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Bucnasti
Aug 14, 2012

I'll Fetch My Sarcasm Robes

Knobb Manwich posted:

Some spray booths have a or multiple particle filters in them, so in theory you spray into the suck zone, that air goes through the filters and comes out the backside with much less paint particles. Can't tell you the in practise.

My booth has a filter in the back (a furnace filter I think) that leads to a hose you’re supposed to stick out a window, but I just have it laying on the floor under my desk. After a couple years of use the filter is caked with paint and in need of replacement, but the end of the hose and the floor around it is pristine. So I’m going to say the filter does a good job of catching the paint particles.

I only spray water based acrylics so YMMV with other types of paint.

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Thoogsby
Nov 18, 2006

Very strong. Everyone likes me.
my new "Swamp Kings"

Furism
Feb 21, 2006

Live long and headbang
I just received a $115 order I made from Reaper - first time I order there.

It was PACKED with goodies. I got like 5 minis for free, including a huge Balrog-like one that looks awesome. I got a water bottle, a water cup, even a pin. Oh and an extra mini with 4 MSP paints.

A lot look like ReaperCon Swag they just give away since the event had to be turned to a virtual one, nonetheless I very much appreciate it and my backlog has now just doubled.

Dienes
Nov 4, 2009

dee
doot doot dee
doot doot doot
doot doot dee
dee doot doot
doot doot dee
dee doot doot


College Slice

Furism posted:

I just received a $115 order I made from Reaper - first time I order there.

It was PACKED with goodies. I got like 5 minis for free, including a huge Balrog-like one that looks awesome. I got a water bottle, a water cup, even a pin. Oh and an extra mini with 4 MSP paints.

A lot look like ReaperCon Swag they just give away since the event had to be turned to a virtual one, nonetheless I very much appreciate it and my backlog has now just doubled.

A lot of the free paints are mis-mixed paint they'd otherwise just toss. Which means you have unique, one-of-a-kind colors.

Iron Crowned
May 6, 2003

by Hand Knit

Furism posted:

I just received a $115 order I made from Reaper - first time I order there.

It was PACKED with goodies. I got like 5 minis for free, including a huge Balrog-like one that looks awesome. I got a water bottle, a water cup, even a pin. Oh and an extra mini with 4 MSP paints.

A lot look like ReaperCon Swag they just give away since the event had to be turned to a virtual one, nonetheless I very much appreciate it and my backlog has now just doubled.

Sounds like I should make a Reaper order for the hell of it.

Mirthless
Mar 27, 2011

by the sex ghost
I've been playing around with metallics and pearlcoating lately as I gear up to start painting a gundam. My wife suggested I try out duochrome pigment (also some glitter) and after some exciting preliminary testing last night with her no-brand alixpress nail polish pigments, I went out and got some finer pigment powder; what I was trying last night had glitter in it which was cool but I think it had to go through the airbrush sideways and ended up kinda spattering all over my paint booth :downs: I bought some Jacquard PearlEx which seems to be suitably fine enough for airbrush use





It's very hard to see the effect in a photo but it's slightly more blue or green depending on how many layers of paint you apply, and what angle you're looking at it from. Once I've had some time to play with it I'll post some recipes.

Mirthless fucked around with this message at 00:57 on Dec 18, 2020

The Sheriff Jake
May 8, 2006

Thoogsby posted:

my new "Swamp Kings"



Looks great, what did you use for that slime on the base?

Eej
Jun 17, 2007

HEAVYARMS

Mirthless posted:

I've been playing around with metallics and pearlcoating lately as I gear up to start painting a gundam. My wife suggested I try out duochrome pigment (also some glitter) and after some exciting preliminary testing last night with her no-brand alixpress nail polish pigments, I went out and got some finer pigment powder; what I was trying last night had glitter in it which was cool but I think it had to go through the airbrush sideways and ended up kinda spattering all over my paint booth :downs: I bought some Jacquard PearlEx which seems to be suitably fine enough for airbrush use





It's very hard to see the effect in a photo but it's slightly more blue or green depending on how many layers of paint you apply, and what angle you're looking at it from. Once I've had some time to play with it I'll post some recipes.

That's cool I might have to look into that. I picked up some Liquitex Iridescent Medium and sprayed it diluted as a coat on top and it's basically just medium with glitter in it. Don't know if I'll have much use for it but maybe I'll play around mixing it with some inks because apparently paint just covers the mica flakes and kills the iridescence.

Mirthless
Mar 27, 2011

by the sex ghost

Eej posted:

That's cool I might have to look into that. I picked up some Liquitex Iridescent Medium and sprayed it diluted as a coat on top and it's basically just medium with glitter in it. Don't know if I'll have much use for it but maybe I'll play around mixing it with some inks because apparently paint just covers the mica flakes and kills the iridescence.

My approach has been pigment + gloss medium at about a 40/60 split so far, thinned with reducer until it can spray cleanly. I'll post some better results/spoons/etc tomorrow when I have a chance to play with it more. (edit: it seems to vary a LOT based on the pigment how much medium i'm using fwiw)

Transparent paint should be fine for coloring iridescent medium, at least- try Golden high-flow acrylic, their transparent line is designed to work with their iridescent medium

Another thing you can do is spray down a layer of the iridescent medium and then spray ink over top of the medium when it dries, you can get a really descent metallic color that way

Mirthless fucked around with this message at 14:51 on Dec 18, 2020

Eej
Jun 17, 2007

HEAVYARMS
I've been spraying ink on top of Vallejo Metallic Colour for that effect but maybe Iridiescent Medium base would work better and I can save this apparently backordered and rare metallic paint for non tinted metallic things.

Count Thrashula
Jun 1, 2003

Death is nothing compared to vindication.
Buglord
Finally finished the last Ork of my team, Varag Ghoul-Chewer. This is such a fun sculpt, but I definitely went overboard with the armor highlighting. I was painting in a dim room and didn't realize how much I'd put on til I was under a brighter light. Whoops. Other than that I'm pretty happy with it.





I'll get a full team picture tomorrow when I finish the base.

Furism
Feb 21, 2006

Live long and headbang
Asset Drop is going out of business :(

Skarsnik
Oct 21, 2008

I...AM...RUUUDE!




Snazzdakka Boomwagon Incoming:









and bonus shot of the inside you cant even see but was fun to paint



Been picking at this since early last year, the 2nd lockdown here finally got it finished.

Not particularly neat, very basic highlighting but I think it comes together well

Sab669
Sep 24, 2009

Skarsnik posted:

Snazzdakka Boomwagon Incoming:









and bonus shot of the inside you cant even see but was fun to paint



Been picking at this since early last year, the 2nd lockdown here finally got it finished.

Not particularly neat, very basic highlighting but I think it comes together well

Owns so hard.

I had so much fun painting my Shokkjump Dragsta, I really need to buy the other vehicle kits. Don't even collect Orks, I just love the max crazy cars.

AndyElusive
Jan 7, 2007

Skarsnik posted:

Snazzdakka Boomwagon Incoming:

Shut the front door, this is amazing.

Fyrbrand
Dec 30, 2002

Grimey Drawer

Skarsnik posted:

Snazzdakka Boomwagon Incoming:

I always love your stuff man, and this is no exception. :hellyeah:

AndyElusive
Jan 7, 2007

Communist Walrus posted:

Here's the follow-up. I tried putting one of the arrow symbols on a test pauldron and quickly discovered the ink on the decal sheet is translucent rather than opaque. The result is this:


What was supposed to be red (same color as the design around the edges) turned into purple when placed on the turquoise base color. Turns out I should've bought the white decal sheet rather than the clear one.

Laser. Not sure if there's an appreciable difference between the two for something like this, but laser is all I have access to.

Oh hey I missed this. Well that's a shame. Are you planning on getting white decal sheets? If so, is there a particular brand you're looking at?

I'm trying to see if I can snag a cheap ink jet through FB Marketplace and even though you use laser, I might try to copy your method.

Skarsnik
Oct 21, 2008

I...AM...RUUUDE!




Thank you all :tipshat:

I'll attempt to post something more than once every year. Possibly

Cthulu Carl
Apr 16, 2006

Furism posted:

Asset Drop is going out of business :(



Yeah, hopefully they're able to work something out and come back. The only thing that kept me from getting more than a couple boxes from them was I ran out of places to stash paints even before I subscribed.

FeculentWizardTits
Aug 31, 2001

AndyElusive posted:

Oh hey I missed this. Well that's a shame. Are you planning on getting white decal sheets? If so, is there a particular brand you're looking at?

I'm trying to see if I can snag a cheap ink jet through FB Marketplace and even though you use laser, I might try to copy your method.

The more I thought about picking up the white decal sheets, the worse of an idea it sounded like. It'd work, but then I'd be left with an annoying white outline around everything that I'd have to address somehow. With some of the decals I'm making (particularly the chapter insignia), it'd be an immense amount of effort to correct by hand on every model.

As luck would have it, someone mentioned this place...
https://www.bedlamcreations.com/
...for custom transfer sheets. They have some fancy pants printer that can create opaque decals on clear sheets, so I'm going to go with that. An 8x13 sheet should cover all the decals I'll ever need for this project.

Bucnasti
Aug 14, 2012

I'll Fetch My Sarcasm Robes

Communist Walrus posted:

The more I thought about picking up the white decal sheets, the worse of an idea it sounded like. It'd work, but then I'd be left with an annoying white outline around everything that I'd have to address somehow. With some of the decals I'm making (particularly the chapter insignia), it'd be an immense amount of effort to correct by hand on every model.

As luck would have it, someone mentioned this place...
https://www.bedlamcreations.com/
...for custom transfer sheets. They have some fancy pants printer that can create opaque decals on clear sheets, so I'm going to go with that. An 8x13 sheet should cover all the decals I'll ever need for this project.

If you get a sheet, even if you don't need the whole sheet to complete your project, fill the sheet. Use the extra space for any random decal you think you might need someday/ You can fit a truly huge number of decals on a 8x13 sheet.

Thoogsby
Nov 18, 2006

Very strong. Everyone likes me.

The Sheriff Jake posted:

Looks great, what did you use for that slime on the base?

My friend made it but pretty sure its reg green paint mixed with mod podge that he let dry then did a wash over it. Video is here if you want to see how he did it https://www.youtube.com/watch?v=W5HgjrrmsF8

Count Thrashula
Jun 1, 2003

Death is nothing compared to vindication.
Buglord
At long last, my slow rear end is done painting the Orkland Raiderz



Next up is my Necromantic team, the Fearadelphia Flayers...

Rye Bread
Nov 8, 2005
:razz:
This is the very first miniature I've ever painted, and I'd like to get help, criticism, etc, on how to improve my technique and proceed in the future. I know I have to work a bit better on sprue removal, and cleaning it up before paint. This was more of a test. I really liked the Silver Skulls pics on pages 122-123 in the 9th edition SM Codex, so I'm aiming to get to that at some point in the future. I'm practicing on the Start Collecting Vanguard minis before my Indomitus box arrives.

I currently have the paints in the pic below. I first bought the contrast ones after seeing a couple articles on them (and was going to go Ultramarines first), but then I read here they're not great for marines.

I did a few small sprays of the primer, and then did a couple of "thin" coats of the Vallejo gunmetal. Did I use the wrong primer? Did I thin the paints too much, or not enough? The texture is pretty rough. I know I missed a few spots. Sorry for the lovely pics. I'm working on the lighting situation. I'll be investing in a larger paint kit and an airbrush soon as well.

Roast away :ohdear:




tangy yet delightful
Sep 13, 2005



Was the texture rough after the primer but before you applied the other paints?

Given that it's winter for most of the world were you perhaps spraying in too cold of weather outside?

But I also noticed your spray primer says it's sandable which makes me think that regardless of temp it would have been adding texture to your minis and if that's the case you need to get primer that doesn't by default add texture. I don't have any experience with Vallejo gunmetal but I've never thinned a metallic paint and had the end result be a rough texture which makes me think it was your primer at fault here.

Rye Bread
Nov 8, 2005
:razz:

tangy yet delightful posted:

Was the texture rough after the primer but before you applied the other paints?

Given that it's winter for most of the world were you perhaps spraying in too cold of weather outside?

But I also noticed your spray primer says it's sandable which makes me think that regardless of temp it would have been adding texture to your minis and if that's the case you need to get primer that doesn't by default add texture. I don't have any experience with Vallejo gunmetal but I've never thinned a metallic paint and had the end result be a rough texture which makes me think it was your primer at fault here.

Yeah, it was a bit rough after the primer. I'll grab something else over the weekend and try again.

I'm in NE Pennsylvania, so it is pretty drat cold. I sprayed in my garage, which is probably around 60 in there. I made sure to keep the can and mini up in the house, and then ran down really quick, sprayed, and ran back up.

Eej
Jun 17, 2007

HEAVYARMS
The primer you're using is automotive primer for enamel and lacquer paints which is probably why it's so thick. You'll want the Rust-o-leum that says Bonds to Plastic iirc if you wanna use that brand.

Rye Bread
Nov 8, 2005
:razz:

Eej posted:

The primer you're using is automotive primer for enamel and lacquer paints which is probably why it's so thick. You'll want the Rust-o-leum that says Bonds to Plastic iirc if you wanna use that brand.

Got it. Thanks!

Eej
Jun 17, 2007

HEAVYARMS
A quick google suggests you want to look for something like this

Big Willy Style
Feb 11, 2007

How many Astartes do you know that roll like this?

Eej posted:

A quick google suggests you want to look for something like this



Yeah I use rustoleum 2x it's real good

Aniodia
Feb 23, 2016

Literally who?

Eej posted:

A quick google suggests you want to look for something like this



Seconded, with the caveat that you want to make sure it's specifically primer, NOT "Paint + Primer".


So from here, you kinda have two options: 1) leave that mini as-is, keep it as a learning experiment, and maybe even use it to test the rest of the color scheme, or 2) toss that boy into some dollar store LA's Totally Awesome, strip it, and try again.

Either way, when you go to prime your other guys, don't blast them down with paint to the point where they're dripping wet. In fact, with most primer you want to have as light a touch as you can, so you don't clog details. And don't think you need to cover the whole mini in one go either, which tends to also lead to the same issue of overpriming.

As someone who's also in the Northeast US, and especially given the wonderful dumping of snow yesterday, I would recommend actually checking the humidity of the air, rather than the temperature, when you go out to prime. IIRC it was Miniac who did some video about priming in negative degrees Fahrenheit, and yeah, while you do want to keep things warmer than that (and 60 is pretty warm comparatively), humidity is also a big factor. If the air is too dry, it will cause the primer to dry before it hits the mini and give you that grainy look, which you don't really want most times. So yeah, jam a humidifier in the garage long enough for it to do its thing before jamming out there and spraying.

Rye Bread
Nov 8, 2005
:razz:

Aniodia posted:

Seconded, with the caveat that you want to make sure it's specifically primer, NOT "Paint + Primer".


So from here, you kinda have two options: 1) leave that mini as-is, keep it as a learning experiment, and maybe even use it to test the rest of the color scheme, or 2) toss that boy into some dollar store LA's Totally Awesome, strip it, and try again.

Either way, when you go to prime your other guys, don't blast them down with paint to the point where they're dripping wet. In fact, with most primer you want to have as light a touch as you can, so you don't clog details. And don't think you need to cover the whole mini in one go either, which tends to also lead to the same issue of overpriming.

As someone who's also in the Northeast US, and especially given the wonderful dumping of snow yesterday, I would recommend actually checking the humidity of the air, rather than the temperature, when you go out to prime. IIRC it was Miniac who did some video about priming in negative degrees Fahrenheit, and yeah, while you do want to keep things warmer than that (and 60 is pretty warm comparatively), humidity is also a big factor. If the air is too dry, it will cause the primer to dry before it hits the mini and give you that grainy look, which you don't really want most times. So yeah, jam a humidifier in the garage long enough for it to do its thing before jamming out there and spraying.

I’ll probably use it to see how bad I am at the fine detail stuff, haha.

I did do it in short bursts at arms length. I’ll practice on the leftover plastic from the sprue.

I run a dehumidifier in my garage (which is also my basement) year round. It was at 40% down there when I sprayed. Too dry? Maybe I’ll turn it off, and run a heater down there.

Grizzled Patriarch
Mar 27, 2014

These dentures won't stop me from tearing out jugulars in Thunderdome.



Weirdly, there *are* good sandable automotive primers out there - Duplicolor makes a great one that is probably the smoothest rattlecan primer I've ever used, and almost impossible to clog up details with.

I switched when I picked up an airbrush but before that I used the Duplicolor stuff for years with no issues.

PoptartsNinja
May 9, 2008

He is still almost definitely not a spy


Soiled Meat
Never strip your first mini. Keep it around and look at it every so often to remind yourself that you're improving.

BoneMonkey
Jul 25, 2008

I am happy for you.

PoptartsNinja posted:

Never strip your first mini. Keep it around and look at it every so often to remind yourself that you're improving.

This is the hands down the best advice in any artistic pursuit!

FeculentWizardTits
Aug 31, 2001

PoptartsNinja posted:

Never strip your first mini. Keep it around and look at it every so often to remind yourself that you're improving.

Thirding this, especially if your first models came in a squad. Put them all next to each other in order painted and you'll be able to see a miniature timeline of how you improved as you made your way through the box.

inscrutable horse
May 20, 2010

Parsing sage, rotating time



Also, as people in this thread pointed out to me when I started, distance from spray-can to model also plays a big role. I've primed models in perfect conditions that still came out with a cruddy texture, because I was spraying from too far away.

Count Thrashula
Jun 1, 2003

Death is nothing compared to vindication.
Buglord
Can you add contrast medium to a normal paint to make it behave more like contrast paint? I have a mini that would do well with contrast, but I have specific colors I want to use that aren't in the contrast line.

Geisladisk
Sep 15, 2007

You probably also need to add quite a bit of flow improver if you want to mix normal acrylic paint to contrast medium. The easiest way to make ersatz contrast paint is to simply add inks to contrast medium, if you have those.

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HopperUK
Apr 29, 2007

Why would an ambulance be leaving the hospital?
First ever mini! Lots of newbie mistakes. Didn't prime properly, haven't finished the base. Rushed a bit, shaky hands, bad eyesight, etc. Still it was loads of fun and I intend to keep going with the rest of these rat boys and get better as I go.

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