great, but 2 days later... nothing. So the battery held charge for 20 mins but not 2 days. In any case, it WAS charged. Conclusion: alternator ok, battery hosed Right? Supporting thought: Even if I'm wrong and it's the alternator that's shot, lovely alternators kill batteries, right? So I'd need a new battery in either case? Although... lovely batteries kill alternators too, so... maybe I need both in either case? Please help!
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Nov 5, 2020 08:06
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Cage posted:Louvers on a 2005 celica? Quarter window louvers?? Surely not rear window louvers. Hahaha admit it though, that's rad as gently caress.
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Nov 5, 2020 12:01
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Cage posted:Louvers on a 2005 celica? Quarter window louvers?? Surely not rear window louvers. Huh, actually shipping on your link is way more reasonable than the eBay one I was looking at...uhhh...  AI, should I!? (not my car, just same colour/ridiculous spoiler combo)
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Nov 5, 2020 12:28
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Do it.
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Nov 5, 2020 12:31
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simplefish posted:Conclusion: alternator ok, battery hosed Your battery is done. Replace it before it wrecks the alternator.
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Nov 5, 2020 12:43
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spankmeister posted:Those aftermarket remote start thingies are a surefire way to get intermittent electrical issues in your ignition circuit. Maybe a stupid question, but could I just order the factory parts for the OEM remote start system and fob, and just take them to a reliable car audio shop to install rather than risk these issues you speak of? I just wanna have everything on one fob, my car has a key with the alarm buttons on it and a separate fob for the remote starter, and the idea of having it all on one unit is awesome. Doesn't have to be aftermarket, I just want to have it on a physical unit that isn't connected to the internet. I don't want a botnet jacking my car.
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Nov 5, 2020 14:09
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SilvergunSuperman posted:Huh, actually shipping on your link is way more reasonable than the eBay one I was looking at...uhhh...
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Nov 5, 2020 14:57
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simplefish posted:Crossposting here: You're trying to do this the hard and unreliable way. Go to a parts store. You certainly need a new battery at this point. You may also need an alternator. Any decent parts store will test for both and probably even install the new battery for free.
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Nov 5, 2020 17:27
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