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DaveSauce posted:Ah, I see it now! Yeah, and it doesn't help with the perspective that those bricks are up on end.
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Nov 20, 2020 21:04
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My house is quite old (1880s) and is of course lath and plaster. I've got some exposed lath that I need to apply new plaster to. The problem is, I'm having a devil of a time deciding what material(s) to use, and youtube hasn't been terribly helpful. I bought a box of Plaster of Paris, which says it's for indoor wall and ceiling repair, which sounds right. But it also has a setting time of 6 to 8 minutes (!). That can't be the right stuff for what I'm doing, right?  Then there's Patching Plaster. No clue what the difference is. Even the DAP site doesn't tell you anything.  Beyond deciding what substance to fill the wall with, you apparently want to use some adhesive and/or conditioner so that the new plaster sticks. There's almost none of that at Lowe's/HD either, as best as I can tell. Some dude on youtube that had a good and comprehensive video sells a proprietary blend through his website, but that doesn't seem necessary. For what seems like it would be extremely well worn territory at this point, I'm finding it hard to get straight answers on what exactly I should be using to put new plaster up. About the only thing I know is that I don't want to use joint compound unless it's necessary. If you guys were putting up plaster over new lath, what compounds would you be using?
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Nov 20, 2020 23:49
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The Wonder Weapon posted:My house is quite old (1880s) and is of course lath and plaster. I've got some exposed lath that I need to apply new plaster to. Well, to begin with if your 1880s house was built around here, anything down to the lath would be 3 coats....... ....forget my typing. I was just searching for the stuff I'd use and terms and this article is EXACTLY how I learned to do it: https://www.oldhouseonline.com/repairs-and-how-to/plaster-101-diy-repairs-tools-techniques It's not super detailed, but you'll see the general steps and prep you need, and also that you're looking at at least two different materials.
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Nov 20, 2020 23:58
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I also finished up the last outlet inside the garage. The drywall broke at the bottom when I initially tried to mount the box so I had to build out a brace with some scrap wood, layered it with drywall, and filled with mud. I’ll give it one more layer of mud tomorrow, sand it down, and mount the outlet and cover. I don’t care about painting, I have plans to paint the whole garage eventually.
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Nov 21, 2020 02:57
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Motronic posted:Well, to begin with if your 1880s house was built around here, anything down to the lath would be 3 coats.......
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Nov 21, 2020 03:11
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stealie72 posted:This is making me miss having an all plaster wall and ceiling house. So much more zen to work with than drywall. Even if I kinda sucked at it. I mean...it's a pain in the rear end but when you done it enough to even get it kinda right it's SO SATISFYING.
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Nov 21, 2020 03:16
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Motronic posted:Well, to begin with if your 1880s house was built around here, anything down to the lath would be 3 coats....... This is great, thanks! It sounds like I need two products then: the foundation plaster (https://www.lowes.com/pd/USG-50-5-lb-Bag-Foundation-Plaster/3099147) and a veneer finish finishing plaster (https://www.lowes.com/pd/DIAMOND-Brand-50-5-lb-Bag-Finishing-Plaster/3089101). That's not bad at all, and thankfully they're both in stock locally too.
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Nov 21, 2020 04:52
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I've got an old wood floor in a room that sits directly above an unconditioned crawlspace. There are some cracks/gaps that let breezes in from below into that room. How should I got about filling those to cut down on drafts? Spray foam caulk from below? I've also read that unless I condition the whole crawlspace I shouldn't bother with any insulation (board or batting) on the underside as it will just create moisture issues. That sound about right?
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Nov 21, 2020 06:34
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El Mero Mero posted:I've got an old wood floor in a room that sits directly above an unconditioned crawlspace. There are some cracks/gaps that let breezes in from below into that room. No, there should be insulation between every conditioned and unconditioned space in your house, what you want is insulation between all the floor joists and a plastic vapor barrier encapsulating it. You can spray foam or caulk any gaps prior to insulating for more protection. There are entire companies devoted to doing this. As long as your crawlspace is properly ventilated it won't create any moisture issues.
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Nov 21, 2020 07:12
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H110Hawk posted:Panasonic makes the good fans. American standard makes a shitter. (I don't have opinions on them other than round bowls are a crime against humanity and you want them lower not higher/"comfort") You want higher, chair height or comfort you savage  Round bowls are awful... I replaced a childs sized round bowl toilet downstairs with a proper height elongated, and only it added 1/2” extra depth. There’s no reason for round bowls in TYOOL 2020 z0331 posted:At some point(s), I think some folks had mentioned some good bathroom exhaust fans and water-efficient toilets. Does anyone have those handy or recall what they were? Last time I checked consumer reports a few years ago, the takeaway I got was that most modern toilets are pretty good. I replaced both toilets in my house in 2014 with American Standard Champion chair height elongated bowls and they’ve been excellent. I’ve replaced a few gaskets and seals, but I think that’s par for the course unfortunately. Soft close lid and bidet are also highly recommended. Also if you’re replacing your bathroom fan, make sure it exhausts properly and not just say into the attic. I have no idea why that’s so drat common, but it’s an easy fix. I got the highest cfm fan Lowes had in store hoping it would be like opening the airlock on a space station, and the drat thing can barely flap a tissue.
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Nov 21, 2020 14:55
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I recently put in a Panasonic 120 CFM, noting it was the popular choice here. It seems very, very good. Unfortunately my previous one was garbage so I'm not sure it's a good comparison, but it's almost three times more powerful and quieter than the last one. What is everyone's take on duct cleaning? It seemed... intuitive, but everything I'm reading mostly says there's no apparent benefit? E.g. anything in your ducts pretty much stays there, so there's not a big gain to cleaning? Months of reno with poor air sealing has left things real dusty, and I'm wondering if that might help.
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Nov 21, 2020 16:34
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OSU_Matthew posted:You want higher, chair height or comfort you savage Look here buddy... My wife didn't understand my hatred of round bowls when we were trying to figure out a remodel of our "wasn't legal when signed off" second bathroom which has not enough space for anything. External genitals pressed against the inside of a toilet will change your opinion of that quickly. It's so gross and so cold.
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Nov 21, 2020 16:51
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H110Hawk posted:Look here buddy... Does she drip dry? We have the world's smallest round bowl in our basement and I can't wipe without getting toilet on my hand. It's horrendous.
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Nov 21, 2020 17:31
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The Wonder Weapon posted:This is great, thanks! It sounds like I need two products then: the foundation plaster (https://www.lowes.com/pd/USG-50-5-lb-Bag-Foundation-Plaster/3099147) and a veneer finish finishing plaster (https://www.lowes.com/pd/DIAMOND-Brand-50-5-lb-Bag-Finishing-Plaster/3089101). That's not bad at all, and thankfully they're both in stock locally too. Yeah. You'll see why you need both. Foundation is very sticky and tough, but doesn't smooth well. Veneer is light and not terribly durable, but smooths like sheetrock joint compound (meaning your final "sanding" could be a wet sponge if you get it close to smooth enough).
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Nov 21, 2020 17:40
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what an unbelievable mess I've made
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Nov 21, 2020 22:13
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BonerGhost posted:Does she drip dry? We have the world's smallest round bowl in our basement and I can't wipe without getting toilet on my hand. It's horrendous. I am unclear on what bathroom gymnastics my wife participates in with terrible toilets.
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Nov 21, 2020 22:29
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It has become clear that some of you have never had the pleasure of a square bowl. Take solace in your round bowls, for there are worse horrors that wait in the shadows.
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Nov 22, 2020 01:12
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Can confirm.
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Nov 22, 2020 01:24
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So in one room of my house, when one walks on the floor there's some annoying metalic noises happening below it. Some googling says this is 'oil canning' where my HVAC ducts are rubbing against the joists or subfloor. Fortunately my basement is exposed. Having someone listen in basement while walking above seems to confirm. Googling it is confusing and i cant seem to find the right fix. My brain says to stick a few screws in the top part to the sub floor (short as to not go through), but I haven't seen anyone suggest that. I have seen suggestions of: * Hit it with a hammer to bend it * 'enforce' it with steel, with no details Anyone have a clue here? One can see from photos that the top part isnt really attached, and the sides are far from perfect as there's gaps. The joists seem to be acting as the sides of the ducts.  
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Nov 24, 2020 18:20
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I don't know how you "fix" it, but your ducts were done wrong. There's supposed to be a couple of creases, typically an "X" across the long sides to prevent oil canning like that. Getting proper ducts would be the real fix but hopefully there's something short of that. Also, they don't looks terribly well fitted either based on that last pic. It looks like the first job somebody let the new apprentice loose on.
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Nov 24, 2020 20:44
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Those things are attached to floor joists on both sides, isn't any deflection in the floor going to sound like an appalachian folk band?
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Nov 24, 2020 21:00
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Good point, I'm fairly sure the noise comes from the upper part rubbing on the subfloor, but I presume that would happen because the joists are moving slightly? Perhaps I could add some more of those cross bar support things on each side of the ducts, between the joists and see what happens? Google maybe says they're "joist bridging" or "tension bridging" or similar.
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Nov 24, 2020 21:10
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Is it not better to just get an HVAC guy to check the ducts and quote for a fix, during which time he will tell you exactly what’s wrong with the way it’s done. And if you ask, what he’d do to fix it. Edit: Get a few quotes and see if it’s worth your time to do a proper fix. wooger fucked around with this message at 22:29 on Nov 24, 2020 |
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Nov 24, 2020 22:21
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wooger posted:Is it not better to just get an HVAC guy to check the ducts and quote for a fix, during which time he will tell you exactly what’s wrong with the way it’s done. And if you ask, what he’d do to fix it. Sure....if you are ready to spend money and can actually find a tin knocker who is willing to do residential, and also to do remedial residential.
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Nov 24, 2020 22:28
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Elviscat posted:No, there should be insulation between every conditioned and unconditioned space in your house, what you want is insulation between all the floor joists and a plastic vapor barrier encapsulating it. You can spray foam or caulk any gaps prior to insulating for more protection. There are entire companies devoted to doing this. As long as your crawlspace is properly ventilated it won't create any moisture issues. Do you not want the vapour barrier between the floor & joists and the insulation in this case, rather than the other way round? I’d use breathable insulation rather than any kind of foam, and put the vapour barrier on top (wrapped up over the joists), then insulation, then a wind proof (but vapour open) barrier on the bottom. The gaps in the wood floor can also be filled with slivers of wood & a mix of sawdust & glue, though you really need to sand and refinish at the same time for it to look good.
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Nov 24, 2020 22:45
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falz posted:Good point, I'm fairly sure the noise comes from the upper part rubbing on the subfloor, but I presume that would happen because the joists are moving slightly? My ducting was done similarly poorly. As Mo says short of replacing them there isn't a ton to do. Additional cross bridging (or bracing, that's what we call it here) may help but Im not convinced, since the ducts will move with just the smallest deflection. I've spent a bunch of time sealing panned joists like you have there as well. Not fun but hopefully will help cut down on dust.
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Nov 24, 2020 23:51
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Pretty typical panned joists. You can replace the sheet metal with a piece of ductboard, which won't squeak. Though, an option I would try first would be to gob a bunch of silicone sealant around the edges of the pan and see if it stops. As a bonus, that would also seal up the leaks you're getting in that return. You could also cut a piece of 2x10 (it looks like) to use instead. If you fit it right, that would help deflection by acting as blocking for the joists in addition to boxing in the return.
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Nov 25, 2020 02:40
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I should post a photo, but I'll try with words first: to run a new outlet, I pulled out materials between the floor joists at the wall in the basement of my 120+ year old house. The joists are toenailed to a sill board on top of a stone foundation. The cavity between joists was loosely filled with more rocks and mortar, with some fiberglass stuffed on the interior side. I pulled it all out, ran the wire, and I'm ready to close the cavity again. I'm having second thoughts on the rock and mortar fill. Should I put a foam board on the exterior side first? Do the rocks even do anything? I figured they were insurance against the joists rolling over, but the subfloor is chunky pine and should do a good job holding the joists straight. I'm thinking now it was just cheap fill or a half-assed attempt to prevent air or rodent infiltration. I'm not worried about rotting out the sill. It looks great and is dry as a bone. All the mortar is falling apart from age and rodent digging, so if start replacing things, I want to do it right from the start. I assumed the place was balloon framed, but I can't see evidence of studs from the basement side. They must be sitting on a board on top of the joists. jailbait#3 fucked around with this message at 21:35 on Nov 25, 2020 |
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Nov 25, 2020 21:15
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wooger posted:Do you not want the vapour barrier between the floor & joists and the insulation in this case, rather than the other way round? Yeah, that.
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Nov 25, 2020 21:39
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When the wife wants to put a small lighted Christmas tree on the platform above the front door in the foyer, you make it happen. Happy wife, happy life.  it is all of a 3 ft wire hop to the new circuit i just put in.
devmd01 fucked around with this message at 01:39 on Nov 26, 2020 |
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Nov 26, 2020 01:36
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Do folks have a garage shelving design that they like (purchased or made)? I've got some jankey plywood stuff from the PO that's hanging off the beams in my garage that I want to replace
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Nov 28, 2020 07:45
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I haven't used these but I like Matthias' nerdery. Woodgears cantilevered shelves
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Nov 28, 2020 09:02
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Happiness Commando posted:I haven't used these but I like Matthias' nerdery. Woodgears cantilevered shelves I built something like these shelves for my shed, but I haven't gotten around to installing the third row, or some plywood decking. The only thing I'll say about it is that my ability to make precise, reproduceable cuts on my Dewalt contractor saw isn't great. So, I don't think mine turned out perfect. I think if I were to make them again, I would make the side pieces of the cantilever shelves out of 3/4" plywood, and the center support out of a 2x4 or whatever you have handy that is the same width as your studs.
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Nov 28, 2020 10:02
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El Mero Mero posted:Do folks have a garage shelving design that they like (purchased or made)? I've got some jankey plywood stuff from the PO that's hanging off the beams in my garage that I want to replace Yes! look into French Cleat systems. They’re super easy to DIY, and essentially hang off a cantilevered cleat, so you can just lift them up and shuffle them whenever you want to move something:  They’re also super strong and adaptable, and can do cabinets or anything else you come up with. If you’re just looking for floor standing shelves, wire shelving is the way to go imho.
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Nov 28, 2020 16:12
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Edit: Wrong thread
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Nov 28, 2020 16:34
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OSU_Matthew posted:Yes! look into French Cleat systems. I just bought some mid century teak wall cabinets, and they actually come with their own proprietary french cleat system, with a spirit level built into the cleat. Top stuff.  OSU_Matthew posted:If you’re just looking for floor standing shelves, wire shelving is the way to go imho. Agree. Unless you’re storing ultra heavy stuff like engine blocks, in which case you’d need an industrial racking system anyway.
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Nov 28, 2020 17:12
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Happiness Commando posted:I haven't used these but I like Matthias' nerdery. Woodgears cantilevered shelves Are these really that strong when screwed in to studs? Seems sketchy to me, but that's definitely outside my wheelhouse. Definitely need some shelves in the garage, though. Lots of unused space that stuff could be relocated to, and I could use a project to practice some basic woodworking.
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Nov 29, 2020 01:25
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DaveSauce posted:Are these really that strong when screwed in to studs? Seems sketchy to me, but that's definitely outside my wheelhouse. He posts photos of himself standing on all of his shelves and structures. They're probably pretty strong if they're just statically loaded?
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Nov 29, 2020 07:45
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The ClosetMaid Maxload sets that Home Depot sells are what I have in my garage. They're easily adjustable which is nice when you're first loading them up and you need a shelf to be 1" higher for a box or something. They're also crazy strong when installed correctly. I've got shelves of lumber, parts, and tools and they are rock solid.
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Nov 29, 2020 15:56
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DaveSauce posted:Are these really that strong when screwed in to studs? Seems sketchy to me, but that's definitely outside my wheelhouse. Depending on how pretty/finished you want your garage to be the most flexible/easy option is to just install shelving standards. Lots of different brands make them and the double-slot ones are usually interchangeable. I put a bunch up in my sheds since it makes it easy to change the shelf height if I want to change what I am storing or whatever. I believe the closetmaid max-load shelves Spartan is talking about use the normal double-slot standards, FWIW, if you want to buy shelves to go on them instead of just slapping down some plywood or whatever.
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Nov 29, 2020 23:28
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