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wesleywillis posted:I put a coat of wax on my car for the first time in probably 10 years, and have two questions. Black plastic is a bitch for removal of dried wax. Peanut butter has been a go-to for a while, but it's a bit messy. On that note, I was going to suggest a product for plastic trim that may take care of your issue -- Cerakote. [url]https://www.amazon.com/CERAKOTE-Ceramic-Trim-Coat-Kit/dp/B07SHJVK4G I just tried it on a 2005 Escalade, 2006 Passat and 2015 RDX and it did a fantastic job on all of them. It brought back the medium-grey color on the running boards/rear bumper of the Escalade that had long given way to a chalky color. It made the Passat trim look like new. It made the RDX trim look better than new. It's supposed to last for 2 years... even if it only lasts 1, it's more than worth it.
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Nov 7, 2020 20:00
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EVERYWHERE 
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I finally got around to tossing a couple coats of the Meguiar's Hybrid Ceramic onto my M3 so we'll see how that holds up this winter. It went on top of an actual ceramic coating I had done last year. 
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Nov 7, 2020 20:34
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wesleywillis posted:I put a coat of wax on my car for the first time in probably 10 years, and have two questions. IIRC, you can use a spray wax to remove hard wax "overspray". It's been ages I used a hard wax, so I'd look up some YouTube videos first.
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Nov 7, 2020 20:55
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Big red pencil eraser (yeah the $0.99 ones for school kids) take wax right off plastic trim. Rub with eraser, wipe with a bit of rubbing alcohol on a paper towel, put some 303 on it after.
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Nov 8, 2020 15:25
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On that recent note, what's something I can put over cilajet but still be able to remove and reapply later without taking the coating off? I know I should avoid any petroleum based stuff. Or would it just be redundant? Ranzear fucked around with this message at 16:56 on Nov 8, 2020 |
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Nov 8, 2020 16:53
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It's kinda silly, but I got a nice caddy for all the detailing stuff. I can't believe I was living with loose bottles of cleaner and just juggling them all this time.
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Nov 9, 2020 05:55
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https://www.youtube.com/watch?v=rLs8DK0iwWY is this a good method and product for cleaning the wheel weight glue stuff? Any other preferred way to do it? Just got new tires put on today and now my black wheels have glue spooge on them  Looks like it's this product: https://smile.amazon.com/3M-03612-Adhesive-Eraser-Wheel/dp/B005RNGN8I/ tangy yet delightful fucked around with this message at 07:02 on Nov 19, 2020 |
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Nov 19, 2020 07:00
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I've never used one and the main concern would be heat build-up and burning the finish. But they do seem to work, and people use them on paint as well. I'd probably try one and be super careful with my pressure until I get a feel for it. Also low RPM at start.
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Nov 19, 2020 07:23
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I’d recommend Goof Off first, and if that doesn’t work use the wheel. I’ve used both on paint with no problems. The wheel doesn’t get hot (that I remember). When I used it though it was thicker foam tape, so a bit of material before I got close.
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Nov 19, 2020 16:14
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meatpimp posted:Black plastic is a bitch for removal of dried wax. Peanut butter has been a go-to for a while, but it's a bit messy.
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Nov 19, 2020 17:32
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I'll try goof off first since I have it and it's way cheaper too. Thanks.
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Nov 20, 2020 01:46
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Suggestion for tree sap on a ceramic coated car? Most I found was petroleum based which is no-no.
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Nov 20, 2020 02:26
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Ranzear posted:Suggestion for tree sap on a ceramic coated car? Most I found was petroleum based which is no-no. Have you tried warm / hot water? I threw all kinds of aggressive stuff at tree sap... and then it just washed right off with water.
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Nov 20, 2020 02:42
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Citrus power or similar
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Nov 20, 2020 02:49
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griots last day of their friends and family discount, 15% off anything code: EMHENB
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Dec 14, 2020 18:20
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I'll take a pic of it later, but I'll ask anyway: scraped the paint off of the passenger side mirror against the garage door in a few areas. It's plastic, so I'm not incredibly worried, but I do at least want to touch it up and not have it be super obvious. Is this a good candidate for Dr Colorchip? Also washed the car for the second time this year probably: 
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Dec 28, 2020 23:32
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I'm trying to detail a car to sell it. I'm going to be replacing the badly cracked windshield so cleaning the glass isn't an issue. Or maybe I should still do it for the side windows and the rear windshield? I'm thinking I need the Meguiar's all purpose cleaner, a clay bar (someone hit and ran my side mirror and left some paint on there), a microfiber towel for scrubbing the inside, possibly some leather cleaner or will the Meguiar's do that? Shampoo for the carpets? The problem is I live in an apartment complex so a spray gun hooked up to an air compressor is going to be a no-go.
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Dec 31, 2020 23:11
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I'm one of the few Jeep GC owners who actually takes their SUV on off-road (baby) trails. I washed it today hoping the brush scratches and dog drool scratches would come off. They didn't. I'm new to polishing, but I'm guessing Ill need to clay bar and polish the effected areas. My question is do I need to clay bar the unaffected areas before sealant? I'm guessing it's about 25 pct to 75 pct affected versus unaffected since the scratches are down the sides.
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Jan 6, 2021 08:27
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I'm extremely disappointed with the Carpro FlyBy Forte windshield coating. I got a new windshield in November and saw it as a perfect time to try applying a ceramic glass coating. I had done the exact same thing on my fiance's TTS after she had to get her windshield replaced. For her car I used the Gtechniq G1(i think) and it was kind of a pain in the rear end to apply and then buff off with the second solution that it comes with. For both cars I cleaned the glass thoroughly, ran a claybar over it, and then used the Carpro Eraser as a final step before allowing it to try and applying the coating. The Gtechniq has been on the TTS since May and still works well. Water beads and slides off while driving. For the Carpro FlyBy Forte, I put it on around November 17. We didn't get much rain in central texas until very recently. The rain was so heavy at low speed that I had to use my wipers-- and by the time I got up to speed I found that the water didn't bead at all in the areas where the wipers passed. It's completely dead now. No sheeting or beading. I emailed the customer service desk and got a response of "Well you must have done something wrong, or something contaminated it before it cured", but it sat in my closed garage for probably 48 hours since we don't drive much. I just checked the reviews on the product again and found a number of people who had the exact same failure as me in as little as a month or two. I guess I'm not out too much money, but it is tedious to apply, and now I'm not sure if I'll have to use some cerium oxide polishing compound to remove any of the previous coating before I go back and apply the Gtechniq, this time. /end rant.
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Jan 6, 2021 08:39
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Yeah mine didn't last very long neither. Don't remember exactly when it failed enough that I had to use wipers. I even polished the windscreen and used proper panel wipes etc. Lasted me maybe 4-5 months? The stock hydrophobic stuff on the front side windows is super good though, I wonder what it is. The worst part ofthe FlyBy Forte is that it doesn't bead at all at town speeds, which means wipers are needed which degrades the coating faster.
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Jan 6, 2021 08:52
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Evil SpongeBob posted:I'm one of the few Jeep GC owners who actually takes their SUV on off-road (baby) trails. I washed it today hoping the brush scratches and dog drool scratches would come off. They didn't. I'm new to polishing, but I'm guessing Ill need to clay bar and polish the effected areas. You will want to clay the entire Jeep, yes. It will remove contamination before polish, then when you clean off the polish you can seal the entire thing and the sealant should adhere better.
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Jan 6, 2021 12:07
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If you decide to clay, make sure you buy some high quality clay that isn't too harsh. Clay introduces swirls into paint so unless you plan on polishing the whole car after you clay, make sure you get something that at least minimizes the "damage".
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Jan 6, 2021 12:29
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Yeah, I got the chemical guys clay and lube. It smells nice. I clayed back in spring and polished the whole truck. I was feeling a bit lazy and didn't want to polish the whole truck again because the scratches are only on the sides. But with today's news events, I think spending hours claying the whole truck anyway in my garage instead of computer or tv is worth it. Thanks.
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Jan 6, 2021 23:52
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MrOnBicycle posted:Yeah mine didn't last very long neither. Don't remember exactly when it failed enough that I had to use wipers. I even polished the windscreen and used proper panel wipes etc. Lasted me maybe 4-5 months? The stock hydrophobic stuff on the front side windows is super good though, I wonder what it is. Yeah, so I need some tips on how to proceed? I don't have a rotary buffer, but I guess I need to polish off whatever coating remains from FlyBy Forte. Is there a better glass coating that sheets or beads off water at low speed, and will last longer than the month it lasted me?
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Jan 7, 2021 04:44
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MetaJew posted:Yeah, so I need some tips on how to proceed? I don't have a rotary buffer, but I guess I need to polish off whatever coating remains from FlyBy Forte. There probably are better coatings on the market. If I'm honest I don't know what it was that sold me on FlyBy forte, and I haven't looked into coatings for a year, so I'm a bit out if the loop. To be sure I'd polish off the old stuff (and any dirt and grime that the decontamination didn't get) so the new coating gets a proper chance. I'll probably give FlyBy forte another go since I don't want to throw it away. I think Obsessed Garage has a preferred glass coating (if you can stand to watch his videos, he really comes across in a bad way) that's available in the US.
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Jan 7, 2021 08:42
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MrOnBicycle posted:There probably are better coatings on the market. If I'm honest I don't know what it was that sold me on FlyBy forte, and I haven't looked into coatings for a year, so I'm a bit out if the loop. To be sure I'd polish off the old stuff (and any dirt and grime that the decontamination didn't get) so the new coating gets a proper chance. I'll probably give FlyBy forte another go since I don't want to throw it away. What sold me on FlyBy Forte was the application process for the Gtechniq G1. Basically, you apply -- I forget, 3 coatings of the ceramic coat fluid waiting some time in between, and then you come back with the second fluid in the kit to remove/buff off any haze. FlyBy, in contrast, only has one product that you put on several coats with, and then they tell you to buff offer any haze with the same applicator pad, I believe. The Gtechniq product hazed up pretty bad and gave me a sore shoulder by the time I managed to buff off all of the haze, but it's still working well.
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Jan 7, 2021 09:43
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If you are looking for a new glass coating check out Chicago Auto Pros on YouTube. They have a daily driver that they are comparing multiple products on, including glass. The series shows the install of the product too.
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Jan 7, 2021 17:47
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Would this kit be a good choice for babby's first detail? I'm just detailing to make the car look nice for sale. https://www.amazon.com/Meguiars-G55032SP-Complete-Car-Care/dp/B0012ZEZ8A
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Jan 8, 2021 21:10
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Not for nothing, but if you're not going to wash except for that one time, maybe just going to a detail shop once would do?
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Jan 9, 2021 02:04
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its probably ok but i would never recommend a classic claybar at this point, too tedious to use. also a huge pain in the rear end to throw it away if it dries out or falls on the ground. synthetic claybars are amazing.
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Jan 9, 2021 04:34
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Evil SpongeBob posted:Not for nothing, but if you're not going to wash except for that one time, maybe just going to a detail shop once would do? That seems like it would probably cost a few hundred dollars wouldn't it?
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Jan 9, 2021 07:57
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Yeah, but it's amazing how a starter kit turns into "well, I should buy a clay bar, now I need a DA polisher" as evidenced by my garage locker that's running out of space.
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Jan 9, 2021 08:38
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I think the kit is in a weird spot where it is more than a basic wash, but not enough for long term car maintenance. If this is just for you to sell one car, sure. Your arm is going to fall off if you try it all in one day, but you can get it done. I've never used that brand of clay, but that's the only thing that sets off an alarm. With clay you run the risk of creating micro marring since the clay is an abrasive. Common thought is that if you are going to use clay you will also run a buffer. I guess that's what the scratch x is trying to accomplish, but again your arm will hate you if you try and tackle manually. If you are going to keep the car a while, or use this kit on future replacement cars, I'd look for something like a kit from the Rag Company (although they look out of stock right now) or AutoGeek which always has some form of a 20% off coupon going on. https://www.theragcompany.com/microfiber-towel-kit-everyday-value/ https://www.theragcompany.com/gold-enthusiast-auto-detailing-microfiber-kit/ https://www.autogeek.net/griots-brilliant-finish-kit.html https://www.autogeek.net/car-wash-bucket-kits.html
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Jan 9, 2021 18:01
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So I bought some very nice denim jeans that immediately blue'd up my wife's tan/sand GLC300 leather interior (MBtex? gently caress if I know). What sort of cleaner should I be using to remove the dye from the surface of the leather? And if it's MB-tex, how can I tell the difference aside from checking the option codes as we bought it used, and would we use a different cleaner in that case? Dave Inc. fucked around with this message at 23:13 on Jan 14, 2021 |
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Jan 14, 2021 23:06
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I've had good luck with just an assortment of leather cleaners and conditioners, jeans dye usually comes out fairly easily. Real or fake the cleaner shouldn't matter too much if it's not a crazy amount of dye transfer. Always wash your jeans before driving in a car with tan seats. And try to avoid getting your jeans wet and that should help prevent dye transfer.
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Jan 14, 2021 23:27
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Bajaha posted:I've had good luck with just an assortment of leather cleaners and conditioners, jeans dye usually comes out fairly easily. Real or fake the cleaner shouldn't matter too much if it's not a crazy amount of dye transfer. But my personal fade!
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Jan 14, 2021 23:56
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Bajaha posted:I've had good luck with just an assortment of leather cleaners and conditioners, jeans dye usually comes out fairly easily. Real or fake the cleaner shouldn't matter too much if it's not a crazy amount of dye transfer. Yeah I use the Mother’s spray stuff for spot work and it’s pretty good. Leatherique if you want to go all out but that’s quite a hassle.
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Jan 15, 2021 00:12
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What’s the best way to wash a car in the winter? I got a new to me but old to the world Subaru and the paint and body are in great shape but quite dirty. I’d like to get it all clean and put some hybrid ceramic wax on it and clean it frequently to keep salt off of it. In the summer I’d go at it with a bucket of soapy water and the hose, use bug/tar remover where that poo poo is caked on, get it as clean as possible, then put on a coat of wax, but it’s loving cold out there and I’m not sure I should be spraying it down while it’s freezing and/or getting myself wet and freezing my dick off. I do have a warm garage for applying wax.
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Jan 15, 2021 11:34
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ONR for me. If it’s super dirty I go to a pay and spray to knock off all the big stuff and ONR at home in the comfort of your garage. Optimum No Rinse has a green version with wax if you want to combine some steps.
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Jan 15, 2021 16:27
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Coin op wash bays, taking care to spray underneath and just plinking away with the coins until it's clean. You can get fancy and use the drive through touchless ones with the underbody spray but I never felt it was worth the added cost over wand washing at the coin ops.
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Jan 15, 2021 16:30
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