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Frank Dillinger
May 16, 2007
Jawohl mein herr!

Krakkles posted:

I've been pretty happy with the combo of:
  • 1/2" High Torque for anything particularly tight
  • 3/8" for most things (and smaller spaces)
  • 3/8" Fuel Ratchet for running things on and off
I'd like to add one of the stubbies (and probably replace the 3/8" impact with it, honestly) for even better ability to fit it in smaller spaces, but this combo does pretty much everything.

I like the right angle impact but haven't come up with a reason I need it yet.

I have the stubby and the right angle, but I pretty much never use the angle one. I can fit the stubby most anywhere the angle fits, but the stubby has better ergonomics and more working/real power.

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Elviscat
Jan 1, 2008

Well don't you know I'm caught in a trap?

Krakkles posted:

It's a really good one, because an impact gun will always be a better choice for moving parts like that than a breaker bar.

I'm not really sure how the physics of a more or less powerful impact works out there, but I have to imagine more powerful is better.

More powerful=bigger hammer spinning faster and hitting the anvil with more force.

Reuben Sandwich
Jan 27, 2007

Raluek posted:

the modern cordless stuff truly is a wonder. it hits harder and faster than even a decent air impact, and you dont have to drag a hose around
It is. I was traveling with a friend a while back that helped a family with a flat. Cordless drill moved the scissor jack right up, battery in the impact take the tire off and then spare on, drilled the scissor jack down and disappeared.

Krakkles
May 5, 2003

Astonishing Wang posted:

WELD THAT poo poo!
It sounds like they don’t want me to ship it back any more than I want to, so I’m angling for some credit and exactly that. It’ll be a good project.

Big Taint posted:

What did you get? I’m in the market for one for my new MIG...
https://www.harborfreight.com/welding-cabinet-61705.html

Current price ($149) is about $5 more than I paid when there was a slightly uncommon 20% off coupon which included it (they usually don’t).

If it had arrived undamaged, I’d be 100% happy. As it is, it’s good.

StormDrain
May 22, 2003

Thirteen Letter

tangy yet delightful posted:

Ah but you see I don't already have one :v:

I picked up a little multi pack that I actually really like. Comes with a short extension and the sockets are reversible.

https://www.jbtools.com/ingersoll-r...N8aAgtGEALw_wcB

But I wouldn't hesitate to get the Gear Wrench coated wheel protector ones if I needed a new set.

Elviscat
Jan 1, 2008

Well don't you know I'm caught in a trap?

Man, when you have a welder, everything looks like a welding project.

I wanted to weld the rebar in the footer I poured for my house (you can't do that, you need special rebar)

I've often considered welding the framework for my house when I encounter lovely/warped/out-of-tolerence boards and long for the rigid dimensional control of mild steel.

It's a lot of fun looking at something most people would consider irreparably damaged and going "imma weld that"

The other day my Brother's Wife had a piece of cheapo yard art (metal flower) that had broken at the lovely brazen joints, and she was mad she had to throw it away. I took it home, fired up the welder and *zap**zap**zap* better than new!

kastein
Aug 31, 2011

Moderator at http://www.ridgelineownersclub.com/forums/and soon to be mod of AI. MAKE AI GREAT AGAIN. Motronic for VP.
It's about 50/50 on whether my welder or my rotary hammer is the more magical tool. As elviscat noted the welder fixes things most people think of as irreparably hosed, the rotary hammer and a suitable carbide bit will put a hole through any masonry I point it at. I'm not used to looking at a granite boulder and going "hmmm my life would be easier if this had a 1 inch hole right through it" and just... Making it happen in a few minutes.

Astonishing Wang
Nov 3, 2004
What do you mean you can't weld rebar? I've welded rebar :-/

Maybe I'm remembering wrong. Maybe I've only sharpened rebar into a weapon, not welded it into a weapon.

Elviscat
Jan 1, 2008

Well don't you know I'm caught in a trap?

You're not supposed to weld regular rebar for structural applications, because as the concrete cures and shrinks a bit it can cause the concrete to break, the rated for welding stuff is a special alloy with that expansion/contraction in mind, whereas the normal stuff the wire joints allow the rebar to slide and compensate.

wesleywillis
Dec 30, 2016

SUCK A MALE CAMEL'S DICK WITH MIRACLE WHIP!!
All this talk of the milwaukee nutfuckers has made me even more anxious. Thanks jerks:v:

I'm planning on changing my tires out on Saturday and doing my front brakes....


wesleywillis fucked around with this message at 12:44 on Nov 18, 2020

Krakkles
May 5, 2003

kastein posted:

It's about 50/50 on whether my welder or my rotary hammer is the more magical tool. As elviscat noted the welder fixes things most people think of as irreparably hosed, the rotary hammer and a suitable carbide bit will put a hole through any masonry I point it at. I'm not used to looking at a granite boulder and going "hmmm my life would be easier if this had a 1 inch hole right through it" and just... Making it happen in a few minutes.
Given how I feel about my hackzall, the rotary hammer makes sense.

I don't actually have the welder yet, but I think I'd still vote for that - it's just so cool being able to glue metal back together.

Update on the cabinet: They offered 20% off, which combined with the 20 15% off I already purchased it with means I got it for ~$122 or 27.75% off. They did make it a point to say that the warranty would be void, but given I'm going to weld it back up (and likely modify the top to accomodate the welder) and that I think I've used a HF warranty once, I can live with that.

wesleywillis posted:

All this talk of the milwaukee nutfuckers has made me even more anxious. Thanks jerks:v:

I'm planning on changing my tires out on Saturday and doing my front brakes....
I'm excited for you. That thing has definitely spent some time at the top of my favorite tools list, and honestly seems to return every time I need it.

MomJeans420
Mar 19, 2007



This HomeDepot deal posted earlier is pretty tempting and I already have a M12 3/8" ratchet. I was thinking of getting a second to leave in my truck, how long will the battery stay charged if I fully charge it but then just leave it in the car and don't use it?

https://www.homedepot.com/p/Milwauk...roduct-overview

Also, has anyone else noticed the Home Depot website loads slow as poo poo now? I tried it on two different computers and my phone and it's really annoying. I'm even running ublock origin and privacy badger, which should speed things up.

Krakkles
May 5, 2003

MomJeans420 posted:

This HomeDepot deal posted earlier is pretty tempting and I already have a M12 3/8" ratchet. I was thinking of getting a second to leave in my truck, how long will the battery stay charged if I fully charge it but then just leave it in the car and don't use it?
Keep it off the tool and it'll stay charged for a long time ... the temperature in the car might change it a bit, but I've picked up a battery after ~8-9 months and it still showed and acted as if it had a full charge.

The website was pretty slow for me ... enough to be annoying, but not it seems like it's not working slow.

OBAMNA PHONE
Aug 7, 2002
imo just keep a normal ratchet in your vehicle? no worries about batteries

The Royal Nonesuch
Nov 1, 2005

If anyone is looking for a multimeter that's not HF but also not Fluke prices, Grainger currently has this Extech EX320 on clearance for 50% off / $32.

Krakkles
May 5, 2003

And, for what it's worth, I've had very good experiences with Extech.

nadmonk
Nov 26, 2017

The spice must flow in and through me.
The fire will cleanse me body and soul.


I got an AstroAI multimeter off Amazon. Looks like it's in the same ballpark as the Extech.
https://www.amazon.com/gp/product/B071JL6LLL/ref=ppx_yo_dt_b_search_asin_title?ie=UTF8&psc=1
It works fine for the occasional stuff I use it for.
I did buy a set of probes and new leads for it.

Organization stuff arrived for the tool chest:


Socket organizers: https://www.amazon.com/gp/product/B07FMY5V62/ref=ppx_yo_dt_b_asin_title_o04_s00?ie=UTF8&psc=1


Pliers holders: https://www.amazon.com/gp/product/B07W5KMM68/ref=ppx_yo_dt_b_asin_title_o04_s01?ie=UTF8&psc=1


Wrench holders (I did tried to print some but we got high winds and started losing power so after 2 failed attempts I just ordered some): https://www.amazon.com/gp/product/B003XSTV5G/ref=ppx_yo_dt_b_asin_title_o01_s00?ie=UTF8&psc=1

For miscellaneous stuff: https://www.amazon.com/gp/product/B086JLNFN5/ref=ppx_yo_dt_b_asin_title_o04_s01?ie=UTF8&psc=1

I've been pretty impressed with the quality of all of this for the cost. I'm sure the organization will evolve over time, but it feels really good to have everything in one easily accessible spot and not have to dig for such and such blow molded case or some random tool box.

MRC48B
Apr 2, 2012

Budget made-in-asia off brand multi meters are totally viable these days.

99% of the measurements you make, the accuracy drop from a NIST-certified fluke (or whatever high end you want), is not going to be significant.

I have been rocking a harbor freight Ames in my work bag as an expiriment, and it's been perfectly serviceable. I need to add a magnet to the back of the case, but thats a work ergo thing.

been thinking of picking up a https://dmmcheckplus.com/ to really see how far 50 bucks of harbor freight electronics can go.

Motronic
Nov 6, 2009

MRC48B posted:

Budget made-in-asia off brand multi meters are totally viable these days.

99% of the measurements you make, the accuracy drop from a NIST-certified fluke (or whatever high end you want), is not going to be significant.

I have been rocking a harbor freight Ames in my work bag as an expiriment, and it's been perfectly serviceable. I need to add a magnet to the back of the case, but thats a work ergo thing.

been thinking of picking up a https://dmmcheckplus.com/ to really see how far 50 bucks of harbor freight electronics can go.

This is good advice if you're never using a meter for anything bigger than a car battery. And that might even be a bit of a safety issue in just the wrong failure mode.

Raluek
Nov 3, 2006

WUT.

Motronic posted:

This is good advice if you're never using a meter for anything bigger than a car battery. And that might even be a bit of a safety issue in just the wrong failure mode.

Yeah I've accidentally killed a Fluke by trying to measure >2000V with one (a power supply had failed and went out of regulation), and nothing exciting happened at all. It just didn't read correctly afterwards. I don't know what a cheaper DMM would do in that situation, but I don't want to find out, either.

Galler
Jan 28, 2008


Raluek posted:

I don't know what a cheaper DMM would do in that situation, but I don't want to find out, either.
If you decide you actually do want to know

https://www.youtube.com/watch?v=M-FZP1U2dkM&t=373s

Wasabi the J
Jan 23, 2008

MOM WAS RIGHT
What's the soldering iron recommended by the thread?

I don't need it a lot, but it would be nice to have something portable. Mainly for wiring and electronics.

I also need a good primer on how to not be complete poo poo at soldering.

Raluek
Nov 3, 2006

WUT.
For portable, I bought one of those TS100 chinese irons from amazon a couple years ago, but still haven't used it because I have a really nice bench iron, and prefer to crimp wire-to-wire connections where possible anyway. The iron looks like decent quality, though, and custom firmware is available.

For technique, the three main tips I can give you are:
  • Use good solder. Eutectic 63/37 flux core (NC if brand new parts, rosin if old crusty stuff).
  • Heat the joint with the iron, not the solder. Put the iron such that you get good thermal transfer into both wires, and get the wires hot enough to melt the solder by themselves. You can cheat by touching the solder to the iron, but if the joint isn't hot enough, the solder won't wick, wet, and stick.
  • Do not let the joint move while it's cooling. The solid crystal structure of the solder won't form correctly if the wires are moving while it's cooling. It's best to mechanically hold them in place, or you'll have to get good at holding perfectly still as the wires burn your fingers.

kastein
Aug 31, 2011

Moderator at http://www.ridgelineownersclub.com/forums/and soon to be mod of AI. MAKE AI GREAT AGAIN. Motronic for VP.
Weller wesd51 is your best bet for a traditional pencil iron. I've had mine nearly 20 years now and aside from some repairs to the cable because I abused it, and countless tips I've worn out, it is still working fine.

For hot air/multi function, most people seem to be happy with the <insert random brand name here> 853D hot air plus traditional pencil iron station with built in DC power supply. They're extremely cheap and I assumed they would be junk but I've never seen anyone complain about them and they are everywhere.

Raluek
Nov 3, 2006

WUT.

kastein posted:

Weller wesd51 is your best bet for a traditional pencil iron. I've had mine nearly 20 years now and aside from some repairs to the cable because I abused it, and countless tips I've worn out, it is still working fine.

For hot air/multi function, most people seem to be happy with the <insert random brand name here> 853D hot air plus traditional pencil iron station with built in DC power supply. They're extremely cheap and I assumed they would be junk but I've never seen anyone complain about them and they are everywhere.

these are good, we have a ton of them at work. i really prefer the WD-1 we have in one of the labs, but the WESD51 are very capable.

i used to work at a computer/electronics store and we always blew through the WES51 (non-digital version of the same thing) as soon as we got them in

Uthor
Jul 9, 2006

Gummy Bear Heaven ... It's where I go when the world is too mean.

Wasabi the J posted:

I also need a good primer on how to not be complete poo poo at soldering.

You can always do what NASA says.

https://www.scribd.com/document/78350646/NASA-Student-Handbook-for-Hand-Soldering

MrOnBicycle
Jan 18, 2008
Wait wat?
Getting a good soldering iron and being able to desolder / solder stuff is on my "to do"-list. From my research, the TS100 and now, even better I think TS80 soldering irons seem to get very good reviews. There are kits that provides power supply units.
Speaking of power supplies, I really need to get myself one of those "lab style" power supplies with variable voltage and ampere for testing electronics without having to rig up stupid wirings with batteries etc. I don't want to kill myself with some random brand China one even if they look fine in amazon pictures / reviews. At the same time I don't think I'd need anything more expensive than like $100 or something.

Rexxed
May 1, 2010

Dis is amazing!
I gotta try dis!

MrOnBicycle posted:

Getting a good soldering iron and being able to desolder / solder stuff is on my "to do"-list. From my research, the TS100 and now, even better I think TS80 soldering irons seem to get very good reviews. There are kits that provides power supply units.
Speaking of power supplies, I really need to get myself one of those "lab style" power supplies with variable voltage and ampere for testing electronics without having to rig up stupid wirings with batteries etc. I don't want to kill myself with some random brand China one even if they look fine in amazon pictures / reviews. At the same time I don't think I'd need anything more expensive than like $100 or something.

I have one of the cheap ones from Circuit Specialists. It's likely the same as an ebay cheapy but at least there's a company to get in touch with if I have problems. I doubt that's recommended, but it's what I did:
https://www.circuitspecialists.com/csi-power-supplies

It's fine for my rinky dink projects so far. The times I've needed more voltage or more amps have been few and most of those projects need some kind of dedicated supply. I also dropped it off a table a couple of times and so far no explosion.

Raluek
Nov 3, 2006

WUT.
ive had this bookmarked for a while, but have had no occasion to buy it since i already am flush with bench supplies

https://www.aliexpress.com/item/4000282551930.html

looks pretty featureful for the price, i would just rather pay $20 for some old linear supply from the flea market, lol

IOwnCalculus
Apr 2, 2003





Raluek posted:

ive had this bookmarked for a while, but have had no occasion to buy it since i already am flush with bench supplies

https://www.aliexpress.com/item/4000282551930.html

looks pretty featureful for the price, i would just rather pay $20 for some old linear supply from the flea market, lol

I picked one of these up, powering it with an old laptop brick. Works great.

Catatron Prime
Aug 23, 2010

IT ME



Toilet Rascal

Wasabi the J posted:

What's the soldering iron recommended by the thread?

I don't need it a lot, but it would be nice to have something portable. Mainly for wiring and electronics.

I also need a good primer on how to not be complete poo poo at soldering.

Depends a lot on what you want to do. For general portability and small electronics projects, I’d second the TS-100. I just did some small smd work with it today, including soldering in a micro usb receiver. Heats up stupid fast, the pencil tip is excellent for precision work, and you can set it to custom timeout and go to sleep with the custom firmware.

Here’s a good primer on soldering:

https://cdn-learn.adafruit.com/downloads/pdf/adafruit-guide-excellent-soldering.pdf

If you’re doing through hole, a good method to get the hang of it is to count. Count to four while hearing the pad and component pin, apply solder for four, and back the solder off and keep heating the joint for another two. Kinda like how music is structured f

If you’re doing PCBs, this is a fantastic and cheap board holder:
https://www.amazon.com/Adjustable-Circuit-Board-Holder/dp/B08LPLC2XZ

I’d recommend picking up some diy solder kits from banggood or something, eg a function generator or DIY oscilloscope or mini Tesla coil!

Raluek posted:

For portable, I bought one of those TS100 chinese irons from amazon a couple years ago, but still haven't used it because I have a really nice bench iron, and prefer to crimp wire-to-wire connections where possible anyway. The iron looks like decent quality, though, and custom firmware is available.

For technique, the three main tips I can give you are:[list]
[*]Use good solder. Eutectic 63/37 flux core (NC if brand new parts, rosin if old crusty stuff).


1000% yes, eutectic 63/37 solder is fantastic. Here’s the stuff I use (shamelessly stolen from another goon’s recommendation)

Kester SN63PB37 3.3%/44 .5mm (.20”) 24-6337-0010

Also, if you have a TS-100, this custom firmware is quite excellent:

https://github.com/Ralim/ts100

MrOnBicycle posted:

Getting a good soldering iron and being able to desolder / solder stuff is on my "to do"-list. From my research, the TS100 and now, even better I think TS80 soldering irons seem to get very good reviews. There are kits that provides power supply units.
Speaking of power supplies, I really need to get myself one of those "lab style" power supplies with variable voltage and ampere for testing electronics without having to rig up stupid wirings with batteries etc. I don't want to kill myself with some random brand China one even if they look fine in amazon pictures / reviews. At the same time I don't think I'd need anything more expensive than like $100 or something.

If you’re interested, I just recently upgraded my generic chinese bench power supply with an extech unit so I’d have more space. Yours for the price of beer and shipping

Kafouille
Nov 5, 2004

Think Fast !
I've bought a TS-80 and a Quick Charge 3 powerbank recently to replace my old Hakko 936 station with something more mobile, and it's pretty drat good. It heats up really quickly, has good thermal inertia and it's really handy, the USB cord is more flexible than traditional iron cords and the iron itself is really slender and you can choke right up on it. It also lasts for ages on a good powerbank and having it in your pocket instead of being tethered to a power socket is really nice.

MrOnBicycle
Jan 18, 2008
Wait wat?

OSU_Matthew posted:


If you’re interested, I just recently upgraded my generic chinese bench power supply with an extech unit so I’d have more space. Yours for the price of beer and shipping



If it's not too expensive / much of a hassle to send it to Sweden - just name the price and I'll glady accept your kind offer. :)

mobby_6kl
Aug 9, 2009

by Fluffdaddy

Kafouille posted:

I've bought a TS-80 and a Quick Charge 3 powerbank recently to replace my old Hakko 936 station with something more mobile, and it's pretty drat good. It heats up really quickly, has good thermal inertia and it's really handy, the USB cord is more flexible than traditional iron cords and the iron itself is really slender and you can choke right up on it. It also lasts for ages on a good powerbank and having it in your pocket instead of being tethered to a power socket is really nice.
I got the TS-100 before the TS-80 was updated to address some issues, but it looks good now too. The TS-100 takes a wide range of voltage though so you can make a dumb power adapter to use it form the 12v socket or battery.

This morning I received this Xioami compressor and had a quick test now. It's slow, but one of my tires was a bit low and it got it up to the right pressure in a few minutes. I guess I'm spoiled by using the air hoses at gas stations that do it instantly, but this seems good to keep around in a glove box for the rare emergency (that never happened so far) or to pump up after a track day or something.

Safety Dance
Sep 10, 2007

Five degrees to starboard!

I, too, like to plug a classic iPod into my car's tires

mobby_6kl
Aug 9, 2009

by Fluffdaddy
It's 2020, that's what all the cool kids do nowadays

boxen
Feb 20, 2011
Soldering iron chat: Has anyone tried out Milwaukee's M12 soldering iron? I used a butane soldering iron at an old job, and and they always sucked... clogged tips, unreliable gas feed, took a lot of fiddling sometimes and I didn't have the skill. Milwaukee's stuff is generally pretty solid.

https://www.milwaukeetool.com/Products/Power-Tools/Specialty-Tools/Heating-Tools/2488-20

There's also a M18 heat gun, if you want to go full red team.

Rhyno
Mar 22, 2003
Probation
Can't post for 10 years!

Safety Dance posted:

I, too, like to plug a classic iPod into my car's tires

My tires are now full of hoobastank and papa roach

StormDrain
May 22, 2003

Thirteen Letter
Just a few PSI more
Than what the sticker says
I'm inflating in the dark
Trying to get to work

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Krakkles
May 5, 2003

boxen posted:

Soldering iron chat: Has anyone tried out Milwaukee's M12 soldering iron? I used a butane soldering iron at an old job, and and they always sucked... clogged tips, unreliable gas feed, took a lot of fiddling sometimes and I didn't have the skill. Milwaukee's stuff is generally pretty solid.

https://www.milwaukeetool.com/Products/Power-Tools/Specialty-Tools/Heating-Tools/2488-20

There's also a M18 heat gun, if you want to go full red team.
Yep. It’s great. I haven’t used it enough to gauge how long a battery actually lasts but it seems ample. Heats up quick, angles for access, has an indicator to tell you when it’s cooled down.

The one dent seems to be that the light is slightly misplaced and blocked by the tip, but I never find lights on tools to work that well anyway.

Krakkles fucked around with this message at 18:55 on Nov 23, 2020

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