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kimbo305 posted:Which chainring are you using usually? And what cadence do you pedal at? I’m usually at the middle chain in the front, and 7-8th cog in the back on the street. On trails, more like 2 front and 4-6 in the back. As for cadence, no idea; I’ve never measured it.
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Nov 14, 2020 17:39
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Maybe to baby those worn down gears, you could run the big ring up front and use the bigger cogs.
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Nov 14, 2020 19:58
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I just got hit by car that turned into me. It was pretty low speed, maybe 5-10mph. I’m completely fine. I rode my bike home and I might need to put a new rear derailleur hanger on it, or maybe just re-index it. Hard to tell. The shift levers on the the side I fell into are a little “soft” now. Is there anything I need to look for? I have a carbon fork on my bike but it doesn’t look like it took any of the hit. I think the guy connected with my metal platform pedal and my elbow mainly. His car was pretty hosed up that’s why I’m kind of incredulous I was able to ride away
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Nov 14, 2020 20:19
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Time posted:I just got hit by car that turned into me. It was pretty low speed, maybe 5-10mph. I’m completely fine. I rode my bike home and I might need to put a new rear derailleur hanger on it, or maybe just re-index it. Hard to tell. The shift levers on the the side I fell into are a little “soft” now. Did the bike land completely on the ground to one side, the RD side, I'm guessing? Look at the RD from the rear and see if it's bent on the hanger. That could explain the change in shift feel. You might be able to compensate with cable tension adjustment, but you might not. If it's a really minor bend, you could try hand bending the other way. Try to hold the whole body of the RD if you do that, and start with really small forces and test frequently.
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Nov 14, 2020 20:26
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kimbo305 posted:Did the bike land completely on the ground to one side, the RD side, I'm guessing? That’s exactly what happened - I’ll do that, thanks. This is all very annoying, I just had everything dialed in finally. Now I have to second guess everything from like “are this fenders going to rub now” to “is my fork going to explode if I hit a pothole”
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Nov 14, 2020 20:29
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Time posted:That’s exactly what happened - I’ll do that, thanks. Glad you're alright and yeah I'd just reindex the RD or replace the hanger if it's a replaceable part.
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Nov 14, 2020 21:04
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Is the fork steerer carbon? What's the frame material? I'd pull the fork and check the steer tube to be safe. Get the bike on a stand and check the frame for cracks or stress in the paint. If you see a questionable chip on any carbon part, tap it with a quarter or screw driver. A crack in the carbon will sound deader than the area around it.
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Nov 14, 2020 23:07
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VelociBacon posted:We need info on your current bike so we can find parts. OK, I had a good look at my old bike as I was swapping accessories over to the new bike yesterday. ExecuDork posted:
 Old bike parts to replace by Martin Brummell, on FlickrThe engraved markings on the inside of the crank arm say "170 L FCTY30 Shimano" which I take to mean it's 170mm long. Note the severe wear around the square hole on the left crank arm. Whoever suggested that when I started complaining about that arm getting loose was spot-on.  Old bike parts to replace by Martin Brummell, on FlickrI haven't found any markings on the FD other than "Shimano". Do bottom brackets vary in size? I could measure the diameter and width of that space, if needed.  Old bike parts to replace by Martin Brummell, on Flickr Less blurry by Martin Brummell, on FlickrThose markings are: "Intergrated 6-7 SIS MAX 28T TOTAL 35T" and another look at the freewheel set with dork disk.  Old bike parts to replace by Martin Brummell, on FlickrThe chain is 146 cm long and has 114 links. Am I right in thinking the best solution might be to buy a complete drivetrain: cranks, chainring, BB, both derailleurs, and chain all as one package?
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Nov 15, 2020 04:08
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ExecuDork posted:Do bottom brackets vary in size? I could measure the diameter and width of that space, if needed. Your bike almost certainly has a BSA/English 68mm bottom bracket shell. If it's 68mm side to side, it's BSA. Your BB itself might have some markings on it, under grease or dirt. It's a square taper BB, which means the cranks friction fit the ends of the spindle by way of those tapered square holes. The major sizing you'd want to respect off the BB is the spindle length. You could go a bit longer, but going shorter risks clearance issues. quote:The chain is 146 cm long and has 114 links. quote:Am I right in thinking the best solution might be to buy a complete drivetrain: cranks, chainring, BB, both derailleurs, and chain all as one package? BB, cranks, chainrings is an obvious combo. Crankset, FD, RD is another. Chain and cassette frequently don't get included, but they might. Not sure how Amazon or eBay are looking for older loose parts, but looks like you can still get a 7 speed chain for <$20 AUD.
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Nov 15, 2020 04:26
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That depends how much fiddling you want to do. I would personally try reusing the derailleurs because I can't bring myself to spend new part money on anything less than 8 speed. Hell, I even kept my 6 speed derailleurs when I upgraded to 8 speed. Either decide you want to spend the money on a new cassette style wheel or Get the cheap stuff for that bike : -tourney crankset - FC-TY501 48/38/28t - crank arm length is up to you -bottom bracket - un300 122.5 spindle length - measure the shell width, it is probably 68mm, but double check. -shimano 14-28 freewheel - if you have an indexed shifter make sure the number of speeds match. -Whatever 6/7/8 speed chain you want. 8 speed chains are generally backwards compatible down to 5 speed.
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Nov 15, 2020 04:43
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ExecuDork posted:Those markings are: As you probably know, the max marking is the biggest cog the derailleur can handle. The total is almost certainly the derailleur's capacity, which is the unintuitive (max chainring-min chainring) + (max cog-min cog) measurement. To use CopperHound's examples (48-28) + (28-14) = 34T, or within capacity. If you go over, any chain long enough to accommodate the large-large gear combination will have slack in the small-small gear combination, because the derailleur cage just can't take up that much chain. Since you're thinking of going to a 7-speed, it's an important one to look at with any new gearset you pick up! Also please clean your derailleur pulleys, that's not helping your chain any. I'll second double checking your spindle length on the old BB. Chainline's just not a fun thing to mess with.
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Nov 15, 2020 05:18
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Time posted:I just got hit by car that turned into me. It was pretty low speed, maybe 5-10mph. I’m completely fine. I rode my bike home and I might need to put a new rear derailleur hanger on it, or maybe just re-index it. Hard to tell. The shift levers on the the side I fell into are a little “soft” now. If it was clearly the driver's fault and you got his information, your best bet is probably getting a new bike through insurance. They (insurance companies) have been pretty liberal with paying off for bike accidents in my experience.
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Nov 15, 2020 23:08
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kimbo305 posted:Your bike almost certainly has a BSA/English 68mm bottom bracket shell. If it's 68mm side to side, it's BSA. I can believe my measurement of the chain, stretched out on the paving stones behind the house, was off by 1.2cm. The shop told me I need a new chain and I"m willing to trust them on this. I like the prospect of having a collection of parts that all started getting used on my bike at the same time and a new chain seems like a good thing. CopperHound posted:That depends how much fiddling you want to do. I would personally try reusing the derailleurs because I can't bring myself to spend new part money on anything less than 8 speed. Hell, I even kept my 6 speed derailleurs when I upgraded to 8 speed. squirrelnow posted:As you probably know, the max marking is the biggest cog the derailleur can handle. The total is almost certainly the derailleur's capacity, which is the unintuitive (max chainring-min chainring) + (max cog-min cog) measurement. To use CopperHound's examples (48-28) + (28-14) = 34T, or within capacity. If you go over, any chain long enough to accommodate the large-large gear combination will have slack in the small-small gear combination, because the derailleur cage just can't take up that much chain. Since you're thinking of going to a 7-speed, it's an important one to look at with any new gearset you pick up! I haven't spent any time actually looking for parts on-line, yet, I just spent a chunk of savings on my new bike and I'm happy to take my time with the old bike. But I'll have a poke around.
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Nov 16, 2020 02:11
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ExecuDork posted:I measured it this morning, 68mm side to side so we'll go with BSA - thanks, that's excellent information. So when you go to install a replacement BB, take it easy and hand thread in slowly. It shouldn't take much force to thread in a few revolutions. quote:I can believe my measurement of the chain, stretched out on the paving stones behind the house, was off by 1.2cm. Sorry, I'll be clearer -- if the predicted new length is 144.8cm and you measured 146cm, that's a growth of 0.8%, which is not much. If a chain has stretched 5% (depending on how you measure), then it's well expired and probably has caused some premature wear to your cassette and chainrings. Between 1% and 5%, there's argument on when you should replace.
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Nov 16, 2020 08:05
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I'm not sure how you're measuring chain stretch, but every chain I have tried replacing that was stretched more than 1% when measuring with a ruler needed a new cassette also. E: Pretend I'm including my annual rant about how most chain wear gauges are poorly designed here.
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Nov 16, 2020 16:49
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Might not be the best thread, but any help would be appreciated. I picked up '74 Sekine a few weeks back and have been planning on swapping out the seat tube. Current one has a separate saddle clamp, and just want something something easier to adjust and a bit slicker looking. But I'm having a bit of trouble with sizing. The existing tube is marked as a 25.4, and measuring it this morning with a micrometer puts it pretty much at exactly that. Digging around posts on other forums, it looks like the tube should be closer to 26.4 - 26.8 in sizing. Looking at the top rear of the tube, at the gap at the back it looks like it's been "squeezed" together to accommodate the smaller post:   I guess my question is what the best course of action is here. I was planning on trying to stretch the opening out so the gap at the back of the tube is roughly parallel, and go to the LBS to see what the tube size really is. But not sure if having such a smaller post in there would mean about the integrity of the tube? Or if I should just not rock the boat and stick with 25.4. Bolts and fittings are quite stiff so want to know what I'm doing before trying to wrench things apart. With regards to replacement posts, ~26.6 seems like an easier and cheaper size to come by - and would be "correct", not that I'm too bothered by that.
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Nov 16, 2020 19:48
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First of all that part is called a seat post, seat tube is the part of the frame the post slides in to. Reading the first sentences I was expecting a wild ride in diy framebuilding. The correct size depends on the tubing used on the frame - basically how expensive it was. If it's not a high end frame 25,4mm was a pretty common size in the 70s. The Sekines you linked are their top models from the period. Can't tell from the photos what "level" your frame is but the lug being squeezed together like that isn't that uncommon in my experience. 1,2mm too small seat post shouldn't really work at all. Have you been able to ride the bike sitting on the saddle? The first thing in any case would be to try if the seat post is free or not. After you have it moving you should be able to tell if it's the correct size or not. The post should just fit inside the tube all the way down. If it doesn't feel right I'd take it to the lbs since it might take a couple of tries to find the correct size.
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Nov 16, 2020 20:49
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CopperHound posted:I'm not sure how you're measuring chain stretch, but every chain I have tried replacing that was stretched more than 1% when measuring with a ruler needed a new cassette also.
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Nov 16, 2020 21:59
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Havana Affair posted:First of all that part is called a seat post, seat tube is the part of the frame the post slides in to. Reading the first sentences I was expecting a wild ride in diy framebuilding. Oh yeah whoops, that's a pretty big typo. From the components and chrome socks at seat- and chainstays, I'm 90% sure it's a SHS, which is firmly bottom of the top end of the line - so it's definitely a cromo frame, or at least it has the sticker. Which makes the weirdly small tube size all the weirder. The bike rides well with maybe some sliding of the post? while sitting on the saddle. Can get the post out easily enough though it's kind of a tight fit. At the very least the squeezed back doesn't look right. I don't know, it's my first foray into vintage frames so I'll probably just quit fussing with it and let the dudes who know what they're doing take a look at it.
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Nov 16, 2020 22:22
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dieselfruit posted:Might not be the best thread, but any help would be appreciated. I picked up '74 Sekine a few weeks back and have been planning on swapping out the seat tube. Current one has a separate saddle clamp, and just want something something easier to adjust and a bit slicker looking. But I'm having a bit of trouble with sizing. Get the right sized seatpost, pry that part of the frame apart until it fits, if it's steel you shouldn't really have any issues. Go slowly!
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Nov 17, 2020 00:35
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Seatpost sizes come in 0.2 mm increments (there are a few odd number sizes out there, but that is a special thing. Based on the picture I have a suspicion that that isn't the wrong size seatpost, but the collar area is stretched some. I think 26.6 will not fit. Open of the collar area so the slot cut in it is parallel and see if the post is tight, snug, loose, or hotdog down a hallway in the section of tube below the slot. If it slides under it's own weight without having wiggle play, just go up one size to 25.6.
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Nov 17, 2020 16:49
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I will never buy another set of mechanical disc brakes that only have adjustment on one side. It took me entirely too long to replace the pads and get them seated without disc rub. Every time I would have it seated in what I thought was the right spot, it would move just a hair out of alignment as I tightened it down. Having to unscrew and reseat the entire housing to adjust it, rather than use a knob, seems dumb I know this is baby bike mechanic stuff but I needed to let that out.
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Nov 23, 2020 14:21
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Unless you're building a dj bike with a gyro there's no reason to deal with mech brakes for any reason next time. Used hydros are basically free and the new ones are super cheap also.
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Nov 23, 2020 14:31
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Depending on what type of brakes you’re talking about that is not necessarily true re: new brakes. SRAM road hydro levers and brakes are almost $500 for Rival level. I also know some people who tour online like how its easier to fix mech on the road
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Nov 23, 2020 16:01
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luke warm take: If HY/RDs fit your frame there is pretty much zero reason to not have them.
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Nov 23, 2020 16:25
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I think I’ll probably go to hydraulic the next time these need to be worked on. It just looks so much easier... Hate getting rid of parts that still work or could work with new pads though. Maybe save them for a future frankenbike or something.
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Nov 23, 2020 16:30
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Yeah, hydros have so much more power that you can leave them less adjusted and they'll make up the difference once you pull enough lever to make contact. A pair of HY/RDs with rotors is dipping into 150 on eBay, and if you're at the start of your ownership on this bike, it might be justified tacking that cost on. If you're post mount and have a set of pads or your current pads would work: https://www.ebay.com/itm/TRP-HY-RD-Mechanical-Hydraulic-Post-Mount-Brake-Caliper/284088857501 e: ooh, flat mount for 133: https://www.ebay.com/itm/TRP-HY-RD-Flat-Mount-Front-Rear-160-140mm-Disc-Brake-Set-for-Road-CX-Bike/184288727397
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Nov 23, 2020 17:17
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Ah sorry I thought this was the MTB thread. I don't know anything about road disc.
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Nov 23, 2020 17:19
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HY/RD will work on MTB too, they come in post mount.
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Nov 23, 2020 19:06
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kimbo305 posted:once you pull enough lever to make contact. I bought a new bike and it has mechanical disk brakes - and I'm happy with them. The other model I test-rode at the LBS had a similar frame (same manufacturer, same series - the Norco Storm 3 vs. the Storm 5 I bought) and hydraulic disks. In my little ride around the block in traffic I noticed very little difference between them - but of course, it wasn't a big, thorough test of various braking situations. One thing I did notice on both bikes is that I need to pull the levers pretty far before any real braking action happens. I'm planning to adjust my brakes this weekend - I already turned the barrel adjusters about as far as they'll go - by just pulling the cable a little further, because I prefer a brake lever that starts to bite well before I crush my ring & pinky fingers. Can hydraulic brakes be similarly adjusted?
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Nov 24, 2020 00:43
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ExecuDork posted:braking situations. One thing I did notice on both bikes is that I need to pull the levers pretty far before any real braking action happens. I'm planning to adjust my brakes this weekend - I already turned the barrel adjusters about as far as they'll go - by just pulling the cable a little further, because I prefer a brake lever that starts to bite well before I crush my ring & pinky fingers. quote:Can hydraulic brakes be similarly adjusted?
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Nov 24, 2020 01:57
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ExecuDork posted:One thing I did notice on both bikes is that I need to pull the levers pretty far before any real braking action happens. I'm planning to adjust my brakes this weekend - I already turned the barrel adjusters about as far as they'll go - by just pulling the cable a little further, because I prefer a brake lever that starts to bite well before I crush my ring & pinky fingers. You're not supposed to use the barrel adjusters to adjust your brakes with mechanical disk; Park Tools posted:IMPORTANT: Do not use the barrel adjuster to move the pads inward as they wear. This will eventually move the lever arm to a position where it is contacting another part of the caliper, preventing the pads from contacting the rotor.The barrel adjusters should only be used to take out cable slack as the cable and housing system settle in. I suppose on brand new pads this shouldn't be too much of an issue, but if they were very out of alignment and you used the barrel adjuster to take up the space, the same problem is possible.
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Nov 24, 2020 06:37
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I used the barrel adjusters at the levers, not at the calipers (I don't even know if there are adjusters at the caliper). The bike is brand new, I've put just over 100km on it in a week, the pads aren't worn and the brakes work smoothly. It's just the amount of no-effect movement of the levers that I'm trying to change. I get a free overall-bike-maintenance at the 6-week point (so, around about christmas - it doesn't have to be on the exact day of 6 weeks, I'll see what the shop's open hours are that week) but this is a small issue I'm willing to play around with myself. kimbo305 posted:There’s more variation in adjustment between models. Many are self adjusting, where extra fluid comes from a reservoir, similar to car brakes.
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Nov 24, 2020 06:48
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ExecuDork posted:I used the barrel adjusters at the levers, not at the calipers (I don't even know if there are adjusters at the caliper). The bike is brand new, I've put just over 100km on it in a week, the pads aren't worn and the brakes work smoothly. It's just the amount of no-effect movement of the levers that I'm trying to change. Right, you shouldn't be using the adjusters to do the initial adjustment. If they're not biting quick enough, and you're closing that gap with the barrel adjusters, you're running into the potential for the problem depicted in the blog post, the arm to bottom out on the caliper before you get full brake engagement. You need to adjust the caliper itself to move the moveable pad closer to the rotor(as shown in the article) to change the amount of no-effect movement. It's technically possible to change the amount of no-effect movement by using the barrel adjuster, but you're that's partially engaging the arm. If you close a large gap with adjusters(anywhere, they have the same effect no matter what end they're mounted at), you could bottom out the arm before full engagement, leaving you with no brakes. (or weak brakes with only partial pressure). e: like, if you turn the adjusters, yes, they will begin to appear to do what you want. but it's not the safe way, because you're taking the movement out of the arm instead of actually moving the pads themselves closer. HarmB fucked around with this message at 06:56 on Nov 24, 2020 |
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Nov 24, 2020 06:53
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e.pilot posted:luke warm take: If HY/RDs fit your frame there is pretty much zero reason to not have them.
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Nov 24, 2020 14:50
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What is the lowest stack 1⅛" external headset and stem that I can find? I have a fork I really want to try on a build I'm doing, but the steerer is a smidge too short with what I have on hand.
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Nov 27, 2020 00:12
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25mm: https://www.bassobikes.com/shop-en/shop/equipment/parts/stems/stem-basso-diamanteastra-11.html 14.5mm headset: https://www.jensonusa.com/Aheadset-Zero-Stack-Headset kimbo305 fucked around with this message at 00:30 on Nov 27, 2020 |
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Nov 27, 2020 00:24
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I need EC34. It looks like my best best for low stack might be with with cheap cup & cone style headsets.
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Nov 27, 2020 00:53
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ExecuDork posted:This makes me happy I have mechanical brakes - I don't want self-adjusting, that implies the configuration is for somebody else's ideas of what my hands should be like and doing. I'm willing to accept I'm being weird about this, and that there are other big advantages to hydraulics (hence the higher price tag). Automatic pad distance adjustment won’t limit your ability to change the contact point / free stroke of your levers.
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Nov 27, 2020 07:17
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 Just replacing my bottom bracket and I realised it's about 2mm too wide for the shell. Then I remembered the last time I did this at the bike co-op, I had the same problem, but although there was a 2mm gap on the non drive side, the drive side was in far enough that it basically was ok (no play, although there's some light rust, so I suppose some water got in!) This is all a little confusing given I thought 68mm has been the smallest standard width for several decades (the bike is my 1997 Dawes Galaxy.) What's my next move, dudes?!
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Nov 27, 2020 17:30
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