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Oh, and I got the HF cheap air body saw for the trans tunnel cover mods I needed to do. I give it a 5 out of 10. Pretty gutless, did the job under protest. It didn't fail entirely so I'm not recommending against it, but it kept stalling out, so I'd say get the more expensive version they have.
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Sep 19, 2020 05:10
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gently caress yes all my parts arrived and I'm going to put the new rear axle in on Thursday, hopefully along with some wiring to be done for the exterior lighting and engine bay. I've unfortunately been rather busy with the house and new property out West the last month or so and haven't really been able to dedicate any time to the trucks. As soon as the Honcho is out I need to pack more crap up into crates to get it out of the way and then do the 4x4 swap on the blue Comanche. I believe I have already collected all the parts for that project, at least.
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Oct 14, 2020 03:47
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Sorry if you've answered this already, how many vehicles do you anticipate will make the trip West?
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Oct 14, 2020 09:22
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The blue MJ is going because it's my daily at this point. The Roadmaster is going, of course. The Honcho is going. The Justy might get towed out if I can't find anyone to buy it in time. I'd rather sell it out here and buy a FWD one with a dead engine and trans for pocket change out there to electrify though, my ideas on what constitutes the ideal commuter vehicle have changed since I bought this one and I'm tired of trying to find NLA parts for a 30 year old rare sub-economy disposable car. The grand wagoneer might go if I win the lottery but it's not likely. The 5 ton, gold Forester, and white MJ are absolutely not going. The red XJ, half a green XJ, third MJ, Datsun, motorcycle, red Forester, and silver Forester are all already gone.
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Oct 14, 2020 14:07
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kastein posted:gently caress yes all my parts arrived First I flap wheeled the rust off the areas I needed to weld perches to, and marked the locations they go in.  Next I tack welded a few old nuts to the top of the axle tube exactly where the inboard edge of the outer side of each perches will sit. Why? Because this allows me to slap the perches on, jack the axle up under the leaf springs until the center pins go in the holes in the perches, get the truck sitting on jackstands under the axle to load the springs, bounce it a bit so it settles and then just use a big pipe wrench to spin the axle till the pinion angle is right without worrying about the perches sliding sideways on the axle tube. Test fit (had to grind the nubs off - the manufacturer makes them with 6 nubs in the axle cutouts so they fit two sizes of tube, you grind them off for the larger tube size)  Rip the old axle out and slide the new one under. These fuckers are heavy, I want to say 300-400ish. I was very sore yesterday.  Take a break to weld the landing gear back onto a crashed plane so it will roll, and push it behind the hangar so it's not in the way anymore  Cut some pieces of 6x0.75 plate to make ubolt plates from. Janky bandsaw needs fixing but it did finally finish the job.  Drill a bunch of holes in them  None of my vises were big enough  Done  Axle is bolted in again!  Steal the aftermarket armored diff cover off the old 60 to put on the new one and... What's this? I thought this axle was welded! Guess the listing price on this axle just went up.  Driver side caliper compressed with no drama so it went on, but the passenger one fought back, meaning I should have rebuilt it. Then the pistons were jammed (thanks, self) and wouldn't come back out with compressed air because I wedged them into the rusty bores so I had to contraptioneer a device to push them back out. https://www.youtube.com/watch?v=iVzN-nvDIyc I also mostly installed the brake lines, mounted the shocks, put the correct ujoint and companion flange on the rear driveshaft and hooked it up, and figured out all the parts I needed to buy that I didn't realize I needed going in. Hopefully.
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Oct 18, 2020 16:12
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kastein posted:Driver side caliper compressed with no drama so it went on, but the passenger one fought back, meaning I should have rebuilt it. Then the pistons were jammed (thanks, self) and wouldn't come back out with compressed air because I wedged them into the rusty bores so I had to contraptioneer a device to push them back out. If it's stupid but it works...
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Oct 19, 2020 20:10
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After that debacle the seal kits I bought were for the wrong calipers (thanks rockauto) and then UPS misdelivered the correct kit I ordered from them for 4x the rockauto price because I wanted to get it fast (WTF) so I went to the junkyard and got a used caliper for ten bucks to make it roll immediately. Brake lines came out nice. This was done without a bending tool because cunifer rocks.  I hate Allen heads, especially non corrosion resistant ones that are countersunk, with a passion so I bought some galvanized torx ones instead.  There was a visitor. Luckily I spotted him before rolling over him with the mechanics creeper.  BLING BLING  As I've said before you cannot have too many taps.    I also: * finished the LED taillights * Finished the rest of the brake line connections * Built the rear lighting harness but didn't dry vinyl tape or loom it yet * 100% completed the front lighting harness * Wired most of the firewall connector light outputs to the PDC * Filled and bled the brakes * Got the parking brake unstuck, the axle had been sitting outside for 4 or 5 years so they were pretty hung up * Reinstalled the axleshafts * Filled the diff * Installed the parking brake cables, but they have nothing to connect to at the cab end yet * Put most of the side markers on (except where I lacked new bulbs to install) Not much more to go before it's ready to drive home.
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Oct 30, 2020 06:26
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* Horn now works * Headlights now work * Replaced all 4 marker lamp bulbs since some of them were bad, installed all marker lamp housings fully * Secured the front lighting harness, reinstalled grille * Temporarily fixed the crack in the washer fluid tank I installed by globbing RTV over it Dry vinyl wrapped rear lighting harness that I mentioned before  Then re-loomed it. I need to find a good vendor for loom tubing because I hate the cheap crap from HD/AZ/Amazon that melts and disintegrates fast, so I'm just reusing the stuff I took off that was in good shape right now.   With that, focus moved to trying to weatherproof the cabin so I can drive it cross country soon. First, mount the shift boot. Which, well, I bought a kenworth one and was gonna use it but then I found one for a 65-67 Buick Special that I bought almost ten years ago for one of my MJs and never installed, and it looked like a better fit, so I used that instead. First, put the floor cover into the Jeep and hold the boot in the right spot, trace the outside edge with a sharpie, take it all out, and carefully transfer the screw locations from boot onto floor cover. Then trace the mounting flange shape onto stainless and cut it to shape, contour the stainless to match the floor cover, screw it down:  Then take it back off and sandwich the boot in:  Install floor plate with copious amounts of butyl rope seal and larger self tappers than the previous owner, since he stripped all the holes:  Took a break from interior sheet metal work to make the intake so it actually had a filter on it:  (This is the intake that both Tremek and Terrible Robot suggested IIRC, with one more elbow added and a bit of the aluminum tube cut off to fit. Thanks guys!) E: it was Elmnt80 and Tremek, whoooooops Then decided if I wanted to seal the rest of the gaping holes in the floor I needed to build the tcase shifter and finish installing the parking brake cabling. I started with the first one since I can always just take the parking brake cables back off. My nv4500 is a weird early one that has casting bosses to mount a tcase shifter handle to, and by luck they happen to line up exactly with a hole in the floor that was used with a factory transfer case lever. So I used a bunch of random junk I had around (seriously, 1.5x0.25 bar stock, a handful of grade 8 bolts, a busted YJ tcase shifter linkage bar, a piece of 1x0.312 DOM tubing, half inch round bar stock, an extra 1/4 inch rod end joint from fixing a 1974 Case backhoe, a few screws out of the random bolt bin we inherited from the previous tenant at the hangar, half of a dakota ax15 shifter, and a grease zerk stolen off a 1992 w250 front driveshaft) to fabricobble one. It actually works quite nicely for what it is: https://www.youtube.com/watch?v=EkzLLYWT7Cw The grease zerk is for the one pivot point, which is just a slug of DOM tubing spinning between two washers on a smooth shank grade 8 bolt so I figured it could use some grease to keep it from rusting solid at least. I actually did the math on the lever arms to make sure the lever throw would work out nicely for the space I had available and the lever would be within easy reach of the driver without clobbering them or the passenger and it worked out almost exactly how I planned it once I built it, which was nice. Left to do before driving it home: * Hook wiper motor back up, along with washer fluid pump relay trigger wiring * Transfer case shift lever boot so the floor isn't so leaky, fill in areas cut out by the previous owner to clear his custom Dana 20 twin stick shifters * Brake lamp switch * Aim headlights * Finish installing parking brake cables and ideally hook them to lever(s) * Ideally, build new front winch bumper * Edit: oh yeah, trailer hitch, license plate light, trailer hitch wiring adapter kastein fucked around with this message at 09:06 on Nov 18, 2020 |
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Nov 18, 2020 05:52
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longcat, meet L O N G N E W T
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Nov 18, 2020 06:44
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kastein posted:So I used a bunch of random junk I had around (seriously, 1.5x0.25 bar stock, a handful of grade 8 bolts, a busted YJ tcase shifter linkage bar, a piece of 1x0.312 DOM tubing, half inch round bar stock, an extra 1/4 inch rod end joint from fixing a 1974 Case backhoe, a few screws out of the random bolt bin we inherited from the previous tenant at the hangar, half of a dakota ax15 shifter, and a grease zerk stolen off a 1992 w250 front driveshaft) to fabricobble one. It actually works quite nicely for what it is: Lol, perfect! Some people try to shame others for hoarding all those scraps of tubing and steel and bolts and nuts. Sounds like it's 99% there.
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Nov 18, 2020 07:50
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Most of it was foot long leftovers from previous projects but there were some small scraps involved too. The only shift boot I could find that really fit the location was a twin stick, so I guess I'll just have to build a doubler for it eventually. Therefore, who knows of a good source for strong planetary gearsets in the 3:1 to 5:1 gear ratio range? Needs to withstand constant load at 2500ftlb or so and significantly more than that in shock loading. I'm thinking maybe part of a powerglide since those are used in drag applications. I was going to use a regular old np241 front half but after some thought I don't want it to have the same gear ratio as my tcase because it reduces gearing choices available.
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Nov 18, 2020 19:59
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Are the Gear Vendors all custom or are they built from some commonly available parts?
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Nov 18, 2020 20:53
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I'm not sure but they're way way way too rich for my blood. I'm looking for more a gearset collection I can scrounge at the junkyard and machine a housing for instead of paying big bucks. It's too bad that the only 4:1 sets are the teralow 231 kit that failed a lot and was discontinued and the nv241or that sells for a lot of money because it would be perfect.
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Nov 18, 2020 21:29
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My first thought was one of the planetaries from an Allison transmission, but it seems there are a poo poo ton of $900-$2500 billet replacements because they're so fragile. https://www.ebay.com/itm/121582AA-A...EEAAOSwfTlcprov still, might be a good start to get an idea of how beefy it needs to be. e: i guess you'd need all 3 gearsets for 3:1. https://www.youtube.com/watch?v=1ByVBBfEXWk&t=551s Powershift fucked around with this message at 04:46 on Nov 20, 2020 |
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Nov 20, 2020 04:24
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That's actually one of the ones that was on my short list too. I figured 4L80e or maybe a1000. I wish I could find tooth counts for the sun, ring, and planet gears for these things so I could check which individual planetary assembly I want to use but it's seeming hard to find that info because no one else gives a poo poo about it, only the resulting combined gear ratio with all the gearsets and the valve body controlling them. My other thought is a 241or 4:1 gearset but I'd rather avoid that due to expense. Someone recommended an np203 front assembly since those are independent of the tcase section but they're probably pretty rare these days so I haven't looked into it much more. E: I'm also considering a 47re or 48rh overdrive unit running in reverse but I'm not sure it's strong enough.
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Nov 21, 2020 01:33
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It's actually looking like stock Allison 1000 P3 sets (also used in the 2000 and 2400) for the wide ratio set will give me a 3.51 reduction which is pretty nice. And eyeballing them they look to be... Rather large. The sun gear is splined for a 31 spline shaft, planetary carrier for a 41 spline. Since my trans is 32 spline output I can probably work this fairly easily (32 spline and 31 are close and I already have parts in mind to make the required adapters) though I'm not sure what donor I'll use for the 41 spline shaft. This is all assuming standard spline pitch, else I'll have to custom machine parts. They may be getting destroyed in the vehicles they are typically installed in because of heavy loading or even more likely, diesel guys sled pulling. I've got a feeler out locally for a set of beater gears to measure and see if this is even worth considering, if it looks like a good fit I'll pick a decent condition set of used stock gears up on eBay for a hundred bucks.
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Nov 21, 2020 07:19
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This has the tooth counts: https://www.buffaloengine.com/catalog/p-107389/116583bb-allison-1000-2000-used-planet-set If i understand what you're goal is, you might be able to find a good core for a couple hundred bucks, lock it in first mechanically, and bolt it up.
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Nov 21, 2020 15:52
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Wayyyyyy too long. I really want to keep it under about 6in long, ideally shorter but it'll probably be about 10 or 12 inches. Basically I want to build something like this, but with more gearing and definitely not 2.72 ratio because then it's the same as my tcase low range and I get only 2 low range choices (one or both) instead of 3 (front, rear, both) https://www.northwestfab.com/NWF-BlackBox-Underdrive_c_7.html The problem is that 99% of transfer cases that are easily used as a donor for the gearset are also 2.72 ratio, and the rest are crazy stupid expensive (4:1 rubicon transfer cases.) So I've branched out into looking at other gearset donors.
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Nov 21, 2020 16:12
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Well I found a vendor doing a stock blowout on 34 spline 2wd Allison output shafts on eBay for ten bucks each, so I got one for experimental purposes. I guess worst case it'll be a nice paperweight. My actual hope is that I can find a way to cut it down to 32 spline and machine a retention nut thread onto it as well. Hoping to finish the truck this week but I've been saying that for a while now.
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Dec 1, 2020 18:28
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Well. My cab is nominally weather and pest proof. Covered up the hacked up hole in the floor, then put the factory tcase shifter block off plate on and punched some holes in it, installed the boot I bought too. My hydraulic knockout punch worked overtime on this project because it's much nicer than using a hole saw on sheet metal and none of the hole sizes were super critical so I just used the ones that fit best. Moved the plate over to prepare for installing a trailer hitch, secured the half-installed parking brake cables and finished routing the tcase and trans vent lines, too. Next I should probably get the HVAC blower working since it's loving cold out. Other things needing doing: Brake light switch needs to be hooked up License plate lamp needs to be installed Trailer light wiring connector and receiver tube welding Wiper motor hook up Find highway worthy tires for a 16 or 16.5 rim
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Dec 5, 2020 07:56
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kastein posted:Find highway worthy tires for a 16 or 16.5 rim  Good luck and godspeed.
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Dec 5, 2020 08:13
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There are still half a billion trucks running those on the road, even out here. I just checked tirerack and they have 39 different choices for 245/75R16 load range D alone. I'm pretty sure I can walk into my local pick n pull tire warehouse and pick out a nice set under 5 years old for like 150 bucks, if I can't find a set on CL for around the same. Hell, I'd even go 10 years if I really had to, though it's not ideal. (Those rim sizes are the choices because I've got a set of wheels for each just sitting here with the right lug pattern. If I saw 17s on even the ugliest wheels for the same price range I'd be fine with that, they just need to go 3000 miles without a blowout.)
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Dec 5, 2020 09:25
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Brake light switch is hooked up, brake lights work now License plate light installed Trailer receiver tube welded into bumper, no safety chain loops yet Wiper motor hooked back up but not the washer sprayer, that's going to need some fuckery so I left it for now Determined that the heater control valve from the van isn't needed (I'm used to XJs so I left it in assuming there was a vacuum line to run it hiding somewhere) but at this point it's easier to leave it so I just hooked it to manifold vacuum so it's always on  Drove it outside and promptly got stuck on the grass in the 6 inches of wet snow that fell while I was there, because I'm still lacking a front driveshaft and haven't put the rear locker in yet. I guess it lives in that spot until the snow melts hopefully in a few days. Left to do: Trailer safety loops Trailer light connector HVAC blower control wire splicing - probably 3 or 4 butt splices at most but I ran out of motivation when I realized my laptop with the wiring diagrams for the Savana was 500ft away and it had snowed. Parking brake lever... Need to do more research for this Oh, and finish and gear the custom front axle and regear the rear axle and install the locker, but that can wait. kastein fucked around with this message at 07:12 on Dec 6, 2020 |
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Dec 6, 2020 05:37
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The ex-mil 16.5 takeoffs are junk. That size in general is aging out in the medium duty industry with 19.5. Stick to a 16, or go 17. I fuckin dig your shift boots and how they came out. I might have to copy it because the ford ones are complete garbage.
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Dec 6, 2020 20:13
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I read the reviews after buying the second one for the tcase and apparently I can expect it to turn to poo poo within a year, but it's too late now. The one on the trans I really like how it came out, but I'll probably redo the clamping plate using my hydraulic knockout punch to cut the inside of the ring instead of the rampant holesaw abuse I committed the first time. I've got a handful of shifter boots I've used and haven't used and I think I like the trans one the most. The unused ones are an 01ish Dodge 1500 one for an nv3500/5.2 truck (liked the way it looked but was worried about sourcing replacements if needed) and the kenworth one I bought originally for the trans, which just didn't fit nicely on my trans tunnel due to the big ridge going up to the firewall at the front. I was thinking about going to the mil takeoffs in the future but they definitely aren't in the budget right now. Was mostly looking at fairly young takeoffs at the junkyard and on FB/CL.
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Dec 6, 2020 20:42
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Pic of the trailer hitch from last week. Honcho tires: bought a $100 set of 245/75-16 Toyo open country ATs with some funny shoulder wear on one and about half tread. Good enough. They'll last the drive and I'll put something better on after. I strategically located the one with the funny wear on the rear right for easier disposal. Then I found out that the 8x6.5 second gen dodge wheels I planned to use won't fit over the hubs on the rear 60 because ford decided to use a hub a few mm larger on their 60s than Dodge or Chevy did on theirs despite them having the same lug pattern and center section.  So I drove to a friend's place and bought a pair of 16x8 8x6.5 cragar soft 8s for the rear and a random ford factory wheel for my spare. Drove back. Mounted tires, found out... That the cragars have such a big center hole that my balancer doesn't fit it. In fact I have 3 duplicates of the cone size that doesn't fit it. So I abused one with my lathe until the clamping cone would fit over:  Oh and I got it unstuck because the snow finally all melted mostly. So it was time to drive it around for the hell of it and take pictures because it's unlikely I'll get another chance.     Clutch hydraulics are acting up, either the line is leaking or the master finished dying. I think I'm going to buy a spare master because I had to do some real sketchy poo poo to make it work after hooking it up anyways, so I knew its days were numbered. Got the HVAC blower working. One fuse under the dash was corroded and needed to splice 3 wires from the switch to the speed control module. Also discovered that the heater control valve defaults to heat, applying vacuum bypasses the heater core. So I unhooked the vacuum line I hooked up last week. And applied a handful of zipties to the defrost and fresh air vacuum servos so that I get heat and defrost until my vacuum line shows up from Amazon next week.
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Dec 14, 2020 08:13
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That is a drat good looking truck.
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Dec 14, 2020 16:24
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Liquid Communism posted:That is a drat good looking truck. Not empty quoting, but God drat.
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Dec 14, 2020 20:04
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My only complaint is that it's got a serious case of Hank Hill rear end. I hope it helps off-road as much as I suspect it will. I really wish the bed hadn't been hacked up, because the side graphics are  Oh, I finally sold my last extra nv4500 so the black Dodge pickup from the first few pages of this thread is... Almost completely gone, and I nearly doubled my money on it despite scrapping the engine due to it getting full of water. Still have the rear driveshaft, ECU, alternator, and like 4 feet of the wiring harness. So I decided to turn some of that profit into parts for the doubler project and will find out if it's feasible in a week or so when the gearset arrives from eBay.
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Dec 14, 2020 21:36
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2 things: J-truck is goddamn awesome. Is that tailgate latch stock? I'm pretty sure it's the door handle from a Gremlin. God I love AMC.
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Dec 14, 2020 22:46
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Boaz MacPhereson posted:2 things: Agreed. I love that truck, and I'm still mad about not seeing the one in my area that was listed for sale cheap a few years ago. I doubt I'll ever get one, but a J truck and an FSJ will always be on my "do it if at all possible" wish list.
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Dec 14, 2020 23:18
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For my next trucks I really want an M543A2 (or any other 5 ton wrecker) and a nice clean J truck and/or M715 or M726. Ideally a 726 but they're incredibly rare so I'll settle for a 715 I can turn into a modern 726. And thanks guys - it's easily one of my favorite trucks ever already. I'd wanted one for years when my friend posted it for sale and I knew I needed to buy it right then.
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Dec 15, 2020 01:49
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Your truck is indeed the most awesome looking truck and those decals are 
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Dec 15, 2020 01:54
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It still rules.
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Dec 15, 2020 01:55
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Seat Safety Switch posted:It still rules. Even with the half-rear end, it still loving owns. One of the best trucks in AI. E: lol I got nailed by GM centerbores on Ford hubs a few years ago. Ain' poo poo a grinder can't fix. Just uh go through the motions 2-3 times so that your runout is on par with a worn harborfreight lathe*. *I'm a professional, done on a closed course. don't try this at home. cursedshitbox fucked around with this message at 03:10 on Dec 15, 2020 |
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Dec 15, 2020 03:08
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Beautiful truck. Meaty tires suit it. Edit: I also really like the front end, it's ugly in a good way.
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Dec 15, 2020 03:12
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The front bumper is going to be redone in the near future to have a winch and crane mounts since I need to use it to part out the white MJ so I can use its parts on the blue MJ. I've got ideas on how I'll do it but nothing set in stone yet. Materials on hand are 3x8 3/8 wall tubing (or is it 4x8? I can't remember), 3/4 plate, and 2x6 1/4 wall tubing. I would have ground out the centers of the wheels but I wanted to be able to run them on my balancer still. LITTLE DID I KNOW that the loving balancer wouldn't fit them either. I should have just gotten an 8 lug unit bearing at the junkyard and turned it into a balancer adapter and saved myself a lot of time.
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Dec 15, 2020 03:17
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This is the truckiest truck.
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Dec 15, 2020 06:27
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I am going to rail Louis DeJoy right in the rear end and finish first and never call him back if that motherfuckers postal system sabotage results in me losing a hundred bucks on doubler parts tracking hasn't been updated at all in 4 days, hasn't been actually updated in 7. In the meantime, I had AAA haul my truck home since the snowpocalypse was imminent and 1 wheel peel on 20 year old TSLs in a foot of snow was not going to get me up the hill to the public road from my hangar. Then all the snow melted before I got anything done anyways. But at least it's in my driveway not parked outside the hangar where vandals can gently caress with it, which is an ongoing issue there. I'm going to try and get the master cylinder swapped out soon so I can drive it around my neighborhood, other than that it's minor interior work, wiring, and hopefully build the Dana 70 front well enough that I can bring it home and swap it in too, so that I can sell the 44 that's under the front now instead of hauling unfinished parts West. That would also mean I could do the front driveshaft and check it off the list, though I still won't have 4x4 since it'll be 4.88 or 5.13 front and 3.55 rear. I also need to remember to bring my welding helmet and a pair of calipers and my 75/25 tank home next time I go to the hangar so I can weld some stuff on it here.
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Dec 26, 2020 07:37
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Parts still not here, 0/10 would not reside in pre-fall Roman empire again I bumblefucked the CMC into working again by pouring more fluid in it and pounding angrily on the clutch pedal. So I haven't even lifted a finger to swap that out because it works again. I guess I'll wait till it strands me in the middle of an intersection or something. Been using it to drag the garbage cans to the street and back every week, occasional joyrides, moving stuff around the yard, etc. Today my defrost vent tubing came in (I didn't even know dorman made this stuff...) So I upgraded from the original bluetooth defroster tubes to hardwired:  The air actually makes it to the windshield defrost vents now, a marked improvement over how I got it. Also replaced all the remaining factory vacuum lines - there were two dangling in the dash for the air inlet and defrost vacuum servos, and the one from the HVAC controls to the vacuum reservoir in the engine compartment didn't exist at all. So I put all new lines in. One of the two servos works great now, the other will hold if I pull it in manually and kink the line so I'm pretty sure the HVAC controls need to be rebuilt. Today I had to drag some stuff up the hill so I drove it down into the yard to be photographed with the other unfinished project.  I've also been researching for my GM class 2 serial to FSJ cluster interface module since I want all of the factory gauges - including the ammeter (but minus the smoke and fire release feature they came with) - to work with the LS swap without jamming extra sensors in random places and making bad wiring decisions. Unfortunately I let the smoke out of this guinea pig temp gauge last night while testing so I need to get my spare spare unit from the hangar to make any more progress on it.  These use a stupid CVR unit that steps 12V down to "5V" by using a bimetallic strip and a thermal winding. Basically, 50s pulsewidth modulation. Complete with a radio noise suppressor (mine was missing) and broad spectrum RF interference since it's essentially a spark gap transmitter. It seems a lot of people replace them with a 5V or 6V linear regulator but there is little to no consensus on which it should be. I'm going to build to support 6V due to this. My favorite feature of this bullshit-rear end design is that if the cluster loses its ground - very easy to have happen since it's grounded through one lovely self tapper threaded into the plastic gauge bezel, which half-heartedly clamps the PCB against the steel gauge mounting plate, passing the current to a too-narrow trace on a 50 year old phenolic PCB that promptly burns out - the CVR turns on 100% duty cycle and goes up in smoke, sometimes taking 1 to 3 gauges with it. Great design...
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Dec 31, 2020 05:20
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