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SkunkDuster posted:Anyway, I posted my first video on the new channel to get the ball rolling. I skip around a lot in the instructions when building models and save a lot of steps for the very end of the build to avoid breaking fragile parts. Then, I forget poo poo and wonder where all the leftover parts go. This video is about taking a methodical approach to building efficiently and not forgetting to go back and do those steps you skipped. I'd love to hear any feedback. Good, bad, ugly...it all helps. This is a nice method, I should try this, as it would also force me to start using a notebook for my models which I know will be helpful.
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Oct 25, 2020 12:55
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| # ? May 16, 2024 20:32 |
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When lockdown started, I began a friday night ritual with some friends. To get everyone to show up... I bought gundam for everyone, and we spent the first couple nights building stuff. It was good. Gundam is easy, as all the colors a molded in. And all I had to do was make sure people had nippers to make the process go ok. Now, I just ordered a bunch of kits from china. The kit parts are easy. The kit supplies.. are less easy. At $8 per bottle, it's less easy to get people model glue. This brings me to the question I have. What.. is the commercial name for styrene glue? Or what common household chemicals should I be looking at. I"m looking to give everyone some ~super thin~ solvent based glue so they can assemble these planes. Research says MEK, or Laquer Thinner should do the job. But.. this is SA. I'm here because there's a damned good chance there's smarter people than me here. :-) What's the cheapest way I can get these people decent model glue?
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Oct 26, 2020 05:21
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Gewehr 43 posted:Done at last! Nice job! The weathering on the landing gear looks great
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Oct 26, 2020 05:31
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Nerobro posted:When lockdown started, I began a friday night ritual with some friends. To get everyone to show up... I bought gundam for everyone, and we spent the first couple nights building stuff. The closest thing you can buy to "official" styrene cement is Methylene Chloride. You can find it at sign-making shops, science supply shops, or shops that cater to the movie/fx industry. A liter can be had for less than $20, and that's pretty much enough for a lifetime. SciGrip/WeldOn #3 and #4 work well on styrene too, and are a bit easier to come by than pure Methylene Chloride. #3 and #4 are similar, #3 is just hotter and works faster and more aggressively.
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Oct 26, 2020 06:48
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Nerobro posted:When lockdown started, I began a friday night ritual with some friends. To get everyone to show up... I bought gundam for everyone, and we spent the first couple nights building stuff. Having looked at the sds for tamiya super thin it’s a 50/50 mix of acetone and butyl acetate. Acetone May do the job by itself but I can’t say as I haven’t tested it. Other options are things like weld on as it comes in a larger container but once again I don’t know how feasible this would be.
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Oct 26, 2020 06:53
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Adam Savage did a build with sheet styrene and he used Weld On #3
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Oct 26, 2020 07:40
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If your friends aren't regularly handling dangerous chemicals, they probably shouldn't gently caress around with MEK.
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Oct 26, 2020 14:02
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grassy gnoll posted:If your friends aren't regularly handling dangerous chemicals, they probably shouldn't gently caress around with MEK. Truth. MEK is nasty nasty stuff.
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Oct 26, 2020 15:22
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As someone who used to use a lot of Methylene Chloride (MEK) in a previous job I would agree with posts above recommending you avoid it for amateurs. Weld-On comes in much larger quantities than specialist cement. Check art supply stores that cater to architects for what cement they carry. Another option, if you can find it for your friends is Micro Weld by Microscale industries. I mostly know them for their decal setting solution but this cement is interesting stuff. It's not as 'hot' as most thin model cements but it's non-toxic, has no harsh odour, and is thin enough to wick itself in between most joints. Setting time is slower than the toxic cements. https://www.sunwardhobbies.ca/microscale-micro-weld-mi-6/
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Oct 27, 2020 12:02
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Methylene Chloride and MEK are two different things. And when you start dealing with larger quantities of chemical, there's no real difference in danger level between MEK, Methylene Chloride, and Weld-On. All will mess you up if you don't treat them with respect.
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Oct 27, 2020 17:33
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I bought a pint of weld-on and the correct dispenser bottles. $25 is a lot better than $60.
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Oct 27, 2020 18:48
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Finished this today, AFV Club 1:35 FV107 Scimitar:      I'm normally a Warhammer guy and have only ever done a few scale models years ago (a couple 1:72 aircraft and some bandai star wars stuff), but recently got the urge to do some scale British armour. I'm pretty pleased with how it came out, it was a tricky kit compared to what I'm used to. Vinyl tracks suck, and painting multicam is a pain in the arse, but the helmet scrim on the soldiers came out well I think thanks to advice from this thread. Challenger 2 next.
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Oct 29, 2020 15:58
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That looks really great. The vehicle, figures, and setting all mesh really well and are very convincing. Well done!
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Oct 29, 2020 16:34
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Oh nice! I have a soft spot for the CVR(T) series ever since getting the Airfix 1/76 one as a waaaay too young kid for something that loving frustrating.
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Oct 29, 2020 16:48
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I'm working on the MiniArt US Tractor D7, and it starts by building the engine. I'm 98 parts into the build and still haven't finished the engine. And looking forward, it appears each track link is 5 different parts. This is... A bit much.
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Oct 29, 2020 19:01
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But them details, yo. Edit for content: A page back or so, someone mentioned David Parker's book "Crew School" that talks about painting, modifying, or sculpting figures from scratch. After completing the Avenger vignette, I decided the next thing I want to learn is how to customize figures and/or sculpt them from scratch. I've had a lot of diorama ideas floating around in my head for years that have been deep-sixed due to a lack of compatible figures. So, my next project is going to be a diorama that starts down the road of light figure customization, some tank crews and tank riders with some custom bits sculpted for effect. Certainly more practice is necessary, but for a first try, I'm tremendously happy with how things have turned out. I know the content of his book is intimidating, the techniques really aren't that hard. If I can do this crap in a remotely passable way, anyone can. The head for the loader. His body was largely unaltered.  The commander. Both arms were done by cutting the hands off of kit parts and gluing them to an armature of copper wire. Despite looking like he's in the middle of a hula performance, he'll be leaning back in the tank's cupola with his arm resting on one of the hatch halves.   The gunner. One arm and a leg were done here. The pocket on his left leg was still soft and uncured in this pic and I later accidentally smashed it, so I had to resculpt it. Happily, the 2nd try turned out even better. If I can offer a tip, it's use a little extra hardener in the epoxy putty (Apoxie Sculpt in my case) and wait until one appendage is completely cured before attempting the next. Else, I always bump an uncured part while sculpting the next. Anyway, this guy will be leaning out of a hatch over the glacis plate of the tank.   I painted up the commander last night and, while not my best face painting job, overall the sculpting is very very convincing. 
Chuck_D fucked around with this message at 20:00 on Oct 29, 2020 |
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Oct 29, 2020 19:32
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Looks great! I'm still very much struggling with faces.
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Oct 29, 2020 22:32
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Ensign Expendable posted:Looks great! I'm still very much struggling with faces. Thank you. And same. The guy above is a stand out. The other two I've done so far aren't as good. While I'm happy with the above, I haven't reached a point of consistency yet. More practice, I suppose. Sadly, I think I'm approaching the point where I'll need an optivisor for figures. My eyes are straining pretty hard on the super fine details. drat middle age.
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Oct 29, 2020 22:55
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Hot drat! I got a hotwire foam cutting table, and this thing is dope. Needed some bricks for an upcoming project, and now I can turn them out for pennies. And another huge project germinating in my mind right now that will use a lot of foam substructure. This was the one I got, works great. https://www.amazon.ca/gp/product/B07FPKTJ3D 
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Oct 31, 2020 08:17
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Nice! What did it cost you? There's no price at the Amazon link as it's currently unavailable. Been thinking about getting one as I drive into more groundwork and dioramas. I am absolutely running out of space in my workshop though, so I worry I wouldn't have anywhere to put something like that.
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Oct 31, 2020 13:05
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Gewehr 43 posted:Nice! What did it cost you? There's no price at the Amazon link as it's currently unavailable. Been thinking about getting one as I drive into more groundwork and dioramas. I am absolutely running out of space in my workshop though, so I worry I wouldn't have anywhere to put something like that. It was $119, with no tax for some reason. First time I think I've ever seen that. If you're in the US, they have this one and several more in stock. The Proxxon one is supposed to be quite good as well, but it has a smaller cutter area, and less options for cutting angle. https://www.amazon.com/s?k=hot+wire+cutter&ref=nb_sb_noss_2
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Oct 31, 2020 13:18
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Two days without any new posts, so here is some filler for you. A lot of people post their really great builds and hide the crappy ones which can be intimidating to new modelers, so here are some of my earlier models, warts and all. Hopefully you can learn from my mistakes so you don't make the same ones. https://www.youtube.com/watch?v=UsnwyexoA9E
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Nov 3, 2020 03:50
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Picked up a project that I bailed on a while ago cause the number of decals started to get me down. The decals are now done and the body is cleared so it's now time to let it sit for a bit till I polish it up. I ended up clear coating the chrome plated roof of the car to seal in the decals and by a happy coincidence the scratches that where intoduced during decalling are still visible but matches whats sitting on display in the museum atm.    That front grill needs a little more work but I'm happy with how its come out so far especially given I didn't have anything but normal cotton buds to lay down the decals in the narrow section at the top of the grill.
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Nov 4, 2020 09:39
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The carbon fibre pattern is a decal?
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Nov 5, 2020 03:58
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Scut posted:The carbon fibre pattern is a decal? Yeah it is. Building as many race cars as I do means that I go through quite a lot of it.
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Nov 5, 2020 04:10
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Are gundams welcome here
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Nov 8, 2020 14:54
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Sure. There's also a Gunpla thread where you will get more robot-focused feedback and advice.
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Nov 8, 2020 16:09
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That's good timing because I wanted to cross post this Gundam I made this week. Gundam kits are always a pleasure to put together and I really enjoy painting them up like realish AFVs instead of fancy anime colors. I used a new (to me) product for masking the camoflage called Parafilm. I was really impressed with it. It's a stretchy plastic flim that is covered with parafin wax, when you stretch it the wax becomes slightly tacky and it can be pressed against a surface to cling there. There's no adhesive so it won't pull up your previous layers of paint, it's ultra thin so there's no paint buildup at the edges, it's flexible and can easily be cut with a hobby knife. The only problem is that since it's so thin and the wax is so light that you have to be careful to spray slightly away from the edge or you'll blow paint under it. Bucnasti posted:I had the week off and put this boy together for the Grunt Build.'
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Nov 9, 2020 00:30
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Just a quick PSA here. If you build airplanes of any scale and don't own a jig, you're really missing out. I bought one from Victory Models during the Avenger build and I now don't know how I ever got by without one.
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Nov 11, 2020 21:44
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Bucnasti posted:That's good timing because I wanted to cross post this Gundam I made this week. That's fantastic. Gundams are my main thing and I love seeing these kinds of paint jobs on them.
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Nov 12, 2020 01:12
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Bucnasti posted:I used a new (to me) product for masking the camoflage called Parafilm. I was really impressed with it. It's a stretchy plastic flim that is covered with parafin wax, when you stretch it the wax becomes slightly tacky and it can be pressed against a surface to cling there.
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Nov 12, 2020 01:17
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Pierzak posted:If it's the stuff they use to cover test tubes and other lab glassware, I can confirm it's awesome. And thanks for the reminder, I need to find where I stashed it. Yeah it says "Laboratory Film" on the label. I got it from Micromark, but maybe there's a better source.
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Nov 12, 2020 18:02
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Any lab supply place will have it, and probably for a lot less. Also good places for small mixing cups, pipettes, etc. without the "model tool markup".
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Nov 12, 2020 19:14
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MrUnderbridge posted:Any lab supply place will have it, and probably for a lot less. Also good places for small mixing cups, pipettes, etc. without the "model tool markup". Does it leave any residue on the model? For mixing cups, the best deal I've found is bulk clear plastic condiment cups / portion cups with lids from Amazon or a restaurant supply store. I use the cups for mixing paints for airbrushing and thinning oils for washing and the lids when I only need a little bit of paint mixed or thinned. Not the most mucho ecological method, but it is cheap and convenient.
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Nov 13, 2020 03:10
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SkunkDuster posted:Does it leave any residue on the model? Soufflé cups, you can get a few hundred for like 
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Nov 13, 2020 04:09
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Okay mister fancy pants. You just go ahead and have your butler fetch you some Soufflé cups and the rest of us will get by with regular condiment cups.
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Nov 13, 2020 04:42
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SkunkDuster posted:Okay mister fancy pants. You just go ahead and have your butler fetch you some Soufflé cups and the rest of us will get by with regular condiment cups. “Condiment cups” actually works as a search term for them on Amazon now, when I was trying to buy them several years ago the right thing didn’t come up if you didn’t use the fancy word. 
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Nov 13, 2020 04:56
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Just don't get the styrene cups. A little lacquer thinner and you have both a mess and an "intetesting" addition to your paint mix.
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Nov 13, 2020 16:09
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These are the the cups you want. Perfect size, good flex so they don't crack when mixing, and they come with lids if you need to store mixes for a week or two. https://www.amazon.com/Reditainer-Plastic-Disposable-Portion-Perfect/dp/B009VSFZC0/ref=pd_bia_nav_t_2?ie=UTF8&refRID=0CTH5507EDFVNMACZC1G
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Nov 13, 2020 18:10
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| # ? May 16, 2024 20:32 |
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Bloody Hedgehog posted:These are the the cups you want. Perfect size, good flex so they don't crack when mixing, and they come with lids if you need to store mixes for a week or two. exactly these
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Nov 13, 2020 19:32
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