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the spyder posted:
Would the surprise be that it's not a rotary? "The Corolla going to Rob's" makes me muse that maybe my AE86 could benefit from a rotary... Nope, nope - I need to sell that thing and concentrate on the SA22C.
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Oct 12, 2020 20:45
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Darchangel posted:Would the surprise be that it's not a rotary? Yep, can see the LS intake poking out of the hood 
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Oct 12, 2020 23:32
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A truck manifold at that. Iirc, the car manifolds fit without goin choppy choppy on the hood.
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Oct 13, 2020 09:13
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It's not much of a surprise. We decided early on we wanted something that was easily sourced at a junk yard - 5.3's are super common up and down the west coast at any of the tracks we race at. It's backed by a CD009 6spd trans, again - easy to find. Nothing's worse than not racing because the local rotary guy isn't answering his phone or CL flakes.
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Oct 13, 2020 17:35
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Which swap kit did you end up using? V8Roadster, CXRacing? I've been eyeing up their swap support ancillaries to supplement the chassis on mine and was wondering if anyone had used them. Nice to see more people putting the chassis and it's ridiculous stock body fender wells to good use. 295 wide square?
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Oct 13, 2020 20:07
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And what trans adapter/flywheel? I've not really researched LS swap transmissions, but that's not one I've heard of. How pricey are the transmissions compared to the "normal" T56? I assume that the trans price/availability makes the cost of the adapter palatable. Applebees Appetizer posted:Yep, can see the LS intake poking out of the hood Yeah, that's what I was seeing, just didn't want to spill the beans too early.
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Oct 13, 2020 22:20
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CD0009s run from $500 to $1000 used and are easy to find, along with being pretty stout.
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Oct 13, 2020 23:10
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the spyder posted:It's not much of a surprise. We decided early on we wanted something that was easily sourced at a junk yard - 5.3's are super common up and down the west coast at any of the tracks we race at. It's backed by a CD009 6spd trans, again - easy to find. Nothing's worse than not racing because the local rotary guy isn't answering his phone or CL flakes. How are you not the local rotary guy?
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Oct 14, 2020 00:35
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everdave posted:How are you not the local rotary guy? Right? Issue is I'm unable to attend more than 2-3 out of the 8 races in the series a year and they are from Laguna Seca in Cali to The Ridge in NW WA. When you're driving 3+ hours to grab parts, you loose half a day. And if you're lucky, the parts are good. Rotaries are owned by characters, characters who don't always sell good parts... A big plus is that we don't have to carry a full truck of spares along with the trailer/car. Anyways, LS was just more feasible for the team and I understand that not every parts store or wrecking yard will have what we need.
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Oct 14, 2020 01:02
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Darchangel posted:And what trans adapter/flywheel? We paid $700 locally for a 09+ with the triple synchros. I'll grab the kit info - Swiss cheese brain today.
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Oct 14, 2020 01:41
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What engine does your tow vehicle have? We watched a team toss the engine from their tow vehicle into their race car, race all day then swap it back and drive home after they blew their engine. Was pretty drat impressive and brave.
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Oct 14, 2020 11:58
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the spyder posted:We paid $700 locally for a 09+ with the triple synchros. According to what I've found, the CD009 was Z33 '05-'06. Later Zs used a different bolt pattern and clutch cylinder? Earlier ones (CD008, etc.) fit the same, but synchros aren't as good. If you used the G-Force adapter, it's almost $1000.
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Oct 14, 2020 19:26
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Supposedly the 09 is very popular with drift guys who hammer them all day with 600-800hp and rarely have issues.
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Oct 15, 2020 02:26
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I had a few minutes tonight to toss the 20b back in my black FD. I had promised the subframe maker I would try test fitting stock (stock trans location) mounting with his subframe. Short answer: It will not work. Oil pickup sits dead nuts center where the steering rack would be. Good news: If you look back at my custom oil pan fit-up, you can now see why I went to all that work. The stock trans location would cause an entire rotor to overhang the steering rack. The hood won't close with the strut bar installed, and nothing would "fit" well. This is what the common kits out there today currently do. I guess it validated all my hard work. Enjoy the random photos I took for him.                             Also Happy Halloween!
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Nov 1, 2020 04:34
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Well, my e46 daily has been sacraficed to the car gods. Short answer night+fog+road detour+diesel truck=totalled BMW. I paid $800 for this wagon and put maybe $2k into it over 6 years and 60k miles. Other than the seating position not working for a shoulder injury I have, it's been a reliable and fun to drive car. Would recommend. 8/10. So, I no longer had an excuse to not finish the "free" 2008 Forester a car friend gave me. $1400 later... it's alive! Full head job, timing belt, and all the trimmings+450 for a Subaru dealer tech I know in the car world to slap the cams/heads/intake back on (yea I'm not happy with that price either...). Today we tossed the AISIN timing kit on and slapped it back in the car. For how much I hate Subaru's they can be darn easy to work on.     Not sure what's next- work's going to kick my rear end the next few months. the spyder fucked around with this message at 07:51 on Nov 30, 2020 |
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Nov 30, 2020 07:49
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Subaru has been solid so far. There's some exhaust rattle I'll have to track down at some point when the lift is empty. Random pictures:     Now that brings us to today's topic: Will I ever actually have a 20B in FD? A few weeks back my machinist had some free time and had me drop the pans off with him for some additional work I've deemed necessary while using the off the shelf sub frame. Here were the results of the first attempt:     It still hit, so back they went. He had a unusually quick turn around and brought them back just a day later. Tonight I had a few hours free and decided to see what I could get done. The result is... another update to the drawing is needed. What I'm fighting here is drive shaft angle, shifter placement, and tunnel clearance. Just a 1/4" or 1/8" here or there makes a big difference. But instead of waiting, I tossed it on our Lagun mill. I don't want to keep taking things back/forth/waiting. With this done, I was able to modify the subframe and install motor mounts. I am really happy with where I'm at. After 5 years, what feels like 12 revisions, and literally tens of thousands of dollars later.... I finally have a 20B, in a FD, behind the steering rack with no body cutting, that fits under the stock strut brace, uses stock FD accessories like Power Steering and A/C, and still can use a stock swaybar. I still need to work on the trans/diff mounts - but this is a great place to be. Over the next couple of weeks I'll knock those out and take this pan in for the aluminum sheet work. Maybe this spring I'll be able to get it running...               Now the cool thing is, this oil pan can now be turned into a kit. We have 12 being prepared, ready to sell. No idea what for yet. I'm hoping there's a positive response (read:sales) in the community. This will also allow for repeatable items like turbo manifolds, intercooler kits, etc to be made for this kit - making a 20B swap more "off the shelf".
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Dec 8, 2020 07:30
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 What's up with that wavy looking trans bracket?
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Dec 8, 2020 12:47
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It's a factory chassis brace, designed to allow the exhaust to clear. I'll have to remake it and incorporate a mount.
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Dec 8, 2020 19:14
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Are you sending that mini-ductor to me? I don't see any rust in any of your other pictures, so it can't be very useful to you.
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Dec 8, 2020 21:18
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Goddamn that's cool.
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Dec 8, 2020 22:52
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Every time I convince myself that no, I do not need to swap a 20B into my car, a 13B-REW will suffice, you go and post updates!  That looks amazing and from above, absolutely factory. Fantastic. Have any of the goodies for the 911 engine swap arrived yet?
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Dec 8, 2020 23:09
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McTinkerson posted:Every time I convince myself that no, I do not need to swap a 20B into my car, a 13B-REW will suffice, you go and post updates! ...then the part about "10s of thousands of dollars" registers.
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Dec 8, 2020 23:56
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I'm going to make a video about the mini ductor. This thing is 100% amazing and there needs to be a $200 copy made. Porsche - Waiting on parts from Subaru Gears - shipping from Aus. I need to take a spending hiatus. No matter what during the holidays I always end up spending too much on gifts or BF sales. Once January comes around I'll have a better idea on my finances and where I want to put money. The 20B needs ~ $6k to theoretically run. The Porsche needs more like $16k. This leads me to the dilemma - do I sell the 240z to pay for the Porsche. I like the Z, but it needs $10k in restoration (floor boards, seals, suspension, RB25...) and I'd rather drive the Porsche now.
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Dec 9, 2020 00:09
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McTinkerson posted:Every time I convince myself that no, I do not need to swap a 20B into my car, a 13B-REW will suffice, you go and post updates! So the funny thing is I have a local guy I've known forever wanting me to 20b swap his Rx-8. Well see if he wants to pony up for it.
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Dec 9, 2020 00:10
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Guaranteed he backs out after hearing the price tag.
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Dec 9, 2020 13:57
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the spyder posted:So the funny thing is I have a local guy I've known forever wanting me to 20b swap his Rx-8. Well see if he wants to pony up for it. Might as well find a FD shell too, kind of a waste on an RX8 imo An FD with a 20b would be worth a shitload more than an RX8 with one
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Dec 9, 2020 14:45
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It wouldn't be the most expensive part of the swap.
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Dec 9, 2020 15:41
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Yeah I know that's what I mean, might as well get an FD but to each his own
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Dec 9, 2020 16:25
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Rx8's kind of a better chassis though.
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Dec 9, 2020 16:30
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Who cares tho, the FD is probably one of the best looking cars ever, the RX8 is a turd in comparison. But I don't know the FD market well enough, must be even shells and non running cars are getting ridiculous
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Dec 9, 2020 20:52
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I mean, depends on what you're going for? I don't fit well in FDs but do fit in an 8. Also I did recently see a gutted FD shell going for 7k, not sure what one with actual parts goes for nowadays.
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Dec 9, 2020 22:47
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I sold one of mine for $10k. The other (branded title, missing lots) for $6500. Cleaning house felt great.
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Dec 10, 2020 02:32
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mekilljoydammit posted:I mean, depends on what you're going for? I don't fit well in FDs but do fit in an 8. Also I did recently see a gutted FD shell going for 7k, not sure what one with actual parts goes for nowadays. Same. I barely fit in FDs, definitely don't with a helmet, without either switching to a Kirkey-style seat, or leaning way back, which is sub-optimal. FC is a bit better, and, surprisingly, SA/FB is about the same fit as the FC, though I could stand for the seat going back a bit more, and lower on my sunroof car. RX-8 is fine, because sedan. I'm going to try Fiero seat in my SA. They practically sit on the floor, and have thin backs to maximize space in the Fiero cabin, and I have a friend who has a pile of them. There are aftermarket seat covers that aren't too spendy.
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Dec 11, 2020 00:43
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I am not a huge dude, but I have had to make a drop floor to fit into a fc with a cage. The rx8 has a ton more headroom.
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Dec 11, 2020 02:08
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I'm a bit of a weirdo and prefer the RX-8's looks to the FD. Like yes, to most people the FD looks better but I love the doofy grinning face of the later RX-8s. And the tail lights on the series 1 are choice. 
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Dec 11, 2020 03:35
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Tonight I bolted up the electric water pump conversion/alt mount. I did not research the billet boss water pump/electric water pump mount well enough before purchasing and forgot it was designed for the 13B/20B front cover that uses a CAS and pulley stack. The FD front cover puts the alternator about 30mm short of alignment. I'll have to do some machining and fab a new tension mount- but it's still usable. On the up side, this gives me more clearance for the 20AN water lines.    BRB, out of tissue.
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Dec 11, 2020 06:25
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Everything else be damned, that thing is going to make some seriously cool noises.
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Dec 11, 2020 06:27
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I hit another "why did I do this" moment in the 20b project when I realized a series of screwups. Nothing significant - just the damage to my wallet. First with the engine mounted, I realized I had to toss out any hope of running a v-mount. Honestly, I'm good with this. Living in the PNW makes running a vented hood not desirable - I like to drive my FD's in rain and shine. A front mount large enough for this turbo won't fit under the bumper skin I'd like to use. So, Air2water it is. This leads me to the second issue. A2W introduces another radiator and I plan on keeping ac... This makes the cooling stack over 8" thick including the SPAL fans. I had originally planned on tilting these back towards the engine, but it quickly eats up every inch of the "mouth" of the bumper with end-tanks blocking the airflow. This was solved by sandwiching the stack upright as seen in the pictures above. Good news is, everything fits under the hood and above the toe hooks (lowest front end point). Bad news is, I now have to fit the A2W core between the fans and front of the engine... There's room - but barely enough to be comfortable. So, on to issue three...Knowing the above, I bought a A2W core - before I final fit everything. Now I'm going 50/50 here - I ordered a Bell Core, and their site sucks. I mis selected the dimensions and now my intercooler is wider than needed and shorter than expected. Oddly enough this fits - but I would have to hand fab end tanks, which is an option. The main issue is I might have a 1/4" clearance between it and the front of the engine. Changing a belt would require removing the A2W core. Soooo I'm just going to bite the bullet and order the correct $400 core. Darn it. The good news, I can use cheap cast end tanks - but I'm not sold on that yet. Now on to the expensive part. I don't mind eating a $300 core, it will be used on another project. But I never expected the intercooler piping to cost $1100... After looking at the A2W core/end tank placement- I decided I could turn the turbo slightly towards center of the car due to the v-band exhaust housing, allowing the 9" long air filter to clear the radiator cap. Now this changed the compressor outlet from a 90/90 into the core, into a complex shape accomplished only through the use of pie cuts. I hate aluminum pie cuts and yes- I fully admit this is preference and could be done cheaper. I looked up what Ti pi cuts will cost. $600. Ouch. That I was ok with, it included several lengths of tube/45/90 and filler rod. But what killed me was the Ti ferrels for my LPS coopers. $500! For 4 pieces of Ti. He does not offer a stainless option, so it is what it is at this point. On the up side, Ti! Coming soon in a future post, cutting up the cold side of a $3500 turbo. Oh and another new tool. Can you guess what it is? Oh and today's projects. Not pictured - pre-purchase inspection on a 93 touring. I finally cleaned up my "detailing" gear - which has been a sore spot. It's been a mess for years and even worse, would trap leaves under it. A cheap wire rack fixed that. Oh and I got a compressed air dryer for the shop. Need to put it upstairs.    More on this motor soon - picked it up today and dropped it off at Robs. Fresh build by someone else- but the shop had to pull it after the crank wouldn't stop wobbling...  And I quickly re-ground some rotors for a buddy on Rob's flywheel grinder. Man I love this thing.   
the spyder fucked around with this message at 06:34 on Dec 13, 2020 |
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Dec 13, 2020 05:49
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Maybe soothe your Ti wallet pains with how nice Adam LZ’s pie cut Ti piping looks. https://youtu.be/rTpAJtV_M0Y
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Dec 13, 2020 07:58
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Adam LZ is a worthless sack of poo poo. Spyder I love shop cleanup posts Edited because I used a bad word! Sorry! Rhyno fucked around with this message at 14:35 on Dec 13, 2020 |
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Dec 13, 2020 13:06
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