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It's got supports built in to the STL, the top edge was the right shape, just under extruded. Excuse the photo of a screen. Tempted to slice it on prusaslicer just to see if I get a different result.
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Dec 15, 2020 20:07
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huhu posted:Cross posting with the electronics thread since I thought you guys might have some good ideas. Say I want a giant flaming torch made of 200 individual moving parts for my olympic opening ceremony. Or a giant picking machine to select bottles from a huge rack in my trendy winebar. Or an animatronic pterodactyl for my theme park ride. https://www.stageone.co.uk/services/
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Dec 15, 2020 20:31
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NewFatMike posted:How old is your filament? Fairly new, the print before and after this were fine.
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Dec 15, 2020 20:40
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AlexDeGruven posted:For one-off and personal use, it's NBD. Etsy is FULL of them, most of which call themselves food-safe, but I wouldn't expect it to be perfect forever. Yeah it's pretty much for a one-off joke so I don't mind too much about reuse. Any hints on design? My first thought is just do a sketch in Fusion 360, extrude it out to 5 cms then chamfer the top (printing orientation) to make a blade, but if there's any easier way I'm all ears.
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Dec 15, 2020 21:03
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cakesmith handyman posted:It's got supports built in to the STL, the top edge was the right shape, just under extruded. On general principle I'd lay that flat (i.e both long sides on the bed) to reduce the amount of material wasted in supports, unless you've a specific structural reason to want the lines going that way. If you're seeing underextrusion as you go up, have you checked your filament path isn't snagging or something on the way up?
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Dec 15, 2020 21:06
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goddamnedtwisto posted:Yeah it's pretty much for a one-off joke so I don't mind too much about reuse. Any hints on design? My first thought is just do a sketch in Fusion 360, extrude it out to 5 cms then chamfer the top (printing orientation) to make a blade, but if there's any easier way I'm all ears. From my experience you don't need to chamfer the edge. Just do a 1mm thick extrusion and it is plenty sharp enough to cut dough.
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Dec 15, 2020 21:34
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goddamnedtwisto posted:On general principle I'd lay that flat (i.e both long sides on the bed) to reduce the amount of material wasted in supports, unless you've a specific structural reason to want the lines going that way. Laying it flat would require more supports, what you see in the picture is the STL with support designed in, not the sliced model with support generated. That orientation gives the best surface finish. Filament path is fine, the under extrusion is caused by clogging as when the centre "support" piece is printed it's 1 wall thick but the nozzle goes over it twice regardless of slicer settings.
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Dec 15, 2020 21:49
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Is that model publicly available? I'd kind of like to look at the actual geometry and see if there are any wayward polygons or anything that might be causing your problem. An object can be nice and watertight and pass integrity checks, but still have issues that cause... errr... issues.
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Dec 15, 2020 22:50
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No it's 1 piece of a paid model and I wouldn't feel right sharing it.
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Dec 15, 2020 23:09
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No sweat at all, I feel the same way about stuff like that. Nothing wrong with having some integrity once in a while. 
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Dec 15, 2020 23:26
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cakesmith handyman posted:It's got supports built in to the STL, the top edge was the right shape, just under extruded. It's never too early to not be using something that isn't PrusaSlicer
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Dec 15, 2020 23:47
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cakesmith handyman posted:No it's 1 piece of a paid model and I wouldn't feel right sharing it. I have no interest in printing whatever that is, but I do have software that can fix STL files. PM me if you want me to try
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Dec 15, 2020 23:55
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How crazy are you guys about moisture/dust control for storing PLA filament? Back when I worked in educational IT I had purpose-built cabinets for the school's printer farms, but that's mostly because I was mad with power and liked to spend the city's money. I just keep my spools in sealed bags now in a pretty cool, dry place and I don't seem to be having any issues, but I'm starting to wonder if I should be doing more.
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Dec 16, 2020 02:00
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Does anyone have CR-10 size enclosure? Do they like it? Its too cold and dusty in my garage.
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Dec 16, 2020 02:07
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Paradoxish posted:How crazy are you guys about moisture/dust control for storing PLA filament? Back when I worked in educational IT I had purpose-built cabinets for the school's printer farms, but that's mostly because I was mad with power and liked to spend the city's money. I just keep my spools in sealed bags now in a pretty cool, dry place and I don't seem to be having any issues, but I'm starting to wonder if I should be doing more. I've had spools in the open air for months and not had a single issue with them. I'm not recommending this, but just providing my experience. I try to keep them in zip lock bags with desiccant for the most part now.
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Dec 16, 2020 02:09
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I keep them in those 2gal ziplock bags with a desiccant packet. I live in Oregon so humidity is always an issue, so I’m not chancing it.
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Dec 16, 2020 02:20
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So I've got a PEI sheet on my glass bed and it's great. My adhesion while printing is epoxy-like. The downside of this that I have to wait for the sheet to cool down to room temperature before it releases. That can take an hour or so. In my rush to continue printing, I've put several gouges and scratches in the PEI sheet from forcing things off with my scraper. Has anyone ever tinkered with the idea of rapidly cooling the build plate via fans or something like that after a print finishes?
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Dec 16, 2020 02:57
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SpartanIvy posted:
It'll warp the print, but you can do it. Freeze spray works.
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Dec 16, 2020 03:00
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It takes an hour to cool down to room temperature? How thick is that glass?? PLA parts should detach from PEI once it's down to about 35-40C, which should take like 10 minutes Sagebrush fucked around with this message at 03:59 on Dec 16, 2020 |
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Dec 16, 2020 03:36
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I had a similar issue and bought a second plate to take cooling out of sequence.
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Dec 16, 2020 03:46
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Yeah was going to say buy another plate.
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Dec 16, 2020 04:28
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Sagebrush posted:It takes an hour to cool down to room temperature? How thick is that glass?? It has to get down to like 20-something C before it will release. For a lot of bigger prints I let it print overnight and come back to it in the morning and I can just lift it off the bed. bred posted:I had a similar issue and bought a second plate to take cooling out of sequence. Doctor Zero posted:Yeah was going to say buy another plate. The best solutions are usually the ones I totally overlook. Thanks! In other news I'm trying to install Teaching Tech's universal Board+Pi rear assembly on my machine and am now discovering I somehow assembled my Ender 3 without any proper right angles because it doesn't fit worth a drat. I already checked all my measurements and I did print it correctly, so it's definitely my Ender 3. So now I've got my printer mostly disassembled and parts everywhere and I'm calling it a night because gently caress this hobby sometimes. SpartanIvy fucked around with this message at 04:53 on Dec 16, 2020 |
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Dec 16, 2020 04:47
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I'm having a weird issue on my Ender 3 where bridging sucks going in the Y direction but is significantly better along the X axis. Is there any obvious reason that this might be the case?
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Dec 16, 2020 05:27
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I'm guessing the fan duct is oriented to provide better cooling along the length of a string running in the X axis than in the Y axis.
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Dec 16, 2020 05:31
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Sagebrush posted:I'm guessing the fan duct is oriented to provide better cooling along the length of a string running in the X axis than in the Y axis. Yeah it's probably this if you're running the default Ender 3 cooling fan. Try out the Petsfang Bullseye. You'll get much better results.
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Dec 16, 2020 05:38
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I have a petsfang on there right now, but the bottom warped a bit when I printed it, so that's probably it. I'll give it a look!
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Dec 16, 2020 07:06
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If you're using the stock 4010 fan, that might be part of it. It's really not enough airflow for a duct like the bullseye. I find a single 5015 is more than enough, folks who go whole hog with double 5020 setups tend to find out there's such a thing as too much cooling.
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Dec 16, 2020 07:15
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Dr. Fishopolis posted:If you're using the stock 4010 fan, that might be part of it. It's really not enough airflow for a duct like the bullseye. I find a single 5015 is more than enough, folks who go whole hog with double 5020 setups tend to find out there's such a thing as too much cooling. Especially if they buy cheap fans they won't run below 30-40% power.
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Dec 16, 2020 15:04
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goddamnedtwisto posted:Yeah it's pretty much for a one-off joke so I don't mind too much about reuse. Any hints on design? My first thought is just do a sketch in Fusion 360, extrude it out to 5 cms then chamfer the top (printing orientation) to make a blade, but if there's any easier way I'm all ears. I trace the design, then offset 5mm to the outside, .4mm to the inside, and 1.2mm to the inside. I extrude the 5mm up 4mm, then the first inner ring 14mm, then the innermost ring 14.8mm for a .8mm wide by .8mm tall 'cutting' edge with the inside smooth. All extrusions joined, and a fillet around the bottom edges and one at the joint of the vertical and horizontal. Occasionally, the math for the fillet gets too crazy and I skip it because I don't want to fight the geometry, but for the most part, they work ok. Hope that made sense.
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Dec 16, 2020 15:05
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A functional Monoprice Delta Pro arrived yesterday, and I'm re-learning bed adhesion tricks for a glass bed doing test prints between actual work at work.  With any luck, a "flexi" facehugger will successfully complete in about 4 hours and I can share a pic with the thread.
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Dec 16, 2020 16:25
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....huh. A print failed overnight such that literally nothing was left stuck to the build plate. I'm sure I'm going to need to replace my FEP film after this, but uh...any ideas why that might happen? It's weird as hell, it's really rare for me to get things popped off the plate. Printing at .025mm layer height, 6s/layer (which is what I printed all my lithophanes at), lift speed was sloooow (10 for bottom layers, 25 for subsequent layers).
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Dec 16, 2020 16:50
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Rockman Reserve posted:....huh. A print failed overnight such that literally nothing was left stuck to the build plate. I'm sure I'm going to need to replace my FEP film after this, but uh...any ideas why that might happen? It's weird as hell, it's really rare for me to get things popped off the plate. Printing at .025mm layer height, 6s/layer (which is what I printed all my lithophanes at), lift speed was sloooow (10 for bottom layers, 25 for subsequent layers). Lots of different reasons. Could be temperature, especially if the temps dropped overnight. Could be you aren't baking the bottom layers enough, although from your post it seems maybe that didn't change. At 6s/layer I would recommend 30-36s Bottom layer exposure time. Could be you need to sand the build plate. Could be you have cruddy resin stuck on the BP and you need to clean it. Could be your lift speed and distance. Etc. etc. You might not need to replace the FEP if the prints mashed nice and flat in big areas. I would drain, filter, and inspect it. When you say 10 and 25 for speeds, what is that? Can you post your resin and settings? Doctor Zero fucked around with this message at 17:39 on Dec 16, 2020 |
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Dec 16, 2020 17:37
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biracial bear for uncut posted:A functional Monoprice Delta Pro arrived yesterday, and I'm re-learning bed adhesion tricks for a glass bed doing test prints between actual work at work. Facehugger didn't adhere. Switching to a semi-transparent green PETG and printing a Christmas tree instead since it has a nice solid base. EDIT: I forgot how hypnotic delta printers are when in motion.
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Dec 16, 2020 17:42
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Doctor Zero posted:Lots of different reasons. Could be temperature, especially if the temps dropped overnight. Could be you aren't baking the bottom layers enough, although from your post it seems maybe that didn't change. At 6s/layer I would recommend 30-36s Bottom layer exposure time. Could be you need to sand the build plate. Could be you have cruddy resin stuck on the BP and you need to clean it. Could be your lift speed and distance. Etc. etc. I don't think it's my bottom layer exposure time...  This is with Siraya Fast White, although it might be an old jar or something - it has a different lid style than a jar of the same resin I was using a couple weeks ago. E: I'm wondering if the temperature did drop enough to cause it - the windows were closed and the heat was on but since it was night time I didn't have the ridiculous floor lamp turned on that heats up the room considerably. The windows in there are garbage and pretty drafty. But still, it seems really bizarre that nothing adhered to the plate, on a file that had 5 or 6 well-supported minis being printed base-on-plate like I normally do. Rockman Reserve fucked around with this message at 19:55 on Dec 16, 2020 |
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Dec 16, 2020 17:51
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 Prusaslicer stock settings, giant stringy mess. I'm going to let it carry on and see if the under extrusion happens later.
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Dec 16, 2020 20:19
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That looks like shavings on the drive wheel or a cracked extruder lever.
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Dec 16, 2020 20:25
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cakesmith handyman posted:
What about doing a small test print first?
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Dec 16, 2020 21:02
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To test what? The filament, the slicer, the settings? insta posted:That looks like shavings on the drive wheel or a cracked extruder lever. It's not.
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Dec 16, 2020 21:19
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Definitely try another roll of filament at this point. If both slicers are giving you different results but with the same interlayer weakness, it's going to be something inherent to the machine or material. The PrusaSlicer default settings tend to run hot, which can create more stringing, but not to the level you're showing. Excessive stringing can be a sign of moisture-laden filament. Try a different roll -- a brand-new sealed one if you can.
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Dec 16, 2020 21:25
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insta posted:Ok, maybe you can help with my Intamsys build plates. They have a smooth and matte side, and while I usually use the matte, smooth is needed for some surface finishes with the paint-on stickums like WolfBite or NanoPolymer. An idea popped into my head today. Try a pressure washer with a bit of soap. It might just need more mechanical action than is conveniet to do by hand.
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Dec 16, 2020 21:55
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