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Possibly kind of a dumb question: Been experimenting with bismuth crystals lately, and I have an idea for a pendant I'd like to try dipping partially into the molten bismuth. If the piece is silver soldered together and the seam goes into the bismuth, do I have to worry about tin in the solder leeching out into the bismuth since it melts at a lower temp?
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Nov 11, 2020 22:37
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honda whisperer posted:So the guy at work who normally deals with raw stock and the band saws was out for a week. Please do not post example pictures of every crosscut I've ever made. Thank you
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Nov 14, 2020 04:46
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Can anybody recommend a small anvil stand design that’s lightweight/portable? Extra points if it offers height adjustment, or easy conversion between several working heights. I just got gifted a small 10-kilo anvil, I’m currently apartment-bound so it’s probably the biggest anvil i can reasonably carry outside unassisted, along with a stripped-down suite of tools and a stand. i don’t do “heavy” forging, nowadays i mostly do delicate hotwork in 1/8 - 1/4” titanium round rod, or cold forging of copper/brass stock of similar sizes. Normally I’d make a quick stand by bolting together a couple appropriately-long lengths of 4x4” lumber, but 1) that’s probably a lot heavier than i’d like, and 2) a straight-sided block base with a small footprint for standing-height use will be tippy/unstable without some sort of base or additional support, making it even less practical for my needs. also 3) i’ll want to use it while sitting down as well, which a standing-height plinth doesn’t accommodate i’ve always assumed tripod-style angle iron anvil bases are top-heavy and inefficient so i’ve never attempted one, but it feels like a good fit for this specific application. A folding/collapsible/knock-down design would be perfect and maybe even feasible given the lighter work i want to use it for, but i’ve never run into anything that fits that bill so everything i’ve considered would be an experiment and not a proven design e: now that i think of it, a sitting-height anvil base would be small + stable enough that i probably could make it from a solid lumber block and get sth light enough to call “portable”, but working exclusively sitting down is murder on my back so that’s only a half-solution Ambrose Burnside fucked around with this message at 01:41 on Nov 15, 2020 |
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Nov 15, 2020 01:36
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I would think that maybe a triangle top made out of angle iron, just large enough to hold the anvil and some angle iron legs bolted to it that you could fold around the top like a hinge would work. At least it's the first thing that comes to mind given the limits you listed. I've seen some flat-pack camp chairs in that style which is what gave me the idea. immoral_ fucked around with this message at 02:13 on Nov 15, 2020 |
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Nov 15, 2020 02:10
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yeah a folding tripod-type thing is one of my main angles, but the engineering of it gives me pause- how do i transmit the forces involved through (or around) a hinge so it doesn’t explode after 20 minutes of use? now how do i do it on a very small project budget? i’m coming around to wanting to design it the way a leg vise or stake anvil or any other stationary smith’s tools are- transmitting force through itself into the ground as efficiently + directly as possible. go with a knock-down assembly using legs that wedge into triple sockets in a sturdy base plate that mounts the anvil. a square tube + plate welded fabrication along those lines would probably fit the bill but 1) i’m afraid it’ll either need to be of very heavy construction or or light but heat-treated and expensive if i don’t want it to deform and fail with use; and 2) I sold my welder a few years back anyhow, hmmph
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Nov 15, 2020 04:42
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While a welder would be best for the top plate, i think I'd try to use oversized bolts for the pivot/hinge with another bolt to use to lock it in place. It sounded more like you need a stable hard surface to hammer against more than something that could stand up to heavy blows though, so maybe I was mistaken there.
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Nov 15, 2020 21:16
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Anybody ever see something like a pneumatic centerpunch? This is a weird edge-case, but I do weld/fab for work occasionally and batch out anywhere from 12-250 parts at a time. Most of them involve drilling holes (sometimes lots), and unless I'm making 50+ it's not worth the setup time to build a jig for that. I just assembly line all the layout (or make a plate to transfer hole locations) and then centerpunch all of them. I've also got absolutely trashed wrists and elbows, and centerpunching a few dozen to ~100 hole locations is awful and generally ends up with being half-disabled and in pain for a few days at least. I need something like a short, single-hit air hammer. I get the feeling something exists in-industry for this, but it also doesn't seem to exist in the commercial world. I've thought about building something from scratch that would be sort of arbor-press shaped but able to insert a punch as tooling in an anvil, a lever, a spring, and an air cylinder on the lever arm. Sort of like a mini treadle hammer but air actuated for a single hit. In terms of repetitive stress injury, it'd be ideal to handle only the part itself.
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Nov 18, 2020 00:37
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Yeah sure. What size? https://www.qcsupply.com/140760-blitz-kerner-captive-bolt-stunner.html
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Nov 18, 2020 01:08
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Motronic posted:Yeah sure. What size? LOL Flip a coin.
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Nov 18, 2020 02:11
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Steel plate: You don't have to do this. Centerpunch: People always say the same thing. Steel plate: What do they say? Centerpunch: They say, "You don't have to do this." Steel plate: You don't. Centerpunch: Okay. [Centerpunch flips a coin]
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Nov 18, 2020 02:19
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There should be, dot peen data matrix marking system use a pneumatic centre punch sort of thing to mark the codes If not I'll gently caress around with some ideas, I reckon with the right jig and a bit of brain work I could come up with something
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Nov 18, 2020 13:57
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Just use a vibropeen gun. Practice holding it in one spot to create a leader for your drill.
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Nov 18, 2020 14:56
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Hypnolobster posted:Anybody ever see something like a pneumatic centerpunch? This is a weird edge-case, but I do weld/fab for work occasionally and batch out anywhere from 12-250 parts at a time. Most of them involve drilling holes (sometimes lots), and unless I'm making 50+ it's not worth the setup time to build a jig for that. I just assembly line all the layout (or make a plate to transfer hole locations) and then centerpunch all of them. We use pinstamps for marking parts, but I don't see why you couldn't simplify the whole works. The system uses a solenoid to actuate the pin. We use a fairly shallow angle on the carbide pin due to the material we mark, but you can get quite steep angles. There are electromagnet versions too, but I'm not familiar with them.
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Nov 18, 2020 15:00
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Coupla things. My buddy Will who does the Machine Thinking channel took like a year off from making videos, but he's back at it: https://www.youtube.com/watch?v=yzMU8rH4PN8 Some of you may recall that he made a video with our own, not-really-posting-anymore-but-still-counts-as-a-goon ArtistCeleste; she's been making more videos recently too: https://www.youtube.com/channel/UCUFFRgPXg1cqcysYLsih9Pg/videos
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Nov 19, 2020 05:50
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Yeah it popped up in my feed a day ago, subscribed to his channel since last year. Myself I've just been padding beads, welding junk with the new mig welder for practice. I started experiencing stuttering last night though halfway through this set of beads, wire feed speed seemed good to me though, did try and fiddle with the controls but didn't seem to get any better, even with the clamp on the piece itself and using a piece of copper braid for better conductivity. I dunno if a new clamp might help any. 
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Nov 19, 2020 07:36
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I had his channel notifications turned on and I was excited to see a new video. Going to be a cool series.
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Nov 19, 2020 11:25
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His Divine Shadow posted:Yeah it popped up in my feed a day ago, subscribed to his channel since last year. Check your contact tip, there could be spatter putting drag on the wire causing the stutter, or try tightening the tension on the drive rollers, if it gets better the liner in your gun might be the problem.
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Nov 19, 2020 11:44
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I had some feed problems with the little flux core we have at work. One thing that has helped, is using a small foam ear plug to run the wire through before it goes in to the rollers and the gun/liner. Its *supposed* to help keep dust and little particles out of the liner that might clog things. But yeah, like suggested above, check the contact point, and also find yourself some Nozzle dip if you don't have it already.
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Nov 19, 2020 12:29
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I did check the contact tip but didn't see anything funny about it, it was newly replaced anyway. I have no idea about the state of the liner though so who knows a new one might be good. It's not the original torch but still a good brand (Binzel MB25 evo pro). But it looks like it has had some use.  I bought a new clamp anyway because the old one is in bad shape, got the biggest one rated for 400A:  edit: I went and took a closer look at the drive setup after work today and a more detailed investigation at how the parts worked showed the adjustment isn't some kind of pre-tension on the wire, but does adjust the feed roller pressure, it was a bit low, turning up the roller pressure fixed the stuttering. So a very basic problem... I find the manual to be a bit too bare bones sometimes, it certainly did not help me understand the setup better. His Divine Shadow fucked around with this message at 18:37 on Nov 19, 2020 |
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Nov 19, 2020 14:03
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I don't recall if you've mentioned it, but if you're using flux core wire, its possible to tighten the drive wheels too much. Just FYI, incase you are.
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Nov 19, 2020 22:57
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Is there any disadvantage to cutting rods off the screw of my c-clamps and welding nuts in their place so I can use wrenches or sockets to tighten them down? I was figuring I could drill out the nuts to the size of the screw and put a common sized nut on them like a 14-9/16 or 19-3/4, I'm not seeing a downside but that probably means I'm not thinking this through all the way.
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Nov 22, 2020 16:36
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I mean, you could make the argument that it makes it harder to use without a second tool, but enh? Usually commercially those are square head instead of hex but it's a thing that is popular enough to exist. There's also c-clamps that have hex head shaped ends with the handle in there too so you get both worlds.
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Nov 22, 2020 16:54
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Is there not enough metal to just weld a nut on without sawing off the handle?
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Nov 22, 2020 17:03
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I have several of the Irwin (I think) with the rod that slides back and forth through them that always ends up bent and stuck one way or the other, I'm hoping by welding a nut on them that it will be easier to tighten them when they are really close to an edge or corner. I almost always have an extra wrench handy or my socket set out anyway so I figured needing a second tool wouldn't be an issue.
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Nov 22, 2020 17:49
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If you've got a special purpose then sure, go for it. As noted you can buy clamps that have a nut head (usually square) instead of a handle for getting into tight areas and/or increasing clamping force past what you can do by hand. A hex nut would probably be more practical.
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Nov 22, 2020 18:45
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Just make sure if you do that, that the body of the clamp can take the extra force. I've broken some just tightening them by hand.
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Nov 22, 2020 18:52
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So frustrating! Spent several hours on sunday making my own edge finder from a piece of stainless, when I went to test it out I dunno what happened, but somehow it caught on the side of the vise jaws and tore up a huge gouge in the edge finder. Now it's scrap unless I can maybe cut it down a little, kinda short already though.
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Nov 23, 2020 09:52
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His Divine Shadow posted:So frustrating! Spent several hours on sunday making my own edge finder from a piece of stainless, when I went to test it out I dunno what happened, but somehow it caught on the side of the vise jaws and tore up a huge gouge in the edge finder. That's frustrating! Post a pic, maybe there's an alternate use waiting to be found.
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Nov 23, 2020 19:17
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I'm working on a part to adapt a 3/8-24 brake part to a 1/4" NPT gauge, and I'd like to crank a few out with the CNC machine. Can I get away with a single tooth thread mill and cut the taper wall first, or do I really need a super expensive tapered thread mill that I'd only ever use for this one job.
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Nov 24, 2020 02:39
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You can walk the taper out if your cam or control supports it. Also lets you do other threads in the future. I feel the baked in taper is more for stuff that doesn't as with that much flute engagement there's a ton of tool pressure so it takes a bunch of passes. But you only have to program one circle to get the whole thread. They even have handy calculators on their sites that will spit out the gcode and it's short enough to hand type.
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Nov 24, 2020 03:02
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honda whisperer posted:You can walk the taper out if your cam or control supports it. Also lets you do other threads in the future. Cheers! Thanks, yeah using Fusion and it appears to be able to do that, in fact it seems to fall on its face if you try and use the fancier tooling instead of a simple thread mill.
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Nov 24, 2020 03:07
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Uncle Enzo posted:That's frustrating! Post a pic, maybe there's an alternate use waiting to be found. I already fixed it, cut off the damaged part, it's not very long now but I think it works, 16mm diameter:  I think I want to make some more in other diameters.
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Nov 25, 2020 08:28
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Speaking of thread mills and such, my new job requires me to do a lot more cnc milling, something I don't have much experience with. I'd never hosed with thread mills, they always kind of scared me. Are they worth it? I've been using form taps and they have been working well so far. We mainly cut aluminum and 420ss.
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Nov 25, 2020 14:18
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A Proper Uppercut posted:Speaking of thread mills and such, my new job requires me to do a lot more cnc milling, something I don't have much experience with. I'd never hosed with thread mills, they always kind of scared me. Are they worth it? I've been using form taps and they have been working well so far. We mainly cut aluminum and 420ss. When I was CNC tapping it’s usually 4-40 through 1/4” so can’t speak to internal but for external threads it’s def awesome. I was scared of them at first too.
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Nov 25, 2020 15:01
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I don't do CNC, but I work with shops that do. Several of them use them 100% of the time in high-dollar difficult to tap parts. For example, one of my products uses a 5" OD, 4" ID, 21" Long Gr5 Titanium housing. That housing has 4x 8-32 tapped holes on one end, and 4x6-32 holes on the OD. Needless to say, the last thing they want to do is gently caress up a thread in a very expensive piece of stock, so they take the time to threadmill the holes. Much less chance of snapping a tap (especially a 6-32 which is just about the worst), less chance of work hardening the piece, and if the threadmill breaks, you can just blow out the pieces and try again or finish by hand tapping. Sure, you just broke a $200 tool, but you saved a $1500+ piece of stock. Take your time, prove out your programs, talk to the tool rep, and you'll figure out out. It's a no brainier for external threads.
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Nov 26, 2020 01:25
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A Proper Uppercut posted:Speaking of thread mills and such, my new job requires me to do a lot more cnc milling, something I don't have much experience with. I'd never hosed with thread mills, they always kind of scared me. Are they worth it? I've been using form taps and they have been working well so far. We mainly cut aluminum and 420ss. In aluminum it's easier just to stick with taps. Thread mills are nice with harder materials since you can compensate for wear, and they don't break catastrophically and scrap the part. They just get some teeth knocked off. The cycle time is slower though.
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Nov 26, 2020 03:05
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Are thse tap/drill bit combinations actualy useful? Speaking or tapping things. Not looking to buy one, just curious because I see them on a regular basis. It seems like they might be ok for something really soft but not steel for example.
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Nov 26, 2020 03:22
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wesleywillis posted:Are thse tap/drill bit combinations actualy useful? They're awesome for sheet steel or thin aluminum electrical boxes. Junk for anything else IMHO.
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Nov 26, 2020 04:01
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A Proper Uppercut posted:Speaking of thread mills and such, my new job requires me to do a lot more cnc milling, something I don't have much experience with. I'd never hosed with thread mills, they always kind of scared me. Are they worth it? I've been using form taps and they have been working well so far. We mainly cut aluminum and 420ss. As said above when you break a thread mill you just blow out the hole and try again. They're also nice in blind holes where the drill depth is held. I'd recommend getting one and learning to use it. As far as I can tell 6-32 is satan's thread. The job I'm working on now gets 4 per part, 50ish parts, 304ss. Oh yeah also the material has to be DFARS compliant and the guy who ordered the stock got zero extra pieces. So thread mill it is. wesleywillis posted:Are thse tap/drill bit combinations actualy useful? I think they're for heavy production where the time for a tool change will add up over thousands of parts. Could also let you do a part on a more limited machine. Drill/chamfer/tap takes up 3 tools and +2 for each additional size. On a cnc lathe that has 8 tool pockets on it's turret you get creative.
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Nov 26, 2020 14:41
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honda whisperer posted:As said above when you break a thread mill you just blow out the hole and try again. They're also nice in blind holes where the drill depth is held. I'd recommend getting one and learning to use it. Yeah. My machinists all hate the 6-32. It has the worst ratio of thread depth to root diameter. I'd design it out, but the clamps that I use only take #6 fasteners. I won't use it in SS or TI designs if I'm staying from scratch. 4-40 or 8-32. In aluminum, it's fine. As for the combo tools, there's a big difference between this: https://smile.amazon.com/dp/B01GWSYXOC And this: https://www.harveytool.com/products/combination-drillthread-mills Or: https://www.regalcuttingtools.com/products/threading-taps/unipass-drillntap-combo-tools The first is what I was talking about. If the second is what's in question, then it's a whole different ballgame.
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Nov 26, 2020 16:02
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