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NicelyNice
Feb 13, 2004

citrus
Been chilling here for the past couple months reading this thread as well as the PC building thread and finally ended up with a build so I thought I'd share. I haven't used a desktop PC in 6 years or so (been using Apple laptops and gaming on a PS4), but after getting a proper desk setup for working from home, I got the urge to build something.

Originally loved the design of the NZXT H1, but when I went to see it in a store, it was waaay bigger than I expected. Sitting next to it was a DAN A4, which had a much more appealing form factor, but I didn't love the design aesthetics and the case just felt a little cheap.

I was a bit torn between the Ghost S1 and the Formd T1, but as I'm not into water cooling and I wanted a case I could put together this year, I ordered a Ghost S1 off of Taobao. After a bit of customs issues and dealing with Taobao and the shipping company's (4PX) customer service (which was amazing, btw, even though Google Translate), it made its way here.

I had originally planned on getting a 1660 Super, but after seeing a post about a dude who got a 3070 working alright in the Ghost S1, I decided to splurge on a 3070 Eagle OC. I'm in Japan where stock is a bit better and pricing is a lot worse, so it was something I could just walk into the store and buy.

I use a MacBook Pro for my job (connected to the monitor in the pic below via USB-C) for text and video-heavy work, so I'm using a 4K monitor at 60 Hz - I wanted a video card to drive the monitor at native resolution at 60 FPS and the 3070 seems to hit that sweet spot.

Here's the build:

- Ghost S1
- AMD 3600 (considered a 5600X, but they're double the price here and I don't need it at all for 4K gaming at 60 FPS)
- Gigabyte B550I Aorus Pro Ax (the bluetooth on this board, which I use for mouse and keyboard, is absolutely garbage on this even with the antenna so I bought a USB adapter...)
- Gigabyte 3070 Eagle OC
- Corsair Vengeance LPX 16GB 3200 MHz
- Corsair P1 1TB NVMe SSD (I heard the WD Blue ones were cheaper, but got this at super discount)
- Corsair SF750 (I could have gone with the SF600, but the price difference was like $10, so decided to go up as it runs silent up to a higher power draw)
- Noctua NH-L12 Ghost S1 Edition (really like how this sits perfectly against the side panel)

The CPU was more than fine with the NH-L12 (and I don't really run any CPU intensive tasks), but the GPU was screaming at full load - 80 degrees with the fans going off around 90%, which sounds like a jet engine. I put a VERY aggressive undervolt and underclock (0.850 V at 1800 MHz) and it dropped 10 degrees with the fans spinning at around 75%, which isn't silent but is fine while gaming.

After a couple days of using it, figured I'd give the top hat a try and picked one up from a local store (which got stock like a week after I ordered my case off of Taobao...) along with two Noctua NF-A12x25 fans and one 15mm Noctua fan for the bottom of the case. All installed, now the GPU runs around 65 degrees max with fans topping out at 70%, which is pretty drat quiet - gets drowned out by game sounds or even the heater in my room.

The 3070 is a pretty sweet card for this build - pretty impressed by the total trade-off of size, performance, and sound without any watercooling. I don't love the aesthetics of the top-hat, but pretty happy it managed to make it very quiet.

Setup with no top-hat:


With the top-hat:

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ijyt
Apr 10, 2012

That’s gorgeous, I’m pretty jealous you can go to a store and physically see a Dancase or Ghost, no chance of that here. Great photography too!

horchata
Oct 17, 2010
Is anyone else here running a 5800x? It's fine on idle but it gets super toasty when doing gaming (like 80c+) and it's getting me worried.

Using a scythe fuma 2 on an NR200

Arzachel
May 12, 2012

horchata posted:

Is anyone else here running a 5800x? It's fine on idle but it gets super toasty when doing gaming (like 80c+) and it's getting me worried.

Using a scythe fuma 2 on an NR200

The default power limit is stupid on the 5800x, you can reduce the ppt a bunch with barely any performance difference and it'll run much cooler.

abraham linksys
Sep 6, 2010

:darksouls:

NicelyNice posted:

Setup with no top-hat:


two off-topic questions for you:

* what kind of speakers are those? i probably shouldn't ask because i finally committed to getting vanatoo transparent zeros and i'm happy with how they sound, but i'm kinda bummed how much less attractive they are than a lot of other desk speakers, such as yours :(

* is that a wooden wrist rest? is that as uncomfortable as i imagine, or is it intentionally uncomfortable to ensure you're only resting your wrists on it while you're not mid-typing (which i guess is how you're supposed to use wrist rests)

horchata
Oct 17, 2010

abraham linksys posted:

two off-topic questions for you:

* what kind of speakers are those? i probably shouldn't ask because i finally committed to getting vanatoo transparent zeros and i'm happy with how they sound, but i'm kinda bummed how much less attractive they are than a lot of other desk speakers, such as yours :(

* is that a wooden wrist rest? is that as uncomfortable as i imagine, or is it intentionally uncomfortable to ensure you're only resting your wrists on it while you're not mid-typing (which i guess is how you're supposed to use wrist rests)

Audioengine A2

Warmachine
Jan 30, 2012



NicelyNice posted:

Been chilling here for the past couple months reading this thread as well as the PC building thread and finally ended up with a build so I thought I'd share. I haven't used a desktop PC in 6 years or so (been using Apple laptops and gaming on a PS4), but after getting a proper desk setup for working from home, I got the urge to build something.

Originally loved the design of the NZXT H1, but when I went to see it in a store, it was waaay bigger than I expected. Sitting next to it was a DAN A4, which had a much more appealing form factor, but I didn't love the design aesthetics and the case just felt a little cheap.

I was a bit torn between the Ghost S1 and the Formd T1, but as I'm not into water cooling and I wanted a case I could put together this year, I ordered a Ghost S1 off of Taobao. After a bit of customs issues and dealing with Taobao and the shipping company's (4PX) customer service (which was amazing, btw, even though Google Translate), it made its way here.

I had originally planned on getting a 1660 Super, but after seeing a post about a dude who got a 3070 working alright in the Ghost S1, I decided to splurge on a 3070 Eagle OC. I'm in Japan where stock is a bit better and pricing is a lot worse, so it was something I could just walk into the store and buy.

I use a MacBook Pro for my job (connected to the monitor in the pic below via USB-C) for text and video-heavy work, so I'm using a 4K monitor at 60 Hz - I wanted a video card to drive the monitor at native resolution at 60 FPS and the 3070 seems to hit that sweet spot.

Here's the build:

- Ghost S1
- AMD 3600 (considered a 5600X, but they're double the price here and I don't need it at all for 4K gaming at 60 FPS)
- Gigabyte B550I Aorus Pro Ax (the bluetooth on this board, which I use for mouse and keyboard, is absolutely garbage on this even with the antenna so I bought a USB adapter...)
- Gigabyte 3070 Eagle OC
- Corsair Vengeance LPX 16GB 3200 MHz
- Corsair P1 1TB NVMe SSD (I heard the WD Blue ones were cheaper, but got this at super discount)
- Corsair SF750 (I could have gone with the SF600, but the price difference was like $10, so decided to go up as it runs silent up to a higher power draw)
- Noctua NH-L12 Ghost S1 Edition (really like how this sits perfectly against the side panel)

The CPU was more than fine with the NH-L12 (and I don't really run any CPU intensive tasks), but the GPU was screaming at full load - 80 degrees with the fans going off around 90%, which sounds like a jet engine. I put a VERY aggressive undervolt and underclock (0.850 V at 1800 MHz) and it dropped 10 degrees with the fans spinning at around 75%, which isn't silent but is fine while gaming.

After a couple days of using it, figured I'd give the top hat a try and picked one up from a local store (which got stock like a week after I ordered my case off of Taobao...) along with two Noctua NF-A12x25 fans and one 15mm Noctua fan for the bottom of the case. All installed, now the GPU runs around 65 degrees max with fans topping out at 70%, which is pretty drat quiet - gets drowned out by game sounds or even the heater in my room.

The 3070 is a pretty sweet card for this build - pretty impressed by the total trade-off of size, performance, and sound without any watercooling. I don't love the aesthetics of the top-hat, but pretty happy it managed to make it very quiet.

Setup with no top-hat:


With the top-hat:


Beautiful setup. Modest but solid build. Congrats on your first SFF build. It's really all about managing thermals in this hobby, as you've learned. My Ncase is quiet enough that the coil whine of the 3080 (:argh:) is louder than the fans in everything other than OCCT power virus mode.

NicelyNice
Feb 13, 2004

citrus

abraham linksys posted:

two off-topic questions for you:

* what kind of speakers are those? i probably shouldn't ask because i finally committed to getting vanatoo transparent zeros and i'm happy with how they sound, but i'm kinda bummed how much less attractive they are than a lot of other desk speakers, such as yours :(

* is that a wooden wrist rest? is that as uncomfortable as i imagine, or is it intentionally uncomfortable to ensure you're only resting your wrists on it while you're not mid-typing (which i guess is how you're supposed to use wrist rests)

As mentioned, Audioengine A2+. Really good audio quality for their size and love the look on the desk

The wrist rest is indeed wood and is actually pretty comfortable! I was a bit hesitant, but it is indeed perfect for, uh, resting my wrists: https://www.diatec.co.jp/en/det.php?prod_c=1340

Warmachine posted:

Beautiful setup. Modest but solid build. Congrats on your first SFF build. It's really all about managing thermals in this hobby, as you've learned. My Ncase is quiet enough that the coil whine of the 3080 (:argh:) is louder than the fans in everything other than OCCT power virus mode.

Yeah, didn't know how long I'd end up playing whack-a-mole with thermals and noise. I was hoping to run without the top-hat but wasn't happy with the GPU fan noise, but feel like it ended up at a good medium.

On a complete side note, this is my first time using Windows in more than 5 years - it's pretty good. I've been pretty unhappy with Apple hardware lately (at least until they finally fixed the keyboard issue), but Mac OS was just so much more painless to use than Windows. Windows still has a couple weird quirks and all these smaller 3rd party apps are garbage (MSI Afterburner, which I used for underclocking is a prime example), but the basic Window management seems better, I like the font rendering after a bit of adjustment, and the Windows Terminal combined with Windows Subsytem for Linux 2 is a better solution than the Mac Terminal. Could very easily see myself switching away from Mac OS for work.

NicelyNice fucked around with this message at 03:31 on Nov 16, 2020

nerdrum
Aug 17, 2007

where am I
This is absolutely the stupidest loving build I've ever done:

White nr200
z390i Strix with a 9900kf at 5ghz
eVGA 280mm AIO
Tuff 3 slot 3080 RTX with a salvaged phanteks riser cable from a shift evolv to move a slot down to have direct feed access from the bottom and give me enough space to mount the really stupid 850 watt SFX-L Silverstone power supply. without it's rockhard cables pushing against the card

and one very sad noctua 120mm as exhaust right at the vram

photos:


Warmachine
Jan 30, 2012



nerdrum posted:

This is absolutely the stupidest loving build I've ever done:

White nr200
z390i Strix with a 9900kf at 5ghz
eVGA 280mm AIO
Tuff 3 slot 3080 RTX with a salvaged phanteks riser cable from a shift evolv to move a slot down to have direct feed access from the bottom and give me enough space to mount the really stupid 850 watt SFX-L Silverstone power supply. without it's rockhard cables pushing against the card

and one very sad noctua 120mm as exhaust right at the vram

photos:




Oh, that's another reason I stayed away from Silverstone this time--their cables loving suck. I had to deal with the hard-90-degree turn those fuckers needed to make in my SG-05 with the drive sleds installed for five years. No thanks.

Rhaka
Feb 15, 2008

Practice knighthood and learn
the art that dignifies you

So on that SF750 order..

Rhaka posted:

Managed to grab one, even though I didn't see this until 9 hours later! Didn't have to click a card icon. Site seems a bit sketch, so I'm hoping we didn't just order a turd in a corsair box.

quote:

Date Ordered: Sunday 15 November, 2020

The comments for your order are

Our supplier just informed us this product is currently not in stock.We apologise for any inconvenience caused by this . Payment was cancelled before any money was taken .Pending payment hold should be removed by bank within 3-5 days.



Your order has been updated to the following status.

New status: cancelled

Rhaka fucked around with this message at 15:02 on Nov 16, 2020

ijyt
Apr 10, 2012

Haha gently caress, so much for that live stock number.

MaxxBot
Oct 6, 2003

you could have clapped

you should have clapped!!
Almost finished my first real ITX build, just have to tame this mess, mount the radiator and put the panels back on. Any tips for M1 cable management? I feel like I have to cram the radiator in there, do you think it matters if I just use a single cable for the 3080 vs two separate cables?

Ryzen 7 5800X
NZXT Kraken X53
ASRock Phantom Gaming ITX
G.SKILL 32GB Trident Z Neo 3600CL16
Samsung 980 Pro 1TB
RTX 3080FE
SF750

MaxxBot fucked around with this message at 16:44 on Nov 16, 2020

Romes128
Dec 28, 2008


Fun Shoe

MaxxBot posted:

Almost finished my first real ITX build, just have to tame this mess, mount the radiator and put the panels back on. Any tips for M1 cable management? I feel like I have to cram the radiator in there, do you think it matters if I just use a single cable for the 3080 vs two separate cables?

Ryzen 7 5800X
NZXT Kraken X53
ASRock Phantom Gaming ITX
G.SKILL 32GB Trident Z Neo 3600CL16
Samsung 980 Pro 1TB
RTX 3080FE
SF750



It was noted in the GPU thread that running a single cable results in performance loss. It's recommended to use two 8-pin cables instead one cable that splits out for the FE.

Supradog
Sep 1, 2004

A POOOST!?!??! YEEAAAAHHHH
My zotac 3080 arrived today and with my nr200p delivery date still sometime in december I decided to massage it into my phanteks evolv shift air.
Main issues was cpu cooler + gpu caddy.

I had run a arctic liquid freezer 120 in it before, but that one wont fit vs the gpu card lenght as it is a beefy 120 rad. It's also a couple of years old so the air bubbles are a bit bad with the pump as highest point.
Luckily I hadn't sold the AMD wraith prism cooler that came with my 3700x. With the plastic bracing of the mesh removed(yay dremel) in the cpu area it fits.


Second issue was the gpu caddy. The fan shroud on the gpu hits the caddy so it won't insert neatly.

Another job for the dremel.


In the case the biggest cut out is not visible.


The individually sleeved cables of the sf600 platinum makes cable routing a breeze. I also added a 120mm noctua as bottom intake + a 140mm as exhaust at the motherboard area.


The short pcb on the 3080 series have a much better location of the power cables for this case. my old gtx 1080 was way worse.

Warmachine
Jan 30, 2012



MaxxBot posted:

Almost finished my first real ITX build, just have to tame this mess, mount the radiator and put the panels back on. Any tips for M1 cable management? I feel like I have to cram the radiator in there, do you think it matters if I just use a single cable for the 3080 vs two separate cables?

Ryzen 7 5800X
NZXT Kraken X53
ASRock Phantom Gaming ITX
G.SKILL 32GB Trident Z Neo 3600CL16
Samsung 980 Pro 1TB
RTX 3080FE
SF750



So I'm not going to take the front radiator out for this, but what I did was use the void below the power supply, the space between the front panel and frame, and the space between the memory modules and the power supply to run the cables. EPS and ATX 24 pin go between the memory modules and power supply, with the EPS running in the channel between the motherboard and the frame at the top. The SF750's cables are nice and flexiable, so the hard turns should be easy enough to make. Take advantage of the lack of cable combs and the fact that each cable is individually sleeved to just shape those fuckers however you want. It can be a pain to get them around any of the front panel connectors--I recommend an extender for the power/reset/HDD light pins, and just being creative with the USB-C and USB 3 cables. Or just don't use the front panel.

For your GPU, run your PCIE into the space between the front panel and the frame. If you do it like my picture, the endpoints should come out right at your Y-splitter for the Nvidia 12-pin. I have an additional molex connector for a DDC pump in here as well, and you can see my front panel cables running up into the top cutout.

Does it look fantastic? No, but your case has no windows so who cares? The goal is to keep as much stuff out of the airflow path as possible, since you're already going to have big old tubes in there.




edit: bonus points if you weave the cables between each other in such a way that it forms a cohesive bundle that keeps itself in place.

denereal visease
Nov 27, 2002

"Research your own experience. Absorb what is useful, reject what is useless, add what is essentially your own."

I understand that the M1 doesn't have a lot of room for cable management but that is nearly criminal...



24pin is the biggest pain the rear end and I still need to gently caress with it more to eliminate panel bulging. I used the PSU's included zip ties to make "anti-combs" to keep cables bundled together and more manageable. A lot of the excess cabling is hidden in front the GPU, fans, and front panel.

VulgarandStupid
Aug 5, 2003
I AM, AND ALWAYS WILL BE, UNFUCKABLE AND A TOTAL DISAPPOINTMENT TO EVERYONE. DAE WANNA CUM PLAY WITH ME!?




https://www.youtube.com/watch?v=MFA01wF48HM

Warmachine
Jan 30, 2012



denereal visease posted:

I understand that the M1 doesn't have a lot of room for cable management but that is nearly criminal...



24pin is the biggest pain the rear end and I still need to gently caress with it more to eliminate panel bulging. I used the PSU's included zip ties to make "anti-combs" to keep cables bundled together and more manageable. A lot of the excess cabling is hidden in front the GPU, fans, and front panel.

I stopped shy of trying to run the EPS like that. I'll clean it up once I put the second radiator and GPU block in.

MaxxBot
Oct 6, 2003

you could have clapped

you should have clapped!!

denereal visease posted:

I understand that the M1 doesn't have a lot of room for cable management but that is nearly criminal...



24pin is the biggest pain the rear end and I still need to gently caress with it more to eliminate panel bulging. I used the PSU's included zip ties to make "anti-combs" to keep cables bundled together and more manageable. A lot of the excess cabling is hidden in front the GPU, fans, and front panel.

I had much more patience for this stuff today and got it mostly cleaned up, there's the tiniest bit of panel bulge but you have to look closely to see it. I'm surprised at how good the thermals and noise of this case are, Optimum Tech suggested it was a good setup but I didn't think it would be that much better than my P400A. My GPU went from ~75C under load to ~69C and my CPU went from hitting the 90C max under full load to the low 70s.


Duck and Cover
Apr 6, 2007

Duck and Cover posted:

Looking good.


Look if it closes it's good.


nr200p
big shuriken 3
Gigabyte B550I AORUS PRO AX Mini ITX AM4 Motherboard
Thermaltake Riing Quad 12
Asus Tuf 3080

Yes that rug is great at hiding screws.

I'm not sure what I would have done had I not been able to shove cables behind the front plate.

Warmachine
Jan 30, 2012



MaxxBot posted:

I had much more patience for this stuff today and got it mostly cleaned up, there's the tiniest bit of panel bulge but you have to look closely to see it. I'm surprised at how good the thermals and noise of this case are, Optimum Tech suggested it was a good setup but I didn't think it would be that much better than my P400A. My GPU went from ~75C under load to ~69C and my CPU went from hitting the 90C max under full load to the low 70s.




It's an older model, but it's still one of the most balanced cases on the market, hitting a sweet spot between size, compatibility, and thermals.

nitsuga
Jan 1, 2007

I could use some advice. I just built up the following system with a mix of new and used parts:

PCPartPicker Part List

CPU: AMD Ryzen 5 3600 3.6 GHz 6-Core Processor ($258.64 @ Amazon)
Motherboard: Gigabyte B450 I AORUS PRO WIFI Mini ITX AM4 Motherboard ($119.99 @ B&H)
Memory: G.Skill Ripjaws V Series 16 GB (2 x 8 GB) DDR4-3200 CL16 Memory ($61.99 @ Newegg)
Storage: Crucial MX500 500 GB 2.5" Solid State Drive ($55.99 @ Amazon)
Video Card: Gigabyte GeForce GTX 970 4 GB Video Card
Case: Fractal Design Core 500 Mini ITX Desktop Case ($59.99 @ Amazon)
Power Supply: SeaSonic FOCUS Plus Gold 550 W 80+ Gold Certified Fully Modular ATX Power Supply ($99.99 @ B&H)
Optical Drive: LG GH24NSC0B DVD/CD Writer ($18.98 @ Newegg)
Total: $675.57
Prices include shipping, taxes, and discounts when available
Generated by PCPartPicker 2020-11-18 18:26 EST-0500

But the GPU is making a lot of noise even at idle (at 33° C). In games it only gets louder, and it's all kind of driving me crazy. Anyway, I'm curious about what might be the best route to go. I could still return the 3600 for a 3200/3400G, and honestly probably get by fine. I'm not really playing the latest and greatest, mostly 5-10+ year-old games (CSGO, Dirt Rally 2.0, and Yakuza Kiwami might be the most intense games on my list to play). I've looked at YouTube demos for some of these titles and they all seem to run at least decently at 1080p.

Otherwise, it'd probably make the most sense to look at a different GPU, right? Any suggestions there? I'd love to still be able to stream games via Geforce Experience and Moonlight, which I know I'd give up with an APU. I'd entertain an aftermarket cooler (or anything really) for the right price, but I can't imagine it'd make sense to go that route.

Warmachine
Jan 30, 2012



nitsuga posted:

I could use some advice. I just built up the following system with a mix of new and used parts:

PCPartPicker Part List

CPU: AMD Ryzen 5 3600 3.6 GHz 6-Core Processor ($258.64 @ Amazon)
Motherboard: Gigabyte B450 I AORUS PRO WIFI Mini ITX AM4 Motherboard ($119.99 @ B&H)
Memory: G.Skill Ripjaws V Series 16 GB (2 x 8 GB) DDR4-3200 CL16 Memory ($61.99 @ Newegg)
Storage: Crucial MX500 500 GB 2.5" Solid State Drive ($55.99 @ Amazon)
Video Card: Gigabyte GeForce GTX 970 4 GB Video Card
Case: Fractal Design Core 500 Mini ITX Desktop Case ($59.99 @ Amazon)
Power Supply: SeaSonic FOCUS Plus Gold 550 W 80+ Gold Certified Fully Modular ATX Power Supply ($99.99 @ B&H)
Optical Drive: LG GH24NSC0B DVD/CD Writer ($18.98 @ Newegg)
Total: $675.57
Prices include shipping, taxes, and discounts when available
Generated by PCPartPicker 2020-11-18 18:26 EST-0500

But the GPU is making a lot of noise even at idle (at 33° C). In games it only gets louder, and it's all kind of driving me crazy. Anyway, I'm curious about what might be the best route to go. I could still return the 3600 for a 3200/3400G, and honestly probably get by fine. I'm not really playing the latest and greatest, mostly 5-10+ year-old games (CSGO, Dirt Rally 2.0, and Yakuza Kiwami might be the most intense games on my list to play). I've looked at YouTube demos for some of these titles and they all seem to run at least decently at 1080p.

Otherwise, it'd probably make the most sense to look at a different GPU, right? Any suggestions there? I'd love to still be able to stream games via Geforce Experience and Moonlight, which I know I'd give up with an APU. I'd entertain an aftermarket cooler (or anything really) for the right price, but I can't imagine it'd make sense to go that route.

It's because the GPU is a micro board with only one fan. I had something similar: https://www.asus.com/us/Graphics-Cards/GTX970DCMOC4GD5/

Buy a new GPU. The case has a 310mm limit, which gives you space for all but the chunkiest 2 slot graphics cards. Get a bigger power supply, and grab whatever suits your fancy from the 2020 lineup. If you're really committed to not needing a current gen card, go find someone selling a full size 10xx or 20xx series, repaste that, and you'll be good. Don't count on being able to fit a "2.5" slot or whatever in there. I don't see a whole lot of clearance between the expansion slots and the side panel. Check the case documentation--it should tell you how thick of a GPU (in an actual unit of measurement) you can fit.

2 slots, up to 310mm long. That's what you gotta remember.

Why only a 550W PSU anyway? You're using an ATX, and PSUs will last a while... give yourself some headroom.

nitsuga
Jan 1, 2007

Warmachine posted:

It's because the GPU is a micro board with only one fan. I had something similar: https://www.asus.com/us/Graphics-Cards/GTX970DCMOC4GD5/

Buy a new GPU. The case has a 310mm limit, which gives you space for all but the chunkiest 2 slot graphics cards. Get a bigger power supply, and grab whatever suits your fancy from the 2020 lineup. If you're really committed to not needing a current gen card, go find someone selling a full size 10xx or 20xx series, repaste that, and you'll be good. Don't count on being able to fit a "2.5" slot or whatever in there. I don't see a whole lot of clearance between the expansion slots and the side panel. Check the case documentation--it should tell you how thick of a GPU (in an actual unit of measurement) you can fit.

2 slots, up to 310mm long. That's what you gotta remember.

Why only a 550W PSU anyway? You're using an ATX, and PSUs will last a while... give yourself some headroom.

Alright, that's what I figured. :-/

I went with a 550W because that's what a PSU calculator deemed sufficient even with a 2060, it wouldn't be too late to return that either though. I know they get noisier the more of a load you put on them, and I know a little more headroom wouldn't kill me.

nitsuga fucked around with this message at 02:38 on Nov 19, 2020

Warmachine
Jan 30, 2012



nitsuga posted:

Alright, that's what I figured. :-/

I went with a 550W because that's what a PSU calculator deemed sufficient even with a 2060, it wouldn't be too late to return that either though. I know they get noisier the more of a load you put on them, and I know a little more headroom wouldn't kill me.

My two cents is that since the current gen cards are sucking down dumbo power, it's a good idea to at least match the mfr recommendations for those, so that if by some miracle you decide you actually want one of these power viruses, you'll be able to run it without worrying about tripping the overcurrent protection on your PSU.

In the meantime, you get a PSU that doesn't have to spin up its undoubtedly lovely noisy fan to do its job.

DrDork
Dec 29, 2003
commanding officer of the Army of Dorkness
Except the recommendations from NVidia/AMD are kinda silly. No, you do not need a 750W PSU for a 3080, unless you're pairing it with a 10900k you're OCing to the moon.

I've got a 5600X + 3080 and under benchmark / power virus load I'm seeing about 540W max draw. 600-650W is plenty, anything more than that is overkill.

Chevy Slyme
May 2, 2004

We're Gonna Run.

We're Gonna Crawl.

Kick Down Every Wall.
I finally got my SM 580 and built the thing.
nsfw:




Cable management is an absolute horror show and CPU thermals are bad as a result, but I'm gonna order some custom cables as soon as I can figure out lengths and redo the whole thing so that all of my fans will spin properly and such. Still, it runs, and the GPU thermals are great, even if the CPU does hit high 80's/low 90's when I run Cinebench. It idles at like 35 which seems fine though. Also, I can put the goatman on my cooler and that owns.

DrDork posted:

Except the recommendations from NVidia/AMD are kinda silly. No, you do not need a 750W PSU for a 3080, unless you're pairing it with a 10900k you're OCing to the moon.

I've got a 5600X + 3080 and under benchmark / power virus load I'm seeing about 540W max draw. 600-650W is plenty, anything more than that is overkill.


My understanding is that the 30 series cards are prone to spiky power draw that can run into trouble with under specced PSU's sometimes.

Romes128
Dec 28, 2008


Fun Shoe
With the sm580 fan grills are a necessity. My temps are fine but I’m using 4 noctua 140mm fans and all vented panels.

Chevy Slyme
May 2, 2004

We're Gonna Run.

We're Gonna Crawl.

Kick Down Every Wall.

Romes128 posted:

With the sm580 fan grills are a necessity. My temps are fine but I’m using 4 noctua 140mm fans and all vented panels.

Yeah, I spent like half an hour adjusting the cables out of the fans by hand after first setting it up, and I have to open it up and redo that every time I pick up the case and turn it to adjust some USB in the back or something. I'll add fan grills when I rewire the thing in a few weeks, along with some customs too just get rid of all this bulky cable slack taking up space. (and to properly route my AIO tubes behind the PSU. Many things to fix now that I have a little bit of knowledge. I also mounted my radiator a few milimeters too far forward, so the panels have a slight gap on the front corner.)

DrDork
Dec 29, 2003
commanding officer of the Army of Dorkness

CaptainPsyko posted:

My understanding is that the 30 series cards are prone to spiky power draw that can run into trouble with under specced PSU's sometimes.

The biggest spike I've seen so far is ~330W, with sustained being down in the ~290W range mostly. So even a 550W PSU would be able to keep up with that without much issue, though for safety I'd probably get a 600 or better.

Warmachine
Jan 30, 2012



DrDork posted:

The biggest spike I've seen so far is ~330W, with sustained being down in the ~290W range mostly. So even a 550W PSU would be able to keep up with that without much issue, though for safety I'd probably get a 600 or better.

But why redline your PSU like that? Watts are cheap, get a few extra just in case. Even more and you get a practically silent PSU. Unless you're constrained by form factor (the poster in question is not), go hog wild. Maybe not kilowatt wild, but dropping an 850 or something in there isn't a terrible idea. For another $30 he could get a 750W modular power supply with the same efficiency rating from EVGA.

CopperHound
Feb 14, 2012

Warmachine posted:

same efficiency rating.
Same efficiency rating at the same load though?

VorpalFish
Mar 22, 2007
reasonably awesometm

Warmachine posted:

But why redline your PSU like that? Watts are cheap, get a few extra just in case. Even more and you get a practically silent PSU. Unless you're constrained by form factor (the poster in question is not), go hog wild. Maybe not kilowatt wild, but dropping an 850 or something in there isn't a terrible idea. For another $30 he could get a 750W modular power supply with the same efficiency rating from EVGA.

This is the SFF thread and sfx units in general have been much harder to come by, particularly the high wattage units. The barrier has been finding things in stock at MSRP.

Feels like things have been getting better lately though.

DrDork
Dec 29, 2003
commanding officer of the Army of Dorkness
If the prices are similar, I agree: I'd pay $10 or $20 to bump from a 550W to a 650/750W, sure. But there's been a tendency to drive people to buying these $200+ overbuilt PSUs on the thinking that they need them to power a 3080 + Zen3, when that simply isn't the case. Same with pushing people to get Plat or Titanium rated PSUs, despite the price increases there making no sense whatsoever for 99.99% of people (haven't seen much of that pushing here, but certainly on other forums it's rampant). 2% extra efficiency is never going to pay off the up-front costs, sorry.

Basically a lot of people are being told they "need" a much more expensive PSU than they actually do, based on outdated rules like "don't run it over 60% load" or other nonsense. But yeah, if it's only a couple of bucks more, why not get the bigger one?

If you're searching for a "silent" PSU, a few more watts isn't likely to make that much of a difference, since most of the "zero fan" ones stop running silent at 250-300W, and once the fan kicks on, straight wattage isn't often a good indicator of how loud it will be. You end up having to dig through reviews to find out if a given model bothered to pack a good fan in there, or if it's some loud rickety mess.

DrDork fucked around with this message at 18:48 on Nov 19, 2020

nitsuga
Jan 1, 2007

We'll see what I end up doing with the PSU. I managed to get a 1650 Super for a pretty decent price, so it's not like that's going to cause a lot of strain, and like I said I'm a pretty lo-fi gamer so I think this is what I'll run for some time. I understand the logic for sure in buying up, but this was the best option I could find at the time (I had a coupon to use and everything too). One major drawback to replacing it would be having to redo my cabling. :-(

Anyway, thanks for setting me straight. A 1660 is a little tempting though.

Edit: Also, a Cooler Master EVO...

nitsuga fucked around with this message at 02:04 on Nov 21, 2020

Less Fat Luke
May 23, 2003

Exciting Lemon

CaptainPsyko posted:

I finally got my SM 580 and built the thing.
nsfw:



:golfclap:

ijyt
Apr 10, 2012

So after a bunch of horror stories about the Strix X570-I with impossible to remove NVMe screws and missing thermal pads, I went and stripped mine to check it, and it's all good. Loctite blue on screws where it should be, and thermal pad on the chipset. Really love how compact this board is and how its been put together.

NicelyNice
Feb 13, 2004

citrus

CaptainPsyko posted:

I finally got my SM 580 and built the thing.
nsfw:





"Hmm, how could a SFF build possibly be NSFW? Let's see..."

"Oh."

Technology has truly brought us brightly into the future :patriot:

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Canna Happy
Jul 11, 2004
The engine, code A855, has a cast iron closed deck block and split crankcase. It uses an 8.1:1 compression ratio with Mahle cast eutectic aluminum alloy pistons, forged connecting rods with cracked caps and threaded-in 9 mm rod bolts, and a cast high


This is good.

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