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SpartanIvy posted:There's only one ground on the power supply and it's the one terminal that goes to the ground of the power cord. Everything else is V+ and V-. Ok. V- on the power supply. Which is connected to the gnd on the board, and not to fan- E: reposting this, cause I saw you quoted my last post before I edited it, and this is new page. The circuit looks correct, and this is enough for me to say that yes, those are real values.* The inversion is that instead of measuring between signal and +24v, we're now measuring between signal and ground. I don't know why you're seeing this. Can you turn the board off and measure between fan- and ground? I suppose it might be an odd mosfet failure. I suppose it might even be intentional by creality. I'll take a glance at their source. *although as it might not have been connected, there is still uncertainty, but the fact that voltages did switch like that still leaves it as plausible. Edit2: Measure the resistance between fan- and ground when it's off. Clarifying because we've been measuring voltage. Edit3: The ground of the supply may well have been connected to the ground of the board, if they've grounded the chassis, and the board to the chassis. Aurium fucked around with this message at 07:10 on Dec 5, 2020 |
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Dec 5, 2020 07:00
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Aurium posted:Ok. V- on the power supply. Which is connected to the gnd on the board, and not to fan- Thanks for all your help. I'm very tired and I'd prefer not to start disassembling my printer and poking on the board and accidently fry something so I'm going to pick this up tomorrow.
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Dec 5, 2020 07:41
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SpartanIvy posted:Thanks for all your help. I'm very tired and I'd prefer not to start disassembling my printer and poking on the board and accidently fry something so I'm going to pick this up tomorrow. You're welcome. The next thing would be resistance between fan- (that fan connector where you probed is fine) and DCV- on the power supply. This'll measure the fan mostfet. It should be open circuit. Also, as it's a mosfet, and your meter has a diode test function (sharing space on the conductivity function). So if you like you can check the body diode, I don't know your exact meter, but I'm thinking it'll beep and tell you the voltage drop if it works, it'll probably be .6v. One last idea for a test. If you have a led hanging around you can watch it as it brightens or not. A problem is that our eyes also respond on a curve, and it's much harder to tell brightness differences in bright things than dim things. But we can just make the led dim, I don't really know how well it'll work. Also, the range between 0-255 might be too broad to work on a single resistor. You might have to look at the range of 0-127 with one, and 127-255 with another. Also you'll probably need to do jumps in like 10-20 to see any difference. Anyway, just go across fan+ to fan- with a led and a 4.7k resistor in series. That should keep it pretty dim. You can go higher if it's too bright, but don't go below 600 if it's too dim. To be honest, I don't really have a good explanation for what's going on, and I don't have a reason to doubt your meter with what I've seen either, and have pretty much run out of easy tests.. I looked at creality's marlin github, and they're not doing anything obvious with fan speeds. Comedy option: You say you have 2 fans? They'll probably still run if you give them 12v. You could try running them in series. Donno if they'll give you enough cooling.
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Dec 5, 2020 08:41
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Anyone got experience of both the Ender 3 pro magnetic build plates and the textured glass plate? Pros and cons? My magnetic plate has essentially worn out so I'm using tape and glue stick over it for the moment but I want to replace it. Is the textured glass an improvement? Also I want a sample pack of transparent filaments to make light lenses for the truck I'm printing but don't want to buy 3 rolls for a total 15g of prints. Annoying.
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Dec 5, 2020 12:50
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I have poor impulse control and a liking for big, cheap printers, so I decided to roll the dice on Sovol3D's new-ish SV03. 350 x 350 x 400, ABL system, glass bed, direct drive extruder, silent driver board... some nice bells and whistles and a pretty stout build volume for $450. I've only had it for a couple of days and haven't had a chance to really run it through its paces, but the few small things I've run have come out nicely. I should have time today to tune the settings and run a "how's the quality on taller things" test or two. The BLTouch is... OK, I guess? Took quite a bit longer to get the bed and Z offset dialed in correctly than it would have if I just could have used my normal paper/eyeball method, but now that that's all done it does seem to work as advertised. On the other end of the spectrum, one of my Ender 3's had an interesting failure last night that I've never seen happen before. The entire threaded insert for the Bowden fitting on the extruder motor assembly popped right out, which thankfully only resulted in a few meters of free-range filament and no catastrophic damage. This is the only one out of my three that I hadn't put one of the upgraded metal extruder mechanisms on, so that's going to change promptly.  cakesmith handyman posted:
I have glass on all of my Enders (and all of my other printers too.) I buck the system a bit and use the smooth side with some hair spray, but the textured sides do work pretty well. My opinion is that if you're spending money to replace the print surface, it's a pretty good upgrade over the magnetic sheets.
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Dec 5, 2020 13:25
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cakesmith handyman posted:Also I want a sample pack of transparent filaments to make light lenses for the truck I'm printing but don't want to buy 3 rolls for a total 15g of prints. Annoying. Turned out to be 4g and Sharpies on TPU worked fine. At a distance.
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Dec 5, 2020 15:37
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Acid Reflux posted:I have poor impulse control and a liking for big, cheap printers, so I decided to roll the dice on Sovol3D's new-ish SV03. 350 x 350 x 400, ABL system, glass bed, direct drive extruder, silent driver board... some nice bells and whistles and a pretty stout build volume for $450. I've only had it for a couple of days and haven't had a chance to really run it through its paces, but the few small things I've run have come out nicely. I should have time today to tune the settings and run a "how's the quality on taller things" test or two. The BLTouch is... OK, I guess? Took quite a bit longer to get the bed and Z offset dialed in correctly than it would have if I just could have used my normal paper/eyeball method, but now that that's all done it does seem to work as advertised. Wow this has all the features I've been looking for in my next FDM printer and the price is pretty good, I'm surprised that it's so hard to find any reviews or anything online. I'm wondering how it compares to the newer CR-10 v3. E: Speaking of, it's annoying how Creality is so sporadic with the feature sets on their printers. It seems like every one of their models has 4 out of 5 things I'm looking for and the newer line is inexplicably missing some premium things entirely like direct drive. Anyone have a recommendation for a printer with the following features under $1000? Large print volume Direct drive and all metal hotend ABL Silent board/steppers Dual extrusion (nice to have) Mikey Purp fucked around with this message at 16:57 on Dec 5, 2020 |
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Dec 5, 2020 16:46
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cakesmith handyman posted:Anyone got experience of both the Ender 3 pro magnetic build plates and the textured glass plate? Pros and cons? My magnetic plate has essentially worn out so I'm using tape and glue stick over it for the moment but I want to replace it. Is the textured glass an improvement? All 5 of my Ender 3 machines have the Creality glass bed and it kicks rear end. I print on the textured side with no additional adhesives, I just make sure to really wipe the bed down with isopropyl and a paper towel between each print. If for some reason the print isn’t sticking, it’s always a temp/bed leveling issue and best of all, once the bed gets down to 30•c or below, the prints self release from the bed. If you’re printing PETG though, HAVE to apply blue tape to the bed otherwise you’ll pull chunks out of the glass as the PETG will rise to it!
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Dec 5, 2020 16:53
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I'm actually printing on a MakerBot right now, which is kinda funny. The Method series is pretty neat, and I was allowed to futz around with one through work. Sending in a nylon + carbon fiber print right now and it should wrap up tomorrow and get shipped out Monday or Tuesday: I'm hoping it goes well, I'd like to have one FDM machine at the makerspace with a service plan that can do some more challenging materials for things like soft jaws and high impact parts. NewFatMike fucked around with this message at 18:02 on Dec 5, 2020 |
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Dec 5, 2020 18:00
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sharkytm posted:And people protest when we say "Buy a Prusa". Saying "Buy a Prusa" to someone looking at a $2-300 printer is like if someone came into the car buying thread asking for advice on a winter beater and being told to buy a new Toyota, hth.
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Dec 5, 2020 21:28
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Elder Postsman posted:I got an amazon gift card so I ordered myself an Ender 3 Pro. It'll be here Sunday. I look forward to generating a million Barbie accessories for my kid, and also approximately 10x as many wasted prints. It arrived a day early. It was a lot easier to put together and set up than I expected. My first attempts were a CaliCat - the first one failed because filament wasn't coming out at first and about 85% of the way though it came unstuck from the baseplate. Second one worked perfectly, though.
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Dec 5, 2020 22:09
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Well, you clearly did better than me on leveling the bed, I had a ton of trouble with mine because I wasn't aggressive enough.
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Dec 5, 2020 22:20
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Acid Reflux posted:I have poor impulse control and a liking for big, cheap printers, so I decided to roll the dice on Sovol3D's new-ish SV03. 350 x 350 x 400, ABL system, glass bed, direct drive extruder, silent driver board... some nice bells and whistles and a pretty stout build volume for $450. I've been interested in a Sovol for my next printer. Please keep us posted. I saw myfordboy got one recently and did some tune ups https://youtu.be/YB88VPoieDg.
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Dec 5, 2020 22:31
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22 Eargesplitten posted:Saying "Buy a Prusa" to someone looking at a $2-300 printer is like if someone came into the car buying thread asking for advice on a winter beater and being told to buy a new Toyota, hth. Not really. For that analogy to work we'd have to be suggesting Ultimakers, Zortrax and Raise3d machines.
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Dec 5, 2020 22:57
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It's 4-5x the price, I'd say that's pretty similar in ratio if not in magnitude. I could afford an Ender 3 by stretching my budget, I would have had to wait a year to afford a Prusa.
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Dec 5, 2020 23:45
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22 Eargesplitten posted:Saying "Buy a Prusa" to someone looking at a $2-300 printer is like if someone came into the car buying thread asking for advice on a winter beater and being told to buy a new Toyota, hth. Also for people who aren’t sure yet, suggesting “go spend 700!” is not exactly ideal. An Ender 3 at 200ish is a lot more reasonable for a “not sure if this is going to be my thing” purchase. (The Prusa Mini is better on both these fronts but for me personally the smaller print bed would be pretty limiting, I semi-regularly print nearly to the extents on my E3.)
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Dec 6, 2020 00:08
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I'd suggest the Prusa Mini over the MK3S as a first printer anyway. It's a 7" cube build area instead of an 8" cube build area for the MK3S, and $400, and an absolute work horse printer. I love mine.
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Dec 6, 2020 00:58
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Agreedo, Prusa Mini whips. Having the option of Prusament for  level of printing has been great, too. All I've really had to do was Loctite the screw holding the MINDA on there.
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Dec 6, 2020 01:04
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bred posted:I've been interested in a Sovol for my next printer. Please keep us posted. I saw myfordboy got one recently and did some tune ups https://youtu.be/YB88VPoieDg. That video is one of the reasons I decided to just go for it - I figure if he's happy with it, it's probably a pretty decent machine. I'll definitely share my experience with it after I've had some time to gauge the quality. One thing I've now discovered is that the stock hot end PID numbers absolute poo poo, at least on mine. That's not a huge surprise, but I wish I'd thought to check it sooner. It's swinging a full three degrees either side of 190 with the part cooling fan set at 50%. Of course I'm two hours into a nine hour print, so I'll just let it run and fix it later. It'll be interesting to see if the temp changes are visible in the surface finish once the object is tall enough for me to tell. 
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Dec 6, 2020 16:32
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Thing I've noticed: Siraya tech smoky black resin is really, really a lot like water. Very high viscosity. All the resins I've used before, across several brands, have been kinda thick, like hobby acrylic paint, maybe thinner. This stuff is legit just... venom kool aid. Looks neat though.
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Dec 6, 2020 17:03
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Thinner fluids are low viscosity.
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Dec 6, 2020 18:23
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I currently have personal licenses for SolidWorks and Fusion 360 but I want to start doing commercial stuff. A quick Google search says Solidworks is ~$1,300 a year or $4,000 standalone for 2020. Fusion 360 is $495/year with no standalone. I was trained on SolidWorks 2013 as an undergrad and really wouldn't need all the new functionality. I originally learned Fusion 360 but then found the sweet $40/year deal for an educational license through EAA. Any attempts to find older versions of SolidWorks seem to bring up illegal methods or nothing useful. Question to you guys - Where might I find an older version of SolidWorks or what software out there is cheaper than $500/year or $4,000 standalone that has comparable features to Solidworks and Fusion 360? I do like 1 to 2 CAD models a month so this pricing is killing me. Edit: Sounds like maybe FreeCAD ? Watching some SolidWorks vs FreeCAD videos now. huhu fucked around with this message at 19:13 on Dec 6, 2020 |
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Dec 6, 2020 19:09
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You can't use old versions (i.e one year out of date) of Solidworks. Dassault doesn't support them, the files are not backwards compatible, and an old license is non-transferable. Like if you already have a standalone license you're welcome to continue using it, but the first time you get a file from someone with a newer version you'll be screwed, and Dassault's response when a Windows update breaks the program will be "lmao sux" Unfortunately if you are trying to make money with CAD software the companies are just going to gouge you. Two models a month sounds to me like Fusion 360 startup license; I think there's still an option there for people making less than some amount of money per year. If you need more power than that offers, well, decide whether you want to spend the money or risk it with an "unauthorized trial." And if you're actually making tens of thousands with the work, suck it up and buy the software. It's a business expense. https://www.autodesk.com/products/fusion-360/startups The best deal in CAD software by far is the Rhino educational license ($150 for a full commercial non-expiring license through the end of the major version), but you have to be at least marginally associated with a school to get that. Sagebrush fucked around with this message at 19:45 on Dec 6, 2020 |
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Dec 6, 2020 19:41
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Don’t take this is gospel but I vaguely remember someone telling me that solidworks deliberately make it difficult to open/save to/use files from previous versions. So you can use an old version no problem as long as you don’t want to send the file to anyone else, a manufacturer or client for example. Again, not 100% but worth checking out before you drop a sizeable chunk of cash. You might qualify for the fusion startup licence.
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Dec 6, 2020 19:45
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Solidworks has no forwards compatibility. You cannot open a SW2021 file you just received in your copy of SW2019. You can do the reverse, and open old files in the newer versions of the software, but saving the file will convert it to the latest version so you can't send it back. There is no way to save to a previous file version. In a pinch you can export your file to STEP or IGES and re-import that into any version of Solidworks, but you'll lose all of the history and parametric aspects. It will just be the raw surface geometry. That's far from ideal. There are some valid arguments for why you can't make a universal file format; for instance, if SW2021 changed the logic of the fillet tool, then when you rebuild the file in SW2019 you might not get the same results. However, there is no good reason they can't just do what Adobe does and give you the option to save backwards with a warning that some data might be lost or features might not work. It's just being hostile to the users.
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Dec 6, 2020 19:54
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Either I'm having a bad day Googling or no one has actually used the Fusion 360 startup license and given a review of it. Would really like to know what "be willing to share their story with the Fusion 360 community" means. https://www.autodesk.com/products/fusion-360/startups
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Dec 6, 2020 19:59
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huhu posted:Either I'm having a bad day Googling or no one has actually used the Fusion 360 startup license and given a review of it. Would really like to know what "be willing to share their story with the Fusion 360 community" means. https://www.autodesk.com/products/fusion-360/startups Well, I filled out the form and some days later they gave me the license. That's my review
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Dec 6, 2020 21:16
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Another solution off the normal beaten path is Alibre: https://www.alibre.com/ Mostly SW style design language, much more affordable license. Not as slick, but definitely usable.
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Dec 6, 2020 21:31
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huhu posted:Either I'm having a bad day Googling or no one has actually used the Fusion 360 startup license and given a review of it. Would really like to know what "be willing to share their story with the Fusion 360 community" means. https://www.autodesk.com/products/fusion-360/startups I've had a Fusion 360 commercial license and the entire experience loving sucked. They changed the pricing scheme halfway through my term and asking if my access was changed was met with shrugs. OP might want to check to see if they qualify for the SOLIDWORKS startup program: https://www.solidworks.com/solution/organization-type/entrepreneurs-startups From the VAR side, it's December and sales want to make their numbers now much more than any time (especially since it's 2020). OP might be able to get some good financing terms or discounts.
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Dec 7, 2020 01:27
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Has anybody used Priline ASA? I tried some because it was on Amazon, and holy gently caress me I cannot get it to stick. Textured PEI, smooth PEI, 80C bed, 100C bed, Nano-Tech polymer, WolfBite ABS glue, PET tape, Kapton tape, glue stick, big squish, right squish, no squish, .1mm first layer, .3mm first layer. All of it, the stuff just either immediately peels itself off (like, by perimeter #2 on the first layer), or 5 perimeters up it was already peeling off wholesale. This happened with my open-frame printers and my fully-enclosed industrial printer. It behaved like polypropelyne, but definitely smelled like ABS or ASA.
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Dec 7, 2020 04:29
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I finally got the first layer calibration better laid in. However, during calibration, I got it too low and now I think there is a very thin layer of filament stuck to the plate. Rubbing it with my 70% IPA wipes aren't getting it off, neither is my metal spatula. Scraping it with my nail worked somewhat. Any other ideas on how to get this layer off? It's PLA on the untextured sheet for the Prusa Mini.
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Dec 7, 2020 06:53
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insta posted:Has anybody used Priline ASA? I tried some because it was on Amazon, and holy gently caress me I cannot get it to stick. I've used Prusament ASA and it stuck to the smooth PEI plate without issues in an open environment. Maybe it's just lovely filament?
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Dec 7, 2020 12:07
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Likely. I got some Push Plastic ASA and it's working, and I've used Polymaker ASA in the past interchangeably with ABS. Guess i need to return this stuff.
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Dec 7, 2020 15:11
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biracial bear for uncut posted:I've used Prusament ASA and it stuck to the smooth PEI plate without issues in an open environment. Yeah, I've got a partial shelter for my Prusament ASA and I only had issues when it got waterlogged.
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Dec 7, 2020 15:20
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Youtube's algorithms pointed me to this video where the Cyanide and Happiness peeps used a Prusa MK2 in a skit. https://www.youtube.com/watch?v=XMpSbDOreuA EDIT: Also looks like they may have been using OpenSCAD to create their model, given all the typing required.
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Dec 7, 2020 19:45
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Another first Z-level check, this is my best one yet. Any recommendations on further changes? 
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Dec 8, 2020 05:22
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I seriously can't get over how amazing my lithophane prints have been coming out - they're fuckin' beautiful and after seeing prints for the xmas gift I'm making my mom my wife (who had kind of written off the whole project as madness) immediately wanted me to make a set for both of her parents as well. Siraya Fast White resin, with lithophane settings from 3dp.rocks at 3mm thickness, .6mm thinnest layer, with the Elegoo Mars set for .025mm layer height, 6s per non-base layer and a sloooooow lift rate, printed with the images vertical on the build plate to take advantage of that nice z-level resolution. They look like actual B&W photos when backlit, it's really incredible. test action shot print:  e: i literally think my phone's lovely camera is doing me a huge disservice here because in person that image is incredibly crisp and good Rockman Reserve fucked around with this message at 05:48 on Dec 8, 2020 |
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Dec 8, 2020 05:33
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 After a few failed attempts this 32 hour print for the largest piece of the spyker kat 2x snowblower has finally completed. CR-10S, supervolcano, 1.4mm nozzle. It started near the end of one spool and finished at the end of a second.
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Dec 8, 2020 05:36
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I'm finally finishing the last season of Mr Robot after running through the entire series from the beginning to refresh myself on it. I just got to the 3D printed fingerprint bit and it still cracks me up. I mean, in theory it might work, depending on the reader, but the theory bit is so large that it's just comical. In other news, I'm trying out a textured glass plate from "HAWKUNG". Gets decent reviews, picked it up through Vine. I think the middle might be a tiny bit low, as the corners seem to stick a little better, but it's good enough for a bigger test print. Bottom surface finish on prints is a silky matte that I think I might like better than the shiny finish you get from glass. When things stick well, they really stick well, but pop off pretty easily overall. I'll keep at it and update if it starts to suck for some reason. I'll be happy to stop spraying AquaNet periodically if it works out well, though.
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Dec 8, 2020 20:35
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What's everyone's thoughts about heated beds and PLA? I've been using standard settings in cura at 60° bed temp but over long prints I'm getting the bottom of the print pulling up and I wondered whether gradually cooling the bed down as the print gets taller might prevent that, give it 20mm or so at 60 them cool down to ambient over the next 20mm or so. Or maybe I just need to replace this bed and stop using tape.
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Dec 9, 2020 10:02
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