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ryanrs posted:So it's my understanding that siphoning gas out of the tank is not so viable on modern cars. What about my 2000 Toyota Sienna (1st gen)? Keeping a small can of gasoline to help out others is going to be a whole hell of a lot easier than attempting to siphon some fuel out of the tank. A good quality, properly sealed and secured jerry can will do fine.
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Nov 18, 2020 03:00
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It may not be legal to carry a can of gas in your vehicle.Motronic posted:The cap/filler isn't the problem with siphoning gas out of modern cars. It's literally anti-siphon foot valves to keep this from happening as well as fuel from leaking out in a rollover. These are located in the tank. No I'm not going to tell anyone here how to bypass them. I learned about this when replacing the tank in my son's '01 Accord. It had a seam leak & it was winter. After a couple of fruitless hours trying all of the things Motronic is inferring might work (but don't), I did what any sane* person would do and removed the sending unit & pumped the tank dry with a $7.99 battery-operated siphon pump from Harbor Freight**. *no **No more playing the lottery for me
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Nov 18, 2020 04:01
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Javid posted:Necroing from pages ago now that I can actually dig into this issue Oh right, I'm sorry, I led you on a wild goose chase there. I'm used to the design they started using in 93 or 94 on various models where the VSS is the entire unit that plugs into the trans, and you have to pull the speedo gear off it and move it to the new one and clock that correctly going in. You have the slightly older design that's literally the old mechanical speedo cable drive assembly with a vss unit screwed into it where the mechanical speedo cable used to go. The only thing I can think of is that the drive gear has simply worn out, it takes one bolt to check it but you may need a new oring seal putting it back together and, yeah, gotta clock it right.
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Nov 18, 2020 04:59
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Trying to revive a friend's 96 (? might be a 95?) Maxima. It's been parked for ~5 years. She knows it runs like crap. I know it runs like REAL crap (I helped move it out of the garage it'd been parked in forever); it can't idle on its own even in park/neutral, the CEL pops on immediately even if it's the first start after hooking up a battery, and it usually takes 3-5 attempts to get it to start. I know a lot of this is very likely ancient gas. Let's assume for the moment that old gas is the only issue, what would you look at to bring a 90s Maxima back to life? I'm guessing fuel pump, fuel filter at the least (though thankfully the tank is nearly empty), all other fluids, new battery, new tires, etc. Her BF's car just shat out an engine, so she's hoping to get this tagged and back on the road for him. Emissions shouldn't be an issue as it'll be past the cutoff year for smog here by the time it's actually running (if we get it running). Sidenote: TBH I kinda suspect just the cost of tires and getting it caught up on fluids + timing belt will far outweigh the value of the car, despite it being pretty low mileage and in good shape visually. It's on the original timing belt.  (I kinda suspect it may have jumped a tooth on one cam with how it ran last year... I haven't pulled codes on it though, can't keep the drat thing running long enough to pull codes without throwing a battery at it, all electrics die as soon as the engine stalls).
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Nov 18, 2020 15:36
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 Trying to repaint a body panel and I'm getting this discolouration, no number of layers improves it. I'm doing it outside and it's about 8°C and fairly humid, I guess that's what's causing it?
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Nov 18, 2020 16:06
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STR posted:Trying to revive a friend's 96 (? might be a 95?) Maxima. In what condition is the battery that you're using? If it can't generate a consistent minimum current, the car will run like poo poo. I'd run some kind of injector cleaner in it. There's likely all kinds shellac on the wet fuely bits. Make sure the air intake isn't harboring a mouse nest / obstruction blocking airflow. You likely can't tell more until it runs some.
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Nov 18, 2020 16:51
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Grakkus posted:
Besides the temperature, the first thing I'd be looking for with something like that is contamination. Probably silicone.
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Nov 18, 2020 17:49
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Motronic posted:Besides the temperature, the first thing I'd be looking for with something like that is contamination. Probably silicone. Thanks, how can I identify this/rule it out?
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Nov 18, 2020 18:46
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PainterofCrap posted:In what condition is the battery that you're using? If it can't generate a consistent minimum current, the car will run like poo poo. Yeah not even gonna try until there's a working battery in the mix. The last time we moved it, we just disconnected the battery and hooked the jumper cables up directly to the battery cables - it was enough to get the car to start, out of the garage, and to a place where it could be towed. Shut it down before pulling the cables, but that was a 3 person process (1 in each car, one to hold the cables to make sure they didn't touch anything). We did try jumping it after that with the battery back in the mix, and it did start, but it only ran for about 30 seconds. Gauges went apeshit immediately. Once it died the interior lights faded to nothing within a couple of seconds. Probably just chunk my own battery in it for test purposes to see if we can even get it to run, along with some fresh gas in the tank. A 12V car battery is a 12V car battery so long as you don't mix up the terminals. randomidiot fucked around with this message at 19:57 on Nov 18, 2020 |
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Nov 18, 2020 19:53
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Grakkus posted:Thanks, how can I identify this/rule it out? I mean, I'd start with the environment you're working in. Not knowing how you did or didn't prep this surface for paint, where you are painting, what else is in the area I'd just be taking a shot in the dark. I'd suggest you need to let this cure, sand, prime, prep properly and do it again. It hardly matters what did it this time as long as it doesn't happen again. It's not even clear how much you are painting that worked successfully so that's another reason it's hard to give advice. Also, I'm at total amateur painter. I've done like 5 full cars over the years and a lot of panels.
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Nov 18, 2020 22:37
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Deteriorata posted:Keeping a small can of gasoline to help out others is going to be a whole hell of a lot easier than attempting to siphon some fuel out of the tank. Don't carry gas in your car. Pay $10/year for roadside assistance through insurance and let them bring the gas.
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Nov 19, 2020 01:53
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MrKatharsis posted:Don't carry gas in your car. Pay $10/year for roadside assistance through insurance and let them bring the gas. Roadside isn't going to help you when you're on something only legally defined as "a road".
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Nov 19, 2020 02:16
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Did 2000 Toyotas like my Sienna have fancy anti-siphon valves? I'm mostly interested in taking gas out of my van and putting it into a stranger's car. (This is why Im not very invested in having this capability if it's a pain in the rear end.)
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Nov 19, 2020 07:05
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They've been around since at least the early to mid 90s. Depends on the car, but a 2000, yes.
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Nov 19, 2020 14:00
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Ram van again. This fucker Has turned into cheese with age and oil spatter, and is so loose in its barb fitting that the g-forces of normal driving will let air fart in. A zip tie will improve this, but not entirely eliminate the issue that brought it to my attention (the cruise making GBS threads out at random) Is this a part I can dream of finding, or will I have to hamfist this with some kind of tubing? I did some medium effort phone googling (because of course this pops up 900 miles from home in mid road trip) and found plenty of the generic push-on vac elbows but nothing with the double female barb configuration this has Bonus: the barb it goes on, which appears to have been precision engineered to be invisible from almost every possible angle, and impossible to access with any tool 
Javid fucked around with this message at 08:33 on Nov 20, 2020 |
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Nov 20, 2020 08:29
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If you can find a generic 90 degree barb of the correct diameter, could you macgyver something up with some random fittings from a hydraulic/pneumatics supply store. Like, instead of a "V" type fitting, you could probably find a "T" barbed fitting that would work. I don't know how feasible that is when you're in the middle of a road trip, but once you get home, it should be easy enough.
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Nov 20, 2020 12:35
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I put new pads and rotors on my car last week. This week, the front left one has started making a noise when I let off the gas and coast. It's a rhythmic tok-tok-tok-tok that obviously corresponds to wheel speed. I assume it's the pads rattling because it goes away when I apply the brakes. For some reason that's not clear to me, it also doesn't happen under acceleration, only when I'm maintaining speed or coasting down. What did I mess up and how can I fix it? I suspect it might be because I reused the old springs, which, well, this is the stupid questions thread after all Sagebrush fucked around with this message at 22:17 on Nov 20, 2020 |
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Nov 20, 2020 22:14
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Sagebrush posted:I put new pads and rotors on my car last week. This week, the front left one has started making a noise when I let off the gas and coast. It's a rhythmic tok-tok-tok-tok that obviously corresponds to wheel speed. I assume it's the pads rattling because it goes away when I apply the brakes. For some reason that's not clear to me, it also doesn't happen under acceleration, only when I'm maintaining speed or coasting down. A similar sound happened to me after a front brake job when I didn't tighten down the caliper bolts enough. Not saying thats the problem, just something to check..
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Nov 21, 2020 01:59
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Truly stupid question resulting from truly stupid action here: There’s a knot of about 3 inches of 3/16” plastic tubing lodged in my 2016 Civic’s (EX 2.0L Sedan) oil dipstick tube. It might be possible to extract from the top. It’s pretty close. But if the extraction fails and the tubing falls down into the oil reservoir, would it be blocked by a filter from entering the parts of the engine where it could really gently caress poo poo up? Could I expect it to come out from the drain pan?
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Nov 22, 2020 14:01
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Should be able to remove the dipstick tube. Might be one bolt or clip holding it and just press fit at the bottom. Just a general answer though.
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Nov 22, 2020 21:57
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That’s what I definitely would’ve done for my 99 Civic, and I can’t say for sure because there’s a big plastic cover obscuring the truth, but it looks like the dipstick shaft’s base is inside the engine block...?? Can’t find the part online anywhere to reference but I’m just using google. I’ll be taking it in to the shop on Monday, about to admit defeat. The obstruction is stuck like glue. I could probably tear it up with a drill and then flush all the oil, but it seems risky.
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Nov 22, 2020 22:25
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SMERSH Mouth posted:Truly stupid question resulting from truly stupid action here: tell us about the truly stupid action pls 
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Nov 22, 2020 22:30
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owlhawk911 posted:tell us about the truly stupid action pls I wonder how many pencils it would take to drive that plastic bit out of the tube
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Nov 22, 2020 22:39
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SMERSH Mouth posted:That’s what I definitely would’ve done for my 99 Civic, and I can’t say for sure because there’s a big plastic cover obscuring the truth, but it looks like the dipstick shaft’s base is inside the engine block...?? TELL THE STORY SMERSH MOUTH
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Nov 22, 2020 22:45
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Are more expensive Headlight globes worth the money? I can get these for $25 a bulb https://www.autobarn.com.au/philips-light-bulb-el01932-12972llecob1 Or these for ~$47 a bulb https://www.autobarn.com.au/philips-h7-x-tremevision-100-12v-55w-px26d-twin-pack-12972xvsm Am I going to get considerably more light for almost double to money?
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Nov 23, 2020 01:54
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I'm guessing an attempt to drain the oil using a long hose and a vacuum oil removal device was made but the hose tangled inside the crankcase and now will not come back out. Kind of like this. https://www.google.com/amp/s/www.menshealth.com/health/amp22091542/boy-gets-usb-cable-stuck-in-penis/
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Nov 23, 2020 05:16
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Thank god the end of that url was exposed before clicking.
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Nov 23, 2020 13:49
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C-Bangin' it 
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slothrop posted:Are more expensive Headlight globes worth the money? Those are at the far opposite end of the spectrum. The "Ecobulb" line puts out even less light (and uses very slightly less power) than a regular bulb; I thought Phillips had dropped them entirely TBH, I haven't seen those in years. Mainly targeting Prius owners who want to make their cars as efficient as possible. Having used Xtremevision bulbs, they offer a slight improvement, but they don't last nearly as long as a plain bulb (expect a year or so), and they wind up dimming to about the level of a regular bulb after a bit of use. There will be a noticeable difference between them and Ecobulbs, but not so much between them and your plain ol' headlight bulb. My 2 cents: make sure your headlamp housings are nice and clear (no yellowing - grab a polish and clearcoat kit if they are), and slap a set of regular bulbs in. Halogens do dim as they get hours put on them, and the original bulbs in cars are known to last forfuckingever (I've pulled 10+ year old headlight bulbs out of a few cars now). randomidiot fucked around with this message at 15:07 on Nov 23, 2020 |
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Nov 23, 2020 15:03
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I did some research ages ago and I think General Electric made the best bulbs that also don't burn out in 4 months. You are paying a ton in longevity for the extra few % of light.
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Nov 23, 2020 16:38
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Sagebrush posted:I put new pads and rotors on my car last week. This week, the front left one has started making a noise After putting a note on my phone "go back and retighten lug nuts after driving around a few days," I forgot to do that, and two of the nuts were finger loose and a third was getting there.  Listen to your conscience
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Nov 23, 2020 20:16
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I wonder how common that is. I've never had anything else than the torque wrench either immediately clicking or very minor turns before being at spec. I do get nervous about it until I've checked it though.
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Nov 23, 2020 21:15
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MrOnBicycle posted:I wonder how common that is. I've never had anything else than the torque wrench either immediately clicking or very minor turns before being at spec. Depends on the wheels/nuts. This was "drat near every time" common on my '97 F150 with the aluminum off road package wheels. To the point there was a recall of the nuts. The new ones......were not much better.
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Nov 23, 2020 21:26
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Well this one is a 2002 Ford with aluminum wheels. I wonder if there's some commonality there. Could be the same nuts.
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Nov 23, 2020 21:30
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are car dealers buying used cars for OK prices right now? I don't want to go through private sales due to covid concerns. Until covid is over, we're only using one car, so is it a good idea to sell the second car now so we don't have to deal with maintenance on it?
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Nov 24, 2020 00:52
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Chainclaw posted:are car dealers buying used cars for OK prices right now? Other than keeping the car on a battery tender, and maybe driving it once a month, what maintenance are you doing on a parked car? My insurance agent let me suspend coverage for 6 months, but that only works because it’s paid off. If you sell this car, then need another one in half a year, will you get boned on sales tax? My state only gives you 90 days to subtract sales tax from a vehicle sale and subsequent purchase
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Nov 24, 2020 01:36
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eddiewalker posted:Other than keeping the car on a battery tender, and maybe driving it once a month, what maintenance are you doing on a parked car? I'm roughly planning for no change in the situation for at least another 7 months, and I'm expecting 2 more years. My WFH situation is officially extended to June or July, and I wouldn't be surprised if it goes longer than that. The car that's driven more has the fun features, a backup camera and Apple Carplay, so I have the feeling that once we're back in a world of needing 2 cars, we would want to upgrade the second car anyways.
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Nov 24, 2020 03:17
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My '04 Kia Amanti/Opirus threw a new warning light today (the check engine light has been on for awhile, because the tach sensor crapped out, still runs fine, so meh), a picture of a lightbulb with an x over it. The manual says that means a taillight is out. I went out and looked at the lights, and the rear end end was fine (I didn't have an assistant to check the brake lights, but could see the glow in the mirrors), but the front ... That's just with the headlights on in normal mode, the inner ones are the high beams, and all four come on when I flick the stalk and the blue indicator lights up on the dash. gently caress car wiring.
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Nov 24, 2020 07:19
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Bad Angus! Bad!
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2015 Nissan Juke Nismo . 115k miles The vicinity of the Rear, Driver side wheel is HOT when I shut the car off . The smell is that of when you leave an empty kettle on the stove. I suspect it’s a wheel bearing but there is no noise and no resistance when driving . Does that sound like a wheel bearing ? How much is this likely to cost ? Dr.Caligari fucked around with this message at 16:05 on Nov 24, 2020 |
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Nov 24, 2020 16:01
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Dr.Caligari posted:2015 Nissan Juke Nismo . 115k miles How are your brakes? Stuck caliper or parking brake?
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Nov 24, 2020 16:32
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^^^ What eddie said. That sounds like a sticky caliper.
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Nov 24, 2020 17:38
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