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SpartanIvy posted:I set up Octoprint this weekend and it rules. I should have done this months ago. Yes... A 3D printing workflow that requires a computer be running during the process just seems antiquated these days. goddamnedtwisto posted:Yeah I started playing with it after a badly-timed Windows update ruined a 23-hour print about 20 hours in, it's nice to have an open source thing that Just Works. Maybe the only thing that might be a useful addition is integrating a slicer with it to cut down the workflow a bit, but it's not like hitting "Save as file" and dragging it over is massively more onerous than just hitting "Print". All of the popular slicers have built in support for sending directly to OctoPrint and can even kick off the print job in some cases. Cura (needs a plugin), Slic3r (direct support), and PrusaSlicer (direct support) all have support for direct upload to OctoPrint and Duet based boards. Simplfy3D doesn't (not without some work anyways).
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Dec 14, 2020 20:07
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stevewm posted:Simplfy3D doesn't (not without some work anyways). You can put this in your s3d post-processing script, but just get a modern slicer. s3d is way behind. code:
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Dec 14, 2020 20:38
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eddiewalker posted:You can put this in your s3d post-processing script, but just get a modern slicer. s3d is way behind. Yeah... I don't use S3D anymore (I regrettably bought a license for it like 6 years ago). Was pointing out it doesn't support what every modern slicer does natively.
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Dec 14, 2020 20:45
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Ah, I don't regret buying mine. It was way ahead at the time...but happily using Prusaslicer now. Still miss how easy it was to add custom support, but Prusaslicer gets the job done...and the quality of the supports are awesome. Also just spent a full day troubleshooting my heated bed. (120v silicone bed). Thought it was the Duet acting up, but it turns out to be the heating element itself :/...I have a spare duet, relays, etc...just no spare heating element and a long list of things to print.
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Dec 14, 2020 22:08
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I bought it specifically because its supports used to be unmatched by any other, and I was printing things that needed lots of supports at the time. It also tended to produce slightly better paths in some cases, at the time. Nowadays it just seems to be stuck back in time, much like printers still using 8-bit controllers. No matter what slicer I used, I always ended up going back to Slic3r/PrusaSlicer. stevewm fucked around with this message at 22:27 on Dec 14, 2020 |
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Dec 14, 2020 22:22
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ImplicitAssembler posted:Ah, I don't regret buying mine. It was way ahead at the time...but happily using Prusaslicer now. Still miss how easy it was to add custom support, but Prusaslicer gets the job done...and the quality of the supports are awesome. Download the current beta of PrusaSlicer -- it has paint-on support blockers and enforcers. Even better than the S3D manual support column system, IMO.
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Dec 14, 2020 22:38
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ImplicitAssembler posted:Also just spent a full day troubleshooting my heated bed. (120v silicone bed). Thought it was the Duet acting up, but it turns out to be the heating element itself :/...I have a spare duet, relays, etc...just no spare heating element and a long list of things to print. How quickly does your 120v bed get up to temperature? I would assume pretty much immediately? I've always been happy with my 12v bed... It gets up to my preferred printing temp (50C) in about 2 minutes typically. 80C takes about 4 minutes. It wasn't like that to begin with though... With the stock power supply that SeeMeCNC used to include with the Rostock kits, it easily took 10 minutes to reach 50C with the voltage sagging to sub 11v the entire time.
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Dec 14, 2020 22:41
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stevewm posted:How quickly does your 120v bed get up to temperature? I would assume pretty much immediately? Less than a minute to 70C?* Another benefit is that you can switch to a fanless power-supply. (Which I have yet to do, but may do now since the printer is down anyway). *70C is my default bed temperature for just about everything.
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Dec 14, 2020 22:48
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ImplicitAssembler posted:Ah, I don't regret buying mine. It was way ahead at the time...but happily using Prusaslicer now. Still miss how easy it was to add custom support, but Prusaslicer gets the job done...
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Dec 14, 2020 22:50
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Any ideas on what happened here:  I printed the same file successfully later, but was wondering if anyone had any ideas on what happened. Also my fiance was against getting the printer, because he didn't think we'd get enough use of it. He's changed his mind now, and started a print on his own.
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Dec 15, 2020 00:29
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That's a really bad angle, but it looks like the print detached from the build plate?
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Dec 15, 2020 00:55
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Maigius posted:Any ideas on what happened here: incoming sagebrush to tell you to clean your bed with dish soap instead of the visible alcohol wipe
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Dec 15, 2020 01:27
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BMan posted:incoming sagebrush to tell you to clean your bed with dish soap instead of the visible alcohol wipe if i wasn't supervising a final critique for the last couple of hours i would have beaten you to this post! but yes, that's just plain old adhesion problems, and if the printer was working fine before, you can fix it by washing the bed with dish soap.
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Dec 15, 2020 01:34
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Sagebrush posted:if i wasn't supervising a final critique for the last couple of hours i would have beaten you to this post! Weirdly, the good prints happened afterwards. Will standard Dawn work?
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Dec 15, 2020 01:42
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Maigius posted:Weirdly, the good prints happened afterwards. Will standard Dawn work? Yep just don't touch the build plate once it's clean. Surprisingly small amounts of oil can cause annoying bed adhesion problems. alternatively, if it's working fine now, whatever was on there might no longer be. Dr. Fishopolis fucked around with this message at 01:58 on Dec 15, 2020 |
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Dec 15, 2020 01:55
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Maigius posted:Weirdly, the good prints happened afterwards. Will standard Dawn work? I find this happens sometimes. Sometimes you just get random failures. The cleaner the bed, the less likely it will let go. If the success was started shortly after this one finished, the bed could have been already warm and stable. The previous one could have taken the surface oils with it. Dawns fine, just wash it completely off. Soap residue is not good for adhesion.
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Dec 15, 2020 01:56
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Squirt some dish soap on the build plate and then, without adding any water, lather it all over the surface with your hands. Get both sides well coated. Then, holding the plate by its edges, rinse it all off with hot water. Hold it up to drain the water off and verify that it passes the water break test If you see blotches, go back and soap those areas again. If it passes, stand the plate up on end and let it air-dry. Handle the plate only by its edges when reinstalling it into the printer and avoid touching it from then on.
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Dec 15, 2020 02:02
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Cross posting with the electronics thread since I thought you guys might have some good ideas. What kind of jobs might I look for that combine electronics, software, 3D printing, laser cutting, etc.? I've been searching with the terms "prototyping", "arduino", "rasberry pi", and "3d printing". Curious if there are other terms or specific job titles that would match on LinkedIn, Indeed, etc.? I do software engineering as a day job, was educated as a mechanical design engineer, and do electronics on the side.
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Dec 15, 2020 04:18
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Sagebrush posted:Squirt some dish soap on the build plate and then, without adding any water, lather it all over the surface with your hands. Get both sides well coated. Then, holding the plate by its edges, rinse it all off with hot water. Hold it up to drain the water off and verify that it passes the water break test Ok, maybe you can help with my Intamsys build plates. They have a smooth and matte side, and while I usually use the matte, smooth is needed for some surface finishes with the paint-on stickums like WolfBite or NanoPolymer. Anyway, the smooth side of the bed will ALWAYS bead, and I can't use it anymore. Hot water, Dawn, scrubbed until my fingers were pruney. I've tried magic erasers. I've tried bleach. I've tried Windex. I've tried ethanol. I've tried brake cleaner. I've tried straight lye and water in a paste. I've tried MEK. I then went backwards up the chain ending at disk soap and an RO water rinse. I think it started after applying Kapton tape, so whatever's in the adhesive? what the gently caress though
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Dec 15, 2020 05:31
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If none of those solvents are working, the Kapton tape probably had a silicone adhesive. There are no true solvents for silicone; the only solutions I'm aware of that can liquefy/destroy it contain strong acids. Who know what that would do to the rest of the bed. I am a little surprised that the magic eraser didn't work, though, since it works by abrading away the gunk you're trying to remove. Have you tried just sanding off the entire top 0.2mm or so? e: oh it's a ceramic plate lol. Well maybe you can go at it with a silicon carbide wheel or something. Good luck e2: but maybe then you'd be fine with an acid cleaner/digester? Depends how much your bed is worth I guess https://prosoco.com/product/dicone-nc9/ Sagebrush fucked around with this message at 05:52 on Dec 15, 2020 |
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Dec 15, 2020 05:49
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for all the money you spent couldnt you just buy a new build plate? this only sounds cheaper if your time is worth nothing edit: oh i'm conflating maigus and insta's problems. the prusa plates are replacable.
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Dec 15, 2020 06:29
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Not kapton, but I worked with someone who was experimenting with PEI sheets. To remove the adhesive residue from them he was soaking them in limonene for extended periods of time. Searching for "kapton tape adhesive residue" indicates that it is a silicone adhesive. Searching for removing silicone in general found me Permatex Silicone Stripper. The msds of that shows it to be mostly light petroleum distillates (lighter fluid, or a large proportion of goo gone), some heptane, and a small amount of an organic acid (dodecylbenzenesulfonic acid). Essentially light solvents and a detergent.
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Dec 15, 2020 06:48
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huhu posted:Cross posting with the electronics thread since I thought you guys might have some good ideas. The only jobs like this I'm aware of are at places like Lockheed-Martin, Delta's TechOps (where they do a lot of engine maintenance for other airlines), Northrop-Grumman and other similar companies. Mostly because they use impressive industrial 3d printers and lasers to make fixtures for "traditional" CNC machines to hold critical parts for machining. Good luck getting a foot in the door without knowing someone that works there, though.
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Dec 15, 2020 10:08
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biracial bear for uncut posted:Look for a slicer setting that says something like "Allow thin extrusions" or "Enable single wall extrusions"--what that does is make an exception in the logic of your slicer settings to only attempt to put as many walls as will fit without problem-causing overlap between the filament paths. I couldn't find anything that matches what you mention but I did find a setting to compensate flow when overlapping already printed walls. That confuses me because of you know your going over where you've already printed surely you shouldn't try to extrude more plastic? Anyway, it worked and I got that print out intact thank you. I'll dig further into cura's expert settings because something doesn't feel right about it going over the same lines twice and I've had it on several pieces with thin walls.
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Dec 15, 2020 10:36
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Cura's version is "Print thin walls", under the Shell heading. If you haven't un-hidden all the settings, it's worth it just to see what's available. There are a shitload of options, although many of them don't really need to be futzed with manually because the automatically calculated numbers are usually fine. Once you learn what you use and what you don't, you can go back and hide the ones you never touch so they're not cluttering up the list.
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Dec 15, 2020 12:45
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Oh, I saw that but I thought that's to solve not printing walls that should be there, misread.
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Dec 15, 2020 13:15
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It is ostensibly exactly for that, but it should also help keep it from trying to put full walls where there already are some. That's always been my understanding anyway, and it's entirely possible that I'm wrong.
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Dec 15, 2020 15:28
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huhu posted:Cross posting with the electronics thread since I thought you guys might have some good ideas. Yknow how office buildings will have big fancy led displays in their fancy lobbies? Or big installations at trade shows and conventions, or even such as weird stuff on concert stages? Some small-ish fabrication shop is building those. escape room designers also kind of fit the bill you’re describing. Neither of these are jobs that you just go out and “get” though, at least IME. it’s all networking and getting subcontracted from people you’ve met from doing it who are getting subcontracted from other people etc up the line. If you’re not down with the instability of contractor life it’s not going to be a good time.
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Dec 15, 2020 16:02
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So what I'm hearing is soak my build plate in hot sulfuric acid, got it. 
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Dec 15, 2020 16:17
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Dumb question - there's no particular reason I couldn't use PLA to make a cookie cutter, is there? It's only going to be used on cold dough and obviously I'd make sure to sand it down to get any loose bits off and thoroughly wash it.
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Dec 15, 2020 17:10
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goddamnedtwisto posted:Dumb question - there's no particular reason I couldn't use PLA to make a cookie cutter, is there? It's only going to be used on cold dough and obviously I'd make sure to sand it down to get any loose bits off and thoroughly wash it.
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Dec 15, 2020 17:14
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Someone posted something a while ago about painting/dipping fdm prints in sla reason to make them food safe, the resin fills in the layer gaps I believe?
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Dec 15, 2020 17:24
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A bunch of epoxies will do that, but you might want to be careful to get a food safe one. I've come across this one, but haven't had to use it myself https://www.amazon.com/MAX-CLEAR-GR...&language=en_US
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Dec 15, 2020 17:44
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goddamnedtwisto posted:Dumb question - there's no particular reason I couldn't use PLA to make a cookie cutter, is there? It's only going to be used on cold dough and obviously I'd make sure to sand it down to get any loose bits off and thoroughly wash it. For one-off and personal use, it's NBD. Etsy is FULL of them, most of which call themselves food-safe, but I wouldn't expect it to be perfect forever. As mentioned, the layer lines are great places for stuff to fee, and PLA is not dishwasher safe. However, if you clean them well and inspect them thoroughly before use, they're *probably* fine. Source: most of my printing in 2019 was cookie cutters for my wife and her friend. Most of them got used for a batch or few and tossed. Design and printing was only a couple of hours of work, and making multiples is easy, so there wasn't a need for long-term re-use.
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Dec 15, 2020 18:00
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Okay I'm getting sick of this. I went back and checked and I'd got print thin walls enabled, the print looked fine but I came to take it off the bed just now and it crumbled at the top. 4 walls 25% gyroid, the top and walls just delaminated when I touched them.  The two thin uprights in the middle snapped right out at the slightest pressure, no later adherence at all  Looks like under extrusion again  gently caress this part. Nothing else causes this problem so consistently.
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Dec 15, 2020 18:07
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I wonder if it's just because that extremely long unsupported central piece sags enough that you aren't getting good layer fusion.
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Dec 15, 2020 18:51
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That wouldn't surprise me... Have you considered printing that in a different orientation, and/or with supports?
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Dec 15, 2020 18:52
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The print has clearly gone to poo poo before it even reaches that point though, look at those thin pieces
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Dec 15, 2020 19:48
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How old is your filament?
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Dec 15, 2020 19:50
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goddamnedtwisto posted:Dumb question - there's no particular reason I couldn't use PLA to make a cookie cutter, is there? It's only going to be used on cold dough and obviously I'd make sure to sand it down to get any loose bits off and thoroughly wash it. When the pandemic started some of the 3D printed mask makers ran tests to show their pla prints were able to be disenfected (I think with isopropyl alcohol?) and they passed. A cookie cutter should be fine as long as it’s meticulously cleaned
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Dec 15, 2020 20:02
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