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I don't see why you couldn't disassemble the dolly and bolt the motor and bag to the wall. It's not like the dolly is a critical structural component. As for hose, people run ducting throughout their shops to handle dust collection. I assume a hose could also work, though the corrugated shape will probably hurt your airflow compared to using smooth rigid ducts.
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# ? Nov 4, 2020 22:15 |
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# ? May 16, 2024 03:00 |
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TooMuchAbstraction posted:I don't see why you couldn't disassemble the dolly and bolt the motor and bag to the wall. It's not like the dolly is a critical structural component. As for hose, people run ducting throughout their shops to handle dust collection. I assume a hose could also work, though the corrugated shape will probably hurt your airflow compared to using smooth rigid ducts. I mean I could do the ceiling mounted portion in PVC if it'd help, my concern is whether or not the kind of unit I could reasonably mount to a wall, no more than 2HP, can deal with 25'+ of hose/ducting vs the 3HP+ units I assume people with proper shops use. Was hoping someone here might've done something similar before, I don't want to buy a unit, put all the ducting up, and find out my DC can't produce enough static pressure at the tool to even pull chips up into the ceiling ducting. Maybe that's an unreasonable worry but I've seen it brought up on other forums when talking about smaller units.
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# ? Nov 4, 2020 22:25 |
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TooMuchAbstraction posted:I don't see why you couldn't disassemble the dolly and bolt the motor and bag to the wall. It's not like the dolly is a critical structural component. As for hose, people run ducting throughout their shops to handle dust collection. I assume a hose could also work, though the corrugated shape will probably hurt your airflow compared to using smooth rigid ducts. Its pretty minimal if any. I don't notice a difference between my spiral hose runs and PVC runs. Also as long as your runs are air tight it doesn't loose suction based on length. The more junctions you have the more areas for tiny gaps to loose pressure. I have about 70ft of hose/PVC run to 10 different stations off a HF 1.5hp system. I only notice a severe reduction in suction if I have more than one blast gate open. You could always turn it into a double stage to get it up off the floor. There are tons of videos on how to do so. But to be honest unless you need space actually on the floor the footprint in the shop is about the same.
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# ? Nov 4, 2020 22:29 |
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JEEVES420 posted:Its pretty minimal if any. I don't notice a difference between my spiral hose runs and PVC runs. Also as long as your runs are air tight it doesn't loose suction based on length. The more junctions you have the more areas for tiny gaps to loose pressure. I have about 70ft of hose/PVC run to 10 different stations off a HF 1.5hp system. I only notice a severe reduction in suction if I have more than one blast gate open. Great, sounds like you've got a similar setup working just fine with a small DC. Have you run a single tool with multiple 4'' ports with that unit? Any issues? I'll have blast gates at all the tools of course, and maybe some of the junctions. JEEVES420 posted:You could always turn it into a double stage to get it up off the floor. There are tons of videos on how to do so. But to be honest unless you need space actually on the floor the footprint in the shop is about the same. The space I've chosen is above a few non-shop related things that I need to store, a backup generator for the house for instance. I've got a good 6' of vertical space above those things that I'm hoping to put the DC in.
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# ? Nov 4, 2020 22:38 |
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Elem7 posted:Great, sounds like you've got a similar setup working just fine with a small DC. Have you run a single tool with multiple 4'' ports with that unit? Any issues? Yup, everything is 4". PVC runs (above the rafters with drop downs) connected to one side of a Y at the dust collector with the jointer/planer hose run on the the other side of the Y. Think about building a shelf for the bag to sit on, you don't want a bag of dust dropping on your generator when it gets too full
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# ? Nov 4, 2020 23:07 |
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JEEVES420 posted:Think about building a shelf for the bag to sit on, you don't want a bag of dust dropping on your generator when it gets too full Been considering it and I have enough vertical space that I think I am going to build a small open faced platform, storage underneath and the DC system resting on top as it would be normally assembled, sans casters, no need to worry about wall mounting it after all. I don't need to go super cheap so I think I've landed on Powermatic PM1300TX-CK canister unit for the project.
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# ? Nov 5, 2020 04:09 |
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Elem7 posted:Been considering it and I have enough vertical space that I think I am going to build a small open faced platform, storage underneath and the DC system resting on top as it would be normally assembled, sans casters, no need to worry about wall mounting it after all. I don't need to go super cheap so I think I've landed on Powermatic PM1300TX-CK canister unit for the project. It might not work or be convenient for your situation for any number of reasons, but putting your DC outside (run a pipe through the wall to your main DC pipes) would save space and keep the noise and dust outside. If I ever get a big central system instead of a little collector at each machine I’d love to build an enclosure/cover and have the unit itself outside. If you are hoping a dust collector will make your bandsaw dust-free, prepare for disappointment. Bandsaws are great at throwing dust everywhere-I’ve never known one that did a good job on dust collection.
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# ? Nov 5, 2020 04:32 |
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I built this cart for my dust collector and cyclone. No filter or bag for the fine dust, I just vent that out a window. I live in a moderate climate and a drafty house so blowing all my conditioned air out of the basement isn't a big deal. If it's heating season and the gas furnace is running I crack a window to avoid a backdraft. Unfortunately things like this happen when my trash can gets full:
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# ? Nov 5, 2020 13:06 |
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NomNomNom posted:
Not having to deal with a big filter seems like it would be pretty convenient. NomNomNom posted:Unfortunately things like this happen when my trash can gets full: I think the obvious solution is to dump your collection bin in that bed as mulch.
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# ? Nov 5, 2020 16:42 |
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I got a bunch of 1x6 cedar planks for cheap cheap cheap, including about a dozen that are 12 feet long. What are some good uses for cedar? It seems too soft to use for furniture.
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# ? Nov 5, 2020 18:07 |
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CommonShore posted:I got a bunch of 1x6 cedar planks for cheap cheap cheap, including about a dozen that are 12 feet long. What are some good uses for cedar? It seems too soft to use for furniture. Cedar chest for holding things to make them smell good? I have built a picnic table from cedar, but 1x6s would not make good furniture.
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# ? Nov 5, 2020 18:10 |
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Jhet posted:Cedar chest for holding things to make them smell good? I have built a picnic table from cedar, but 1x6s would not make good furniture. Chest is a good idea. I am thinking about making some nightstands too and using the cedar to make drawers in whole or in part.
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# ? Nov 5, 2020 18:12 |
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CommonShore posted:I got a bunch of 1x6 cedar planks for cheap cheap cheap, including about a dozen that are 12 feet long. What are some good uses for cedar? It seems too soft to use for furniture. Cedar has properties that make it a natural repellent to insects so it's often used in chests and boxes where you want to store things. Cedar chests for storing winter blankets, cedar hope chests, document boxes lined with aromatic cedar, etc. It was used for outdoors for the same reasons, see cedar roofing, siding, and fencing. Though cedar roofing and siding is much less common these days because of the fire hazard. Also cedar dust is really not very good to breathe so use a dust mask.
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# ? Nov 5, 2020 18:14 |
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Make a 12 foot tall dice tower:
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# ? Nov 5, 2020 18:20 |
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Rutibex posted:Make a 12 foot tall dice tower: How big are the dice?
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# ? Nov 5, 2020 18:53 |
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JEEVES420 posted:How big are the dice? If your standard dice tower is what, 6 inches high? Then we're talking dice about 15 inches a side or so, I'd say. I'm thinking hollow wicker construction would be your best bet for weight savings and bounciness so they don't destroy things. Elysium fucked around with this message at 19:36 on Nov 5, 2020 |
# ? Nov 5, 2020 19:33 |
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I plan to pick up a bunch of derelict pallets from work and turn them into planter boxes, what options do I have for protecting them from the extra moisture they will be constantly exposed to? Is this even the right thread to ask?
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# ? Nov 6, 2020 03:27 |
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The_Hatt posted:I plan to pick up a bunch of derelict pallets from work and turn them into planter boxes, what options do I have for protecting them from the extra moisture they will be constantly exposed to? Is this even the right thread to ask?
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# ? Nov 6, 2020 03:41 |
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The_Hatt posted:I plan to pick up a bunch of derelict pallets from work and turn them into planter boxes, what options do I have for protecting them from the extra moisture they will be constantly exposed to? Is this even the right thread to ask? Echoing what’s above me. I used thick plastic stapled to the inside (leftover floor underlayment) and whatever paint I have around for the parts in contact with dirt. Expect them to fall apart within 3 years depending on climate and moisture.
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# ? Nov 6, 2020 03:58 |
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Even going beyond that, instead of expecting them to fall apart, design them so that when they do fall apart you can just replace the relevant chunks
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# ? Nov 6, 2020 04:06 |
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Also please be aware that some pallets are treated with potentially toxic stuff, which you definitely don't want if you're growing food in the planters
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# ? Nov 6, 2020 05:16 |
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I recommend building your planter boxes out of the cheapest untreated 2x material you can buy, and then replacing them every 3-4 years. If you live in the desert or a super temperate climate you can maybe get another year or two. I just tore out a raised bed that was 6 years old, and while the insides were rotting out, it was still holding soil in just fine.
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# ? Nov 6, 2020 09:36 |
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I had a set of raised beds made out of construction grade 2x6 go ~8 years with only a BLO coating on them in New England.
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# ? Nov 6, 2020 18:16 |
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I put boxes in made out of just regular SYP 2x12s and they went 6 years easily in central NC. Only really bothered pulling them up this fall because we're expanding and reorganizing in the spring.
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# ? Nov 6, 2020 18:29 |
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I lined the insides of my boxes with plastic sheeting, which should hold off the rot for a couple extra years
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# ? Nov 6, 2020 18:30 |
My home came with a giant planter box made of some sort of 2x*, it's been around for at least five years and shows no signs of going anywhere. It's lined with plastic and I live in the desert though.
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# ? Nov 6, 2020 18:33 |
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So I bought this Stanley plane new, and the sole had some deep scratches covering the plane so I glued some 180 grit sandpaper to a tile as YouTube suggested, and set to work. An hour later I have this: Clearly the sole is not flat, and my understanding is that it's critical that it be flat near the mouth. Is this a case of suck it up and keep going or am I doing something wrong? E:those scratches covered the entire sole, the shiny surfaces are where the sandpaper has worked.
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# ? Nov 7, 2020 05:06 |
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Flea Bargain posted:So I bought this Stanley plane new, and the sole had some deep scratches covering the plane so I glued some 180 grit sandpaper to a tile as YouTube suggested, and set to work. An hour later I have this: oof try going to a coarser sandpaper for a while, and going back up to the 180 as you get closer to the goal? Instead of gluing it, just clamp it.
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# ? Nov 7, 2020 06:01 |
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Flea Bargain posted:So I bought this Stanley plane new, and the sole had some deep scratches covering the plane so I glued some 180 grit sandpaper to a tile as YouTube suggested, and set to work. An hour later I have this: Definitely use coarser paper. I usually use 80 when flattening soles. It still takes a while depending on the plane. And clean the paper off every 30-40 passes with a magnet to clear out the filings. Placing the magnet in a little plastic cup makes cleanup easy.
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# ? Nov 7, 2020 06:24 |
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I made a serving platter/cheese board and a cheese knife for my parents Christmas present. I'm stuck with a fairly drug dealer-esque phone so this is the best picture I can do rn. Oiled the board this afternoon, orbital to 400 grit then hand to 1200, sand-wet-sand at 400 grit then finished the rest up to 1200. Pretty stoked with it, I like the shape and would probably spring on a laser cut template to do a batch of these with the router. Timber is camphor laurel, when my phone's been replaced I'll get some better pics
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# ? Nov 7, 2020 07:50 |
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McSpergin posted:
Am I odd that I see this cutting board as a fish (the knot is its eye) Rutibex fucked around with this message at 13:58 on Nov 7, 2020 |
# ? Nov 7, 2020 12:32 |
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Now I cannot unsee that. It is an excellent looking fish board.
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# ? Nov 7, 2020 12:57 |
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Lmao now I see it too Camphor is great for this sort of stuff. It has some antibacterial properties and smells good, but doesn't impart smells on food and has a stunning grain
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# ? Nov 7, 2020 13:19 |
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That cutting board looks amazing. So shiny! Is it just oil? And Iagree camphor laurel is great. Wish I could find more of it. Where did you get yours?
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# ? Nov 7, 2020 13:41 |
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That looks great. My dresser is an antique campaign chest made of camphor and it smells so good and is gorgeous. It has a very similar ropey chatoyancy as mahogany too. It took me forever to figure out what it was, but now I recognize it all the time in anglo-indian antiques. I thought it was teak or sissoo/indian rosewood for the longest time. It grows kind of invasively here but never gets super big. I would love to have some lumber.
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# ? Nov 7, 2020 14:33 |
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Flea Bargain posted:So I bought this Stanley plane new, and the sole had some deep scratches covering the plane so I glued some 180 grit sandpaper to a tile as YouTube suggested, and set to work. An hour later I have this: I've had the best success using 100 or 120 grit paper. If you find good quality 80 grit that can work even better, but typically the really coarse paper stops cutting very quickly. You're on the right track, just keep going. That's pretty good progress for an hour on 180 grit.
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# ? Nov 7, 2020 14:43 |
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Kaiser Schnitzel posted:That looks great. My dresser is an antique campaign chest made of camphor and it smells so good and is gorgeous. It has a very similar ropey chatoyancy as mahogany too. It took me forever to figure out what it was, but now I recognize it all the time in anglo-indian antiques. I thought it was teak or sissoo/indian rosewood for the longest time. It grows kind of invasively here but never gets super big. I would love to have some lumber. Gimme dat sweet sweet chatoyancy Chauncy, every time. jk if you didn't already know. Big fan of chatoyancy here. Big fan, the biggest
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# ? Nov 7, 2020 17:56 |
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Don't buy new stanley planes, exception for the sweetheart line but those are still more hit-and-miss than they should be for their price point. My arms and brain hurt just looking at how much flattening you have left to do.
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# ? Nov 7, 2020 21:27 |
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Granite Octopus posted:That cutting board looks amazing. So shiny! Is it just oil? Just a coat of walrus cutting board oil! That was taken basically once I'd finished oiling it so I'll see how it looks when it's "cured"
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# ? Nov 7, 2020 22:20 |
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# ? May 16, 2024 03:00 |
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GEMorris posted:Don't buy new stanley planes, exception for the sweetheart line but those are still more hit-and-miss than they should be for their price point. So what is a good, cheap, no fuss out of the box, brand new brand for planes? I really have no desire to restore a plane or pay lee valley prices for them.
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# ? Nov 7, 2020 22:41 |