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e.pilot
Nov 20, 2011

sometimes maybe good
sometimes maybe shit
If you just want a single speed and are fine with building it up, pick up any old frame and go nuts.

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sweat poteto
Feb 16, 2006

Everybody's gotta learn sometime
I could see $1,900 with quality name brand parts including rack and fenders. You could knock off a few hundred by going with cheaper parts or trawling ebay, but it's not likely to get down to the cost of a high volume complete like the All City.

Peggotty
May 9, 2014

Isn't the steamroller frame $500? $1400 for parts sounds like a lot unless you picked expensive wheels.

bicievino
Feb 5, 2015

Building up with msrp parts always seems to cost at least $1000 more than a comparable complete bike.

Part of that is OEM pricing on parts, part of that is the complete build cheaping out on parts that you wouldn't when buying it yourself.

sweat poteto
Feb 16, 2006

Everybody's gotta learn sometime
It adds up pretty quick:

Frame & fork: $500
Wheels, skewers, tires, tubes/tubeless: $400
Headset, stem, bars, tape: $200
Chainset, pedals, bb, chain, cog: $300
Levers, cables, brakes $150
Saddle, seatpost, clamp: $150
Rack, fenders: $200

You can quibble here and there but that's how a $500 frameset becomes a $1900 complete build.

JHomer722
Jul 30, 2006

And you, you ridiculous people, you expect me to help you.

Okay, thanks! Yeah my first instinct was that it seemed high for the frame, but then I read through the invoice and there’s just a few more components that go into even a single speed than I accounted for. If only I still lived above the the bike mechanic who knew lots of people who owned too many bikes.

Now I need to decide if I can justify the cost. Which shouldn’t be hard because not having a bike is lame as hell.

DevCore
Jul 16, 2003

Schooled by Satan


Yeah complete bikes are always a better deal unless you already have the parts lying around.

I've got a Litespeed Firenze with a SRAM Rival groupset that I like.
Two problems - 1) It's an early 2000's bike so the clearances for tires are built for like 23-25c tops which makes it a rough ride and 2) the wheel spacing makes it extremely squirrelly.

I want to get a new bike, so my question is: can I keep the group set and slap it o n any modern frame? How do I know what's compatible.
I would also like to switch to a disc brake with a riser bar.

Also what's the state of bike materials. I hear Aluminum is coming back with hydro-formed frames? Are they now outpacing steel? Is TI still relevant?

paberu
Jun 23, 2013

What is a good floor pump recommendation that has both a digital gauge and a good fuss free chuck?

I've been using a lezyne road drive or such but it's gauge is kinda crap (especially with my mtb) that I'm always needing to use a separate gauge post fact to dial in the right pressure, I'd like to eliminate that extra step.

e.pilot
Nov 20, 2011

sometimes maybe good
sometimes maybe shit
What’s your budget, if it’s approaching anything over $100 just get a compressor.

paberu
Jun 23, 2013

I live in an apartment and want something compact that I can also take in the car to trails.

bicievino
Feb 5, 2015

paberu posted:

What is a good floor pump recommendation that has both a digital gauge and a good fuss free chuck?

I've been using a lezyne road drive or such but it's gauge is kinda crap (especially with my mtb) that I'm always needing to use a separate gauge post fact to dial in the right pressure, I'd like to eliminate that extra step.

I'm not a specialized fanboy but the specialized floor pump is just about perfect.
https://www.specialized.com/us/en/air-tool-comp-floor-pump/p/174143?color=277400-174143&searchText=47220-2100

Salt Fish
Sep 11, 2003

Cybernetic Crumb

paberu posted:

What is a good floor pump recommendation that has both a digital gauge and a good fuss free chuck?

I've been using a lezyne road drive or such but it's gauge is kinda crap (especially with my mtb) that I'm always needing to use a separate gauge post fact to dial in the right pressure, I'd like to eliminate that extra step.

If you're going to be doing presta and schrader I would pick one with 2 chucks. I avoid the combo ones because I've had issues with them especially on my bikes that take schrader @ 100PSI. As far as a digital gauge I don't think they're more accurate, just more of a pain in the rear end to maintain. If you need high accuracy, especially at low pressures I would get a separate gauge instead of an integrated one. I have a slime brand dial gauge for that; one for low pressure that does 0-30PSI and one for high pressure that does 30-200 PSI. I don't think most gauges are going to be super accurate for both very high and very low ranges.

bicievino
Feb 5, 2015

DevCore posted:

Yeah complete bikes are always a better deal unless you already have the parts lying around.

I've got a Litespeed Firenze with a SRAM Rival groupset that I like.
Two problems - 1) It's an early 2000's bike so the clearances for tires are built for like 23-25c tops which makes it a rough ride and 2) the wheel spacing makes it extremely squirrelly.

I want to get a new bike, so my question is: can I keep the group set and slap it o n any modern frame? How do I know what's compatible.
I would also like to switch to a disc brake with a riser bar.

Also what's the state of bike materials. I hear Aluminum is coming back with hydro-formed frames? Are they now outpacing steel? Is TI still relevant?

You probably could slap the group on any modern rim brake frame, BUT:
it'll be impossible to sell that bike as frame only if you scavenge the parts off it - better to sell it complete and get a complete new bike. If you're looking at going disc you should be going hydro disc, which means you need most of a new groupset anyway.

All materials can be good and can also be lovely.
Cheap aluminum is better than cheap steel.
Good aluminum is just as nice to ride as good steel, but obviously has different characteristics that may or may not make it the right choice for you.
Ti is relevant in so far as dentists still exist.
Carbon is good but there's a floor of pricepoint that's worth considering, and some applications where it really doesn't make sense.

evil_bunnY
Apr 2, 2003

e.pilot posted:




In the same prismatic vinyl as the wheel.

amazing

paberu
Jun 23, 2013

Salt Fish posted:

If you're going to be doing presta and schrader I would pick one with 2 chucks. I avoid the combo ones because I've had issues with them especially on my bikes that take schrader @ 100PSI. As far as a digital gauge I don't think they're more accurate, just more of a pain in the rear end to maintain. If you need high accuracy, especially at low pressures I would get a separate gauge instead of an integrated one. I have a slime brand dial gauge for that; one for low pressure that does 0-30PSI and one for high pressure that does 30-200 PSI. I don't think most gauges are going to be super accurate for both very high and very low ranges.

I currently use a smartgauge D2, but it's really annoying over pumping both tires and then bleeding them out with it. I'm hoping to remove that need by getting an easy to read digital gauge so I can just quickly get the tires where needed and head out. My current pump's range is 0 - 220 psi and that's just waaay too big for a mtb that needs something in low 20's and a road bike that sits around low 80's. The D2 gauge is kinda fiddly to use too so I don't mind spending some money to remove the annoyance.

kimbo305
Jun 9, 2007

actually, yeah, I am a little mad

JHomer722 posted:

Okay, thanks! Yeah my first instinct was that it seemed high for the frame, but then I read through the invoice and there’s just a few more components that go into even a single speed than I accounted for. If only I still lived above the the bike mechanic who knew lots of people who owned too many bikes.

Now I need to decide if I can justify the cost. Which shouldn’t be hard because not having a bike is lame as hell.

Not sure if this was relevant to your move, but packing and shipping a bike might only run you 150-250, depending on how much a shop charges to pack, and then to ship through BikeFlights (intermediary using Fedex).

bicievino
Feb 5, 2015

My bad, I didn't read closely enough and glossed over that you're looking for a digital gauge.

I agree with prior takes that a digital gauge isn't inherently more accurate than anything else, but if you really want one, I'd probably go for the digital Topeak JoeBlow. All the lezynes put the readout all the way at the bottom, harder to see, and also their chuck loves to unscrew valve cores. Silca puts it at the top but is irrationally expensive.

JHomer722
Jul 30, 2006

And you, you ridiculous people, you expect me to help you.

kimbo305 posted:

Not sure if this was relevant to your move, but packing and shipping a bike might only run you 150-250, depending on how much a shop charges to pack, and then to ship through BikeFlights (intermediary using Fedex).

That’s good info, but the bottom bracket is loctited in so I don’t think it can be disassembled, easily at least. I bought the bike used and rode it through 7 Boston winters, so it was nearing retirement anyway. I was thankfully able to stash it at my parents place, so at least I’ll have something to ride when I go back to visit.

paberu
Jun 23, 2013

bicievino posted:

I agree with prior takes that a digital gauge isn't inherently more accurate than anything else, but if you really want one, I'd probably go for the digital Topeak JoeBlow. All the lezynes put the readout all the way at the bottom, harder to see, and also their chuck loves to unscrew valve cores. Silca puts it at the top but is irrationally expensive.

Joeblow Pro Digital looks to fit the bill, seems availability is non existent atm on it.

DevCore
Jul 16, 2003

Schooled by Satan


bicievino posted:

You probably could slap the group on any modern rim brake frame, BUT:
it'll be impossible to sell that bike as frame only if you scavenge the parts off it - better to sell it complete and get a complete new bike. If you're looking at going disc you should be going hydro disc, which means you need most of a new groupset anyway.

All materials can be good and can also be lovely.
Cheap aluminum is better than cheap steel.
Good aluminum is just as nice to ride as good steel, but obviously has different characteristics that may or may not make it the right choice for you.
Ti is relevant in so far as dentists still exist.
Carbon is good but there's a floor of pricepoint that's worth considering, and some applications where it really doesn't make sense.

Thanks, yeah that was my guess. I'd have a slapdash of individual components that I'd have trouble selling and would need to buy the remaining pieces.
I was wanting too going with hybrid disc brakes (cable actuated - hydro powered and localized at the caliper housing).

So Ti isn't much of a player anymore? Is there a reason? I thought it was a "best of" aluminum/steel/carbon material.

bicievino
Feb 5, 2015

DevCore posted:

Thanks, yeah that was my guess. I'd have a slapdash of individual components that I'd have trouble selling and would need to buy the remaining pieces.
I was wanting too going with hybrid disc brakes (cable actuated - hydro powered and localized at the caliper housing).

So Ti isn't much of a player anymore? Is there a reason? I thought it was a "best of" aluminum/steel/carbon material.

I mean, it's fine?
You can make a really nice custom bike with it.
You can make a really nice stock bike with it.

It's fallen out of favor for roadies because you can't make a stiff, light, and aero bike with it, the way you can with carbon or (kinda) hydroformed alu (hard to get all three with alu).
The big issue is aero since it's harder to do shaped tubes. But it's great for gravel and cx and other things where aerodynamics aren't such a big deal. There's no getting around the fact that it's much more expensive than aluminum and steel with only relatively small improvements in function (durability, theoretically, weight - maybe a tad), and is usually slightly more expensive and at best a side-grade to a carbon frame for the same application.

Salt Fish
Sep 11, 2003

Cybernetic Crumb
For anyone thinking about doing a century:

https://www.youtube.com/watch?v=FS4GZCUWgcA

Weembles
Apr 19, 2004

I'm sliding into a "european cycling documentary" phase. Anyone have recommendations?

Here's what I've watched so far:

The Stars and the Water Carriers

https://www.youtube.com/watch?v=ZUIr9LG1juw

A Sunday in Hell

https://www.youtube.com/watch?v=zxBTVU9JDrA

I'll accept suggestions where every single man doesn't have huge sideburns and Eddie Merckx, but both are appreciated.

Oldsrocket_27
Apr 28, 2009
Anyone else scroll through facebook marketplace from time to time to see what ridiculous bike stuff comes up? I was struck by the discrepancy between these two listings:

Free:

About an hours drive away on a farm somewhere. No mention of what size or other photos, or any other information other than that the tires are flat. Tempting to ask/ just go get it, but I don't really need it.

$500 $450!

New! Never used!

e.pilot
Nov 20, 2011

sometimes maybe good
sometimes maybe shit

Oldsrocket_27 posted:

$500 $450!

New! Never used!

yoooooooooooo :popeye:

kimbo305
Jun 9, 2007

actually, yeah, I am a little mad

Salt Fish posted:

For anyone thinking about doing a century:

https://www.youtube.com/watch?v=FS4GZCUWgcA

I’ve put a huge seatpost on a BMX to try to pedal it seated. It felt pretty wrong, possibly because it still wasn’t high enough. I would not do that for 100mi; that’s for sure.

evil_bunnY
Apr 2, 2003

bicievino posted:

I mean, it's fine?
You can make a really nice custom bike with it.
You can make a really nice stock bike with it.

It's fallen out of favor for roadies because you can't make a stiff, light, and aero bike with it, the way you can with carbon or (kinda) hydroformed alu (hard to get all three with alu).
The big issue is aero since it's harder to do shaped tubes. But it's great for gravel and cx and other things where aerodynamics aren't such a big deal. There's no getting around the fact that it's much more expensive than aluminum and steel with only relatively small improvements in function (durability, theoretically, weight - maybe a tad), and is usually slightly more expensive and at best a side-grade to a carbon frame for the same application.
This is all good info. The only place to me where Ti makes sense is if you want a pretty bike that needs to be able to take a hit without requiring NDT to figure out if it's ok.

It's great (but expensive) for gravel, hardtail and commuting bikes.

El Laucha
Oct 9, 2012


Weembles posted:

I'll accept suggestions where every single man doesn't have huge sideburns and Eddie Merckx, but both are appreciated.

Not all are what you are looking for, but I liked these:

Sunday in hell
Hell on wheels
Slaying the Badger
Icarus
Wonderful Losers
Lance
Rising from ashes
Bicycle dreams
Pantani: The Accidental Death of a Cyclist
Chasing legends
My italian secret

Also a good short series on Netflix: El dia menos pensado

Weembles
Apr 19, 2004


This is awesome. Thanks!

tylertfb
Mar 3, 2004

Time.Space.Transmat.

Weembles posted:

I'm sliding into a "european cycling documentary" phase. Anyone have recommendations?

Here's what I've watched so far:

The Stars and the Water Carriers

https://www.youtube.com/watch?v=ZUIr9LG1juw

A Sunday in Hell

https://www.youtube.com/watch?v=zxBTVU9JDrA

I'll accept suggestions where every single man doesn't have huge sideburns and Eddie Merckx, but both are appreciated.

The 'De Ronde' behind the scenes mini-docs about the Tour of Flanders are great. They did one for editions #100 - 103 and they're all enthralling. Lots of footage showing how the race is put on and raced. The DS in-car footage is great, and even knowing the outcomes of all the races, I was on the edge of my seat watching it all unfold:
https://www.youtube.com/watch?v=XFqfqO6CQko
https://www.youtube.com/watch?v=KNpvsJ3_OJo
https://www.youtube.com/watch?v=j8iHLADDMKQ
https://www.youtube.com/watch?v=BpiFLhmMFNk

bicievino
Feb 5, 2015

tylertfb posted:

The 'De Ronde' behind the scenes mini-docs about the Tour of Flanders are great. They did one for editions #100 - 103 and they're all enthralling. Lots of footage showing how the race is put on and raced. The DS in-car footage is great, and even knowing the outcomes of all the races, I was on the edge of my seat watching it all unfold:
https://www.youtube.com/watch?v=XFqfqO6CQko
https://www.youtube.com/watch?v=KNpvsJ3_OJo
https://www.youtube.com/watch?v=j8iHLADDMKQ
https://www.youtube.com/watch?v=BpiFLhmMFNk

Those are SO GOOD.

Cannon_Fodder
Jul 17, 2007

"Hey, where did Steve go?"
Design by Kamoc
I like the long-form videos from GCN as good background noise.

The Dirty Kanza was very enjoyable. Ymmv!

EDIT: I was totally wrong! It was this group: https://www.youtube.com/watch?v=NgBYSXh3V0Q

Anza Borrego
Feb 11, 2005

Ovis canadensis nelsoni

Cannon_Fodder posted:

I like the long-form videos from GCN as good background noise.

The Dirty Kanza was very enjoyable. Ymmv!

EDIT: I was totally wrong! It was this group: https://www.youtube.com/watch?v=NgBYSXh3V0Q

The EF films are well made and have been my first foray into cycling films. Lachlan Morton seems like a cool dude.

Anza Borrego fucked around with this message at 22:02 on Nov 17, 2020

evil_bunnY
Apr 2, 2003

tylertfb posted:

The 'De Ronde' behind the scenes mini-docs about the Tour of Flanders are great. They did one for editions #100 - 103 and they're all enthralling. Lots of footage showing how the race is put on and raced. The DS in-car footage is great, and even knowing the outcomes of all the races, I was on the edge of my seat watching it all unfold:
https://www.youtube.com/watch?v=XFqfqO6CQko
https://www.youtube.com/watch?v=KNpvsJ3_OJo
https://www.youtube.com/watch?v=j8iHLADDMKQ
https://www.youtube.com/watch?v=BpiFLhmMFNk
These are v good every time

DevCore
Jul 16, 2003

Schooled by Satan


bicievino posted:

I mean, it's fine?
You can make a really nice custom bike with it.
You can make a really nice stock bike with it.

It's fallen out of favor for roadies because you can't make a stiff, light, and aero bike with it, the way you can with carbon or (kinda) hydroformed alu (hard to get all three with alu).
The big issue is aero since it's harder to do shaped tubes. But it's great for gravel and cx and other things where aerodynamics aren't such a big deal. There's no getting around the fact that it's much more expensive than aluminum and steel with only relatively small improvements in function (durability, theoretically, weight - maybe a tad), and is usually slightly more expensive and at best a side-grade to a carbon frame for the same application.

Thanks again!
Aero isn't a huge concern for me. This is primarily going to be a town traveler (1-10 mile trips) and occasionally some longer joy rides (30-100 miles).
My biggest concerns are comfort (in both fit - has always been difficult for me and longevity), weight and diversity.

Literally Lewis Hamilton
Feb 22, 2005



Anza Borrego posted:

The EF films are well made and have been my first foray into cycling films. Lachlan Morton seems like a cool dude.

The only thing that bothers me with Lachlan is the amount of times he says "like" in every sentence. Dude is a monster though. His Badlands race time is unbelievable compared to anyone else.

a loathsome bird
Aug 15, 2004
Been wanting to do this ride for a while, feels good to have it done. A whopping 938ft of elevation, all from bridges or levees- lots of these roads are below sea level, particularly Old Highway 51 on the west side of the lake. Luckily we didn't have to ride through any flooding over there or in the Rigolets.






In the end it actually felt easier than I was expecting. Wore the trash kit, ate lots of trash, rode not-very-fast.

Salt Fish posted:

For anyone thinking about doing a century:

https://www.youtube.com/watch?v=FS4GZCUWgcA

:krad: I haven't checked his channel in years, awesome to see him going for it. That 15 to 100 mile ramp sounds pretty brutal.

a loathsome bird fucked around with this message at 03:26 on Nov 18, 2020

bicievino
Feb 5, 2015

a loathsome bird posted:

Been wanting to do this ride for a while, feels good to have it done. A whopping 938ft of elevation, all from bridges or levees- lots of these roads are below sea level, particularly Old Highway 51 on the west side of the lake. Luckily we didn't have to ride through any flooding over there or in the Rigolets.






In the end it actually felt easier than I was expecting. Wore the trash kit, ate lots of trash, rode not-very-fast.


:krad: I haven't checked his channel in years, awesome to see him going for it. That 15 to 100 mile ramp sounds pretty brutal.

Wow, awesome ride.

Anza Borrego
Feb 11, 2005

Ovis canadensis nelsoni

a loathsome bird posted:

Been wanting to do this ride for a while, feels good to have it done. A whopping 938ft of elevation, all from bridges or levees- lots of these roads are below sea level, particularly Old Highway 51 on the west side of the lake. Luckily we didn't have to ride through any flooding over there or in the Rigolets.

In the end it actually felt easier than I was expecting. Wore the trash kit, ate lots of trash, rode not-very-fast.

I’m grew up in Baton Rouge, this seems like a cool ride. Definitely the right time of year for it. Nice work!

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numberoneposter
Feb 19, 2014

How much do I cum? The answer might surprise you!

Literally Lewis Hamilton posted:

Hook me up with some favs, pretty please
re: eurobeat

https://drive.google.com/drive/folders/1KPJ2jAW3yA2Y-YK9IQoSFB2l5e0N02Oq?usp=sharing

does this work????

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