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Butterfly Valley posted:I wouldn't call ray tracing weird and proprietary, given the amount of new games that are incorporating it at this point. Also DLSS makes a huge difference where games have it, and AMD evidently think the wind is blowing that way as they're developing their own ray tracing and upscaling tech, but their tech is a generation behind nvidias. No, it's not that ray tracing itself is weird, it's that some games (Wolfenstein Youngblood for example) use a raytracing technique proprietary to Nvidia cards and it hasn't been patched/made accessible yet: https://gizmodo.com/amd-rx-6800-xt-and-rx-6800-review-amd-finally-does-ray-1845690485
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Nov 18, 2020 21:39
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A few quick questions for a build I'm parting out: - Are folks getting a gpu support bracket for their 3080/3090s? - How do I tell if a RAM is dual-rank? - The motherboard I'm looking at has weird differences listed in the specs for the m.2 slots: quote:M2_1 slot (from AMD® Processor) supports PCIe 4.0 x4 (3rd Gen AMD Ryzen™ Desktop Processors) or PCIe 3.0 x4 (2nd Gen AMD Ryzen™/ Ryzen™ 4000 G-Series, Ryzen™ with Radeon™ Vega Graphics and 2nd Gen AMD Ryzen™ with Radeon™ Graphics) 2242/2260/2280 storage devices - The mobo also says it has a "1x 3-pin CORSAIR connector". Some googling indicates that this is an RGB fan connector of some kind. What's the intended use for this single connector, and is there an implication for cases/fans I should be looking at given the capability? - I'm looking to grab a Ryzen 9 5900X sometime in the next few months (on the B&H waitlist so I suppose Q2 next year is the backup). What sorts of CPU fans do folks recommend for it in an ATX form factor? I will not likely overclock (much?), but will use heavily multithreaded stats/ml workloads and will game on 1440p. Most of the CPU fans I've grabbed from partspicker trigger a warning that a special mounting bracket will need to be requested by the fan retailer for this mobo?
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Nov 18, 2020 22:05
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Forever_Peace posted:A few quick questions for a build I'm parting out: Corsair tends to have some of the best RGB software/hardware so this doesn’t surprise me. That can power the light of one corsair fan or I think more than one corsair RGB strip daisy chained together. Corsair’s products use proprietary connectors. Corsair sells something called a “node core” which is six of those ports tied to an internal USB 2.0 header. Most people running a bunch of corsair RGB in their case have a node core that came with their case or a commander pro / node core that they purchased. One port doesn’t seem terribly useful, more of a supplement for people that run out of the six ports on the node core.
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Nov 18, 2020 22:27
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spunkshui posted:Corsair tends to have some of the best RGB software/hardware so this doesn’t surprise me. Thanks, this is really useful for the corsair connector! Are there ATX cases that are good with one large fan at the front that could exploit the pin? I've been looking at the Phanteks Eclipse P400A but I'm not tied to it and honestly have no idea about how to think about airflow. From what I gather, the 3080 has one fan that exhausts directly out the back and a second fan that propels hot air up into the RAM/CPU area? My computer will sit in a little desk cubby thing that is pushed pretty close to the wall but has a lot of space out the top. I guess what I'm asking is what is a good fan design + cpu cooler for a top-venting 3080+5900x system, and does it ever make sense for one of the fans to be special (for the corsair plug)?
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Nov 18, 2020 22:41
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Will I be okay with this 550w power supply? I'm carrying it over from my old PC but it's only a month old. Not overclocking or lighting anything up. Also don't plan on upgrading anything for a few years. PCPartPicker Part List CPU: AMD Ryzen 7 3700X 3.6 GHz 8-Core Processor CPU Cooler: be quiet! Pure Rock Slim 35.14 CFM CPU Cooler Motherboard: Asus TUF GAMING B550M-PLUS (WI-FI) Micro ATX AM4 Motherboard Memory: G.Skill Ripjaws V 16 GB (2 x 8 GB) DDR4-3600 CL16 Memory Memory: OLOy WarHawk RGB 16 GB (2 x 8 GB) DDR4-3600 CL18 Memory Storage: Samsung 860 Evo 500 GB 2.5" Solid State Drive Storage: Samsung 860 Evo 500 GB 2.5" Solid State Drive Video Card: MSI GeForce RTX 3070 8 GB GAMING X TRIO Video Card Case: Corsair 275R Airflow ATX Mid Tower Case Power Supply: SeaSonic FOCUS Plus Gold 550 W 80+ Gold Certified Fully Modular ATX Power Supply Generated by PCPartPicker 2020-11-18 16:49 EST-0500 Partpicker estimate is 423w
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Nov 18, 2020 22:52
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The Wiggly Wizard posted:Will I be okay with this 550w power supply? I'm carrying it over from my old PC but it's only a month old. Not overclocking or lighting anything up. Also don't plan on upgrading anything for a few years. So Nvidia recommend 650w for the 3070. But as your estimate suggests, your 550w Seasonic will do the job. The worst that will happen is you might have 1 or 2 occasions when the machine won't be able to power what you're doing and the machine will reset.
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Nov 18, 2020 23:11
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The 3070 is like 220w and the 3700x is a low tdp CPU, you'll be fine.
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Nov 18, 2020 23:15
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Butterfly Valley posted:Idk about cool kid but yes, PCI Express is backwards and forwards compatible. LGD posted:Yes, it should work just fine in the interim - the only thing I'd caution is to make sure your power supply is adequate for the GPU you're eventually going to put in there (likely will be, just the newest generation of GPUs are power hungry) Thank you very much! I’m excited that I’ll be able to start building this weekend! And yup about the PSU, that’s a good reminder! I’m glad PCPartpicker has a power estimate, I’m planning to use that.
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Nov 18, 2020 23:16
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Thom P. Tiers posted:The 3070 is like 220w and the 3700x is a low tdp CPU, you'll be fine. Funso Banjo posted:So Nvidia recommend 650w for the 3070. But as your estimate suggests, your 550w Seasonic will do the job. Cheers
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Nov 18, 2020 23:20
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The Wiggly Wizard posted:Will I be okay with this 550w power supply? I'm carrying it over from my old PC but it's only a month old. Not overclocking or lighting anything up. Also don't plan on upgrading anything for a few years. Not sure about the thread's opinion on this, but I don't think it's a good idea to have two rams with different timings installed. It's probably safer to just pick one and buy 2 of them if you really need more than 16gb.
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Nov 18, 2020 23:56
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Welp it has been a few years since I've updated the old rig. Thanks to everyone that helped me over the last 6 years as when I first started this I hadn't pieced together a PC in over a decade. The below is what I currently have. The only components original from 2014 are the case/mobo/ram/processor. Everyone thing else was updated around 2016ish. PCPartPicker Part List CPU: Intel Core i5-4670 3.4 GHz Quad-Core Processor ($375.27 @ Amazon) CPU Cooler: CRYORIG C7 40.5 CFM CPU Cooler ($66.38 @ Amazon) Motherboard: ASRock B85M Pro4 Micro ATX LGA1150 Motherboard Memory: Crucial Ballistix Sport 8 GB (1 x 8 GB) DDR3-1600 CL9 Memory Storage: Western Digital Caviar Blue 1 TB 3.5" 7200RPM Internal Hard Drive ($44.99 @ Adorama) Case: Silverstone GD05B-USB3.0 HTPC Case ($149.99 @ B&H) Power Supply: EVGA GS 550 W 80+ Gold Certified Fully Modular ATX Power Supply Custom: Nvidia GeForce GTX 1070 8GB Founders Edition Video Card ($449.99) Total: $1086.62 Prices include shipping, taxes, and discounts when available Generated by PCPartPicker 2020-11-18 18:52 EST-0500 There is also a samsung 850evo 500gig in there as well that was added after I "completed" this build. I am looking to upgrade the mobo/processor/ram/harddrive and maybe potentially the case if I can find a slightly bigger case that looks good placed horizontally in an entertainment stand. CPU: AMD Ryzen 5 3600 3.6 GHz 6-Core Processor ($258.64 @ Amazon) CPU Cooler: NZXT Kraken X53 73.11 CFM Liquid CPU Cooler ($119.99 @ Newegg) Motherboard: MSI MAG B550M MORTAR WIFI Micro ATX AM4 Motherboard ($159.99 @ B&H) Memory: Corsair Vengeance LPX 16 GB (2 x 8 GB) DDR4-3600 CL18 Memory ($70.98 @ Amazon) Storage: Samsung 970 Evo 1 TB M.2-2280 NVME Solid State Drive ($129.99 @ Amazon) Total: $739.59 Prices include shipping, taxes, and discounts when available Generated by PCPartPicker 2020-11-18 19:05 EST-0500 I am not 100% set on the budget and could probably go higher if the performance is worth it. I also don't know much about liquid cooling but am looking to keep the system as quiet as I can as our new house doesn't have as big of a living space and the PC can be heard more than it could before. I generally do gaming at 1080p but would like to do FFXIV at 1440p - 4k if that's even possible with current specs. I also do emulation, specifically PS2 and it's starting to hit the limits of what I can do in some games even at 1080p. I know that my processor is probably what's holding back both of those uses as they both tend to be processor heavy. Thanks in advance to everyone that has helped me out in the past and in advance for my new pieces. :EDIT: Also in regards to my power supply is that something I should go ahead and replace? That was 2016 so it's about four years old now going on five probably so I assume yes?
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Nov 19, 2020 01:11
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Is this (or the OEM version) still the go-to PCI-E ethernet card? I'm having problems with Windows periodically resetting my new motherboard's Realtek 2.5 GbE controller, and trying to fix it is slowly driving me insane.
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Nov 19, 2020 03:32
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The Wiggly Wizard posted:Will I be okay with this 550w power supply? I'm carrying it over from my old PC but it's only a month old. Not overclocking or lighting anything up. Also don't plan on upgrading anything for a few years. Funso Banjo posted:So Nvidia recommend 650w for the 3070. But as your estimate suggests, your 550w Seasonic will do the job. For what it's worth: my 3700X and Geforce 1070 idle around 90W and never really draw more than 250ish watts under full load...pretty sure my UPS would last an hour while gaming.  The 3070 will obviously draw more than my 1070, but I imagine you will be fine! No Pants posted:Is this (or the OEM version) still the go-to PCI-E ethernet card? I'm having problems with Windows periodically resetting my new motherboard's Realtek 2.5 GbE controller, and trying to fix it is slowly driving me insane. Sounds like Windows is powering down your adapter due to a power management setting. Go to the Device Manager, open the Network Adapters drop-down, open the properties of your adapter, go to the Power Management tab and uncheck the box that lets Windows turn it off to save power.
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Nov 19, 2020 03:43
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I've just ordered a new PC and am immediately left questioning some of my decisions... Could I get some advice on whether I should amend a couple of these parts? > Antec P7 Silent ATX Tower PC Gaming Case > MSI MAG B550 TOMAHAWK Motherboard > AMD Ryzen 7 5800X Eight-Core Processor > Corsair Hydro Series, H100x, 240mm Radiator, Dual 120mm PWM Fans, Liquid CPU Cooler > 16GB (2x8GB) Corsair Vengeance LPX Black DDR4 3600MHz Dual Channel Kit > NVIDIA RTX 3080 8704 Cores 10GB GDDR6X PCI-E 4.0 > Samsung 860 EVO M.2 1TB Solid State Drive (up to 550MB/s R | 520MB/s W) > Corsair CX750 750W 80 Plus Bronze Power Supply My queries are regarding the case, PSU and AIO. 1: I'm reading mixed reviews on the Antec P7 and am wondering if this case might not have the airflow needed for gaming, even if I have a AIO. 2: Im questioning whether I want an AIO or not... I can see air coolers seem to better but always wanted a watercooler.. sad I know, but will the H100x be ok for noise if it's in a supposedly quiet case? 3: If I am going to make changes to other parts of the order I might also up the PSU to a Gold rated one. My question is, how bothered should I be about the above and would you see these as must update parts based on the level of the rest of the build?
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Nov 19, 2020 03:49
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Toxic Fart Syndrome posted:Sounds like Windows is powering down your adapter due to a power management setting. Go to the Device Manager, open the Network Adapters drop-down, open the properties of your adapter, go to the Power Management tab and uncheck the box that lets Windows turn it off to save power. Oh, yeah, I've already done a bunch of stuff after looking at various threads on every manufacturer's support forum where people are having the same problem. Turned off power management and all the driver's power-saving ethernet options, turned off auto negotiation, rolled back to the 5-year-old driver that comes with Windows, updated to the newest version of the driver, and updated my BIOS to the beta version, and the result was resets happen every few hours instead of multiple times an hour, which is still unacceptable.
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Nov 19, 2020 03:59
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No Pants posted:Oh, yeah, I've already done a bunch of stuff after looking at various threads on every manufacturer's support forum where people are having the same problem. Turned off power management and all the driver's power-saving ethernet options, turned off auto negotiation, rolled back to the 5-year-old driver that comes with Windows, updated to the newest version of the driver, and updated my BIOS to the beta version, and the result was resets happen every few hours instead of multiple times an hour, which is still unacceptable. I know you've probably already done this, but did you switch the overall windows power management to "High Performance" instead of the default "Balanced?" My wife was having this same problem with her laptop and the PM tab on the adapter + the Windows PM setting is what fixed it. Otherwise, if your mobo still under warranty? May be defective. But, to answer your original question: I think pretty much any brand of ethernet card will work...I would go with a name I at least recognize, for peace of mind, but I think it's hard to botch such a simple part. They even make USB dongles, these days.
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Nov 19, 2020 04:08
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Thanks, that's a setting nobody else mentioned. Since the only other cards are no-name or secretly Realtek, I'll buy the Intel one and send it back if I don't see a reset again between now and when it arrives next week. Edit: It just happened twice in the past 10 minutes, I don't want to move everything to another MB again. 
No Pants fucked around with this message at 05:01 on Nov 19, 2020 |
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Nov 19, 2020 04:30
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The Gadfly posted:Not sure about the thread's opinion on this, but I don't think it's a good idea to have two rams with different timings installed. It's probably safer to just pick one and buy 2 of them if you really need more than 16gb. Oh that’s a good call thanks. The second set comes bundled with the card but I can just eat the shipping and restock fees if it won’t play with what I have
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Nov 19, 2020 04:41
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The Wiggly Wizard posted:Oh that’s a good call thanks. The second set comes bundled with the card but I can just eat the shipping and restock fees if it won’t play with what I have I would highly recommend getting all the RAM you want in a single package: almost impossible to have problems like that. I've had to RMA sticks before because I got 2 packages of 2 sticks instead of a single 4-stick pack, and they just wouldn't work together. 
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Nov 19, 2020 04:45
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My computer currently has an i7 8700K (LGA 1151) @ stock 3.7ghz for its CPU. Would replacing it with an i9 9900K be a noticeable upgrade or only something I would see in a benchmark program ? The base clock of the 9900 is 100 mhz lower but the Turbo is 300 mhz higher. Mobo is an ASUS ROG STRIX Z370-E GAMING and the 9900K is on the supported CPU list with latest BIOS (which I already have).
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Nov 19, 2020 05:05
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What's your gpu\monitor? / oc your CPU / no.
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Nov 19, 2020 05:12
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EVGA 8GB 1080 / really old Asus 1920x1080/ no overclocking of anything ever
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Nov 19, 2020 05:14
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MREBoy posted:My computer currently has an i7 8700K (LGA 1151) @ stock 3.7ghz for its CPU. Would replacing it with an i9 9900K be a noticeable upgrade or only something I would see in a benchmark program ? The base clock of the 9900 is 100 mhz lower but the Turbo is 300 mhz higher. Mobo is an ASUS ROG STRIX Z370-E GAMING and the 9900K is on the supported CPU list with latest BIOS (which I already have). The thing about trying to future proof with the highest end CPU on a platform is that you will be stuck on PCI express 3.0 and DDR4 They money is probably better saved for a future hardware purchase I think. Wait till you NEED a new CPU or something.
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Nov 19, 2020 05:16
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MREBoy posted:EVGA 8GB 1080 / really old Asus 1920x1080/ no overclocking of anything ever Yeah, let that CPU ride.
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Nov 19, 2020 05:17
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MREBoy posted:My computer currently has an i7 8700K (LGA 1151) @ stock 3.7ghz for its CPU. Would replacing it with an i9 9900K be a noticeable upgrade or only something I would see in a benchmark program ? The base clock of the 9900 is 100 mhz lower but the Turbo is 300 mhz higher. Mobo is an ASUS ROG STRIX Z370-E GAMING and the 9900K is on the supported CPU list with latest BIOS (which I already have). https://www.anandtech.com/bench/product/2127?vs=2263 Better off saving, imo. Even straight upgrading is more of a side-grade for you, as far as gaming is concerned, with that specific GPU: https://www.anandtech.com/bench/product/2127?vs=2558 Find one of the out-of-stock GPUs for a worthwhile upgrade, methinks.
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Nov 19, 2020 05:22
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 Ok thanks for the sanity check. This inquiry was mostly brought on because an idiot co--worker of mine bought a no-name "botique gaming computer" (lots of glass and glowing fans) with 0 research for $1100 and he hates it. He's been bombarding me with questions involving replacing the 2060 video card and Ryzen 5 2600? CPU it came with with some 30x0 series card and a Ryzen 7 something, which would probably entail also replacing the ??? brand 500 watt PSU it came with 
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Nov 19, 2020 05:24
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CareyB posted:I've just ordered a new PC and am immediately left questioning some of my decisions... Could I get some advice on whether I should amend a couple of these parts? The cooler doesn't have quiet fans, it has cheap ones that can go fast if needed but they wont do it gracefully apparently. Something like the D15 comes with much better fans https://www.amazon.com/Noctua-NH-D15-heatpipe-NF-A15-140mm/dp/B00L7UZMAK Then again if water cooling your cpu is your dream then you could just swap those fans out for a12x25s down the road. Then you would have a fantastic cooling solution that you could probably carry forward to your next build. Can't comment on the case, haven't done any research but it does look pretty restrictive.
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Nov 19, 2020 05:29
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MREBoy posted:
ehhhhhh...he could have built something better for the same money, but what he has isn't bad? Probably just bloated with pre-installed garbage or needs an SSD? It's certainly fine for gaming right now, especially at 1080p or 1440p. He may raise his bottom 1% frames in most games, but his average fps probably wouldn't increase with a new CPU. A good PSU is always a sound investment, always go with a Gold-rated, as it's hard to botch the parts under those standards. Doubly-so if you plan on using it for 5-10 years. What does he hate about it?
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Nov 19, 2020 05:31
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Toxic Fart Syndrome posted:ehhhhhh...he could have built something better for the same money, but what he has isn't bad? Probably just bloated with pre-installed garbage or needs an SSD? It's certainly fine for gaming right now, especially at 1080p or 1440p. He may raise his bottom 1% frames in most games, but his average fps probably wouldn't increase with a new CPU. probably this MREBoy posted:
but "it came with with some 30x0 series card" confuses me. spunkshui fucked around with this message at 05:43 on Nov 19, 2020 |
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Nov 19, 2020 05:41
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spunkshui posted:The cooler doesn't have quiet fans, it has cheap ones that can go fast if needed but they wont do it gracefully apparently. Thanks, that was the alternative cooler I was looking at but if the air flow in the case isn’t fantastic perhaps the aio is a safer bet :/ I kinda assumed watercooling would be the standard now for building a high level rig especially if the cpu doesn’t come with a cooler. Clearly that was off base!
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Nov 19, 2020 05:44
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CareyB posted:Thanks, that was the alternative cooler I was looking at but if the air flow in the case isn’t fantastic perhaps the aio is a safer bet :/ https://antec.com/product/case/p7-silent.php If thats your case dont do the AIO. You want the AIO on the top of the case for many reasons. Front mounted AIOs have hoses at the top which can make the water move incorrectly and hurt the pump. Front mounted AIOs also dump all the heat directly into your case heating the air the gpu gets and blocking even more front intake airflow. Top mounted AIOs always have hoses the correct way. Top mounted AIOs remove heat from inside the case because it ever enters, its all behind case exhaust fans.
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Nov 19, 2020 05:52
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spunkshui posted:probably this Two "with"s in that sentence. Who the hell is still selling machines with a 2600 in them though?
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Nov 19, 2020 05:53
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Some Goon posted:Two "with"s in that sentence. Bad people 
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Nov 19, 2020 05:54
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spunkshui posted:https://antec.com/product/case/p7-silent.php Yes that’s the one. Ok thats really helpful, I guess this definitely pushes me to look at changing the order, thanks!
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Nov 19, 2020 06:13
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I guess I need a case. Or a cooler which works on a rotated RTX 3080. I currently have Silverstone RV02 which is the top case for cooling. The three 18cm fans provide 180-300cfm of positive pressure cooling. Also probably the best case for my 500W passive PSU.    My case is normally on the left side of the table, next to a wall, so the access from right side of the case has been good. Any ideas which case could be as little less poo poo than my current case as possible, but with the GPU in "normal" orientation? Apparently some GPU coolers like RTX 3080 TuF oc don't work when rotated. Edit: probably the MASTERCASE SL600M is the best bet:  It even looks OK, 200€ only. 2x 200mm fans on bottom and 2x 200mm fans on top. Ihmemies fucked around with this message at 07:38 on Nov 19, 2020 |
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Nov 19, 2020 07:17
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Your case is only "top for cooling" vs other cases using mostly the stock fans they come with. Gamers nexus doesn't put fans in many of the optional locations. Your case has the option for a 120mm fan as a "top" exhaust, and I think its absolutely worth trying. Most computers right now use 3 fans in the front and 1 out the back. I cant image anyone recommending you just don't populate the back exhaust fan spot.
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Nov 19, 2020 07:49
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Ihmemies posted:Edit: probably the MASTERCASE SL600M is the best bet I'm not sure it comes with top fans so you have to factor that into your cost. Seems pretty nice, but also anything with mesh and fans (in and out) does fine. https://www.gamersnexus.net/guides/3604-best-gaming-pc-cases-for-airflow-in-2020-right-now MASTERCASE SL600M seems like a nice case assuming cost is not a big deal to you. spunkshui fucked around with this message at 08:03 on Nov 19, 2020 |
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Nov 19, 2020 08:01
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Ihmemies posted:I guess I need a case. Or a cooler which works on a rotated RTX 3080. I currently have Silverstone RV02 which is the top case for cooling. The three 18cm fans provide 180-300cfm of positive pressure cooling. Comedy option cpu cooler on your gpu. https://www.youtube.com/watch?v=m3YnpwAAHhM https://www.youtube.com/watch?v=h6hvsqUEtZ4
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Nov 19, 2020 08:08
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Coredump posted:Comedy option cpu cooler on your gpu. You laugh but I'm using one of these on a 1070 founders as I wait to see the 3080 TI vs 3080. Gpu cant get over 55C  https://www.techpowerup.com/166415/arctic-releases-the-accelero-xtreme-iii-vga-cooler
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Nov 19, 2020 08:14
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spunkshui posted:You laugh but I'm using one of these on a 1070 founders as I wait to see the 3080 TI vs 3080. I haven't really heard about Accelero since I used one of their enormous heatsinks to 100% passively cool my Radeon HD 4850 back in the day. It was fun, though.
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Nov 19, 2020 14:05
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