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Colostomy Bag posted:Changed the oil on two of the fleet.  Also changed the oil in a couple of our vehicles today, a 94 Toyota Prado and a 1984 Mitsubishi Pajero. The Prado, being mid-90s Toyota, is easy, comfortable, calm. The old-rear end Mitsubishi was annoying. On the plus side, we can see that the Mitsubishi wishes you would see it as a grower, if not a show-er. I just LOVE to remove intake tubing to do routine maintenance.  A bunch more work to do on it, but changing the oil when they get here is always a nice thing I feel. Especially because I'm not exactly sure when the last time this thing has had its oil changed. Some old guy's truck who was at least 70 in 2011, if not older. Wonder if he died and that's why it went to auction  Next: Radiator, wheels and tires! 
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Nov 30, 2020 06:06
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KakerMix posted:Some old guy's truck who was at least 70 in 2011, if not older. Wonder if he died and that's why it went to auction There's been some pressure here in recent years for senior citizens to return their licenses, so it's equally likely he just stopped driving and nobody wanted the "old" car, if that makes you feel any better.
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Nov 30, 2020 10:17
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KakerMix posted:On the plus side, we can see that the Mitsubishi wishes you would see it as a grower, if not a show-er. I just LOVE to remove intake tubing to do routine maintenance. Ooof. That'd have me putting together a filter relocation kit.
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Nov 30, 2020 16:42
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So I reassembled the S10 with the upgraded MPFI Spider and new rotor and cap. Seems to run smoother now, but even with closed loop it won't go down below 1000rpm, and annoyingly the flashing check engine light still comes on with light acceleration (but not when revving at a stand still in neutral). Looking at the trims it looks like I have a vacuum leak in one bank (1) as the long term fuel trim sits at 12-14% and goes down for a short moment when revving at 2000rpm (to about 4-6% before going up again). Still only getting a P0300 (that the app has to look "deeper" for and isn't confirmed...). This is loving annoying. MrOnBicycle fucked around with this message at 18:14 on Nov 30, 2020 |
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Nov 30, 2020 18:10
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MrOnBicycle posted:So I reassembled the S10 with the upgraded MPFI Spider and new rotor and cap. Seems to run smoother now, but even with closed loop it won't go down below 1000rpm, and annoyingly the flashing check engine light still comes on with light acceleration (but not when revving at a stand still in neutral). Don't bother looking at long term during a transient like that. It's pretty meaningless. Shore up the leaks and then I assume there's some adjustments you can make if the trims aren't near 0?
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Dec 1, 2020 02:42
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RillAkBea posted:There's been some pressure here in recent years for senior citizens to return their licenses, so it's equally likely he just stopped driving and nobody wanted the "old" car, if that makes you feel any better. A little I suppose, but it is VERY clear the guy (or lady!) loved this Pajero. It has had seat covers and plastic covering the door cards since new. If the person was convinced to give up something they loved then that's a whole different kind of sad. Today I:  
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Dec 1, 2020 03:19
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Suburban Dad posted:Don't bother looking at long term during a transient like that. It's pretty meaningless. Shore up the leaks and then I assume there's some adjustments you can make if the trims aren't near 0? Oh ok. I read some fuel trim guide that if the long term adjusts down momentarily when reving, it was a sign of vacuum leak. I'm going to check if I can find any leaks today. I tried a smoke test before I swapped everything, but didn't find anything. I now saw a vacuum hose with a bolt in the end of it that I haven't seen before so who knows what lurks... What kind of adjustments are you refering to? MrOnBicycle fucked around with this message at 11:11 on Dec 1, 2020 |
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Dec 1, 2020 10:51
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I'm more familiar with the oem systems but if that's in the documentation of the aftermarket one then trust that. Generally look at them during steady state since they move around a lot otherwise. Given that you're off by 10-15% it's probably safe to assume there's a leak. Assuming it's set up correctly for your injectors and displacement, etc.
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Dec 1, 2020 13:43
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Suburban Dad posted:I'm more familiar with the oem systems but if that's in the documentation of the aftermarket one then trust that. Generally look at them during steady state since they move around a lot otherwise. Given that you're off by 10-15% it's probably safe to assume there's a leak. Assuming it's set up correctly for your injectors and displacement, etc. Oh no it's just some random "how to interperet fuel trims" stuff I found online. However though, I just learned a valuable lesson - don't assume stuff. I am currently changing the spark plugs to OEM AC Delco ones that I am checking the gapping on as I go (all are pretty much 0.060, which is correct for my engine) and while the ones in the car are AC delco, they are a bit tight in the gap.... but even more important.. the drat number 5 lead wasn't even on the drat plug............ I've been putting off checking the spark plugs since the dude told me he swapped them and I've been too lazy to get the car up on stands and pulling the wheel off etc. Now to change the number 3 spark plug... what was GM thinking there.... Edit: Ok seems like it's running well now based on the short ride I did. The high idle was just the throttle cables having some residual tension from mounting it. No more flashing engine light and seems like there is no more flat spot when accelerating. Success I guess! Also the #3 spark plug wsan't nearly as bad as people sad (which also made me put it all off). Yes you have to undo the steering rack, but it's 1 bolt and slides out easily (bit harder to get back on though). Might still be some vacuum leaks and stuff, but at least it runs well now and I can use it. Finally. MrOnBicycle fucked around with this message at 15:30 on Dec 1, 2020 |
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Dec 1, 2020 14:18
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I ordered these a few days before Thanksgiving: Hood bumpers specced for Nissan stuff, but fit a fair number of models, including our Kia, of all things. See, I modified my RX-7 many years ago to use adjustable hood bump stops from a n E30 BMW, after discovering, while perusing wrecking yards, that a lot of European cars used hood bumpers that adjusted by just screwing the rubber bit in and out, rather than like my Olds that used a rubber bush on top of a threaded steel stud. The RX-7 just had pop-in nubbers from the factory. I enlarged the hole a bit, and cut a slit to allow the threads on the BMW bumpers to screw in:  I bought the Z-Spec silicone ones after verifying that the ones in our Kia were the same size as the BMW ones, by the simple expedient of screwing one of them into the RX-7. They didn't cost any more than aftermarket rubber BMW bumpers, and way less than OEM E30 bumpers. Plus: red! Now, I tested the Kia one on the passenger side. The Z-spec bumper threaded right in:  Driver's side, as you may note from the first picture, was a little... misshapen. I carefully opened that up with a grinding bit on my Dremel (my paint!), and also carefully adjusted the sheet metal near the slit to make the screw work better:  then daubed a little zinc paint on to the raw metal, and down in the hole where there was a little rust (it's a mostly blind hole, apparently):  Screwed all the way in (bottoming out in the hole, but not out of threads) they were a little tall:  So off came a chunk at the bottom:  And then, because they're still a little tall, an extra half-turn of threads:    Better:  So now the hood is setting there, at least. Unfortunately, it rested on the pain on one side near the front before I notice, and chipped it, so I'll need to retouch that when I paint the hood hinges, and whatever else needs painting. I put a few layers of blue tape there to keep it from getting worse, and will probably put some blue tape on the rear edge of the hood to keep it from chipping the cowl.
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Dec 1, 2020 19:51
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'ruined' the Miata today, again    https://www.youtube.com/watch?v=BYE3gSErwV4 Electric power steering out of a Saturn Vue. Has a potentiometer to adjust assist, costs maybe 10lb. BlackMK4 fucked around with this message at 01:35 on Dec 4, 2020 |
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Dec 4, 2020 01:08
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Wow, that's really neat. Is it a big improvement over the hydraulic assist or just different (barring the adjustment capability)?
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Dec 4, 2020 03:11
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Decided to try and see what the Amish in my area know that I don’t, and tried to shoe my ‘02 Civic Si. Hoof is leaky, 0/10 would not recommend 
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Dec 4, 2020 13:35
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Panty Saluter posted:Wow, that's really neat. Is it a big improvement over the hydraulic assist or just different (barring the adjustment capability)? The car has a depowered rack in it, so I went this way due to packaging and adjustment. We'll see how it does this weekend.
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Dec 4, 2020 17:17
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Panty Saluter posted:Wow, that's really neat. Is it a big improvement over the hydraulic assist or just different (barring the adjustment capability)? also: if you track a car, the constant high rpm will shred power steering pumps.
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Dec 4, 2020 19:39
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BlackMK4 posted:'ruined' the Miata today, again Is that a kit? If so, where and how much, if you don't mind me asking? I don't have a Miata, but I have several first-gen RX-7s with no PS that could use that, possibly, or even my '70 Cutlass, to get rid of the hydraulics, so mainly interested in the power unit and controller. edit: was able to *juuust* read the URL on the instruction sheet: https://epowersteering.com/ Hoo, boy, Miata kit is $$. Universal kit is $520, though, or $560 for a "straight" kit that has a bit of straight column with it. Not terrible. That's going in my car parts file. edit again: also good for EV conversions. Darchangel fucked around with this message at 21:46 on Dec 4, 2020 |
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Dec 4, 2020 21:38
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You got it. The Miata kit is more expensive because they modify the original steering column, so a $150 core charge is included in the price. If you are willing to piece things together I think you can do this stupid cheap with like a FRS / Prius / etc column and some kind of CAN shield for an arduino or something. I just wanted to press the easy button since there was one.
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Dec 4, 2020 22:00
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You guys never fail to impress me that poo poo is cool as balls. Does that pot have a "safety" or could you adjust while in motion?
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Dec 4, 2020 22:52
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There is no safety, but it takes a few seconds before changing the assist level. I might need to figure out how to drop the minimum assist level, we will see.
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Dec 5, 2020 02:25
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I havent posted here in forever, but I decided to sell my BRZ to carvana and have spent the last few weeks on and off swapping everything back to stock. Don't ask why I decided to do this so late in the season, its sub 40 degrees this week and I am still on my back under the car loving with trying to get a stock exhaust reinstalled. I finally got it back on the road today, everything is running good except its got a CEL for a bad front O2 sensor, P0031. It is in limp mode due to that I believe, it wont rev over 4k. I must have damaged the sensor removing it from the header and reinstalling it. Should be able to get one from a dealer tomorrow - then I need to remove all the vinyl from the car and wash it. Then hopefully collect my silicon valley IPO bucks...the prices they are offering on used 86 cars in the midwest is pretty bananas. If anyone is near detroit and wants some aftermarket parts, hit me up. Ive got a lot of stuff.   
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Dec 5, 2020 03:01
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Any plans to buy something else once you complete the sale?
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Dec 5, 2020 05:56
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tangy yet delightful posted:Any plans to buy something else once you complete the sale? Good question. Car prices are pretty nuts right now, it seems like it is a sellers market. I will probably drive my pickup over winter and figure something out in spring. I'm leaning towards an s2k but I have some other silly ideas too.
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Dec 5, 2020 07:19
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PaintVagrant posted:Then hopefully collect my silicon valley IPO bucks...the prices they are offering on used 86 cars in the midwest is pretty bananas.
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Dec 5, 2020 16:13
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DrChu posted:I think it’s everywhere, not just Midwest. I live in Philly and just did a quote and the offer was almost $1500 more than I paid for mine about two years ago (because of a +2800 local market adjustment). I’d be a little tempted to sell too, but it’s my only car and I don’t really want to deal with car shopping in this environment. Yeah same, I will be making around 2.5k over what I paid for it a year ago, plus parting out all the mods it came with (and all the stuff I bought since then). It was too hard to walk away from, I was thinking about moving to another platform anyways and not paying car insurance on it over winter will be nice too - it would have just sat in the garage.
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Dec 5, 2020 16:51
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PaintVagrant posted:Yeah same, I will be making around 2.5k over what I paid for it a year ago, plus parting out all the mods it came with (and all the stuff I bought since then). It was too hard to walk away from, I was thinking about moving to another platform anyways and not paying car insurance on it over winter will be nice too - it would have just sat in the garage. Jeez, that's incredible. I've considered getting rid of my 335is but I am deep into sunk cost fallacy. 
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Dec 5, 2020 17:34
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Not so much my ride as my father in law's. He has a 2004 TSX with 50k miles on it. He mentioned that he was considering getting a different car as the paint was going bad on his. I went out to check it out and it did look pretty neglected but there was nothing wrong with the paint. I went over a week later with some soap, a clay bar, and my RO polisher to see if I could breath some life into it. Not my best work but an improvement from what was there (and it was 35*F outside).   
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Dec 9, 2020 03:23
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drat good job. I bet that felt satisfying as hell.
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Dec 9, 2020 03:48
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I'll call you my son if you come polish my car, too.
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Dec 9, 2020 03:52
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Looks pretty drat good. Next time he gets drunk he'll be saying "well I guess he's good for something"
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Dec 9, 2020 12:32
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Suburban Dad posted:I'll call you my son if you come polish my car, too. I'll even feed you once or twice!
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Dec 11, 2020 00:34
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New rear motor mount, and install AGM battery in my FoST (FIL is visiting, and he has the appropriate cable and laptop/Forscan to reset the BMS). Easy day yeah? Motor mount wasn't...too bad. The most inaccessible bolt, which would require a deep socket which there wasn't access for, and so had to be broken loose with a wrench, was very stuck. Liberal application of Kroli and backwards open end wrenches putting way too much torque on my Gearwrench (because the closed end of the Craftsman felt like it would strip) finally got it. All done.   Alright, let's pop the old battery out. I'm also upgrading from the 96r to a larger group 48 which is what comes stock in the RS and Focus models with auto start/stop. My stock battery is kind of an oddball size, and I wanted to go AGM. For less than the price of an AGM 96r which would be back ordered, I picked up an AGM group 48 locally and ordered OEM battery box top covers and a hold down strap. Per my research, that's the parts that differ. They haven't come in yet, thanks Covid, but I need to get things installed so I can reset the BMS while FIL is here.  Cool, cool. Actually the strap looks like it fits, but from googling most people go with 94r battery for, reasons, I don't know. Some corrosion there, I knew the old battery had boiled at some point (probably due to the BMS not being reset  ), that's why I wanted to go AGM.Fack  EW  Cleaned everything up, got the removable parts painted and hanging overnight. Neutralized everything in the engine bay and rinsed and dried, will spray a bit of paint on the lower part of the battery box mount, and install some new split loom. Noted that the rinse water was dripping down over the rear motor mount, that explains the tough to remove bolts I think. Steel bolts threaded into aluminum love to be coated in battery acid, right? Well, there's always tomorrow. 
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Dec 13, 2020 02:09
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angryrobots posted:Fack (not pictured, obviously, but yeah) Lifting that battery out of there wasn't fun either.
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Dec 13, 2020 02:25
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If you remove the airbox, that end of the battery box will lay almost flat when you unclip it, and makes access a lot easier. I'll take a picture of the bigger battery going in.
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Dec 13, 2020 02:38
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Yeah, I removed the top of the airbox and opened it enough to get out - I guess it would have been a lot easier if I'd gone further and been able to slide it more forward. Good tip, thank you! (Still hoping to not touch it anytime soon.)
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Dec 13, 2020 02:48
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That looks delicious and I want to eat it.
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Dec 13, 2020 02:51
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A quick cheap strut install turned into replacing the entirety of the rear suspension, along with wheel cylinders, a tie rod end and an alignment. Jesus christ. Things devolved to oxyfuel torch almost immediately. I fought with everything on the drivers side, and on the second I just cut every link in half to get the entire trailing arm out of the way, which gave me room to carefully burn off the seized bastard bushings while not destroying all the rivnuts. Still had to chase every single thread, and replace every single bolt (thank god for mcmaster and JIS flanged head bolts).  Obnoxious number of links and bushings back there. Lower arm/strut bushing, camber arm, toe arm and trailing arm bushing. Pretty sure they were all original with 200k on them.  String alignment was really not that hard with some pre-planning. Lot of back and forth but with everything already broken loose it was absolutely worth avoiding going to covid-land-shop. Satisfying, too. And uh, yeah I should have done that ~50k ago.
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Dec 13, 2020 04:30
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I absolutely hate the location of the third gen Focus battery. It is worse with my Focus as it is a diesel and the battery is huge.
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Dec 13, 2020 23:22
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It's always great reading through this thread to see the various accomplishments of the community here in AI, but now you all have one more thing to do - play the Sheep Game! We have just over a week left before the deadline for the annual AI Sheep Game, and I've only heard from 27 players so far. We can do better than this, AI, and we have! It's my hope that we will break our record this year for the largest Sheep Game of all, which would require 35 more players! There are a lot of people in this thread who post a ton here, but have never participated...why not get in on the fun for the first time ever?   Click on the picture to continue to the Sheep Game thread!
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Dec 14, 2020 03:26
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You Am I posted:I absolutely hate the location of the third gen Focus battery. It is worse with my Focus as it is a diesel and the battery is huge. My battery is under the driver's seat. You must run this power seat all the way to the front to take off some trim pieces at the back to uncover the hinge. Then you must run this power seat to the rear most of the way to get at the bolts in the front. Then as you tilt the seat you need to jockey it forward to clear since it overhangs the hinge. But it needs to stay back for a while or the seat bottom won't clear the bottom of the steering wheel. Note, you are operating this power seat with a dead battery, so a jump pack of similar is required to change your battery. Why yes, it IS german.
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Dec 14, 2020 03:59
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  The airbox takes no more than 5 minutes to remove.I actually was able to use the stock hold-down (with some spacers) and got the top covers snapped on, but it's very tight. Hopefully the new parts complete this little project. Successfully reset the BMS, and while we were at it, disabled the annoying as heck double horn honk (if you get out with the key fob in your pocket, and shut the door. Makes you look real slick when it get out just to check the mail and the neighbor thinks you're honking at them).
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Dec 14, 2020 06:43
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