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an AOL chatroom posted:Heading into a couple of vacation days next week, and have myself a nice little pile of parts ready for a Tamiya TT-02 build. My helper is *very* excited to bite the antenna Very cool! The one I built worked rather well with a healthy amount of Mobil 1 grease (silver and blue tub, available at any auto parts store) in all the diffs. More in the center and front, less in the rear. The stock tires aren't great and I know on carpet it needs a lot more negative camber front and rear, probably on any surface. If you're getting traction rolls get some superglue up on them outside tire sidewalls. Also the "speed gear set" (TAM54500) is a great cheap upgrade. Take the time to tidy up the edges of the suspension arms where they might rub against the mount / chassis / upright. I'm trying to decide if my first serious dive into on-road racing is GT12 or Vintage Trans Am. It looks like both classes are equally popular at the track I'll be moving close to. I like the idea of both, not sure how I want to go tho. 1/12 pan car or 1/10 touring car? Hmmm...
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# ? Nov 7, 2020 00:35 |
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# ? May 15, 2024 04:24 |
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Wow, thanks folks!! I’ll grab some of that grease before digging in on Monday. I already ordered the high speed gear, the upgraded bearings, better shocks, and a few other aluminum bits. It’s just for loving around on pavement with friends, but we’ll see how the stock tires work. Right now, I’m just getting the bodywork out of the way. Those little “fangs” in the grille and along the bottom are a pain to mask off.
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# ? Nov 7, 2020 01:17 |
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an AOL chatroom posted:Wow, thanks folks!! I’ll grab some of that grease before digging in on Monday. I already ordered the high speed gear, the upgraded bearings, better shocks, and a few other aluminum bits. It’s just for loving around on pavement with friends, but we’ll see how the stock tires work. Right now, I’m just getting the bodywork out of the way. Those little “fangs” in the grille and along the bottom are a pain to mask off. If you start getting serious about painting and masking get yourself a big bottle of the Bittydesign masking fluid and find an art store and get the largest, high quality synthetic flat brush you can find for less than $10. Don't thin the fluid, keep it liquid while applying, and wash the brush immediately. That stuff works very well. Three solid brush coats with a few hours of drying between gives you a really nice transparent pink tinted mask that's easily trimmed and removed with a hobby knife. I promise I'm not a Bittydesign shill. It really works that well. Also thin sharpie markers on the exterior peel mask works great. Get a bottle of plain acetone to clean up mistakes. It even works on plain lexan because I'm pretty sure acetone doesn't (permanently) damage lexan. edit: added the word transparent.
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# ? Nov 7, 2020 02:07 |
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https://www.youtube.com/watch?v=IxcsJgLdz1c well... I finally made a video of my 1:76 scale r/c car? Now I've got a total of like a hour playing with it. I can say I really do like it.
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# ? Nov 11, 2020 10:18 |
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Gay Weed Dad posted:Unless you're hell bent on 3d printing it this is firmly WPL/MN money which as the others said will hold up quite a bit better. I totally agree with the building being half the fun and these little crawlers have proven to be an excellent introduction to the hobby for me. Printing is going well, I'd like to point out to any other idiots like me that no, these are not price comparable - after 4 rolls of filament, tyres, shocks, bearings, a billion m2 & m3 screws, plus motor/ESC/battery/controller etc that this is only a good idea if you either really want to build it yourself or already have half the parts. On that note, where should I buy lipo batteries and charger in the UK? I need a 7.2v 5000mah pack.
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# ? Nov 11, 2020 13:20 |
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Mostly done with my TT-02 build. I went with something close to Ford's "Grabber Blue" and kept the decals to a minimum, except around the grilles and windows. It's got a Novak 13.5 sensored/brushless motor with a cheap hobbywing ESC. Quick but controllable on 2s, and I'm loving the way it looks. Definitely recommend the kit for someone looking for an intermediate/advanced build, or a family project. Also, thank you antimatt for pointing out the shock/upright thing, I filed those down during assembly and now it's all smooth.
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# ? Nov 13, 2020 02:45 |
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Did it come with the light kit?
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# ? Nov 13, 2020 03:06 |
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Boaz MacPhereson posted:Did it come with the light kit? Nope, that was just a $6 ebay kit I had leftover in my parts drawer. The headlights and taillights are actually two-part, with the body part being left clear, and separate molded pieces with the stickers on the inside. I just reamed out holes for the headlights on the inner pieces, couldn't figure out a good way to do the 3-segmented taillights.
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# ? Nov 13, 2020 03:09 |
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Gotcha. The Bronco came with their light kit and that poo poo is rad as hell. I know some people don't think much of Tamiya chassis, but their bodies are next level.
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# ? Nov 13, 2020 04:49 |
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I'm in the process of painting my TT-02 911 RSR body and am trying to find light buckets that will work. Where should I be looking? I already have the tamiya light kit and controller. I just need a way to mount the LEDs to the lexan. Edit: Found a set in Germany! https://tamico.de/navi.php?a=242520&lang=eng McTinkerson fucked around with this message at 15:41 on Nov 16, 2020 |
# ? Nov 13, 2020 04:53 |
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Finally got all my parts and my car. It took me longer to put together than I thought. But first time and all. The only thing I haven't been able to get right is I don't seem to have brakes or reverse. I did the binding and calibrating about a hundred times. Steering and throttle work. But I went out for the maiden voyage today and god drat I was impressed. These things fly. Anyway I rolled it at top speed and it shot the pinion gear out and there's about a 0% chance of finding that so I'm waiting on a replacement.
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# ? Nov 28, 2020 19:47 |
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moctopus posted:The only thing I haven't been able to get right is I don't seem to have brakes or reverse. I did the binding and calibrating about a hundred times. Steering and throttle work.
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# ? Nov 28, 2020 20:16 |
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Finished up my Orlandoo Hunter OH35P01 build. Definitely going to go back and weather the bumpers and tidy up the electronics when I get a chance, but like others have said, it's pretty capable for a tiny little thing.
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# ? Nov 28, 2020 21:30 |
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an AOL chatroom posted:Finished up my Orlandoo Hunter OH35P01 build. Definitely going to go back and weather the bumpers and tidy up the electronics when I get a chance, but like others have said, it's pretty capable for a tiny little thing. How was the build? I have heard they are a bit of a bitch. I like building more then running, but have been scared off of those the 20 times I have looked at them.
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# ? Nov 29, 2020 00:40 |
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Snowmankilla posted:How was the build? I have heard they are a bit of a bitch. I like building more then running, but have been scared off of those the 20 times I have looked at them. I enjoyed it. It's nicely set up, so building it didn't require too many finger acrobatics, except for maybe the shocks. The instructions are done pretty well, although I don't remember seeing any guidance on where to put the electronics. I really like the way the links are set up, and the plastic castings are really precise. I did have to build one of the diffs a few times to get the axles to slide in without feeling like the whole thing was going to break in half, but overall, no drama. You definitely need a clean well-lit place, and I'd also recommend getting something like this to keep the various types of screws straight (the reference images in the manual don't match) and a good set of small Phillips head screwdrivers, as well as a durable/comfortable 0.9mm hex driver. The ones they include are frustrating to work with. There's also a number of place where you have to drill a pilot hole for threaded bits, and the reamer they give you is way too big, so a teeny tiny drill bit would probably also be a good thing to have. I ended up having to CA glue a few parts that were too loose. All told, I probably spent about 7-9 hours putting it together, and 1.5 of those hours were painting. Soldering the SMD bulbs was also no joy, but I was prepared for that thanks to Ambihelical Hexnut and it turned out to not be so bad. They posted a bunch of pictures of their build over here https://forums.somethingawful.com/showthread.php?threadid=3125553&userid=0&perpage=40&pagenumber=135#post506423225
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# ? Nov 29, 2020 01:10 |
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Thats good. The idea of having to drill and soldering is what I now remember scared me off. Looks dope though!
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# ? Nov 29, 2020 03:21 |
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moctopus posted:Finally got all my parts and my car. It took me longer to put together than I thought. But first time and all. The only thing I haven't been able to get right is I don't seem to have brakes or reverse. I did the binding and calibrating about a hundred times. Steering and throttle work.
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# ? Nov 29, 2020 08:07 |
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an AOL chatroom posted:Finished up my Orlandoo Hunter OH35P01 build. Definitely going to go back and weather the bumpers and tidy up the electronics when I get a chance, but like others have said, it's pretty capable for a tiny little thing. Looks awesome! The front bumper snapped off mine because there was too much force required to snap/unsnap the forward body panel, so watch out for that.
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# ? Nov 29, 2020 16:04 |
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A bloke I used to race RC with has made up his own 1/10th mid 60s F1 RC car model. It looks brilliant and will be on sale from the start of next year: https://grandprix3d.store
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# ? Nov 30, 2020 00:13 |
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What's up, AI. I did skim the thread, and so I know y'all seem to be mainly into R/C cars that require building, modding, and all that, but my question is this: I want to get a cool R/C car or truck for my nephews (ages 4 and 7). It needs to be playable-with right out of the box (when browsing, I thought something like the Comical Hornet looked cool as hell, but it requires buying / installing separate parts), and needs to be able to go off-road. Everything else generally desirable in an R/C car you can take as given. Any suggestions?
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# ? Dec 2, 2020 16:40 |
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Price range is going to be important. I picked up a losi mini t 2.0. It has all you need in the box, and has been great fun.
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# ? Dec 2, 2020 18:23 |
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I have a similar question, but I'm mostly ok with building or modding (but would probably prefer something RTR), and instead of for children, I want something my dog can chase around our backyard. It's relatively level but grassy, and I'd like something that can move at a decent clip and isn't made of papier mache. Couple hundred bucks max?
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# ? Dec 2, 2020 18:35 |
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Krakkles posted:I have a similar question, but I'm mostly ok with building or modding (but would probably prefer something RTR), and instead of for children, I want something my dog can chase around our backyard. It's relatively level but grassy, and I'd like something that can move at a decent clip and isn't made of papier mache. I use a 1:10 Tamiya Lunchbox as a dog toy tow vehicle. I have a piece of Velcro on the wheelie bar, so when my dogs catch the toy, it detaches easily enough and doesn't damage the truck. I think everything came to just over $200Cad. FlySky Radio off eBay, charger off eBay, Nimh pack off Amazon and the LunchBox from RCMart.
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# ? Dec 2, 2020 18:42 |
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That looks and sounds absolutely perfect. Thank you!
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# ? Dec 2, 2020 18:44 |
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Pastry of the Year posted:What's up, AI. I did skim the thread, and so I know y'all seem to be mainly into R/C cars that require building, modding, and all that, but my question is this: I bought a LaTrax Teton for my BIL and it's ready to party right out of the box. Even has batteries for the radio. Not super big but big enough for fun. Made by the Traxxas people so it's a decent little truck. I think I paid like 130-140 US.
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# ? Dec 2, 2020 18:50 |
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I got super into small stuff this quarantine. All of these are in the 100-200 range. If you want a crawler (going slow over everything) go with a Axial SCX 24. My kids love theirs (and so do I). More of a racing feel go with a Losi mini-t or the new mini-b that just came out. They are mini track truggy/buggies and insanely fun on dirt and pavement. If you want more of a truck style those LeTraxes are cool, but for that much I would maybe go with an Arrma Granite Voltage. I own 3 Traxxas cars and love them, but the best bang for your buck ridge now in a big 1:10 scale is Arrma imho.
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# ? Dec 3, 2020 04:42 |
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evil_bunnY posted:That's 99% an ESC config problem. I've been at it for a couple days. Double, triple, quadruple checked the esc. Did the binding/calibration a million times. Flipped the direction the connector that goes from the esc to the receiver was connected. Nothing seemed to work and then I got mad and said gently caress it and now it works after one more binding/calibration. I'll take it. Also got my replacement pinion gear. This one came with two screws so maybe that's why the other one flew off. I hope I have it tight enough. Got the loctite on there too. Says it sets in 20 minutes, but it's 24 hours for the full cure. So hopefully I can get out there again this weekend.
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# ? Dec 5, 2020 14:33 |
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I got to drive it and had a blast. It will roll very easily when turning, but I think that's got more to do with me being gentler with the steering and throttle. Kind of funny how stable it is if you are going backwards though. I had another question though. I'm getting bugged for gift ideas for the holiday season. Does anyone have any suggestions for tools or nice-to-haves for someone new to this? Under $50 but much better in the $15 range? Thanks!
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# ? Dec 9, 2020 10:40 |
A set of MIP hex drivers. They're a bit spendy but if you stick with the hobby they will pay for themselves and then some.
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# ? Dec 9, 2020 10:55 |
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moctopus posted:I got to drive it and had a blast. Get a nice RC tool set. Helps out a lot when trying to do upkeep and repairs. Also a battery measure you can hook up to your vehicle that’ll let you know when you’ve hit a certain voltage, good way to keep your batteries in good condition. Also a fire proof box or bag to store lipo batteries,
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# ? Dec 9, 2020 10:56 |
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I finally got around to mounting up my Vanquish BCA Method wheels to my Axial KO2's. I will put them on my Jeep for now. I think the pin will offset nicely against the Solo cup design. In the future, probably next year I think I might make a move where I paint a body similarly to the colorway of these basketball shoes I am got myself for Christmas. These are "Venom" colorway, like the comicbook Venom with the razor teeth and blood splatter. I think it could end up looking pretty sweet all done. The photos of the wheel is a little dark but the wheels are much brighter pink than what you see. I also have some of the Pro-Line 1.9 Trencher tires coming this week in the G8 compound to give a try. I think I will put those on my red Origin and move the KM3's off. I purchased the KM3 in the predator compound and I just haven't really liked them. The G8 does a better job here in Utah.
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# ? Dec 9, 2020 21:11 |
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I know some of you guys are digging on the super tiny RC trucks. Why not go the extra mile and make some terrain? https://www.youtube.com/watch?v=s0d3XTtiwYE
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# ? Dec 17, 2020 14:55 |
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Luke Towan has taught me quite a few techniques with the videos he makes. He does good work.
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# ? Dec 17, 2020 18:48 |
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Hello, Back with more questions. I got a couple problems I'm trying to resolve. The first is that the car really wants to pull to the right under acceleration. Hitting full throttle from a standstill will pretty much immediately throw to the right and roll. It's kind of neat, but not much fun after about 30 seconds. Setting the trim to 34 or -34 makes it kind of passable, but still a bit squirrely. I don't think it's the servo. It seems to turn appropriately with input, and I don't see the wheels turn right under throttle if the car is suspended which makes me think it's not the ESC, or anything electrical. It could be that the tires/wheels need more glue according to a post I saw. I'll have to inspect. Right now I'm suspecting the front toe angle. I took some pictures, but maybe I'm crazy. Here's a couple shots from today before I turned it on. So 34 on trim and turned off. To me it looks like the front right wheel's toe is a little more out there. Next I turned it on and returned the trim to 0. Here's shots of turning max left and releasing. Here's shots of turning max right and releasing. I'm also thinking about setting the front wheels to have a little toe in (instead of how they're out now) since I read that can help make thinks less twitchy. Here's an image of the top after I took it off. Which leads me to my second question which is how do I clean these? I didn't even think it was wet outside. Also, I put a gopro on it. Which was kind of neat even if it made the front end lift up under it rolled backwards. https://www.youtube.com/watch?v=IuBgpwCshuc
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# ? Dec 17, 2020 20:01 |
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I might still have some 1/12 pan car wheels in that exact color, dating back to when that was "new" and not "retro". Looks awesome. moctopus: That looks like an absurd amount of toe-out, which will cause an equal amount of directional instability. Setting steering trim I usually use little or no throttle and just see where it coasts, but if you're having to dial in that much trim you probably need to work on centering the linkage itself up some.
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# ? Dec 17, 2020 20:58 |
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Thanks for the response. I'm actually relieved it looks like an absurd amount because it means I'm not imagining things. Good project for tomorrow.
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# ? Dec 17, 2020 22:26 |
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Gently scrub with a sponge or toothbrush while using a gentle dish soap and water solution to clean the body up pretty easily and safely.
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# ? Dec 17, 2020 22:33 |
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moctopus posted:Hello, First I will say have a look at this YouTube vid I made a while back talking about setting your servo end points and trims. https://www.youtube.com/watch?v=g8qRcYU0Mek It doesn't seem like you are getting much throw out of your steering. I use a Futaba radio in this video but the principles are the same as far as setting trim/sub trims/end points. You don't have to worry about throttle end points since you have an ESC and not a throttle servo so only the first half is relevant to you. Second I agree with what others have said. Your toe out seems a bit excessive. A little toe out will make for more stability on-throttle leading into a corner but in a straight on throttle it will wander a bit back and forth. I would go 0 degrees on your front toe. Pulling to the right that much is not normal. Check your suspension components like arms/hinge pins to make sure that you don't have something broken. You will get a little bit of torque steer, but what you are experiencing sounds excessive. Other things to inspect: your diffs operating normally, and all your driveline dogbones/CV shafts have all the drive pins present and accounted for. Make sure you don't have a stripped wheel hub. To clean: Simple green (I usually mix 1:1 with water), a stiff bristle brush and an air compressor. The ultimate cheat code is a Tornador (check it out here). It makes it look like you just pulled your car out of the dishwasher. For the body, hose that thing down with simple green/rinse it off and then air compressor. The body graphics are durable enough it will work out fine. IOwnCalculus posted:I might still have some 1/12 pan car wheels in that exact color, dating back to when that was "new" and not "retro". Looks awesome. Yeah, these were ultra limited in production. They sold them in October and proceeds went toward Breast Cancer which was both cool and good.
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# ? Dec 17, 2020 23:13 |
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Somewhat Heroic posted:First I will say have a look at this YouTube vid I made a while back talking about setting your servo end points and trims. https://www.youtube.com/watch?v=g8qRcYU0Mek Hey, thanks so much. Everyone here has been a huge help. I think I've learned more about cars doing this than anything else.
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# ? Dec 18, 2020 12:44 |
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# ? May 15, 2024 04:24 |
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Yeah, that kind of learning is also why I fell in love with it decades ago as a child. That and it being something my dad and me worked together on.
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# ? Dec 18, 2020 15:13 |